Explorations in Australia - John Forrest
I have, etc.,
(Signed) MALCOLM FRASER, Surveyor-General.
Governor Weld, however, decided that it might be better to postpone my
expedition, as it would not be advisable to appear to enter into
competition with the other colony; besides which it might be of
considerable advantage to wait and avail ourselves of the results of any
discoveries that might be made by the South Australian explorers. Another
reason for delay was that I was required to conduct a survey of
considerable importance, which it was desirable should be completed
before undertaking the new expedition.
It may assist my readers to understand the references in the latter part
of my Journal if I state that in April, 1873, Mr. Gosse, one of the South
Australian explorers, quitted the telegraph line about forty miles south
of Mount Stuart; that the farthest point in a westerly direction reached
by him was in longitude 126 degrees 59 minutes East; and that Mr. Giles,
a Victorian explorer, had reached longitude 125 degrees, but had been
unable to penetrate farther.
Some records of these expeditions, and a copy of the chart made by Mr.
Gosse, were in my possession, when at length, in March, 1874, I set to
work on the preliminary arrangements for the expedition. Before leaving
Perth I received from the Surveyor-General the following outline of
instructions for my general guidance:--
OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.
Western Australia, Surveyor-General's Office,
Perth, 17th March, 1874.
SIR,
The arrangements connected with the party organized for the purpose of
proceeding on an exploratory expedition to the north-eastern division of
this territory having now been completed, I am directed to instruct and
advise you generally in the objects and the intention of the Government
in regard to it.
The chief object of the expedition is to obtain information concerning
the immense tract of country from which flow the Murchison, Gascoigne,
Ashburton, DeGrey, Fitzroy, and other rivers falling into the sea on the
western and northern shores of this territory, as there are many good and
reasonable grounds for a belief that those rivers outflow from districts
neither barren nor badly watered.
Mr. A.C. Gregory, coming from the northwards by Sturt's Creek, discovered
the Denison Plains, and it may be that from the head of the Murchison
River going northwards there are to be found, near the heads of the
rivers above alluded to, many such grassy oases; and, looking at the
success which has already attended the stocking of the country to the
eastward of Champion Bay, and between the heads of the Greenough River
and Murchison, it will be most fortunate for our sheep farmers if you
discover any considerable addition to the present known pasture grounds
of the colony; and by this means no doubt the mineral resources of the
interior will be brought eventually to light. Every opinion of value that
has been given on the subject tells one that the head of the Murchison
lies in a district which may prove another land of Ophir.
In tracing up this river from Mount Gould to its source, and in tracing
other rivers to and from their head waters, detours must be made, but
generally your course will be north-east until you are within the
tropics; it will then be discretionary with you to decide on your route,
of which there is certainly a choice of three, besides the retracing of
your steps for the purpose, perhaps, of making a further inspection of
the good country you may have found.
Firstly, There is to choose whether you will go westward, and fall back
on the settlements at Nicol Bay or the De Grey River, on the north-west
coast.
Secondly, To consider whether you might advantageously push up Sturt's
Creek, keeping to the westward of Gregory's track.
Thirdly, To decide whether or not you will go eastward to the South
Australian telegraph line.
Possibly this latter course may be the most desirable and most feasible
to accomplish, as the telegraph stations, taking either Watson's Creek or
Daly Waters, are not more than 300 miles from the known water supply on
Sturt's Creek, and, supposing you do this successfully, the remaining
distance down the telegraph line to Port Darwin is a mere bagatelle,
provided an arrangement can be made with the South Australian Government
to have a supply of provisions at Daly Waters.
In the event of your going to Port Darwin, the plan probably will be to
sell your equipment and horses, returning with your party by sea, but in
this and in other matters of detail there is no desire to fetter you, or
to prevent the proper use of your judgment, as I am fully aware that your
sole object is in common with that of the Government--the carrying to a
satisfactory result the work to be done.
I hope that before you individually leave we shall have the pleasure of
welcoming Colonel Warburton, and I have no doubt will be able to obtain
some valuable information from him.
Having now dwelt generally on the objects of the expedition, I will go
more into details.
Your party will consist of yourself as leader, Mr. Alexander Forrest as
surveyor and second in command, James Sweeney (farrier), police-constable
James Kennedy, and two natives, Tommy Windich and Tommy Pierre, making
six in number and twenty horses. The party will be well armed; but by
every means in your power you will endeavour to cultivate and keep on
friendly relations with all the aborigines you may fall in with, and
avoid, if possible, any collision with them.
The provisions and other supplies already arranged for are calculated to
serve the party for eight months. The expedition will start from Champion
Bay, to which you will at once despatch by sea the stores to be obtained
here; and the men and horses should proceed overland without delay. You
will be probably able to charter carts or drays to take most of your
impedimenta from Geraldton to Mr. Burges's farthest out-station on the
Murchison; this will save you 200 miles of packing, and husband the
strength of your horses for that distance.
Having the assistance of Mr. Alexander Forrest as surveyor to the party,
you will do as much reconnaissance work in connexion with the colonial
survey as it may be possible; and also, by taking celestial observations
at all convenient times, and by sketching the natural features of the
country you pass over, add much to our geographical knowledge. All
geological and natural history specimens you can collect and preserve
will be most valuable in perfecting information concerning the physical
formation of the interior.
You will be good enough to get the agreement, forwarded with this, signed
by the whole of the party.
I am, etc.,
MALCOLM FRASER,
Surveyor-General.
DEPARTURE OF THE EXPEDITION.
On the 18th of March, 1874, the expedition quitted Perth. Colonel
Harvest, the Acting-Governor, wished us a hearty God-speed, which was
warmly echoed by our friends and the public generally. The
Surveyor-General and a party accompanied us for some distance along the
road. Ten days afterwards we reached Champion Bay, where we intended to
remain for three days, having settled to commence our journey on the 1st
of April. We had enough to do in preparing stores, shoeing horses, and
starting a team with our heaviest baggage to a spot about fifty miles
inland. On the 31st March we were entertained at dinner by Mr. Crowther
(Member of the Legislative Council for the district) at the Geraldton
Hotel. It was from that point we considered the expedition really
commenced, and my Journal will show that we numbered our camps from that
place. Our final start was not effected without some trouble. The horses,
happily ignorant of the troubles which awaited them, were fresh and
lively, kicking, plunging, and running away, so that it was noon before
we were fairly on the move. Our first day's journey brought us to a place
named Knockbrack, the hospitable residence of Mr. Thomas Burges, where we
remained two days, the 3rd being Good Friday. On the 4th we were again on
our way--a party of friends, Messrs. E. and F. Wittenoom, Mr. Lacy, and
others, accompanying us as far as Allen Nolba. We camped that night at a
well known as Wandanoe, where, however, there was scarcely any feed for
the horses, who appeared very dissatisfied with their entertainment, for
they wandered away, and several hours were spent on the following morning
in getting them together.
Our route lay by way of Kolonaday, North Spring, Tinderlong, and Bilyera
to Yuin, Mr. Burges's principal station, which we reached on the 9th, and
remained until Monday the 13th. Then we started on a route
east-north-east, and camped that night at a rock water-hole called
Beetinggnow, where we found good feed and water. My brother and Kennedy
went on in advance to Poondarrie, to dig water-holes, and we rejoined
them there on the 14th. This place is situated in latitude 27 degrees 48
minutes 39 seconds South, and longitude 116 degrees 16 minutes 11 seconds
East.
On the following day we were very busy packing up the rations, for I had
arranged to send back the cart, gone on in advance. We had eight months'
provisions, besides general baggage, and I certainly experienced some
difficulty in arranging how to carry such a tremendously heavy load, even
with the aid of eighteen pack-horses, and a dozen natives who accompanied
us. I intended to start on the 16th, but one of the horses was missing,
and, although Pierre and I tracked him for five miles, we were compelled
to give up the search for that night, as darkness came on, and return to
camp. On the following day, however, we followed up the tracks, and
caught the horse after a chase of twenty miles. He had started on the
return journey, and was only a mile from Yuin when we overtook him.
CAMELS AND HORSES IN THE DESERT.
By half-past nine on the morning of the 18th we had made a fair start.
The day was intensely hot, and as we had only three riding-horses, half
of the party were compelled to walk. We travelled in a north-easterly
direction for eleven miles, and reached a spring called Wallala, which we
dug out, and so obtained sufficient water for our horses. I may mention
here that Colonel Warburton and other explorers who endeavoured to cross
the great inland desert from the east had the advantage of being provided
with camels--a very great advantage indeed in a country where the water
supply is so scanty and uncertain as in Central Australia. As we
ascertained by painful experience, a horse requires water at least once
in twelve hours, and suffers greatly if that period of abstinence is
exceeded. A camel, however, will go for ten or twelve days without drink,
without being much distressed. This fact should be remembered, because
the necessity of obtaining water for the horses entailed upon us many
wearying deviations from the main route and frequent disappointments,
besides great privation and inconvenience to man and beast.
The 19th was Sunday, and, according to practice, we rested. Every Sunday
throughout the journey I read Divine Service, and, except making the
daily observations, only work absolutely necessary was done. Whenever
possible, we rested on Sunday, taking, if we could, a pigeon, a parrot,
or such other game as might come in our way as special fare. Sunday's
dinner was an institution for which, even in those inhospitable wilds, we
had a great respect. This day, the 19th, ascertained, by meridian
altitude of the sun, that we were in latitude 27 degrees 40 minutes 6
seconds South. We had several pigeons and parrots, which, unfortunately
for them, but most fortunately for us, had come within range of our guns.
While thus resting, Police constable Haydon arrived from Champion Bay,
bringing letters and a thermometer (broken on the journey), also a
barometer. When he left we bade good-bye to the last white man we were
destined to see for nearly six months.
After the usual difficulty with the horses, which had again wandered, we
started on Monday, the 20th, at half-past ten, and steering about 30
degrees East of north for seven miles, came to a spring called Bullardo,
and seven miles farther we camped at Warrorang, where there was scarcely
any water or feed. We were now in latitude 27 degrees 33 minutes 21
seconds South, Cheangwa Hill being North 340 degrees East magnetic.
I now take up the narrative in the words of my Journal, which will show
the reason for ultimately adopting the third of the routes which the
letter of instructions left to my discretion.
April 21st.
Continued on North 340 degrees East to Cheangwa Hill four miles; thence
northerly, passing Koonbun, and on to a place called Pingie, on the
Sandford River. From camp to Pingie, Barloweery Peaks bore North 322
degrees East magnetic, Cheangwa Hill North 207 degrees East, latitude 27
degrees 19 minutes 33 seconds. Found water by digging. Rather warm;
barometer rising. Clear flats along water-courses; otherwise dense
thickets.
THE MURCHISON RIVER.
22nd.
Continued northerly; at twelve miles crossed the dividing range between
the Sandford and other creeks flowing into the Murchison. Camped at a
granite hill called Bia, with a fine spring on its north side. Got a view
of Mount Murchison, which bore North 7 degrees East magnetic from camp.
Fine grassy granite country for the first eight miles to-day. Splendid
feed at this camp. Travelled about fifteen miles. Latitude by meridian
altitude of Regulus 27 degrees 7 minutes South. Walking in turns every
day.
23rd.
Steering a little west of north over level country for six miles, with a
few water-courses with white gums in them, we came into granite country
with bare hills in every direction. Kept on till we came to a brook with
pools of fresh water, where we camped about one mile from the Murchison
River. Latitude 26 degrees 52 minutes 38 seconds, Mount Murchison bearing
North 50 degrees East. Went with Pierre to a peak of granite North 50
degrees East, about one mile and a half from camp, from which I took a
round of angles and bearings. Travelled about eighteen miles to-day.
24th.
At one mile reached the Murchison River, and followed along up it. Fine
grassy flats, good loamy soil, with white gums in bed and on flats.
Travelled about fourteen miles, and camped. Rather brackish water in the
pools. Latitude of camp 26 degrees 42 minutes 43 seconds by Regulus. Shot
seven ducks and eight cockatoos. Saw several kangaroos and emus. Rain
much required. Mount Murchison bears from camp North 122 degrees East,
and Mount Narryer North 14 degrees East magnetic.
25th.
Continued up river for about nine miles, and camped at a fine spring in
the bed of river, of fresh water, which I named Elizabeth Spring; it is
surrounded by salt water, and is quite fresh. Mount Narryer bore from
camp North 4 degrees East magnetic, and Mount Murchison North 168 degrees
30 minutes East magnetic. Windich shot an emu, and some ducks were also
shot. Fine grassy country along river; white gums in flats; large salt
pools. Very hot weather; thermometer 90 degrees in pack-saddle.
26th (Sunday).
Did not travel to-day. Plotted up track and took observations for time
and longitude. Barometer 29.18; thermometer 83 degrees at 6 p.m. Latitude
of camp 26 degrees 35 minutes 8 seconds South by Regulus.
27th.
Travelled up river for about sixteen miles; camped at a fine fresh pool
in latitude 26 degrees 24 minutes 52 seconds South, Mount Narryer bearing
North 238 degrees East, and Mount Dugel North 334 degrees East magnetic.
Fine grassy country along river. Shot six ducks; great numbers were in
the river, also white cockatoos. Very warm mid-day; cloudy in evening.
Marked a tree F on the right bank of river.
A SOLITARY CAMP OUT.
28th.
Followed up the river. Fine pools for the first six miles, with numbers
of ducks in them. After travelling about twenty miles we lost the river
from keeping too far to the east, and following branches instead of the
main branch--in fact, the river spreads out over beautifully-grassed
plains for many miles. Fearing we should be without water, I pushed
ahead, and after following a flat for about six miles, got to the main
river, where there were large pools of brackish water. As it was getting
late, returned in all haste, but could not find the party, they having
struck westward. I got on the tracks after dark, and, after following
them two miles, had to give it up and camp for the night, tying up my
horse alongside. Neither food nor water, and no rug.
29th.
I anxiously awaited daylight, and then followed on the tracks and
overtook the party, encamped on the main branch of the river, with
abundance of brackish water in the pools. Shot several cockatoos. From
camp Mount Narryer bore North 211 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic, and
Mount Dugel 225 degrees 15 minutes East magnetic. Camp is in latitude 26
degrees 6 minutes 12 seconds. Marked a tree with the letter F on right
bank of river.
30th.
Two of the horses could not be found till half-past twelve. After this we
continued up the river over well-grassed country for about ten miles.
Camped at a small pool of fresh water, in latitude 26 degrees 2 minutes
52 seconds, which we luckily found by tracking up natives. Large pools of
salt water in river. Three walking and three riding every day. Set watch
to-night, two hours each.
May 1st.
Followed up river, keeping a little to the south of it for about fifteen
miles. We camped on a splendid grassy flat, with a fine large pool of
fresh water in it. Shot several ducks. This is the best camp we have
had---plenty of grass and water--and I was very rejoiced to find the
month commence so auspiciously. Barometer 29.10; thermometer 78 degrees
at 5.30 p.m.; latitude 26 degrees 0 minutes 52 seconds South. Sighted
Mount Gould, which bore North 58 degrees East magnetic. Marked a white
gum-tree F 20, being 20th camp from Geraldton.
MEETING NATIVES.
2nd.
Steered straight for Mount Gould, North 58 degrees East, for sixteen
miles, when I found I had made an error, and that we had unknowingly
crossed the river this morning. After examining the chart, I steered
South-East towards Mount Hale and, striking the river, we followed along
it a short distance and camped at some brackish water, Mount Hale bearing
North 178 degrees East, and Mount Gould North 28 degrees East. Barometer
28.96; thermometer 77 degrees at 5.30 p.m. As Pierre was walking along,
he suddenly turned round and saw four or five natives following. Being
rather surprised, he frightened them by roughly saying, "What the devil
you want here?" when they quickly made off. Windich and I then tried to
speak to them, but could not find them. Latitude 25 degrees 57 minutes 32
seconds South; longitude about 117 degrees 20 minutes East.
3rd (Sunday).
Went to summit of Mount Hale in company with Pierre, and after an hour's
hard work reached it. It was very rough and difficult to ascend. The
rocks were very magnetic; the view was extensive; indeed, the whole
country was an extended plain. To the east, plains for at least thirty
miles, when broken ranges were visible. Mount Gould to the
North-North-East showed very remarkably. Mount Narryer range was visible.
To the south, only one hill or range could be seen, while to the
South-East broken ranges of granite were seen about thirty miles distant.
Mount Hale is very lofty and rugged, and is composed of micaceous iron
ore, with brown hematite; being magnetic, the compass was rendered
useless. Returned about one o'clock. Windich and the others had been out
searching for fresh water, and the former had seen three natives and had
a talk with them. They did not appear frightened, but he could not make
anything out of them. They found some good water. Barometer, at 6.30
p.m., 28.88; thermometer 76 degrees. Took observations for time and
longitude. We are much in want of rain, and thought we should have had
some, but the barometer is rising this evening. To-morrow we enter on
country entirely unknown.
4th.
Started at nine o'clock, and, travelling North-East for three miles, came
to junction of river from Mount Gould, when we got some fresh water, also
met two natives who were friendly, and they accompanied us. We took the
south or main branch of river, and, steering a little south of east for
about nine miles, over splendidly-grassed country, we camped on a small
pool of fresh water on one of the courses of the river, Mount Gould
bearing North 334 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic, and Mount Hale North
228 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic. Barometer 28.90; thermometer 76
degrees at 6 p.m.; latitude 25 degrees 54 minutes 37 seconds by Regulus.
Marked a tree F 22, being 22nd camp from Geraldton.
LOFTY RANGES.
5th.
We travelled up easterly along the river, which spreads out and has
several channels, sometimes running for miles separately, then joining
again. There were many fine fresh pools for the first four miles, after
which they were all salt, and the river divided into so many channels
that it was difficult to know the main river. After travelling about
sixteen miles over fine grassy plains and flats, we were joined by seven
natives, who had returned with the two who had left us this morning. They
told us that there was no fresh water on the branch we were following,
and we therefore followed them North 30 degrees East for seven miles
(leaving the river to the southward), when they brought us to a small
pool in a brook, where we camped, Mount Gould bearing North 285 degrees
30 minutes East magnetic, Mount Hale North 250 degrees East magnetic.
Latitude 25 degrees 52 minutes from mean of two observations. Barometer
28.78; thermometer 77 degrees at 6 P.M.
6th.
Three of the natives accompanied us to-day. We travelled east for six
miles, when I ascended a rise and could see a river to the north and
south; the one to the north the natives say has fresh water. As the
natives say there is plenty of water ahead, North 70 degrees East, we
continued onwards to a hill, which I named Mount Maitland. After about
twenty miles we reached it, but found the spring to be bad, and after
digging no water came. For our relief I tied up the horses for some time
before letting them go. Ascending the hill close to the camp, I saw a
very extensive range, and took a fine round of angles. The compass is
useless on these hills, as they are composed of micaceous iron ore, with
brown hematite, which is very magnetic. To the east a line of high,
remarkable ranges extend, running eastwards, which I have named the
Robinson Range, after his Excellency Governor Robinson. One of the
highest points I named Mount Fraser, after the Honourable Commissioner of
Crown Lands, from whom I received much assistance and consideration, and
who has aided the expedition in every possible way; the other highest
point, Mount Padbury, after Mr. W. Padbury, a contributor to the
Expedition Fund. The river could be traced for thirty miles by the line
of white gums, while to the south long lines of white gums could also be
seen. I am not sure which is the main branch, but I intend following the
one to the north, as it looks the largest and the natives say it has
fresh water. Barometer 28.45; thermometer 69 degrees at 6 p.m.; latitude
25 degrees 46 minutes South. The last thirty-five miles over fine grassy
plains, well adapted for sheep-runs; and water could, I think, be easily
procured by digging, as well as from the river.
7th.
The three natives ran away this morning, or at least left us without
asking leave. We had to keep watch all last night over the horses to keep
them from rambling. Got an early start, and steering North 70 degrees
East for about twelve miles, we reached the river, and camped at a fresh
pool of splendid water. This is a fine large branch; it is fresh, and I
believe, if not the main, is one of the largest branches. The country is
now more undulating and splendidly grassed, and would carry sheep well.
The whole bed of the river, or valley, is admirably adapted for pastoral
purposes, and will no doubt ere long be stocked. Latitude 25 degrees 42
minutes 12 seconds South, and longitude about 118 degrees 9 minutes East.
Barometer 28.57; thermometer 75 degrees at 5.30 p.m. Marked a white gum
on right bank of river F 25, being the 25th camp from Champion Bay.
8th.
Continued up the river for about fifteen miles, the stream gradually
getting smaller, many small creeks coming into it; wide bed and flat.
Fine grassy country on each side, and some permanent pools in river.
Camped at a small pool of fresh water, and rode up to a low ridge to the
North-East, from which I got a fine view to the eastward. I do not think
the river we are following goes much farther; low ranges and a few hills
alone visible. Barometer 28.48; thermometer 70 degrees at 6 o'clock p.m.;
latitude 25 degrees 47 minutes 53 seconds by meridian altitude of
Jupiter.
9th.
Continued along river, which is gradually getting smaller, for about
thirteen miles over most beautiful grassy country, the best we have seen.
White gums along bed. I believe the river does not go more than twenty
miles from here, it being now very small. Found a nice pool of water and
camped. Barometer 28.48; thermometer 68 degrees at half-past five
o'clock.