Journals of Australian Explorations - A C and F T Gregory
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16th August.
Our average course to-day was nearly east, occasionally crossing channels
coming from the south-east. Towards evening we found that the main
channel, which it had been our intention to have followed, had escaped
our observation to the southward, and we were only on a comparatively
small tributary coming from a rugged range of hills to the eastward. Our
object for the present not being to push too far into the interior, this
tributary was followed until it broke up into numerous small valleys, in
one of which water was obtained by digging three feet in the sand,
amongst tolerable feed, the country having much improved in the course of
the day. Camp 60.
Latitude 21 degrees 34 minutes.
ROCKY RANGES.
17th August.
Soon after starting this morning we came upon a camp of natives, but we
could not prevail upon any of them to stop and hold parley with us. Four
hours' travelling over rather rocky ground led us well into the range,
which we found to consist of granite, capped with metamorphic sandstones
and broken up by dykes of variegated jasper. In a deep ravine at the foot
of a cliff we found a small pool of beautiful clear spring water, which
was very acceptable, as the sun had now acquired considerable power, and
the grasses were beginning to get very dry food for our horses. During
the halt at this spring Mr. Harding and myself ascended the highest part
of the range, which was found to be 500 or 600 feet above the plain. From
this elevation I was enabled to select our onward route, and obtain
bearings to several useful summits for triangulation--a few hills to the
south-south-east being visible at the distance of sixty or seventy miles,
which no doubt form part of the continuation of the Hamersley Range.
Resuming an east course, the culminating point of the range was soon
passed, when we descended to the eastward down some deep and remarkably
picturesque rocky glens, in which were found several springs and pools of
water, leading down to a fine grassy flat, in which were growing some
fine large flooded-gum trees. Camp 61.
18th August (Sunday).
Found our latitude 21 degrees 36 minutes 8 seconds; longitude 119 degrees
13 minutes east by account.
THE STRELLEY RIVER.
19th August.
The country being very hilly, it was found best to follow down the stream
upon which we had encamped, although it trended to the north of east. In
a few miles the valley opened out with fine pools of permanent water,
covered with numerous flights of ducks, and at eight miles it joined a
wide valley from the south, down which flowed a river, divided into
several channels, containing many fine pools from 50 to 200 yards wide,
which were still running gently from one to another. The banks, although
well grassed, were very rocky, rendering travelling excessively fatiguing
to our heavily-loaded pack-horses, several of them being bruised and
strained while jumping from rock to rock, the clefts being too deep and
narrow for them to walk between, and the ranges bordering the valley were
too steep to admit of our leaving the river, which we were compelled to
follow down to latitude 21 degrees 26 minutes 52 seconds. Camp 62.
20th August.
The river, which had been named the Strelley, continued to hold a
northerly course; we therefore availed ourselves of a smoother valley
coming in from the east to resume our old course. At nine miles we met
with a stream 100 yards wide coming from the south-east, evidently
tributary to the Strelley, and taking its rise in elevated granite ranges
with black volcanic ridges protruding through them, but not to any
considerable height above the general level of the country. After a few
hours' scramble over these ridges we came upon a small stream trending
east, containing several springs, surrounded by high grass and flags,
gradually leading us by sunset into a deep pass, walled in by cliffs and
bluffs from 100 to 300 feet high; the stream, having joined several
larger ones from the southward, now occupying nearly the whole width of
the valley. We encamped in one of the wildest and most romantic-looking
spots to be found in this part of Australia, to which we gave the name of
Glen Herring, from a fish bearing a resemblance to a herring being found
in the stream. Camp 63.
Latitude 21 degrees 20 minutes 35 seconds.
THE SHAW RIVER. NORTON PLAINS.
21st August.
With some difficulty we wended our way down the intricate windings of the
glen for six miles in a north-east direction, when it opened out into
grassy flats, turning to the northward. Leaving it at this point, a mile
east brought us to the bank of a fine open river-bed 200 yards wide, down
which a little water was still flowing, the country on its banks becoming
much more promising and grass plentiful. This river I named the Shaw, and
some beautiful grassy plains through which it came for twenty or thirty
miles to the southward Norton Plains, after the talented Secretary of the
Royal Geographical Society. In the afternoon a large tributary from the
south-east was followed up for some miles, when, turning to the south, we
quitted it to follow an open valley leading east towards a bold granite
and schistose range, under which we encamped late without finding water.
Camp 64.
Latitude 21 degrees 20 minutes.
22nd August.
As we did not find water for some distance to the eastward under the foot
of the hills, we turned to the south-east, quickly emerging from the
hills upon the Norton Plains, and at two miles came upon the stream
quitted last evening, to which the name of Emu Creek had been given. It
had altered its course, and was again coming from the east, and contained
several fine springs. This creek was followed up for the rest of the day
through a rather indifferent country, and, towards nightfall, led us into
a deep rocky ravine, in which we encamped, a small supply of water being
obtained from holes in the rocks. Camp 65.
Latitude 21 degrees 28 minutes.
23rd August.
As we advanced, the ravine divided into many branches coming from an
elevated tableland to the southward; we therefore again resumed an
easterly course for five or six miles, over rugged hills, and descended
by a gully trending north-east, which led us in a few miles into open
plains. Skirting the northern foot of the range until after dark, we
encamped on a small watercourse, in which we obtained water by digging
under some granite rocks. Camp 66.
Latitude 21 degrees 23 minutes 30 seconds.
24th August.
The horses having suffered much amongst the rocks during the last few
days, I determined to follow the southern edge of the plain until a
stream could be met with to lead us to the south-east. A few miles
brought us to a small watercourse running gently from some springs in the
plain, which, contrary to our expectations, ran into the ranges to the
south-east instead of coming out of them. As here there was plenty of
green grass and water, and the horses were not looking well, we encamped
early in the entrance of the gorge. Camp 67.
Latitude 21 degrees 20 minutes 13 seconds.
25th August (Sunday).
Longitude by observation 120 degrees 17 minutes; variation 30 minutes
east.
26th August.
The stream we were upon led us about five miles south-east through the
hills, and then joined a river coming from the southward, 100 yards wide,
which was followed down on an average course of east-north-east to
latitude 21 degrees 18 minutes; reeds and rank grass lining its banks in
many parts, while in others granite boulders and banks of drift-sand
offered considerable impediments to travelling. Camp 68.
DEGREY RIVER.
27th August.
The river took us on a northerly course nine or ten miles, receiving many
large tributaries, several of them still running slightly, forming
altogether a stream of some importance, which, on account of the large
extent of pastoral and agricultural lands afterwards found on its banks
lower down, and its many fine tributaries, I named the DeGrey, in honour
of the noble lord who took a lively interest in promoting the objects of
the expedition. As the object at present in view was to push to the
south-east, we left this promising river and resumed an east-south-east
course for five or six miles into a hilly country, and encamped in a
gully with rather scanty feed, a little water being obtained by digging.
Camp 69.
28th August.
We soon became involved in deep ravines, which led up into high
tableland, the summit of which was no sooner attained than we had again
to descend equally precipitous gullies to the eastward, the horses
sliding down amongst the loose rocks and stones with a velocity that
threatened immediate destruction; they all, however, arrived safe at the
bottom, although in so exhausted a state that two of them had very
shortly after to be left behind, while we pushed on with the rest in
search of water and feed, which was not met with until late in the day.
After a short rest I sent Messrs. Brown and Brockman back for the two
beaten horses, while I moved the party on a mile further to a fine spring
in a grassy flat, where we encamped. Camp 70.
Latitude 21 degrees 9 minutes 3 seconds.
EXTENSIVE GRASSY PLAINS.
29th August.
The two horses left yesterday were brought into camp early in the day,
and as they were too weak to carry their loads, they were placed on our
saddle-horses, one of the party by turns having to walk. As the season
was rapidly advancing, we could not venture to incur any delay, much as
the horses required rest, and accordingly resumed an east course late in
the day. At five miles came upon a sandy stream-bed fifty yards wide,
trending to the north-east, beyond which the country opened out into an
extensive plain of white waving grass--to the north uninterrupted by a
single elevation, while to the east and south, at eight or ten miles
distant, rose ranges of granite hills, capped with horizontal sandstones.
It was not until some time after dark that we arrived near the opposite
edge of the plain, when we came upon a river 200 yards wide, running to
the northward. The long drought had reduced it to a few shallow pools,
running from one to the other through the deep sand in the bed;
magnificent cajeput-trees lined the banks, and grass was in abundance.
Camp 71.
OAKOVER RIVER.
30th August.
We did not start till late, as Mr. Brown had to go back some little
distance for his horse, which had been again left behind overnight,
knocked up. As it would have been useless, in the present condition of
our horses, to attempt at once to enter the ranges to the east, we
determined to follow up the river for a few days to the south-south-east
and by so doing secure feed and water, and give the poor animals a chance
of recovering their strength; we therefore followed the river up for
seven or eight miles, through fine open forest country, and encamped near
a deep pool, in which were caught ten or twelve dozen of small trout,
which, with cockatoos and ducks, afforded an important addition to our
ration of only seven ounces of meat. This river was named the Oakover.
Camp 72.
31st August.
For nearly ten miles the river continued to lead us to the eastward of
south; it then divided, the main channel coming from the south-west; we,
however, followed the eastern branch until quite satisfied that it
contained no water, and then fell back to the westward, striking the
river near some cliffs, at the foot of which water was plentiful.
Although only 1 p.m., I determined to halt for the remainder of the day,
as it was too late to make an attempt to enter the hills without giving
the horses the advantage of some hours' feed and rest. It also afforded
me leisure to make astronomical observations and work up the plans of our
route. A set of lunar distances, very carefully taken, placed the camp in
longitude 121 degrees 3 minutes 30 seconds east, while that by account,
carried on by triangulation and dead-reckoning from the Sherlock, placed
us four and a half miles more to the westward; the latitude being 21
degrees 23 minutes 43 seconds. Camp 73.
1st September (Sunday).
Read prayers.
2nd September.
A march of three hours across the plains to the eastward brought us to
the foot of the range, which we entered by a tolerably easy pass, and
soon came upon a pool of water in a tributary to the Oakover, the mouth
of which had been passed on our ascent of that river. Here we halted for
two hours, and then resumed our route through steep and rocky hills,
containing numerous fine springs. It was not until 7 p.m. that we finally
got through the ranges, and emerged upon open sandy plains of vast
extent, no object being observable from north-north-east round to
south-south-east except low ridges of red drift-sand, in many parts
nearly bare of vegetation. A large party of natives were encamped upon
the watercourse down which we descended to the plain. Not wishing to
alarm them, we passed the waterholes from which they were supplied, and
proceeded a mile farther, but had in consequence to camp without water,
although amongst abundance of grass. Camp 74.
Latitude 21 degrees 21 minutes 30 seconds.
NATIVE HEAD-DRESS. ENTER THE SANDY DESERT.
3rd September.
This morning we returned to the native encampment for water, and found
that they had already deserted it, leaving many of their things
behind--amongst others, a very singular head-dress, shaped like a helmet.
It consisted of a circular band, made of twisted grass, the size of the
head, into which were stuck ten or twelve upright twigs, brought together
into a point two feet high, which was woven like an open basket, with
yarn made of opossum fur; the whole no doubt being considered highly
ornamental by the wearers, but of not the least service as an article of
protection for the head, either from the sun or in war. Having watered
the horses, we entered the sand-plain, travelling between the ridges,
which ran in straight lines parallel to each other at the distance of
several hundred yards apart, the sand being thrown by the south-east
gales into acute ridges thirty to sixty feet high, their direction being
almost invariably north 109 degrees east. Travelling to 2.15 p.m., we got
over about eighteen miles, the valleys yielding little else but triodia,
with occasional patches of stunted gum forest, in which was found a
little good grass, on which were feeding flights of pigeons and a variety
of parrot new to us, but which I believe to be the golden-backed parakeet
(Psephotus chrysopterygius) of Gould. As no water could be found, and
many of the horses gave signs of being greatly distressed, no change
being observable in the country for many miles ahead, a few very distant
ranges being the only objects visible, we were obliged to have recourse
to the only safe expedient of falling back and forming a depot. Resting
to 5.10, we commenced a retreat until 7.20, having been obliged to
abandon a horse of Mr. Brown's, quite exhausted. Camp 75.
4th September.
At 6.30 a.m. resumed our retreat, and by noon arrived at the waterhole of
the 2nd, having left two more horses behind, which, however, Mr. Brown
and myself carried out water to in the course of the evening and drove
them in during the night.
5th September.
Leaving the party to rest, I walked ten or twelve miles round to the
south-south-eastward, along the foot of the range, in search of water,
and to ascertain if a better line of country could be found in that
direction, but it continued to maintain the same arid appearance, and I
only came on one pool in a gully four miles from the camp. Depot.
6th September.
Leaving Mr. Turner and four of the party in depot, with instructions to
remain there three days, and then fall back upon the Oakover, where there
was much better feed, I started with Messrs. Brown and Harding, taking
six of the strongest horses, sixteen days' rations and six gallons of
water, and steered south-south-east along the ranges for six or eight
miles, looking for some stream-bed that might lead us through the plains,
but was disappointed to find that they were all lost in the first mile
after leaving the hills, and as crossing the numerous ridges of sand
proved very fatiguing to the horses, we determined once more to attempt
to strike to the eastward between the ridges, which we did for fifteen
miles, when our horses again showed signs of failing us, which left us
the only alternative of either pushing on at all hazards to a distant
range that was now just visible to the eastward, where, from the numerous
native fires and general depression of the country, there was every
reason to think a large river would be found to exist, or to make for
some deep rocky gorges in the granite hills ten miles to the south, in
which there was every prospect of finding water. In the former case the
travelling would be smoothest, but the distance so great that, in the
event of our failing to obtain water, we probably should not succeed in
bringing back one of our horses; while, in the latter, we should have to
climb over the sand ridges, which we had already found so fatiguing; this
course, however, involved the least amount of risk, and we accordingly
struck south four miles, and halted for the night. Camp 76.
REPULSED FOR WANT OF WATER. INTENSE HEAT.
7th September.
The horses did not look much refreshed by the night's rest; we, however,
divided three gallons of water amongst them, and started off early, in
the hope of reaching the ranges by noon; but we had not gone three miles
when one of the pack-horses, that was carrying less than forty pounds
weight, began to fail, and the load was placed upon my saddle-horse; it
did not, however, enable him to get on more than a couple of miles
further, when we were compelled to abandon him, leaving him under the
shade of the only tree we could find, in the hope that we might bring
back water to his relief. Finding that it would be many hours before the
horses could be got on to the hills, I started ahead on foot, leaving
Messrs. Brown and Harding to come on gently, while I was to make a signal
by fires if successful in finding water. Two hours' heavy toil through
the sand, under a broiling sun, brought me to the ranges, where I
continued to hunt up one ravine after another until 5.0 p.m. without
success. Twelve hours' almost incessant walking, on a scanty breakfast,
and without water, with the thermometer over 100 degrees of Fahrenheit,
began to tell upon me rather severely; so much so that, by the time I had
tracked up my companions (who had reached the hills by 1.0 p.m., and were
anxiously waiting for me), it was as much as I could do to carry my rifle
and accoutrements. The horses were looking truly wretched, and I was
convinced that the only chance of saving them, if water was not found,
would be by abandoning our pack-saddles, provisions, and everything we
could possibly spare, and try and recover them afterwards if practicable;
we therefore encamped for the night on the last plot of grass we could
find, and proceeded to make arrangements for an early start in the
morning. There was still remaining a few pints of water in the kegs,
having been very sparing in the use of it; this enabled us to have a
little tea and make a small quantity of damper, of which we all stood in
much need. Camp 77.
8th September.
At 4.0 a.m. we were again up. Having disposed of our equipment and
provisions, except our riding-saddles, instruments, and firearms, by
suspending them in the branches of a large tree, we divided a pint of
water for our breakfast, and by the first peep of dawn were driving our
famished horses before us at their best speed toward the depot, which was
now thirty-two miles distant. For the first eight miles they went on
pretty well, but the moment the sun began to have power they flagged
greatly, and it was not long before we were obliged to relinquish another
horse quite unable to proceed. By 9.0 a.m. I found that my previous day's
march, and the small allowance of food I had taken, was beginning to have
its effects upon me, and that it was probable I could not reach the depot
until next morning, by which time the party left there were to fall back
to the Oakover; I therefore directed Mr. Brown, who was somewhat fresher
than myself, to push on for the camp and to bring out fresh horses with
water, while Mr. Harding and myself would do our best to bring on any
straggling horses that could not keep up with him. By dark we had
succeeded in reaching to within nine miles of the depot, finding
unmistakable evidence towards evening of the condition to which the
horses taken on by Mr. Brown were reduced, by the saddles, guns, hobbles,
and even bridles, scattered along the line of march, which had been taken
off to enable them to go on a few miles further.
EFFECTS OF WANT OF WATER.
9th September.
At dawn Mr. Harding and myself got up from our beds of sand stiff and
giddy, but much refreshed by the cold night air. In four or five miles we
met Mr. Brown with fresh horses and a supply of water, having succeeded
in reaching the depot at 8 p.m. the night before, with only one horse. We
were now enabled to proceed with the tracking up of the horses left
overnight, which, after resting some hours, had commenced to ramble in
search of water; Mr. Brown returning on our route and recovering the
saddles and firearms left the previous evening, the stores abandoned the
day before being too far off to attempt their recovery. By 8.30 p.m. we
had all returned to the depot, having tracked up the three missing
horses, the two left at the furthest point being too distant to carry
relief to without incurring the risk of further loss. I cannot omit to
remark the singular effects of excessive thirst upon the eyes of the
horses; they absolutely sunk into their heads until there was a hollow of
sufficient depth to entirely bury the thumb in, and there was an
appearance as though the whole of the head had shrunk with them,
producing a very unpleasant and ghastly expression. Depot camp.
10th September.
We were only able to move the camp a mile to another waterhole, for the
sake of a little better feed. Bivouac.
COMMENCE RETURN JOURNEY.
11th September.
On taking into consideration the reduced number and strength of our
horses, it was quite evident that we had but little prospect of being
able to cross the tract of dry sandy country that had already occasioned
us so much loss and trouble; yet there were many reasons to stimulate us
to make the attempt. Not only had we now attained to within a very few
miles of the longitude in which, from various geographical data, there
are just grounds for believing that a large river may be found to exist,
draining Central Australia, but the character of the country appeared
strongly to indicate the vicinity of such a feature; added to which, the
gradual decline in the elevation of the country, notwithstanding our
increasing distance from the coast, tended towards the same conclusion.
Nor should we omit the strong evidences that the remarkable ridges of
drift-sand which encumbered the plains must in the first instance, have
been brought from the interior by water, and then have been blown by the
strong prevailing south-east winds across the country in a direction at
least 50 degrees from that which they originally came from; this, with
the clean water-worn appearance of the sand, the bold outlines of the
hills seen to the far east, and the number of native fires observed in
the same direction, must all tend to support the hypothesis that the
western half of Australia is probably drained by a large river in about
this meridian. I could not, therefore, help regretting more than ever
that we should be driven back at such an interesting spot; but mature
reflection convinced me that any further attempt with our present means,
at this period of the year, was almost certain to be attended with the
most disastrous results; I therefore decided upon adopting the only other
useful course open to us--that of examining down to the sea the rivers
already discovered. With this in view, we to-day fell back five or six
miles across the ranges to a tributary to the Oakover, called the Davis,
when one of the horses became so crippled by a strain in the loins that
we were obliged to halt to give him a chance of recovery, affording me
leisure to verify our position by observing another set of lunar
distances, which I found to agree well with those formerly taken ten
miles to the westward. Camp 78.
DOWN THE OAKOVER RIVER.
12th September.
We commenced the descent of the Davis, having much difficulty in getting
along the sick horse, as it required the united strength of the party to
lift him on his legs every time he fell, which he at last did so
frequently that I ordered him to be shot, as it was hopeless to attempt
to bring him on, and if left, he must have died of starvation. By 2.0
p.m. we reached the junction of the stream we were upon with the Oakover,
and halted two miles south of Camp 72; most of the party being now
dismounted, shoe-leather was beginning to get very scarce with us. Camp
79.