Journals of Australian Explorations - A C and F T Gregory
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3rd March.
At 5.30 a.m. started and followed the creek on a general course
south-west. There was a very irregular channel sometimes ten yards wide
and very shallow, and then expanding into pools fifty yards wide. The
sandy plain encroached much on the grassy flats, and reduced the winter
course of the creek to half a mile in breadth. At 8.0 the course was
changed to south, and at 10.15 camped at a swamp, which was nearly dry,
and covered with beautiful grass. The country differed in character from
that seen yesterday, there being a few scattered white-gum trees and
patches of tall acacia. Salsola and salicornia are also very abundant,
and show the saline nature of the soil.
Latitude by Canopus and Pollux 20 degrees 2 minutes 10 seconds.
SALT LAKES.
4th March.
Left the camp at 5.50 a.m., and steered south-west over a very level
country, with shallow hollows filled with a dense growth of acacia, and
at 7.30 struck the creek with a sandy channel and narrow flats, covered
with salsola and salicornia. The pools were very shallow, and gradually
became salt, and at 10.15 it spread into the dry bed of a salt lake more
than a mile in diameter. This was connected by a broad channel with a
pool of salt-water in it, with a second dry salt lake eight miles in
diameter. As there was little prospect of water ahead and the day far
advanced, we returned to one of the brackish pools and encamped. The
country passed was of a worthless character, and so much impregnated with
salt that the surface of the ground is often covered with a thin crust of
salt.
Latitude by e Argus 20 degrees 10 minutes 40 seconds.
5th March.
Started from the camp at 5.45 a.m., and steered south-south-east through
the acacia wood to the lake, and then south by east across the dry bed of
the lake towards a break in the trees on the southern side. Here we found
a creek joining the lake from the south-west, in which there were some
shallow pools. We then steered east, to intersect any channel by which
the waters of the lake might flow to the south or south-east, and passing
through a wood of acacia entered the sandy desert. As some low rocky
hills were visible to the east we steered for them. At 2.10 halted half a
mile from the hills, and then ascended them on foot. They were very
barren and rocky, scarcely eighty feet above the plain, formed of
sandstone, the strata horizontal. From the summit of the hill nothing was
visible but one unbounded waste of sandy ridges and low rocky hillocks,
which lay to the south-east of the hill. All was one impenetrable desert,
as the flat and sandy surface, which could absorb the waters of the
creek, was not likely to originate watercourses. Descending the hill,
which I named Mount Wilson, after the geologist attached to the
expedition, we returned towards the creek at the south end of the lake,
reaching it at 9.30.
6th March.
As the day was extremely hot and the horses required rest and food, we
remained at the camp. Ducks were numerous in some of the pools, but so
wild that only two were shot. The early part of the day was clear, with a
hot strong breeze varying from west to south-east. At 1 p.m. there was a
heavy thunder-squall from the south-east, which swept a cloud of salt and
sand from the dry surface of the lake. The squall was followed by a
slight shower.
Latitude by Canopus 20 degrees 16 minutes 22 seconds.
DRY BEDS OF SALT LAKES.
7th March.
As I had frequently observed that in the dry channels of creeks
traversing very level country a heavy shower in the lower part of its
course often causes a strong current of water to rush up the stream-bed
and leave flood marks, which would mislead a person examining them in the
dry season, it seemed probable that this must be the case with the creek
entering the salt lake at its south-west angle, as it might be the outlet
of the lake when filled by Sturt's Creek flowing into it, though in
ordinary seasons the flow of water would be into the lake; accordingly I
decided on following the creek and ascertain its actual course. Leaving
the camp at 5.50 a.m., steered nearly south-west along the general course
of the creek till 7.30, when it turned to the north and entered the dry
bed of a lake. As the beds of the two lakes were lower than the channel
between them, the water during the last heavy rains had flooded both ways
from the central part of the channel. Having skirted the lake on the west
to intercept any watercourses which might enter or leave the lake on that
side, we came to a large shallow channel with pools of water--some fresh
and others salt--with broad margin of salicornia growing on the banks; at
11.0 camped at a small pool of fresh water. The soil of the country on
the bank of the creek is loose white sand with concretions of lime,
covered with a dense growth of tall acacia, with salsola and a little
grass in the open spaces.
TERMINATION OF STURT'S CREEK.
8th March.
Started at 6.5 a.m. and traced the creek into a salt lake to the west,
but this was also dry. After some search we found a creek joining on the
northern side and communicating with a large mud plain, partly overgrown
with salicornia, and with large shallow pools of muddy water two to three
inches deep. On the northern side the plain narrowed into a sandy creek
with shallow pools, the flow of the water being decidedly from the
northward. At 12.15 p.m. camped at a shallow pool, near which there was a
little grass, the country generally being sandy and only producing
triodia and acacia. Thus, after having followed Sturt's Creek for nearly
300 miles, we have been disappointed in our hope that it would lead to
some important outlet to the waters of the Australian interior; it has,
however, enabled us to penetrate far into the level tract of country
which may be termed the Great Australian Desert.
Latitude by Pollux and e Argus 20 degrees 4 minutes 5 seconds.
9th March.
Left our camp at 6.35 a.m., and followed the creek up for half an hour,
and then steered east to Sturt's Creek, which we reached at 9.5, the
country being level, sandy, and covered with triodia and acacia in small
patches; we then steered a southerly course down the creek till 11.0, and
camped at the large brackish pool.
COMMENCE RETURN TO DEPOT. HOT WINDS.
10th March.
We had observed that a creek appeared to join the salt lake to the
north-east angle. There yet remained a possibility that the waters of the
lake might find an outlet to the east and pass north of Mount Wilson; we
therefore steered east from the camp at 6.45 a.m. and passed close to the
south of a small salt lake (dry) three-quarters of a mile in diameter,
and then traversed a level sandy country thickly wooded with acacia and a
few white-gum trees. At 8.15 struck a small grassy watercourse with broad
shallow pools; this we followed down to the south-south-west to the large
salt lake, close to which it was joined by a small sandy creek coming
from the east. Having reached the bank of the lake at 10.0, steered south
along its shore till 11.15, when its shore trended to the
west-south-west, and there was a small well-defined bank without any
break to the point which had been the limit of our examination from the
southern part of the lake, and thus determined that there was no outlet
for the water to the eastward. As the whole country to the south was one
vast sandy desert, destitute of any indications of the existence of
water, it was clear that no useful results could arise from any attempt
to penetrate this inhospitable region, especially as the loss of any of
the horses might deprive the expedition of the means for carrying out the
explorations towards the Gulf of Carpentaria. I therefore determined on
commencing our retreat to the Victoria River while it was practicable, as
the rapid evaporation and increasing saltness of the water in this arid
and inhospitable region warned us that each day we delayed increased the
difficulty of the return, and it was possible that we were cut off from
any communication with the party at the depot by an impassable tract of
dry country, and might be compelled to maintain ourselves on the lower
part of the creek till the ensuing rainy season. Returned to the creek at
the north-east angle of the lake and encamped. The morning was cloudy
with a strong hot wind from the east and south-east; the night calm and
misty.
11th March.
At 6.10 a.m. left the camp and followed the creek to the
north-north-east, but it soon spread into a number of small gullies,
which drained a patch of clay land. At 7.0 steered north through a wood
of acacia growing on loose sandy soil. Entering the open sandy plain at
8.15, a few small white-gum trees were scattered over this part of the
plain, which was quite level, the loose sand being covered with triodia,
which partially concealed the glaring red colour of the ground. Observing
a low abrupt hill a little to the east of our course, deviated towards
it, and ascended it at 10.0. It was less than 100 feet above the plains,
and composed of the same sandstone which prevails over the whole of the
country south of the Victoria. The view was cheerless in the extreme.
From north 26 degrees east to north 166 degrees east, the country was a
level plain with small isolated or grouped hills of red sandstone, but
not forming any definite ranges; the even height and peculiar table
summits appear to indicate that they are only small remaining portions of
a sandstone tableland or plain nearly the whole of which has been
removed, the strata, however, had a dip to the east of one or two
degrees. The vegetation on this part of the country was reduced to a few
stunted gum-trees, hakea bushes, and triodia, the whole extremely barren
in appearance. The remaining portion of the horizon was one even straight
line; not a hill or break of any kind was visible, and, except the narrow
line of the creek, was barren and worthless in the extreme, the red soil
of the level portions of the surface being partially clothed with triodia
and a few small trees, or rather bushes, rendered the long straight
ridges of fiery-red drifting sand more conspicuous. The wind being
strong, we observed the smoke of several fires along the course of
Sturt's Creek, and also one near Mount Mueller, to the north-east,
indicating the existence of natives in that direction, and doubtless of
water in that locality, as it was a day's journey from the creek. Our
course was now north 340 degrees east, and on approaching the creek
passed through a patch of casuarina forest, which was remarkable, as they
are the only trees of this genus we had seen on the coast since landing
at the Victoria, though abundant in all other parts of Australia. At 1.35
p.m. reached Sturt's Creek and halted at our camp of the 2nd March; there
was a strong hot wind from the east during the day.
12th March.
Resumed our route at 5.50 a.m. and steered north 20 degrees east till
8.0, then 40 degrees and 60 degrees till 1.0 p.m., when we encamped at a
shallow pool of water near the creek, and about three miles above camp
48, as the route only traversed the level flats near the creek. Nothing
worthy of further notice was seen, the channel being split into small
hollows, some of which retained a little water. The grass was much dried
up and limited to the flat near the creek, the more remote portions being
covered with triodia. The day was hot and nearly calm, but at noon we
were benefited by a few passing clouds, and at 6.0 p.m. a dry
thunderstorm cooled the air from 100 degrees to 93 degrees, but the
temperature rose at 8.0 to 96 degrees.
13th March.
At 5.50 steered north 10 degrees east, crossing the creek several times,
and at 10.0 turned to the north-north-east and north-east, crossing the
sandstone hills, round which the creek turns at a right angle, and at
12.10 p.m. camped on the creek near our track of the 29th February.
Nearly all the pools of water had dried up, and the water at the camp had
become brackish; some of the pools, however, must be permanent, as there
were small fish in them. A great party of natives appeared to be
travelling up the creek, as fresh fires are constantly seen to the
north-east along its course. A cool breeze from the west to north-east
moderated the heat, the temperature at 2 p.m. 103 degrees; passing clouds
from the east in the afternoon.
FOLLOW UP STURT'S CREEK.
14th March.
Resumed our route and followed the creek upwards from 5.50 a.m. till 1.50
p.m., when we camped about three miles south-west of camp 45 at the first
pool before the atriplex flat. A short distance above the camp we crossed
a large sandy creek, which proved to be the cause of the change in the
character of Sturt's Creek below that point. As our route was at a
greater distance from the creek than in tracing it down, it gave a better
opportunity of ascertaining the nature of the country beyond the
influence of inundation; to the north-west a vast plain traversed by low
ridges of gravel and drift sand, clothed with a scanty growth of triodia
and a few hakea bushes, rose gradually from the creek, but on the
south-east a more abrupt sandstone slope terminated in a similar plain of
somewhat greater elevation, and showed that we were still within the
bounds of the desert. Moderate breeze from the north-west changing to
north-east; passing clouds; a slight shower at 11.0 p.m.
15th March.
Resumed our route at 5.50 a.m., steering north 40 degrees east, one hour
into the triodia plain, then north 60 degrees east till 9.20 a.m., when
we reached the first large pool in the creek, and rounding the bend
camped at one of the narrow pools above the sandstone ridges. The water
in the larger pools had sunk from six inches to a foot since we had
passed downwards, and almost all the pools were now dry. The morning
clear and cool, with clouds and light showers in the afternoon
accompanied by thunder.
16th March.
As there was no water in the creek for the next thirty-three miles, we
filled the water-bags and prepared for an early start; but unfortunately
the horses had strayed farther than usual, which delayed us till 7.0
a.m., when following nearly the outward route, passed close to camp 43,
the waterhole at which was dry, and at 1.0 p.m. halted under the shade of
a few acacia-trees during the heat of the day, and resumed our journey at
3.0 p.m., following the south-east side of the plain through which the
creek flows. The ground was stony and bad travelling, but as the moon was
clear and bright we succeeded in reaching the first pool of water at 8.30
p.m.; this was one mile above Camp 42, the water at which had dried up,
though four feet deep on the 24th February. The pool at which we now
camped appears to be permanent; it is 100 yards wide and 300 long, the
water three feet deep close to the bank. Ducks were numerous, and I shot
four in the morning. An easterly breeze continued through the day, and as
usual there were a few clouds towards sunset. Unfortunately, the dry
weather had warped the scale of the thermometer to such an extent that it
broke the tube.
DENISON PLAINS. WATER DRYING UP.
17th March.
We were again delayed by trifling circumstances, and did not leave the
camp until 7.40 a.m., but having nearly cleared the desert the weather
was comparatively cool. Steering an average course north-east, traversed
the wide grassy plains on the right bank of Sturt's Creek, to which the
name of Denison's Plains was given. At 2.0 p.m. camped at a small pool in
the polygonum flat, which was all that remained of the water which had
covered the flat to the extent of three-quarters of a mile in breadth,
and was running when we passed down last month. Our course this day
showed the great extent of the grassy plains to the north-west, as we did
not see the limit at any point in that direction. Cool breeze from east
with thin clouds all day.
18th March.
Left the camp at daylight and proceeded to Camp 40 on the outward route,
and halted for the remainder of the day to rest the horses, as a heavy
stage lay before us across the dry country. Large flocks of cockatoos
came to the pool at this camp, and we shot thirty-three, which was a very
welcome addition to our provisions. Strong easterly wind; passing clouds.
19th March.
Steered north 60 degrees east at 6.35 a.m., and followed up the course of
the creek, crossing the right bank at 9.0, when there was nothing but the
polygonum flat to mark its course; at 10.30 altered the course to nearly
east, passing a large sheet of brackish water, which appeared deep and
permanent at the lower end, but shallow at the upper part; at 11.20
encamped at a small pool of fresh water in a back channel, the creek
being brackish, and we were anxious to procure a supply of good water
before proceeding further, as the next three stages of the outward track
were now destitute of water. Strong easterly breeze; light clouds.
20th March.
At 5.55 am steered 110 degrees; at 6.20 struck a small creek with steep
banks; altered the course to 90 degrees, crossing two small watercourses
from the north with a little water in the deeper portions of their beds,
the general character of the country box flats and open grassy plains
near the creek. At 7.25 entered a large grassy plain extending north and
east for ten miles, and at 9.15 halted at a small watercourse which
retained a little water in a grassy hollow, our object in halting thus
early being to enable us to start fresh in the afternoon, and, should the
country continue open, to push on through the night, by which the water
could be reached before the heat of the sun was too great for travelling.
At 3.5 resumed our march and traversed level grassy plains extending one
to five miles on each side of our route; at 7.0 observed a native fire
about two miles to the north, from which we concluded that water existed
at no great distance, and at 7.15 were fortunate in finding a pool of
rainwater in a slight depression of the plain, and encamped. We could not
find sufficient wood near the camp to boil our tea, but were satisfied
with the discovery of a sufficient supply of water.
21st March.
We were again in the saddle at 5.15 a.m., and continuing our course north
73 degrees east, reached the limit of the open plain, which turned to the
south-east and extended to the horizon; at 6.40 entered the wooded
country which bounded the plain, and the soil changed from a rich
clay-loam to sandy and gravelly soil with fragments of sandstone, the
vegetation consisting of small white-gum trees, shrubby acacia, and
triodia, with a few patches of grass. The country gradually rose till
9.25, when we came to an abrupt descent into the valley of Sturt's Creek,
but the country did not improve in character till 10.20, when we came to
the grassy flats; at 10.50 camped at a large open pool of water in the
bed of the creek. On the pools there were large flights of whistling
ducks, but so wild that they could not be approached within range of our
guns. Moderate breeze from east with light clouds from south-east during
the day. The weather has for the past ten days been so misty that I have
not been able to get a good set of lunar distances, and it is useless to
observe unless under circumstances favourable for accuracy.
22nd March.
5.35 a.m. found us again travelling up the creek on a northerly course;
at 7.20 changed the course north-east by north, and at 11.30 camped about
a mile below Camp 35. The hill at the bend of the creek proved to be
basaltic, with a stratum of ironstone conglomerate resting on it. The
pools of water in the bed of the creek were much reduced and all the
smaller ones dried up.
23rd March (Sunday).
The feed and water not being in sufficient quantity to permit of our
resting at this camp, we followed up the creek nearly on the outward
course. A few miles above the creek a party of blacks came out of the
creek and commenced a distant parley, but on one of the party approaching
them they picked up their spears they had secreted in the grass and ran
away into the bed of the creek. After six and a half hours' journey
camped at the lower end of the pool, where we had halted on the 15th
February; near the northern bend of the creek we passed a fine deep pool,
which appears to retain water through the dry season. All the smaller
pools had dried up, and the larger ones had sunk two feet since we were
here in February.
24th March.
As the horses had not had a day's rest for some time past, we remained at
the camp to refresh them before attempting to cross the dry country which
divides the southern waters from those flowing to the north-west coast.
As the nearest water which we knew to exist was now fifty miles to the
east, and the country in that direction very bad travelling, we were now,
however, eighty miles in a direct line from the depot camp, and as that
course would take us over new and unexplored country I determined to
attempt a direct route.
1700 FEET ABOVE SEA LEVEL.
25th March.
At 6.20 a.m. steered north 40 degrees east, and, leaving Sturt's Creek,
traversed open grassy plains till 9.5, when we entered a wooded country,
with white-gum trees and underwood, acacia, triodia, and patches of
grass; the soil a poor sandy red loam. At 11.0 passed to the south of an
extensive grassy plain trending to the north-west; at 12.30 p.m. halted
to ease the horses' backs from their loads, and resumed our route at
1.40, and at 2.0 crossed a ridge of stony country which the aneroid
showed to be about 1700 feet above the sea level, and was the highest
spot yet visited by the Expedition. At 2.20 altered the course to east,
and followed a slight depression till 4.0, when we came to a dry
watercourse trending north-west; this was traced down in search of water
till 6.30, when we halted for the night, without finding any water. The
day being very calm and hot, the horses were very much distressed for
want of water; but as there was a little green grass on the bank of the
creek, they were able to feed for a few hours during the night.
Latitude by Leonis 17 degrees 35 minutes 6 seconds.
26th March.
Proceeded down the creek, and at 7.20 a.m. came to a small pool of water,
which the horses consumed in the space of a few minutes, but farther on
came to a more abundant supply, and some of the pools appeared to be
permanent, having a belt of water-pandanus and reeds round them; below
this the channel was perfectly dry and sandy, but was much enlarged by
numerous tributary gullies. At 12.50 p.m. came to a shallow pool, at
which we camped. The country through which this creek passes is poor and
stony, low hills of sandstone schist and limestone rising immediately
behind the narrow strip of grassy land, which is fertilised by the
overflow of the creek in the rainy season. The vegetable productions of
the country seemed to be limited to a few small gum-trees, shrubby
acacia, and triodia, with an occasional patch of grass. At the camp the
bed of the creek was about forty yards wide, with banks fifteen feet
high; the general course appeared to be north-west, a direction which
renders it probable that it flows into Cambridge Gulf.
Latitude by Pollux 17 degrees 25 minutes 31 seconds.
SIXTY MILES WITHOUT WATER.
27th March.
At 6.0 a.m. left the camp and steered a course north 60 degrees east,
gradually ascending among hills of schist and sandstone till 8.20, when
we reached the level tableland. The principal trees were white-gum and
silver-leafed ironbark, the soil a red loam of varying character, well
grassed, but with patches of triodia, which affects a poor gravelly soil
or deep sand. The country was now so nearly level that scarcely any rise
or fall was discoverable, though the aneroid showed some slight
undulations; at 1.15 p.m. halted for an hour, and at 6.0 camped in a
patch of green grass, which enabled the horses to feed though they had no
water. The weather was clear and hot during the day with a light easterly
breeze, the night cloudy and very warm.
DEPOT CAMP.
28th March.
At 5.10 a.m. resumed our course north 60 degrees east through a grassy
forest of ironbark and bloodwood, with patches of small acacia and
triodia. At 7.45 entered a series of open plains covered with high grass.
The plains continued till 10.0, when we passed through an open gum
forest, and the country declined to the east, and at 11.15 came on a
small watercourse, which was dry and sandy. This we followed down to the
north-east till 11.40, when it passed through a rocky gorge in a
sandstone ridge, which rose at an angle of 30 degrees to the south-west
and 40 degrees to the north-east, the latter being the dip of the strata.
In this rocky gorge we could see some pools of water, but they were quite
inaccessible from that side of the ridge, and we had to make a
considerable detour to the south before we could descend to the plain
below, and found a fine pool of water at the termination of the gorge, at
which we halted and watered our thirsty horses. As we were now only two
hours' ride from the depot camp, we after a short rest started again at
3.10 p.m., and at 5.15 reached the depot camp, where we were welcomed by
Mr. Baines and his party, and I was glad to find them all enjoying good
health, and that the horses were in excellent condition. They had been,
however, somewhat annoyed by the blacks, who had made frequent attempts
to burn the camp, and also the horses, by setting fire to the grass, and
on some occasions had come to actual hostilities, though by judicious
management none of the party had been injured; nor was it certain that
any of the blacks had been wounded, though it had been necessary to
resort to the use of firearms in self-defence and for the protection of
the horses.