Explorations in Australia - John Forrest
September 1st.
Continuing about east along the foot of the Mann Ranges for about fifteen
miles, came to Mr. Gosse's bivouac of October 11th, but could find no
water; a well that had been dug in the sand was dry. Followed up the
gully about a mile, and came to a small spring, and camped. After
draining it out, found there was no supply, but were fortunate enough to
find some large rock holes with water--no doubt soakages from the
rocks--but they were in an almost inaccessible spot, and it was with
great difficulty we managed to water the horses. One horse fell and
nearly lost his life. Country passed over to-day was poorly grassed, and
spinifex patches here and there. Large and recent native encampments seen
in two places to-day. Latitude 26 degrees 4 minutes 45 seconds South.
Marked a tree F 82, close to our bivouac in bed of gully.
2nd.
Followed along south side of Mann Ranges over country pretty well grassed
for about sixteen miles, and reached Mr. Gosse's bivouac of October 12th.
Found a little water in a sandy hole, and a small spring about half a
mile higher up the gully. We had to carry the water from the spring in
drums, which was slow and hard work. When we had watered half of the
horses, Windich came, having found great pools of water in a large rocky
gully about a mile west; we therefore packed up again and went over to
the water. It was a very rough and rocky gully, and the horses had hard
work in getting up to it, but there was abundance when they reached it.
Pools of water, rock bottom; in fact, rock reservoirs, and fed by
springs. It was nearly night when we had finished watering. Windich shot
four ducks. Found camp to be in latitude 28 degrees 8 minutes South.
Marked a tree F 83, being 83rd camp from Geraldton.
ANOTHER ENCOUNTER WITH NATIVES.
3rd.
Got a late start, owing to the horses rambling. We continued on easterly
and reached Day's Gully, Mr. Gosse's Number 15 depot. The water was all
gone, and we had to proceed. Followed his track along two miles, when
Windich and I went in search of water, the party waiting our return.
After searching a gully to the west without success, we went east to a
bare granite hill and, passing through a gorge, emerged into a small
flat, and saw about 100 natives, all sitting down eating kangaroos. As
soon as they saw us they all rose and shouted, and many ran towards us
with their spears. One spear came close to me, and stuck fast in the
ground. Windich and I fired our revolvers at them several times, and
chased them up the hill. After this they appeared more friendly, and some
came towards us and followed us back towards the party, keeping about 200
yards behind. We reached them and went back to the natives; they were
perched all over the hills, more than twenty on one rock. They were
friendly now, and about thirty came to us who talked away and seemed very
pleased. They were much afraid of the horses, and would not come near
them. We made the natives understand we wanted water, and about forty
conducted us to a rock hole with nearly fifty gallons in it, which we
gave the horses. The natives laughed heartily when they saw us watering
the horses, but much more when we hit them to drive them away. They were
also delighted that Windich and Pierre were black, and marked about the
body, and also at Pierre having his nose bored. They would not come with
us further, and pointed towards water westward. We did not follow their
direction, and continuing on easterly, camped without water, and only
very old dried grass for our horses. We were obliged to abandon the mare
supplied by Mr. John Taylor to-day, together with about 150 pounds of
flour, also the pack-saddle. She is very near foaling, and is very weak;
she has carried only the empty bags for some time, and has been gradually
failing. She is a fine mare, and I am sorry to lose her, but we cannot
help it. We have more flour than we require, so I decided to leave 150
pounds, as our horses are not able to carry it easily. We have over 3
hundredweight still, which will be quite sufficient. Tomorrow I intend
pushing on to try and reach the spring in the Musgrave Range shown on Mr.
Gosse's chart. It is about forty miles from here, and I have no doubt the
horses will go there, although they are very weak. The natives met to-day
were all circumcised; they had long hair and beards, which were all
clotted and in strands. The strands were covered with filth and dirt for
six inches from the end, and looked like greased rope; it was as hard as
rope, and dangled about their necks, looking most disgustingly filthy.
The men were generally fine-looking fellows. The natives are very
numerous in this country, as fires and camps are seen in many places,
besides well-beaten tracks. Pierre dropped his powder-flask, and one of
them picked it up and gave it to him. They were very friendly and
pleased, and I think, after the first surprise was over, only a few were
hostile. They were much amused at my watch ticking, and all wanted to put
their ears to hear it.
SUFFERINGS OF THE HORSES.
4th.
The horses would not feed last night, and had to be watched. At 4 o'clock
we got up and collected them, and got under way by half-past 5 o'clock,
following on towards the Musgrave Ranges. The morning was cool, and the
horses went along very well. After travelling about twenty miles Padbury
and Butcher began to show signs of giving in. We still pushed on, in hope
of finding water in Lungley's Gully; the sun shone out very hot in the
afternoon. Passed a remarkable high peak, which I named Mount Mary. My
brother, Sweeney, and Pierre were behind with the knocked-up horses,
trying to get them along. Windich went on Hosken, the only horse that was
strong enough, to the north to scour some valleys. Kennedy and I pushed
along slowly with the main lot of horses. If we halted a minute, many of
the horses lay down, and we had great difficulty in getting them up
again. After travelling about thirty-one miles we reached a gully which I
supposed was Lungley's, and I left Kennedy with the horses while I
ascended it on foot. I soon saw many emu tracks, and therefore was
positive water was a little higher up. Found Windich was about 100 yards
in advance of me, having crossed over into the same gully. I soon heard
him shout that there was abundance of water, and fired the welcome
gun-shots to acquaint the party. Returned, and after lifting up some of
the horses that had lain down, and met my brother with the knocked-up
ones, we all proceeded up to the water, which we found to be a beautiful
spring running down the gully about thirty chains. We were all rejoiced
at this good fortune, as we never before wanted water more than at the
present time. Mr. Gosse had camped here, his depot Number 16, and I
wonder he does not show such a fine spring on his map. We are now in
perfect safety, and I will give the horses two days' rest.
5th.
Rested at spring. Windich and Pierre shot three emus; a great many came
to water. Being nearly out of meat, we are glad to get them.
6th (Sunday).
Took bearings from a hill about a mile east of camp, from which there was
a very extensive view. Far as the eye could reach to south, level plains
extended, with low hills rising abruptly out of them here and there; to
the west the Deering Hills and Mann Ranges; while to the east the high
Musgrave Ranges soon stopped the view. The whole country is level, the
ranges rising abruptly out of the plains, and is not like the hilly
country in the settled districts of Western Australia. Marked a tree
close to the camp F 85, being 85th camp from Geraldton. Found camp to be
in latitude 26 degrees 13 minutes 25 seconds by meridian altitude of
Altair, and longitude about 131 degrees 3 minutes east.
GOSSE'S SPRING.
7th.
Left spring, and steering about east for seven miles along foot of
Musgrave Ranges, when we turned North-North-East for four miles, and east
one mile to Mr. Gosse's depot Number 17, found spring in a brook, large
white gums in gully; a very fine spring, but not running; any quantity of
water. First-rate feed in gully and on flat. Weather cloudy. Intend
resting here to-morrow, as one of our horses is very lame, and there is
everything we want.
8th.
Rested at camp. Rained lightly last night, and very stormy. Blew a
hurricane towards morning. Rained lightly until noon; more rain than we
have had on the whole trip. We have not had a drop of rain since the
light shower on the 4th August. Marked a tree F 86, being the 86th camp
from Geraldton. Shod two horses. Finished all our meat. We have now only
flour enough for the remainder of our journey. As my friend Mr. Gosse did
not name this splendid place, I take the liberty of naming it Gosse's
Spring, as that is the name we always gave it in referring to it.
9th.
The horses rambled away last night, and were not collected till late. It
was nearly eleven o'clock when we started. We travelled about fourteen
miles over fine grassy country, and camped on a fine flat with a little
water in a gully which appears springy; good feed, although chiefly old,
all round camp. One of our horses is very lame, and we have a little
trouble in getting him along. It rained again last night. Latitude 26
degrees 15 minutes 23 seconds south.
10th.
Steered North-North-East for five miles, and then North-East and east to
Beare's Creek, Mr. Gosse's depot Number 18, where we found a most
beautiful spring running strong down the gully for half a mile. I wonder
he did not mark it permanent water on his map, as it is one of the best
springs I have ever seen. Poor place for feed. The horses inclined to
ramble. Shot two ducks which were in one of the pools, and two wurrungs,
which were very acceptable, being now altogether without meat. Latitude
26 degrees 9 minutes 50 seconds. Grassy gorge on our route to-day.
11th.
We got up long before daylight, intending to get an early start, and
reach Whittell's Creek, but two of the horses were missing, and it was
after eight o'clock when Windich returned with them. We, however,
started, and steering easterly through dense acacia thickets without
grass for about thirty miles, we reached the creek, and found plenty of
water by digging in the sand. Rough low granite hills all along our
route, but very little feed. Passed many clay-pans with water in them.
The country was sandy and stony, and is thickly wooded. Mount Woodroffe
bears north 208 degrees east magnetic from our camp, and a remarkable
granite hill bore north, which I named Mount Elizabeth. Latitude 26
degrees 13 minutes south. Marked a tree F 89, being 89th camp from
Geraldton.
FIG-TREE GULLY.
12th.
Continued onwards about North-East for ten miles, over saltbush flats
with water in clay-pans in places, to the north part of a range, from
which I got a view of Mount Connor, which rose abruptly out of the ocean
of scrub. Rounding the mount, bore South-East towards Harry's Reservoir,
reaching which we camped. It is at the head of a rocky gully; it is very
rough to reach, and no feed within a mile and a half of it. There was
plenty of water in the hole, which is about six feet deep. A white
gum-tree close to the pool is marked GOS, 19, and I marked under it, on
same tree, F 90, being 90th camp from Geraldton. This being such a rough
place, and no feed near, I will move on to-morrow towards or to Figtree
Gully. Weather dark and cloudy.
13th (Sunday).
Continued on towards Figtree Gully, having to go a long way north in
order to get round and through the ranges. Most beautifully-grassed
country all the way; by far the best-grassed country we have seen for
months. After travelling about nineteen miles we found water on some
granite rocks, and camped on a very fine grassy flat. Windich shot a
large kangaroo, which was very acceptable.
14th.
About 2 o'clock this afternoon we collected the horses, and travelled on
to Figtree Gully about four miles, our horses first finishing all the
water on the granite rocks. We got enough at Figtree Gully to satisfy
them, although there is not a great supply. There is a small soakage from
the rocks; we filled the drums to-night, so as to have sufficient for
them in the morning, as the water does not come in quickly. The view to
the east is not very interesting. A few low hills, and generally level
country--apparently thickly wooded with mulga and acacia.
THE MARRYATT RIVER.
15th.
Got an early start, and steering about east for six miles, crossed the
Gum Creek, and followed it along about a mile and a half, when we steered
more to the east, until we struck the head of the Marryatt, which we
followed down North-East and east, until we reached the salt native well
marked on Mr. Gosse's map. We camped here, and dug out the well, which
was very brackish; yet the horses drank it. There was a very poor supply
of water, and we kept bailing it out into the drums all night, and
managed to get out about sixty gallons. We travelled about thirty miles
to-day; our horses were very thirsty, the weather oppressive. I found a
small water-hole, with about twenty gallons in it, about one mile north,
to which we will take the horses to-morrow morning.
16th.
Went over to the rock hole and gave our horses the water--about one
bucket apiece, after which we struck South-East to the river, and found
two rock holes with sufficient water in them to satisfy all the horses.
Continued on and reached Mr. Gosse's camp, where he marks on his map
"Water-hole dug." Found it quite dry; but after going a few hundred yards
we found a nice clay-pan with water in it, and camped. There has been a
little rain here a few weeks ago, and it has not all dried up yet. If it
was not for the rain-water we should have much difficulty in getting down
this river, as all the old native wells dug in the sand are dry.
17th.
Followed down the Marryatt, and at six miles passed a native well, which
was quite dry. We continued on, and at about eight miles found a number
of rock water-holes, all nearly full of water, about a quarter of a mile
south of the river, and camped. Shod some of the horses. Took a set of
lunar observations.
18th.
Two of the horses rambled away during the night, and delayed our start.
At eight o'clock we got under way, and followed along the river. The day
was excessively hot, and we had to walk in turns. At two o'clock crossed
the gum creek shown on Mr. Gosse's map, and searched for the large
clay-pan shown a short distance beyond it; hundreds of natives' tracks
seen all along. Towards evening we found a rock water-hole with about two
gallons in it, which refreshed us, as we were all very thirsty. Here we
were obliged to abandon police-horse Champion, he being completely
knocked up; he has had a very bad back for a long time, and has been
running loose without any load. We pushed on, and I sent Windich to look
for water. We travelled until eight o'clock, when we camped for the night
without water. Shortly after we had camped, Windich overtook us, and
reported having found some clay-pans about six miles back. After having
something to eat I decided to return to the clay-pans, and therefore
packed up three of the horses, and let the others go loose, leaving the
packs until our return. Reached the water by midnight, and the horses
finished it all, and were not half satisfied. I thought there was more,
or would not have come back for it. We hobbled them out, and had a few
hours' rest.
A PAINFUL MARCH.
19th.
Early this morning we searched the flat for water, and found a rock
water-hole with about fifty gallons in it, but could not find any more
clay-pans. We therefore gave the horses the fifty gallons, and pushed on
towards "Water near Table-Land" shown on Mr. Gosse's map, about
twenty-one miles distant. The day was excessively hot again, and walking
was most fatiguing. Men and horses moved along very slowly, but did not
give in. Towards noon a hot wind began to blow. Onwards still we pressed,
and crossed the large creek coming into the Alberga about two miles from
the water. I told the party we were now close, and showed them the low
table-land just ahead. Before we reached it we found a clay-hole with
water, and gave the horses a good drink, after which we moved on a mile
and camped at Mr. Gosse's depot Number 20, where we got plenty of water
by digging in the sandy bed of the river. I was very glad to reach here,
for the horses were getting very weary, and Sweeney was also done up, and
looked very ill and swollen up about the head. The walking was most
harassing, for, besides the ground being soft, the sun was overpowering,
and most excessively hot. We are now in safety again, and to-morrow being
Sunday we will rest.
20th (Sunday).
Rested to-day. Windich shot an emu. Worked out lunar observations. Marked
a tree F 97, being 97th camp from Geraldton. Latitude 26 degrees 44
minutes 19 seconds, longitude about 133 degrees 47 minutes East.
21st.
Continued down the Alberga about South-East for about twenty miles, over
sandy country thickly wooded with mulga and acacia, to Mr. Gosse's
bivouac of December 1st, but there was scarcely any water by digging. We
therefore pushed on and found a native well, from which, by digging out
about five feet, we procured abundance of water. Sweeney still very
unwell, unable to walk; others walking in turns. Distance twenty-five
miles.
22nd.
The horses rambled back on the tracks about three miles, and it was eight
o'clock before we got started. We followed down the Alberga over stony
plains, poorly grassed and thickly wooded, for about eighteen miles.
Found sufficient water by digging in the sand; there was only a very poor
supply, and it took us a good while to water all the horses. The river
bed is more than a quarter of a mile wide and very shallow, and spreads
out over the plains for many miles in heavy winters.
23rd.
Watering the horses delayed us a little this morning, as there was a very
poor supply coming into the well. We followed down the river, and after
travelling about nine miles heard a native shouting, and soon saw him
running after us. He was quite friendly, but could not speak any English;
he came along with us, and shortly afterwards we found a native well with
sufficient water by digging, then camped, as our horses were very weak,
and required a rest. We finished all our tea and sugar to-day, and have
now only flour left; we will therefore have bread and water for the next
week, until we reach the Peake. The native ate heartily of damper given
to him, and remained all day, and slept at our camp. Distance ten miles.
NEAR THE END OF THE JOURNEY.
24th.
Travelled down river, the native still accompanying us, and at about six
miles met a very old native, and a woman and a little girl. They were
quite friendly, and showed us water; and the woman and girl came with us
to Appatinna, Mr. Gosse's depot 21, where we camped at a fine pool of
water under right bank of river. Windich shot three emus that were coming
to the water, and we all had plenty of them to eat. The natives were very
pleased, and went back and brought up the old man and another woman and
child. There were now six with us. They have seen the telegraph line, as
can be seen by signs they make, but they cannot speak English.
25th.
The horses rambled off miles, and it was nearly ten o'clock before we got
under way. There was no feed at all for them. We followed down the
Alberga for about fifteen miles, about east generally, and camped, with
very little old dried-up grass for our horses. About half an hour after
we left Appatinna this morning we had a very heavy shower of rain, and,
although it only lasted about a quarter of an hour, it literally flooded
the whole country, making it boggy. It was the heaviest thunderstorm I
have ever seen. We shall have no difficulty in procuring water now all
the way to the telegraph line, which is not more than forty miles from
here. The natives stayed at Appatinna, as they had too much emu to leave.
We did not want them, and were just as well pleased they did not come on.
Mr. Gosse's track went North-North-East to the Hamilton River from
Appatinna.
26th.
Got off early and followed the river about two miles, when it took a bend
to the north, and as it was rather boggy near it we left it, and steered
about east and East-North-East for twenty miles over most miserable
country without any grass. We camped on a small gully with a little water
in it, and some old dry grass in a flat. The horses were very tired, not
having had anything to eat for the last two or three days, and some
showed signs of giving in; in fact, all weak and knocked-up, and we have
to handle them very carefully. For the first thirteen miles we passed
many clay-pans full of water--water nearly everywhere--after which there
was very little; and the rain does not appear to have been heavy to the
east. The river is about a mile and a half north of us, and we have not
seen it for some miles. Latitude 27 degrees 9 minutes south. Hope to
reach the telegraph line to-morrow.
27th (Sunday).
Continuing East-North-East for two miles, came to the Alberga, and
following along its right bank over many clay-pans with water, about east
for twelve miles, and then East-North-East for three miles, and reached
the telegraph line between Adelaide and Port Darwin, and camped. Long and
continued cheers came from our little band as they beheld at last the
goal to which we have been travelling for so long. I felt rejoiced and
relieved from anxiety; and on reflecting on the long line of travel we
had performed through an unknown country, almost a wilderness, felt very
thankful to that good Providence that had guarded and guided us so safely
through it.
The telegraph line is most substantially put up, and well wired, and is
very creditable at this spot; large poles of bush timber, often rather
crooked, and iron ones here and there. I now gave up keeping watch,
having kept it regularly for the last six months. Marked a tree F 104,
being 104th camp from Geraldton. We had not much to refresh the inner man
with, only damper and water, but we have been used to it now more than a
month, and do not much feel it. The horses are all very tired, and many
of them have sore backs. I hope to reach the Peake on Wednesday night,
where we shall be able to get something to eat. We find making the damper
with boiling water makes it much lighter and softer, and is a great
improvement. Latitude 27 degrees 7 minutes 50 seconds south.
28th.
We travelled down the telegraph line for about twenty-one miles, and
camped on a branch of the Neales River, with a little grass. Level plains
and small rocky rises all the way; very stony country; many clay-pans
with water. A well-beaten road goes along near the telegraph line. We did
not get on it till we had travelled along the line about fifteen miles.
It crosses the Alberga east of the line.
29th.
When we were nearly ready to start, police-horse Butcher lay down and
died in a few seconds; he appeared all right when we brought him in, and
was saddled as usual. Old age, very severe hard work, and continual
travelling, is no doubt the cause of death: we took off his shoes, and
left him where he died. I was sorry for the poor old horse; he had been
rather weak for a good while, but had borne up well to the very last. We
only had four horses to ride to-day, and Sweeney being still lame really
made but three horses between five of us. We travelled down the road for
about thirty-three miles over stony plains; many clay-pans with water,
but no feed. Camped on a gully with some old feed in the flat, in
latitude 27 degrees 49 minutes. Miserable country for grass all day, but
plenty of water from recent rains everywhere. Hope to reach the Peake by
mid-day to-morrow. Damper and water as usual.
30th.
Got off early as usual, all in high glee at the prospect of meeting
civilized habitations again. Travelled along the road and saw cattle, and
shortly afterwards reached the Peake, and rather surprised the people.
Mr. Bagot, the owner of the cattle station, was the first I met; and
after telling him who we were, he said he had surmised it was so. He soon
told us that Mr. Giles had returned, and also Mr. Ross, who had been
despatched by the Honourable Thomas Elder with camels and a good
equipment to find an overland route to Perth, but was unable to get over
to Western Australia. We were soon introduced to Mr. Blood, the officer
in charge of the telegraph station, and, after unloading, were soon
engaged at dinner, the roast beef and plum pudding being a striking
contrast to our fare lately! Both Mr. and Mrs. Blood, as well as Mr.
Bagot, did all they could to make us comfortable during our four days'
rest.
CONGRATULATORY TELEGRAMS.
Immediately on reaching Peake, I despatched a telegram to his Excellency
Mr. Musgrave, Governor of South Australia, at Adelaide, informing him of
the safe arrival of the party, and received the following reply from the
private secretary:--
His Excellency has received your message with great satisfaction, and
congratulates you heartily on your safe arrival.