Explorations in Australia - John Forrest
29th.
Started this morning, in company with Tommy Windich, with seven days'
provisions, leaving instructions for Mr. Monger to shift the party back
to our last camp, where the feed was much better, in latitude 28 degrees
55 minutes South, and longitude 121 degrees 10 minutes East. Travelled
about east for thirty miles towards Mount Margaret, our farthest point
last trip. We camped in a thicket, without water, on a small patch of
feed.
30th.
Saddled up at dawn, and proceeded towards Mount Margaret, obtaining a
little water at the spot where we found water on our former trip.
Continuing, we came to a fine pool of water in a brook, and rested an
hour, Mount Margaret being north-east about two miles and a half. Hardly
any feed near the water. Resuming, we passed Mount Margaret and started
towards the table hill seen previously, bearing North 73 degrees East
magnetic, apparently about eighteen miles distant, over a series of dry
salt marshes, with sandy country and spinifex intervening. After
travelling eight miles, we bivouacked without water on a small patch of
feed. With the pocket sextant I found this spot to be in south latitude
about 28 degrees 50 minutes, and longitude about 122 degrees 11 minutes
East.
MOUNT WELD.
July 1st.
After journeying towards the table hill seen yesterday for six miles,
crossed a large brook heading south-west, in which we found a small pool
of rain-water, and rested an hour to breakfast. Resuming for about six
miles, reached the table hill, which I ascended and took a round of
angles. I have since named this hill Mount Weld, being the farthest hill
seen eastward by us. Continuing about North 77 degrees East magnetic for
fifteen miles, through dense thickets--no grass except spinifex--we
bivouacked, without water or feed, and then tied up our horses. I found
this spot to be in south latitude 28 degrees 41 minutes by meridian
altitude of Bootes (Arcturus), and in longitude about 122 degrees 37
minutes East.
2nd.
Started at dawn, and steered about east, searching on our way for water,
which our horses and ourselves were beginning to want much. At six miles
we found a small hole in some rocks, apparently empty, but on sounding
with a stick I found it to contain a little water. The mouth of the hole
being too small to admit a pannican, and having used my hat with very
little success, I at last thought of my gum-bucket, with which we
procured about two quarts of something between mud and water, which,
after straining through my pocket-handkerchief, we pronounced first-rate.
Continuing for six miles over clear, open sand-plains, with spinifex and
large white gums--the only large trees and clear country seen since
leaving the settled districts--we climbed up a white gum to have a view
of the country eastward. Some rough sandstone cliffs bore North 127
degrees East magnetic, about six miles distant. The country eastward was
almost level, with sandstone cliffs here and there, apparently thickly
wooded with white gums, and other trees; spinifex everywhere, but no
prospects of water. More to the north, a narrow line of samphire flats
appeared, with cypress and stunted gums on its edges--all barren and
desolate--so much so, indeed, that for the last twenty-five miles there
has been no grass seen at all save spinifex. After taking a few bearings
from the top of the tree (which I marked with the letter F on the south
side), which is in south latitude about 28 degrees 41 minutes, and
longitude about 122 degrees 50 East, I decided to return to our last
watering place, nearly thirty-one miles distant, as we were now over 100
miles from camp, and the horses had been without water or feed since
yesterday morning. Therefore, keeping a little to the north of the
outward track, we travelled nearly two hours after dark, and camped
without water or feed, and tied up the horses.
WINDICH BROOK.
3rd.
Saddled up early, and steered westerly towards our last watering-place,
about fourteen miles distant; but, after travelling nearly seven miles,
came to a small pool of water (at the head of the brook where we found
water on the 1st), and rested two hours to allow our horses to feed, as
they had neither eaten nor drunk for the last forty-eight hours. Resuming
our journey along the brook (which I named Windich Brook, after my
companion, Tommy Windich) for ten miles, in which we found several pools
of water, but destitute of feed, camped without water about two miles
east of our bivouac of the 30th June.
4th.
Travelling about West-South-West for twelve miles, we reached the pool of
water found on our outward track on the 30th June, two miles and a half
South-West from Mount Margaret. There we rested an hour. Resuming, we
travelled nearly along our outward track for eighteen miles, and camped
without water on a small patch of feed. Tommy shot two wurrongs to-day.
5th.
Started at daybreak, and, continuing nearly along our outward track for
twenty-five miles, we reached the water close to Mount Malcolm, where we
left the party, they having shifted, as instructed, seventeen miles
farther back. There we rested an hour; but, having finished our
provisions, we roasted two wurrongs and made a first-rate dinner. Tommy
also shot an emu that came to water, and which we carried to camp.
Reached there at 6 p.m. and found all well, having been absent seven
days, every night being without water, during which time we travelled
over 200 miles.
6th.
Weighed all the rations, and found we had 283 pounds flour, 31 pounds
bacon, 28 pounds sugar, and 4 pounds tea--equal to thirty-two days'
allowance of flour, ten days' bacon, nineteen days' sugar, and twenty-one
days' tea on a full ration. Thereupon concluded to return to Perth as
quickly as possible, and reduce the allowance of tea and sugar to last
thirty days--bacon to be done without. By that time I hope to reach
Clarke's homestead, Victoria Plains, and intend to return by Mount
Kenneth, Nanjajetty, Ningham, or Mount Singleton, and thence to Damparwar
and Clarke's homestead, thus fixing a few points that will be useful to
the Survey Office.
THE RETURN JOURNEY.
7th.
At 6.30 a.m., barometer 28 86, thermometer 34 degrees. Started on the
return, and followed along our outward tracks for sixteen miles. Camped
on east side of granite range, in south latitude 28 degrees 57 minutes,
and east longitude 120 degrees 55 minutes.
8th.
Travelling nearly along our eastward track, and passing our bivouac of
the 19th June, we reached the Two Springs bivouac.
9th.
Travelled twenty-two miles, and reached our bivouac of 30th May--129
degrees 9 minutes East.
10th.
Reached the bivouac of May 27th. On our way I ascended a very high range,
which I named Mount Alfred, and took a fine round of angles--Mount
Alexander, Mount Bivou, Mount Ida, Mount Elvire, and Yeadie and Bulgar
being visible.
11th (Sunday).
Plotted up our track.
12th.
Travelled for twenty-five miles and camped on a splendid patch of feed,
with a little water on some granite rocks about two miles west of our
bivouac of the 24th. This I found to be in south latitude 28 degrees 57
minutes 48 seconds by meridian altitudes of Bootes (Arcturus) and Pegasi
(Markab), and in longitude about 119 degrees 28 minutes east; Mount
Elvire bearing North 154 degrees East magnetic, distant about twenty-one
miles.
13th.
Leaving the party in charge of Mr. Monger, with instructions to proceed
to Retreat Rock--our bivouac of May 23rd--I started with Mr. Hamersley
and Jemmy to attempt to cross Lake Barlee, in order to explore the
country on its south side, near Mount Elvire, as well as to try and find
natives, Jemmy being acquainted with these tribes. Steering North 154
degrees East magnetic for seven miles, we came to the lake, and, entering
it, succeeded in reaching the southern shore after twelve miles of heavy
walking, sinking over our boots every step--the horses having great
difficulty in getting through. When we reached the southern shore, it was
nearly sundown. Determined to push on, and reached the range, where we
bivouacked on a patch of feed and a little water; Mount Elvire bearing
North 87 degrees East magnetic, about one mile distant; and Yeadie and
Bulgar North 8 degrees East magnetic. Rained lightly during the day.
Being wet through from the splashings of the horses while crossing the
lake, and from it raining throughout the night, and not having any
covering, our situation was not the most pleasant. Jemmy informed me
there was a fine permanent spring close to Mount Elvire; but we did not
go to see it.
14th.
This morning, after ascending a range to have a view of the country,
steered North 288 degrees East magnetic, and then, travelling six miles,
came to a branch of Lake Barlee running far to the southward, which we
attempted to cross; but after travelling a mile and a half, the horses
went down to their girths in the bog, and we had great difficulty in
getting them to return, which, however, we ultimately succeeded in doing,
and made another attempt, at a place where a series of islands appeared,
to cross it, and, passing over without much difficulty, reached the
opposite shore at sundown, where we bivouacked on a splendid grassy ride,
with abundance of water in granite rocks, Mount Elvire bearing North 108
degrees East magnetic, and Yeadie and Bulgar North 45 degrees East
magnetic.
15th.
Having finished our rations last night, we started at dawn, and steered
towards Retreat Rock. where we were to meet the party. After travelling
five miles, we came to that part of Lake Barlee which we attempted to
cross, without success, on May 19th (on our outward track); but, leading
our horses, we at last succeeded in crossing, and reached camp, all very
tired, at twelve o'clock, finding all well. The party were encamped one
mile north of our former bivouac, at some granite rocks with two fine
water-holes.
16th.
Considerable delay having occurred in collecting the horses, we did not
start till ten o'clock, when we travelled nearly along our outward
track--passing Yeeramudder Hill, from the summit of which Mount Elvire
bore North 111 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic about thirty-five miles
distant--for about twenty-one miles, and bivouacked at some granite rocks
with a little feed around them, which I found to be in south latitude 29
degrees 8 minutes 47 seconds by meridian altitudes of Bootes (Arcturus)
and Pegasi (Markab), and in longitude about 118 degrees 59 minutes East.
17th.
Started at 8.45 a.m., and, steering about west for twenty-five miles
through dense thickets without feed, we camped without water on a small
miserable patch, in south latitude 29 degrees 7 minutes 13 seconds by
meridian altitude of Bootes (Arcturus). Marked a small tree with F. 1869.
Being now in friendly country, I decided to give up keeping watch, which
had been done regularly for the last two months.
18th (Sunday).
After starting the party, went, in company with Tommy Windich, to take
bearings from a low hill, bearing North 289 degrees, distant about eight
miles, after which we struck in the direction in which we expected to
find the party; but as, for some reason or other, they had not passed by,
I anticipated they must have met with good feed and water, and camped, it
being Sunday. However this may be, we kept bearing more and more to the
southward, in hope of crossing the track, till after dark, when we
reached the Warne Flats, and bivouacked. Not expecting to be absent more
than a few days, we had neither rations nor rugs. Luckily, Tommy shot a
turkey, which we roasted in the ashes, and made a very good meal. The
night was bitterly cold, and, not having any rug, I slept with a fire on
each side of me, and, considering the circumstances, slept fairly.
19th.
Made a first-rate breakfast off the remainder of the turkey, and then
started in search of the party, making back towards where we had left
them, keeping well to the southward. After spending nearly the whole of
the day, and knocking up the horses, we found the tracks of the party
nearly where we had left them yesterday morning, and, following along
them for nine miles, found where they had bivouacked last night; and, it
being now two hours after dark, we camped also, having between us for
supper an opossum, which Tommy had luckily caught during the day. The
night was again very cold, and we had hardly anything to eat, which made
matters still worse.
20th.
Starting on the tracks at daybreak, followed them for about thirteen
miles, and then we found the party encamped on the east side of a large
bare granite rock called Meroin, Mount Kenneth bearing North 24 degrees
East magnetic, about fifteen miles distant. From a cliff, about one mile
west of the camp, took a splendid round of angles, Mount Kenneth, Mount
Singleton, and several other known points being visible. By meridian
altitudes of sun, a Bootes (Arcturus), E Bootes, and a Coronae Borealis,
camp was in south latitude 29 degrees 10 minutes 49 seconds, and
longitude about 118 degrees 14 minutes east.
21st.
At seven a.m., barometer 29.10; thermometer 35 degrees. Started at 8.15
a.m. Steered about west for fifteen miles, over country studded here and
there with granite rocks, with good feed around them--in some places rock
poison--and then camped at a spring called Pullagooroo, bearing North 189
degrees from a bare granite hill, three quarters of a mile distant, from
which hill Mount Singleton bore North 237 degrees East magnetic, by
meridian altitudes of a Bootes (Arcturus) and E Bootes. Pullagooroo is in
south latitude 29 degrees 7 minutes 46 seconds. Finished our bacon this
morning, and for the future will only have damper and tea.
22nd.
Steering a little to the north of west, through dense thickets without
grass, we bivouacked at a very grassy spot called Bunnaroo, from which
Mount Singleton bore North 205 degrees East magnetic. By meridian
altitudes of a Bootes (Arcturus), E Bootes, and Coronae Borealis, camp is
in south latitude 28 degrees 58 minutes, and in longitude about 117
degrees 35 minutes east.
MOUNT SINGLETON.
23rd.
After starting the party with instructions to proceed straight to Mount
Singleton, distant about thirty-two miles, I went, in company with Jemmy,
to the summit of a high trap range in order to take a round of angles,
and fix Nanjajetty, which was visible. While on our way to join the
party, saw the tracks of two men and two horses, with two natives
walking, and soon after found where they had bivouacked a few days
before. Was much surprised at this discovery: suppose it to be squatters
looking for country. Continuing, we found the tracks of our party, and
overtook them, and encamped at a fine permanent spring--Mount Singleton
bearing North 146 degrees East magnetic about three miles and a half
distant. Reached the party at seven o'clock. There was a partial eclipse
of the moon this evening.
24th.
There being splendid green feed around Mount Singleton, and as the horses
were tired, I concluded to give them a day's rest. Went, in company with
Mr. Monger and Jemmy, to the summit of Mount Singleton, which took us an
hour to ascend; but, on reaching it, we were well repaid for the trouble
by the very extensive view and the many points to which I could take
bearings. Far as the eye could reach to the East and South-East were
visible Lake Moore, Mount Churchman; to the north, conspicuous high trap
ranges appeared; while to the west, within a radius of six miles, hills
covered with flowers gave the country a pretty appearance. Further to the
west a dry salt lake and a few trap hills appeared. Reached the camp at 2
p.m. On our way shot three rock kangaroos.
25th (Sunday).
Rested at camp near Mount Singleton, which I found to be in south
latitude 29 degrees 24 minutes 33 seconds by meridian altitude of sun,
and longitude about 117 degrees 20 minutes east.
26th.
Some delay having occurred in collecting the horses, did not start till 9
a.m., when we steered a little to the north of west towards Damparwar.
For the first seven miles over rough trap hills lightly grassed, when we
entered samphire and saltbush flats for four miles. Crossing a large
marsh at a point where it was only 100 yards wide, and continuing through
thickets, we camped at a spot with very little feed and no water, in
south latitude 29 degrees 21 minutes 48 seconds. From this spot Mount
Singleton bore North 113 degrees 20 minutes East magnetic, distant about
twenty miles. Here we met two natives, whom we had seen on our outward
track at the Warne Corroboree. They were of course friendly, and slept at
our camp; they had a great many dulgates and opossums, which they carried
in a net bag, made out of the inner bark of the ordnance-tree, which
makes a splendid strong cord. They informed us that a native had come
from the eastward with intelligence relating to the encounter we had with
the large tribe on May 31, adding that we had all been killed, and that
all the natives in this vicinity had cried very much on hearing the news.
This is another specimen of the narrations of natives, with whom a tale
never loses anything by being carried.
27th.
Steering a little to the north of west for eighteen miles, we reached
Damparwar Springs, a clear grassy spot of about 300 acres, on west side
of a low granite hill. The spring was dry, but by digging a few feet
obtained abundant supply. From the appearance of the country there has
hardly been any rain in this neighbourhood for many months. Took a round
of angles from a trap hill about two miles distant, Mount Singleton and
many other points being visible. Met a party of friendly natives here. By
meridian altitudes of a Bootes, a Coronae Borealis and a Lyrae (Vega),
Damparwar Spring is in south latitude 29 degrees 16 minutes 32 seconds,
and longitude about 116 degrees 47 minutes East.
28th.
Steering in a southerly direction, and following along the western margin
of a salt lake--most of the way over samphire flats, with thickets
intervening, denser than usual--we encamped on a small grassy spot, with
plenty of water in granite rocks, called Murrunggnulgo, situated close to
the west side of the lake, which I named Lake Monger. The native Jemmy,
in company with some of his friends, stayed behind to-day in order to
catch opossums, and did not join us this evening. By meridian altitudes
of E Bootes, a Coronae Borealis, a Lyrae (Vega), and Aquilae (Altair),
Murrunggnulgo is in south latitude 29 degrees 37 minutes 20 seconds.
Damparwar bearing about north magnetic.
29th.
Moving a little to the west of south for twenty miles, through dense
thickets, by far the worst we have ever encountered, and destitute of
feed, we reached Bera Bera, a grassy spot with a dry well, where water
might be procured. Continuing North 238 degrees East for about five
miles, we reached and camped at some granite rocks, with a fine well of
water called Wandanno, which I found to be in south latitude 29 degrees
57 minutes 14 seconds by meridian altitudes of Lyrae (Vega) and Aquilae
(Altair). From Bera Bera, Mount Singleton bore North 50 degrees 30
minutes East magnetic about fifty miles distant. Jemmy did not put in an
appearance to-day, but sent on a native to say he would join us in a day
or two.
30th.
Travelling about North 212 degrees East magnetic for fourteen miles, over
samphire flats, with thickets intervening, we reached a fine grassy spot,
with water in granite rocks, called Gnookadunging. Continuing about south
for two and a half miles, passed another small grassy spot called
Ginbinning; thence in about the general direction of North 210 degrees
East magnetic. For about eleven and a half miles, over an immense
sand-plain, running as far as the eye could reach to the North-West and
South-East, we camped in the centre of it at a spring called Manginie, a
sheep station belonging to Mr. James Church. Towards the end of the day
Bailey's horse Tommy fairly gave in, and we had great difficulty in
getting him to camp, which Mr. Hamersley and I did not reach until an
hour after dark. The night was cloudy, and I was unable to get any
observations, but luckily at daybreak obtained meridian altitudes of
Jupiter, which placed Manginie Spring in South latitude 30 degrees 21
minutes.
31st.
Steering about South-South-West for thirteen miles, we reached Cooroo
Springs--a fine grassy spot in winter--where we camped, the horses being
very tired. For the first seven miles over scrubby sand-plains; thence to
Cooroo, over grassy country, with spearwood thickets intervening. Tommy
shot a kangaroo this afternoon, which was very acceptable, having had
only damper and tea for several days past.
August 1st (Sunday).
Rested at Cooroo Springs. All very busy putting our ragged clothes in as
good repair as possible. By meridian altitudes of sun, Lyrae (Vega), 32
degrees 15 minutes. Read Divine Service. Jemmy has not yet overtaken us,
so I conclude he has changed his mind, and does not intend following us.
We are now about nine miles from Clarke's homestead, which bears about
South-South-East.
2nd.
Travelling about South-South-East for nine miles over grassy country,
with York gums, etc., we reached the hospitable residence of Mr. Clarke,
where we were very kindly received, and stayed a short time to hear the
news. Resuming for eighteen miles along the road to Newcastle, we passed
Mr. Donald Macpherson's, where I obtained some rations, and pushed on six
miles farther, and bivouacked one mile south of Badgy-Badgy, with very
short feed for our horses.
3rd.
Travelling along the road towards Newcastle for twenty-six miles, we
camped one mile past Byen, and about sixteen miles from Newcastle.
4th.
Reached Newcastle at eleven o'clock, and had just time to report the safe
return of the expedition before the mail left.
5th.
After handing over all the horses provided by the different settlers to
their respective owners, and bidding farewell to Mr. George Monger (who
intends proceeding to York), I left Newcastle in company with Mr. M.
Hamersley and Tommy Windich, leaving Morgan and remainder of equipment to
follow with the cart which had been brought to Newcastle by Ward and C.
Adams. Reached Baylup at 4 p.m.
6th.
Made an early start; reached Guildford at twelve o'clock, where we rested
an hour. Then resuming, reached Perth at 4 p.m., and reported personally
the results of the expedition, having been absent 113 days, in which time
I travelled by computation over 2000 miles.
I now beg to make a few remarks with reference to the main object of the
expedition, which was the discovery of the remains of the late Dr.
Leichardt and party.
THE NATIVES' STORIES.
In the first place, Mr. Frederick Roe was informed by the native
Weilbarrin, that two white men and their native companions had been
killed by the aborigines, thirteen days' journey to the northward, when
he was at a spot called Koolanobbing, which is in south latitude about 30
degrees 53 minutes, and longitude about 119 degrees 14 minutes east. Mr.
Austin lost eleven horses at Poison Rock (nine died, and two were left
nearly dead), which is in latitude 28 degrees 43 minutes 23 seconds
south, and longitude about 118 degrees 38 minutes east, or about 130
miles from Koolanobbing, and in the direction pointed to by the natives.
I therefore imagine it to be very probable that the whole story
originated from the horses lost by Mr. Austin at Poison Rock, as I am
convinced the natives will say anything they imagine will please. Again,
the account given us at Mount Churchman, on May 5th, appeared very
straightforward and truthful. It was very similar to that related to Mr.
Roe; but, on questioning the natives, they at last stated there were
neither men nor guns left, only horses' remains, and pointed towards
Poison Rock. Further, the native who gave all the information to Mr.
Monger was one of our party. His tale, as related by Mr. Monger, also
appeared very straightforward and truthful, that white men had been
killed by the natives twenty years ago; that he had seen the spot, which
was at a spring near a large lake, so large that it looked like the sea
as seen from Rottnest, eleven days' journey from Ningham or Mount
Singleton, in a fine country. The white men were rushed upon while making
a damper, and clubbed and speared. He had often seen an axe which formed
part of the plunder. All this appears feasible and truthful enough in
print; but the question is, Of what value did I find it? Upon telling
Jemmy what Mr. Monger stated he told him, he said he never told him that
he had seen things himself, but that he had heard it from a native who
had seen them, thus contradicting the whole he had formerly stated to Mr.
Monger. Moreover, the fine country he described we never saw, what a
native calls good country being where he can get a drink of water and a
wurrong; and if there is an acre of grassy land they describe it as a
very extensive grassy country! This I have generally found the case. As a
specimen of the untruthfulness of these natives, I may quote that my
native Jemmy, who was a first-rate fellow in every other respect, stated
to Mr. Monger and myself at York, that there was a large river like that
called the Avon at York, to the eastward, knowing at the time he would be
found out to be telling a falsehood. He even told Mr. George Monger,
before leaving Newcastle, to buy hooks, in order to catch the fish that
were in the river, and concluded by stating that we would have great
difficulty in crossing it, as it ran a great distance north and south.
Almost every evening I questioned and cross-questioned him respecting
this river; still he adhered to what he first stated! It may well be
imagined how disappointed we were on reaching the spot to find only a
small brook running into a salt marsh, with water in winter, but dry in
summer.