The World of Waters - Mrs. David Osborne
MRS. WILTON. "The population of Peru consists principally of
Indians, Spaniards and Negroes. The first are represented by
travellers as in the lowest stage of civilization, without any
desire for the comforts of civilized life, immersed in sloth and
apathy, from which they can rarely be roused, except when they have
an opportunity of indulging to excess in ardent spirits, of which
they are excessively fond. They are dirty in the extreme, seldom
taking off their clothes even to sleep, and still more rarely using
water. Their habitations are miserable hovels, destitute of every
convenience and disgustingly filthy."
MR. WILTON. "The Peruvians had at one time a curious contrivance for
crossing their rivers. They did not know how to make a bridge of
wood or stone; but necessity, the parent of invention, supplied that
defect. They formed cables of great strength, by twisting together
some of the pliable withes or osiers with which their country
abounds; six of these cables they stretched across the stream
parallel to one another, and made them fast on each side; these they
bound firmly together, by inter-weaving smaller ropes so close as to
form a compact piece of net-work, which being covered with branches
of trees and earth, they passed along it with tolerable security.
Proper persons were appointed to attend to each bridge, to keep it
in repair, and to assist passengers."
GEORGE. "Almost as clever a contrivance as the bridge of the present
day, although neither so strong nor durable. They were a persevering
people."
EMMA. "The Gulf of Guayaquil is so called from a river of this name
which is famous for its shifting sand-banks, on which as the water
recedes alligators are left in great numbers. The Bay of Choco is on
the same coast (Columbia), and is the scene of continual storms. The
greatest riches in washed gold are deposited in the provinces of
Choco. The largest piece found there weighed twenty-five pounds; but
this country, so rich in gold, is at the same time scourged with
continual famine."
GRANDY. "Proving that gold is only valuable as the means of
procuring the necessaries of life, and enabling its possessor to
benefit his fellow-creatures. 'Whoso seeth his brother have need,
and shutteth up his compassion, how dwelleth the love of God in
him?' The people here value not the gold, for it is unable to buy
them freedom from the awful scourge."
DORA. "Emma, the Bay of Choco is on the coast of Granada, which,
although it is a district of Columbia, is large enough to be
regarded with some attention, particularly as it is actually one of
the three great divisions of Columbia."
CHARLES. "Nearly in the same latitude, just over the equator, are
the Galapagos. They are pretty islands: the cactus and aloe cover
the sides of the rocks, flamingoes and turtle-doves fill the air,
and the beach is covered with enormous turtle. But no trace whatever
indicates the residence of man, and I believe no man has ever landed
on these lonely shores."
MRS. WILTON. "Columbia abounds in stupendous natural wonders;
amongst the rest are the natural bridges of Iconongo, not far from
Bogota; the fall of Tequendama, the loftiest cataract; and the Silla
de Caracas, the loftiest cliff yet discovered. The climate is hot
and unhealthy, and the country subject to earthquakes. It is
inhabited by Indians, Spaniards, and Negroes. The Caribs are the
ruling Indian tribe; they are tall, of a reddish copper-color, with
dark intelligent eyes, and a grave expression of features. They
raise the flesh of their legs and thighs in long stripes, and shave
most of the hair from their heads, but do not flatten the forehead,
as is customary with the other tribes along the Orinoco. Columbia is
a country of great natural riches, but suffered to lie for the most
part waste, for the people are naturally indolent; and Captain Hall
remarks, that the Columbian who can eat beef and plantains, and
smoke cigars as he swings in his hammock, is possessed of almost
everything his habits qualify him to enjoy, or which his ambition
prompts him to attain."
MR. BARRAUD. "Along this coast many of the inhabitants subsist as
fishermen; and the Indians of Cartago have a singular method of
catching wild-fowl, which may here be noticed:--They leave
calabashes continually floating on the water that the birds may be
accustomed to the sight of them. When they wish to catch any of
these wild-fowl, they go into the water with their heads covered
each with a calabash, in which they make two holes for seeing
through; they then swim towards the birds, throwing a handful of
maize on the water from time to time, the grains of which scatter
on the surface. The birds approach to feed on the maize, and at the
moment the swimmer seizes them by the feet, pulls them under water,
and wrings their necks before they can make the least movement, or,
by their noise, spread an alarm among the flock. Many families are
supported in this way by disposing of the birds thus caught at a low
price in the markets."
EMMA. "The next bay is Panama, in which are the Gulf of St. Michael
and Gulf of Parita. There are several islands here, but the largest
is Rey Isle. The Gulf of Dolce runs into Costa Rica, and so does the
Gulf of Nicoya: and the little bays about here must not detain us."
MRS. WILTON. "San Jose is the capital of Costa Rica. There are no
fine buildings in this city, and the churches are inferior to many
erected by the Spaniards in the smallest villages. Nevertheless, the
whole place exhibits a business like appearance, much more so than
most cities in this lethargic part of the world. In Costa Rica is a
volcanic mountain, Cartago (now quiet), from the top of which the
traveller can view the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans at one glance. In
a right line over the tops of the mountains, neither is more than
twenty miles distant, and from the great height from which they are
seen they appear to be almost at the traveller's feet. It is the
only point in the world which commands a view of the two Oceans."
GRANDY. "I remember a touching description of a funeral in San
Jose, which will not be out of place here:--
"'While Mr. Stephens (the author of several delightful books) was
standing in a corridor of his friend's house, a man passed with a
child in his arms. He was its father, and with a smile on his face
was carrying it to its grave. He was followed by two boys playing on
violins, and others were laughing around. The child was dressed in
white, with a wreath of roses around its head; and as it lay in its
father's arms, it did not seem dead but sleeping. The grave was not
quite ready, and the boys sat on the heap of dirt thrown out, and
played their violins until it was finished. The father then laid the
child carefully in its final resting-place, with its head to the
rising sun, folded its little hands across its breast, and closed
its fingers around a small wooden crucifix; and it seemed, as they
thought it was, happy at escaping the troubles of an uncertain
world. There were no tears shed; on the contrary, all were cheerful;
and though it appeared heartless, it was not because the father did
not love his child, but because he and all his friends had been
taught to believe, and were firm in the conviction, that, taken away
so young, it was transferred immediately to a better world. The
father sprinkled a handful of dirt over its face; the grave-digger
took his shovel; in a few moments the little grave was filled up,
and, preceded by the boys playing on their violins, they departed.'"
MRS. WILTON. "There is a spirit of thankfulness evinced in that
father's conduct which requires great faith. I fear none of us
would be found to possess as much under such a trial, for the spirit
is, unhappily, at most times under the dominion of the flesh."
GEORGE. "Is not Papagayo Bay close to the Lake of Nicaragua?"
EMMA. "It is only divided from the Ocean by a portion of the
district of Nicaragua. It is a great lake, ninety five miles long,
and thirty broad, and is navigable for ships of the largest class."
DORA. "It is covered with beautiful and populous islands, and two of
them--viz. Isola and Madeira--contain burning mountains. The largest
volcano--Omotepeque--always continues burning, and reminds one of
Mount Etna rising from the water's edge, a smooth unbroken cone to
the height of nearly 1000 feet. The waters of this lake descend by
the river St. John towards the Atlantic; but there is no outlet into
the Pacific Ocean."
GEORGE. "I should like to know why the Pacific is so called?"
[Illustration: THE EARTHQUAKE]
CHARLES. "I can tell you, George. In the year 1520, when Magellan
was on his way to the Spice Islands (the Moluccas, you know), he and
the crew suffered dreadful privations: they were nearly four months
at sea without discovering land. Their stock of provisions was
almost exhausted, the water became putrid, and in consequence the
poor men were attacked with that horrible disease the scurvy. The
only source of consolation, under these troubles, was the
uninterrupted fair weather they enjoyed, and the favorable winds
which wafted them gently onward; so that Magellan was induced to
call the Ocean Pacific: hence the origin of its name."
GEORGE. "Thank you, Charles. How pleasant it is to get all the
information we require, without the trouble of searching in great
dusty books. Now, Emma, will it please you to travel onward?"
EMMA. "What, George! Have you, too, caught the mania, that you are
in such a hurry to get to California?"
GEORGE. "Not to go gold-hunting, indeed; but the Rocky Mountains are
up in the north, and I have a story about them."
EMMA. "Well, to oblige you and ourselves too, we will proceed. The
Gulfs of Fonseca and Conchagua are deep indentations, about the
middle of the coast of Guatemala, to which country Costa Rica
belongs."
MRS. WILTON. "The city of Guatemala was founded in 1776. It is
situated on table-land, 5000 feet above the sea and enjoys a
delicious climate,--literally, a perpetual spring. Beautiful
churches and buildings adorn this city; but the houses are built
only one story high, in order more effectually to resist the action
of earthquakes; for you must know this city has close to it two
burning mountains--Fuego and Agua, which prove the volcanic nature
of the earth. Among all the phenomena of nature few appear to be
attended with such horrible consequences as earthquakes. Thousands,
who in one moment are full of busy life, are, the next, swallowed up
as if they had never existed, or crushed to death by fragments of
falling buildings. In _six minutes_, by the great earthquake of
Lisbon, in 1755, sixty thousand souls were launched into eternity;
and though none in this city have equalled in destructiveness the
great one at Lisbon, yet Guatemala has been several times nearly
destroyed by earthquakes, combined with the eruptions of the
neighboring volcanoes."
MR. BARRAUD. "The inhabitants are mostly of Spanish origin;
consequently, mostly Roman Catholics; and a recent traveller says
that from the moment of his arrival, he was struck with the devout
appearance of the city of Guatemala. At matins and vespers, the
churches were all open, and the people, particularly the women, went
regularly to prayers. Every house had its figure of the Virgin, the
Saviour, or some tutelary saint, and on the door were billets of
paper with prayers. You will be surprised to hear that nearly all
the ladies in Central America smoke. The married ladies smoke
_puros_, or all tobacco; the unmarried ladies smoke _cigars_, or
tobacco wrapped in paper or straw."
DORA. "What an odd indulgence for a lady! In England, ladies never
smoke; although I must say I have often seen poor women with pipes
in their mouths, and thought what a dirty habit it was."
MRS. WILTON. "It is the custom of the country, and were you a
Spanish lady, Dora, I have no doubt you would enjoy a cigar as much
as any of the senoritas. We shall next see the shore of Mexico. What
gulfs must we pass to accomplish this?"
EMMA. "Only the Gulf of Tehuantepec which is worth noticing."
MRS. WILTON. "Mexico has been travelled over already; so we will
pass on to the Gulf of California."
GEORGE. "But is there not a place called New Mexico?"
DORA. "Yes, but not near the coast: however, I will tell you all I
know about it. It is mostly inhabited by Christian Indians, of whom
there are no fewer than thirty villages. They are of various tribes,
but all trained to industrial habits, and are in every respect a
worthy set of people. Their clothing is the skin of wild goats;
their women wear mantles of cotton or wool. Their mode of travelling
is on horseback, and the only access to their huts, which are
square, with open galleries on the top, is by a ladder, which is
removed during the night."
CHARLES. "Robinson Crusoe fashion, I presume?"
DORA. "Exactly. 'Now we are in front of the entrance to San
Francisco Bay. The mountains on the northern side are 3000 feet in
height, and come boldly down to the sea As the view opens through
the splendid strait, three or four miles in width, the island rock
of Alcatraz appears, gleaming white in the distance. At last we are
through the Golden Gate--fit name for such a magnificent portal to
the commerce of the Pacific. The Bay is crowded with the shipping of
the world, and the flags of all nations are fluttering in the
breeze.'[15] Before us lies the grand emporium of the Gold
Region--a city which has well nigh realized the extravagance of the
Arabian Nights Entertainments. As if by the touch of a magic wand,
what was five years ago a little Indian village is now a large and
flourishing city, which is increasing at a prodigious rate. From
every nation and people and clime, emigrants have been pressing to
it in pursuit of the precious metal. The golden sands of California,
with their brilliant glitter, have attracted thousands upon
thousands from every land--and there is now arising on the far
distant shores of the Pacific a great Empire destined to exert a
mighty influence in the affairs of the world. The glowing prospect
which the success of the first adventurers had created, soon drew to
her shores the energy and enterprise of the nations of both Europe
and America. 'Around the curving shore of the Bay and upon the sides
of three hills, which rise steeply from the water, the middle one
receding so as to form a bold amphitheatre, the town is planted and
seems scarcely yet to have taken root, for tents, canvass, plank,
mud and adobe houses are mingled together with the least apparent
attempt at order and durability.' However, the appearance of the
city is fast improving--for churches and schools and public
buildings are springing up on every side, and substantial edifices
are fast taking the place of the more temporary erections. The
sudden rush or so many people to one point, and many of them poorly
provided, combined with the abundance of the gold, caused provision,
rents, and labor to rise to enormous prices. A tent for instance,
called Eldorado, fifteen by twenty feet, occupied mostly by gamblers
brought the enormous yearly rent of $40,000. 'Miners' Bank,' used by
Wright & Co., brokers, about half the size of a fire-engine house,
was held at a rent of $75,000. A gentleman who wished to find a law
office, was shown a cellar in the earth, about twelve feet square
and six feet deep, which he could have at $250 _per month_. One of
the common soldiers at the battle of San Pasquale was reputed to be
among the millionaires of the place, and had an income of fifty
thousand dollars monthly.
[Footnote 15: J. Bayard Taylor's 'Eldorado.']
"The prices paid for labor were in proportion to everything else.
The carman of Mellus Howard & Co., had a salary of $6000 a year, and
many others made from fifteen to twenty dollars daily. Servants were
paid from a hundred to two hundred dollars a month. This state of
things, as might have been expected, did not long continue, for all
things soon find their level, and the rapid importation of produce,
materials and laborers, had soon the effect of lowering the prices
to a fair and ordinary scale.
"California territory belongs to the United States of North America,
and will, doubtless, in a short time, form several distinct states
in that already powerful confederacy."
MR. WILTON. "Now, George, we have arrived at the Gulf of
Georgia;--you will not have very far to travel to the Rocky
Mountains."
CHARLES. "The Gulf of Georgia is very considerable: it divides
Quadra or Vancouver's Island from the continent, and communicates
with the Pacific to the south by Claaset's Straits, and to the north
by Queen Charlotte's Sound. Quadra is a large island, and I think
better known by the name of Nootka Sound, which is at the south end
of the island, and contains an English establishment."
MRS. WILTON. "The natives of Nootka Sound are not an interesting
people, and are greatly inferior to the other tribes inhabiting the
continent. They are short, plain-looking people, not unlike the
Esquimaux. Their ordinary dress consists of a mantle edged with fur
at the top, and fringed at the bottom, which is made out of the bark
of the pine, beaten into fibres. Their food is mostly drawn from the
sea. Large stores of fish are dried and smoked, and the roes,
prepared like caviare, form their winter bread. They drink fish-oil,
and mix it with their food. The women go fishing occasionally, and
are as skilful as the men; but their usual occupation is within
doors, preparing the fabric of which their garments are composed.
Captain Cook, in speaking of their houses, says: 'They are as filthy
as hog-sties,--everything in and about them stinking of fish,
train-oil, and smoke.'"
GEORGE. "I shall have to travel upwards of 600 miles to tell my
story; but, as truth is worth seeking, I do not mind the trouble: so
here it is:--
#Story of Boone and the Bear.#
"A young man named Boone, son of the mighty American hunter, made a
settling amongst the Rocky Mountains, and when his hut was erected
he used to leave it for days, out on hunting expeditions. One night,
after returning from one of these enterprises, he retired to rest on
his solitary pallet. The heat was intense, and, as usual in these
countries during summer, he had left his door wide open. It was
about midnight, when he was awakened by the noise of something
tumbling in the room: he rose in a moment, and hearing a short and
heavy breathing, he asked who it was, for the darkness was such that
he could not see two yards before him. No answer being given, except
a kind of half smothered grunt, he advanced,--and, putting out his
hand, he seized the shaggy coat of a BEAR! Surprise rendered him
motionless; and the animal, giving him a blow on the chest with his
terrible paw, threw him down outside the door. Boone could have
escaped, but, maddened with the pain of his fall, he only thought of
vengeance,--and, seizing his knife and tomahawk, which were
fortunately within his reach, he darted furiously at the beast,
dealing blows at random. Great as was his strength, his tomahawk
could not penetrate through the thick coat of the animal, which,
having encircled the body of his assailant with his paws, was
pressing him in one of those deadly embraces which could only have
been resisted by a giant like Boone (who was six feet nine inches
in height and proportionably strong). Fortunately, the Black bear,
unlike the Grizzly, very seldom uses his claws and teeth in
fighting, contenting himself with smothering his victim. Boone
disentangled his left arm, and with his knife dealt a furious blow
upon the snout of the animal, which, smarting with pain, released
his hold. The snout is the only vulnerable part in an old black
bear. Even at forty yards, the ball of a rifle will flatten against
his skull, and if in any other part of the body it will scarcely
produce any serious effect. Boone, aware of this, and not daring to
risk another hug, darted away from the cabin. The bear, now quite
angry, followed and overtook him near the fence. Fortunately, the
clouds were clearing away, and the moon threw light sufficient to
enable the hunter to strike with a more certain aim: he found also
on the ground one of the rails, made of the blue ash, very heavy,
and ten feet in length; he dropped his knife and tomahawk, and,
seizing the rail, he renewed the fight with caution, for it had now
become a struggle for life or death.
"Had it been a bull or a panther, they would have had their bones
shivered to pieces by the tremendous blows which Boone dealt upon
his adversary with all the strength of despair; but Bruin is by
nature an admirable fencer, and, in spite of his unwieldy shape,
there is not in the world an animal whose motions are more rapid in
a close encounter. Once or twice he was knocked down by the force of
the blows, but generally he would parry them with a wonderful
agility. At last he succeeded in seizing the other end of the rail,
and dragged it towards him with irresistible force. Both man and
beast fell, Boone rolling to the place where he had dropped his
arms, while the bear advanced upon him. The moment was a critical
one; but Boone was accustomed to look at and brave death under every
shape,--and, with a steady hand, he buried the tomahawk in the snout
of his enemy, and, turning round, he rushed to his cabin, believing
he would have time to secure the door. He closed the latch, and
applied his shoulders to it; but it was of no avail: the terrible
brute dashed in head foremost, and tumbled into the room, with Boone
and the fragments of the door. The two foes rose and stared at each
other. Boone had nothing left but his knife; but Bruin was tottering
and unsteady, and Boone felt that the match was more equal. Once
more they closed.
"A few hours after sunrise a friend called at the hut,--and, to his
horror, found Boone apparently lifeless on the floor, and alongside
of him the body of the bear. Boone soon recovered, and found that
the timely blow which had saved him from being crushed to death had
buried the whole blade of his knife through the left eye, in the
very brain of the huge animal."
CHARLES. "That is a spirited story, and very well told, George. I
should not like to have been Mr. Boone in such a situation, although
he was a 'mighty hunter;' a bear is an ugly animal to embrace."
DORA. "Yes; and, lest we should meet with any, we will leave the
Rocky Mountains and go on to the north of Quadra, where are situated
King George's Archipelago and the Admiralty Isles. The inhabitants
of the former bear some resemblance to the Esquimaux. The women wear
an extraordinary kind of ornament, which gives them the appearance
of having two mouths: it consists of a small piece of wood, which
they force into the flesh below the under lip."
MR. BARRAUD. "Those are Norfolk Sound people; but they are a kindly
race, notwithstanding their outrageous customs; and, to show you how
readily they are affected for good or evil, I will relate a
circumstance which happened when Captain Cleveland was trading with
them. A canoe containing eleven persons went alongside his vessel,
and raised the screens at the port-holes, to look in on the deck.
Before the captain had time to speak to them, the cook (either by
accident or design) threw a ladleful of hot water over them, which
causing an involuntary and sudden motion of their bodies to the
other side of the boat, immediately upset, and all were immersed in
the water. The confusion was then very great,--as those who at the
time were under the stern, engaged in traffic, fearing some
treachery, made haste to paddle away, without regarding the distress
of their comrades. All of these, however, appeared to be capable of
taking care of themselves; excepting an infant of about a year old,
whose struggles being observed by one of the mates, he jumped
overboard and saved it. The weather was very raw and chilly: the
captain had the child dried and warmed by the fire, then wrapped it
in a blanket, gave it a piece of sugar, and returned it to its
parents, who were exceedingly pleased and grateful; and, as soon as
all had recovered from the effects of their immersion, their
business (which was trading for skins of various kinds) was
conducted throughout the day to the mutual satisfaction of all
parties."
MR. WILTON. "As these islands are near the coast of Columbia, I wish
to inform you that here there is an excellent harbor and a navy
yard, to which ships of the largest tonnage may ascend. The yard
covers a space of thirty-seven acres, and in it are made nearly all
the anchors, cables, and blocks required for the service of the
United States' Navy, which, although inconsiderable in point of
numerical strength, is perhaps the best organized and most effective
in the world. The unexpected success of their frigates in contests
with British vessels of the same class has established the
reputation of the American navy for skill and prowess in the eyes of
Europe; and the United States, with comparatively few ships, already
rank high as a naval power."