Explorations in Australia - John Forrest
With reference to the country travelled over, I am of opinion that it is
worthless as a pastoral or agricultural district; and as to minerals I am
not sufficiently conversant with the science to offer an opinion, except
that I should think it was worth while sending geologists to examine it
thoroughly.
CONDUCT OF THE PARTY.
It now becomes my most pleasing duty to record my entire satisfaction
with the manner in which all the members of the expedition exerted
themselves in the performance of their respective duties. To Mr. George
Monger and Mr. Malcolm Hamersley I am indebted for their co-operation and
advice on all occasions. I am also deeply indebted to Mr. Hamersley for
collecting and preserving all the botanical specimens that came within
his reach, as well as the great trouble and care taken with the store
department, placed under his immediate charge. To probation prisoner
David Morgan my best thanks are due as the shoeing smith, as well as
acting cook for the party the whole time. Of Tommy Windich (native) I
cannot speak too highly, being very useful in collecting the horses, as
well as a first-class huntsman, and really invaluable as a water finder.
Accompanying me on many trying occasions, suffering often from want of
water, he showed energy and determination deserving of the highest
praise. Jemmy Mungaro was also a first-class bushman, and invaluable as a
water finder. He was in many ways useful, and very obedient. His great
failing was that he exaggerated--no tale ever losing anything in his
charge. Nevertheless, I have many things to thank him for, and therefore
he deserves praise.
In conclusion, sir, allow me to thank you for your kindness and advice,
which has greatly supported me in this arduous undertaking. I much regret
that an expedition which was so efficiently equipped, and on which I was
left so free to act, has not resulted in more direct benefit to the
colony, to satisfy many who are not capable of appreciating the
importance of such explorations.
I have, Sir, etc.,
JOHN FORREST,
Leader of Expedition.
The Honourable Captain Roe, R.N., Surveyor-General.
So far as the mystery on which the fate of Leichardt is involved was
concerned, my expedition was barren of results; but the additional
knowledge gained of the character of the country between the settled
districts of Western Australia and the 123rd meridian of east longitude,
well repaid me, and those of the party, for the exertions we had
undergone.
REWARDS.
Shortly after my return I received an official communication from Mr.
Barlee, the Colonial Secretary at Perth, announcing that his Excellency
the Governor, with a view to mark his sense of the value of my services
as leader of the expedition, had sanctioned the payment to me of a
gratuity of 50 pounds. Mr. Monger and Mr. Hamersley each received 25
pounds; Morgan, the probation prisoner, who had done good service in the
expedition, especially in looking after the horses, was promised a
remission of a portion of his sentence. Tommy Windich and Jemmy Mungaro,
the natives, had each a single-barrel gun, with his name
inscribed--presents which they highly valued.
So ended the first of my expeditions; and a very short time elapsed
before I was called upon to undertake a longer, more hazardous, and more
important journey.
CHAPTER 3.
SECOND EXPEDITION. FROM PERTH TO ADELAIDE, ROUND THE GREAT BIGHT.
A new Exploration suggested.
Proposal to reach Adelaide by way of the South Coast.
The experience derived from Eyre's Expedition.
Survey of Port Eucla.
Official Instructions.
The Start.
Dempster's Station near Esperance Bay.
The Schooner at Port Eucla.
Journal of the Expedition.
Immediately on my return to Perth a new expedition was suggested by Dr.
Von Mueller, whose anxiety for the discovery of Leichardt was rather
increased than abated by the disappointment experienced. He proposed that
I should start from the upper waters of the Murchison River with a light
party and provisions for six months, and endeavour to reach Carpentaria.
He thought, not only would such an expedition almost certainly find some
traces of the lost explorer, but probably would make geographical
discoveries of the highest interest and importance. In a paper in the
Colonial Monthly he argued that:
"While those who searched after traces of the lost party did not solve
the primary objects of their mission, their labours have not been without
importance to geographical science. The course of one traveller connected
the southern interior of Queensland in a direct route with the vast
pastoral depressions about Lake Torrens; the researches of another
explorer, bent on ascertaining Leichardt's fate, unfolded to us a tract
of table country, now already occupied by herds and flocks, not less in
length than that of Sweden and Italy...We should bear fully in mind how a
line in Leichardt's intended direction would at once enable the squatters
of North-East Australia to drive their surplus of flocks and herds easily
across to the well-watered, hilly and grassy country within close
proximity to the harbour of the north-west coast."
I should have been well satisfied to undertake an expedition in the
proposed direction, starting from the head of the Murchison, and trying
to connect my route with that of Mr. A. Gregory's down Sturt Creek; but
the difficulty of obtaining funds and lack of support caused the project
to be set aside or at least delayed. Mr. Weld, then Governor of Western
Australia, who always heartily supported explorations, was in favour of
an attempt to reach Adelaide by way of the south coast, and offered me
the command of an expedition in that direction.
I readily accepted the offer, and at once busied myself with the
necessary preparations, but was far from being insensible to the
difficulties of the undertaking. Of the route nothing was known except
the disastrous experience of Mr. Eyre in 1840 and 1841. His remarkable
narrative--interesting to all concerned in the history of explorations or
in the records of energy, courage, and perseverance under the most
discouraging circumstances--might have acted as a warning to future
explorers against endeavouring to follow in his track. The fearful
privations he endured, his narrow escape from the most terrible of all
forms of death, were certainly not encouraging; but his experience might
often be of service to others, pointing out dangers to be avoided, and
suggesting methods of overcoming difficulties. At any rate, I was not
deterred from the attempt to trace once more the coast of the Great
Bight, and to reach the sister colony by that route. Eyre had not
discovered any rivers, although it was possible that he might have
crossed the sand-bars of rivers in the night. The difficulties he
laboured under in his almost solitary journey, and the sufferings he
endured, might have rendered him unable to make observations and
discoveries more practicable to a better equipped and stronger party,
while the deficiency of water on the route appeared to offer the greatest
impediment. We were not, however, deterred from the attempt, and on the
30th of March, 1870, we started from Perth on a journey which all knew to
be dangerous, but which we were sanguine enough to believe might produce
considerable results.
That we were not disappointed the result will prove. Indeed, the
difficulties were much fewer than we had been prepared to encounter; and
in five months from the date of departure from Perth we arrived safely at
Adelaide, completing a journey which Mr. Eyre had been more than twelve
months in accomplishing.
THE EXPLORING PARTY.
My party was thus composed: I was leader; the second in command was my
brother, Alexander Forrest, a surveyor; H. McLarty, a police constable;
and W. Osborne, a farrier and shoeing smith, these with Tommy Windich,
the native who had served me so faithfully on the previous expedition,
and another native, Billy Noongale, an intelligent young fellow,
accompanied us.
Before I enter upon the details of my journey it may be useful to state
as briefly as possible the efforts made to obtain a better acquaintance
with the vast territory popularly known as No Man's Land, which had been
traversed by Eyre, and afterwards to summarize the little knowledge which
had been obtained.
In 1860 Major Warburton--who afterwards, in 1873 and 1874, succeeded in
crossing the northern part of the great inland desert, after enduring
great privations--contrived to reach eighty-five miles beyond the head of
the Bight, and made several journeys from the coast in a north and
north-westerly direction for a distance of about sixty miles. Traces of
Eyre's expedition were then visible. The holes he had dug in search of
water twenty years before were still there, and the records of his
journey were of great value as guiding Warburton's movements. His
experience of the nature of the country amply confirmed that of the
previous explorer. He found the district to the north to be a dreary
waste, destitute of food and water. Rain seldom fell, and, when it did,
was immediately absorbed by the arid soil. Bustards and moles were the
only living creatures. To the north-west there was a little grass, but
the tract showing verdure was very small in extent, and beyond it was
again the scorched, barren, inhospitable desert.
Two years afterwards other explorations were attempted, and especially
should be noted Captain Delessier's. He was disposed to think more
favourably of the nature of the country. The enterprise of squatters
seeking for "fresh fields and pastures new," to whom square miles
represent less than acres to graziers and sheep farmers in England--is
not easily daunted. They made a few settlements; but the scanty pasturage
and the difficulty of obtaining water, by sinking wells, in some
instances to the depth of over 200 feet, have been great drawbacks.
DISCOVERY OF PORT EUCLA.
It might naturally be inquired why no attempts were made to reach the
coast of the Great Bight by sea? Why so much suffering has been endured
when a well-equipped vessel might have landed explorers at various points
and been ready to afford them assistance? In his explorations to the
north of Western Australia, Mr. F. Gregory had a convenient base of
operations in the Dolphin, a barque which remained on the coast. It might
seem that similar aid could have been afforded to Warburton and others
who attempted to trace the south-coast line. But for hundreds of miles
along the shores of the Bight no vessel could reach the shore or lie
safely at anchor. Long ranges of perpendicular cliffs, from 300 to 400
feet high, presented a barrier effectually forbidding approach by sea.
About 1867, however, an excellent harbour was discovered about 260 miles
to the west of Fowler's Bay. The South Australian Government at once
undertook a survey of this harbour, and Captain Douglas, President of the
Marine Board, the officer entrusted with this duty, reported in the most
favourable terms. The roadstead, named Port Eucla, was found to afford
excellent natural protection for shipping. There was, however, the less
encouraging circumstance that it was situated a few miles to the west of
the boundary of the colony, and consequently Western, and not South,
Australia was entitled to the benefit of the discovery.
It was evident that Port Eucla, which Captain Douglas carefully surveyed
by taking soundings and observing bearings, was the key to the
exploration of this vast portion of the continent. But, notwithstanding
the propositions made to the Government of Western Australia by the York
Agricultural Society for equipping an exploring party, nothing was done
until the beginning of 1870, when the Governor determined on equipping an
overland party intended to make its way, keeping as far inland as
possible, to Eucla, where assistance and supplies would await them. It
was this expedition which I was selected to command. The following copy
of official instructions will show the object of the exploration and the
preparations made to insure a fair prospect of a successful result:--
OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.
Colonial Secretary's Office, Perth,
March 29th, 1870.
SIR,
His Excellency the Governor, confiding in your experience, ability, and
discretion, has been pleased to entrust to your charge and leadership an
overland expedition, which has been organized for the purpose of
exploring the country between the settled portions of this colony and the
Port of Eucla, situated near its east boundary.
Your party will consist of the following six persons, well armed, and
provisioned for two months, namely, yourself as leader; Mr. Alexander
Forrest, your brother, as second in command; H. McLarty, a
police-constable, third in command; W.H. Osborne, farrier, etc.; and two
reliable natives, one of whom will be your former well-tried companion,
Windich. An agreement to serve under you on the expedition in the above
capacities will be signed by each European named previous to starting.
Ample stores and supply of provisions have been prepared for your use,
and a suitable coasting vessel (the schooner Adur) is engaged, under an
experienced commander, to convey them where required, and to be at your
disposal in aiding the operations of the expedition.
It is desirable the party should start from Perth as soon as all
arrangements have been completed, and take the most convenient route to
Esperance Bay, where men and horses can be recruited, further supplies
from the coaster laid in, and a fresh start made for Eucla so soon as the
first winter rains may lead to a prospect of the country being
sufficiently watered.
About 120 miles to the eastward of the station of Messrs. Dempster, at
the west end of Esperance Bay, lies Israelite Bay, under some islands, in
front of which there is said to be anchorage. That being the nearest
known anchorage westward of Eucla, it appears to offer a convenient spot
whence fresh supplies might be drawn from your coaster with which to
prosecute the remaining 300 miles; but this arrangement as to an
intermediate place of call will be liable to modification, after
consulting on the spot with the Messrs. Dempster, who are well acquainted
with that part of the coast.
Between Israelite Bay and Eucla the route should be as far from the coast
as circumstances and the nature of the country will admit.
At Eucla all the remaining provisions and stores that may be required
should be landed, and the coaster despatched on her return to Fremantle
with a report of your proceedings.
After recruiting at Eucla, five or six days might be employed with
advantage in exploring the country to the northward, care being taken to
place in security, by burying in casks or otherwise, such provisions,
etc., as might not be necessary for the northern excursion.
On returning to Eucla from the north, the expedition is to make a final
start overland for Adelaide, by such route as you may deem advisable. The
Surveyor-General is of opinion that via Port Lincoln, and thence to
Adelaide by steamer, would be the preferable route; but of this you will
be the best judge, after receiving information from the various
out-stations you will pass. Before leaving South Australia, you will
dispose of your horses and such remaining stores and provisions as may
not be further required, retaining all instruments and such pack-saddles
and other articles of outfit as you may deem worth preserving for future
service.
On arriving at Adelaide you will report yourself to his Excellency the
Governor, and avail yourself of the first favourable opportunity of
returning to Perth with your party, and with the remains of your outfit,
either by any vessel about to proceed direct to the Swan, or by the
earliest mail-steamer to King George's Sound. On application to his
Excellency, Sir James Fergusson, you will be furnished with such means as
may be necessary to defray your expenses from South to Western Australia,
as well as during your stay in the former colony.
I am to impress on you the advisability of endeavouring, by every means
in your power, to cultivate friendly relations with the aboriginal
inhabitants of the country you are about to traverse.
Such are briefly the general instructions by which it is intended you
should be governed in conducting the expedition entrusted to your care
and guidance; and I may add that the fullest confidence is placed in your
energy, zeal, and discretion, for bringing it to a successful issue. The
main objects of the undertaking are alone referred to; and, although a
mode of accomplishing them is briefly alluded to, it is by no means
intended to fetter your judgment in adopting such measures of minor
details as may appear to you necessary for effectually carrying them out.
I have the honour to be, Sir, your obedient servant,
FRED. P. BARLEE.
DEPARTURE FROM PERTH.
The Adur, chartered by the Government, was a vessel of thirty tons, owned
by Mr. Gabriel Adams. It gives me much pleasure to express my thanks to
him and to Mr. Waugh, the master, and to the crew of the vessel, for the
important services they performed, and the zeal they exhibited in
rendering me assistance, not only on board the vessel, but also on shore.
We started from Perth on the afternoon of Wednesday, the 30th of March,
1870. His Excellency the Governor accompanied us for about three miles on
the Albany Road. We had fifteen horses, and provisions sufficient for the
journey to Esperance Bay, a distance of about 450 miles, where, it was
arranged, further supplies would await us. By the 5th of April we had
reached Kojonup, travelling in a north-easterly direction, and then
rested four days, leaving for Jerramungup on the 9th, and reaching it on
the 13th. Our first day's journey brought us to Mr. Graham's homestead,
near which we bivouacked; thence our route lay in an easterly direction,
at first through good grassy country with jam and white gum trees and
shea oaks, by way of Etticup, Martinup (where we bivouacked on the night
of the 10th), and Nigalup, beyond which were scrubby sand-plains
extending southwards towards the Stirling range. On the following night
we camped near some granite rocks. The next day's journey extended to
Koorarkup, where we again rested. Our rate of travel was from twenty to
twenty-five miles a day, and already we began to experience inconvenience
from want of water. A little stream, the Pallinup, was salt, and there
were salt pools on the route between our last camping-place and
Koorarkup, where we were now resting.
Around Jerramungup was rich grassy country, but beyond it we passed over
scrubby undulating plains for about sixteen miles, camping, on the night
of the 14th, on a small branch of the Fitzgerald River, near some granite
rocks called Dwertup. At this spot there was water, but very little feed
for the horses. My observations showed that we were in latitude 33
degrees 1 minute 15 seconds south.
From this point the progress will be best narrated by extracts from my
Diary. A reference to the map will show that as yet we had not reached
the track of Eyre, who had followed the coast to King George's Sound; but
by the 16th of April we had reached his line of route.
April 15th.
Travelled to the north of east, and at seven miles crossed the main
branch of the Fitzgerald River; granite rocks in bed, and saltwater
pools. After travelling over stony undulating country for twenty-one
miles, camped on a small patch of feed, with water in some granite rocks,
called Coombedup.
16th.
Continuing easterly over rough stony country, crossing several brooks
with salt pools of water in them, we reached the Phillips River, and,
after a good deal of searching, found some fresh water in a small brook
near the river. The immense pools in the Phillips were as salt as sea
water. Distance travelled about twenty-five miles.
VIEW OF THE SEA.
17th (Sunday).
Did not travel. Went this morning, in company with McLarty, to the summit
of a high hill in Eyre's Range, called Annie's Peak, which we reached
after one and a half hour's hard climbing. It is the steepest hill I ever
attempted to ascend. We had a splendid view of the sea--the first since
leaving Perth--and I also obtained a fine round of angles and bearings.
On our return, found Billy had shot five ducks, and Tommy soon returned
with an emu. In the evening it very suddenly came on to thunder and
lighten, and soon rained in torrents, and, as we were rather unprepared,
we did not pass a very pleasant night.
18th.
Just as we had collected the horses it commenced to rain in torrents; got
under way, however, by 9 o'clock, steering in about an easterly direction
over sandy, scrubby country, and at ten miles crossed a brook with salt
pools in it, and afterwards reached a large river of salt water, which we
followed about two miles, and then camped at a spring called Jerdacuttup.
It rained in torrents the whole day, blowing hard from the southward, so
that all were drenched when we halted.
19th.
After travelling about twenty-three miles, in an easterly direction, we
reached a salt lake, called Parriup, and camped. Procured water on some
granite rocks near camp.
20th.
Travelling nine miles, reached Mr. Campbell Taylor's station on the
Oldfield River, and rested for the remainder of the day.
21st.
After starting the party, with instructions to reach and camp on north
side of Stokes' Inlet, distant about twenty miles, I went with Mr. Taylor
to the mouth of the Oldfield River, in order to take bearings to East
Mount Barren, but was disappointed, the weather being very hazy.
Accompanied by a native of Mr. Taylor's, followed on the tracks, but,
night setting in, we made the best of our way to where I expected to find
the party, but could see nothing of them, and were obliged to camp for
the night without food, and, what was worse, without a fire, having
neither matches nor powder with us. Luckily I had a rug, by which means I
fared much better than my companion, who had only a small kangaroo skin.
As it blew and rained in torrents most of the night, our position can be
better imagined than described.
22nd.
Early this morning we were looking for the tracks of the party, but
without success; finally we returned eight miles to the Margaret River,
and, after a good deal of searching, found the tracks almost obliterated
by the rain, and followed along them. Upon nearing Stokes' Inlet we met
Tommy Windich looking for us, he having seen the tracks and last night's
bivouac. He informed me that they had camped about four miles westward of
the inlet, and we had therefore passed them in the dark last night. Made
all haste to overtake the party; succeeded in doing so, after a great
deal of trouble, one hour and a half after dark. Encamped on north side
of Barker's Inlet, at a small well of water called Booeynup. We did
justice to the supper, as we had not had anything to eat for thirty-two
hours.
23rd.
For the first nine miles over scrubby sand-plains, kangaroos very
numerous, when we came into and skirted a chain of salt lakes and
marshes. Continuing over generally low country, well grassed, for five
miles, we reached and camped at the old homestead of the Messrs.
Dempster, called Mainbenup.
ESPERANCE BAY.
24th (Sunday).
Left camp in company with Billy Noongale, and proceeded to Esperance Bay,
distant twenty-four miles. On getting in view of the Bay, was much
disappointed to see no schooner lying at anchor, and felt very anxious
for her safety. Was very kindly received by Mrs. Andrew Dempster; the
Messrs. Dempster being away on Mondrain Island.
25th.
Went several times up on the hill, looking out for the Adur, but was each
time disappointed. On my return in the evening, found the party had
arrived from Mainbenup, and had camped.
26th.
Rained very heavily all last night. Shifted camp over one mile west of
homestead to a sheltered spot, where there was feed and wood. No signs of
the Adur.
27th and 28th.
Rested at camp; the weather very stormy. The Messrs. Dempster returned
from Mondrain Island this evening.
29th.
Shifted camp back to the homestead, and camped in a sheltered nook near
the Head. On ascending the Look-out Hill this evening, was rejoiced to
espy the Adur near Cape Le Grand, making in for the Bay, and at 8 o'clock
went off in Messrs. Dempster's boat, and had the great pleasure of
finding all hands well. They had experienced heavy weather, but
everything was dry and safe. I cannot find words to express the joy and
relief from anxiety this evening; all fears and doubts were at an end,
and I was now in a position to attempt to carry out my instructions.
The Messrs. Dempster, whose hospitality was so welcome, are good
specimens of the enterprising settlers who are continually advancing the
frontiers of civilization, pushing forward into almost unknown regions,
and establishing homesteads which hereafter may develop into important
towns. In ten days we had journeyed 160 miles, and had enjoyed a
foretaste of the nature of the country through which we should have to
make our way. Four days' rest recruited our energies, and the arrival of
the Adur, with stores, gave all the party excellent spirits.