The Life of Captain James Cook - Arthur Kitson
COOK'S WASHING STOLEN.
On 31st October they rounded East Cape, and following the coast, which
trended more to the west, they saw a great number of villages and patches
of cultivation, some of the last looking as if freshly ploughed. The
whole aspect of the country was changing for the better, but the
inhabitants did not seem more peaceably inclined. Five canoes came out to
the ship fully armed, and apparently bent on mischief. Cook was very
busy, and did not want them on board, so to keep them off ordered a
musket to be fired over them; but as it only caused them to stop for a
moment, a round shot was sent over them, and they hurriedly turned tail.
The place was given the name Cape Runaway. White Island was named, but it
must have been quiescent as there is no note of its being a volcano. As
they sailed along the coast they met with canoes from which fish,
lobsters, and mussels were purchased, and trading seemed well
established, when one gentleman took a fancy to Cook's sheets, which were
trailing overboard (they were in the wash), and refused to give them up.
Muskets were fired over them and they fled, and Cook lost his sheets.
From near White Island, Mount Edgecombe was seen, named after the
sergeant of marines. It is a high round mountain, and forms a conspicuous
landmark on both sides of the North Island. During this day they had
noticed several small villages perched on difficult eminences and
surrounded by palisades, which Tupia declared were "Mories or places of
worship," but, says Cook:
"I rather think they are places of retreat or strongholds, where they
defend themselves against the attack of an enemy, as some of them seem'd
not ill design'd for that purpose."
British soldiers have since discovered that a Maori Pah is "not ill
designed for that purpose." Cook most unfortunately missed the Harbour of
Tauranga, the only safe port on the east coast between Auckland and
Wellington for ships of any size.
NATIVE ACCOUNT.
In what is now known as Cook's Bay, they managed to induce the natives to
trade, and purchased crayfish, over which Parkinson waxes enthusiastic,
and "Mackerell as good as ever was eat," the latter in such large
quantities that they were able to salt a considerable number, thus saving
their sea stores. After an observation of a transit of Mercury, in which
they were not very successful (Wharton thinks they were taken by
surprise, the transit occurring somewhat earlier than expected; Green
says: "Unfortunately for the seamen, their look-out was on the wrong side
of the sun. The end was likewise as grossly mistaken"), they returned to
the ship and found that there had been a difficulty with the natives, who
had assumed a very threatening manner, and one attempted to run off with
a piece of calico which was at that time a subject of barter. Mr. Gore
seized a musket and fired, killing his man. Colonel Mundy, in Our
Antipodes, says he saw a man named Taniwha, in 1848, who remembered
Cook's visit, and imitated his walk, with the peculiar manner he had of
waving his right hand, and also told of the kindly way Cook had with the
children. Taniwha told Mundy that after the man was shot, the Maoris
landed, consulted over the body, and decided that as the corpse
"commenced the quarrel by the theft of the calico, his death should not
be revenged, but that he should be buried in the cloth which he had paid
for with his life." Colonel Wynyard took down the same story from
Taniwha's lips in 1852, when he was supposed to be about ninety-three,
and says: "His faculties were little impaired, and his great age
perceptible more from a stoop and grey hairs than any other infirmity."
Cook expressed very strong disapproval of Mr. Gore's conduct.
Next day Cook and Banks explored a river that entered near where they
were anchored, the east side of which was very barren, but the west was
much better, no signs of cultivation showing on either. Wild fowl were
plentiful, and oysters, "as good as ever came from Colchester," and of
about the same size, says Banks, were taken on board in large quantities:
"laid down under the booms, and employed the ship's company very well,
who, I sincerely believe, did nothing but eat them from the time they
came on board till night, by which time a large part were expended. But
this gave us no kind of uneasiness, since we well knew that not the boat
only, but the ship might be loaded in one tide almost, as they are dry at
half ebb."
Cook thinks the inhabitants lived on fish, and shell-fish, with fern
roots for bread, for very large heaps of shells were found, but no signs
of cultivation.
A fortified village was visited, the inhabitants good-naturedly
conducting them all over, and showing whatever they expressed a wish to
see. It was built on a high promontory, whose sides were in some places
quite inaccessible, in others very difficult, except where it faced the
narrow edge of the hill. Here it was defended by a double ditch and bank,
with two rows of pickets, the inner row being on the bank, leaving
standing-room for the defenders. The inner ditch was 24 feet from bottom
to top of the bank. A stage about 30 feet high, 40 feet long, and 6 feet
wide, was erected inside the fence, with a second, a few paces from it,
placed at right angles; from these the garrison were able to throw their
spears and stones on to the heads of their enemies. The whole village was
surrounded by a strong picket fence, running close to the edge of the
hill. The entire surface of the top of the hill was cut up into small
squares, each surrounded by its own fence, and communicating by narrow
lanes, with little gateways, so that if the outer defences were forced
each square could be defended in turn. Cook says:
"I look upon it to be a very strong and well choose Post, and where a
small number of resolute men might defend themselves a long time against
a vast superior force, armed in the manner as these people are."
He noticed, with quick eye, the great failing in these native fortresses,
that is, the want of storage for water. In these Maori villages it was
remarked that sanitary arrangements were provided, such as, says Beckmann
in his History of Inventions, did not exist in the palace of the King of
Spain at that time.
Large quantities of iron sand were noted here, but the use was quite
unknown to the natives, who were indifferent to the iron tools or spikes
which had hitherto been such a valuable medium of exchange elsewhere. A
large supply of wild celery and a fresh boat-load of oysters were put on
board; a tree was marked with the name of the ship, the date, and one or
two other particulars, the flag was hoisted, saluted, and possession
taken of the country, and the ship sailed again on her journey.
AT THE THAMES.
Running closely along the coast, they hauled round Cape Colville into
"the Entrance of a Straight, Bay or River," and anchored for the night,
and in the morning they stood on along the east side. Canoes came off,
and from the behaviour of the occupants, some of whom came on board at
the first invitation, it was judged that favourable accounts had been
heard of the ship. After running about 5 leagues the water shoaled to
about 6 fathoms, and the ship anchored, and boats were sent out to sound.
No great increase of depth being found, the pinnace and long-boat went up
a river about 9 miles away, and on account of a fancied resemblance named
it the Thames. They landed at a village near the mouth, being well
received, but desiring to take advantage of the flood-tide which ran "as
strong as it does in the River Thames below bridge," they made no stay;
they went up about 14 miles, and then, finding little alteration in the
appearance of the country, landed to inspect some large trees of a kind
they had previously noticed. One was carefully measured, and was found to
be 19 feet 6 inches girth at 6 feet from the ground, and, by means of
Cook's quadrant, 89 feet to the lowest branch. It was perfectly straight,
and tapered very slightly, and some were seen that were even larger. This
was the Black Pine; to the Maoris, Matoi, and to the naturalist,
Podocarpus.
On the way down the river their friends of the morning came out and
"traffick'd with us in the most friendly manner imaginable, until they
had disposed of the few trifles they had." When the boats got outside
they had to anchor, as a strong tide and breeze were against them, and
they did not reach the ship till next morning, when the breeze had
increased to a gale, and topgallant yards had to be struck. When the wind
dropped, what was left was against them, and the Endeavour would only go
with the tide, so Cook took a run ashore to the west side of the bay, but
saw nothing of interest, and concluded it was but sparsely inhabited.
Whilst he was away natives went off to trade and behaved remarkably well,
with the exception of one man who was caught making off with the
half-hour glass, so Mr. Hicks had him triced up, and he was given a dozen
lashes. When it was explained to his friends why this was done, they
expressed their approval, and on his release an old man gave him another
thrashing.
The weather now became very unsettled, and they were not able to keep as
near the coast as they desired, but on 26th November some cultivated
spots were seen, and several canoes came off.
"Some of the natives ventur'd on board; to two, who appeared to be
chiefs, I gave presents. After these were gone out of the ship, the
others became so Troublesome that in order to get rid of them, we were at
the expense of two or three Musquet Balls and one 4 pound shott, but as
no harm was intended them, none they received, unless they happened to
overheat themselves in pulling ashore."
A STAMPEDE.
To the west side of Cape Brett is a deep bay which was seen but not
named, and here the town of Russell is now established, said to possess
one of the finest harbours in the world, into which vessels of any
draught can enter in all weathers and at any state of the tide. The
natives were found difficult to deal with, and "would cheat whenever they
had an opportunity." The ship left its anchorage, but was after a time
driven back again, and Cook, with a party, took the opportunity to land.
They were followed up by the Maoris, and were soon surrounded by about
two hundred of them, some of whom tried to seize the boats, but being
driven off tried to break in on the party. Several charges of small shot,
which did no serious damage, were fired into them, and then the ship
fired a 4 pounder over them, which caused a stampede, and during the rest
of the stay there was no further trouble, but Cook had to punish three of
his own men for stealing potatoes from one of the plantations. He
invariably tried to hold the balance fairly between his men and the
natives.
The country is described as very similar to that seen before, but the
number of inhabitants was greater, and though apparently not under the
same chiefs, they were on good terms with each other, and inclined to be
civil to their visitors. A good deal of the ground was under cultivation,
producing good sweet-potatoes. A few trees of the paper-mulberry were
seen, from which the natives made a cloth in a similar manner to the
Otaheitans, but the quantity was so small that it was only used for
ornament. Tupia, who had been instructed to gain as much information
about the people as he could, was informed that some of their ancestors
once went off in large canoes and discovered a country to the north-west
after a passage of about a month, only a small number returning. These
reported they had been to a place where the people ate hogs, using the
same word for the animal as the Otaheitans, Tupia asked if they had any
in New Zealand, and the reply was "no." He asked if their ancestors
brought any back, again the answer was "no"; whereon he told them their
story must be a lie, for their ancestors could never have been such fools
as to come back without some. The land said to have been discovered may
have been New Caledonia.
One of the men who had been wounded at the first coming of the ship was
seen by Banks. A ball had gone through his arm and grazed his chest. He
did not seem to have any pain, and the wound though exposed to the air,
was perfectly healthy, and he was greatly pleased to receive a musket
ball like the one which had wounded him.
When leaving the bay they nearly grounded, being set by the current
towards a small island, but the boats towed them clear. Very soon after
they struck on an unseen rock, which was named Whale Rock, but almost
immediately got clear, with no "perceptible damage," into twenty fathoms.
BLOWN OFF THE LAND.
Progress was now very slow, owing either to want of, or adverse wind. On
10th December they discovered two bays separated by a low neck of land,
Knuckle Point; one bay was named Doubtless Bay and the other Sandy Bay;
the country is described as nothing but irregular white sandhills, and
Cook concluded from its appearance that the island was here very narrow
and exposed to the open sea on the west. This he soon proved to be
correct. Foster, in his account of the Second Voyage, says that when the
Endeavour was passing Doubtless Bay, M. de Surville was anchored under
the land, in the Saint Jean Baptiste, and saw Cook's ship, though himself
unseen. In the account of De Surville's voyage, published by the Academie
Francaise, it is stated that New Zealand was not sighted till 12th
December 1769, and owing to bad weather no anchorage was gained till
17th. No mention whatever is made of the Endeavour being sighted, and M.
l'Abbe Rochon, the editor, thinks it most probable that neither navigator
knew anything of the movements of the other. De Surville mentions having
lost anchors in a place he calls Double Bay, during a storm "ABOUT 22nd
December," and it may possibly have been the one Cook encountered on the
28th off the north end of the island. They were blown out of sight of
land on the 13th, the main topsail being split, and next day both fore
and mizzen topsails were lost, but they managed to bring up under shelter
of a small island off Knuckle Point. On the 15th the latitude was found
to be 34 degrees 6 minutes South, with land visible to the south-west,
and a large swell was coming from the west, so Cook concluded this was
the most northerly point of the island, and named it North Cape.
After beating about for some days against westerly winds, they ran up
north, returning southwards 23rd December, and the following day sighted
land to the south-east, which proved to be Tasman's Three Kings. Here
Banks provided the Christmas dinner, shooting several solan geese, which
were made into a pie, and were "eaten with great approbation; and in the
evening all hands were as drunk as our forefathers used to be upon like
occasions."
On the 27th, when about thirty leagues west of North Cape, and about the
same latitude as the Bay of Islands, no land in sight, the wind rose so
that they had to bring to, under the mainsail, but moderated a little the
next day so that they could run in towards the land. Again it freshened
up and blew a perfect hurricane, accompanied by heavy rain, and a
"prodidgeous high sea," which caused the ship to go greatly to leeward.
On the 30th, Cape Maria van Diemen was seen about six leagues off, the
land extending east and south. On the last day of the year their position
was given as "34 degrees 42 minutes South, Cape Maria van Diemen
North-East by North about 5 leagues." Cook says:
"I cannot help thinking but what it will appear a little strange that, at
this season of the year, we should be three weeks in getting fifty
leagues, for so long is it since we pass'd Cape Brett; but it will hardly
be credited that in the midst of summer and in the latitude of 35 degrees
South such a gale of wind as we have had could have happened, which for
its strength and continuance was such as I hardly was ever in before.
Fortunately at this time we were a good distance from land, otherwise it
would have proved fatal to us."
VEGETABLE SHEEP.
On 2nd January 1770 Cook fixed the position of Cape Maria van Diemen,
giving it as 34 degrees 30 minutes South, 187 degrees 18 minutes West of
Greenwich. Admiral Wharton remarks that this is extraordinarily correct,
seeing that the ship was never close to the Cape, and the observations
were all taken in very bad weather. The latitude is exact, and the
longitude only three miles out. He missed seeing Kaipara Harbour, one of
the few good ones on the west coast, and describes the land as having a
most desolate and inhospitable appearance, nothing but sandhills with
hardly a sign of vegetation on them, and says: "If we was once clear of
it, I am determined not to come so near again if I can avoid it, unless
we have a very favourable wind indeed." On the 11th, a high mountain, its
summit covered with snow, was seen, and named Mount Egmont; Wharton gives
its height as 8,300 feet, and describes it as a magnificent conical
mountain surrounded on three sides by the sea. Banks notes on the sides
of the hill "many white lumps in companies which bore much resemblance to
flocks of sheep." These were a peculiar plant, Raoulia mammillaris
(Hooker), known in New Zealand as vegetable sheep. Fires were seen, the
first sign of inhabitants on the west coast.
On the 14th, thinking he was in the entrance of a large bay, Cook ran in
under the southern coast, and finding it broken into promising-looking
bays, determined to run into one and careen the ship, as she was very
foul; it is now called Ship Cove, in Queen Charlotte's Sound. Here they
were at once visited by canoes, whose fully armed occupants commenced
acquaintance by "heaving a few stones against the ship." Tupia opened a
conversation, and a few ventured on board, but did not make a long stay.
Cook then landed to look for water, and soon found an excellent supply,
and "as to wood the land is here an entire forest." Whilst he was away,
the crew got out the nets, and caught about 300 pounds of fish. Some
natives also came off with fish, and though it was not good, Cook ordered
it to be bought, in order to open up trade with them. However, they soon
found these people were inclined to be quarrelsome and threatening, and
as the ship was in an awkward position, being already hove down for
cleaning, a charge of small shot was fired at the worst offender, which
quickly taught them to behave better in future.
They had long suspected the natives were addicted to cannibalism, and now
they proved it, as they purchased the bone of a forearm of a man, from
which the flesh had been recently picked, and were given to understand
that a few days before a strange canoe had arrived, and its occupants had
been killed and eaten. They only ate their enemies, but held all
strangers to be such. The place where the ship was careened was,
according to Wharton, about 70 miles from Massacre Bay, where Tasman's
men were killed, and Cook endeavoured to find out if there were any
traditions of visits from ships to the neighbourhood, but could gain no
information. The natives became friendly as time went on, and brought
good fish which they sold for nails, cloth, paper (a great favourite at
first, but when they found it would not stand water, worthless), and Cook
says: "In this Traffic they never once attempted to defraud us of any one
thing, but dealt as fair as people could do."
The surrounding country was too thickly timbered for them to see much,
but one day, being out in a boat trying to find the end of the inlet,
Cook took the opportunity of climbing a thickly timbered hill, and from
there saw, far away to the eastward, that the seas which washed both west
and eastern coasts were united, and that one part of New Zealand, at any
rate, was an island, and he had thus solved one of the problems he had
given him in England. They also saw that much of their immediate
neighbourhood was not mainland as they had thought, but consisted of a
number of small islands.
A MORE SENSIBLE PEOPLE.
The population of the district was estimated at only some three or four
hundred, and appeared to subsist on fish and fern roots. They were
evidently poorer than those seen previously, and their canoes are
described as "mean and almost without ornament." They soon understood the
value of iron, and readily took spike nails when trading, and greatly
preferred "Kersey and Broadcloth to the Otaheite cloth, which show'd them
to be a more sensible people than many of their neighbours," says Cook.
An old man, who had previously paid several visits, complained that one
of the ships boats had fired on and wounded two Maoris, one of whom was
since dead. On enquiry, Cook found that the Master and five petty
officers, fishing beyond the usual limits, were approached by two canoes
in what they thought was a threatening manner and had fired to keep them
off. A second native assured Cook no death had occurred, and enquiry
failed to discover one; but Cook very severely condemned the action of
his men as totally unjustifiable. The ship had, by this time, been
brought into fairly good trim, being clean, freshly caulked and tarred,
and broken ironwork all repaired, so preparations were made to push
through the straits; but, before leaving, two posts were set up, one near
the watering place, and the other on the island, Motuara, on which the
name of the ship and the date of the visit had been cut, and possession
was taken of this land, the king's health being drunk, and the empty
bottle presented to the old man who had complained about the shooting,
and who was greatly delighted with his present; he also was given some
silver threepenny pieces, dated 1763, and spike nails marked with the
broad arrow.
On getting out into the strait a very strong current nearly drove them on
to a small island, the anchor would not hold, and only a change in the
current, probably caused by the tide, saved them. The southern point of
the North Island was named "Cape Pallisser, in honour of my worthy
friend, Captain Pallisser," and the north point of the South Island was
called Cape Campbell, after Captain John Campbell, F.R.S., who had been
one of Cook's strongest supporters as Observer for the Royal Society.
When through the straits Cook was turning south, but finding some of his
people were not quite satisfied as to the part they had passed being an
island, he took a northerly course till Cape Turnagain was recognised,
when he at once went about for the south. Banks says:
"At this time there were two parties on board, one who wished that the
land in sight might, and the others that it might not, prove to be a
continent. I myself have always been most firm in the former wish, though
sorry I am to say that my party is so small that there are none heartily
of it than myself, and one poor midshipman, the rest begin to sigh for
roast beef."
The east coast was followed down to Banks Peninsula, which was at first
thought might be an island, and is marked by dotted lines as doubtful in
Cook's chart, when Gore thought he had seen land to the east, and Cook,
though convinced it was a mistake, ran out to make sure. On returning the
winds proved contrary, and their progress was very slow, but they several
times succeeded in running close in to the land, and from what they could
see concluded it was very barren, with high ranges in the interior and
with very few evidences of inhabitants. A favourable breeze springing up
from the north, they tried to make the most of it, "and by that means
carried away the main topgallant mast and fore topmast steering-sail
boom, but these were soon replaced by others." A high bluff was named
after Admiral Saunders, and near were several bays, "wherein there
appear'd to be anchorage and shelter from South-West, Westerly, and
North-West winds." One of these is now Otago Harbour, the port of
Dunedin.
THE TRAPS.
On 26th February it blew hard from west-south-west, so they stood
southward. They lost the fore-sail, and then the wind moderated, only to
come on with increased fury about daylight, when their main topsail went.
The storm continued for forty-eight hours, and half that time they lay
to, heading south. After being lost for seven days the land was again
sighted near Cape Saunders, and at night a large fire was seen on shore.
On 6th March, being satisfied that he had passed the south point of the
island, Cook altered his course to the west, and nearly ran on some
partially submerged rocks a few miles to the south-east of Stewart
Island, to which he gave the suggestive name of the Traps. They were
again blown off, but picked up the land again at the western end of
Foveaux Straits. Again they had to run off, returning to near Dusky Bay,
which he wished to enter as he thought it looked a likely harbour, but
the difficulty of getting out again and consequent waste of time
prevented him. Off Cape Foulwind--suggestive name--they were again blown
out to sea, but soon recovered their position, and Cook describes the
land: