Journals of Australian Explorations - A C and F T Gregory
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Latitude by a Pegasi 21 degrees 38 minutes 49 seconds.
5th November.
Steering south-east for one mile, reached the main channel of the river,
which was followed south. Crossing to the right bank at 7.20 a.m., at
9.15 a dense brigalow scrub forced us south-west, and again came to the
river at 10.30. A south course was then followed till 1.0 p.m.; then
south-east till 4.0; then followed the river south-south-east till 4.50,
and camped on a large grassy flat. The whole of the country is very level
and covered with dense brigalow scrubs, except one sandy plain, on which
triodia was more abundant than grass. Having now passed the latitude of
Sir T. Mitchell's last camp on the Belyando, and thus connected his route
with that of Dr. Leichhardt, I considered it unnecessary to follow the
river further, and decided on taking a south-easterly route to Peak Downs
and the Mackenzie River.
Latitude by a Pegasi 21 degrees 57 minutes 45 seconds.
6th November.
At 6.30 a.m. crossed the Belyando, and steered south through brigalow
scrubs till 9.0; then entered a box and Moreton-Bay ash flat, in which
was a small gully with rainwater, near which a camp of blacks was
observed; but they ran into the scrub on our approach. At 9.30 changed
the course to south-east towards some rocky hills, which were reached at
11.0. From this we saw several distant ranges to the westward; but the
intervening twenty to forty miles was very flat. The route was now over
scrubby sandstone hills for three hours, and then descended into an open
flat, with box, bloodwood, and Moreton-Bay ash, triodia, and grass
growing on a sandy loam. At 3.30 p.m. camped at a pool of rainwater in a
small creek. In crossing the sandstone range we had a view of some high
peaks twenty to thirty miles distant to the south-south-east; but to the
east the country was quite level.
Latitude by a Pegasi 22 degrees 13 minutes 10 seconds.
7th November.
Started at 6.5 a.m., steering south-east; the whole country appeared
perfectly level with brigalow scrub and patches of open sandy country,
producing triodia and a little grass; the timber Moreton-Bay ash and box.
Towards noon the country was more open. At 1.30 p.m. passed a shallow
pool of rainwater at the edge of a scrub. About a mile further on
Melville's horse fell, and so bruised his rider that we had to return to
the water and camp.
Latitude by a Pegasi 22 degrees 23 minutes 36 seconds.
HORSE-SKIN SOUP.
8th November.
The water being exhausted, the party had to move on in search of a
further supply where we could halt until Melville had recovered from his
injuries. Steering south-east for one hour, came to a fine creek with
grassy flats and a stream of muddy water, indicating that there had been
heavy rain in the ranges to the south. Having camped, we shot the filly,
which was now eleven months old, cut the flesh into slices and hung it up
to dry in the sun during the day and over a charcoal fire at night. The
skin was cleared of hair, and was thus made into a species of gelatine,
from which excellent soup was subsequently prepared. The saddlery had
become much worn by passing through the scrubs, and the party was fully
employed in repairs and shoeing the horses, many of which were very lame
from injury among the fallen timber.
9th November (Sunday).
Melville somewhat better, but scarcely able to walk. The meat drying
well.
Latitude by a Pegasi 22 degrees 26 minutes 16 seconds.
10th November.
At 7.40 a.m. left the camp and followed the creek up for an hour
south-south-east; then steered south-east through brigalow scrub, which
gradually changed to open ironbark and box flats well grassed. At 2.0
p.m. came to broken country covered with a dense scrub of acacia and
ironbark, deep gullies intersecting the country in every direction; at
3.30 ascended a ridge of mica schist, from which a high range was seen
twenty miles to the south-east, but the scrub was so dense that the view
was imperfect. Followed a gully, which changed from south round to
north-west till 5.15, when we camped at a small pool of rainwater. There
were good grassy flats along the watercourse, but the hills were covered
with scrub. It is evident that we are now approaching the watershed of
the Fitzroy River, and hope soon to emerge from the vast tract of scrub
which occupies the valley of the Suttor River. On the plain we observed
that more than half the box-trees had died within the last three years,
and that they had not been killed by bush fires, as the old timber which
lay on the ground was not scorched.
Latitude by a Andromedae 22 degrees 42 minutes 13 seconds.
PEAK RANGE.
11th November.
Leaving the camp at 6.30 a.m., steered south-east over ironbark ridges of
very scrubby character with open grassy valleys; the ridges increased in
height, and at 11.0, having reached the most elevated summit, got a view
of Peak Range about thirty miles to the north-east; to the north-west the
view was obscured by wooded ranges, but from north to east-south-east the
country consisted of low-wooded ridges for ten miles, beyond which fine
open grassy plains extended from east-north-east to east, along the foot
of Peak Range. Descending from the range, followed a small watercourse
east-south-east for two hours, and then north-east, and at 2.30 p.m.
encamped in a fine grassy flat with a small pool of rainwater in a gully,
the larger creek being dry. The country generally consists of low ridges
of schist, which, by decomposition, forms a gravelly loam, the gravel
being derived from the quartz veins which intersect the schist in all
directions. The forest consists of ironbark and acacia; grass everywhere
abundant. Many of the horses are very lame from the splinters of dead
wood in the scrub, and some have to be relieved entirely of their loads.
Latitude by a Pegasi 22 degrees 48 minutes 17 seconds; longitude by lunar
distances 147 degrees 30 minutes 30 seconds.
12th November.
At 7.25 a.m. steered north 110 degrees east, over grassy ironbark ridges,
with small watercourses trending north; at 11.0 entered a dense brigalow
scrub with a few Moreton-Bay ash-trees, the soil very poor and derived
from the decomposition of a coarse conglomerate; small watercourses
trending to the south. At 12.45 p.m. emerged from the scrub into open box
forest, with limestone and quartz gravel, and a soft black soil producing
rather dry scanty grass. At 1.45 entered a well-grassed plain with
limestone ridges covered with bottle-tree scrub; the grass was good at
this season, green but much mixed with salsola; the summits of Peak Range
showed well above the ridges, and from the cliff around the tops seem to
be capped with sandstone or more probably porphyry. There being little
prospect of finding water in an easterly direction, at 4.0 altered the
course to south-east; a heavy squall and thunderstorm brought some rain,
but it was all immediately absorbed by the hot dry soil, at 5.0 came to a
watercourse trending south, followed it till 6.30, and camped without
water; about a mile north from the camp saw a small box-tree marked AB,
and near it a large sheet of bark which had been cut about two years
before.
Latitude by Saturn 23 degrees 18 seconds.
13th November.
Resumed the journey at 6.20 a.m., steering south down the watercourse; at
7.0 saw some blacks, who, when asked by signs where water could be found,
pointed down the creek and into the scrub; at 9.20 came to a pool of
rainwater and camped. This part of the country is very poor and scrubby,
with large Moreton-Bay ash trees, the soil formed by the decomposition of
sandstone and conglomerate, with intervals of schist and trap-rock.
CROSS THE PEAK DOWNS.
14th November.
At 6.50 a.m. steered south-east; we soon entered a grassy plain with
ironbark ridges and belts of acacia scrub, trap, and limestone on the
plains, and sandstone on the ridges; at noon passed a belt of cypress and
entered extensive open downs covered with beautiful green grass.
Following a shallow watercourse, passed some blacks at a distance, and at
4.20 p.m. came to a small pool of rainwater, and camped. The country to
the north-east appeared level, and the grassy downs apparently extend to
the foot of Peak Range. To the south-west it appeared to be a fine open
country for three to eight miles, and then rose into wooded hills of
moderate elevation, at the base of which a creek appeared to run to the
south-east. If this part of the country were well supplied with water it
would form splendid stations for the squatter; but from its level
character and geological structure, permanent surface-water is very
scarce, and where it does exist it is surrounded by scrubby
country, which renders it almost unavailable.
THE MACKENZIE RIVER.
15th November.
At 6.40 steered east-south-east and soon entered an open acacia scrub
with some grassy patches; the soil a fine black loam; limestone, trap,
and quartz-pebbles occurring on the surface in the open plain; at 9.0
entered a fine box flat, and passed some pools of water; the flat
extending east three miles; then entered a scrubby tract of country, the
soil a black mould with much salsola growing even in the thick scrub; at
11.0 came on a fine creek from the north with pools of permanent water
(Crinum Creek), but the banks covered with scrub. Changing the course to
south-east, at 12.20 p.m. came to a fine river with high grassy banks and
several deep channels which were now full of water and running in
consequence of the late rains. It had been slightly flooded this season,
and the previous year had risen twenty-five feet above the present level.
This river is the Mackenzie of Leichhardt. The course of the river is to
the east-south-east, and we crossed to the right bank without much
difficulty, the bottom being firm and the bank sandy; followed the river
till 2.40, and camped. The country on the banks of the Mackenzie is
scrubby, with occasional open flats; the timber box, with good grass. The
little lemon-tree was in full bearing, and though the fruit is only half
an inch in diameter, was excellent eating when boiled with sugar. The day
was cool and cloudy, and it rained lightly for some hours during the
night.
Latitude by Procyon 23 degrees 28 minutes 19 seconds.
16th November (Sunday).
Remained at the camp. The morning was cool and cloudy, but cleared
towards noon, and at night got sights for latitude.
LEICHHARDT'S CAMP.
17th November.
Resumed our journey at 6.40 a.m. Followed the Mackenzie south-east
through level country with much scrub till 9.25 a.m., when we crossed a
large creek from the south, which proved to be the Comet River of Dr.
Leichhardt. The whole bed of the Comet did not exceed seventy yards, and
the smaller channel only five to six yards wide, and even below its
junction the Mackenzie only had a channel ten to thirty yards wide in the
bottom of a bed 150 yards wide from bank to bank. Just below the junction
of the Comet we found the remains of a camp of Dr. Leichhardt's party on
its second journey. The ashes of the fire were still visible, and a
quantity of bones of goats were scattered around. A large tree was marked
thus:
DIG arrow pointing down L
but a hollow in the ground at the foot of the tree showed that whatever
had been deposited had long since been removed. We, however, cleared out
the loose earth, but found nothing. The river now turned east-north-east,
and our course being east, we receded from it, and at noon we ascended a
rocky hill of sandstone covered with scrub; we therefore steered north
for an hour and came to the Mackenzie, and encamped in a fine grassy
flat, but beyond the immediate flats of the river the country was covered
with scrub. Near the camp a large flooded-gum tree had been marked:
Solid square [symbol ??]
some years before. The day was cloudy with easterly breeze. Marked a
tree:
120 solid Delta
this being the 120th camp since starting from the Victoria River.
18th November.
Rain commenced at 7.0 a.m. and continued till noon; at 6.25 steered east
and soon entered a dense scrub of acacia, box, sterculia, and Moreton-Bay
ash. Ascending to the level tableland by a steep sandstone slope, at
11.25 passed a gully with deep waterholes which appeared permanent, and
at 1.40 p.m. encamped at a deep creek with a small pool of water. To the
south-east of the camp about five miles distant a range of hills rose
abruptly from the level country to a height of 800 to 1000 feet. The
summits were flat and surrounded by high cliffs of red sandstone
(Expedition Range).
Latitude by Procyon 23 degrees 33 minutes 40 seconds; variation of
compass 7 degrees 50 minutes east.
19th November.
Resumed our route at 6.30 a.m.; steered east through dense scrubs with
open patches of grassy forest, the soil a light loam, very sandy in the
open forest. Small watercourses trended north; at 10.0 turned to
south-east to avoid a large scrubby hill which lay detached from the
principal range; at 11.0 again steered east, ascending a steep sandstone
hill from which the country to the north and east appeared extremely
level, we then crossed a series of ironbark ridges with scrub at
intervals, and fine flooded-gum and box flats in the valleys; casuarina
and cypress grew on some of the ridges, but the country generally was
well grassed; at 3.30 p.m. encamped at a small pool of water in a shallow
watercourse trending north-east.
Latitude by Saturn 23 degrees 37 minutes 23 seconds.
20th November.
At 7.40 a.m. steered east over open country, thinly timbered with box and
ironbark; at 10.0 crossed a dry creek, on the banks of which were recent
tracks of horses and cattle; at noon there was a heavy thunderstorm, and
at the same time entered a dense scrub of brigalow and casuarina; at 2.0
p.m. the country was more open, and at 4.10 camped near a small gully
with pools of rainwater; heavy rain during the night.
21st November.
Continued an east course; at 6.50 a.m. crossed some wooded ridges, from
which ranges of hills were imperfectly seen about twelve miles to the
east; descending the ridges, entered a brigalow scrub, and at 11.40 came
to the Dawson River, about eighty yards wide, with long shallow pools of
water, the scrub coming close to the bank on both sides, leaving a narrow
grassy flat; followed the river upwards to the southward till 2.50 p.m.,
and camped on the left bank of the river. The flats on the bank of the
river are here much wider and well grassed, and we observed the tracks of
horses.
REACH THE FIRST STATION ON THE DAWSON RIVER.
22nd November.
At 6.15 a.m. resumed our route up the river south-east, and at 8.0 came
to a dray-track, which was followed east-north-east two miles to Messrs.
Connor and Fitz' station, where we met with a most hospitable reception.
Latitude by Procyon 23 degrees 51 minutes 15 seconds.
The party having thus reached the occupied country travelled by the
dray-tracks past Mr. Hay's station Rannes, on the 25th November, and
thence by Rawbelle, Boondooma, Tabinga, Nanango, Collinton, Kilkoy,
Durandur, and Cabulture stations, reached Brisbane on the 16th December,
1856.
***
1857. NEW SOUTH WALES LEGISLATIVE ASSEMBLY.
DR. LEICHHARDT, PROPOSED EXPEDITION IN SEARCH OF.
ORDERED BY THE LEGISLATIVE ASSEMBLY TO BE PRINTED, 28TH OCTOBER, 1857.
PROCEEDINGS OF THE EXECUTIVE COUNCIL ON THE 14TH SEPTEMBER, 1857, WITH
RESPECT TO AN EXPEDITION IN SEARCH OF DR. LEICHHARDT.
MINUTE NUMBER 57-44.
His Excellency the Governor-General, at the instance of the Honourable
the Colonial Secretary, brings under the consideration of the Council a
proposal which has been made to organise another Expedition to ascertain,
if possible, beyond doubt, the fate of Dr. Leichhardt, who left Sydney
some nine years ago with the intention of exploring the north-western
interior of Australia. This proposal has its origin in a public meeting,
held in Sydney on the 11th instant, at which resolutions were passed
invoking the assistance of the Government, and it is recommended to
favourable consideration at the present moment by the circumstance that
Mr. Gregory, who recently returned from a successful exploration in the
same direction, has intimated his willingness to undertake the conduct of
the proposed Expedition.
2. The Council express themselves desirous of seizing so favourable an
opportunity of pursuing this inquiry, and they therefore advise that Mr.
Gregory should be at once invited to submit, for approval, a definite
proposal having for its object: 1st, to ascertain the fate of the late
Dr. Leichhardt; and, 2nd, to connect the exploring surveys of Mitchell
and Kennedy with his own; such proposal to be accompanied by an estimate
of the probable expense which it will be necessary to incur.
EDWARD C. MEREWETHER,
Clerk of the Council.
Executive Council Office,
Sydney, 22 September, 1857.
...
A.C. GREGORY, ESQUIRE, TO THE COLONIAL SECRETARY.
Sydney, 15 September, 1857.
SIR,
Adverting to your verbal communication of yesterday, with reference to
the proposed Expedition in search of traces of Dr. Leichhardt, I have the
honour to furnish a memorandum of the arrangements I would suggest for
the organisation and conduct of a party calculated to effect the objects
in view, together with an estimate of the probable cost.
These documents I have submitted to such of the gentlemen composing the
Committee of the Leichhardt Association as I have had the opportunity of
consulting, and I have availed myself of their experience of the District
in which the Expedition would be organised.
Although I have allowed extreme rates for many of the items of
expenditure, yet, as in all undertakings of this description unavoidable
and unforeseen contingencies are certain to arise, I should scarcely feel
justified in naming the gross amount which should be available, though
not necessarily expended, at a less sum than 4,500 pounds.
I have, etc.,
A.C. GREGORY.
The Honourable the Colonial Secretary.
...
MEMORANDUM FOR THE ORGANISATION OF AN EXPLORING EXPEDITION FOR THE
PURPOSE OF SEARCHING FOR TRACES OF DR. LEICHHARDT'S PARTY.
The objects of the proposed Expedition would be primarily to search for
traces of Dr. Leichhardt and his party, who started from the settled
districts of New South Wales in April, 1848, with the intention of
proceeding to Western Australia, and, if possible, to ascertain the fate
of that unfortunate explorer. Secondly, the examination of the country
both in the intervening spaces between the tracks of previous explorers,
and also beyond the limits of that hitherto explored, with a view of
developing its resources, especially with reference to its capabilities
for settlement.
The party despatched by the Colonial Government, under Mr. Hely, in
1851-2, traced Dr. Leichhardt to a spot near the head of the Warrego
River.
Beyond this spot Dr. Leichhardt had expressed his intention of proceeding
down the Victoria River to its northern bend, and then shape his course
along the interior slope of the ranges which he supposed existed at the
sources of the streams flowing to the northern coast.
The proposed route of the searching Expedition would therefore be to
reach Leichhardt's last known camp, and then to examine the banks of the
Victoria River to the junction of the Alice River, at the northern bend,
where especial search would be made, as Dr. Leichhardt intended to leave
letters there, and would probably encamp for several days to recruit
before finally entering the unknown country; and the non-existence of
marks at this point would be almost conclusive evidence that the party
had perished nearer to the settlements.
In the search for traces of the missing party beyond this point (as it
could only be at the camping places that any traces would remain after so
long an interval), it would be necessary to follow such natural features
as would probably have influenced the party in the selection of its
route, assuming that the general course would be north-west.
The investigation having been carried to the fullest extent that time and
circumstances would admit, the searching party would adopt such a route
on its return as would intersect the greatest extent of unexamined
country. To effect these objects it is proposed to organise a party at
one of the outer stations, say at Surat, on the Lower Condamine River,
from which Leichhardt's last known camp is 230 miles, and the junction of
the Alice with the Victoria River, 370 miles, not allowing for
deviations.
The party to consist of two sections, which may be termed the Exploring
and the Auxiliary parties.
The first would comprise eight persons, equipped and provisioned for 5
months, and for the conveyance of which 32 horses would be required, as
follows:
Commander.
Assistant.
Overseer, etc.
4 Stockmen.
1 Aboriginal Stockman.
The second section would be composed of six persons, provisioned etc.,
for 2 months, and for the conveyance of which 13 horses would be
required, as follows:
1 Leader.
4 Stockmen.
1 Aboriginal Black.
These two sections would proceed together to the junction of the Alice
and Victoria Rivers, and would be sufficiently strong to detach parties
to examine points out of the more direct line of route which the main
body would follow.
On reaching the spot above referred to, the Exploring Party would be
fitted out in the most efficient manner for continuing its operations, by
selecting the strongest and most serviceable portion of the horses,
equipment, etc., while the Auxiliary Party would return with the
remainder to the settlements; thus affording nearly all the advantages of
a depot, without incurring the greater expense or inconvenience attending
the otherwise necessary return of the Exploring Party by the same route.
It is scarcely necessary to advert to the many advantages which would be
derived from this arrangement, for enabling the Exploring Party to reach
the extreme known point of country, with its strength impaired in the
least possible degree, while it would afford an opportunity of testing
the capabilities of the party to be finally selected.
ESTIMATE OF THE COST (IN POUNDS/SHILLINGS/PENCE) OF THE EQUIPMENT, ETC.,
OF THE EXPLORING PARTY.
PROVISIONS.
1400 pounds Flour : 17/10/0.
500 pounds Bacon : 25/0/0.
400 pounds Sugar : 10/0/0.
70 pounds Tea : 7/0/0.
750 pounds Meat Biscuit : 37/10/0.
70 pounds Tobacco : 8/15/0.
20 pounds Sago : 0/13/4.
6 pounds Pepper : 0/6/0.
50 pounds Salt : 0/5/0.
50 pounds Soap : 0/18/8.
6 pounds Sperm Candles : 0/9/0.
150 pounds Dried Beef--800 pounds fresh meat : 10/0/0.
1000 pounds Fresh Meat : 12/0/0.
SUBTOTAL : 130/7/0.
TRANSPORT.
45 Horses, at 40 pounds : 1800/0/0.
14 Riding Saddles, at 60 shillings : 42/0/0.
31 Pack Saddles, at 77 shillings 6 pence : 120/2/6.
45 Bridles and Headstalls, at 9 shillings : 20/5/0.
45 Horse Blankets, at 8 shillings : 18/0/0.
100 Hobbles, at 4 shillings : 20/0/0.
20 Pairs Girths, at 4 shillings : 4/0/0.
31 Canvas Saddle-bags, at 25 shillings : 38/17/0.
100 Provision Bags, at 3 shillings : 15/0/0.
40 Yards Canvas, at 1 shilling 6 pence : 3/0/0.
10 Horse-bells, at 6 shillings 6 pence : 3/5/0.
Materials for repairs, etc. : 20/0/0.
90 Sets Horse-straps and Nails : 10/0/0.
100 Saddle-straps, at 1 shilling : 5/0/0.
SUBTOTAL : 2119/9/6.
ARMS AND AMMUNITION.
13 Double guns, at 5 pounds : 65/0/0.
13 Revolvers, at 5 pounds : 65/0/0.
30 pounds Gunpowder : 6/0/0.
150 pounds Shot and Lead : 3/0/0.
5000 Percussion Caps : 1/10/0.
14 Belts and Pouches : 3/10/0.
14 Gun-buckets : 4/18/0.
Sundries : 10/0/0.
SUBTOTAL : 158/18/0.
CAMP EQUIPAGE.
14 Calico Sheets for Tents, at 12 shillings : 8/8/0.
50 yards Calico, at 6 pence : 1/5/0.
6 Camp Kettles, at 5 shillings : 1/10/0.
40 Pannikins, at 8 pence : 1/6/8.
3 Leather Buckets, at 17 shillings 6 pence : 2/12/6.
20 Tin Dishes, at 9 pence : 0/15/0.
2 Frying-Pans, at 4 shillings 6 pence : 0/9/0.
2 Water Bags, at 30 shillings : 3/0/0.
14 Water Holders, India-Rubber, at 10 shillings 6 pence : 7/7/0.
2 Socket Shovels, at 2 shillings 6 pence : 0/5/0.
2 spring Balances, at 7 shillings : 0/14/0.
SUBTOTAL : 27/12/2.
INSTRUMENTS, ETC.
1 Sextant : 10/0/0.
1 Prismatic Compass : 3/0/0.
1 Artificial Horizon : 4/0/0.
4 Pocket Compasses : 1/0/0.
2 Aneroid Barometers : 7/0/0.
3 Thermometers : 1/1/0.
1 Lever Watch : 9/0/0.
Stationery : 5/0/0.
SUBTOTAL : 40/1/0.
CLOTHING.
20 Trousers, at 7 shillings : 7/0/0.
20 Serge Shirts, at 6 shillings : 6/0/0.
20 Cotton Shirts, at 3 shillings : 3/0/0.
20 Pairs of Boots, at 15 shillings : 15/0/0.
14 Blankets, at 10 shillings : 7/0/0.
14 Oiled Capes, at 10 shillings : 7/0/0.
SUBTOTAL : 45/0/0.
TOTAL EQUIPMENT : 2521/7/8.
CONTINGENCIES.
Medical Stores and Drugs : 20/0/0.
Petty Contingencies : 50/0/0.
Collection and Forage for Horses prior to starting : 100/0/0.
Freights and Passages from Sydney to Moreton Bay : 50/0/0.
Conveyance of Stores from Brisbane to Surat : 200/0/0.
Contingent Expenses in the Collection of the Party at Surat : 100/0/0.
TOTAL CONTINGENCIES : 520/0/0.
SALARIES.
Commander, 9 months, 600 pounds per annum : 450/0/0.
Assistant, 7 months, 300 pounds per annum : 175/0/0.
Overseer, 6 months, at 150 pounds per annum : 75/0/0.
4 Stockmen, 6 months, at 2 pounds per week : 208/0/0.
1 Aboriginal Stockman, 6 months : 20/0/0.
Leader of the Auxiliary Party, 3 months : 75/0/0.
4 Stockmen, 3 months : 104/0/0.
1 Aboriginal Stockman, 3 months : 10/0/0.
TOTAL SALARIES : 1117/0/0.