Explorations in Australia - John Forrest
THE DRY SEASON.
10th (Sunday).
Went with Windich south about eight miles to a low range, which I rightly
anticipated would be a watershed. Could see a long line of white gums;
believe there may be a river to the south, or it may be the salt branch
of the Murchison. Returned to camp at two o'clock; plotted up track.
Barometer 28.52; thermometer 69 degrees at 6 p.m. Mount Fraser bears
North 328 degrees East magnetic from camp, which is in latitude 25
degrees 51 minutes 46 seconds, longitude about 118 degrees 30 minutes
East. The country is very dry indeed; in fact, we could not be more
unfortunate in the season thus far. I only trust we may be blessed with
abundance of rain shortly, otherwise we shall not be able to move
onwards.
11th.
Continued up river, which is getting very small, over beautifully-grassed
country, and at seven miles came to a fine flat and splendid pool of
permanent water. Although a delightful spot, I did not halt, as we had
come such a short distance. Here we met six native women, who were very
frightened at first, but soon found sufficient confidence to talk and to
tell us there was plenty of water ahead. As they always say this, I do
not put any faith in it. We continued on about east for eight miles to a
high flat-topped hill, when we got a view of the country ahead and turned
about North-East towards some flats, and at about eight miles camped on a
grassy plain, with some small clay-pans of water. Splendid feeding
country all along this valley--I may say for the last 100 miles. Heard a
number of natives cooeying above our camp, but did not see them.
Barometer 28.37; thermometer 68 degrees at six o'clock p.m.; latitude 25
degrees 51 minutes South by meridian altitude of Jupiter.
12th.
Started East-North-East for four miles, then north three miles to the
range, where we searched over an hour for water without success. We then
travelled South-East for five miles and south one mile and a half to a
water-hole in a brook, by digging out which we got abundance of water.
About a quarter of a mile farther down the brook found a large pool of
water and shot six ducks. As soon as we unloaded, it commenced to rain,
and kept on steadily till midnight. I am indeed pleased to get this rain
at last, as the country is very dry. Splendid open feeding country all
to-day, and the camp is a beautifully-grassed spot. Marked a white
gum-tree F 29, close to the pool or spring on the right bank of this
brook.
GLENGARRY RANGE.
13th.
Continued on, steering about south-east, as the flat we have been
following the last week is now nearly at an end. Afterwards determined to
bear southward, in order to see where the south branch of the river goes
to. For the first six miles over most magnificent grassed country.
Ascended a low range to get a view of the country. The prospect ahead,
however, not cheering. Took round of bearings. A very conspicuous range
bore about south, which I named Glengarry Range, in honour of Mr.
Maitland Brown, a great supporter of the expedition; while to the
south-east only one solitary hill could be seen, distant about twenty
miles. We, however, continued for about ten miles over most miserable
country, thickets and spinifex, when we reached some granitic rocks and a
low rise of granite, on which we found sufficient water to camp.
Barometer 28.12; thermometer 60 degrees at 5.30 p.m.; latitude 25 degrees
57 minutes 11 seconds South by Regulus.
14th.
Steered South-East for about fourteen miles to a stony low range, thence
East-North-East and east and south for six miles, turning and twisting,
looking for water. Windich found some in a gully and we camped. Spinifex
for the first fourteen miles, and miserable country. The prospect ahead
not very promising. Barometer 28.06; thermometer 83 degrees at 5 p.m.
Every appearance of rain. Latitude 26 degrees 8 minutes 31 seconds South,
longitude about 119 degrees 18 minutes East.
15th.
Raining lightly this morning. I did not proceed, but gave the horses
rest.
16th.
Continued east for five miles, when we found three of the horses were
missing; returned with Windich, and found them near camp, having never
started at all. Seeing white gums to the south-east, we followed for five
miles down a fine brook (which I named Negri Creek, after Commander
Negri, founder of the Geographical Society of Italy), with fine grassy
country on each side. Afterwards it joined another brook, and went
south-east for about three miles, where it lost itself in open flats.
Struck south for two miles to some large white gums, but found no water.
After long looking about I found water in a gully and camped. Distance
travelled about twenty miles. Spinifex and grassy openings the first five
miles to-day. Barometer 28.20; thermometer 67 degrees at 6 o'clock p.m.;
latitude 26 degrees 16 minutes 8 seconds by Jupiter. Windich shot a
turkey.
MOUNTS BARTLE AND RUSSELL.
17th (Sunday).
The horses rambled far away, and it was noon before they were all
collected. Shifted three and a half miles north, where there was better
feed and water. Went on to a low hill on the north of our last night's
camp, and got a fine view of the country to the south and south-east. Two
remarkable flat-topped hills bore South-East, which I named Mount Bartle
and Mount Russell, after the distinguished President and Foreign
Secretary of the Royal Geographical Society. Saw a long line of white
gums (colalyas) running East and West about ten miles distant, looking
very much like a river. To the east and north the view was intercepted by
long stony rises, apparently covered with spinifex. Large white gum
clumps studded the plains in every direction. Evidences of heavy rainfall
at certain times to be seen everywhere. Barometer 28.28; thermometer 72
degrees at 5 p.m.; latitude 26 degrees 13 minutes 4 seconds South.
18th.
Steered South-South-East for four miles, then South-East generally,
towards the flat-topped hills seen yesterday, and which bore 144 degrees
East magnetic from Spinifex Hill. At six miles crossed a low range
covered with spinifex, after which we passed over country generally well
grassed, some of it most beautifully, and white gums very large in clumps
were studded all over the plains. At about twenty-two miles reached the
flat-topped hills, and camped, finding some water in a clay-pan. The line
of white gums I find are only large clumps studded over extensive plains
of splendidly-grassed country. No large water-course was crossed, but
several small creeks form here and there, and afterwards run out into the
plains, finally finding their way into the Murchison. It was sundown when
we camped. Walked over twenty miles myself to-day. Barometer 28.38;
thermometer 60 degrees at six o'clock; latitude 26 degrees 27 minutes 38
seconds South, longitude about 119 degrees 42 minutes East.
19th.
Continued in a north-easterly direction for about eight miles over fine
grassy plains, and camped at some water in a small gully with fine feed.
I camped early in order to give the backs of the horses a good washing,
and to refit some of the pack-saddles. Passed several clay-pans with
water. We have not seen any permanent water for the last eighty miles. I
much wish to find some, as it is very risky going on without the means of
falling back. The country seems very deficient of permanent water,
although I believe plenty could be procured by sinking. Barometer 28.46;
thermometer 63 degrees at 5 p.m.; latitude 26 degrees 23 minutes 39
seconds South. Left a pack-saddle frame and two pack-bags hanging on a
tree.
KIMBERLEY RANGE.
20th.
Steering North-East for five miles over fine grassy plains, came to a low
stony range, ascending which we saw, a little to the south, a line of
(colalya) white gums, to which we proceeded. Then following up a large
brook for about five miles North-East, we camped at a small water-hole in
the brook. In the afternoon I went with Pierre about one mile North-East
of camp to the summit of a rough range and watershed, which I believe is
the easterly watershed of the Murchison River. All the creeks to the west
of this range (which I named Kimberley Range, after the Right Honourable
Lord Kimberley, the Secretary of State for the Colonies) trend towards
the Murchison, and finally empty into the main river. From this range we
could see a long way to the eastward. The country is very level, with low
ranges, but no conspicuous hills. Not a promising country for water, but
still looks good feeding country. This range is composed of brown
hematite, decomposing to yellow (tertiary), and is very magnetic, the
compass being useless. Bituminous pitch found oozing out of the
rocks--probably the result of the decomposition of the excrement of bats.
It contains fragments of the wing cases of insects, and gives reactions
similar to the bituminous mineral or substance found in Victoria.
Barometer 28.285; thermometer 63 degrees at 5 p.m. On summit of
watershed, barometer 28.15; thermometer 69 degrees; latitude 26 degrees
17 minutes 12 seconds, longitude about 119 degrees 54 minutes East.
21st.
Continued on North-East, and, travelling over the watershed of the
Murchison, we followed along a gully running North-East; then, passing
some water-holes, travelled on and ascended a small range, from which we
beheld a very extensive clear plain just before us. Thinking it was a
fine grassy plain we quickly descended, when, to our disgust, we found it
was spinifex that had been burnt. We continued till three o'clock, with
nothing but spinifex plains in sight. I despatched Windich towards a
range in the distance, and followed after as quickly as possible. When we
reached the range we heard the welcoming gunshot, and, continuing on, we
met Tommy, who had found abundance of water and feed on some granite
rocks. We soon unloaded, and were all rejoiced to be in safety, the
prospect this afternoon having been anything but cheering. Distance
travelled about thirty miles. Barometer 28.22; thermometer 56 degrees at
6 p.m. Cold easterly wind all day. About eighteen miles of spinifex
plains. Latitude 26 degrees 0 minutes 53 seconds by Arcturus and e
Bootes.
22nd.
Did not travel to-day, the horses being tired, and the country ahead did
not seem very inviting. Windich found a native spring about a mile to the
North-East. This is a very nice spot, surrounded as it is by spinifex.
Variation 2 degrees 40 minutes West by observation.
23rd.
Continued on North-East for about twelve miles over spinifex plains and
sandy ridges. Went on ahead with Windich, and came to a gorge and some
granite rocks with abundance of water, and were soon joined by the party.
Barometer 28.30; thermometer 60 degrees at 6 p.m.; latitude 25 degrees 53
minutes 52 seconds by Altair.
24th (Sunday).
We rested at camp. I was all day calculating lunar observations.
Barometer 28.22; thermometer 64 degrees at 5.30 p.m.
FRERE RANGES.
25th.
Travelled onwards about North 40 degrees East for eight miles, passing a
low granite range at six miles. Came to a fine brook trending a little
south of east, which we followed downwards seven miles, running nearly
east. This brook was full of water, some of the pools being eight or ten
feet deep, ten yards wide, and sixty yards long. It flowed out into a
large flat, and finally runs into a salt lake. I named this brook Sweeney
Creek, after my companion and farrier, James Sweeney. Leaving the flat,
we struck North-North-East for four miles, and came to a salt marsh about
half a mile wide, which we crossed. Following along, came into some high
ranges, which I named the Frere Ranges, after Sir Bartle Frere, the
distinguished President of the Royal Geographical Society. Found a small
rock water-hole in a gully and camped. Water appears exceedingly scarce
in these ranges. It is very remarkable that there should have been such
heavy rain twelve miles back, and none at all here. Rough feed for
horses. Distance travelled about twenty-seven miles. These ranges run
east and west, and are the highest we have seen. The marsh appears to
follow along the south side of the range. Barometer 28.38; thermometer 70
degrees at 5.30 p.m.; latitude 25 degrees 43 minutes 44 seconds by
Arcturus.
26th.
Ascended the Frere Ranges and got a fine view to the north and east. Fine
high hills and ranges to the north; a salt marsh and low ranges to the
east and South-East. Continued on North-East for four miles, then
North-North-West for three miles, passing plenty of water in clay-holes
and clay-pans in bed of marsh, we camped at a fine pool in a large brook
that runs into the marsh, which I called Kennedy Creek, after my
companion James Kennedy. The prospect ahead is very cheering, and I hope
to find plenty of water and feed for the next 100 miles. Latitude 25
degrees 38 minutes 44 seconds South; barometer 28.42; thermometer 41
degrees at 10 p.m. Marked a white gumtree F 40 close to camp in bed of
river. The banks of the brook at this spot are composed of purple-brown
slate (Silurian).
27th.
Followed up the Kennedy Creek, bearing North-North-East and North for
about seven miles, passing a number of shallow pools, when we came to
some splendid springs, which I named the Windich Springs, after my old
and well-tried companion Tommy Windich, who has now been on three
exploring expeditions with me. They are the best springs I have ever
seen--flags in the bed of the river, and pools twelve feet deep and
twenty chains long--a splendid place for water. We therefore camped, and
found another spot equally good a quarter of a mile west of camp in
another branch. There is a most magnificent supply of water and
feed--almost unlimited and permanent. A fine range of hills bore
north-west from the springs, which I named Carnarvon Range, after the
Right Honourable the present Secretary of State for the Colonies. The
hills looked very remarkable, being covered with spinifex almost to their
very summit. We shot five ducks and got three opossums this afternoon,
besides doing some shoeing. There is an immense clump of white gums at
head of spring. Barometer 28.34; thermometer 46 degrees at 11 p.m. Marked
a large white gum-tree F 41 on west side close to right bank of river,
being our 41st camp from Geraldton. Latitude 25 degrees 22 minutes 26
seconds South, longitude about 120 degrees 42 minutes East.
MOUNT SALVADO.
28th.
Steering North 30 degrees East for eleven miles, we came to a rough hill,
which I ascended, camped on north side of it, and found water in a gully.
The view was very extensive but not promising--spinifex being in every
direction. A bold hill bore North 31 degrees East magnetic, about seven
miles distant to the North-North-West, which I named Mount Salvado, after
Bishop Salvado, of Victoria Plains, a contributor to the Expedition Fund.
The Carnarvon Ranges looked very remarkable. To the East and North-East
spinifex and low ranges for fifteen miles, when the view was intercepted
by spinifex rises--altogether very unpromising. Barometer 28.26;
thermometer 70 degrees at 5 p.m.; latitude 25 degrees 24 minutes 11
seconds South.
29th.
Steered East-North-East for seven miles, when we came to some fine water
in a gully, which we did not camp at, owing to my being ahead with
Windich, and my brother not seeing a note I left telling him to remain
there while I went on to get a view ahead. Passing this at ten miles, we
reached a low spinifex hill capped with rock, from which a remarkable
hill was visible, which I named Mount Davis, after my friend Mr. J.S.
Davis, who was a contributor to the Expedition Fund. Mount Salvado was
also visible. Spinifex in every direction, and the country very miserable
and unpromising. I went ahead with Windich. Steering about North 15
degrees East for about eight miles over spinifex sand-hills, we found a
spring in a small flat, which I named Pierre Spring, after my companion
Tommy Pierre. It was surrounded by the most miserable spinifex country,
and is quite a diamond in the desert. We cleared it out and got
sufficient water for our horses. To the North, South, and East nothing
but spinifex sand-hills in sight. Barometer 28.44; thermometer 70 degrees
at 5 p.m.; latitude 25 degrees 14 minutes 34 seconds South by Altair.
SEARCHING FOR WATER.
30th.
Steering East-North-East over spinifex red sand-hills for nine miles, we
came to a valley and followed down a gully running North-North-East for
two miles, when it lost itself on the flat, which was wooded and grassy.
About a mile farther on we found a clay-pan with water, and camped, with
excellent feed. The country is very dry, and I should think there has not
been any rain for several months. The appearance of the country ahead is
better than it looked yesterday. I went onwards with Windich to-day, and
found the water. Barometer 28.46; thermometer 66 degrees at 5.30 p.m.;
latitude 25 degrees 10 minutes 32 seconds.
31st. (Sunday).
Rested at camp. Took observations for time. Left two pack-saddle bags
hanging on a tree.
June 1st.
Barometer 28.38; thermometer 45 degrees at 8 a.m. In collecting the
horses we came on an old native camp, and found the skull of a native,
much charred, evidently the remains of one who had been eaten. Continued
on about North-East along a grassy flat, and at five miles passed some
clay-pans of water, after which we encountered spinifex, which continued
for fifteen miles, when we got to a rocky range, covered with more
spinifex. Myself and Windich were in advance, and after reaching the
range we followed down a flat about North for six miles, when it joined
another large water-course, both trending North-North-West and
North-West. We followed down this river for about seven miles, in hopes
of finding water, without success. Night was fast approaching, and I
struck north for four miles to a range, on reaching which the prospect
was very poor; it proved to be a succession of spinifex sand-hills, and
no better country was in view to the North-East and East. It was just
sundown when we reached the range; we then turned east for two miles, and
south, following along all the gullies we came across, but could find no
water. It was full moon, so that we could see clearly. We turned more to
the westward and struck our outward tracks, and, following back along
them, we met the party encamped at the junction of the two branches
mentioned before. We kept watch over the horses to keep them from
straying. Mine and Windich's horses were nearly knocked up, and Windich
himself was very ill all night. Latitude 24 degrees 55 minutes 19 seconds
South.
AT WELD SPRINGS.
2nd.
Early this morning went with Pierre to look for water, while my brother
and Windich went on the same errand. We followed up the brook about south
for seven miles, when we left it and followed another branch about
South-South-East, ascending which, Pierre drew my attention to swarms of
birds, parroquets, etc., about half a mile ahead. We hastened on, and to
our delight found one of the best springs in the colony. It ran down the
gully for twenty chains, and is as clear and fresh as possible, while the
supply is unlimited. Overjoyed at our good fortune, we hastened back,
and, finding that my brother and Windich had not returned, packed up and
shifted over to the springs, leaving a note telling them the good news.
After reaching the springs we were soon joined by them. They had only
found sufficient water to give their own horses a drink; they also
rejoiced to find so fine a spot. Named the springs the Weld Springs,
after his Excellency Governor Weld, who has always taken such great
interest in exploration, and without whose influence and assistance this
expedition would not have been organized. There is splendid feed all
around. I intend giving the horses a week's rest here, as they are much
in want of it, and are getting very poor and tired. Barometer 28.24;
thermometer 71 degrees at 5 p.m. Shot a kangaroo.
3rd.
Rested at Weld Springs. Light rain this morning. The horses doing well,
and will improve very fast. Towards evening the weather cleared, which I
was sorry for, as good rains are what we are much in need of. Did some
shoeing. Barometer 28.13; thermometer 61 degrees at 5 p.m.
4th.
Barometer 28.16; thermometer 53 degrees at 8 a.m. Rested at Weld Springs.
Shod some of the horses. Repairing saddles. Rating chronometer. Windich
shot an emu. Horses doing first-rate, and fast improving.
5th.
Barometer 28.28; thermometer 53 degrees at 6 p.m. Rested at Weld Springs.
Shoeing and saddle-stuffing. Ten emus came to water; shot twice with
rifle at them, but missed. Rated chronometer.
6th.
Rested at Weld Springs. Took three sets of lunars. Pierre shot a
kangaroo. Marked a tree F 46 on the east side of the spring at our
bivouac, which is in latitude 25 degrees 0 minutes 46 seconds South,
longitude about 121 degrees 21 minutes East. Mended saddles. Horses much
improved, and some of them getting very fresh.
7th (Sunday).
Pierre shot an emu, and the others shot several pigeons. This is a
splendid spot; emus and kangaroos numerous, pigeons and birds
innumerable, literally covering the entire surface all round the place in
the evenings. We have been living on game ever since we have been here.
Intend taking a flying trip to-morrow; party to follow on our tracks on
Tuesday. Read Divine Service. Barometer 28.38; thermometer 55 degrees at
7 p.m.
8th.
Started with Tommy Pierre to explore the country East-North-East for
water, leaving instructions for my brother to follow after us to-morrow
with the party. We travelled generally East-North-East for twenty miles
over spinifex and undulating sand-hills, without seeing any water. We
turned east for ten miles to a range, which we found to be covered with
spinifex. Everywhere nothing else was to be seen; no feed, destitute of
water; while a few small gullies ran out of the low range, but all were
dry. Another range about twenty-four miles distant was the extent of our
view, to which we bore. At twenty miles, over red sandy hills covered
with spinifex and of the most miserable nature, we came to a narrow
samphire flat, following which south for two miles, we camped without
water and scarcely any feed. Our horses were knocked up, having come over
heavy ground more than fifty miles. The whole of the country passed over
to-day is covered with spinifex, and is a barren worthless desert.
BACK TO THE SPRINGS.
9th.
At daybreak continued east about four miles to the range seen yesterday,
which we found to be a low stony rise, covered with spinifex. The view
was extensive and very gloomy. Far to the north and east, spinifex
country, level, and no appearance of hills or water-courses. To the south
were seen a few low ranges, covered also with spinifex; in fact, nothing
but spinifex in sight, and no chance of water. Therefore I was obliged to
turn back, as our horses were done up. Travelling south for five miles,
we then turned West-North-West until we caught our outward tracks, and,
following them, we met the party at 3 o'clock, coming on, about twenty
miles from the Weld Springs. Our horses were completely done up. We had
not had water for thirty-one hours. We all turned back, retreating
towards the springs, and continued on till 10 o'clock, when we camped in
the spinifex and tied up the horses.
10th.
We travelled on to the springs, which were only about three miles from
where we slept last night, and camped. I intend staying here for some
time, until I find water ahead or we get some rain. We are very fortunate
in having such a good depot, as the feed is very good. We found that
about a dozen natives had been to the springs while we were away. They
had collected some of the emu feathers, which were lying all about.
Natives appear to be very numerous, and I have no doubt that there are
springs in the spinifex or valleys close to it. Barometer 28.08;
thermometer 62 degrees at 5.30 p.m.
11th.
Rested at the Weld Springs. Shot an emu; about a dozen came to water. My
brother and Windich intend going a flying trip East-South-East in search
of water to-morrow. Barometer 28.15; thermometer 60 degrees at 5 p.m.
12th.
My brother and Windich started in search of water; myself and Pierre
accompanied them about twelve miles with water to give their horses a
drink. About ten o'clock we left them and returned to camp.
FIGHT WITH THE NATIVES.
13th.
About one o'clock Pierre saw a flock of emus coming to water, and went
off to get a shot. Kennedy followed with the rifle. I climbed up on a
small tree to watch them. I was surprised to hear natives' voices, and,
looking towards the hill, I saw from forty to sixty natives running
towards the camp, all plumed up and armed with spears and shields. I was
cool, and told Sweeney to bring out the revolvers; descended from the
tree and got my gun and cooeyed to Pierre and Kennedy, who came running.
By this time they were within sixty yards, and halted. One advanced to
meet me and stood twenty yards off; I made friendly signs; he did not
appear very hostile. All at once one from behind (probably a chief) came
rushing forward, and made many feints to throw spears. He went through
many manoeuvres, and gave a signal, when the whole number made a rush
towards us, yelling and shouting, with their spears shipped. When within
thirty yards I gave the word to fire: we all fired as one man, only one
report being heard. I think the natives got a few shots, but they all ran
up the hill and there stood, talking and haranguing and appearing very
angry. We re-loaded our guns, and got everything ready for a second
attack, which I was sure they would make. We were not long left in
suspense. They all descended from the hill and came on slowly towards us.
When they were about 150 yards off I fired my rifle, and we saw one of
them fall, but he got up again and was assisted away. On examining the
spot we found the ball had cut in two the two spears he was carrying; he
also dropped his wommera, which was covered with blood. We could follow
the blood-drops for a long way over the stones. I am afraid he got a
severe wound. My brother and Windich being away we were short-handed. The
natives seem determined to take our lives, and therefore I shall not
hesitate to fire on them should they attack us again. I thus decide and
write in all humility, considering it a necessity, as the only way of
saving our lives. I write this at 4 p.m., just after the occurrence, so
that, should anything happen to us, my brother will know how and when it
occurred.