The Book of Household Management - Mrs. Isabella Beeton
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_Mode_.--Rub the head with salt, soak it for 6 hours, and clean it
thoroughly; put it in the stewpan, and cover it with the stock, or
pot-liquor, or water, adding the onion and sweet herbs. When well
skimmed and boiled for 1-1/2 hour, take out the head, and skim and
strain the soup. Mix the rice-flour with the ketchup, thicken the soup
with it, and simmer for 5 minutes. Now cut up the head into pieces about
two inches long, and simmer them in the soup till the meat and fat are
quite tender. Season with white pepper and mace finely pounded, and
serve very hot. When the calf's head is taken out of the soup, cover it
up, or it will discolour.
_Time_.--2-1/2 hours. _Average cost_,1s. 9d. per quart, with stock No.
107.
_Seasonable_ from May to October.
_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.
_Note_.--Force-meat balls can be added, and the soup may be flavoured
with a little lemon-juice, or a glass of sherry or Madeira. The bones
from the head may be stewed down again, with a few fresh vegetables, and
it will make a very good common stock.
GIBLET SOUP.
168. INGREDIENTS.--3 sets of goose or duck giblets, 2 lbs. of shin of
beef, a few bones, 1 ox-tail, 2 mutton-shanks, 2 large onions, 2
carrots, 1 large faggot of herbs, salt and pepper to taste, 1/4 pint of
cream, 1 oz. of butter mixed with a dessert-spoonful of flour, 3 quarts
of water.
_Mode_.--Scald the giblets, cut the gizzards in 8 pieces, and put them
in a stewpan with the beef, bones, ox-tail, mutton-shanks, onions,
herbs, pepper, and salt; add the 3 quarts of water, and simmer till the
giblets are tender, taking care to skim well. When the giblets are done,
take them out, put them in your tureen, strain the soup through a sieve,
add the cream and butter, mixed with a dessert-spoonful of flour, boil
it up a few minutes, and pour it over the giblets. It can be flavoured
with port wine and a little mushroom ketchup, instead of cream. Add salt
to taste.
_Time_.--3 hours. _Average cost_,9d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ all the year.
_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.
GRAVY SOUP.
169. INGREDIENTS.--6 lbs. of shin of beef, a knuckle of veal weighing 5
lbs., a few pieces or trimmings, 2 slices of nicely-flavoured lean, ham;
1/4 lb. of butter, 2 onions, 2 carrots, 1 turnip, nearly a head of
celery, 1 blade of mace, 6 cloves, a hunch of savoury herb with endive,
seasoning of salt and pepper to taste, 3 lumps of sugar, 5 quarts of
boiling soft water. It can be flavoured with ketchup, Leamington sauce
(_see_ SAUCES), Harvey's sauce, and a little soy.
_Mode_.--Slightly brown the meat and ham in the butter, but do not let
them burn. When this is done, pour to it the water, and as the scum
rises, take it off; when no more appears, add all the other ingredients,
and let the soup simmer slowly by the fire for 6 hours without stirring
it any more from the bottom; take it off, and let it settle; skim off
all the fat you can, and pass it through a tammy. When perfectly cold,
you can remove all the fat, and leave the sediment untouched, which
serves very nicely for thick gravies, hashes, &c.
_Time_.--7 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. per quart.
_Seasonable_ all the year.
_Sufficient_ for 14 persons.
ENDIVE.--This plant belongs to the acetarious tribe of
vegetables, and is supposed to have originally come from China
and Japan. It was known to the ancients; but was not introduced
to England till about the middle of the 16th century. It is
consumed in large quantities by the French, and in London,--in
the neighbourhood of which it is grown in abundance;--it is
greatly used as a winter salad, as well as in soups and stews.
HARE SOUP.
I.
170. INGREDIENTS.--A hare fresh-killed, 1 lb. of lean gravy-beef, a
slice of ham, 1 carrot, 2 onions, a faggot of savoury herbs, 1/4 oz. of
whole black pepper, a little browned flour, 1/4 pint of port wine, the
crumb of two French rolls, salt and cayenne to taste, 3 quarts of water.
_Mode_.--Skin and paunch the hare, saving the liver and as much blood as
possible. Cut it in pieces, and put it in a stewpan with all the
ingredients, and simmer gently for 8 hours. This soup should be made the
day before it is wanted. Strain through a sieve, put the best parts of
the hare in the soup, and serve.
OR,
II.
Proceed as above; but, instead of putting the joints of the hare in the
soup, pick the meat from the bones, pound it in a mortar, and add it,
with the crumb of two French rolls, to the soup. Rub all through a
sieve; heat slowly, but do not let it boil. Send it to table
immediately.
_Time_.-8 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ from September to February.
_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.
[Illustration: HARE.]
THE COMMON HARE.--This little animal is found throughout Europe,
and, indeed, in most of the northern parts of the world; and as
it is destitute of natural weapons of defence, Providence has
endowed it with an extraordinary amount of the passion of fear.
As if to awaken the vigilance of this passion, too, He has
furnished it with long and tubular ears, in order that it may
catch the remotest sounds; and with full, prominent eyes, which
enable it to see, at one and the same time, both before and
behind it. The hare feeds in the evenings, and sleeps, in its
form, during the day; and, as it generally lies on the ground,
its feet, both below and above, are protected with a thick
covering of hair. Its flesh, though esteemed by the Romans, was
forbidden by the Druids and by the earlier Britons. It is now,
though very dark and dry, and devoid of fat, much esteemed by
Europeans, on account of the peculiarity of its flavour. In
purchasing this animal, it ought to be remembered that both
hares and rabbits, when old, have their claws rugged and blunt,
their haunches thick, and their ears dry and tough. The ears of
a young hare easily tear, and it has a narrow cleft in the lip;
whilst its claws are both smooth and sharp.
HESSIAN SOUP.
171. INGREDIENTS.--Half an ox's head, 1 pint of split peas, 3 carrots, 6
turnips, 6 potatoes, 6 onions, 1 head of celery, 1 bunch of savoury
herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 2 blades of mace, a little allspice, 4
cloves, the crumb of a French roll, 6 quarts of water.
_Mode_.--Clean the head, rub it with salt and water, and soak it for 5
hours in warm water. Simmer it in the water till tender, put it into a
pan and let it cool; skim off all the fat; take out the head, and add
the vegetables cut up small, and the peas which have been previously
soaked; simmer them without the meat, till they are done enough to pulp
through a sieve. Add the seasoning, with pieces of the meat cut up; give
one boil, and serve.
_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ in winter.
_Sufficient_ for 16 persons.
_Note_.--An excellent hash or _ragout_ can be made by cutting up the
nicest parts of the head, thickening and seasoning more highly a little
of the soup, and adding a glass of port wine and 2 tablespoonfuls of
ketchup.
MOCK TURTLE.
I.
172. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 a calf's head, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1/4 lb. of lean
ham, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, a little minced lemon thyme,
sweet marjoram, basil, 2 onions, a few chopped mushrooms (when
obtainable), 2 shallots, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1/4 bottle of
Madeira or sherry, force-meat balls, cayenne, salt and mace to taste,
the juice of 1 lemon and 1 Seville orange, 1 dessert-spoonful of pounded
sugar, 3 quarts of best stock, No. 104.
_Mode_.--Scald the head with the skin on, remove the brain, tie the head
up in a cloth, and let it boil for 1 hour. Then take the meat from the
bones, cut it into small square pieces, and throw them into cold water.
Now take the meat, put it into a stewpan, and cover with stock; let it
boil gently for an hour, or rather more, if not quite tender, and set it
on one side. Melt the butter in another stewpan, and add the ham, cut
small, with the herbs, parsley, onions, shallots, mushrooms, and nearly
a pint of stock; let these simmer slowly for 2 hours, and then dredge in
as much flour as will dry up the butter. Fill up with the remainder of
the stock, add the wine, let it stew gently for 10 minutes, rub it
through a tammy, and put it to the calf's head; season with cayenne,
and, if required, a little salt; add the juice of the orange and lemon;
and when liked, 1/4 teaspoonful of pounded mace, and the sugar. Put in
the force-meat balls, simmer 5 minutes, and serve very hot.
_Time_.--4-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 3s. 6d. per quart, or 2s. 6d.
without wine or force-meat balls.
_Seasonable_ in winter.
_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.
_Note_.--The bones of the head should be well stewed in the liquor it
was first boiled in, and will make good white stock, flavoured with
vegetables, etc.
II.
(_More Economical_.)
173. INGREDIENTS.--A knuckle of veal weighing 5 or 6 lbs., 2 cow-heels,
2 large onions stuck with cloves, 1 bunch of sweet herbs, 3 blades of
mace, salt to taste, 12 peppercorns, 1 glass of sherry, 24 force-meat
balls, a little lemon-juice, 4 quarts of water.
_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients, except the force-meat balls and
lemon-juice, in an earthen jar, and stew for 6 hours. Do not open it
till cold. When wanted for use, skim off all the fat, and strain
carefully; place it on the fire, cut up the meat into inch-and-a-half
squares, put it, with the force-meat balls and lemon-juice, into the
soup, and serve. It can be flavoured with a tablespoonful of anchovy, or
Harvey's sauce.
_Time_.--6 hours. _Average cost_,1s. 4d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ in winter.
_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.
THE CALF--The flesh of this animal is called veal, and when
young, that is, under two months old, yields a large quantity of
soluble extract, and is, therefore, much employed for soups and
broths. The Essex farmers have obtained a celebrity for
fattening calves better than any others in England, where they
are plentifully supplied with milk, a thing impossible to be
done in the immediate neighbourhood of London.
MARJORAM.--There are several species of this plant; but that
which is preferred for cookery is a native of Portugal, and is
called sweet or knotted marjoram. When its leaves are dried,
they have an agreeable aromatic flavour; and hence are used for
soups, stuffings, &c.
BASIL.--This is a native of the East Indies, and is highly
aromatic, having a perfume greatly resembling that of cloves. It
is not much employed in English cookery, but is a favourite with
French cooks, by whom its leaves are used in soups and salads.
MULLAGATAWNY SOUP.
174. INGREDIENTS.--2 tablespoonfuls of curry powder, 6 onions, 1 clove
of garlic, 1 oz. of pounded almonds, a little lemon-pickle, or
mango-juice, to taste; 1 fowl or rabbit, 4 slices of lean bacon; 2
quarts of medium stock, or, if wanted very good, best stock.
_Mode_.-=Slice and fry the onions of a nice colour; line the stewpan
with the bacon; cut up the rabbit or fowl into small joints, and
slightly brown them; put in the fried onions, the garlic, and stock, and
simmer gently till the meat is tender; skim very carefully, and when the
meat is done, rub the curry powder to a smooth batter; add it to the
soup with the almonds, which must be first pounded with a little of the
stock. Put in seasoning and lemon-pickle or mango-juice to taste, and
serve boiled rice with it.
_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. per quart, with stock No. 105.
_Seasonable_ in winter.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
_Note_.--This soup can also be made with breast of veal, or calf's head.
Vegetable Mullagatawny is made with veal stock, by boiling and pulping
chopped vegetable marrow, cucumbers, onions, and tomatoes, and seasoning
with curry powder and cayenne. Nice pieces of meat, good curry powder,
and strong stock, are necessary to make this soup good.
[Illustration: CORIANDER.]
CORIANDER.--This plant, which largely enters into the
composition of curry powder with turmeric, originally comes from
the East; but it has long been cultivated in England, especially
in Essex, where it is reared for the use of confectioners and
druggists. In private gardens, it is cultivated for the sake of
its tender leaves, which are highly aromatic, and are employed
in soups and salads. Its seeds are used in large quantities for
the purposes of distillation.
A GOOD MUTTON SOUP.
175. INGREDIENTS.--A neck of mutton about 5 or 6 lbs., 3 carrots, 3
turnips, 2 onions, a large bunch of sweet herbs, including parsley; salt
and pepper to taste; a little sherry, if liked; 3 quarts of water.
_Mode_.--Lay the ingredients in a covered pan before the fire, and let
them remain there the whole day, stirring occasionally. The next day put
the whole into a stewpan, and place it on a brisk fire. When it
commences to boil, take the pan off the fire, and put it on one side to
simmer until the meat is done. When ready for use, take out the meat,
dish it up with carrots and turnips, and send it to table; strain the
soup, let it cool, skim off all the fat, season and thicken it with a
tablespoonful, or rather more, of arrowroot; flavour with a little
sherry, simmer for 5 minutes, and serve.
_Time_.--15 hours. _Average cost_, including the meat, 1s. 3d. per
quart.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
THE SHEEP.--This animal formed the principal riches of the
patriarchs, in the days of old, and, no doubt, multiplied, until
its species were spread over the greater part of Western Asia;
but at what period it was introduced to Britain is not known. It
is now found in almost every part of the globe, although, as a
domestic animal, it depends almost entirely upon man for its
support. Its value, however, amply repays him for whatever care
and kindness he may bestow upon it; for, like the ox, there is
scarcely a part of it that he cannot convert to some useful
purpose. The fleece, which serves it for a covering, is
appropriated by man, to serve the same end to himself, whilst
its skin is also applied to various purposes in civilized life.
Its entrails are used as strings for musical instruments, and
its bones are calcined, and employed as tests in the trade of
the refiner. Its milk, being thicker than that of the cow,
yields a greater quantity of butter and cheese, and its flesh is
among the most wholesome and nutritive that can be eaten.
Thomson has beautifully described the appearance of the sheep,
when bound to undergo the operation of being shorn of its wool.
"Behold, where bound, and of its robe bereft
By needy man, that all-depending lord,
How meek, how patient, the mild creature lies!
What softness in his melancholy face,
What dumb complaining innocence appears!"
OX-CHEEK SOUP.
176. INGREDIENTS.--An ox-cheek, 2 oz. of butter, 3 or 4 slices of lean
ham or bacon, 1 parsnip, 3 carrots, 2 onions, 3 heads of celery, 3
blades of mace, 4 cloves, a faggot of savoury herbs, 1 bay-leaf, a
teaspoonful of salt, half that of pepper, 1 head of celery, browning,
the crust of a French roll, 6 quarts of water.
_Mode_.--Lay the ham in the bottom of the stewpan, with the butter;
break the bones of the cheek, wash it clean, and put it on the ham. Cut
the vegetables small, add them to the other ingredients, and set the
whole over a slow fire for 1/4 of an hour. Now put in the water, and
simmer gently till it is reduced to 4 quarts; take out the fleshy part
of the cheek, and strain the soup into a clean stewpan; thicken with
flour, put in a head of sliced celery, and simmer till the celery is
tender. If not a good colour, use a little browning. Cut the meat into
small square pieces, pour the soup over, and serve with the crust of a
French roll in the tureen. A glass of sherry much improves this soup.
_Time_.--3 to 4 hours. _Average cost_, 8d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ in winter.
_Sufficient_ for 12 persons.
THE OX.--Of the quadrupedal animals, the flesh of those that
feed upon herbs is the most wholesome and nutritious for human
food. In the early ages, the ox was used as a religious
sacrifice, and, in the eyes of the Egyptians was deemed so
sacred as to be worthy of exaltation to represent Taurus, one of
the twelve signs of the zodiac. To this day, the Hindoos
venerate the cow, whose flesh is forbidden to be eaten, and
whose fat, supposed to have been employed to grease the
cartridges of the Indian army, was one of the proximate causes
of the great Sepoy rebellion of 1857. There are no animals of
greater use to man than the tribe to which the ox belongs. There
is hardly a part of them that does not enter into some of the
arts and purposes of civilized life. Of their horns are made
combs, knife-handles, boxes, spoons, and drinking-cups. They are
also made into transparent plates for lanterns; an invention
ascribed, in England, to King Alfred. Glue is made from their
gristles, cartilages, and portions of their hides. Their bones
often form a substitute for ivory; their skins, when calves, are
manufactured into vellum; their blood is the basis of Prussian
blue; their sinews furnish fine and strong threads, used by
saddlers; their hair enters into various manufactures; their
tallow is made into candles; their flesh is eaten, and the
utility of the milk and cream of the cow is well known.
OX-TAIL SOUP.
177. INGREDIENTS.--2 ox-tails, 2 slices of ham, 1 oz. of butter, 2
carrots, 2 turnips, 3 onions, 1 leek, 1 head of celery, 1 bunch of
savoury herbs, 1 bay-leaf, 12 whole peppercorns, 4 cloves, a
tablespoonful of salt, 2 tablespoonfuls of ketchup, 1/2 glass of port
wine, 3 quarts of water.
_Mode_.--Cut up the tails, separating them at the joints; wash them, and
put them in a stewpan, with the butter. Cut the vegetables in slices,
and add them, with the peppercorns and herbs. Put in 1/2 pint of water,
and stir it over a sharp fire till the juices are drawn. Fill up the
stewpan with the water, and, when boiling, add the salt. Skim well, and
simmer very gently for 4 hours, or until the tails are tender. Take them
out, skim and strain the soup, thicken with flour, and flavour with the
ketchup and port wine. Put back the tails, simmer for 5 minutes, and
serve.
_Time_.--4-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ in winter.
_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.
PARTRIDGE SOUP.
178. INGREDIENTS.--2 partridges, 3 slices of lean ham, 2 shred onions, 1
head of celery, 1 large carrot, and 1 turnip cut into any fanciful
shapes, 1 small lump of sugar, 2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to
taste, 2 quarts of stock No. 105, or common, No. 106.
_Mode_.--Cut the partridges into pieces, and braise them in the butter
and ham until quite tender; then take out the legs, wings, and breast,
and set them by. Keep the backs and other trimmings in the braise, and
add the onions and celery; any remains of cold game can be put in, and 3
pints of stock. Simmer slowly for 1 hour, strain it, and skim the fat
off as clean as possible; put in the pieces that were taken out, give it
one boil, and skim again to have it quite clear, and add the sugar and
seasoning. Now simmer the cut carrot and turnip in 1 pint of stock; when
quite tender, put them to the partridges, and serve.
_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 2s. or 1s. 6d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ from September to February.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
_Note_.--The meat of the partridges may be pounded with the crumb of a
French roll, and worked with the soup through a sieve. Serve with stewed
celery cut in slices, and put in the tureen.
THE PARTRIDGE.--This is a timorous bird, being easily taken. It
became known to the Greeks and Romans, whose tables it helped to
furnish with food. Formerly, the Red was scarce in Italy, but
its place was supplied by the White, which, at considerable
expense, was frequently procured from the Alps. The Athenians
trained this bird for fighting, and Severus used to lighten the
cares of royalty by witnessing the spirit of its combats. The
Greeks esteemed its leg most highly, and rejected the other
portions as unfashionable to be eaten. The Romans, however,
ventured a little further, and ate the breast, whilst we
consider the bird as wholly palatable. It is an inhabitant of
all the temperate countries of Europe, but, on account of the
geniality of the climate, it abounds most in the Ukraine.
PHEASANT SOUP.
179. INGREDIENTS.--2 pheasants, 1/4 lb. of butter, 2 slices of ham, 2
large onions sliced, 1/2 head of celery, the crumb of two French rolls,
the yolks of 2 eggs boiled hard, salt and cayenne to taste, a little
pounded mace, if liked; 3 quarts of stock No. 105.
_Mode_.--Cut up the pheasants, flour and braise them in the butter and
ham till they are of a nice brown, but not burnt. Put them in a stewpan,
with the onions, celery, and seasoning, and simmer for 2 hours. Strain
the soup; pound the breasts with the crumb of the roll previously
soaked, and the yolks of the eggs; put it to the soup, give one boil,
and serve.
_Time_.--2-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 2s. 10d. per quart, or, if made
with fragments of gold game, 1s.
_Seasonable_ from October to February.
_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.
_Note_.--Fragments, pieces and bones of cold game, may be used to great
advantage in this soup, and then 1 pheasant will suffice.
PORTABLE SOUP.
180. INGREDIENTS.--2 knuckles of veal, 3 shins of beef, 1 large faggot
of herbs, 2 bay-leaves, 2 heads of celery, 3 onions, 3 carrots, 2 blades
of mace, 6 cloves, a teaspoonful of salt, sufficient water to cover all
the ingredients.
_Mode_.--Take the marrow from the bones; put all the ingredients in a
stock-pot, and simmer slowly for 12 hours, or more, if the meat be not
done to rags; strain it off, and put it in a very cool place; take off
all the fat, reduce the liquor in a shallow pan, by setting it over a
sharp fire, but be particular that it does not burn; boil it fast and
uncovered for 8 hours, and keep it stirred. Put it into a deep dish, and
set it by for a day. Have ready a stewpan of boiling water, place the
dish in it, and keep it boiling; stir occasionally, and when the soup is
thick and ropy, it is done. Form it into little cakes by pouring a small
quantity on to the bottom of cups or basins; when cold, turn them out on
a flannel to dry. Keep them from the air in tin canisters.
_Average cost_ of this quantity, 16s.
_Note_.--Soup can be made in 5 minutes with this, by dissolving a small
piece, about the size of a walnut, in a pint of warm water, and
simmering for 2 minutes. Vermicelli, macaroni, or other Italian pastes,
may be added.
THE LAUREL or BAY.--The leaves of this tree frequently enter
into the recipes of cookery; but they ought not to be used
without the greatest caution, and not at all unless the cook is
perfectly aware of their effects. It ought to be known, that
there are two kinds of bay-trees,--the Classic laurel, whose
leaves are comparatively harmless, and the Cherry-laurel, which
is the one whose leaves are employed in cookery. They have a
kernel-like flavour, and are used in blanc-mange, puddings,
custards &c.; but when acted upon by water, they develop prussic
acid, and, therefore, but a small number of the leaves should be
used at a time.
RABBIT SOUP.
181. INGREDIENTS.--2 large rabbits, or 3 small ones; a faggot of savoury
herbs, 1/2 head of celery, 2 carrots, 1 onion, 1 blade of mace, salt and
white pepper to taste, a little pounded mace, 1/2 pint of cream, the
yolks of 2 eggs boiled hard, the crumb of a French roll, nearly 3 quarts
of water.
_Mode_.--Make the soup with the legs and shoulders of the rabbit, and
keep the nice pieces for a dish or _entree_. Put them into warm water,
and draw the blood; when quite clean, put them in a stewpan, with a
faggot of herbs, and a teacupful, or rather more, of veal stock or
water. Simmer slowly till done through, and add the 3 quarts of water,
and boil for an hour. Take out the rabbet, pick the meat from the bones,
covering it up to keep it white; put the bones back in the liquor, add
the vegetables, and simmer for 2 hours; skim and strain, and let it
cool. Now pound the meat in a mortar, with the yolks of the eggs, and
the crumb of the roll previously soaked; rub it through a tammy, and
gradually add it to the strained liquor, and simmer for 15 minutes. Mix
arrowroot or rice-flour with the cream (say 2 dessert-spoonfuls), and
stir in the soup; bring it to a boil, and serve. This soup must be very
white, and instead of thickening it with arrowroot or rice-flour,
vermicelli or pearl barley can be boiled in a little stock, and put in 5
minutes before serving.
_Time_.--Nearly 4 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. per quart.
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