The World of Waters - Mrs. David Osborne
MRS. WILTON. "How encouraging for the missionaries to find that the
seed had been sown on good ground, and was brought to bear the fruit
of righteousness through the blessing of the Almighty God!"
DORA. "Algoa Bay is on the coast of that portion of Cape Colony,
known by the name of Albany. It was discovered by Bartholomew Dias.
His sailors becoming discontented with their long voyage, hesitated
to proceed any further, and he, to satisfy their scruples, landed
with the chief officers and several seamen, on an island in this
bay, hoping by the touching solemnities of religion to soften a
decision so discouraging to his adventurous hopes. He caused the
sacrament to be administered at the foot of a cross which he then
planted with his own hands, and which has given the name of Santa
Cruz to the island. There, upon this rugged spot, at present only
visited by a few fishermen, and where European foot had never before
trodden, were the symbols of Christianity first displayed in the
Southern Ocean."
MRS. WILTON. "Graham's Town is the emporium of these eastern
frontier districts of Cape Colony, and its main streets present a
scene of incessant commercial activity; while almost every article
whether of utility or of ornament, may be as readily obtained as in
most of the provincial towns of the mother country. There are
several good inns, where visitors may command and receive every
reasonable comfort and attention. Religious services are well
attended, and numerous schools established, in which the children
are making encouraging progress. The flowers and fruits of most
parts of Europe flourish here, and the climate is unexceptionable.
There are a great many missionaries in Graham's Town; and on the
whole it may be safely averred, that the general intelligence of the
inhabitants is not a whit inferior to that of the middle and lower
classes of any country in the United Kingdom."
EMMA. "Camtoos or St. Francis Bay, is a few miles further along the
coast, and Plestenburg, Mossel, Vaccas, and St. Sebastian's Bay,
are among those in the south of Cape Colony.
"Cow Bay, or Bahia das Vaccas, is in latitude 34 deg. south, longitude
22 deg. east, and is so called on account of the vast number of sea-cows
which used to frequent it in former times. The chief value of these
animals is in their ivory tusks, which, being harder than those of
the elephant, and not so liable to turn yellow, are much more
esteemed by dentists. Their hides are also valuable for harness
leathers; and the skins of the young ones make handsome coverings
for trunks.
"St. Sebastian's Bay is at the mouth of Breede River, and is said to
possess good holding ground. It is seldom visited, except by vessels
intending to enter the river; and, as that is not our intention, we
will pass it, and go on until we come to False Bay, near the Cape of
Good Hope."
MR. WILTON. "False Bay is rather a _sound_ than a _bay_. It contains
within its capacious bosom several fine and safe inlets, among which
Simon's Bay is the most important, for there is the naval arsenal
and _depot_: but the proximity of the metropolis, and its more
convenient bay, distant only twenty-one miles, diverts the whole of
the trade from this excellent and perfectly land-locked harbor."
MRS. WILTON. "The Cape of Good Hope is a crown colony. Its affairs
are administered by a governor and a lieutenant-governor. The first
has his residence at Cape Town; the second, at Graham's Town. With
much truth we may describe the inhabitants of Cape Colony at large,
as a serious and religious people. In the towns and villages the
strictest attention is paid to a close and regular attendance on
public worship; and in the country districts, where churches are
'few and far between,' and the opportunities difficult, the private
altar is every morning and evening duly served by the head of each
family. The Lord's Supper is administered four times a year at every
town and village, when the greater part of the population make a
point of resorting thither with all the members of their families,
though the distance to be traversed for the purpose often exceeds
200 miles."
MR. BARRAUD. "Cape Town is situated on the shores of Table Bay,
which is the chief harbor of the Cape of Good Hope, and is
exceedingly commodious; and close by rises a mountain of the same
name, to the height of 3582 feet, by a declivity so gradual, that it
has been ascended on horseback. I do not wish to detract from the
general goodness of the inhabitants of Cape Town, but I must say
they are an eager money-getting race. On the arrival of a ship from
England an auction is generally held, and the various articles
exhibited, damaged and sound, under the shade of some tree in the
centre of the town; where an Englishman would be amused to see one
of the first merchants shuffling round with a handful of tea, and
telling the audience that it is just upon the rise, and recommending
that he be allowed to send home a pound or two."
MR. STANLEY. "When I was there a few months since, I was much
struck with the appearance of the streets. They are broad and
handsome; but a wide _ditch_, which the townsfolk dignify with the
name of a canal, runs through the centre. There is generally but
little water in this ditch, but millions of restless mosquitoes,
which populate the whole town, and (I speak from experience) are a
perfect torture. The houses being mostly plastered, have a
stone-like and cleanly appearance, with their green Venetian blinds,
and plantations of acacias and other Eastern trees, waving
gracefully in front of them. The climate is salubrious, and
provisions of all kinds abundant and cheap. I was within a very few
miles of Constantia, so famous for its wines. Unfortunately I had no
time to visit it, but a description given by a gentleman,[19] who
was there much about the same time, will, perhaps, answer our
purpose better than my account. He says:--'The approach to
Constantia is as romantic and beautiful as it is possible to
conceive, from the mixture of the English shrubs and flowers with
those of Southern Africa. Here we passed by a long hedge of monthly
roses, all in full flower. Over our heads waved the fine foliage of
the banana and plantain. There was a long vineyard loaded with
grapes, and the African negroes employed therein. Now we pass an
avenue of English oaks; and this brings us to a fine large octagonal
building in the Dutch style, which is the residence of the
proprietor of Lower Constantia.' Mr. Leigh next describes the
interior of the wine vaults as 'a long building, 100 yards or more;
on either side enormous butts, with polished oak ribs, kept in the
cleanest style.' As I cannot offer you a glass of wine from these
celebrated butts, I will not detain the party any longer."
[Footnote 19: Mr. Leigh, surgeon of the Australian Company's ship
"South Australia."]
CHARLES. "The finest bay in the world falls to my share. It is
Saldana Bay, which is capable of containing at safe anchorage the
whole British fleet, during all seasons of the year."
MR. WILTON. "But dame Nature, always capricious in her favors, has
denied fertility to the adjacent soil; and the supply of water is
limited, in consequence of which it is seldom resorted to, except by
foreign whalers fishing on the coast. Almost the same may be said of
St. Helena Bay, and for the same reasons. How many more bays in Cape
Colony?"
EMMA. "Only one, papa, and that is Donkin's Bay. We must then sail
along the Hottentot coast until we arrive at Walwisch Bay."
GEORGE. "Papa, are not the Boschmen dwelling somewhere near here?"
MR. WILTON. "Why, they are a wandering people, and can scarcely be
said to hold any definite territory of their own; but they are to be
found north of Cape Colony, and are thus designated from the place
of their residence, which is in the bushes or woods. They are a
dirty, wild, savage people, and make a boast of the most inhuman
actions, to get glory from their companions. They neither cultivate
the ground, nor tend cattle, but are dependent on the chase for
animal food."
MR. STANLEY. "Many superstitions and traditions are entertained by
these rude people; among them there is one related by Sir J.E.
Alexander as follows:--
#A Transformation.#
"It is believed in the land that some of the Bosch people can change
themselves into wolves and lions when they like. Once on a time, a
certain Namaqua was travelling in company with a Bosch woman
carrying a child on her back. They had proceeded some distance on
the journey, when a troop of wild horses appeared; and the man said
to the woman, 'I am hungry, and I know you can turn yourself into a
lion: do so now, and catch us a wild horse, that we may eat.'
"The woman answered, 'You'll be afraid.'
"'No, no,' said the man; 'I am afraid of dying of hunger, but I am
not afraid of you.'
"Whilst he was yet speaking, hair began to appear at the back of the
woman's neck, her nails began to assume the appearance of claws, and
her features altered. She set down the child.
"The man, alarmed at the change, climbed a tree close by. The woman
glared at him fearfully, and, going to one side, she threw off her
skin petticoat, when a perfect lion rushed out into the plain. It
bounded and crept among the bushes, towards the wild horses; and
springing on one of them, it fell, and the lion lapped its blood.
The lion then came back to where the child was crying, and the man
called from the tree, 'Enough, enough! do not hurt me! Put off your
lion's shape. I will never ask to see you thus again.'
"The lion looked at him and growled. 'I will remain here till I
die,' said the man, 'if you do not become a woman again.'
"The mane and tail then began to disappear; the lion went towards
the bush where the skin petticoat lay; it was slipped on, and the
woman, again in her proper shape, took up the child. The man
descended, partook of the horse's flesh, but never again asked the
woman to catch game for him."
GEORGE. "This is very droll: but I think they must be very ignorant
people to believe such absurdities."
EMMA. "I have Walwisch Bay. There is a broad sandy beach around it,
and sand-hills heaped up in various forms inland, and the general
aspect of things here is very wild and Arabian-like. The climate is
healthy and good. It is hot in the beginning of the year; but from
May until August it is cool and pleasant."
MRS. WILTON. "About three miles from Walwisch Bay, or Bay of Whales,
is a Hottentot village, containing nearly 300 inhabitants, who are a
friendly, harmless people, but very indolent and filthy. Both sexes
dress alike, in the skins of animals sewed together with the sinews
of the same animals, in the form of a blanket, which they throw over
their shoulders, with the hair-side next to their bodies. The women
are only distinguished by the profusion of their ornaments. These
consist of shells, bones, and minerals of different kinds, and are
worn about the neck and wrists. They are all expert hunters and
fishers. They devour their fish raw, and the small ones without even
divesting them of their entrails; what they cannot eat they pickle
with salt procured at the head of the bay."
GEORGE. "What nasty disgusting people, to eat raw fish!"
MR. WILTON. "In appeasing the cravings of hunger they are, in fact,
horribly disgusting, being actually more fond of the entrails of
cattle and sheep than of any other part; and when an animal is
killed, these people positively devour its entrails raw, even before
they are cold, while they will refuse to partake of the carcass,
cooked or otherwise."
DORA. "Now we pass on to Great and Little Fish Bays, which are on
the coast of that wretched slave country, Benguela."
GRANDY. "Ah! poor Africa is cursed with evils, unknown to the rest
of the human race in any section of the globe--reptiles of the most
deadly venom, beasts of unparalleled ferocity, deserts of sand, and
moral deserts a thousand times more appalling. But her greatest
curse of all is the white man's cupidity, tearing asunder the
tenderest ties of human nature, and plunging villages and families
into mourning and despair. The hyena, the tiger, the crocodile, are
creatures existing by the will of God; the man-stealer is a
sin-created monster! The depredations of the former are the effects
of hunger; those of the latter avarice--the meanest passion that can
enter the human breast."
MR. WILTON. "It is now sixty years since Great Britain commenced
offensive warfare against the African slave-trade; but grieved am I
to say that little good has resulted from it; for the slave-trade is
still carried on as extensively as ever. Our ships, which are
continually on the look-out to recapture the slave-vessels, scarcely
ever take more than fifteen in the course of twelve months; and the
cost of maintaining this force to our country is 600,000_l_.
annually. This money, in my humble opinion, might be more
advantageously laid out--mean in reference to this degraded and
demoralized quarter of the world, Africa. It might be expended in
planting industry, knowledge, and security; in fact, in civilizing
the wretched people; and surely that would more effectually check
the slave-trade than the occasional capture of one or two cargoes.
For the African slave-trade is not the _cause_, but the _effect_, of
African ignorance, as any wretched creature there will seize and
sell his more wretched neighbor for the paltry sum of a dollar."
MRS. WILTON. "This civilization will take years to effect; for
deep-rooted evils cannot be destroyed in a day, among an ignorant
and prejudiced people."
EMMA. "We are at Fish Bay. Dora, will _you_ continue."
DORA. "Yes: Fish Bay is one of the finest places in the world for
fishing with a 'seine,' by which thousands of barrels of excellent
fish are caught in the course of the year."
GEORGE. "What sort of a town is Benguela?"
DORA. "Small: it consists of not more than 200 houses, mostly one
story high. Everything good to eat can be procured here; but there
is no good water, except in the rainy season."
MR. STANLEY. "Then we had better make all sail, and get away, for it
would be sad work to be becalmed with--
'Water, water everywhere, and not a drop to drink.'
While we are in these latitudes, we may as well visit the two
islands, which look so tempting after a long voyage on the great
Atlantic. Come boys: St. Helena for Charles--Ascension for George."
CHARLES. "St. Helena was discovered by those pioneers of navigation,
the Portuguese, on Saint Helen's day, the 21st of May, 1501. It is
1200 miles from the continent, in latitude 5 deg. south, longitude 15 deg.
west. It is a beautiful island, inhabited by about 300 English
families, whose ancestors took possession of it in 1600. The
Portuguese stocked it well with cattle and fruit, and the English
now benefit by their forethought. 'St. Helena,' says a clever
writer,[20] 'is the dark monument of the most conspicuous man that
has arisen within the period of certain history.' Of course that
means Napoleon Bonaparte. I have done."
[Footnote 20: Captain Morrell]
GEORGE. "Ascension Isle lies between Africa and Brazil: it was
discovered in 1508. It is about 39 miles in circumference, and of
nearly a circular form. It has water only in one spot, called the
Green Mountain, from the rich verdure with which it is covered. The
natural productions are not numerous. Guinea-fowl have been
introduced, and are now quite wild. Ten head of cattle were likewise
imported, which have also taken to the woods, and are hunted by the
garrison as required. This island was at one period overrun with
enormous rats, to destroy which somebody with good intent imported a
cargo of cats, which are now become as great a plague as their
predecessors, keeping the sportsmen constantly on the alert to
destroy them."
MR. STANLEY. "Well done, George! I am glad to hear you not only
remember the information, but try to retain the phraseology of the
geographers. That is the right method to improve your memory; do not
halt at the trouble it cost you, for you will be abundantly repaid
in the end."
DORA. "We have only one more bay on this side of the equator to
notice. Among the numerous bays on the western coast of Africa,
first in rank stands Kabenda Bay, near Congo. It is a very fine
harbor, and is so agreeable a situation that it is denominated the
'Paradise of the Coast.' The sea is always smooth, and debarkation
easy. The town of Kabenda stands amidst delightful scenery, composed
of lofty cliffs, verdant hills, and deep luxuriant vales; it is
resorted to principally by slavers, who trade thither for slaves,
ivory, and wood. The poor inhabitants, strange to say,
notwithstanding their oppression, have a great respect for white
men, and believe that they know everything, or, in their dialect,
'_sabe ebery ting_.'"
MR. BARRAUD. "There is a fact worthy the attention of travellers
connected with the kingdom of Loango, which you will perceive lies
immediately north of Congo. It contains amongst its inhabitants
numbers of black Jews scattered throughout the country. They are
despised by the negroes, who do not even deign to eat with them.
They are occupied in trade, and keep the sabbath so strictly that
they do not even converse on that day; they have a separate
burying-ground, very far from any habitation. The tombs are
constructed with masonry, and ornamented with Hebrew inscriptions,
the singularity of which excites the laughter of the negroes, who
discern in these hieroglyphics only serpents, lizards, and other
reptiles."
MRS. WILTON. "Crossing the line is no longer a novelty to such
experienced voyagers as we are, and I think Dora may carry us on to
our next station without further remark."
DORA. "The Gulf of Guinea."
MR. WILTON. "Plenty of sea-room _there_, Dora; but I hope we are to
keep along the coast, for with the exception of Fernando Po and St.
Thomas's, I know of no place where I should feel disposed to go
ashore."
MRS. WILTON. "We are on a coasting expedition, although, for the
_furtherance of science_, we occasionally sail out of the direct
track; and as, in this instance, the mention of your inclination to
visit these two islands implies some knowledge of their situation,
we expect you will furnish the meeting with the requisite
information."
MR. WILTON. "Your mamma is very sharp upon me, George. Take warning
by my case, and do not interfere with the pilot."
GEORGE. "Ha, capital! Now, papa, Ferdinand Po!"
MR. WILTON. "Our sojourn there will be very brief; not because the
island is deficient in fertility, but simply because the society of
the natives would be intolerable to civilized noses. They are the
filthiest people in the whole world. Words cannot convey an idea of
their disgusting nature. They have long hair matted together with
red clay and palm oil. This composition has a most outrageous smell,
and with it they smear their faces and bodies. They are, generally
speaking, a stout, athletic, well made race of people, and
particularly harmless in their dispositions, though from their
appearance you would not imagine that to be the case, as each
individual is always armed with a spear about eight feet in length,
made of hard wood, and barbed at each end; which, added to their
fierce color and smell, would daunt the courage of a more
enlightened savage.
"St. Thomas's should have been first, as it is nearer the equator.
It is one of the four Guinea Islands; Prince's Island and Anaboa
will make up the number. I know very little of it, except that it
helps to furnish the Portuguese shipping with provisions and fresh
water. Now I have satisfied the demands of the meeting, and will
promise not to interfere again."
CHARLES. "I shall be rejoiced at your interference, sir, if it
always have the effect of bringing out your stores; and, now I am
pilot for a short time, I beg to state that I shall not require any
apology, should you interrupt _me_ in the discharge of my duty, but
be thankful for the same.
"Fernando Po. It is in the Bight of Biafra, the coast of which bight
is thus described by Dr. Bayle:--'This coast is forbidding in its
aspect, dangerous to approach, repulsive when examined, and
disgusting when known.' There: that is not a very inviting account:
had we not better sail on? Who cries forward?"
"Forward all," exclaimed Mr. Stanley; and Charles was about to
proceed, when George interrupted him to inquire if the chimpanzee
were not a native of these parts.
MR. STANLEY. "Yes, my boy; it is found not very far from the
equator."
GEORGE. "Is it not the largest ape in Guinea?"
MR. STANLEY. "Right again. I will tell you all I know about the
gentleman. Its height is four feet, and there is no appearance of a
tail. Monsieur de Grandpie gives an account of one which he had the
opportunity of observing during a voyage. This animal had learned to
heat the oven, and was particularly careful that no coals should
escape to set fire to the vessel. It perfectly understood when the
oven was sufficiently heated, and never failed to apprise the baker
of the circumstance; while he in his turn so entirely confided in
it, that he hastened with his bread as soon as the animal went to
fetch him, and was never once led into an error. When they turned
the capstan, it endeavored to assist with all its power, like a
sailor. When the sails were loosened, it mounted the yards of its
own accord. It belaced the shrouds as well as any sailor; and
observing how the end of the rope was fastened to prevent its
hanging, it did the same to the rope of which it had possession. It
was as clever as many of the men, and much more nimble, and was
treated by the sailors as one of their own crew. This animal died on
the passage, owing to the brutal treatment of the second mate. It
bore his cruel usage with the greatest resignation, raising its
hands in a suppliant manner to implore a remission of the stripes he
inflicted. From that moment it refused to eat, and died of hunger
and suffering on the fifth day, almost as much regretted as one of
the crew would have been. The chimpanzee generally walks upright,
supported by the branch of a tree, after the manner of a
walking-stick. The negroes dread it, and with much reason; for it is
powerful, and uses its power with great harshness whenever they
meet. I believe you may see a chimpanzee in the Zoological Gardens
in the Regent's Park. We will go some day on speculation, George.
Now, Charles, 'forward!'"
CHARLES. "The Bight of Benin washes the coast of Dahomey and other
countries, known also by the name of the Slave Coast. Dahomey,
including the subjugated districts, extends at least 150 miles into
the interior. The principal town is Abomey, lying about three
degrees east longitude."
MRS. WILTON. "Whidah on this coast must be noticed, as it is so
connected with Dahomey. It was once an independent kingdom; but in
the year 1727 was conquered by Guadja Irudo, King of Dahomey. Its
capital contains about 20,000 inhabitants. In Whidah the religion is
pagan; but for some unaccountable reason they worship their divinity
under the form of a particular species of snake, called _daboa_,
which is not sufficiently large to be terrible to man, and is
otherwise tamable and inoffensive. These _daboas_ are taken care of
in the most pious manner, and well fed on rats, mice, or birds in
their _fetish_ houses or temples, where the people assemble to pay
their adoration, and where those also who are sick or lame apply for
assistance."
GRANDY. "Their creed is an odd mixture. They believe in two beings,
equal in power; the one doing good, the other evil; and they pray to
the demon to allow them to remain unmolested by the magicians, who
are constantly endeavoring to injure them."
MR. STANLEY. "In Dahomey the tiger is an object of religious regard;
but the people wisely deem it the safest mode of worship to perform
their acts of devotion to his skin only, and it is stuffed for that
purpose. The government of this country is entirely despotic. The
sovereign may cut off as many heads as he likes, and dispose of his
subjects' property as he thinks fit, without being accountable to
any earthly tribunal. He has from three to four thousand wives, a
proportion of whom, trained to arms under female officers,
constitute his body-guard."
CHARLES. "What a royal regiment! all queens; why the sight of them
would strike terror into an English army. I should throw down my
weapons directly."
MR. STANLEY. "But their enemies are not so gallant, and hesitate not
to fight this female army, who very often gain the advantage by
being so well disciplined."
MR. BARRAUD. "In Dahomey, at a particular period of the year, a
grand annual festival is held; and, amidst feastings and rejoicings,
deeds are done from which the civilized mind recoils with horror.
Numbers of human victims are sacrificed in solemn form.
"They are generally prisoners of war set aside for the purpose; but
as seventy is the required number, should there not be so many
prisoners, the king makes it up from his own subjects. Their bodies
are thrown to wild beasts, while their heads are used to decorate
the walls of the royal palace! Still more barbarous is the notion of
enjoying the gratification of trampling on the heads of their
enemies; and, in order to do this, the King of Dahomey has the
passage leading to his bedchamber paved with the skulls of his
enemies!"