Travels in Morocco, Vol. 2. - James Richardson
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TRAVELS IN MOROCCO,
BY THE LATE JAMES RICHARDSON,
AUTHOR OF "A MISSION TO CENTRAL AFRICA,"
"TRAVELS IN THE DESERT OF SAHARA," &C.
EDITED BY HIS WIDOW.
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IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.
CONTENTS OF THE SECOND VOLUME.
CHAPTER I.
The Mogador Jewesses.--Disputes between the Jew and the Moor.--Melancholy
Scenes.--The Jews of the Atlas.--Their Religion.--Beautiful Women.--The
Four Wives.--Statues discovered.--Discrepancy of age of married people.--
Young and frail fair ones.--Superstition respecting Salt.--White
Brandy.--Ludicrous Anecdote.
CHAPTER II.
The Maroquine dynasties.--Family of the Shereefian Monarchs.--Personal
appearances and character of Muley Abd Errahman.--Refutation of the
charge of human sacrifices against the Moorish Princes.--Genealogy of
the reigning dynasty of Morocco.--The tyraufc Yezeed, (half
Irish).--Muley Suleiman, the "The Shereeff of Shereefs."--Diplomatic
relations of the Emperor of Morocco with European Powers.--Muley Ismael
enamoured with the French Princess de Conti.--Rival diplomacy of France
and England near the Maroquine Court.--Mr. Hay's correspondence with
this Court on the Slave-trade.--Treaties between Great Britain and
Morocco; how defective and requiring amendment.--Unwritten engagements.
CHAPTER III.
The two different aspects by which the strength and resources of the
Empire of Morocco may be viewed or estimated.--Native appellation of
Morocco.--Geographical limits of this country.--Historical review of the
inhabitants of North Africa, and the manner in which this region was
successively peopled and conquered.--The distinct varieties of the human
race, as found in Morocco.--Nature of the soil and climate of this
country.--Derem, or the Atlas chain of mountains.--Natural
products.--The Shebbel, or Barbary salmon; different characters of
exports of the Northern and Southern provinces.--The Elaeonderron
Argan.--Various trees and plants.--Mines.--The Sherb-Errech, or
Desert-horse.
CHAPTER IV.
Division of Morocco into kingdoms or States, and zones or regions.--
Description of the towns and cities on the Maroquine coasts of the
Mediterranean and Atlantic waters.--The Zafarine Isles.--Melilla.--
Alhucemas.--Penon de Velez.--Tegaza.--Provinces of Rif and Garet.--
Tetouan.--Ceuta.--Arzila.--El Araish.--Mehedia.--Salee.--Rabat.--
Fidallah.--Dar-el-Beidah.--Azamour.--Mazagran.--Saffee.--Waladia.
CHAPTER V.
Description of the Imperial Cities or Capitals of the Empire.--
El-Kesar.--Mequinez.--Fez.--Morocco.--The province of Tafilett, the
birth-place of the present dynasty of the Shereefs.
CHAPTER VI.
Description of the towns and cities of the Interior, and those of the
Kingdom of Fez.--Seisouan.--Wazen.--Zawiat.--Muley Dris.--Sofru.--
Dubdu.--Taza.--Oushdah.--Agla.--Nakbila.--Meshra.--Khaluf.--The Places
distinguished in. Morocco, including Sous, Draka, and Tafilett.--Tefza.
--Pitideb.--Ghuer.--Tyijet.--Bulawan.--Soubeit--Meramer.--El-Medina.--
Tagodast.--Dimenet.--Aghmat.--Fronga.--Tedmest.--Tekonlet.--Tesegdelt.--
Tagawost.--Tedsi Beneali.--Beni Sabih.--Tatta and Akka.--Mesah or
Assah.--Talent.--Shtouka.--General observations on the statistics of
population.--The Maroquine Sahara.
CHAPTER VII.
London Jew-boys.--Excursion to the Emperor's garden, and the Argan
Forests.--Another interview with the Governor of Mogador on the
Anti-Slavery Address.--Opinion of the Moors on the Abolition of Slavery.
CHAPTER VIII.
El-Jereed, the Country of Dates.--Its hard soil.--Salt Lake. Its vast
extent.--Beautiful Palm-trees.--The Dates, a staple article of Food.--
Some Account of the Date-Palm.--Made of Culture.--Delicious Beverage.--
Tapping the Palm.--Meal formed from the Dates.--Baskets made of the
Branches of the Tree.--Poetry of the Palm.--Its Irrigation.--
Palm-Groves.--Collection of Tribute by the "Bey of the Camp."
CHAPTER IX.
Tour in the Jereed of Captain Balfour and Mr. Reade.--Sidi Mohammed.--
Plain of Manouba.--Tunis.--Tfeefleeah.--The Bastinado.--Turkish
Infantry.--Kairwan.--Sidi Amour Abeda.--Saints.--A French Spy--
Administration of Justice.--The Bey's presents.--The Hobara.--Ghafsa.
Hot streams containing Fish.--Snakes.--Incantation.--Moorish Village.
CHAPTER X.
Toser.--The Bey's Palace.--Blue Doves.--The town described.--Industry
of the People.--Sheikh Tahid imprisoned and punished.--Leghorn.--The
Boo-habeeba.--A Domestic Picture.--The Bey's Diversions.--The Bastinado.--
Concealed Treasure.--Nefta.--The Two Saints.--Departure of Santa Maria.--
Snake-charmers.--Wedyen.--Deer Stalking.--Splendid view of the Sahara.--
Revolting Acts.--Qhortabah.--Ghafsa.--Byrlafee.--Mortality among the
Camels--Aqueduct.--Remains of Udina.--Arrival at Tunis.--The Boab's
Wives.--Curiosities.--Tribute Collected.--Author takes leave of the
Governor of Mogador, and embarks for England.--Rough Weather.--Arrival
in London.
APPENDIX.
TRAVELS IN MOROCCO.
CHAPTER I.
The Mogador Jewesses.--Disputes between the Jew and the Moor.--Melancholy
Scenes.--The Jews of the Atlas.--Their Religion.--Beautiful Women.--The
Four Wives.--Statues discovered.--Discrepancy of age of married people.--
Young and frail fair ones.--Superstition respecting Salt.--White
Brandy.--Ludicrous Anecdote.
Notwithstanding the imbecile prejudices of the native Barbary Jews, such
of them who adopt European habits, or who mix with European merchants,
are tolerably good members of society, always endeavouring to restrain
their own peculiarities. The European Jewesses settled in Mogador, are
indeed the belles of society, and attend all the balls (such as they
are). The Jewess sooner forgets religious differences than the Jew, and
I was told by a Christian lady, it would be a dangerous matter for a
Christian gentleman to make an offer of marriage to a Mogador Jewess,
unless in downright earnest; as it would be sure to be accepted.
Monsieur Delaport, Consul of France, was the first official person who
brought prominently forward the native and other Jews into the European
society of this place, and since then, these Jews have improved in their
manners, and increased their respectability. The principal European Jews
are from London, Gibraltar, and Marseilles. Many native Jews have
attempted to wear European clothes; and a European hat, or coat, is now
the rage among native Jewesses, who all aspire to get a husband wearing
either. Such are elements of the progress of the Jewess population in
this part of the world, and there is no doubt their position has been
greatly ameliorated within the last half century, or since the time of
Ali Bey, who thus describes their wretched condition in his days.
"Continual disputes arise between the Jew and the Moor; when the Jew is
wrong, the Moor takes his own satisfaction, and if the Jew be right, he
lodges a complaint with the judge, who always decides in favour of the
Mussulman. I have seen the Mahometan children amuse themselves by
beating little Jews, who durst not defend themselves. When a Jew passes
a mosque, he is obliged to take off his slippers, or shoes; he must do
the same when he passes the house of the Kaed, the Kady, or any
Mussulman of distinction. At Fez, and in some other towns, they are
obliged to walk barefooted." Ali Bey mentions other vexations and
oppressions, and adds, "When I saw the Jews were so ill-treated and
vexed in every way, I asked them why they did not go to another country.
They answered that they could not do so, because they were slaves of the
Sultan." Again he says, "As the Jews have a particular skill in
thieving, they indemnify themselves for the ill-treatment they receive
from the Moors, by cheating them daily."
Jewesses are exempt from taking off their slippers, or sandals, when
passing the mosques. The late Emperor, Muley Suleiman, [1] professed to
be a rigidly exact Mussulman, and considered it very indecent, and a
great scandal that Jewesses, some of them, like most women of this
country, of enormous dimensions, should be allowed to disturb the decent
frame of mind of pious Mussulmen, whilst entering the threshold of the
house of prayer, by the sad exhibitions of these good ladies stooping
down and shewing their tremendous calves, when in the act of taking off
their shoes before passing the mosques. For such reasons, Jewesses are
now privileged and exempted from the painful necessity of walking
barefoot in the streets.
The policy of the Court in relation to the Jews continually fluctuates.
Sometimes, the Emperor thinks they ought to be treated like the rest of
his subjects; at other times, he seems anxious to renew in all its
vigour the system described by Ali Bey. Hearing that the Jews of
Tangier, on returning from Gibraltar, would often adopt the European
dress, and so, by disguising themselves, be treated like Christians and
Europeans, he ordered all these would-be Europeans forthwith to be
undressed, and to resume their black turban.
Alas, how were all these Passover, Tabernacle and wedding festivals,
these happy and joyous days of the Jewish society of Mogador, changed on
the bombardment of that city! What became of the rich and powerful
merchants, the imperial vassals of commerce with their gorgeous wives
bending under the weight of diamonds, pearls, and precious gems, during
that sad and unexpected period? The newspapers of the day recorded the
melancholy story. Many of the Jews were massacred, or buried underneath
the ruins of the city; their wives subjected to plunder; the rest were
left wandering naked and starving on the desolate sandy coast of the
Atlantic, or hidden in the mountains, obtaining a momentary respite from
the rapacious fury of the savage Berbers and Arabs.
It is well known that, while the French bombarded Tangier and Mogador
from without, the Berber and Arab tribes, aided by the _canaille_ of the
Moors, plundered the city from within. Several of the Moorish rabble
declared publicly, and with the greatest cowardice and villainous
effrontery, "When the French come to destroy Mogador, we shall go and
pillage the Jews' houses, strip the women of their ornaments, and then
escape to the mountains from the pursuit of the Christians." These
threats they faithfully executed; but, by a just vengeance, they were
pillaged in turn, for the Berbers not only plundered the Jews
themselves, but the Moors who had escaped from the city laden with their
booty.
It is to be hoped that a better day is dawning for North African Jews.
The Governments of France and England can do much for them in Morocco.
The Jews of the Atlas formed the subject of some of Mr. Davidson's
literary labours; I have made further inquiries and shall give the
reader some account of them, adding that portion of Mr. Davidson's
information which was borne out by further investigation. The Atlas Jews
are physically, if not morally, superior to their brethren who reside
among the Moors. They are dispersed over the Atlas ranges, and have all
the characteristics of mountaineers. They enjoy, like their neighbours,
the Berbers and Shelouhs, a species of quasi-independence of the
Imperial authority, but they usually attach themselves to certain Berber
chieftains who protect them, and whose standards they follow.
These are the only Jews in Mahometan countries of whom I have heard as
bearing arms. They have, however, their own Sheiks, to whose
jurisdiction all domestic matters are referred. They wear the same
attire as the mountaineers, and are not distinguishable from them, they
do not address the Moors by the term of respect and title "Sidi," but in
the same way as the Moors and Arabs when they accost each other. They
speak the Shelouh language.
Mr. Davidson mentions some curious circumstances about these Jews, and
of their having a city beyond the Atlas, where three or four thousand
are living in perfect freedom, and cultivating the soil, which they have
possessed since the time of Solomon. The probability is that Mr.
Davidson's informant refers to the Jews of the Oasis of Sahara, where
there certainly are some families of Jews living in comparative freedom
and independence.
As to the peculiarities of the religion of the Atlas Jews, they are said
not to have the Pentateuch and the law in the same order as Jews
generally. They are unacquainted with Ezra, or Christ; they did not go
to Babylon at the captivity, but were dispersed over Africa at that
period. They are a species of Caraaites, or Jewish Protestants. Shadai
is the name which they apply to the Supreme Being, when speaking of him.
Their written law begins by stating that the world was many thousand
years old when the present race of men was formed, which, curiously
enough, agrees with the researches of modern geology. The present race
of men are the joint offspring of different and distinct human species.
The deluge is not mentioned by them. God, it is said, appeared to
Ishmael in a dream, and told him he must separate from Isaac, and go to
the desert, where he would make him a great nation. There would ever
after be enmity between the two races, as at this day there is the
greatest animosity between the Jews and Mahometans.
The great nucleus of these Shelouh Jews is in _Jebel Melge_, or the vast
ridge of the Atlas capped with eternal snows; and they hold
communications with the Jews of Ait Mousa, Frouga or Misfuva. They
rarely descend to the plains or cities of the empire, and look upon the
rest of the Jews of this country as heretics. Isolation thus begets
enmity and mistrust, as in other cases. A few years ago, a number came
to Mogador, and were not at all pleased with their visit, finding fault
with everything among their brethren. These Jewish mountaineers are
supposed to be very numerous. In their homes, they are inaccessible. So
they live in a wild independence, professing a creed as free as their
own mountain airs. God, who made the hills, made likewise man's freedom
to abide therein. Before taking leave of the Maroquine Israelites, I
must say something of their personal appearance. Both in Tangier and
Mogador, I was fortunate enough to be acquainted with families, who
could boast of the most perfect and classic types of Jewish female
loveliness. Alas, that these beauties should be only charming _animals_,
their minds and affections being left uncultivated, or converted into
caves of unclean and tormenting passions. The Jewesses, in general,
until they become enormously stout and weighed down with obesity, are of
extreme beauty. Most of them have fair complexions; their rose and
jasmine faces, their pure wax-like delicate features, and their
exceedingly expressive and bewitching eyes, would fascinate the most
fastidious of European connoisseurs of female beauty.
But these Israelitish ladies, recalling the fair image of Rachel in the
Patriarchal times of Holy Writ, and worthy to serve as models for a
Grecian sculptor, are treated with savage disdain by the churlish Moors,
and sometimes are obliged to walk barefoot and prostrate themselves
before their ugly negress concubines. The male infants of Jews are
engaging and goodlooking when young; but, as they grow up, they become
ordinary; and Jews of a certain age, are decidedly and most disgustingly
ugly. It is possible that the degrading slavery in which they usually
live, their continued habits of cringing servility, by which the
countenance acquires a sinister air and fiendishly cunning smirk, may
cause this change in their appearance. But what contrasts we had of the
beauty of countenance and form in the Jewish society of Mogador! You
frequently see a youthful woman, nay a girl of exquisite beauty and
delicacy of features, married to an old wretched ill-looking fellow of
some sixty or seventy years of age, tottering over the grave, or an
incurable invalid. To render them worse-looking, whilst the women may
dress in any and the gayest colours, the men wear a dark blue and black
turban and dress, and though this is prescribed as a badge of
oppression, they will often assume it when they may attire themselves in
white and other livelier colours. However, men get used to their misery,
and hug their chains.
The Jews, at times, though but very rarely, avail themselves of their
privilege of four wives granted them in Mahometan countries, and a nice
mess they make of it. I knew a Jew of this description in Tunis. He was
a lively, jocose fellow, with a libidinous countenance, singing always
some catch of a song. He was a silk-mercer, and pretty well off. His
house was small, and besides a common _salle-a-manger_, divided into
four compartments for his four wives, each defending her room with the
ferocity of a tigress. Two of them were of his own age, about fifty, and
two not more than twenty. The two elder ones, I was told by his
neighbours, were entirely abandoned by the husband, and the two younger
ones were always bickering and quarrelling, as to which of them should
have the greater favour of their common tyrant; the house a scene of
tumult, disorder and indecency. Amongst the whole of the wives, there
was only one child, a boy, of course an immense pet, a little surly
wretch; his growth smothered, his health nearly ruined, by the
overattentions of the four women, whom he kicked and pelted when out of
humour.
This little imp was the fit type, or interpretation of the presiding
genius of polygamy. I once visited this happy family, this biting satire
on domestic bliss and the beauty of the harem of the East. The women
were all sour, and busy at work, weaving or spinning cotton, "Do you
work for your husband?" I asked,
_The women_.--"Thank Rabbi, no."
_Traveller_.--"What do you do with your money?"
_The women_.--"Spend it ourselves."
_Traveller_.--"How do you like to have only one husband among you four?"
_The women_.--"Pooh! is it not the will of God?"
_Traveller_.--"Whose boy is that?"
_The women_.--"It belongs to us all."
_Traveller_.--"Have you no other children?"
_The women_.--"Our husband is good for no more than that."
Whilst I was talking to these angelic creatures, their beloved lord was
quietly stuffing capons, without hearing our polite discourse. A
European Jew who knew the native society of Jews well, represents
domestic bliss to be a mere phantom, and scarcely ever thought of, or
sought after. Poor human nature!
I took a walk round the suburbs one morning, whilst a strong wind was
bringing the locusts towards the coast, which fell upon us like
hailstones. Young locusts frequently crowd upon the neighbouring hills
in thousands and tens of thousands. They are little green things. No one
knows whence they come and whither they go. These are not destructive.
Indeed, unless swarms of locusts appear darkening the sky, and full
grown ones, they do not permanently damage the country. The wind usually
disperses them; they rarely take a long flight, except impelled by a
violent gale. Arabs attempt to destroy locusts by digging pits into
which they may fall. This is merely playing with them. Jews fry them in
oil and salt, and sell them as we sell shrimps, the taste of which they
resemble.
On my return, I passed a Mooress, or rather a Mauritanian Venus, who was
so stout that she had fallen down, and could not get up. A mule was
fetched to carry her home. But the Moor highly relishes these enormous
lumps of fat, according to the standard beauty laid down by the
talebs--"Four things in a woman should be ample, the lower part of the
back, the thighs, the calves of the legs and the knees."
Some time ago, there were discovered at Malta various rude statues of
women very ample in the lower part of the "back," supposed to be of
Libyan origin, so that stout ladies have been the choicest of the
fashion for ages past; the fattening of women, like so many capons and
turkeys, begins when they are betrothed.
They then swallow three times a day regular boluses of paste, and are
not allowed to take exercise. By the time marriage takes place, they are
in a tolerable good condition, not unlike Smithfield fattened heifers.
The lady of one of the European merchants being very thin, the Moors
frequently asked her husband how it was, and whether she had enough to
eat, hinting broadly that he starved her.
On the other hand, two or three of the merchant's wives were exceedingly
stout, and of course great favourites with the men folks of this city.
The discrepancies of age, in married people, is most unnatural and
disgusting; whilst the merchants were at Morocco, a little girl of nine
years of age was married to a man upwards of fifty. Ten and eleven is a
common age for girls to be married. Much has been said of the reverence
of children for their parents in the East, and tribes of people
migrating therefrom, and the fifth commandment embodies the sentiment of
the Eastern world. But there is little of this in Mogador; a European
Jewess, who knows all the respectable Jewish and many of the Moorish
families, assured me that children make their aged parents work for
them, as long as the poor creatures can. "Honour thy father and thy
mother," is quite as much neglected here as in Europe. However, there is
some difference. The indigent Moors and Jews maintain their aged parents
in their own homes, and we English Christian shut up ours in the Union
Bastiles.
To continue this domestic picture, the marriage settlements, especially
among the Jews, are ticklish and brittle things, as to money or other
mercenary arrangements.
A match is often broken off, because a lamp of the value of four dollars
has been substituted for one of the value of twenty dollars, which was
first promised on the happy day of betrothal.
Indeed, nearly all marriages here are matters of sale and barter. Love
is out of the question, he never flutters his purple wings over the
bridal bed of Mogador. A Jewish or Moorish girl having placed before her
a rich, old ugly man, of mean and villanous character, of three score
years and upwards, and by his side, a handsome youth of blameless
character and amiable manners, will not hesitate a moment to prefer the
former. As affairs of intrigue and simple animal enjoyment are the great
business of life, the ways and means, in spite of Moorish and Mahometan
jealousy, as strong as death, by which these young and frail beauties
indulge in forbidden conversations, are innumerable. Although the Moors
frequently relate romantic legends of lovely innocent brides, who had
never seen any other than the faces of their father, or of married
ladies, who never raised the veil from off their faces, except to
receive their own husbands, and seem to extol such chastity and
seclusion; they are too frequently found indulging in obscene
imaginations, tempting and seducing the weaker sex from the path of
virtue and honour. So that, if women are unchaste here, or elsewhere,
men are the more to blame: if woman goes one step wrong, men drag her
two more. Men corrupt women, and then punish her for being corrupt,
depriving them of their natural and unalienable rights.
Salt in Africa as in Europe is a domestic superstition. A Jewess, one
morning, in bidding adieu to her friends, put her fingers into a
salt-cellar, and took from it a large pinch of salt, which her friend
told me afterwards was to preserve her from the evil one. Salt is also
used for a similar important purpose, when, during the night, a person
is obliged to pass from one room into another in the dark. It would be
an entertaining task to collect the manifold superstitions in different
parts of the world, respecting this essential ingredient of human food.
The habit of drinking white brandy, stimulates the immorality of this
Maroquine society. The Jews are the great factors of this _acqua
ardiente_, its Spanish and general name. Government frequently severely
punishes them for making it; but they still persevere in producing this
incentive to intoxication and crime. In all parts of the world, the most
degraded classes are the factors of the means of vice for the higher
orders of society. Moors drink it under protest, that it is not the
juice of the grape. On the Sabbath, the Jewish families are all flushed,
excited, and tormented by this evil spirit; but when the highest
enjoyments of intellect are denied to men, they must and will seek the
lower and beastly gratifications.
Friend Cohen came in one afternoon, and related several anecdotes of the
Maroquine Court. When Dr. Brown was attending the Sultan, the Vizier
managed to get hold of his cocked hat, and placing it upon his head,
strutted about in the royal gardens. Whilst performing this feat before
several attendants, the Sultan suddenly made his appearance in the midst
of them. The minister seeing him, fell down in a fright and a fit. His
Imperial Highness beckoned to the minister in such woful plight, to
pacify himself, and put his cloak before his mouth to prevent any one
from seeing him laugh at the minister, which he did most immoderately.
Cohen, who is a quack, was once consulted on a case of the harem. Cohen
pleaded ignorance, God had not given him the wit; he could do nothing
for the patient of his Imperial Highness. This was very politic of
Cohen, for another quack, a Moor, had just been consulted, and had had
his head taken off, for not being successful in the remedies he
prescribed. There would not be quite so much medicine administered among
us, weak, cracky, crazy mortals, in this cold damp clime, if such an
alternative was proposed to our practitioners.