Explorations in Australia - John Forrest
A. FORREST'S JOURNAL.
July 10th.
Steered east from the rock hole for the first fifteen miles, over clear
open sand-plains and red sand-hills covered with spinifex; then
South-South-East for ten miles over similar country to a rough range;
after going nearly all round it only found about one gallon of water. As
my horse was very tired, I almost gave up all hopes of finding any, as it
would take us all our time to get back; however, I went South-East for
seven miles further, and found about fifty gallons in a rock hole, but
not a blade of grass near it. As it was nearly dark, and no feed near, I
bore south for a low range about five miles distant, and found a little
feed but no water, and camped. My horse completely gave in; I had great
difficulty in getting him to the range.
11th.
Again bore west on our return to meet the party. After going seven miles
we saw a beautiful piece of feeding country--the first we had seen for
the last 130 miles--and after looking for water, and our fondest hopes
beginning to fail, we at last followed what seemed to be the largest
gully to its head, when we were gratified in beholding abundance of
water, with several springs, and good feed in the flats below. My horse
was completely knocked up, and I was glad to be able to give him a rest.
After being an hour here, Pierre, who is always on the look-out, saw two
natives, fully armed and in war costume, making for us. I was soon on my
legs and made towards them, but as soon as they saw us they began to move
off, and were soon out of sight in the thicket. At two o'clock continued
on West-North-West for twelve miles, camped in a thicket, and, after
taking off our saddles and making a fire, were very much surprised to
find a party of eight or nine natives going to camp close to us, and a
number more coming down the hill. As it was just dark we thought it best
to move on a few miles, which we did after dark. I believe, myself, they
intend attacking us after dark.
A. FORREST.
13th.
Steering straight for the water found by my brother, about
East-South-East for twenty-five miles, over most miserable spinifex
country, without a break. Just before we got to the water Windich shot an
emu. We saw two natives, who made off. Many fires in every direction.
Latitude 26 degrees 5 minutes 10 seconds South, longitude about 124
degrees 46 minutes East. Fine water at this place. I have no doubt water
is always here. I named it the Alexander Spring, after my brother, who
discovered it. Abundance of water also in rock holes.
14th.
Rested at Alexander Spring. Eating emu was our chief occupation to-day, I
think. Weather cloudy. Barometer 28.75; thermometer 60 degrees at 5 p.m.
NATIVES' GRAVES.
15th.
Rested at Alexander Spring. Went for a walk to a flat-topped hill about
South-South-East 50 chains from camp, which I have since named Mount
Allott, and placed a cairn on it; another hill close by I named Mount
Worsnop, after respectively the Mayor and Town Clerk of Adelaide. Found
two natives' graves close to camp; they were apparently about two feet
deep, and covered with boughs and wood; they are the first I have ever
seen in all my travels to the eastward in Australia, and Windich says he
has never come across one before either. We also found about a dozen
pieces of wood, some six feet long and three to seven inches wide, and
carved and trimmed up. All around were stones put up in the forked trees.
I believe it is the place where the rite of circumcision is performed.
Barometer 28.84; thermometer 60 degrees at 5 p.m.
16th.
Left Alexander Spring, in company with Windich, to look for water ahead.
Steered east for twelve miles, over spinifex sand-hills with some
salt-marsh flats intervening. We then turned South-East for seven miles
to some cliffs, and followed them along east about one mile and a half,
when we saw a clear patch a little to the North-East, on reaching which
we found a fine rock water-hole holding over 100 gallons of water. We had
a pannican of tea, and gave our horses an hour and a half's rest. Left a
note for my brother, advising him to camp here the first night. We
continued on a little to the south of east for about fifteen miles over
spinifex plains, when we camped on a small patch of feed. Saw a fire
about three quarters of a mile south of our camp, and supposed that
natives were camped there.
17th.
Early this morning we proceeded to where we saw the fire last night, but
could not find any natives: it must have been some spinifex burning. We
continued about east for two miles; found a rock water-hole holding about
fifty gallons, and had breakfast. After this, continued on a little south
of east for twelve miles, when we turned more to the north, searching
every spinifex rise that had a rocky face, first North and then
North-West and West, all over the country, but not over any great extent,
as my horse (Brick) was knocked up. About one o'clock we found enough to
give the horses a drink, and to make some tea for ourselves. We saw some
low cliffs to the north, and proceeding towards them we saw ahead about
North-North-East a remarkable high cliff. I therefore decided to make for
it. I had to walk and drive my horse before me, and before we reached the
cliff we had hard work to get him to move. When we got close we were
rejoiced to see cliffs and gorges without end, and descending the first
hollow found a fine rock hole containing at least 250 gallons. We
therefore camped, as it was just sundown. I am very sanguine of finding
more water to-morrow, as our horses will soon finish this hole. There was
very little feed about the water.
SEARCHING FOR WATER.
18th.
This morning we began searching the ranges for water. First tried
westerly, and searched some fine gullies and gorges, but without success.
My horse soon gave in again, and I left him on a patch of feed and
continued the search on foot. I had not walked a quarter of a mile before
I found about 200 gallons in a gully, and, following down the gully, we
found a fine pool in a sandy bed, enough to last a month. We were
rejoiced at our good fortune, and, returning to where we left the horse,
camped for the remainder of the day. There is not much feed anywhere
about these cliffs and gullies, but as long as there is plenty of water
the horses will do very well. To-morrow I intend going back to meet the
party, as the way we came was very crooked, and I hope to save them many
miles. It is certainly a wretched country we have been travelling through
for the last two months, and, what makes it worse, the season is an
exceptionally dry one; it is quite summer weather. However, we are now
within 100 miles of Mr. Gosse's farthest west, and I hope soon to see a
change for the better. We have been most fortunate in finding water, and
I am indeed very thankful for it.
19th (Sunday).
Started back to meet the party, leaving old Brick hobbled, and my saddle,
rug, etc., hidden in a tree. After travelling about twenty miles, met the
party coming all right. Everything had gone on well during my absence.
They had slept last night at the rock hole, where we stayed on the 16th,
and found sufficient water for the horses in it. The note I left had been
taken away by the natives, who were very numerous about there. Many
tracks were seen, following mine and Windich's for several miles. The
party had not, however, seen any of them. They were rejoiced to hear of
the water ahead, and we steered for it, keeping to the west of our return
route to search some cliffs on the way for water. After travelling nine
miles we camped without water, on a grassy flat close to some cliffs;
most miserable spinifex country all day; this is the first grass seen.
Walked over twenty miles to-day myself.
20th.
Steered North-East straight for the water found on the 18th for fourteen
miles; reached it and camped. Found the horse Brick I left behind, and
saddle, rug, etc., as we left them. Horses were very thirsty, but there
is plenty of water for them. Feed is rather scarce. I named this creek
and pool after the Honourable Arthur Blyth, Chief Secretary of South
Australia.
21st.
Rested at camp. I took observations for time, intending to take several
sets of lunars, but the day was cloudy, and I only managed to get one.
Intend going ahead to-morrow in search of water.
22nd.
Started in company with Pierre to look for water ahead, steered a little
north of east for about twelve miles to the points of the cliffs, and
ascended a peak to get a view ahead. The line of cliff country ran
North-East, and to the east, spinifex undulating country; nevertheless,
as I wished to get a view of some of the hills shown on Mr. Gosse's map,
I bore East and East-South-East for over thirty miles, but could not find
a drop of water all day, and we had come nearly fifty miles. Camped on a
small patch of feed. Very undulating spinifex country, and no place that
would hold water, even after rain, for more than a day or two.
23rd.
Decided not to go any further, although I much wished to get a view
further to the east, but our horses would have enough to do to carry us
back. Steered north for a few miles, and then North-West for twenty
miles, thence West-South-West to camp, which we reached after dark, not
having had any water for ourselves or horses since we left it yesterday
morning. The weather was very warm, and our horses were done up when they
reached camp. On our return we got a fine view to the North-East, which
looks more promising. My brother and Windich intend going to-morrow in
that direction in search of water.
24th.
My brother and Windich started in search of water. We rested at camp.
Took lunar observations, but did not get results which I care much to
rely on, owing to the distances being too great.
25th.
Rested at camp. My brother and Windich did not return, so I have good
hopes that they have found water ahead. Took several sets of lunars this
evening. Barometer 28.80 at 5 p.m.; warm weather.
26th (Sunday).
Rested at camp. My brother and Windich returned late this evening, having
been over sixty miles to the East-North-East, and having found only one
small rock water-hole with water in it. Many rock holes had been seen,
but all dry. They had met several natives. One woman and child they had
caught and talked to. She did not seem frightened, and ate readily the
damper and sugar given her. The country appears more parched than it has
been, which I had thought scarcely possible. A range and flat-topped hill
were seen about fifteen miles to the east of their farthest point, but
they were unable to reach it. Barometer 28.70; fine.
27th.
Rested at Blyth Pool. Intend going a flying trip to-morrow. Worked out
several lunar observations, and the position of Blyth Pool is in latitude
26 degrees 1 minute, 50 seconds South, longitude 125 degrees 27 minutes
East. Barometer 28.72; thermometer 67 degrees at 5 p.m.
28th.
Left camp in company with Windich to look for water ahead, taking a
pack-horse and ten gallons of water, besides two small tins for our own
use. Steered North-East nearly along my brother's tracks for twenty
miles, and reached the water in the rock hole seen by him, and had
dinner. In the afternoon continued on a little south of east for about
seven miles. Camped without water for the horses on a small patch of old
feed. The weather is dark and cloudy, and there is much thunder about. I
expect rain this evening; if it comes it will be a great boon, and will
enable us to travel on easily.
TODD RANGE.
29th.
Rained lightly during the night; my rug got wet. Thinking we could get
plenty of water ahead, I left the drums and water, as the horses would
not drink. We steered about east over miserable spinifex country, and cut
my brother's return tracks. Passed a rock hole seen by him, and found
only a few pints of water in it, proving to us that very little rain had
fallen. We sighted the range and hill seen by my brother, and reached it
at sundown. I have named it the Todd Range, and the highest hill, which
is table-topped, I have named Mount Charles, after Mr. C. Todd, C.M.G.,
Postmaster-General of South Australia. No sign of water, and apparently
very little rain has fallen here last night. Found an old natives'
encampment, and two splendid rock holes quite dry; if full they would
hold 700 or 800 gallons. Was very disappointed at this, and it being now
after dark we camped without water for the horses, having travelled over
forty miles. Before we reached the range we had most miserable spinifex
sand-hills. Scarcely any feed in the range, and spinifex everywhere. What
grass there is must be over two years old.
30th.
Very thick fog this morning. We bore north for four or five miles, and
then South-East for about five miles, when we got a fine view to the
east, and could see some hills, which are no doubt near Mr. Gosse's
farthest west. They bore South-East about eighteen miles distant. I could
not go on to them, as I was afraid the party would be following us, on
the strength of the little rain we had the night before last.
Reluctantly, therefore, we turned westward, and soon after came to an old
native encampment with a rock hole quite dry, which would hold 1000
gallons if full. It must be a long while since there has been rain, or it
would not have been dry. We continued on, searching up and down and
through the Todd Ranges, finding enough for our horses from the rain.
Late in the afternoon we found another camping-place with four rock holes
quite empty, which, if full, would hold 3000 or 4000 gallons at least.
This was very disheartening, and we felt it very much. It appeared to us
that there was no water in this country at this season, and we felt it
was useless looking for it. We now decided to make back towards the
party; but being uncertain that my brother would not follow, on the
strength of the rain, determined to bear South-West until we struck our
outward tracks. After going six miles, camped without water, and nothing
but some old coarse scrub for the horses. One good shower of rain would
enable us to get over this country easily; but in this season, without
rain, it is quite impossible to move a number of horses.
A NATIVE HUSBAND.
31st.
Steering about South-East towards our outward tracks, came across a
native with his wife and two children, the youngest about two years old.
As soon as they saw us, the man, who had a handful of spears, began
talking at us and then ran off (the eldest child following him), leaving
his wife and the youngest child to take care of themselves. The child was
carried on its mother's back, and hung on without any assistance. Thus
encumbered, the woman could not get away. She evidently preferred facing
any danger to parting with her child. Windich spoke to her, and she
talked away quietly, and did not seem much afraid. We could not
understand anything she said, so allowed her to follow her husband, who
certainly did not come up to our standard of gallantry. We continued on
until we reached our outward tracks, and I was much relieved to find that
the party had not gone on. We found a little water in a small rock hole,
and rested two hours, as our pack-horse (Little Brown) was knocked up. We
continued on about five miles, and camped on a patch of feed in a range,
without water. Little Brown was so knocked up that we had great
difficulty in getting him to walk.
August 1st.
Steering westerly for about eight miles, reached our bivouac of the 28th,
and gave our horses the water from the drums. Continued on, making
straight for camp; stayed two hours to give the horses a rest, and when
within fifteen miles of camp found a rock hole with about 100 gallons of
water in it. Little Brown completely gave in, and we were obliged to
leave him. Pushed on and reached the party a little after dark, and found
all well, having been absent five days, in which time we had travelled
about 200 miles.
2nd (Sunday).
My brother and Pierre went on a flying trip to the South-East in search
of water. Kennedy and myself went and brought Little Brown and
pack-saddle, etc., to camp. Windich shot an emu; saw about twenty.
Thermometer 95 degrees in sun during the day; barometer 28.62 at 5 p.m.
PREPARING FOR A STRUGGLE.
I now began to be much troubled about our position, although I did not
communicate my fears to any but my brother. We felt confident we could
return if the worst came, although we were over 1000 miles from the
settled districts of Western Australia. The water at our camp was fast
drying up, and would not last more than a fortnight. The next water was
sixty miles back, and there seemed no probability of getting eastward. I
knew we were now in the very country that had driven Mr. Gosse back. I
have since found it did the same for Mr. Giles. No time was to be lost. I
was determined to make the best use of it if only the water would last,
and to keep on searching. (Even now, months after the time, sitting down
writing this journal, I cannot but recall my feelings of anxiety at this
camp.) Just when the goal of my ambition and my hopes for years past was
almost within reach, it appeared that I might not even now be able to
grasp it. The thought of having to return, however, brought every feeling
of energy and determination to my rescue, and I felt that, with God's
help, I would even now succeed. I gave instructions to allowance the
party, so that the stores should last at least four months, and made
every preparation for a last desperate struggle.
3rd.
Rested at camp. My brother and Pierre did not return this evening, so I
concluded they must have found some water for their horses. Barometer
falling slowly; getting cloudy towards evening.
4th.
A light shower of rain this morning. Rested at camp. My brother and
Pierre returned this evening, having found a few small rock water-holes,
but not sufficient to shift on. They had been about fifty miles
East-South-East, and had passed over most miserable spinifex country the
whole way. They had not had any rain, not even the light shower we had
this morning. They had seen four natives, but did not get near enough to
talk to them. I intend going with Windich ahead to-morrow, in the hope
that rain may have fallen last night to the East-North-East. The weather,
which had looked threatening all day, cleared off this evening. Barometer
28.56.
THE BAKER RANGE.
5th.
Thinking that rain might have fallen to the North-East, I left camp with
Windich to ascertain, instructing my brother to follow on the 7th; before
leaving to bury some flour and everything that could be dispensed with,
and to carry all the drums full of water. He has since informed me that
he buried on left bank of brook, seven yards north of a small tree with a
tin plate nailed on it, on which is written, DIG 7 yds. N., two
pack-bags, containing 135 pounds flour, six leather water-bottles, two
tomahawks, one pick, one water canteen, one broken telescope, three emu
eggs, some girths and straps, one shoeing hammer, one pound of candles,
and left a lantern hanging on a tree. A bottle was also buried, with a
letter in it, giving the latitude and longitude of the camp, and a brief
outline of our former and future intended movements. We reached the rock
holes about North-East twenty miles, and were delighted to see them full,
besides plenty on the rocks. This was very encouraging, and after resting
two hours we pushed on East-North-East, to a range visited by my brother
on his last flying trip, and which I named the Baker Range, and the
highest point Mount Samuel, after Sir Samuel Baker, the great African
Explorer, and could see that lately rain had fallen, although much more
in some places than in others. Travelled till after dark through and over
spinifex plains, wooded with acacia and mulga scrub, and camped without
water and only a little scrub for the horses, having travelled nearly
forty miles.
6th.
Our horses strayed during the night. After we had found them we proceeded
to the Baker Range and found water in a gully on some rocks, and the rock
holes seen by my brother and Windich on their former trip had also a good
deal in them. I was greatly delighted at this; there must have been a
good shower or two here. Before reaching water Windich shot a turkey,
which we roasted and ate for breakfast, not having had any tea last
night. We rested here about two hours. Continuing on East-North-East for
about sixteen miles, came to the four large rock holes seen by Windich
and myself on our former trip. They were quite dry, but, as we suspected,
there was a good deal of water in a rocky gully close by. About two miles
before we reached here we passed a rock hole full of water, about sixty
gallons. I left a note telling my brother to camp here on Sunday night,
and to follow on our tracks on Monday. We continued on about five miles,
and camped not far from Mount Charles, without water for the horses; but
they were not thirsty. So far we have been most fortunate, although there
is very little to fall back on should we be unable to proceed; in fact,
as soon as the surface water dries up it will be impossible. We are,
however, three days in advance of the party, and if we can get enough for
our two riding-horses we shall be able to stop them before there is any
great danger, although we may lose some of the horses.
7th.
Steered South-South-East for about four miles to two large rock holes
seen by Windich and myself on our former trip, but found them quite dry,
as before. Continued on South-East towards the hills seen by us formerly,
and, after travelling about ten miles, got a fine view of the country,
which looked splendid. High hills and ranges as far as could be seen to
the south and east, and we thought all our troubles were over. We pushed
on about East-South-East to a high hill about ten miles off, over red
sand-hills covered with spinifex. Country of the most miserable
description. We reached the hill, which I named Mount Harvest, after
Colonel Harvest, the Acting-Governor of Western Australia at the time of
our departure, and who took a great interest in the expedition. We
ascended the hill; more ranges and hills were seen--in fact, the whole
country was one mass of hills and ranges to the south, South-East, and
east. We followed down gullies and over hills, passing two rock holes
dry, until after dark, but could not find any water. The country is most
beautifully grassed, and is a great relief after travelling over so many
hundreds of miles of spinifex; but the season is very dry, and all the
gullies are dry. We camped for the night without water for ourselves or
horses. I have since learnt that these ranges were seen by Mr. Giles, and
were named the Warburton Ranges.
SIGNS OF WHITE MEN.
8th.
Early this morning Windich and I went on foot to search the hills and
gullies close around, as our horses were knocked up for want of water. We
returned unsuccessful about 8 o'clock. Close to where we found our horses
we found a tree with the bark cut off one side of it with an AXE which
was sharp. We were sure it was done by a white man, as the axe, even if
possessed by a native (which is very improbable), would be blunt. We are
now in the country traversed by Mr. Gosse, although I am unable to
distinguish any of the features of the country, not having a map with me,
and not knowing the latitude. Should we find water, and the party reach
here, there will no doubt be little difficulty in distinguishing the
hills. The country certainly does not answer the description given of his
farther westward. However, I will leave our position geographically for
the present, and treat of what is of much more importance to us, namely,
the finding of water. We saddled our horses and continued our search
about South-East, over hills and along valleys--the distance or direction
I am unable to give--our horses scarcely moving, and ourselves parched
with thirst. The sun was very hot. At about noon we found some water in a
gully by scratching a hole, but it was quite salt. As our horses would
not drink it, it can be imagined how salt it was. We drank about a pint
of it, and Windich said it was the first time he ever had to drink salt
water. I washed myself in it, which refreshed me a little. Our horses
could not go much further without water, but we crawled along about
north, and shortly afterwards found a small rock hole in the side of a
large rough granite hill, with about five gallons of good water in it. We
had a good drink ourselves, put half a gallon into a canteen, and gave
the rest to the horses. From here our usual good fortune returned. We had
not gone far when Windich called me back and said he had found horses'
tracks, and sure enough there were the tracks of horses coming from the
westward. Windich took some of the old dung with him to convince our
companions that we had seen them. We followed westward along the tracks
for half a mile, when we found two or three small rock holes with water
in them, which our horses drank. Still bearing to the north we kept
finding little drops in the granite rocks--our old friend the granite
rock has returned to us again, after having been absent for several
hundred miles. We satisfied our horses, and rested a short time to have
something to eat, not having had anything for forty-eight hours. We bore
North-West, and soon afterwards found a fine rock hole of water in
granite rocks, sufficient to last the party a day. Plenty of water on
rocks, also, from recent rain here. We were rejoiced, as we now had a
place to bring the party to. But our good fortune did not end here:
continuing on westerly or a little north of it, we came on a summer
encampment of the natives, and found a native well or spring, which I
believe would give water if dug out. This may make a good depot if we
require to stay long in this neighbourhood. We were overjoyed; and I need
not add I was very thankful for this good fortune. When everything looked
at its worst, then all seemed to change for our benefit. We camped two
miles from the water.