From Yauco to Las Marias - Karl Stephen Herrman
[Illustration: Mouth of the Mayaguez River.]
During the first hour of our fighting all the powder used by us was as
smokeless as that of the foe, and again and again the remark was passed
that this did not seem like the real business of war. In other respects
as well there were few of the accompaniments that we conjure up in our
stay-at-home imagination of battle scenes. There was a little galloping of
hooves, not long sustained; an occasional sharp cry of command or sharper
oath; an intermittent rumble and jar from the infrequently moved artillery,
not yet in action; and perhaps a groan or two from the wounded. But, even
when the field-rifles began to boom and shroud the landscape in drifting
smoke, the make-believe aspect of the affair did not in any degree
diminish. There were no clouds of dust, no heaps of slain, no cheers, no
desperate charges, and not even a glimpse of the stars and stripes. Away
to our right we could see crowds of spectators on the elevated platform
surrounding the Sanctuary of Montserrate; and I remember thinking it was
well no admission fee had been charged for the spectacle upon which they
gazed, else they would have murmured themselves defrauded.
[Illustration: A Bit of Yauco.]
My own most thrilling moments came about in this way: The platoon of
artillery to which I belonged had, as already related, decided that its
position directly behind the hotly beset infantry was untenable, and
consequently fell back at speed, for some distance. Standing at the head of
the first piece, with all my faculties engrossed by the scene before me, I
did not hear the order which should have sent me scampering to my seat on
the limber-chest, and so suddenly found myself alone, with my comrades
mounted and away in full career. A glance about me disclosed the fact that
no other living thing was standing up within a radius of five hundred
yards. I was a conspicuous mark for the eager slayers in the adjacent
underbrush; and I ought, of course, to rejoin my section as quickly as
possible. So I ran. It occurred to me that here was my chance to show what
I was made of. I would stop running, fill and light my pipe, and stalk in
a leisurely manner down the white road, thus winning, perhaps, comment
and applause from high places. I say all this occurred to me; but I also
happened to recollect the story told of the survivor of Bull Run, who
replied to a sneering criticism anent the Federal retreat from that famous
field by the sententious rejoinder that "all them as didn't run was there
yet,"--and I felt that I could fully appreciate the point. So I continued
to sprint as fast as I could, leaving the bubble Reputation for other
seekers, or for myself upon some other day and field. I was not afraid, and
I was simply doing my duty; but I sometimes think that I may have neglected
the flood-tide of opportunity, and I often wonder why, in melodramatic
crises, a man's mind is not always able to control his legs.
I was not alone in the disregard of romantic possibilities. Later in the
afternoon I saw a wounded private propped up against a fence, and bleeding
copiously from a bullet-hole that extended through both cheeks. His eyes
were closed, and he was making queer noises in his throat. As I happened to
be idle at the instant, I stepped to his side, and inquired compassionately
if I could do anything for him. He opened his eyes with a jerk, spat forth
a couple of teeth, and replied: "If you'll tell me how the beginning of
'Sweet Marie' goes, I'll give you a piece of my face for a souvenir. I've
been trying to get that blame tune straight for the last fifteen minutes,
but keep getting off my trolley." And he laughed a ghastly laugh. I stared
at him in amazement, and then, seeing that he was not delirious, strode
moodily away. What that man ought to have said was, "How goes the fight?"
or "A drop of water, for God's sake"; but it is the painful truth that he
didn't.
[Illustration: Wooden Dock at Mayaguez. In the Offing can be seen the
German Man-of-war "Geier."]
A striking feature of the engagement was the thoroughly matter-of-fact
manner in which both officers and men went about their work. There was no
strutting, no posing, no shirking, but an evident intention on the part
of all concerned, from General Schwan down, to do whatever had to be done
without unnecessary fuss and feathers, promptly and well. I have seen far
more excitement displayed on an ordinary drill-ground at home, in the
piping times of peace.
A sudden appearance of the flag just after the trumpets had sounded "cease
firing" brought moisture to the eyes of many a toughened veteran; but even
then, with victory still glowing in our grasp, there was not the ghost of a
cheer. We were simply more tired and hungry than usual, and until matters
had been straightened out for the night had no time for sentiment. And,
when we finally went into camp on the very field where we had just ceased
fighting, we found our chief interest centred in hot coffee, crisp
hard-tack, and comfortable blankets. We had begun to realize that we might
have lain stiffer and starker that night but for the whim of chance, and
were silent with the clacking tongue.
* * * * *
Hormigueros, the village which gave its name to this engagement, is a place
of about 3,000 inhabitants, whose houses cluster about the base of the
mountain crowned by the Sanctuary of Montserrate. This church is visited by
an endless stream of pilgrims, and many wild legends are told concerning
it.
[Illustration: "Eleventh of August" Street.]
CHAPTER VII
The Occupation of Mayaguez
_We enter the city in triumph--An enthusiastic reception--A pretty girl
and the star-spangled banner--Other memorable incidents--Our rags and
tatters--A description of Mayaguez--We pitch our tents in a swamp--The
First Kentucky Volunteers._
As early as half-past eight on the following morning--August 11--our scouts
entered the city of Mayaguez, some three or four miles distant from our
camp of the night before. About an hour later Captain Macomb marched his
troop through the streets, accompanied by the brigade headquarters staff.
Many prominent citizens greeted General Schwan at the Casa del Rey, and
declared themselves subject to his orders.
At eleven o'clock the entire brigade entered Mayaguez, with the general
riding at its head, colors flying, and band playing.
We had been through this triumphal entry business several times before; but
I, for one, never grew tired of it. It was for all the world like being in
the procession of a great circus. The sidewalks, balconies, windows, and
roof-tops were packed with wide-eyed humanity, of all ages and conditions,
hues, sizes, and degrees of beauty. At every street corner, and in every
square, great crowds of the lower classes rent the air with vivas and
bravos, regulating their enthusiasm by the size of the guns that swung past
them. It is easy enough for some grades of mankind to cheer with frenzy the
appearance of a victor, no matter who he be; and a Chinese host would
have been received with just as much acclaim as we were, had they come as
conquering heroes. The houses of the aristocrats sent us no demonstration
of feeling one way or the other, with a single startling and highly
dramatic exception. We had turned from the Calle Mirasol into the Calle
Candalaria, and the head of the column had almost reached the Plaza
Principal. The band had just crashed into "The Stars and Stripes Forever."
Suddenly the crowd on an upper balcony of a stately house to the left was
seen to sway violently; and a moment later a beautiful young girl, tears
streaming from her eyes, leant far out over the rail, and waved a crudely
made Old Glory over the ragged ranks below. For a breath we were struck
dumb by this apparition. Then every hat came off; and for the first time
that day we split the heavens with a cheer,--lustily and long. The outbreak
was infectious, and from every side the clamor swelled and burst till it
seemed as if the universe had vaulted into mad tumult at the touch of a
girl's hand. Her name was Catalina Palmer, and she has since married an
American lieutenant. But that, as Kipling would say, is another story.
[Illustration: The Officers of the Alphonso XIII Regiment of Cazadores,
taken a few days before the Fight with the American Troops at Hormigueros.]
At one corner a richly dressed old woman threw handful after handful
of small silver coins among us. In several places we trod upon great
quantities of flowers thrown in our path by peasant girls. The flags of
England, Germany, France, and Italy, were everywhere to be seen. The
quaintly uniformed corps of firemen turned out in splendor to do us honor,
and we saluted with grave dignity the immense statue of Columbus standing
in the centre of the town. By those who entered Mayaguez that day none of
these things will ever be forgotten.
From a spectacular point of view I am inclined to believe that Kiralfy
would have regarded us with scorn and derision, though Jack Falstaff
might have been better pleased. We were gaunt, bronzed, and dishevelled,
unshaven, dirty, and tattered. Toes protruded from shoes, our hats were
full of holes, our trousers hardly deserved the name, and we limped
disgracefully. It was the popular impression in Puerto Rico that every
American soldier was a full-fledged millionaire, but even they expressed
some disappointment at our evident disregard for the external superfluities
of elegance. But, when you stop to consider it, we did not go to the
Antilles to make love to the pretty girls. We were quite sufficiently
clothed and fed to march through tropical underbrush, take several cities,
and put our more gaudily equipped enemies to ignominious flight. And that
is what we were there for.
[Illustration: The Military Hospital, Mayaguez.]
In the early part of the afternoon we went into camp about a mile and a
half outside the city lines, and the main body remained here until August
13. The camping-ground was a bad one, lying as it did in a bowl formed by a
circle of low hills; and it was soaked and spongy to a degree approaching
absolute swampiness. As we were not allowed to go into the city, we
grudgingly sat still, and chanted our misery to the unresponsive
wilderness, getting our feet wet and gathering the frolicsome malaria germ
by way of interlude.
On the evening of our arrival a transport steamed into the bay, having on
board the First Kentucky Volunteers, who for some weeks afterward were
quartered in the town, doing provost duty and breaking hearts. Later on we
came to know them well; and, when they marched away to Ponce, we missed
them sadly. They had lots of money, and they spent it freely. We of the
regular brigade had not been paid for three months.
* * * * *
Mayaguez is a darling little city on the western coast of Puerto Rico,--a
place of lattices, balconies, and walled-in gardens ablaze with blossoms.
Behind it lies a semicircle of green hills, and before it is the laughing
sea. Columbus touched here in one of his earlier voyages, and historical
associations have been accumulating ever since.
It is the third largest town on the island, having a population of 25,000,
the majority of whom are white. The harbor is next best to that at
San Juan,--102 miles distant,--and is an open roadstead formed by two
projecting capes. It is a seaport of considerable commerce, and
exports sugar, coffee, oranges, pineapples, and cocoanuts in large
quantities,--principally, with the exception of coffee, to the United
States. Of industry not much can be said, save that there are three
manufactories of chocolate, solely for local consumption. The climate is
excellent, the temperature never exceeding 90 deg. F.
[Illustration: Part of the Village of Maricao.]
The city is connected by tramway with the neighboring town of Aguadilla,
and by railroad with Lares on one side and Hormigueros on the other. It
has a civil and military hospital, two asylums, a public library, three
bridges, a handsome market,--the best on the island, constructed entirely
of iron and stone, at a cost of 70,000 pesos,--a slaughter-house, a
theatre, a casino, and a number of societies of instruction, recreation,
and commerce. It also has a post-office and telegraph station; was founded
in 1760, and given the title of city in 1877.
A river called the Mayaguez divides the town into two parts, connected by
two pretty iron bridges named Marina and Guenar, respectively. The sands of
this river formerly yielded much gold; and there is gold still to be had
from the same source, if one has energy enough to seek it. There are no
less than 37 streets and 4 squares,--the Principal, Mercado, Iglesia, and
Teatro,--all adorned by dainty fountains, and, in one instance,--the Plaza
del Teatro,--a veritable ocean of flowers as well. The Calle Mendez-Vigo
is one of the most picturesque and attractive streets in the world. It
stretches from one end of the town to the other, wide and beautifully
clean; and it is lined on either hand by the handsome houses of rich
merchants. In the middle of its length lies the Plaza del Flores, between
the theatre and the Hotel Paris. Moreover, it is in the Calle Mendez-Vigo
that there lives the prettiest girl in Puerto Rico,--a little maid of
sixteen years, Esperanza Bages by name, and already famous for her charms.
The church was built in 1760. It is of masonry, with two towers and
magnificent altars. The town hall, situated on the Plaza Principal, is a
good stone building of two stories. Annexed to it is the Casa del Rey,
built in 1832, and serving for offices of the military commandancy. The
infantry barracks--Cuartel del Infanteria--is also a building of modern
construction, dating from 1848; and, though of simple architecture, it is
very capacious.
And now let us leave Mayaguez for a little while, and get on with the war.
[Illustration: Infantry Barracks, Mayaguez.]
CHAPTER VIII
The Engagement at Las Marias
_Difficulties encountered in locating the retreating enemy_--_Final
determination upon pursuit_--_Lieutenant-Colonel Burke sets
forth_--_Discovery of Spanish troops near Las Marias_--_A one-sided
encounter_--_Unwelcome notification of truce_--_The rest of the brigade
comes up_--_Feeding the prisoners_--_Our disappointment_.
HEADQUARTERS INDEPENDENT BRIGADE (REGULARS),
MAYACUEZ, PUERTO RICO,
Aug. 22, 1898.
GENERAL J.C. GILMORE, Headquarters of the Army, Ponce, P.R.
_Sir_,--... Detachments from the cavalry troop went out (from Mayaguez) in
the afternoon of the 11th on both roads leading to Lares; but the left hand
or westerly of these roads was followed only a short distance, information,
thought to be reliable, having been received to the effect that the bulk of
the enemy's force had taken the more easterly road, on which the town of
Maricao is situated. This part of the force was reported as making fair
headway, having only a pack-train as transportation. Reports also came to
brigade headquarters that Spanish troops in large numbers, coming from
different places,--including Aguadilla and Pepino,--were concentrating to
attack my command. While not impressed with the accuracy of these reports,
I had the outposts strengthened, and placed a field officer in charge of
them. A party from the outposts, sent to reconnoitre the Las Marias road,
brought word on the afternoon of the 12th that the rear-guard of the
Spanish was still within five miles of Mayaguez, and proceeding slowly.
[Illustration: The Rosario River, near Hormigueros.]
I immediately determined to pursue and, if possible, to capture or destroy
this force, and at first resolved to move out with the entire command.
On reflection, however, I realized that there were objections to such a
course. The city and surrounding country were in an unsettled and excited
state, the latter swarming with guerillas, deserters, and bushwackers. I
had no accurate knowledge of the spirit, strength, and location of the
enemy's forces, supposed to be within easy reach of Mayaguez. Then, too,
the rest of my command, already worn down by the exhausting marches and
operations beginning on the 9th, had been seriously broken in upon by
heavy outpost duty and drenching rains, which latter had made their camp a
veritable mud-hole. Furthermore, the road to Lares, except for the first
eight miles out, was said to be all but impassable for wheeled vehicles;
and this reminded me that the major-general commanding had intimated that
I might have to go to Lares by way of Aguadilla. I therefore concluded
to despatch a reconnoissance in force, under Lieutenant-Colonel Burke,
Eleventh Infantry, to harass the enemy and to retard its progress in every
way. The detachment was made up of six companies of infantry and one
platoon each of cavalry and artillery, and started at ten o'clock A.M. on
August 12. It was given ample transportation for its three days' rations
and the infantrymen's packs. It was therefore as mobile as it could be
made without a pack-train. Hindered by excessive heat, followed by heavy
showers, it marched only to a point where the two roads, above mentioned,
are joined by a cross-road,--or about nine miles. I did not hear from
Colonel Burke during the night, as I had hoped to; and the remainder of my
command had its wagons packed, and was preparing to pull out on the morning
of the 13th, when a courier came to me from him with a report of the
difficulties that had retarded his progress, and of the presence of a
Spanish force near Las Marias, variously estimated at from 1,200 to 2,500.
This force, the colonel said, had taken up a defensive position; and he was
moving toward it...
Respectfully submitted,
THEODORE SCHWAN, _Brigadier-General Commanding_.
[Illustration: A Street in San German.]
MAYAGUEZ, PUERTO RICO, Aug. 16.
_My dear Gilmore_,--Availing myself of the first breathing-spell I have had
for some time, I wish in this informal way and in advance of my regular
report to say a few words to the general and yourself regarding our last
Saturday's work (August 13).
As soon as the result of the Hormigueros fight became known in
Mayaguez--about nine o'clock on the 10th--Colonel Soto, the commander,
"pulled up stakes." That the Spanish troops left in the greatest hurry the
condition of their barracks abundantly evidenced. Our advance-guard found
the city entirely clear of the Spanish, and I ordered my cavalry to keep
in touch with them. The cavalry took the right-hand road of the two roads
leading to Lares, over which some of the Spanish troops had actually gone;
and in the evening the troop commander reported that they were between
seven and ten miles off, and still retreating. My command was thoroughly
tired. No one without witnessing it can conceive the distress an infantry
soldier suffers while marching in this hot climate, in a deep column,
weighted down as he is even without his pack; and some rest seemed actually
imperative. But the next morning I found that the main body of the
Spanish had taken the westerly (or left hand) road to Lares, and early on
Friday--there being many other things to engage the attention of myself and
troops--I started Burke out in pursuit, with about 700 men, all told. I
overtook him Saturday morning about three and one-half miles north of
Las Marias. His infantry had pulled his guns over roads that were almost
perpendicular. His troops were exchanging shots at long range across a deep
valley with the retreating Spaniards, most of whom had forded (losing a lot
of men, who were drowned) a deep and rapid river known in that country
as the Rio Prieto. Our fire had already demoralized the thoroughly
disheartened and half-famished Spanish soldiers; and their rear-guard, at
least, was also disorganized and hiding in the hills.
[Illustration: Tobacco Plantation (cutting leaves), Mayaguez.]
A company of infantry I had sent out brought in, about ten o'clock in the
evening, forty odd prisoners, a number of pack-animals, etc. Our men were
thoroughly worn out by the day's work. Early the next morning I had four
companies of infantry, the cavalry, and two guns ready to resume the
pursuit. And there cannot be the shadow of a doubt that, had I had five
more hours, I should have taken Lares; for that the flying Spaniards had
prepared to abandon it at once I have the most reliable information. But
at this particular juncture the notice that hostilities would be suspended
came to me. No troops ever "suspended" with worse grace. We had given the
Spanish no peace, and had taken all the starch out of them. The colonel and
lieutenant-colonel had surrendered. Their troops were utterly demoralized
and disintegrated. It seemed a pity to deprive us of the full fruits of a
victory for which we had labored so hard; but of course we had to bow to
the inevitable. Please let the general read this.
Faithfully your friend,
THEO. SCHWAN.
The part of our command left under Colonel DeRussy set out on the morning
of the 13th to join the rest of the column, whose movements you have
already followed in the preceding documents. The last detachment found it
no less difficult to make headway than had the first; and on the morning of
the 14th the entire brigade was so broken up and strung out that its head
and tail were a good nine miles apart. So much trouble had been experienced
in getting the artillery up the incredibly steep mountain-sides that no
one had been able to give assistance or even thought to the hopelessly
embarrassed wagon-train, and consequently we were practically without food
for over twenty-four hours. When at last something to eat did come plodding
along, we were obliged to put up with half-rations in order that our little
collection of recently acquired prisoners might be fed. At a conservative
estimate, those prisoners must have been the hungriest lot of men that ever
laid down their arms. There were less than sixty of them, and they drew
rations for about 1,200. However, they were fed; and we had the consolation
of realizing that victory, like some other things of less familiar
acquaintance, is its own reward. By noon on the 14th, everything was once
more in order; and I have not yet ceased to wonder how those in authority
managed to erase so quickly the chaos of the night before.
[Illustration: The Plaza Principal in Mayaguez, looking toward the Church.]
The engagement at Las Marias, while not particularly momentous in itself,
was note-worthy as being the last between our forces and those of Spain
during the recent war. I do not believe that the knowledge of this
fact--even had we possessed it at the time--would have materially consoled
us for the disappointment we felt in being obliged to stop shooting just
when we had learned to do it so beautifully; but, still, it is something to
have been in at the finish.
CHAPTER IX
The Territory Won
_General Schwan returns to Mayaguez_--_Business and pleasure_--_A custom
we abolished_--_Extent of the district captured by our brigade_
--_Aguadllla_--_Facilities for transportation_--_Labor and
the laborer_--_The cost of living_--_Rents and real estate_--_Skilled
workmen_--_A word about investments_.
On August 16, in obedience to orders from Army Headquarters, General Schwan
left the bulk of his troops in the positions they had respectively occupied
at the time of the receipt of the truce, and, accompanied by the artillery,
returned to Mayaguez. The people of this city had not yet recovered from
the ferment into which they had been thrown by our advent, and went about
in a state of tremulous titillation, expecting I know not what. At any
rate, it did not seem to arrive; and after a day or two had passed without
any sign of fell intent upon our part the merchants allowed themselves to
be coaxed back into their places of business. The cafes were once more
thronged. Semi-weekly concerts were given in the Plaza Principal by the
band of the Eleventh Infantry and the Banda del Bomberos, in alternation.
Balls, dinner-parties, and flirtations resumed their interrupted course,
gathering new zest and brilliancy from the foreign element within the
gates. All the Americans began to study Spanish, and all the Puerto Ricans
to study English, without particularly gratifying results on either side.
Cocking-mains, local games of chance, and more hectic immoralities were set
forth for the delectation of the private soldiers; while I have personal
knowledge of at least one quasi-clandestine bullfight, that may be best
described as a furtive fizzle.
Strict measures were taken by the brigade commander to prevent
anything resembling disorderly conduct among his men, and though these
laurel-crowned heroes, under the influence of a wonderfully cheap rum, were
seized at odd moments with an evident desire to start the war all over
again, there was not much difficulty encountered in maintaining a degree of
decorum that was highly satisfactory.
The sanitation of the municipality was rigorously inquired into, and
regulated; but it is only justice to the residents of Mayaguez to say that
little reform was necessary in this regard, as the current statistics of
mortality and disease amply proved. Of the few changes made, however, one
may be specifically mentioned.