The Book of Household Management - Mrs. Isabella Beeton
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COCOA-NUT SOUP.
125. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of grated cocoa-nut, 6 oz. of rice flour, 1/2 a
teaspoonful of mace; seasoning to taste of cayenne and salt; 1/4 of a
pint of boiling cream, 3 quarts of medium stock No. 105.
_Mode_.--Take the dark rind from the cocoa-nut, and grate it down small
on a clean grater; weigh it, and allow, for each quart of stock, 2 oz.
of the cocoa-nut. Simmer it gently for 1 hour in the stock, which should
then be strained closely from it, and thickened for table.
_Time_.--2-1/4 hours. _Average cost_ per quart, 1s. 3d.
_Seasonable_ in Autumn.
_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.
[Illustration: COCOA-NUT PALM.]
[Illustration: NUT & BLOSSOM.]
THE COCOA-NUT.--This is the fruit of one of the palms, than
which it is questionable if there is any other species of tree
marking, in itself, so abundantly the goodness of Providence, in
making provision for the wants of man. It grows wild in the
Indian seas, and in the eastern parts of Asia; and thence it has
been introduced into every part of the tropical regions. To the
natives of those climates, its bark supplies the material for
creating their dwellings; its leaves, the means of roofing them;
and the leaf-stalks, a kind of gauze for covering their windows,
or protecting the baby in the cradle. It is also made into
lanterns, masks to screen the face from the heat of the sun,
baskets, wicker-work, and even a kind of paper for writing on.
Combs, brooms, torches, ropes, matting, and sailcloth are made
of its fibers. With these, too, beds are made and cushions
stuffed. Oars are supplied by the leaves; drinking-cups, spoons,
and other domestic utensils by the shells of the nuts; milk by
its juice, of which, also, a kind of honey and sugar are
prepared. When fermented, it furnishes the means of
intoxication; and when the fibres are burned, their ashes supply
an alkali for making soap. The buds of the tree bear a striking
resemblance to cabbage when boiled; but when they are cropped,
the tree dies. In a fresh state, the kernel is eaten raw, and
its juice is a most agreeable and refreshing beverage. When the
nut is imported to this country, its fruit is, in general,
comparatively dry, and is considered indigestible. The tree is
one of the least productive of the palm tribe.
SOUP A LA CRECY.
126. INGREDIENTS.--4 carrots, 2 sliced onions, 1 cut lettuce, and
chervil; 2 oz. butter, 1 pint of lentils, the crumbs of 2 French rolls,
half a teacupful of rice, 2 quarts of medium stock No. 105.
_Mode_.--Put the vegetables with the butter in the stewpan, and let them
simmer 5 minutes; then add the lentils and 1 pint of the stock, and stew
gently for half an hour. Now fill it up with the remainder of the stock,
let it boil another hour, and put in the crumb of the rolls. When well
soaked, rub all through a tammy. Have ready the rice boiled; pour the
soup over this, and serve.
_Time_.--1-3/4 hour. _Average cost_,1s. 2d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ all the year.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
[Illustration: THE LENTIL.]
THE LENTIL.--This belongs to the legumious or _pulse_ kind of
vegetables, which rank next to the corn plants in their
nutritive properties. The lentil is a variety of the bean tribe,
but in England is not used as human food, although considered
the best of all kinds for pigeons. On the Continent it is
cultivated for soups, as well as for other preparations for the
table; and among the presents which David received from Shobi,
as recounted in the Scriptures, were beans, lentils, and parched
pulse. Among the Egyptians it was extensively used, and among
the Greeks, the Stoics had a maxim, which declared, that "a wise
man acts always with reason, and prepares his own lentils."
Among the Romans it was not much esteemed, and from them the
English may have inherited a prejudice against it, on account,
it is said, of its rendering men indolent. It takes its name
from _lentus_ 'slow,' and, according to Pliny, produces mildness
and moderation of temper.
CUCUMBER SOUP (French Recipe).
127. INGREDIENTS.--1 large cucumber, a piece of butter the size of a
walnut, a little chervil and sorrel cut in large pieces, salt and pepper
to taste, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 gill of cream, 1 quart of medium stock
No. 105.
_Mode_.--Pare the cucumber, quarter it, and take out the seeds; cut it
in thin slices, put these on a plate with a little salt, to draw the
water from them; drain, and put them in your stewpan, with the butter.
When they are warmed through, without being browned, pour the stock on
them. Add the sorrel, chervil, and seasoning, and boil for 40 minutes.
Mix the well-beaten yolks of the eggs with the cream, which add at the
moment of serving.
_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ from June to September.
_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.
THE CUCUMBER.--The antiquity of this fruit is very great. In the
sacred writings we find that the people of Israel regretted it,
whilst sojourning in the desert; and at the present time, the
cucumber, and other fruits of its class, form a large portion of
the food of the Egyptian people. By the Eastern nations
generally, as well as by the Greeks and Romans, it was greatly
esteemed. Like the melon, it was originally brought from Asia by
the Romans, and in the 14th century it was common in England,
although, in the time of the wars of "the Roses," it seems no
longer to have been cultivated. It is a cold food, and of
difficult digestion when eaten raw. As a preserved sweetmeat,
however, it is esteemed one of the most agreeable.
EGG SOUP.
128. INGREDIENTS.--A tablespoonful of flour, 4 eggs, 2 small blades of
finely-pounded mace, 2 quarts of stock No. 105.
_Mode_.--Beat up the flour smoothly in a teaspoonful of cold stock, and
put in the eggs; throw them into boiling stock, stirring all the time.
Simmer for 1/4 of an hour. Season and serve with a French roll in the
tureen, or fried sippets of bread.
_Time_. 1/2 an hour. _Average cost_,11d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ all the year.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
SOUP A LA FLAMANDE (Flemish).
I.
129. INGREDIENTS.--1 turnip, 1 small carrot, 1/2 head of celery, 6 green
onions shred very fine, 1 lettuce cut small, chervil, 1/4 pint of
asparagus cut small, 1/4 pint of peas, 2 oz. butter, the yolks of 4
eggs, 1/2 pint of cream, salt to taste, 1 lump of sugar, 2 quarts of
stock No. 105.
_Mode_.--Put the vegetables in the butter to stew gently for an hour
with a teacupful of stock; then add the remainder of the stock, and
simmer for another hour. Now beat the yolks of the eggs well, mix with
the cream (previously boiled), and strain through a hair sieve. Take the
soup off the fire, put the eggs, &c. to it, and keep stirring it well.
Bring it to a boil, but do not leave off stirring, or the eggs will
curdle. Season with salt, and add the sugar.
_Time_.--24 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ from May to August.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
CHERVIL.--Although the roots of this plant are poisonous, its
leaves are tender, and are used in salads. In antiquity it made
a relishing dish, when prepared with oil, wine, and gravy. It is
a native of various parts of Europe; and the species cultivated
in the gardens of Paris, has beautifully frizzled leaves.
II.
130. INGREDIENTS.--5 onions, 5 heads of celery, 10 moderate-sized
potatoes, 3 oz. butter, 1/2 pint of water, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 quarts
of stock No. 105.
_Mode_.--Slice the onions, celery, and potatoes, and put them with the
butter and water into a stewpan, and simmer for an hour. Then fill up
the stewpan with stock, and boil gently till the potatoes are done,
which will be in about an hour. Rub all through a tammy, and add the
cream (previously boiled). Do not let it boil after the cream is put in.
_Time_.--2-1/2 hours. __Average cost_,1s. 4d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ from September to May.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
_Note_.--This soup can be made with water instead of stock.
SOUP A LA JULIENNE.
[Illustration: STRIPS OF VEGETABLE.]
131. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of carrots, 1/2 pint of turnips, 1/4 pint of
onions, 2 or 3 leeks, 1/2 head of celery, 1 lettuce, a little sorrel and
chervil, if liked, 2 oz. of butter, 2 quarts of stock No. 105.
_Mode_.--Cut the vegetables into strips of about 1-1/4 inch long, and be
particular they are all the same size, or some will be hard whilst the
others will be done to a pulp. Cut the lettuce, sorrel, and chervil into
larger pieces; fry the carrots in the butter, and pour the stock boiling
to them. When this is done, add all the other vegetables, and herbs, and
stew gently for at least an hour. Skim off all the fat, pour the soup
over thin slices of bread, cut round about the size of a shilling, and
serve.
_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ all the year.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
_Note_.--In summer, green peas, asparagus-tops, French beans, &c. can be
added. When the vegetables are very strong, instead of frying them in
butter at first, they should be blanched, and afterwards simmered in the
stock.
SORREL.--This is one of the _spinaceous_ plants, which take
their name from spinach, which is the chief among them. It is
little used in English cookery, but a great deal in French, in
which it is employed for soups, sauces, and salads. In English
meadows it is usually left to grow wild; but in France, where it
is cultivated, its flavour is greatly improved.
KALE BROSE (a Scotch Recipe).
132. INGREDIENTS.--Half an ox-head or cow-heel, a teacupful of toasted
oatmeal, salt to taste, 2 handfuls of greens, 3 quarts of water.
_Mode_.--Make a broth of the ox-head or cow-heel, and boil it till oil
floats on the top of the liquor, then boil the greens, shred, in it. Put
the oatmeal, with a little salt, into a basin, and mix with it quickly a
teacupful of the fat broth: it should not run into one doughy mass, but
form knots. Stir it into the whole, give one boil, and serve very hot.
_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, 8d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable in winter.
_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.
LEEK SOUP.
I.
133. INGREDIENTS.--A sheep's head, 3 quarts of water, 12 leeks cut
small, pepper and salt to taste, oatmeal to thicken.
_Mode_.--Prepare the head, either by skinning or cleaning the skin very
nicely; split it in two; take out the brains, and put it into boiling
water; add the leeks and seasoning, and simmer very gently for 4 hours.
Mix smoothly, with cold water, as much oatmeal as will make the soup
tolerably thick; pour it into the soup; continue stirring till the whole
is blended and well done, and serve.
_Time_.--4-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 4d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ in winter.
_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.
II.
COMMONLY CALLED COCK-A-LEEKIE.
134. INGREDIENTS.--A capon or large fowl (sometimes an old cock, from
which the recipe takes its name, is used), which should be trussed as
for boiling; 2 or 3 bunches of fine leeks, 5 quarts of stock No. 105,
pepper and salt to taste.
_Mode_.--Well wash the leeks (and, if old, scald them in boiling water
for a few minutes), taking off the roots and part of the heads, and cut
them into lengths of about an inch. Put the fowl into the stock, with,
at first, one half of the leeks, and allow it to simmer gently. In half
an hour add the remaining leeks, and then it may simmer for 3 or 4 hours
longer. It should be carefully skimmed, and can be seasoned to taste. In
serving, take out the fowl, and carve it neatly, placing the pieces in a
tureen, and pouring over them the soup, which should be very thick of
leeks (a _puree_ of leeks the French would call it).
_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. per quart; or, with stock No.
106, 1s.
_Seasonable_ in winter.
_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.
_Note_.--Without the fowl, the above, which would then be merely called
leek soup, is very good, and also economical. Cock-a-leekie was largely
consumed at the Burns Centenary Festival at the Crystal Palace,
Sydenham, in 1859.
[Illustration: LEEKS.]
THE LEEK.--As in the case of the cucumber, this vegetable was
bewailed by the Israelites in their journey through the desert.
It is one of the alliaceous tribe, which consists of the onion,
garlic, chive, shallot, and leek. These, as articles of food,
are perhaps more widely diffused over the face of the earth than
any other _genus_ of edible plants. It is the national badge of
the Welsh, and tradition ascribes to St. David its introduction
to that part of Britain. The origin of the wearing of the leek
on St. David's day, among that people, is thus given in
"BEETON'S DICTIONARY of UNIVERSAL INFORMATION:"--"It probably
originated from the custom of _Cymhortha_, or the friendly aid,
practised among farmers. In some districts of South Wales, all
the neighbours of a small farmer were wont to appoint a day when
they attended to plough his land, and the like; and, at such
time, it was the custom for each to bring his portion of leeks
with him for making the broth or soup." (_See_ ST. DAVID.)
Others derive the origin of the custom from the battle of
Cressy. The plant, when grown in Wales and Scotland, is sharper
than it is in England, and its flavour is preferred by many to
that of the onion in broth. It is very wholesome, and, to
prevent its tainting the breath, should be well boiled.
MACARONI SOUP.
135. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of macaroni, a piece of butter the size of a
walnut, salt to taste, 2 quarts of clear stock No. 105.
_Mode_.--Throw the macaroni and butter into boiling water, with a pinch
of salt, and simmer for 1/2 an hour. When it is tender, drain and cut it
into thin rings or lengths, and drop it into the boiling stock. Stew
gently for 15 minutes, and serve grated Parmesan cheese with it.
_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. per quart.
_Seasonable_ all the year.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
[Illustration: MACARONI.]
MACARONI.--This is the favourite food of Italy, where,
especially among the Neapolitans, it may be regarded as the
staff of life. "The crowd of London," says Mr. Forsyth, "is a
double line in quick motion; it is the crowd of business. The
crowd of Naples consists in a general tide rolling up and down,
and in the middle of this tide, a hundred eddies of men. You are
stopped by a carpenter's bench, you are lost among shoemakers'
stalls, and you dash among the _pots of a macaroni stall_." This
article of food is nothing more than a thick paste, made of the
best wheaten flour, with a small quantity of water. When it has
been well worked, it is put into a hollow cylindrical vessel,
pierced with holes of the size of tobacco-pipes at the bottom.
Through these holes the mass is forced by a powerful screw
bearing on a piece of wood made exactly to fit the inside of the
cylinder. Whilst issuing from the holes, it is partially baked
by a fire placed below the cylinder, and is, at the same time,
drawn away and hung over rods placed about the room, in order to
dry. In a few days it is fit for use. As it is both wholesome
and nutritious, it ought to be much more used by all classes in
England than it is. It generally accompanies Parmesan cheese to
the tables of the rich, but is also used for thickening soups
and making puddings.
SOUP MAIGRE (i.e. without Meat).
136. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. butter, 6 onions sliced, 4 heads of celery, 2
lettuces, a small bunch of parsley, 2 handfuls of spinach, 3 pieces of
bread-crust, 2 blades of mace, salt and pepper to taste, the yolks of 2
eggs, 3 teaspoonfuls of vinegar, 2 quarts of water.
_Mode_.--Melt the butter in a stewpan, and put in the onions to stew
gently for 3 or 4 minutes; then add the celery, spinach, lettuces, and
parsley, cut small. Stir the ingredients well for 10 minutes. Now put in
the water, bread, seasoning, and mace. Boil gently for 1-1/2 hour, and,
at the moment of serving, beat in the yolks of the eggs and the vinegar,
but do not let it boil, or the eggs will curdle.
_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ all the year.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
[Illustration: LETTUCE.]
THE LETTUCE.--This is one of the acetarious vegetables, which
comprise a large class, chiefly used as pickles, salads, and
other condiments. The lettuce has in all antiquity been
distinguished as a kitchen-garden plant. It was, without
preparation, eaten by the Hebrews with the Paschal lamb; the
Greeks delighted in it, and the Romans, in the time of Domitian,
had it prepared with eggs, and served in the first course at
their tables, merely to excite their appetites. Its botanical
name is _Lactuca_, so called from the milky juice it exudes when
its stalks are cut. It possesses a narcotic virtue, noticed by
ancient physicians; and even in our day a lettuce supper is
deemed conducive to repose. Its proper character, however, is
that of a cooling summer vegetable, not very nutritive, but
serving as a corrective, or diluent of animal food.
MILK SOUP (a Nice Dish for Children).
137. INGREDIENTS.--2 quarts of milk, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 1
teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, 3 teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar, or
more if liked, 4 thin slices of bread, the yolks of 6 eggs.
_Mode_.--Boil the milk with the salt, cinnamon, and sugar; lay the bread
in a deep dish, pour over it a little of the milk, and keep it hot over
a stove, without burning. Beat up the yolks of the eggs, add them to the
milk, and stir it over the fire till it thickens. Do not let it curdle.
Pour it upon the bread, and serve.
_Time_.--3/4 of an hour. _Average cost_, 8d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ all the year.
_Sufficient_ for 10 children.
ONION SOUP.
138. INGREDIENTS.--6 large onions, 2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to
taste, 1/4 pint of cream, 1 quart of stock No. 105.
_Mode_.--Chop the onions, put them in the butter, stir them
occasionally, but do not let them brown. When tender, put the stock to
them, and season; strain the soup, and add the boiling cream.
_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. per quart.
_Seasonable_ in winter.
_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.
CHEAP ONION SOUP.
139. INGREDIENTS.--8 middling-sized onions, 3 oz. of butter, a
tablespoonful of rice-flour, salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of
powdered sugar, thickening of butter and flour, 2 quarts of water.
_Mode_.--Cut the onions small, put them in the stewpan with the butter,
and fry them well; mix the rice-flour smoothly with the water, add the
onions, seasoning, and sugar, and simmer till tender. Thicken with
butter and flour, and serve.
_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_,4d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ in winter.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
[Illustration: ONION.]
THE ONION.--Like the cabbage, this plant was erected into an
object of worship by the idolatrous Egyptians 2,000 years before
the Christian era, and it still forms a favourite food in the
country of these people, as well as in other parts of Africa.
When it was first introduced to England, has not been
ascertained; but it has long been in use, and esteemed as a
favourite seasoning plant to various dishes. In warmer climates
it is much milder in its flavour; and such as are grown in Spain
and Portugal, are, comparatively speaking, very large, and are
often eaten both in a boiled and roasted state. The Strasburg is
the most esteemed; and, although all the species have highly
nutritive properties, they impart such a disagreeable odour to
the breath, that they are often rejected even where they are
liked. Chewing a little raw parsley is said to remove this
odour.
PAN KAIL.
140. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of cabbage, or Savoy greens; 1/4 lb. of butter
or dripping, salt and pepper to taste, oatmeal for thickening, 2 quarts
of water.
_Mode_.--Chop the cabbage very fine, thicken the water with oatmeal, put
in the cabbage and butter, or dripping; season and simmer for 1-1/2
hour. It can be made sooner by blanching and mashing the greens, adding
any good liquor that a joint has been boiled in, and then further
thicken with bread or pounded biscuit.
_Time_--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1-1/2d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable in winter.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
THE SAVOY.--This is a close-hearted wrinkle-leaved cabbage,
sweet and tender, especially the middle leaves, and in season
from November to spring. The yellow species bears hard weather
without injury, whilst the _dwarf_ kind are improved and
rendered more tender by frost.
PARSNIP SOUP.
141. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of sliced parsnips, 2 oz. of butter, salt and
cayenne to taste, 1 quart of stock No. 106.
_Mode_.--Put the parsnips into the stewpan with the butter, which has
been previously melted, and simmer them till quite tender. Then add
nearly a pint of stock, and boil together for half an hour. Pass all
through a fine strainer, and put to it the remainder of the stock.
Season, boil, and serve immediately.
_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ from October to April.
_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.
THE PARSNIP.--This is a biennial plant, with a root like a
carrot, which, in nutritive and saccharine matter, it nearly
equals. It is a native of Britain, and, in its wild state, may
be found, in many parts, growing by the road-sides. It is also
to be found, generally distributed over Europe; and, in Catholic
countries, is mostly used with salt fish, in Lent. In Scotland
it forms an excellent dish, when beat up with butter and
potatoes; it is, also, excellent when fried. In Ireland it is
found to yield, in conjunction with the hop, a pleasant
beverage; and it contains as much spirit as the carrot, and
makes an excellent wine. Its proportion of nutritive matter is
99 parts in 1,000; 9 being mucilage and 90 sugar.
PEA SOUP (GREEN).
142. INGREDIENTS.--3 pints of green peas, 1/4 lb. of butter, 2 or three
thin slices of ham, 6 onions sliced, 4 shredded lettuces, the crumb of 2
French rolls, 2 handfuls of spinach, 1 lump of sugar, 2 quarts of common
stock.
_Mode_.--Put the butter, ham, 1 quart of the peas, onions, and lettuces,
to a pint of stock, and simmer for an hour; then add the remainder of
the stock, with the crumb of the French rolls, and boil for another
hour. Now boil the spinach, and squeeze it very dry. Rub the soup
through a sieve, and the spinach with it, to colour it. Have ready a
pint of _young_ peas boiled; add them to the soup, put in the sugar,
give one boil, and serve. If necessary, add salt.
_Time_.--2-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ from June to the end of August.
_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.
_Note_.--It will be well to add, if the peas are not quite young, a
little sugar. Where economy is essential, water may be used instead of
stock for this soup, boiling in it likewise the pea-shells; but use a
double quantity of vegetables.
WINTER PEA SOUP (YELLOW).
143. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of split peas, 2 lbs. of shin of beef,
trimmings of meat or poultry, a slice of bacon, 2 large carrots, 2
turnips, 5 large onions, 1 head of celery, seasoning to taste, 2 quarts
of soft water, any bones left from roast meat, 2 quarts of common stock,
or liquor in which a joint of meat has been boiled.
_Mode_.--Put the peas to soak over-night in soft water, and float off
such as rise to the top. Boil them in the water till tender enough to
pulp; then add the ingredients mentioned above, and simmer for 2 hours,
stirring it occasionally. Pass the whole through a sieve, skim well,
season, and serve with toasted bread cut in dice.
_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. per quart. _Seasonable_ all the
year round, but more suitable for cold weather. _Sufficient_ for 12
persons.
[Illustration: PEA.]
THE PEA.--It is supposed that the common gray pea, found wild in
Greece, and other parts of the Levant, is the original of the
common garden pea, and of all the domestic varieties belonging
to it. The gray, or field pea, called _bisallie_ by the French,
is less subject to run into varieties than the garden kinds, and
is considered by some, perhaps on that account, to be the wild
plant, retaining still a large proportion of its original habit.
From the tendency of all other varieties "to run away" and
become different to what they originally were, it is very
difficult to determine the races to which they belong. The pea
was well known to the Romans, and, probably, was introduced to
Britain at an early period; for we find peas mentioned by
Lydgate, a poet of the 15th century, as being hawked in London.
They seem, however, for a considerable time, to have fallen out
of use; for, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, Fuller tells us
they were brought from Holland, and were accounted "fit dainties
for ladies, they came so far and cost so dear." There are some
varieties of peas which have no lining in their pods, which are
eaten cooked in the same way as kidney-beans. They are called
_sugar_ peas, and the best variety is the large crooked sugar,
which is also very good, used in the common way, as a culinary
vegetable. There is also a white sort, which readily splits when
subjected to the action of millstones set wide apart, so as not
to grind them. These are used largely for soups, and especially
for sea-stores. From the quantity of farinaceous and saccharine
matter contained in the pea, it is highly nutritious as an
article of food.
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