Explorations in Australia - John Forrest
5 p.m. The natives appear to have made off. We intend sleeping in the
thicket close to camp, and keeping a strict watch, so as to be ready for
them should they return to the attack this evening. At 7.30 my brother
and Windich returned, and were surprised to hear of our adventure. They
had been over fifty miles from camp East-South-East, and had passed over
some good feeding country, but had not found a drop of water. They and
their horses had been over thirty hours without water.
14th (Sunday).
The natives did not return to the attack last night. In looking round
camp we found the traces of blood, where one of the natives had been
lying down. This must have been the foremost man, who was in the act of
throwing his spear, and who urged the others on. Two therefore, at least,
are wounded, and will have cause to remember the time they made their
murderous attack upon us. We worked all day putting up a stone hut, ten
by nine feet, and seven feet high, thatched with boughs. We finished it;
it will make us safe at night. Being a very fair hut, it will be a great
source of defence. Barometer 28.09; thermometer 68 degrees at 5 p.m. Hope
to have rain, as without it we cannot proceed.
15th.
Finished the hut, pugging it at the ends, and making the roof better. Now
it is in good order, and we are quite safe from attack at night, should
they attempt it again, which I think is doubtful, as they got too warm a
reception last time. I intend going with Windich to-morrow easterly in
search of water. Barometer 29.09 at 5 p.m.; thermometer 62 degrees.
16th.
Left the Weld Springs with Windich and a pack-horse carrying fourteen
gallons of water. Steered South-East for twelve miles over spinifex,
after which we got into a grassy ravine, which we followed along three
miles, passing some fine clay-holes which would hold plenty of water if
it rained. We then turned East-North-East for twelve miles over spinifex,
miserable country, when we struck the tracks of my brother and Windich on
their return, June 13th. We followed along them South-East for four
miles, and then South-East to a bluff range about eighteen miles, which
we reached at sundown. Spinifex generally, a few grassy patches
intervening, on which were numbers of kangaroos. We camped close to the
bluff, and gave the horses one gallon of water each out of the cans. Just
when the pannicans were boiled, heard noises which we thought were
natives shouting. We instantly put out the fire and had our supper in the
dark, keeping a sharp look-out for two hours, when we were convinced it
must have been a native dog, as there were hundreds all round us, barking
and howling. The weather is heavy and cloudy, and I hope to get some rain
shortly. We slept without any fire, but it was not very cold.
17th.
As the horses did not ramble far, we got off early and followed along and
through the ranges East-South-East about, the distance being eighteen
miles. Passed some splendid clay-pans quite dry. The flats around the
ranges are very grassy, and look promising eastwards, but we cannot find
any water. Kangaroos and birds are numerous. Being about seventy miles
from camp, we cannot go any farther, or our horses will not carry us
back. We therefore turned, keeping to the south of our outward track, and
at about eleven miles found some water in some clay-holes, and camped at
about 3 o'clock in the afternoon. There is sufficient water to last the
party about a week, but not more. The weather is dark and threatening,
and I believe there will be rain to-night, which will be a great boon,
and will enable us to travel along easily. It is in circumstances such as
I am at present placed that we are sure to implore help and assistance
from the hand of the Creator; but when we have received all we desire,
how often we forget to give Him praise!
18th.
Rained lightly last night, and we had a nice shower this morning. Yet did
not get very wet, as we had our waterproofs. Fearing that the rain would
obliterate the tracks and the party be unable to follow them, I decided
to return towards Weld Springs. Therefore followed along our outward
track, but found, to our sorrow, that there had been no rain west of our
last night's camp. We pushed along and got within eighteen miles of Weld
Springs and camped without water, having left the cans behind, thinking
we should find plenty of rain-water.
19th.
We had to go about two miles for our horses this morning; after which, we
made all haste towards Weld Springs, as I knew the party would be coming
on along our tracks to-day. When we were within six miles of the spring
we met the party, but, being obliged to take our horses to water, I
decided that all should return and make a fresh start to-morrow. The
natives had not returned to the attack during our absence, so I conclude
they do not intend to interfere with us further. On our way to-day we
passed some fine rock holes, but all were quite dry. Rain is very much
required in this country.
20th.
Started at 9.30 a.m., and steering South-East towards the water found on
the 17th for twenty-four miles; thence East-South-East for eight miles,
and camped without water on a small patch of feed. The last ten miles was
over clear spinifex country of the most wretched description. The country
all the way, in fact, is most miserable and intolerable. Barometer 28.50;
thermometer 56 degrees at 8 p.m.; latitude 25 degrees 13 minutes 36
seconds South by meridian altitude of Arcturus. Left the rum-keg and a
pair of farrier's pincers in the stone hut at Weld Springs.
21st (Sunday).
Got an early start, and continued on East-South-East. At about three
miles reached a spring on a small patch of feed in the spinifex and
camped, but found, after digging it out, that scarcely any water came in.
I have no doubt that it will fill up a good deal in the night; but, our
horses being thirsty, I re-saddled and pushed on to the water about
sixteen miles ahead, which we reached at 4 p.m. There is not more than a
week's supply here, therefore I intend going ahead with Pierre to-morrow
in search of more. The country ahead seems promising, but there is a
great deal of spinifex almost everywhere. From Weld Spring to our present
camp is all spinifex, with the exception of a few flats along short
gullies. Latitude 25 degrees 22 minutes 50 seconds South, longitude about
121 degrees 57 minutes East. Barometer 28.50; thermometer 62 degrees at 5
p.m.
22nd.
Left camp in company with Tommy Pierre, with a pack-horse carrying
fifteen gallons of water. Steered South-East for four miles, then east
for about eight miles over fine grassy country, then South-East towards a
high range about twenty-five miles distant. After going about three
miles, struck a flat trending South-South-East, which we followed down
about four miles, passing two small clay-holes with water in them; then
we struck South-East for four miles, and came to a large brook trending
South-East, which we followed along until it lost itself on the plain
about six miles. Fine grassy country all the way, and game abundant.
There were a few gallons of water here and there in the brook, but none
large enough to camp at. I then turned east, and at about seven miles
reached the hill seen this morning, which I named Mount Moore, after Mr.
W.D. Moore, of Fremantle, a subscriber to the Expedition Fund. Ascending
the hill we had an extensive view to the South-West, South, and
South-East. Fine grassy country all round and very little spinifex. To
the south about nine miles we saw a lake, and farther off a remarkable
red-faced range, which I named Timperley Range, after my friend Mr. W.H.
Timperley, Inspector of Police, from whom I received a great deal of
assistance before leaving Champion Bay. A remarkable peak, with a reddish
top, bore South-South-East, which I named Mount Hosken, after Mr. M.
Hosken, of Geraldton, a contributor to the expedition. I made south
towards the lake, and at one mile and a half came on to a gully in the
grassy plain, in which we found abundance of water, sufficient to last
for months. We therefore camped for the night, with beautiful feed for
the horses. I was very thankful to find so much water and such fine
grassy country, for, if we had not found any this trip, we should have
been obliged to retreat towards Weld Springs, the water where I left the
party being only sufficient to last a few days. The country passed over
to-day was very grassy, with only a little spinifex, and it looks
promising ahead. Distance from camp about thirty-five miles.
LAKE AUGUSTA.
23rd.
Steering south for about eight miles, we reached the lake, which I named
Lake Augusta. The water is salt, and about five miles in circumference.
Grassy country in the flat; red sand-hills along the shore. It appeared
deep, and swarmed with ducks and swans. Pierre shot two ducks, after
which we pushed on North-East for about twelve miles to a low rocky
bluff, which we ascended and got a view of the country ahead--rough
broken ranges to the east and south. We continued on east for six miles,
when, on approaching a rocky face of a range, we saw some natives on top
of it, watching us. Approaching nearer, we heard them haranguing and
shouting, and soon afterward came within thirty yards of one who was
stooping down, looking intently and amazedly at us. I made friendly
signs, but he ran off shouting, and apparently much afraid. He and
several others ran up and joined the natives on the cliff summit, and
then all made off. We turned, and steering East-North-East for six miles,
and then east for about fourteen miles, the last few miles being
miserable spinifex country, we camped, with poor feed, amongst some
spinifex ranges. A good deal of grassy country the first part of the day.
Kangaroos very numerous, and emus also. Evidences of the natives being in
great numbers.
24th.
Ascended a red-topped peak close to our bivouac and got a view ahead. A
salt lake was visible a few miles to the east, towards which we
proceeded. Passing along samphire flats and over red sand-hills, we got
within a mile of the lake. The country close to it not looking promising,
I determined to turn our faces westward towards the party. Steering a
little south of west for three miles, we struck a large brook trending
North-East into the lake, and, following it up a mile, found a fine pool
of fresh water, with splendid feed. This is very fortunate, as it is a
good place to bring the party to. Elated with our success, we continued
on westerly, passing some fine rock water-holes, half full of water, and
at twenty miles from the pool we found a springy hole, with plenty of
water in it, within a few hundred yards of our outward track. We had
missed it going out; it is in the centre of a very fine grassy plain.
Kangaroos and emus numerous, also natives. Giving the horses water, we
pushed on for twelve miles and camped on some fine grassy flats. Every
appearance of rain.
ANOTHER NATIVE.
25th.
Having finished all our rations last night, I shot two kangaroos while out
for the horses, and brought the hind quarters with us. Continuing westerly
for about ten miles, we reached the water, our bivouac on the 22nd. I
awaited the arrival of the party, which should reach here this morning. At
two o'clock heard gunshots, and saw my brother and Windich walking towards
us. Found that they had missed our tracks and were camped about a mile
higher up the gully, at some small clay-holes. We got our horses and
accompanied them back. Rained this evening more than we have had before.
Very cloudy. Barometer 28.18, but inclined to rise. Everything had gone on
well during my absence.
26th.
Did not travel to-day, as there was good feed and water at this camp. My
brother, Windich, and Pierre rode over to Lake Augusta to get some
shooting, and returned in the afternoon with a swan and two ducks. On
their way out they saw a native and gave him chase. He climbed up a small
tree, and, although Windich expended all his knowledge of the languages
of Australia to get him to talk, he would not open his lips, but remained
silent; they therefore left him to get down from the tree at his leisure.
Re-stuffed some of the pack-saddles. Marked a tree F 50, being our 50th
camp from Geraldton. Barometer 28.40; thermometer 50 degrees at 6 p.m.;
weather cleared off and fine night. Latitude 25 degrees 37 minutes 38
seconds South; longitude about 122 degrees 22 minutes East.
27th.
Erected a cairn of stones on South-East point of Mount Moore, after which
continued on and reached the spring found by me on the 24th; distance
fifteen miles. The last six miles poor spinifex country. Fine and grassy
round spring. Barometer 28.54; thermometer 56 degrees at 7 p.m.; latitude
25 degrees 37 minutes 53 seconds by Arcturus. Marked a tree F 51, being
the 51st camp from Geraldton.
28th (Sunday).
Rested at spring. Found the variations to be 1 degree 52 minutes West by
azimuths.
29th.
Reached the pool found by me on the 24th; distance seventeen miles.
Latitude 25 degrees 41 minutes 22 seconds South; longitude about 122
degrees 53 minutes East. Splendid feed round camp. Marked a tree F 52,
being the 52nd from Geraldton. About two miles west of camp I ascended a
remarkable hill and took a round of bearings, naming it Mount Bates,
after the Secretary of the Royal Geographical Society.
FARING SUMPTUOUSLY.
30th.
Left camp F 52 in company with Tommy Windich, taking one pack-horse, to
find water ahead eastward. Steered East-North-East over salt marshes and
spinifex sand-hills, and at about eleven miles found water in some
clay-pans, and left a note telling my brother to camp here to-morrow
night. Continued on and found several more fine water-pans and fine
grassy patches. Ascended a range to get a view ahead. In every direction
spinifex, more especially to the north; to the east some low ranges were
visible, about twenty miles distant, towards which we proceeded. On our
way we surprised an emu on its nest and found several eggs; we buried
four with a note stuck over them, for the party to get when they came
along, and took three with us. Soon after this the horse Windich was
riding (Mission) gave in, and we had great difficulty in getting him
along. I was much surprised at this, for I considered him the best horse
we had. We reached the range and found water in some of the gorges, but
no feed; spinifex everywhere. We continued on till dark, passing some
natives' fire, which we did not approach, then camped with scarcely any
feed. I hope to have better luck to-morrow. We have found plenty of
water, but no feed; this is better than having no water and plenty of
feed. We had one wurrung, four chockalotts, and three emu eggs, besides
bread and bacon, for tea to-night, so we fared sumptuously.
July 1st.
Got off early and continued easterly to a low stony range three miles
off, over spinifex sandy country. Found a rock water-hole and gave our
horses a drink. Continuing about east to other ranges, which we followed
along and through, and from range to range, spinifex intervening
everywhere, and no feed, a few little drops of water in the gullies, but
not sufficient for the party to camp at. When we had travelled about
fifteen miles, we turned north for three miles, and again east, through
and over some ranges. No feed and scarcely any water. Saw a range about
twenty-five miles farther east--spinifex all the way to it. Mission being
again knocked up, although carrying only a few pounds, we camped about
three o'clock at a small hole of water in a gully--only large enough to
serve the party one night--the first to-day that would even do that. The
last forty miles was over the most wretched country I have ever seen; not
a bit of grass, and no water, except after rain; spinifex everywhere. We
are very fortunate to have a little rain-water, or we could not get
ahead.
2nd.
Steered towards the range seen yesterday a little south of east, and,
after going twelve miles, my horse completely gave in, Mission doing the
same also. I had hard work to get them along, and at last they would not
walk. I gave them a rest and then drove them before me, following Windich
till we reached the range. Found a little water in a gully, but no feed.
Spinifex all the way to-day; most wretched country. We ascended the
range, and the country ahead looks first-rate; high ranges to the
North-East, and apparently not so much spinifex. We continued North-East,
and after going four miles camped on a patch of feed, the first seen for
the last sixty miles. I was very tired, having walked nearly twenty
miles, and having to drive two knocked-up horses. I have good hopes of
getting both feed and water to-morrow, for, if we do not, we shall be in
a very awkward position.
3rd.
Soon after starting, found a little water in a gully and gave our horses
a drink. Ascended a spur of the range and had a good view ahead, and was
very pleased with the prospect. Steering North-East towards a large range
about fifteen miles off, we found a great deal of spinifex, although the
country generally was thickly wooded. I rode Mission, who went along
pretty well for about twelve miles, when Williams gave in again, and
Mission soon did the same. For the next six miles to the range we had
awful work, but managed, with leading and driving, to reach the range;
spinifex all the way, and also on the top of it. I was very nearly
knocked up myself, but ascended the range and had a very extensive view.
Far to the north and east the horizon was as level and uniform as that of
the sea; apparently spinifex everywhere; no hills or ranges could be seen
for a distance of quite thirty miles. The prospect was very cheerless and
disheartening. Windich went on the only horse not knocked up, in order to
find water for the horses. I followed after his tracks, leading the two
poor done-up horses. With difficulty I could get them to walk. Over and
through the rough range I managed to pull them along, and found
sufficient water to give them a good drink, and camped on a small patch
of rough grass in one of the gorges. Spinifex everywhere; it is a most
fearful country. We cannot proceed farther in this direction, and must
return and meet the party, which I hope to do to-morrow night. We can
only crawl along, having to walk and lead the horses, or at least drag
them. The party have been following us, only getting a little water from
gullies, and there is very little to fall back on for over fifty miles. I
will leave what I intend doing until I meet them. I am nearly knocked up
again to-night; my boots have hurt my feet, but I am not yet
disheartened.
4th.
We travelled back towards the party, keeping a little to the west of our
outward track; and after going five miles found some water in clay-holes,
sufficient to last the party about one night. Two of our horses being
knocked up, I made up my mind to let the party meet us here, although I
scarcely know what to do when they do arrive. To go forward looks very
unpromising, and to retreat we have quite seventy miles with scarcely any
water and no feed at all. The prospect is very cheerless, and what I
shall do depends on the state of the horses, when they reach here. It is
very discouraging to have to retreat, as Mr. Gosse's farthest point west
is only 200 miles from us. We finished all our rations this morning, and
we have been hunting for game ever since twelve o'clock, and managed to
get a wurrung and an opossum, the only living creatures seen, and which
Windich was fortunate to capture.
LOSS OF HORSES.
5th (Sunday).
Early this morning Windich and I went in search of more water. Having
nothing to eat, it did not take us long to have a little drink of water
for our breakfast. Went a few miles to the North-West and looked all
round, but only found a small rock water-hole. Windich got an opossum out
of a tree. We returned about twelve o'clock and then ate the opossum. At
about one o'clock we saddled up and made back towards the party, which I
thought should have arrived by this time. When about two miles we met
them coming on; they had been obliged to leave two horses on the way,
knocked up, one named Fame, about twenty-four miles away, and Little
Padbury about eight miles back; all the others were in pretty good trim,
although very hungry and tired. We returned to the little water, which
they soon finished. I was glad to meet the party again, although we were
in a bad position. Intend returning to-morrow to the range left by the
party this morning, where there is enough water for half a day, and
search that range more thoroughly. The horses will have a good night's
feed and I have every confidence that, if the worst comes, we shall be
able to retreat to a place of safety. Found my brother in good spirits.
We soon felt quite happy and viewed the future hopefully. I was sorry to
lose the horses, but we cannot expect to get on through such a country
without some giving in. The country is so dry; the season altogether dry,
otherwise we could go ahead easily. A good shower of rain is what is
required. It has been very warm the last three days, and I hope much for
a change. Read Divine Service. Latitude 25 degrees 31 minutes 45 seconds
South, longitude about 124 degrees 17 minutes East. Barometer 28.62 at 4
p.m.
6th.
Retreated back to the water left by the party in the range fourteen miles
South-West. At one mile we gave the horses as much water as they required
from some rock holes. After reaching the water and having dinner, Pierre
and myself, and my brother and Windich, started off on foot to examine
the range for water, but could find only a few gallons. I think there
will be sufficient water to last us here to-morrow, and we will give the
country a good searching. If we fail, there must be a retreat westwards
at least seventy miles. Barometer 28.53; thermometer 64 degrees at 5 p.m.
WATER FOUND.
7th.
Early this morning Pierre and I and my brother and Windich started off in
search of water, as there was scarcely any left at camp. Unless we are
fortunate enough to find some, retreat is inevitable. Pierre and myself
searched the range we were camped in, while Windich and my brother went
further south towards another range. We searched all round and over the
rough ranges without success, and reached camp at one o'clock. To our
relief and joy learnt that my brother and Windich had found water about
five miles South-South-East, sufficient to last two or three weeks. This
was good news; so after dinner we packed up and went over to the water.
The feed was not very good, but I am truly thankful to have found it, as
a retreat of seventy miles over most wretched country was anything but
cheering. Barometer 28.52; thermometer 70 degrees at 5 p.m.; latitude 25
degrees 43 minutes 8 seconds by Arcturus.
8th.
Rested at camp. Devoted the day to taking sets of lunar observations.
There is very little feed about this water, and to-morrow my brother and
Pierre go on a flying trip ahead. It is very warm to-day, and has been
for the last week. Barometer 28.59; thermometer 79 degrees at 5 p.m.
9th.
Very cloudy this morning, although the barometer is rising. My brother and
Pierre started on the flying trip; intend following on their tracks on
Saturday. Could not take another set of lunars on account of the cloudy
weather. Was very busy all day repairing pack-saddles and putting
everything in good order. Did away with one pack-saddle, and repaired the
others with the wool. Shall leave here with twelve pack-horses, and three
running loose and two riding, besides the two that are on flying trip.
Barometer 28.59 thermometer 69 degrees at 5 p.m.
10th.
Finished repairs and got everything ready for a good start to-morrow
morning, when we will follow my brother's and Pierre's tracks. Cloudy
day, but barometer does not fall. Marked a tree F 59, being our 59th
bivouac from Geraldton. Hung up on the same tree four pack-bags and one
pack-saddle frame. Barometer 28.56; thermometer 74 degrees at 5 p.m.
Tommy Windich shot a red kangaroo this afternoon, and also found a fine
rock water-hole about one mile North-East of camp.
11th.
Followed on the tracks of my brother and Pierre, south seven miles to a
rough broken range--spinifex and rough grass all the way. Thence we
turned South-East for three miles; then North-East and East over most
wretched spinifex plains for nine miles, when we got on to a narrow
grassy flat, and, following it along about four miles, came to some water
in a clay-pan, sufficient for the night, and camped. With the exception
of this narrow flat the country passed over to-day is most miserable and
worthless, and very dusty. Another hot day. Barometer 28.70; thermometer
67 degrees at 5 p.m.; latitude 25 degrees 52 minutes 30 seconds South.
12th (Sunday.).
Our horses finished all the water. We got off early, and, steering east,
followed my brother's and Pierre's tracks for eight miles, when we
reached a low rise, and a fine rock water-hole holding over a hundred
gallons of water. While we were watering our horses we heard gunshots,
and soon beheld my brother and Pierre returning. They had good news for
us, having found some springs about twenty-five miles to the eastward.
They had seen many natives; but for an account of their proceedings I
insert a copy of his journal. Barometer 28.60; thermometer 60 degrees. We
camped for the day. Latitude 25 degrees 53 minutes 23 seconds South. Read
Divine Service.