American Scenes, and Christian Slavery - Ebenezer Davies
February 20.--The scenery was diversified. Hills covered with trees
rose on either side. In the summer, when all is fresh and green, there
must be here scenes of loveliness and grandeur unsurpassed. At present
the country had a cold and winterly aspect. It rained, too, the whole
day. At 3 P.M. we approached New Albany, on the Indiana side. It is a
flourishing place, with from 5,000 to 6,000 inhabitants. Just above
this town are some falls in the Ohio, that can seldom be ascended by
steamers, which therefore pass through a side canal, with locks, formed
(through the superior influence of the slave-power) on the Kentucky or
slave bank of the river. We had to pass through three locks, which have
been very foolishly made too small to receive steamers of the largest
class in the navigation of the Ohio. Ours fortunately, not being of
that class, could "go a-head."
At 5 P.M. we got to Louisville, a city of about 30,000 or 40,000
inhabitants, on the Kentucky side. This city is a great depot for
slaves, whence they are shipped for the New Orleans market. By this
means it has acquired a detestable notoriety.
"A trader was about to start from Louisville, Kentucky," says the
_Anti-Slavery Record_, "with one hundred slaves for New Orleans. Among
them were two women, with infants at the breast. Knowing that these
infants would depreciate the value of the mothers, the trader sold them
for _one dollar each_. Another mother was separated from her sick child
about four or five years old. Her anguish was so great that she
sickened and died before reaching her destination."
Take another instance, on the same authority:--
"Not very long ago, in Lincoln County, Kentucky, a female slave was
sold to a Southern slaver under most afflicting circumstances. She had
at her breast an infant boy three months old. The slaver did not want
the child on any terms. The master sold the mother, and retained the
child. She was hurried away immediately to the depot at Louisville, to
be sent down the river to the Southern market. The last news my
informant had of her was that she was lying _sick_, in the most
miserable condition, her breast having risen, inflamed, and _burst_!"
Let another case, testified by the Rev. C.S. Renshaw, add to the fame
of this _infamous_ city.
"Hughes and Neil traded in slaves down the river: they had bought up a
part of their stock in the upper counties of Kentucky, and brought them
down to Louisville, where the remainder of their drove was in jail
waiting their arrival. Just before the steam-boat put off for the lower
country, two negro women were offered for sale, each of them having a
child at the breast. The traders bought them, took their babes from
their arms, and offered them to the highest bidder; and they were sold
for one dollar a piece, whilst the stricken parents were driven on
board the boats, and in an hour were on their way to the New Orleans
market. You are aware that a young babe diminishes the value of a field
hand in the lower country, while it enhances her value in the breeding
States."
February 21.--Another dreary Sabbath on board. The principal objects of
interest pointed out to us on that day were the residence and the tomb
of the late President Harrison. The latter is a plain brick erection,
in the midst of a field on the top of a hill, about half a mile in the
rear of the former. The recollection of that man, so highly elevated,
and so quickly cut down, could hardly fail to suggest a train of not
unprofitable reflections. He was, I suppose, a moral and well-meaning
man, distinguished for qualities not often to be found in high places;
but I was sorry to be obliged to infer that much of what I had heard
respecting the _religiousness_ of his character wanted confirmation.
At half-past 4 P.M. we arrived at the long-wished-for Cincinnati--the
"Queen of the West." Our voyage from New Orleans had thus occupied
twelve days, during which time we had been boarded and lodged, as well
as conveyed over a space of 1,550 miles, for 12 dollars each, or one
dollar per diem! It was the cheapest, and (apart from the
companionships) the most pleasant mode of travelling we had ever
experienced. As the boat stayed but a couple of hours at Cincinnati, we
had to land without delay. Being a stranger in a strange land, I
inquired for the Congregational minister, and was told that his name
was Boynton. In perambulating the streets in search of his house, I was
pleased to see but one shop open. It was a tailor's, and, as I
afterwards learned, belonged to a Jew, who closed it on Saturdays, the
law of the State compelling all to close their shops one day in the
week. In every street, we were struck with the glorious liberty enjoyed
by the pigs. On all hands, the swinish multitude were seen luxuriating
in unrestricted freedom. Mr. Boynton, who received us kindly, did not
know of any place where we could be accommodated with private board and
lodging, but promised to make inquiry that evening. He was a man of
about forty years of age, wearing on the Sabbath, and even in the
pulpit (as most American ministers do), a black neckerchief, and
shirt-collar turned down over it. That night we had to go to an hotel,
and were recommended to the Denison House, which we found pretty cheap
and comfortable. But the American hotels are not, in point of comfort,
to be compared for a moment to those of Old England. My wife was too
tired to go out in the evening; and unwilling for my own part to close
the Sabbath without going to some place of public worship, I thought I
would try to find the sanctuary of "my brethren--my kinsmen according
to the flesh"--the Welsh. Following the directions I had received, I
arrived at the top of a certain street, when I heard the sound of
sacred song; but I could not tell whether it was Welsh or not, nor
exactly whence it came. As I stood listening, an overgrown boy came by,
of whom I inquired, "Where does that singing come from?"--"I _guess_ it
comes from a church down below there." "Is it a Welsh Church?"--"I
can't tell, but I _guess_ it is." "Well, then," I rejoined, "I _guess_
I will go and see." I turned, and the youth "guessed" he would follow
me. I got to the door. The singing had not ceased. It _was_ Welsh--the
language in which I had first heard "_Am Geidwad i'r Colledig!_"[1] How
interesting in the "Far West" to hear sounds so sweet and so familiar
to my childhood! None but those who have experienced can tell the charm
of such an incident. The minister was in the pulpit. His dress and hair
were very plain, and his complexion was extremely dark. He was
evidently a Welshman: there was no mistake about it: his gravity,
plainness, attitude--all told the fact. I ventured forward, and walked
along to the stove, which to me was an object of agreeable attraction.
Around the stove were two or three chairs. A big aristocratic-looking
Welshman, a sort of a "Blaenor," who occupied one of these chairs,
invited me to take another that was vacant. The eyes of all in the
synagogue were upon me. My "guessing" informant had followed me even
there, though he evidently understood not a word of Welsh. The building
was about 40 feet by 35, without galleries, and was about two-thirds
full. The pulpit was fitted up in the platform style--the "genuine"
American mode. The text was, "How shall we escape, if we neglect so
great a salvation?" The sermon was good and faithful. The audience--the
men on one side of the chapel, and the women on the other--did not
excite much interest. The men, especially, were among the worst hearers
I had ever seen. I felt ashamed of my countrymen. The spitting was
incessant, and attended with certain unmentionable circumstances which
render it most disgusting and offensive. What a contrast to my own
clean and comely congregation of black and coloured people in New
Amsterdam! In about twenty minutes after the preacher had begun his
sermon, one-half of the men had their heads down, resting on both arms
folded on the tops of the pews before them. Whether they were asleep or
not, the attitude was that of deep sleep. This behaviour was grossly
rude,--to say nothing of the apathetic state of mind which it
indicated. I wondered how the preacher could get on at all, with such
hearers before him. I am sorry to say that the Welsh too frequently
manifest a great want of decorum and devotion in their religious
assemblies. This is telling, and will tell, against dissent in the
Principality.
[Footnote 1: Literally, "Of a Saviour for the lost."]
LETTER XVI.
Stay at Cincinnati (continued)--Close of the Welsh Service--The
Governor of Ohio and his Relatives--The "Black Laws"--Governor Bebb's
Hostility to them--Dr. Weed and American Versatility--Private
Lodgings--Introduction to Dr. Beecher and others--A Peep at a
Democratic Meeting.
The Welsh service being ended, my big friend on the next chair asked
me, in the same language, if I was a _llafarwr_ (preacher). I answered
him in the usual Welsh phrase, "_Byddaf yn dweyd ychydig weithiau_,"
which means that I did a little in that way. On learning this, he
desired my "_cyhoeddiad_" (publication--another Welsh phrase) to preach
there some night during the coming week; and he wished it to be
announced there and then, to which I would not consent. He introduced
me to Mr. Jones, the minister. After most of the congregation were
gone, a groupe, including my big friend and Mr. Jones, collected around
me, and most earnestly pressed for my "publication." I told them I had
never been a Welsh preacher, that it was nearly five-and-twenty years
since I had left the Principality, and that, moreover, _I could not_
preach at all to men who put down their heads in the sluggish and
sleepy manner in which most of their men had done that night. "Oh! but
they won't do so when you, a stranger, preach," was the reply. "Then,"
I said, "there must be a great want of true devotion among them, if
that would make all the difference." However, being much pressed, I
promised at last to give them, before I left the city, a little
missionary information in Welsh.
The name of my big friend was Bebb, a near relative, as I subsequently
learned, of His Excellency W. Bebb, the present Governor of the State
of Ohio. The history of this Governor deserves a passing notice. He is
the nephew of the late Rev. John Roberts, of Llanbrynmair, a man of
great worth and usefulness, whose praise is in all the Congregational
Churches of North Wales. Mr. Roberts, when a young man, joined the
Church at Llanbrynmair, began to preach under its sanction, became its
pastor, sustained that office for thirty-six years, and is succeeded by
his two excellent sons, Samuel and John, as co-pastors! Towards the
close of last century, Mr. Roberts's sister, married to a Mr. Bebb,
emigrated to America; as did also his brother George, who still
survives, and of whom Dr. Matheson gives an interesting account in the
seventh letter of the second volume of "Reed and Matheson's Narrative,"
calling him "_Judge_ Roberts, the _Pastor_ of the Congregational
Church!" at Ebensburg, in Pennsylvania.
Mrs. Bebb was soon left a widow, with two sons, William and Evan. But
"the Judge of the widow" and "the Father of the fatherless" did not
forsake her. She is a woman of a strong mind and great piety, and a
thorough hater of slavery and oppression in all their forms. Her own
principles she endeavoured to instil into the minds of her sons,
sparing no efforts to fit them for acting a useful and honourable part
in society. William was brought up to the law, and Evan to commerce.
And now, in the evening of her days, the pious old Welsh-woman has the
gratification of seeing Evan an enterprising and successful merchant in
New York, while William enjoys the highest honour that his
fellow-citizens of Ohio can confer upon him! He is the Governor of a
territory of nearly 40,000 square miles, and a population of 2,000,000.
Mr. Jones, the minister, is intimately acquainted with Mrs. Bebb, who
carefully instructed her distinguished son in the good old language of
Wales, so that, at the time of his recent canvass for office, he was
able to address the Cambrian portion of his constituency in their
mother tongue.
On entering into office, he declared his determined opposition to the
"black laws" of Ohio. Those "black laws" are black indeed. They are the
foul blot of this otherwise honoured State. One of them is intended to
prevent the coloured citizens of other States from removing to Ohio. It
was enacted in 1807, and is to this effect,--that within twenty days
after the entrance of an emigrant into the State, he is to find two
freehold sureties in the sum of 500 dollars for his _good behaviour_,
and likewise for his _maintenance_, should he, at any future period, be
unable to maintain himself. The Legislature well knew that it would be
utterly impossible, generally speaking, for a _black_ or _coloured_
stranger to find such securities. In 1800 there were only 337 free
blacks in the territory; but in 1830, notwithstanding the "black laws,"
there were 9,500. A large portion of them entered in entire ignorance
of this iniquitous law, and some perhaps in bold defiance of it. But it
has by no means remained a dead letter. In 1829 a very general effort
was made to enforce it,--about 1,000 free blacks being driven from the
State, to take refuge in the more free and Christian country of Canada.
Sir J. Colebrook, the Governor of Upper Canada, said to the coloured
deputation that waited upon him, "Tell the _Republicans_ on your side
of the line that we Royalists do not know men by their colour. Should
you come to us, you will be entitled to all the privileges of the rest
of His Majesty's subjects." A noble sentiment! and one calculated to
make a "_Britisher_" proud of his country, particularly since the
abolition of slavery in our other colonies. At the time these people
were thus driven away, the State of Ohio contained but 23 inhabitants
to one square mile!
In 1838 official notice was given to the inhabitants of the town of
Fairfield, in Ohio, that all "black or mulatto persons" residing there
were to comply with the requirements of the law of 1807 within twenty
days, or it would be enforced against them. The proclamation addresses
the _white_ inhabitants in the following remarkable terms: "Whites,
look out! If any person or persons _employing_ any black or mulatto
person, contrary to the 3rd section of this law, you may look out for
the breakers!"
At the very time I was in Ohio an attempt was made, in Mercer County,
to eject by force a number of inoffensive black people. Originally
slaves in Virginia, they had been liberated by the will of their late
master, and located on a suitable quantity of land which he had secured
for them. But the magnanimous and liberty-boasting Americans would not
allow them to enjoy their little settlement unmolested; and it was
extremely doubtful whether the Governor would be able to protect them
from outrage.
In 1839 a number of coloured inhabitants of Ohio addressed a respectful
petition to the Legislature, praying for the removal of certain legal
disabilities under which they were labouring. The answer was a denial,
not merely of the _prayer_ of the petition, but of the very _right_ of
petition! "Resolved, that the blacks and mulattoes who may be residents
within this State have no constitutional right to present their
petitions to the General Assembly for any purpose whatsoever; and that
any reception of such petitions on the part of the General Assembly is
a mere act of privilege or policy, and not imposed by any expressed or
implied power of the Constitution!"
But the _blackest_ of these black laws is the following: "That no black
or mulatto person or persons shall hereafter be permitted to be sworn,
or give evidence in any court of record or elsewhere in this State, in
any cause depending, or matter of controversy, when either party to the
same is a _white_ person; or in any prosecution of the State against
any _white_ person!"
Under such a law a white man may with perfect impunity defraud or abuse
a negro to any extent, provided that he is careful to avoid the
presence of any of his own caste at the execution of his contract, or
the commission of his crime!
To these "black laws" Governor Bebb has avowed an uncompromising
hostility; but the first session of the State Legislature after his
election had just closed, and the black laws were still in force. Mr.
Bebb was not sufficiently supported in his just and humane intentions
to enable him to carry those intentions out. I was assured, however, by
those who knew him well, that he was only "biding his time," being as
determined as ever to wipe away from the statute-book every remnant of
these foul enactments. If he succeed, the poor old Welsh-woman, in her
obscurity and widowhood, will have rendered an important service to the
cause of humanity and justice. Let mothers think of this, and be
encouraged!
The day after our arrival in Cincinnati, being the 22nd of February, we
obtained, by the aid of Dr. Weed (one of Mr. Boynton's deacons), a
suitable private lodging. Dr. Weed in early life studied for the
medical profession, and graduated in physic. Afterwards he spent some
years as a missionary among the Indians. Now he is a bookseller,
publisher, and stationer in Cincinnati, affording an illustration of
that versatility for which the Americans are distinguished. "Men are to
be met with," says M. de Tocqueville, (and the present writer has
himself seen many instances,) "who have successively been barristers,
farmers, merchants, ministers of the Gospel, and physicians. If the
American be less perfect in each craft than the European, at least
there is scarcely any trade with which he is utterly unacquainted." I
have heard of a man in New York, who, having tried the ministry and
completely failed, wisely judged that that was not the way in which he
could best serve God, and turned to commerce. He is now a substantial
merchant, and supports five other men to preach the Gospel; each of
whom, he is wont to say, does it much better than he could ever have
done.
The lodging which Dr. Weed kindly found us was at the house of the
Misses M'Pherson, five Quaker sisters, living together. It was clean
and respectable,--the cheapest and most comfortable lodging we had
hitherto met with. The table was bountifully supplied with excellent
and well-cooked provisions; for which the charge was only 4 dollars
each per week, and half-a-dollar for fuel, making altogether only 9
dollars for us both. Of the kindness and hospitality of these ladies we
shall always retain a grateful remembrance.
In the afternoon I had the honour of being introduced to Dr. Beecher,
Dr. Stowe, Professor Allen, and several other Presbyterian ministers of
the New School. They were assembled for fraternal intercourse in the
vestry of one of the "churches." I was struck with the sallowness of
their complexions, and the want of polish in their manners. Dr. Beecher
invited me to go up some day to see Lane Seminary, about two miles off.
To this invitation I readily acceded. I was greatly interested in this
veteran, of whose fame I had so often heard.
February 23rd.--In the evening, I went to a meeting of the Democratic
party in the town-hall, thinking it would afford me a good opportunity
for observing American manners. The place was full; and when I arrived,
a gentleman was addressing the meeting with great vehemence of tone and
gesture. His speech consisted of innumerable changes rung on the
sentiment--"There must be a vigorous prosecution of the war against
Mexico." But I must reserve any further account of this meeting for my
next letter.
LETTER XVII.
Stay at Cincinnati (continued)--The Democratic Meeting--A Visit to Lane
Seminary--"Public Declamation"--Poem on War--Essay on Education.
In resuming my notice of the Democratic meeting, let me observe that
the Democratic party in America is not very reputable. It is the war
party, the pro-slavery party, the mob party, and, at present, the
dominant party,--the party, in fine, of President Polk. It had just
been aroused to the highest pitch of indignation, by a telling speech
delivered in Congress against the Mexican War by Thomas Corwin, Esq.,
one of the Ohio senators. This meeting, then, was intended as a
demonstration in favour of Polk and his policy; but it turned out a
miserable failure.
When the blustering speaker who "had the floor" when I entered sat
down, the "president" (for they do not say the chairman) rose, amidst a
tremendous storm of favourite names, uttered simultaneously by all
present at the top of their voices, and, as soon as he could be heard,
said it had been moved and seconded that So-and-so, Esq., be requested
to address the meeting: those who were in favour of that motion were to
say "Ay,"--those against it, "No." One great "Ay" was then uttered by
the mass, and a few "Noes" were heard. The "_Ayes"_ had it. But an
unforeseen difficulty occurred. So-and-so, Esq., either was not there,
or would not speak. Amidst deafening noise again, the president rose,
and said it had been moved and seconded that John Brough, Esq., be
requested to address the meeting. "Ay"--"No;" but the "Ayes" had it.
"Now, John Brough," said a droll-looking Irishman, apparently a
hod-carrier, who was at my elbow,--
"Now, John Brough,
Out with the stuff."
Here was Paddy on the western side of the Allegany Mountains, with his
native accent and native wit as fresh and unimpaired as if he had but
just left his green isle, and landed on one of the quays at Liverpool.
But John Brough again declined the honour conferred upon him! Then it
was moved and seconded and "ayed" that So-and-so, Esq., be requested to
address the meeting, but _he_ also was not forthcoming! _Nil
desperandum_. It was moved and seconded and "ayed" that--Callaghan,
Esq., be requested to address the meeting. After some hesitation, and a
reference to his own "proverbial modesty," he proceeded to foam, and
stamp, and thump, and bluster for "the vigorous prosecution of the
war," till the American eagle should "stretch his wings over the halls
of the Montezumas." At this stage of the proceedings, the spitting and
smoke had become so offensive that I was compelled to retire; and I did
so with no very high notions of the intelligence and respectability of
the American democrats.
The next day being fine and frosty, and the roads hard, I set off in
the morning to pay my intended visit to Lane Seminary. I found it a
long two miles, all up hill. The seminary itself, the building in which
the students are accommodated, is a large plain brick edifice, four
stories high, besides the basement-story, and has very much the
appearance of a small Lancashire factory. It is 100 feet long by about
40 feet wide, and contains 84 rooms for students. The situation is
pleasant, and at a nice distance from the roadside. A large bell was
being tolled awkwardly when I arrived. It was 11 o'clock A.M. I found
the front door thrown wide open, with every indication of its being
entered by all comers without the least ceremony--not even that of
wiping the shoes. There was neither door-bell nor knocker, scraper nor
mat; and the floor of the lobby seemed but slightly acquainted with the
broom,--to say nothing of the scrubbing-brush. It looked like the floor
of a corn or provision warehouse. I had no alternative but to venture
in. Immediately after, there entered a young man with a fowling-piece,
whom before I had seen at a little distance watching the movements of a
flock of wild pigeons. I took him for a sportsman; but he was a young
divine! I asked him if Dr. Beecher was about. He replied that he
guessed not, but he would be at the lecture-room in a few minutes, for
the bell that had just tolled was a summons to that room. "Does the
Doctor, then," said I, "deliver a lecture this morning?"--"No, it is
_declamation_ this morning." "Is it such an exercise," I continued, "as
a stranger may attend?"--"Oh, yes!" he replied; "it is _public_
declamation." He then directed me to the lecture-room. It was across
the yard, and under the chapel belonging to the institution. This
chapel is a very neat building, after the model of a Grecian temple,
having the roof in front carried out and supported by six
well-proportioned columns in the form of a portico. In a part of the
basement-story was the lecture-room in question. The students were
mustering. By-and-by Dr. Stowe entered. He invited me to take a chair
by his side, on a kind of platform. Professor Allen then came in, and
after him Dr. Beecher. The exercise began with a short prayer by Mr.
Allen. He then called upon a Mr. Armstrong, one of the students, to
ascend the platform. The young man obeyed; and, somewhat abruptly and
vehemently, rehearsed from memory a Poem on War. Suiting the action to
the words, he began--
"_On_--to the glorious conflict--ON!"
It quite startled me! Soon afterwards I heard,--