The Book of Household Management - Mrs. Isabella Beeton
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_Mode_.--Boil the beef, or veal, and the mutton, gently in water that
will cover them, till the gravy is very strong, and the meat very
tender; then strain off the gravy, and set it on the fire with the
specified quantities of vermicelli, mace, and cloves, to 2 quarts. Let
it boil till it has the flavour of the spices. Have ready the almonds,
blanched and pounded very fine; the yolks of the eggs boiled hard;
mixing the almonds, whilst pounding, with a little of the soup, lest the
latter should grow oily. Pound them till they are a mere pulp, and keep
adding to them, by degrees, a little soup until they are thoroughly
mixed together. Let the soup be cool when mixing, and do it perfectly
smooth. Strain it through a sieve, set it on the fire, stir frequently,
and serve hot. Just before taking it up, add the cream.
_Time_.--3 hours. _Average cost_ per quart, 2s. 3d.
_Seasonable_ all the year.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
[Illustration: ALMOND & BLOSSOM.]
THE ALMOND-TREE.--This tree is indigenous to the northern parts
of Asia and Africa, but it is now cultivated in Europe,
especially in the south of France, Italy, and Spain. It flowers
in spring, and produces its fruit in August. Although there are
two kinds of almonds, the _sweet_ and the _bitter,_ they are
considered as only varieties of the same species. The best sweet
almonds brought to England, are called the Syrian or Jordan, and
come from Malaga; the inferior qualities are brought from
Valentia and Italy. _Bitter_ almonds come principally from
Magadore. Anciently, the almond was much esteemed by the nations
of the East. Jacob included it among the presents which he
designed for Joseph. The Greeks called it the Greek or Thasian
nut, and the Romans believed that by eating half a dozen of
them, they were secured against drunkenness, however deeply they
might imbibe. Almonds, however, are considered as very
indigestible. The _bitter_ contain, too, principles which
produce two violent poisons,--prussic acid and a kind of
volatile oil. It is consequently dangerous to eat them in large
quantities. Almonds pounded together with a little sugar and
water, however, produce a milk similar to that which is yielded
by animals. Their oil is used for making fine soap, and their
cake as a cosmetic.
APPLE SOUP.
111. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of good boiling apples, 3/4 teaspoonful of
white pepper, 6 cloves, cayenne or ginger to taste, 3 quarts of medium
stock.
_Mode_.--Peel and quarter the apples, taking out their cores; put them
into the stock, stew them gently till tender. Rub the whole through a
strainer, add the seasoning, give it one boil up, and serve.
_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_ per quart, 1s.
_Seasonable_ from September to December.
_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.
[Illustration: APPLE AND BLOSSOM.]
THE APPLE.--This useful fruit is mentioned in Holy Writ; and
Homer describes it as valuable in his time. It was brought from
the East by the Romans, who held it in the highest estimation.
Indeed, some of the citizens of the "Eternal city" distinguished
certain favourite apples by their names. Thus the Manlians were
called after Manlius, the Claudians after Claudius, and the
Appians after Appius. Others were designated after the country
whence they were brought; as the Sidonians, the Epirotes, and
the Greeks. The best varieties are natives of Asia, and have, by
grafting them upon others, been introduced into Europe. The
crab, found in our hedges, is the only variety indigenous to
Britain; therefore, for the introduction of other kinds we are,
no doubt, indebted to the Romans. In the time of the Saxon
heptarchy, both Devon and Somerset were distinguished as _the
apple country_; and there are still existing in Herefordshire
some trees said to have been planted in the time of William the
Conqueror. From that time to this, the varieties of this
precious fruit have gone on increasing, and are now said to
number upwards of 1,500. It is peculiar to the temperate zone,
being found neither in Lapland, nor within the tropics. The best
baking apples for early use are the Colvilles; the best for
autumn are the rennets and pearmains; and the best for winter
and spring are russets. The best table, or eating apples, are
the Margarets for early use; the Kentish codlin and summer
pearmain for summer; and for autumn, winter, or spring, the
Dowton, golden and other pippins, as the ribstone, with small
russets. As a food, the apple cannot be considered to rank high,
as more than the half of it consists of water, and the rest of
its properties are not the most nourishing. It is, however, a
useful adjunct to other kinds of food, and, when cooked, is
esteemed as slightly laxative.
ARTICHOKE (JERUSALEM) SOUP.
(_A White Soup_.)
112. INGREDIENTS.--3 slices of lean bacon or ham, 1/2 a head of celery,
1 turnip, 1 onion, 3 oz. of butter, 4 lbs. of artichokes, 1 pint of
boiling milk, or 1/2 pint of boiling cream, salt and cayenne to taste, 2
lumps of sugar, 2-1/2 quarts of white stock.
_Mode_.--Put the bacon and vegetables, which should be cut into thin
slices, into the stewpan with the butter. Braise these for 1/4 of an
hour, keeping them well stirred. Wash and pare the artichokes, and after
cutting them into thin slices, add them, with a pint of stock, to the
other ingredients. When these have gently stewed down to a smooth pulp,
put in the remainder of the stock. Stir it well, adding the seasoning,
and when it has simmered for five minutes, pass it through a strainer.
Now pour it back into the stewpan, let it again simmer five minutes,
taking care to skim it well, and stir it to the boiling milk or cream.
Serve with small sippets of bread fried in butter.
_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_ per quart, 1s. 2d.
_Seasonable_ from June to October.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
ASPARAGUS SOUP.
I.
113. INGREDIENTS.--5 lbs. of lean beef, 3 slices of bacon, 1/2 pint of
pale ale, a few leaves of white beet, spinach, 1 cabbage lettuce, a
little mint, sorrel, and marjoram, a pint of asparagus-tops cut small,
the crust of 1 French roll, seasoning to taste, 2 quarts of water.
_Mode_.--Put the beef, cut in pieces and rolled in flour, into a
stewpan, with the bacon at the bottom; cover it close, and set it on a
slow fire, stirring it now and then till the gravy is drawn. Put in the
water and ale, and season to taste with pepper and salt, and let it stew
gently for 2 hours; then strain the liquor, and take off the fat, and
add the white beet, spinach, cabbage lettuce, and mint, sorrel, and
sweet marjoram, pounded. Let these boil up in the liquor, then put in
the asparagus-tops cut small, and allow them to boil till all is tender.
Serve hot, with the French roll in the dish.
_Time_.--Altogether 3 hours. _Average cost_ per quart, 1s. 9d.
_Seasonable_ from May to August.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
II.
114. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of split peas, a teacupful of gravy, 4
young onions, 1 lettuce cut small, 1/2 a head of celery, 1/2 a pint of
asparagus cut small, 1/2 a pint of cream, 3 quarts of water: colour the
soup with spinach juice.
_Mode_.--Boil the peas, and rub them through a sieve; add the gravy, and
then stew by themselves the celery, onions, lettuce, and asparagus, with
the water. After this, stew altogether, and add the colouring and cream,
and serve.
_Time_.--Peas 2-1/2 hours, vegetables 1 hour; altogether 4 hours.
_Average cost_ per quart, 1s.
[Illustration: ASPARAGUS.]
ASPARAGUS.--The ancients called all the sprouts of young
vegetables asparagus, whence the name, which is now limited to a
particular species, embracing artichoke, alisander, asparagus,
cardoon, rampion, and sea-kale. They are originally mostly wild
seacoast plants; and, in this state, asparagus may still be
found on the northern as well as southern shores of Britain. It
is often vulgarly called, in London, _sparrowgrass_; and, in
it's cultivated form, hardly bears any resemblance to the
original plant. Immense quantities of it are raised for the
London market, at Mortlake and Deptford; but it belongs rather
to the classes of luxurious than necessary food. It is light and
easily digested, but is not very nutritious.
BAKED SOUP.
115. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of any kind of meat, any trimmings or odd
pieces; 2 onions, 2 carrots, 2 oz. of rice, 1 pint of split peas, pepper
and salt to taste, 4 quarts of water.
_Mode_.--Cut the meat and vegetables in slices, add to them the rice and
peas, season with pepper and salt. Put the whole in a jar, fill up with
the water, cover very closely, and bake for 4 hours.
_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, 2-1/2d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Sufficient_ for 10 or 12 persons.
_Note_.--This will be found a very cheap and wholesome soup, and will be
convenient in those cases where baking is more easily performed than
boiling.
BARLEY SOUP.
116. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of shin of beef, 1/4 lb. of pearl barley, a
large bunch of parsley, 4 onions, 6 potatoes, salt and pepper, 4 quarts
of water.
_Mode_.--Put in all the ingredients, and simmer gently for 3 hours.
_Time_.--3 hours. _Average cost_, 2-1/2d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable for winter.
[Illustration: BARLEY.]
BARLEY.--This, in the order of cereal grasses, is, in Britain,
the next plant to wheat in point of value, and exhibits several
species and varieties. From what country it comes originally, is
not known, but it was cultivated in the earliest ages of
antiquity, as the Egyptians were afflicted with the loss of it
in the ear, in the time of Moses. It was a favourite grain with
the Athenians, but it was esteemed as an ignominious food by the
Romans. Notwithstanding this, however, it was much used by them,
as it was in former times by the English, and still is, in the
Border counties, in Cornwall, and also in Wales. In other parts
of England, it is used mostly for malting purposes. It is less
nutritive than wheat; and in 100 parts, has of starch 79, gluten
6, saccharine matter 7, husk 8. It is, however, a lighter and
less stimulating food than wheat, which renders a decoction of
it well adapted for invalids whose digestion is weak.
BREAD SOUP.
(_Economical_.)
117. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of bread crusts, 2 oz. butter, 1 quart of
common stock.
_Mode_.--Boil the bread crusts in the stock with the butter; beat the
whole with a spoon, and keep it boiling till the bread and stock are
well mixed. Season with a little salt.
_Time_.--Half an hour. _Average cost_ per quart, 4d.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.
_Note_.--This is a cheap recipe, and will be found useful where extreme
economy is an object.
[Illustration: QUERN, or GRINDING-MILL.]
BREAD.--The origin of bread is involved in the obscurity of
distant ages. The Greeks attributed its invention to Pan; but
before they, themselves, had an existence, it was, no doubt, in
use among the primitive nations of mankind. The Chaldeans and
the Egyptians were acquainted with it, and Sarah, the companion
of Abraham, mixed flour and water together, kneaded it, and
covered it with ashes on the hearth. The Scriptures inform us
that leavened bread was known to the Israelites, but it is not
known when the art of fermenting it was discovered. It is said
that the Romans learnt it during their wars with Perseus, king
of Macedon, and that it was introduced to the "imperial city"
about 200 years before the birth of Christ. With them it no
doubt found its way into Britain; but after their departure from
the island, it probably ceased to be used. We know that King
Alfred allowed the unfermented cakes to burn in the neatherd's
cottage; and that, even in the sixteenth century, unfermented
cakes, kneaded by the women, were the only kind of bread known
to the inhabitants of Norway and Sweden. The Italians of this
day consume the greater portion of their flour in the form of
_polenta_, or soft pudding, vermicelli, and macaroni; and, in
the remoter districts of Scotland, much unfermented bread is
still used. We give a cut of the _quern_ grinding-mill, which,
towards the end of the last century, was in use in that country,
and which is thus described by Dr. Johnson in his "Journey to
the Hebrides:"--"It consists of two stones about a foot and half
in diameter; the lower is a little convex, to which the
concavity of the upper must be fitted. In the middle of the
upper stone is a round hole, and on one side is a long handle.
The grinder sheds the corn gradually into the hole with one
hand, and works the handle round with the other. The corn slides
down the convexity of the lower stone, and by the motion of the
upper, is ground in its passage." Such a primitive piece of
machinery, it may safely be said, has entirely disappeared from
this country.--In other parts of this work, we shall have
opportunities of speaking of bread and bread-making, which, from
its great and general use in the nourishment of mankind, has
emphatically been called the "staff of life." The necessity,
therefore, of having it both pure and good is of the first
importance.
CABBAGE SOUP.
118. INGREDIENTS.--1 large cabbage, 3 carrots, 2 onions, 4 or 5 slices
of lean bacon, salt and pepper to taste, 2 quarts of medium stock No.
105.
_Mode_.--Scald the cabbage, exit it up and drain it. Line the stewpan
with the bacon, put in the cabbage, carrots, and onions; moisten with
skimmings from the stock, and simmer very gently, till the cabbage is
tender; add the stock, stew softly for half an hour, and carefully skim
off every particle of fat. Season and serve.
_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. per quart.
_Seasonable_ in winter.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
[Illustration: CABBAGE SEEDING.]
THE CABBAGE.--It is remarkable, that although there is no
country in the world now more plentifully supplied with fruits
and vegetables than Great Britain, yet the greater number of
these had no existence in it before the time of Henry VIII.
Anderson, writing under the date of 1548, says, "The English
cultivated scarcely any vegetables before the last two
centuries. At the commencement of the reign, of Henry VIII.
neither salad, nor carrots, nor cabbages, nor radishes, nor any
other comestibles of a like nature, were grown in any part of
the kingdom; they came from Holland and Flanders." The original
of all the cabbage tribe is the wild plant _sea-colewort_, which
is to be found _wasting_ whatever sweetness it may have on the
desert air, on many of the cliffs of the south coast of England.
In this state, it scarcely weighs more than half an ounce, yet,
in a cultivated state, to what dimensions can it be made to
grow! However greatly the whole of the tribe is esteemed among
the moderns, by the ancients they were held in yet higher
estimation. The Egyptians adored and raised altars to them, and
the Greeks and Romans ascribed many of the most exalted virtues
to them. Cato affirmed, that the cabbage cured all diseases, and
declared, that it was to its use that the Romans were enabled to
live in health and without the assistance of physicians for 600
years. It was introduced by that people into Germany, Gaul, and,
no doubt, Britain; although, in this last, it may have been
suffered to pass into desuetude for some centuries. The whole
tribe is in general wholesome and nutritive, and forms a
valuable adjunct to animal food.
SOUP A LA CANTATRICE.
(_An Excellent Soup, very Beneficial for the Voice_.)
119. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of sago, 1/2 pint of cream, the yolks of 3
eggs, 1 lump of sugar, and seasoning to taste, 1 bay-leaf (if liked), 2
quarts of medium stock No. 105.
_Mode_.--Having washed the sago in boiling water, let it be gradually
added to the nearly boiling stock. Simmer for 1/2 an hour, when it
should be well dissolved. Beat up the yolks of the eggs, add to them the
boiling cream; stir these quickly in the soup, and serve immediately. Do
not let the soup boil, or the eggs will curdle.
_Time_.--40 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ all the year.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
_Note_.--This is a soup, the principal ingredients of which, sago and
eggs, have always been deemed very beneficial to the chest and throat.
In various quantities, and in different preparations, these have been
partaken of by the principal singers of the day, including the
celebrated Swedish Nightingale, Jenny Lind, and, as they have always
avowed, with considerable advantage to the voice, in singing.
CARROT SOUP.
I.
120. INGREDIENTS.--4 quarts of liquor in which a leg of mutton or beef
has been boiled, a few beef-bones, 6 large carrots, 2 large onions, 1
turnip; seasoning of salt and pepper to taste; cayenne.
_Mode_.--Put the liquor, bones, onions, turnip, pepper, and salt, into a
stewpan, and simmer for 3 hours. Scrape and cut the carrots thin, strain
the soup on them, and stew them till soft enough to pulp through a hair
sieve or coarse cloth; then boil the pulp with the soup, which should be
of the consistency of pea-soup. Add cayenne. Pulp only the red part of
the carrot, and make this soup the day before it is wanted.
_Time_.--4-1/2 hours. _Average cost_ per quart, 1-1/2d.
_Seasonable_ from October to March.
_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.
II.
121. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of carrots, 3 oz. of butter, seasoning to
taste of salt and cayenne, 2 quarts of stock or gravy soup.
_Mode_.--Scrape and cut out all specks from the carrots, wash, and wipe
them dry, and then reduce them into quarter-inch slices. Put the butter
into a large stewpan, and when it is melted, add 2 lbs. of the sliced
carrots, and let them stew gently for an hour without browning. Add to
them the soup, and allow them to simmer till tender,--say for nearly an
hour. Press them through a strainer with the soup, and add salt and
cayenne if required. Boil the whole gently for 5 minutes, skim well, and
serve as hot as possible.
_Time_.--1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_ per quart, 1s. 1d.
[Illustration: TAZZA AND CARROT LEAVES.]
THE CARROT.--There is a wild carrot which grows in England; but
it is white and small, and not much esteemed. The garden carrot
in general use, was introduced in the reign of Queen Elizabeth,
and was, at first, so highly esteemed, that the ladies wore
leaves of it in their head-dresses. It is of great value in the
culinary art, especially for soups and stews. It can be used
also for beer instead of malt, and, in distillation, it yields a
large quantity of spirit. The carrot is proportionably valuable
as it has more of the red than the yellow part. There is a large
red variety much used by the farmers for colouring butter. As a
garden vegetable, it is what is called the orange-carrot that is
usually cultivated. As a fattening food for cattle, it is
excellent; but for man it is indigestible, on account of its
fibrous matter. Of 1,000 parts, 95 consist of sugar, and 3 of
starch.--The accompanying cut represents a pretty winter
ornament, obtained by placing a cut from the top of the
carrot-root in a shallow vessel of water, when the young leaves
spring forth with a charming freshness and fullness.
CELERY SOUP.
122. INGREDIENTS.--9 heads of celery, 1 teaspoonful of salt, nutmeg to
taste, 1 lump of sugar, 1/2 pint of strong stock, a pint of cream, and 2
quarts of boiling water.
_Mode_.--Cut the celery into small pieces; throw it into the water,
seasoned with the nutmeg, salt, and sugar. Boil it till sufficiently
tender; pass it through a sieve, add the stock, and simmer it for half
an hour. Now put in the cream, bring it to the boiling point, and serve
immediately.
_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. per quart.
_Seasonable_ from September to March.
_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.
_Note_.--This soup can be made brown, instead of white, by omitting the
cream, and colouring it a little. When celery cannot be procured, half a
drachm of the seed, finely pounded, will give a flavour to the soup, if
put in a quarter of an hour before it is done. A little of the essence
of celery will answer the same purpose.
CELERY.--This plant is indigenous to Britain, and, in its wild
state, grows by the side of ditches and along some parts of the
seacoast. In this state it is called _smallaqe_, and, to some
extent, is a dangerous narcotic. By cultivation, however, it has
been brought to the fine flavour which the garden plant
possesses. In the vicinity of Manchester it is raised to an
enormous size. When our natural observation is assisted by the
accurate results ascertained by the light of science, how
infinitely does it enhance our delight in contemplating the
products of nature! To know, for example, that the endless
variety of colour which we see in plants is developed only by
the rays of the sun, is to know a truism sublime by its very
comprehensiveness. The cause of the whiteness of celery is
nothing more than the want of light in its vegetation, and in
order that this effect may be produced, the plant is almost
wholly covered with earth; the tops of the leaves alone being
suffered to appear above the ground.
CHANTILLY SOUP.
123. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of young green peas, a small bunch of
parsley, 2 young onions, 2 quarts of medium stock No. 105.
_Mode_.--Boil the peas till quite tender, with the parsley and onions;
then rub them through a sieve, and pour the stock to them. Do not let it
boil after the peas are added, or you will spoil the colour. Serve very
hot.
_Time_.--Half an hour. _Average_ cost, 1s. 6d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ from June to the end of August.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
_Note_.--Cold peas pounded in a mortar, with a little stock added to
them, make a very good soup in haste.
Parsley.--Among the Greeks, in the classic ages, a crown of
parsley was awarded, both in the Nemaean and Isthmian games, and
the voluptuous Anacreon pronounces this beautiful herb the
emblem of joy and festivity. It has an elegant leaf, and is
extensively used in the culinary art. When it was introduced to
Britain is not known. There are several varieties,--the
_plain_-leaved and the _curled_-leaved, _celery_-parsley,
_Hamburg_ parsley, and _purslane_. The curled is the best, and,
from the form of its leaf, has a beautiful appearance on a dish
as a garnish. Its flavour is, to many, very agreeable in soups;
and although to rabbits, hares, and sheep it is a luxury, to
parrots it is a poison. The celery-parsley is used as a celery,
and the Hamburg is cultivated only for its roots, which are used
as parsnips or carrots, to eat with meat. The purslane is a
native of South America, and is not now much in use.
CHESTNUT (SPANISH) SOUP.
124. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of Spanish chestnuts, 1/4 pint of cream;
seasoning to taste of salt, cayenne, and mace; 1 quart of stock No. 105.
_Mode_.--Take the outer rind from the chestnuts, and put them into a
large pan of warm water. As soon as this becomes too hot for the fingers
to remain in it, take out the chestnuts, peel them quickly, and immerse
them in cold water, and wipe and weigh them. Now cover them with good
stock, and stew them gently for rather more than 3/4 of an hour, or
until they break when touched with a fork; then drain, pound, and rub
them through a fine sieve reversed; add sufficient stock, mace, cayenne,
and salt, and stir it often until it boils, and put in the cream. The
stock in which the chestnuts are boiled can be used for the soup, when
its sweetness is not objected to, or it may, in part, be added to it;
and the rule is, that 3/4 lb. of chestnuts should be given to each quart
of soup.
_Time_.--rather more than 1 hour. _Average cost_ per quart, 1s. 6d.
_Seasonable_ from October to February.
_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.
[Illustration: CHESTNUT.]
THE CHESTNUT.--This fruit is said, by some, to have originally
come from Sardis, in Lydia; and by others, from Castanea, a city
of Thessaly, from which it takes its name. By the ancients it
was much used as a food, and is still common in France and
Italy, to which countries it is, by some, considered indigenous.
In the southern part of the European continent, it is eaten both
raw and roasted. The tree was introduced into Britain by the
Romans; but it only flourishes in the warmer parts of the
island, the fruit rarely arriving at maturity in Scotland. It
attains a great age, as well as an immense size. As a food, it
is the least oily and most farinaceous of all the nuts, and,
therefore, the easiest of digestion. The tree called the _horse
chestnut_ is very different, although its fruit very much
resembles that of the other. Its "nuts," though eaten by horses
and some other animals, are unsuitable for human food.
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