Explorations in Australia - John Forrest
9th (Sunday).
Took the horses back to the water, and on our way there found a clay-pan
with a few hundred gallons of water in it. Started back to meet the
party, intending to await their arrival at the first range we came to on
our outward track. Steering a little north of west for fourteen miles, we
camped on west side of Mount Harvest, not having seen a drop of water on
our way. Luckily we brought nearly half a gallon with us, so shall be
able to manage until the party overtake us to-morrow. Our horses will be
very thirsty, but I will give them five gallons each out of the drums.
Shot a wurrung on our way, which we had for dinner. Found two fine rock
holes quite empty. There appears to have been no rain here, although
fifteen miles east there has been a good deal. I hope the change of moon
on the 11th will bring us some rain, as we shall then be able to travel
along easily. My personal appearance contrasts most strikingly with town
life--very dirty, and I may say ragged. I scarcely think my friends would
know me. Washing, or brushing one's hair is out of the question, unless
when resting at camp.
10th.
We stayed at our last night's bivouac until 12 o'clock, when we saddled
up and followed back along our outward tracks to meet the party, which we
expected to find this afternoon. About 3 o'clock met them coming on, all
well. They were all rejoiced to hear of the water ahead. We gave the
horses water out of the drums, and turned eastward with them. We reached
Mount Harvest by sundown, the party having travelled thirty miles, and
camped on grassy flat without water for the horses. Latitude 25 degrees
55 minutes 43 seconds South by Altair, longitude 126 degrees 32 minutes
East. Everything had gone on first-rate with the party. They had nearly
finished all the water at Mount Samuel, and in the Todd Range, so that we
cannot now turn back, even if we wished, unless with the risk of having
to go ninety or a hundred miles without water.
FINDING TRACKS.
11th.
Continued on to the water found ahead, and on our way saw some clay-holes
with water and satisfied the horses. When near the spring, saw natives'
tracks, and shortly afterwards a fire with a whole kangaroo roasting in
it. The natives had made off when they saw us, leaving their game
cooking. Continuing on, and passing the native well, we reached the
granite rocks, two miles from the spring, and camped. While having dinner
we saw two natives about a quarter of a mile from us, watching us; we
beckoned to them, and Windich and I approached them. As we neared them
they began talking and moving off slowly; we could not get close to them,
although they did not appear to be afraid of us. Some fine ranges are
visible from here South-East. Latitude of camp 25 degrees 54 minutes 53
seconds South, by meridian altitude of Altair. Marked a tree F 70, being
the 70th camp from Geraldton. Barometer 28.26 at 5 p.m. We are not in the
latitude of Mr. Gosse's track by fifteen miles, yet there are tracks only
about two miles south of us! I cannot account for this. The tracks may be
Mr. Giles's, as I cannot think Mr. Gosse could be out in his latitude.
12th.
Left camp with Tommy Windich to find water ahead, instructing my brother
to follow on to-morrow. We bore East-South-East for a few miles over
grassy flats towards some high hills, but, seeing what we supposed a good
spot for water, we turned east towards it, over miserable spinifex
sand-hills, and found some splendid granite rocks and holes, but not much
water--enough, however, to give the horses a drink. If there was rain,
there would be enough water here for a month or more. Near these rocks
found a tree resembling the figtree (Ficus Platypoda), with ripe fruit
about the size of a bullet, which tasted very much like a fig. I ate some
of the fruit, which was very good. Fine hills and ranges to the eastward,
and country very promising, and in many places beautifully grassed. After
resting two hours we pushed on about east, and, after going five miles
over spinifex sand-hills, came to a granite range and found two fine rock
holes, sufficient to satisfy the horses. Continuing on, we camped close
to a peaked granite hill, which I named Mount Elvire. No water for the
horses. Found the old horse-tracks, just before we camped, coming from
eastward. I cannot make them out to be Mr. Gosse's; they must be Mr.
Giles's. There appears to be a great number of horses', but am uncertain
if there are any camel-tracks.
IN SAFETY.
13th.
Found a rock hole with about forty gallons of water in it close to camp.
After watering our horses we followed along the old tracks, going nearly
North-East, and passed a gnow's nest, where they had apparently got out
eggs. Shortly afterwards found where the party had camped without water,
and continued on to some high hills and ranges; then we left them to
follow some emu tracks, which, after following up a gully and over a
hill, brought us to a fine spring of good water in a gully. We camped
here, and intend waiting for our party, which will reach here to-morrow.
We watched at the water for emus, and after waiting about four hours saw
two coming, one of which Windich shot. Fine grass, although old and dry,
down this gully. Ranges in every direction. The country contrasts
strikingly with what we have been travelling through for the last three
months. The party whose tracks we followed this morning have not been to
this spring, so they must have missed it. All my troubles were now over,
inasmuch as I felt sure we would accomplish our journey and reach the
settled districts of South Australia; although, as it afterwards proved,
we had many days of hard work and some privation yet to endure. Still the
country was much improved, and not altogether unknown. I then gave out
publicly to the party that we were now in safety, and in all human
probability in five or six weeks would reach the telegraph line. I need
not add how pleased all were at having at last bridged over that awful,
desolate spinifex desert.
14th.
Went to a hill close to camp, the highest in this neighbourhood, and
erected a pile of stones. About 1 o'clock the party arrived all safe.
They reported having seen three natives the day we left, and had induced
them to come to camp, and had given them damper and sugar and a red
handkerchief each; they did not remain long. Each had two spears, very
long and thick, and made out of three pieces spliced together, with large
barbs on them. The party had finished all the water on their way, the
horses yesterday having drank over ten gallons each. This afternoon I
took a round of angles and bearings from a pile of stones on the hill.
Marked a tree F 72, near spring, which I named Barlee Spring, after the
Honourable F.P. Barlee, Colonial Secretary of Western Australia, from
whom I have ever received much kindness and assistance, and who took a
great interest in this expedition. A remarkable hill bore
South-South-West from spring, which I named Mount Palgrave. Barlee Spring
is in longitude about 127 degrees 22 minutes East. Unable to get
latitude: too cloudy.
15th.
Left camp with Windich to look for water ahead, instructing my brother to
follow to-morrow. Steered East along the South side of a rocky range for
ten miles, when we ascended a hill to get a view ahead. About thirty
miles to east fine bold ranges are visible, also broken ranges from
North-East and round to South-East; they are no doubt the Cavanagh Ranges
of Mr. Gosse. About five miles ahead we saw some granite rocks, to which
we proceeded, and found a tremendous rock hole full of water; it was in
between two large rocks and completely shaded from the sun. As the
country east to the ranges appears to be all spinifex and red sand-hills,
I decided to remain here to-night and continue on in the morning. Left a
note telling my brother to camp here on Sunday night. In the afternoon
got a fine round of angles from granite rocks. The country passed over
to-day was along and through ranges which are no doubt the Barrow Ranges
of Mr. Gosse. The flats are very grassy, but the hills are covered with
spinifex. My brother marked a tree at this camp F 73, and observed the
latitude to be about 26 degrees 4 minutes, but was unable to get very
good observation on account of clouds. The Ficus Platypoda was also found
here, loaded with ripe fruit.
GILES'S CAMP.
16th (Sunday).
Steering about East-North-East towards the ranges, we passed over very
miserable spinifex plains and red sand-hills the whole way, about thirty
miles. After reaching the ranges we followed up a fine grassy wide flat,
splendidly grassed, although old; and on the flat were innumerable
horse-tracks--unmistakable evidence of horses being camped for months in
this neighbourhood. Kept on up the gully and flat for about a mile and a
half, when Windich found a gum-tree marked E. GILES OCT. 7, 73. My former
suspicions that Mr. Giles must have been in this neighbourhood were now
confirmed. Soon after we came on a cart-track, which rather astonished
us, and soon found that it must have belonged to Mr. Gosse, who also
camped close here. A deep, well-beaten track went along up the gully,
which we followed, knowing it was the daily track of the horses to the
water, and soon after found their old camp at a beautiful spring running
down the gully a quarter of a mile. A stock-yard had been built, and
gardens made, besides a large bush hut to shelter the party from the sun
as well as rain. Trenches were dug round the hut and tent, so that they
must have had rain. I should say Mr. Giles must have been camped here for
two or three months at least. We camped half a mile down the gully from
the spring. Mr. Gosse and Mr. Giles were within a few miles of each other
at the same time, and did not meet.
17th.
Went for a walk to examine the cart-tracks; found two tracks going east
and west. This convinced me that the cart belonged to Mr. Gosse, who I
knew had returned. Went to the top of a high hill to take angles, while
Windich tried to shoot a kangaroo. After a hard climb I reached the
summit, and had just commenced taking angles when I heard three shots,
and shortly after Windich cooeying. Looking round, I saw a native running
along about 300 yards from me. He disappeared in a hollow. Fearing that
Windich had been attacked by the natives I descended towards him as
quickly as possible, but could not see him. I looked about, keeping a
sharp look-out, expecting to be attacked, but could not find Windich. Sat
down a short time and finally made my way back to the horses, and, after
finding them, saddled one and started back to look for Windich. Found him
coming along with a kangaroo on his back, having shot three, but had not
seen any natives; he had been waiting for me a good while. After dinner I
went back to get my coat and a compass left at the foot of the hill, and
then again ascended the hill and got a fine round of angles. The rock is
very magnetic, and the compass is quite useless. Could see the dust from
the party coming across the spinifex sand-hills, and, descending, met
them just before sundown.
ANOTHER ENCOUNTER WITH NATIVES.
They reported having had an encounter with the natives on the 16th, and
having been followed by a number of armed natives for a long way. Finally
they had been compelled to fire on them, but had not killed any. They
were glad to hear of the spring found, and, continuing on, reached it
about half-past 6 o'clock. The spring is Fort Mueller of Mr. Giles, where
he was camped for a long while, and his most westerly permanent water. By
observation Fort Mueller is in latitude 26 degrees 11 minutes 30 seconds
South, and longitude by lunar observation 128 degrees East, the variation
being about 1 degree 25 minutes East by azimuths.
18th.
Rested at spring. Marked a tree sixty yards south of camp F 74, being
74th camp from Geraldton. Also erected a pile of stones on peak, thirty
chains West-South-West of camp, with a pole in centre, on which is
marked:
J. FORREST, AUGUST 17, '74.
Took four sets of lunars, which place spring in longitude 128 degrees
East of Greenwich.
19th.
Steering East-South-East along Mr. Gosse's track for about thirty-five
miles, over most miserable sandy hills and plains of spinifex, with the
exception of a few miles at first, along a grassy flat. Two rock holes
passed were quite dry. Camped without water on a grassy flat not far from
the ranges; hope to find water early to-morrow, as our horses are too
poor to go long without it. Was obliged to abandon police-horse Brick
to-day, as he was completely done up. Nothing but downright poverty is
the cause of his giving in; and the same in the case of Fame and Little
Padbury, which we abandoned over a month ago. They were poor when they
left, and have only had very dry grass ever since. It is a wonder to me
they all do not give in, as many are mere skeletons. Poor old Brick held
up as long as he could, but was forced to give in, and we had to leave
him to his solitary fate; he will probably go back to the spring (Fort
Mueller). Barometer 28.30; latitude 26 degrees 22 minutes 30 seconds
South.
20th.
Got a very early start, and continued on. At one mile found a sandy soak
in a gully, and by digging it out got sufficient water for all our
horses. Still proceeding onwards, following a gully for two miles, came
to Mr. Gosse's depot Number 13, at Skirmish Hill. A bullock had been
killed here, and the flesh jerked. Found a large white gum-tree marked
GOS. 13 at camp. All the water was gone. I, however, camped, and took our
horses to a place a mile west, where, by digging in the sand, we got
enough for them. Went with Pierre to the summit of Skirmish Hill, and
took angles. To the south, nothing but sand-hills and spinifex; to the
North-East the Tomkinson Ranges showed up and looked very remarkable and
promising. Marked a tree F 76, being 76th camp from Geraldton. Camp is in
latitude 26 degrees 23 minutes 28 seconds, longitude about 128 degrees 32
minutes East.
TOMKINSON RANGES.
21st.
Left camp at Skirmish Hill in company with Windich, instructing my
brother to follow to-morrow. Found a fine rock hole two miles from camp,
and followed along Mr. Gosse's track for twenty miles to the Tomkinson
Ranges, over most miserable sandy ridges, covered with spinifex. Fine
grassy flats along and through the ranges. We left the track to examine a
gully to the north, but could not find any water. Got on the track just
before dark and followed it along a few miles. Camped without water for
our horses on a fine flat of very old grass. Windich's horse completely
knocked up, and we had to walk and drive him before us this afternoon.
The day was excessively hot, and the horses are very thirsty. We have
only about a quart ourselves.
ELDER SPRINGS.
22nd.
Early this morning we continued on, Windich's horse scarcely able to
walk. After about ten miles, found a rock hole with three gallons of
water in it, which we gave to our horses. Followed Mr. Gosse's track to
see if there was any water about his depot Number 12, but we either
missed it or had not reached it. About noon Windich's horse could go no
farther, and mine was not much better. What was to be done? We nearly
finished what water we had with us. The party were coming on to-day, and
were depending on us to find water. I determined not to follow the track
any farther, but to search for water ourselves. The horses were unable to
move; we therefore decided to leave them and go for a search on foot.
Windich said he had seen emu tracks, and he thought they were making
south. We therefore started on foot. The sun's heat was excessive. About
3 o'clock returned unsuccessful, and finished what water we had with us.
What next to do was the question; no time was to be lost. Mr. Gosse's map
showed some gullies ahead, but whether there was any water in them was
questionable; he states, "Nearly all the waters discovered in the Mann
and Tomkinson Ranges were running when left, and from a considerable
height." It must have been a good season, and not like this. We decided
to go on foot to a gully about two miles north, which had white gums in
it. We started off and saw more emu tracks going and coming, also
natives' tracks. Windich shot a wurrung, which he said had lately drunk
water. When we reached the gully, many tracks were seen ascending it, and
we felt sure we should find water, and surely enough we soon reached a
most splendid spring, running down the gully half a mile. We were elated
and very thankful. Windich got a shot at an emu, but missed it. After
having a good drink we went back and got our horses, reaching the spring
with them after dark. They were very thirsty and completely done up. Mr.
Gosse missed this spring; probably there was water on the flats when he
was here, and he did not look much. Although his track is easily
followed, we had nearly got into serious difficulty by following it. Had
we not found this spring our position would be very critical, not having
any water for ourselves or horses, and the party in the same predicament.
I will be careful not to follow the track too far in future, but to trust
to our own resources and look for ourselves. We feel sure we passed water
this morning, as in one place we saw emu tracks and pigeons. The party
will reach here to-morrow, and I feel very thankful and relieved to have
such a fine spring to bring them to. The feed is good a mile down from
the spring, although it is very old and dry. There has not been any rain
to speak of since Mr. Gosse was here, nearly twelve months ago, as can be
seen by the cart-tracks crossing the gullies. I named this spring the
Elder Springs, after my friend the Honourable Thomas Elder, who has been
such a great supporter of exploration, and from whom I received a great
deal of kindness and attention.
23rd (Sunday).
Awaited the arrival of the party. Shot an emu; and, while skinning it,
heard a gun-shot, and soon after saw Kennedy coming on, walking. Found
that the party were only half a mile off. They had been very distressed
for water, and had left 120 pounds of flour and a pack-saddle five miles
back, Taylor's mare about three miles back, and Burges and his saddle two
miles back. When they saw my note, directing them to the water, they had
gone back and got Burges, and with great difficulty got him close to
camp, when he lay down and they left him. Windich and I started back on
foot at once with two buckets of water, and met Burges within a quarter
of a mile of camp, crawling along; we gave him the water and he then went
on to the spring. We went back and found Taylor's mare, and brought her
slowly to camp. We are now safe again, and I must give the horses a few
days' rest. The weather has been hot, and if we had not found this
spring, not more than five horses would have lasted out the day. I will
send back and get the flour, as it is only five miles off. The party were
all very glad to see such a fine spring, as their position was very
dangerous, having only three gallons of water with them altogether.
24th.
Rested at Elder Spring. Found the barometer had got broken, which I was
very sorry for. Worked out several lunars taken on the 11th at Giles's
camp.
25th.
Worked out the remainder of the lunars. Marked a large white gum-tree
close to camp, on left bank of Elder Springs, F 78, being the 78th camp
from Geraldton. Found camp to be in south latitude 26 degrees 15 minutes
10 seconds and longitude about 129 degrees 9 minutes East. My brother and
Pierre went back and brought up the flour left five miles back on the
23rd.
MOUNT JANE.
26th.
Went with Pierre to a high peak, which I named Mount Jane, about four
miles South-South-East from camp, and got a round of angles, and a fine
view of the country. To the east high ranges and grassy flats, but to the
south, and from South-East to west, nothing but level country with a few
low rises here and there, apparently sand-hills covered with
spinifex--most miserable country.
27th.
Left camp with Tommy Windich to look for water ahead, instructing my
brother to follow to-morrow. Steered east for four miles, when we struck
Mr. Gosse's cart-track. Followed along it a few miles, when we bore more
to the north; then in the direction of emu tracks, and passed along a
fine grassy flat with hundreds of kangaroos in every direction; also many
emu tracks. We were sure we were getting close to water. A little farther
on saw about twenty-five emus, and soon reached a spring in the brook,
and camped for dinner. Concluded to remain here the remainder of the day.
Went for a walk higher up the brook and found another spring, about one
mile from the first. Returned and took our horses up to it, as there was
better feed there. Left a note, telling the party to camp there also. In
a good season these flats must look magnificent; at this time they are
very dry, but there is a good deal of old grass on them. My brother
marked a tree at spring F 79, which he found to be in latitude 26 degrees
13 minutes. I named this spring Wilkie Spring, after the Honourable Dr.
Wilkie, the honorary treasurer of the Burke and Wills Exploration Fund,
who took such a lively interest in Australian Exploration.
28th.
Continued on eastward and soon struck Mr. Gosse's cart-track. Followed it
along about seven miles, passing Mount Davies, when we bore more to the
south. Following the direction of some natives' tracks, and after going
about two miles, found a native well in a gully, where water could be
procured by digging. Left a note telling my brother to dig it out and see
if he could get enough for the horses. We continued on about
East-North-East, and soon after shot a kangaroo and rested an hour for
dinner, after which we bore about North-East towards a gully and white
gums, and found it to be Nilens Gully of Mr. Gosse. Found his camp and a
white gum marked with a broad arrow, but no water. We followed along and
through the ranges, twisting and turning about, and at last found a
number of natives' tracks, making towards a gap, and, following along
them, found they led to a gorge and white gum gully, ascending which we
found water in some little springs. After watering our horses we returned
towards the party three miles and camped, intending to bring the party to
the spring to-morrow.
FRIENDLY NATIVES.
29th.
Returned about five miles and met the party coming on all right. They
reported having met about twenty natives yesterday, who were friendly,
and who came to them, first of all laying down their spears. They had
given them damper and a handkerchief. Pierre gave them two kylies. They
had three kangaroos roasting in their fire. When we were passing Nilens
gully I saw a native running, and, calling Windich, we went over and saw
five natives sitting on some rocks watching us. I went towards them; at
first they appeared hostile, but after talking at them and making signs
they began to be friendly and came down close to us. They were all armed
with spears. One of them gave me his spear, which was very blunt, and I
sharpened it for him. He made signs for me to give him the knife, but I
could not, as we were very short of knives. They were afraid at first
when I showed them how a horse could gallop, but soon were very pleased
and laughed heartily. Windich shot a chockalott and gave it to them. They
were amazed at seeing the bird drop, and were very pleased when it was
given to them, as they much prize the feathers of these birds. After this
we left them and continued on to the spring found yesterday, and camped.
Got plenty of water by digging a few holes in the springy places. Marked
a tree F 80 in gorge close to spring. Found spring to be in latitude 26
degrees 7 minutes 28 seconds South, longitude about 129 degrees 39
minutes east.
THE MANN RANGES.
30th (Sunday).
Rested at spring. Took bearings from hill close to spring, Mount Hardy
bearing north 117 degrees east magnetic, and Mount Davies north 253
degrees east magnetic. The Mann Ranges were also clearly visible about
ten miles off. In the afternoon Windich found a fine spring in a gully
about half a mile north of camp, at which he shot an emu. I named these
springs the Crowther Springs, after my friend Mr. Charles Crowther, of
Geraldton. Emus and kangaroos very numerous in these ranges.
31st.
Got an early start and took the horses to the water found by Windich
yesterday, where they could help themselves. Steered East-North-East
about, over level country; spinifex generally, studded with desert oaks,
with limestone and snail-shells on surface for about twenty miles.
Reached the Mann Ranges. Before we reached the ranges we struck Mr.
Gosse's track, and followed it along, and shortly came to a very large
and recent encampment of the natives. There must have been a hundred
camped here about a week ago. Found two small springs not far off, but
not strong enough to water all our horses; but we soon found some fine
springy pools in a gully about half a mile further on, where Mr. Gosse
also had been camped, and marked a tree with a broad arrow. I marked on
the same tree F 81, being our 81st camp from Geraldton. Mr. Gosse's
return track leaves his outward track at this spot. I intend following
his return track and make in to the telegraph line, down the Alberga, and
on to the Peake. There is abundance of water at this place, which I have
no doubt is permanent, as there are four springs within half a mile of
one another, but three are very small. Took bearings from a very high
range close by; Mount Davies, Mount Edwin, and Mount Hardy being visible.
The Mann Ranges are very high and rough, and are composed of reddish
granite. They are the highest ranges met with since leaving Mount Hale
and Mount Gould, on the Murchison. Found camp F 81 to be in latitude 26
degrees 3 minutes 20 seconds South by meridian altitude of Altair and
Vega, and longitude about 129 degrees 53 minutes East.