Explorations in Australia - John Forrest
This appeared like a trustworthy confirmation of the reports which had
reached the colony, and created a great impression, so that the
Government felt it a duty incumbent on them to make an effort to
ascertain the truth of this statement, and Dr. Von Mueller's offer to
lead an expedition was accepted.
I was then, as now, an officer of the Survey Department, and employed in
a distant part of the colony. I was ordered to repair to headquarters, to
confer with the authorities on the subject, and was offered the
appointment of second in command and navigator. This was a proposition
quite in accordance with my tastes, for I had long felt a deep interest
in the subject of Australian exploration, and ardently desired to take my
share in the work. I at once arranged the equipment of the expedition,
but, while so engaged, the mail from Melbourne brought a letter from Dr.
Von Mueller, to the effect that his other engagements would not permit
him to take the lead as proposed, and I was appointed to take his place
in the expedition.
OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.
The Honourable Captain Roe, R.N., the Surveyor-General, who had himself
been a great explorer, undertook the preparation of a set of Instructions
for my guidance; and they so accurately describe the objects of the
journey, and the best modes of carrying them out, that I transcribe the
official letter:--
Survey Office, Perth,
13th April, 1869.
Sir,
His Excellency the Governor having been pleased to appoint you to lead an
expedition into the interior of Western Australia for the purpose of
searching for the remains of certain white men reported by the natives to
have been killed by the aborigines some years ago, many miles beyond the
limits of our settled country, and it being deemed probable that the
white men referred to formed part of an exploring party under the command
of Dr. Leichardt, endeavouring to penetrate overland from Victoria to
this colony several years ago, I have been directed to furnish the
following instructions for your guidance on this interesting service, and
for enabling you to carry out the wishes of the Government in connexion
therewith.
2. Your party will consist of six persons in the whole, well armed, and
made up of Mr. George Monger as second in command, Mr. Malcolm Hamersley
as third in command, a farrier blacksmith to be hired at Newcastle, and
two well-known and reliable natives, Tommy Windich and Jemmy, who have
already acquired considerable experience under former explorers.
3. An agreement to serve on the expedition in the above capacities has
been prepared, and should be signed by each European member of the party
previous to starting.
4. A saddle-horse has been provided for each member of the party,
together with ---- pack-horses to transport such portions of the outfit
as cannot be carried by the former. A three-horsed cart will also
accompany the expedition as far as may be found practicable through the
unsettled country, and thereby relieve the pack-horses as much as
possible.
5. All preparations for the journey being now complete, it is desirable
that you should lose no time in starting, so as to arrive at the
commencement of the unexplored country by the end of the present month,
or beginning of the expected winter rains. It has been, however, already
ascertained from native information that a considerable quantity of rain
has recently fallen over the regions to be explored, and that no
impediment may be anticipated from a scarcity of water there.
6. The route to be followed might advantageously commence at Newcastle,
where some of your party and several of your horses are to be picked up,
and thence proceed north-easterly to Goomaling, and 100 miles further in
the same general direction, passing eastward to Mounts Chunbaren and
Kenneth of Mr. Austin's, to the eastern farthest of that explorer, in 119
degrees East and 28 3/4 degrees South. Thence the general north-easterly
route of the expedition must be governed by the information afforded by
your native guides as to the locality in which they have reported the
remains of white men are to be found.
7. On arriving at that spot, the greatest care is to be taken to bring
away all such remains as may be discovered by a diligent search of the
neighbourhood. By friendly and judicious treatment of the local natives,
it is also probable that several articles of European manufacture which
are said to be still in their possession might be bartered from them, and
serve towards identifying their former owners. The prospect of obtaining
from the natives, at this remote date, anything like a journal,
note-book, or map, would indeed be small; but the greatest interest would
be attached to the smallest scrap of written or printed paper, however
much defaced, if only covered with legible characters. A more promising
mode by which the former presence of European explorers on the spot might
be detected is the marks which are generally made on the trees by
travellers to record the number or reference to a halting-place, or the
initials of some of the party. Thus the letter L has in several instances
been found by searching parties to have been legibly cut on trees in the
interior of the eastern colonies, and in localities supposed to have been
visited by the eminent explorer alluded to. It is needless to point out
that metal articles, such as axes, tomahawks, gun and pistol barrels,
iron-work of pack-saddles, and such like, would be far more likely to
have survived through the lapse of years than articles of a more
perishable nature.
8. After exhausting all conceivable means of obtaining information on the
spot, and from the nature of surrounding country, an attempt should be
made to follow back on the track of the unfortunate deceased, which is
said to have been from the eastward and towards the settled part of this
colony. Here a close and minute scrutiny of the trees might prove of
great value in clearing up existing doubts, especially at and about any
water-holes and springs near which explorers would be likely to bivouac.
9. After completing an exhaustive research and inquiry into this
interesting and important part of your duties, the remainder of the time
that may be at your disposal, with reference to your remaining stock of
provisions, should be employed in exploring the surrounding country, in
tracing any considerable or smaller stream it may be your good fortune to
discover, and generally in rendering the service entrusted to your
guidance as extensively useful and valuable to this colony as
circumstances may admit.
10. Towards effecting this object, your homeward journey should, if
possible, be over country not previously traversed by the outward route,
or by any former explorers, and should be so regulated as to expose your
party to no unnecessary risk on account of the falling short of supplies.
11. In your intercourse with the aborigines of the interior, many of whom
will have no previous personal knowledge of the white man, I need
scarcely commend to you a policy of kindness and forbearance mixed with
watchfulness and firmness, as their future bearing towards our remote
colonists may be chiefly moulded by early impressions.
12. To render the expedition as extensively useful as possible, I would
urge you, in the interests of science, to make and preserve such
specimens in natural history as may come within the reach of yourself and
party, especially in the departments of botany, geology, and zoology,
which may be greatly enriched by productions of country not yet
traversed.
13. Direct reference to minor objects, and to matters of detail, is
purposely omitted, in full reliance on your judgment and discretion, and
on your personal desire to render the expedition as productive as
possible of benefit to the colony and to science in general.
14. In this spirit I may add that the brief instructions herein given for
your general guidance are by no means intended to fetter your own
judgment in carrying out the main object of the expedition in such other
and different manner as may appear to you likely to lead to beneficial
results. In the belief that such results will be achieved by the energy
and perseverance of yourself and of those who have so nobly volunteered
to join you in the enterprise, and with confident wishes for your
success, in which H.E. largely participates,
I remain, Sir,
Your obedient Servant,
J.S. ROE, Surveyor-General.
John Forrest, Esquire, Leader of Exploring Expedition to the North-East.
Mr. George Monger (brother of the gentleman who gave the information),
who accompanied me as second in command, had previously been on an
expedition to the eastward, and Jemmy Mungaro was the black who said he
had seen the spot where the remains of the white men were. His
persistence in the statement encouraged me to hope that I might be the
first to announce positively the fate of the lost explorer; but I had
then to learn how little dependence can be placed on the testimony of
Australian aborigines.
On the 15th of April, 1869, I began the journey. I was well supplied with
instruments for making observations, so as to ascertain our daily
position. A knowledge of at least the leading principles of the art of
navigation is as necessary to the explorer as to the mariner on the
ocean. Our stock of provisions consisted of 800 pounds of flour, 270
pounds of pork, 135 pounds of sugar, and 17 pounds of tea; and we each
took two suits of clothes.
The party were all in good spirits. For myself I was hopeful of success,
and my white companions shared my feelings. The natives were, as they
generally are, except when food is scarce, or their anger excited, on the
best terms with everybody and everything, and Jemmy Mungaro, so far as
could be judged from his demeanour, might have been the most veracious
guide who ever led a party of white men through difficulties and dangers
on an expedition of discovery.
Day by day I noted down the incidents of the journey, and that Journal I
now submit to the reader.
JOURNAL OF PROCEEDINGS OF AN EXPLORING EXPEDITION IN SEARCH OF THE
REMAINS OF THE LATE DR. LEICHARDT AND PARTY, UNDERTAKEN BY ORDER OF THE
GOVERNMENT OF WESTERN AUSTRALIA, BY JOHN FORREST, GOVERNMENT SURVEYOR.
Sir,
In pursuance of instructions received from you, the exploring party under
my command consisted of the following persons, namely, Mr. George Monger,
as second in command; Mr. Malcolm Hamersley, as third in command;
probation prisoner, David Morgan, as shoeing smith, and two natives
(Tommy Windich and Jemmy Mungaro). The latter native gave Mr. J.H. Monger
the information respecting the murder of white men in the eastward.
Reached Newcastle on the 17th and left on Monday, 19th, with a
three-horse cart and teamster and thirteen horses, making a total of
sixteen horses. Reached Mombekine, which is about sixteen miles
East-North-East from Newcastle.
April 20th.
Continued journey to Goomalling, sixteen miles, which we reached at 1
p.m., and devoted the remainder of the afternoon to weighing and packing
rations, etc., for a final start.
21st.
Leaving Goomalling at 10.30 a.m., we travelled in a northerly direction
for nine miles, and reached Walyamurra Lake; thence about East-North-East
for seven miles, we encamped at a well on north side of Kombekine Lake.
The water was very bad from opossums being drowned in it, and there was
hardly any feed.
22nd.
Hearing from a number of natives that there was no water in the direction
we intended steering, namely, to Mount Churchman, we decided on changing
our course and proceed there via Waddowring, in latitude 31 degrees south
and longitude 118 degrees east. Steering about South-South-East for eight
miles, through dense scrubby thickets, which we had great difficulty in
getting the cart through, we struck the road from Goomalling to
Waddowring, which we followed along about east for eight miles, and
camped at a well called Naaning, with hardly any feed.
23rd.
Mr. George Roe (who had come from Northam to bid us farewell) and my
teamster left us this morning to return to Newcastle. Considerable delay
having occurred in collecting the horses, we did not start till twelve
o'clock, when we steered East-North-East for eight miles over scrubby
sand-plains, and camped at a well called Pingeperring, with very little
feed for our horses.
24th.
Started at 8.50 a.m. and steered about east for seven miles over scrubby,
undulating sand-plains, thence North 50 degrees East magnetic for two
miles, thence North 160 degrees for one mile, and thence about North 80
degrees East magnetic for five miles over scrubby sand-plains. We camped
at a spring called Dwartwollaking at 5 p.m. Barometer 29.45; thermometer
71 degrees.
25th (Sunday).
Did not travel to-day. Took observations for time, and corrected our
watches. Found camp to be in south latitude 31 degrees 10 minutes by
meridian altitude of sun.
26th.
Travelled in about the direction of North 73 degrees East magnetic for
twenty-eight miles. We reached Yarraging, the farthest station to the
eastward, belonging to Messrs. Ward and Adams, where we bivouacked for
the night.
27th.
Bought some rations from Ward and Co., making our supply equal to last
three months on the daily allowance of a pound and a half of flour, half
a pound of pork, a quarter of a pound of sugar, and half an ounce of tea
per man. Being unable to take the cart any further, and wishing to have
the team horses with me, I arranged with Ward and Co. to take it to
Newcastle for 2 pounds. Packed up and left Yarraging with ten pack and
six riding horses, and steering North 320 degrees East magnetic for eight
miles we reached Waddowring springs in south latitude 31 degrees and
longitude 118 degrees East.
28th.
Started this morning with Mr. Monger, Tommy Windich, and Dunbatch (a
native of this locality) in search of water in order to shift the party.
Travelling about north for eleven miles we found a native well, and by
digging it out seven feet we obtained sufficient water for ourselves and
horses. I therefore sent Mr. Monger back with instructions to bring the
party to this spot, called Cartubing. I then proceeded in a northerly
direction, and at two miles passed water in granite rocks at a spot
called Inkanyinning. Shortly afterwards we passed another native well,
called Yammaling, from which we steered towards a spot called
Beebynyinning; but, night setting in, our guide lost his way, and we were
obliged to camp for the night in a thicket without water and very little
feed.
29th.
This morning Dunbatch brought us to Beebynyinning, where we obtained a
little water by digging. After digging a well we returned to Cartubing,
where we met the party and bivouacked on a patch of green feed.
30th.
Shifted the party from Cartubing to Beebynyinning, watering our horses on
the way at Inkanyinning and Yammaling, which was fortunate, as there was
very little water at Beebynyinning.
May 1st.
Steering about North-East for eight miles over grassy country, we reached
and encamped at Danjinning, a small grassy spot, with native well, by
deepening which about ten feet we obtained a plentiful supply of water.
Mr. Austin visited Danjinning in 1854, and we could see the tracks of his
horses distinctly. Barometer 29. Every appearance of rain, which we are
in much want of.
2nd (Sunday).
Rested at Danjinning, which I found to be in south latitude 30 degrees 34
minutes by meridian altitude of the sun. Read Divine Service. Jemmy shot
six gnows and a wurrong to-day.
3rd.
Steering in a northerly direction for sixteen miles, we reached
Yalburnunging, a small grassy spot, with water in a native well, which we
deepened four feet, and procured a plentiful supply. For the first nine
miles our route lay over scrubby sand-plains, after which we came into
dense thickets and stunted gums.
4th.
Steering towards Mount Churchman, or Geelabbing, for about fifteen miles,
we reached a grassy spot called Billeburring, and found water in a native
well, probably permanent. At eight miles we passed a water-hole in some
granite rocks, called Gnaragnunging. Dense acacia and cypress thickets
most of the way.
5th.
Steering in a northerly direction for about twelve miles, we reached
Mount Churchman, or Geelabbing, an immense bare granite hill, and camped,
with plenty of feed and water. At five miles passed a spring called
Coolee. Country very dense and scrubby; no feed in any of the thickets.
From the summit of Mount Churchman, Ningham of Mr. Monger, or Mount
Singleton of Mr. A.C. Gregory, bore North 312 degrees 30 minutes East
magnetic. This evening a party of nine natives (friends of our native
Jemmy) joined us, who state that a long time ago a party of white men and
horses died at a place called Bouincabbajibimar, also that a gun and a
number of other articles are there, and volunteer to accompany us to the
spot.
6th.
Left Mount Churchman in company with the nine natives, and travelled
about North-North-West for ten miles to a small water-hole called
Woodgine, thence in a northerly direction to a branch of Lake Moore,
which we crossed without difficulty, and, following along its north shore
for three miles, we bivouacked at a spring close to the lake called
Cundierring, with splendid feed around the granite rocks.
7th.
Steering in a northerly direction for eleven miles, through dense
thickets of acacia and cypress, we reached some granite rocks with water
on them, called Curroning, and bivouacked. Have fears that the
information received from the natives relates to nine of Mr. Austin's
horses that died from poison at Poison Rock. They now state they are only
horses' bones, and not men's, as first stated.
8th.
Travelling in the direction of North 30 degrees East for about ten miles,
we reached some granite rocks, with a water-hole in them, called
Coorbedar. Passed over very rough, low, quartz hills, covered with acacia
thickets, etc. At four miles passed a water-hole called Yeergolling; at
seven miles a small one called Gnurra; and another at eight miles called
Munnarra.
9th (Sunday).
Rested our horses at Coorbedar. Found camp to be in south latitude 29
degrees 24 minutes 43 seconds by meridian altitudes of the sun and
Regulus, and in longitude 118 degrees 6 minutes East. From a quartz hill
half a mile South-West from Coorbedar, Mount Singleton bore North 268
degrees 15 minutes East. The supply of water from the rock having been
used, I went, in company with Mr. Hamersley, to a spot one mile and a
half South-South-West from Coorbedar, called Dowgooroo, where we dug a
well and procured a little water, to which I intend shifting to-morrow,
as I propose staying in this vicinity for two days, so as to give me time
to visit Warne, the large river spoken of by Jemmy.
10th.
Started this morning in company with Tommy Windich and a native boy (one
of the nine who joined us at Mount Churchman) to examine the locality
called Warne. Steering North 42 degrees East magnetic for about seven
miles, we came to a grassy flat about half a mile wide, with a stream-bed
trending south running through it. The natives state it to be dry in
summer, but at present there is abundance of water, and in wet seasons
the flat must be almost all under water. After following the flat about
seven miles we returned towards camp, about five miles, and bivouacked.
11th.
Returned this morning to Dowgooroo and found all well. Rain, which we
were much in want of, fell lightly most of the day. Barometer 28.50;
thermometer 61 degrees.
12th.
Steered this morning about North 38 degrees East magnetic for eight
miles, and camped by a shallow lake of fresh water--the bivouac of the
10th. Here we met a party of twenty-five natives (friends of my native
Jemmy and the nine who joined us at Mount Churchman) who had a grand
corroboree in honour of the expedition. They stated that at
Bouincabbajilimar there were the remains of a number of horses, but no
men's bones or guns, and pointed in the direction of Poison Rock, where
Mr. Austin lost nine horses. Being now satisfied that the natives were
alluding to the remains of Mr. Austin's horses, I resolved to steer to
the eastward, towards a spot called by the native, Jemmy, Noondie, where
he states he heard the remains of white men were.
13th.
Bidding farewell to all the natives, we steered in a south-easterly
direction for fifteen miles, and camped in a rough hollow called
Durkying; cypress and acacia thickets the whole way.
14th.
One of our horses having strayed, we did not start till 10.40 a.m., when
we steered in about a South-East direction for eight miles, and camped on
an elevated grassy spot, called Mingan, with water in the granite rocks,
probably permanent. The thickets were a little less dense than usual, but
without any grass, except at the spots mentioned. By meridian altitudes
of Mars and Regulus, we were in south latitude 29 degrees 30 minutes 30
seconds, and in longitude about 118 degrees 30 minutes east.
15th.
Steering North-East for four miles, and North-North-East for seven miles,
over sandy soil, with thickets of acacia and cypress, we bivouacked on an
elevated grassy spot, called Earroo, with water in granite rocks.
16th (Sunday).
Rested at Earroo; horses enjoying good feed. By meridian altitudes of
Regulus and Mars, camp at Earroo was in south latitude 29 degrees 23
minutes 3 seconds, and in longitude 118 degrees 35 minutes East; weather
very cloudy; barometer 29.
17th.
Started 7.50 a.m., and steered North 60 degrees East for about five
miles; thence about North 50 degrees East for eight miles; thence North
85 degrees East for five miles, to a small grassy spot called Croobenyer,
with water in granite rocks. Sandy soil, thickets of cypress, acacia,
etc., most of the way. Found camp to be in south latitude 29 degrees 12
minutes 43 seconds by meridian altitudes of Regulus and Aquilae (Altair);
barometer 28.70.
18th.
Steering North 70 degrees East for two miles and a half, we saw a low
hill called Yeeramudder, bearing North 62 degrees 30 minutes East
magnetic, distant about seventeen miles, for which we steered, and camped
to the north of it, on a fine patch of grass with a little rain-water on
some granite rocks. At eleven miles crossed a branch of a dry salt lake,
which appears to run far to the eastward.
19th.
Steering about North 85 degrees East magnetic for fourteen miles,
attempted to cross the lake we had been leaving a little to the
southward, making for a spot supposed by us to be the opposite shore, but
on arriving at which was found to be an island. As we had great
difficulty in reaching it, having to carry all the loads the last 200
yards, our horses saving themselves with difficulty, and, being late, I
resolved to leave the loads and take the horses to another island, where
there was a little feed, on reaching which we bivouacked without water,
all being very tired.
20th.
On examining this immense lake I found that it was impossible to get the
horses and loads across it; I was therefore compelled to retrace my steps
to where we first entered it, which the horses did with great difficulty
without their loads. I was very fortunate in finding water and feed about
three miles North-North-West, to which we took the horses and bivouacked,
leaving on the island all the loads, which we shall have to carry at
least half way, three quarters of a mile, the route being too boggy for
the horses.
HEAVY WORK IN THE BOG.
21st.
Went over to the lake in company with Messrs. Monger, Hamersley, and
Tommy Windich, with four horses. Succeeded in getting all the loads to
the mainland, carrying them about three quarters of a mile up to our
knees in mud, from which point the lake became a little firmer, and the
horses carried the loads out. I cannot speak too highly of the manner in
which my companions assisted me on this trying occasion. Having been
obliged to work barefooted in the mud, the soles of Mr. Hamersley's feet
were in a very bad state, and he was hardly able to walk for a fortnight.
Seeing a native fire several miles to the southward, I intend sending
Tommy Windich and Jemmy in search of the tribe to-morrow, in order that I
may question them respecting the reported death of white men to the
eastward.
22nd.
Went over to the lake with all the horses, and brought the loads to the
camp. Started Tommy and Jemmy in search of the natives. After returning
to camp, overhauled all the pack bags, and dried and re-packed them,
ready for a fresh start on Monday morning. Also washed the mud off the
horses, who appear to be doing well, and fast recovering from the effects
of the bogging. Tommy and Jemmy returned this evening, having seen some
natives after dark, but were unable to get near them.
23rd (Sunday).
Went with Tommy Windich and Jemmy on foot to follow the tracks of the
natives seen yesterday. Seeing no chance of overtaking them, as they
appeared to be making off at a great rate, and were twelve hours in
advance of us, we returned, after following the tracks for five miles
across the lake. The camp was reached at 2 p.m., after we had walked
about fifteen miles. This spot, which I named Retreat Rock, I found to be
in south latitude 29 degrees 3 minutes 51 seconds by meridian altitudes
of Regulus and Mars, and in about longitude 119 degrees 16 minutes east.