The Book of Household Management - Mrs. Isabella Beeton
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221. FISH SHOULD BE PUT INTO COLD WATER, and set on the fire to do very
gently, or the outside will break before the inner part is done. Unless
the fishes are small, they should never be put into warm water; nor
should water, either hot or cold, be poured _on_ to the fish, as it is
liable to break the skin: if it should be necessary to add a little
water whilst the fish is cooking, it ought to be poured in gently at the
side of the vessel. The fish-plate may be drawn up, to see if the fish
be ready, which may be known by its easily separating from the bone. It
should then be immediately taken out of the water, or it will become
woolly. The fish-plate should be set crossways over the kettle, to keep
hot for serving, and a clean cloth over the fish, to prevent its losing
its colour.
222. IN GARNISHING FISH, great attention is required, and plenty of
parsley, horseradish, and lemon should be used. If fried parsley be
used, it must be washed and picked, and thrown into fresh water. When
the lard or dripping boils, throw the parsley into it immediately from
the water, and instantly it will be green and crisp, and must be taken
up with a slice. When well done, and with very good sauce, fish is more
appreciated than almost any other dish. The liver and roe, in some
instances, should be placed on the dish, in order that they may be
distributed in the course of serving; but to each recipe will be
appended the proper mode of serving and garnishing.
223. IF FISH IS TO BE FRIED OR BROILED, it must be dried in a nice soft
cloth, after it is well cleaned and washed. If for frying, brush it over
with egg, and sprinkle it with some fine crumbs of bread. If done a
second time with the egg and bread, the fish will look so much the
better. If required to be very nice, a sheet of white blotting-paper
must be placed to receive it, that it may be free from all grease. It
must also be of a beautiful colour, and all the crumbs appear distinct.
Butter gives a bad colour; lard and clarified dripping are most
frequently used; but oil is the best, if the expense be no objection.
The fish should be put into the lard when boiling, and there should be a
sufficiency of this to cover it.
224. WHEN FISH IS BROILED, it must be seasoned, floured, and laid on a
very clean gridiron, which, when hot, should be rubbed with a bit of
suet, to prevent the fish from sticking. It must be broiled over a very
clear fire, that it may not taste smoky; and not too near, that it may
not be scorched.
225. IN CHOOSING FISH, it is well to remember that it is possible it may
be _fresh_, and yet not _good_. Under the head of each particular fish
in this work, are appended rules for its choice and the months when it
is in season. Nothing can be of greater consequence to a cook than to
have the fish good; as if this important course in a dinner does not
give satisfaction, it is rarely that the repast goes off well.
RECIPES.
CHAPTER VIII.
FISH.
[_Nothing is more difficult than to give the average prices of Fish,
inasmuch as a few hours of bad weather at sea will, in the space of one
day, cause such a difference in its supply, that the same fish--a turbot
for instance--which may be bought to-day for six or seven shillings,
will, to-morrow, be, in the London markets, worth, perhaps, almost as
many pounds. The average costs, therefore, which will be found appended
to each recipe, must be understood as about the average price for the
different kinds of fish, when the market is supplied upon an average,
and when the various sorts are of an average size and quality._
GENERAL RULE IN CHOOSING FISH.--_A proof of freshness and goodness in
most fishes, is their being covered with scales; for, if deficient in
this respect, it is a sign of their being stale, or having been
ill-used._]
FRIED ANCHOVIES.
226. INGREDIENTS.--1 tablespoonful of oil, 1/2 a glass of white wine,
sufficient flour to thicken; 12 anchovies.
_Mode_.--Mix the oil and wine together, with sufficient flour to make
them into a thickish paste; cleanse the anchovies, wipe them, dip them
in the paste, and fry of a nice brown colour.
_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 9d.
_Seasonable_ all the year.
_Sufficient_ for 2 persons.
[Illustration: THE ANCHOVY.]
THE ANCHOVY.--In his book of "British Fishes," Mr. Yarrell
states that "the anchovy is a common fish in the Mediterranean,
from Greece to Gibraltar, and was well known to the Greeks and
Romans, by whom the liquor prepared from it, called _garum_, was
in great estimation. Its extreme range is extended into the
Black Sea. The fishing for them is carried on during the night,
and lights are used with the nets. The anchovy is common on the
coasts of Portugal, Spain, and France. It occurs, I have no
doubt, at the Channel Islands, and has been taken on the
Hampshire coast, and in the Bristol Channel." Other fish, of
inferior quality, but resembling the real Gorgona anchovy, are
frequently sold for it, and passed off as genuine.
ANCHOVY BUTTER OR PASTE.
227. INGREDIENTS.--2 dozen anchovies, 1/2 lb. of fresh butter.
_Mode_.--Wash the anchovies thoroughly; bone and dry them, and pound
them in a mortar to a paste. Mix the butter gradually with them, and rub
the whole through a sieve. Put it by in small pots for use, and
carefully exclude the air with a bladder, as it soon changes the colour
of anchovies, besides spoiling them.
_Average cost_ for this quantity, 2s.
POTTED ANCHOVIES.
POTTED ANCHOVIES are made in the same way, by adding pounded mace,
cayenne, and nutmeg to taste.
ANCHOVY TOAST.
228. INGREDIENTS.--Toast 2 or 3 slices of bread, or, if wanted very
savoury, fry them in clarified butter, and spread on them the paste, No.
227. Made mustard, or a few grains of cayenne, may be added to the paste
before laying it on the toast.
ANCHOVY PASTE.--"When some delicate zest," says a work just
issued on the adulterations of trade, "is required to make the
plain English breakfast more palatable, many people are in the
habit of indulging in what they imagine to be anchovies. These
fish are preserved in a kind of pickling-bottle, carefully
corked down, and surrounded by a red-looking liquor, resembling
in appearance diluted clay. The price is moderate, one shilling
only being demanded for the luxury. When these anchovies are
what is termed potted, it implies that the fish have been
pounded into the consistency of a paste, and then placed in flat
pots, somewhat similar in shape to those used for pomatum. This
paste is usually eaten spread upon toast, and is said to form an
excellent _bonne bouche_, which enables gentlemen at
wine-parties to enjoy their port with redoubled gusto.
Unfortunately, in six cases out of ten, the only portion of
these preserved delicacies, that contains anything indicative of
anchovies, is the paper label pasted on the bottle or pot, on
which the word itself is printed.... All the samples of anchovy
paste, analyzed by different medical men, have been found to be
highly and vividly coloured with very large quantities of bole
Armenian." The anchovy itself, when imported, is of a dark dead
colour, and it is to make it a bright "handsome-looking sauce"
that this red earth is used.
BARBEL.
229. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of port wine, a saltspoonful of salt, 2
tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 2 sliced onions, a faggot of sweet herbs,
nutmeg and mace to taste, the juice of a lemon, 2 anchovies; 1 or 2
barbels, according to size.
_Mode_--Boil the barbels in salt and water till done; pour off some of
the water, and, to the remainder, put the ingredients mentioned above.
Simmer gently for 1/2 hour, or rather more, and strain. Put in the fish;
heat it gradually; but do not let it boil, or it will be broken.
_Time_.--Altogether 1 hour. _Sufficient_ for 4 persons.
_Seasonable_ from September to November.
[Illustration: THE BARBEL.]
THE BARBEL,--This fish takes its name from the barbs or wattels
at its mouth; and, in England, is esteemed as one of the worst
of the fresh-water fish. It was, however, formerly, if not now,
a favourite with the Jews, excellent cookers of fish. Others
would boil with it a piece of bacon, that it might have a
relish. It is to be met with from two to three or four feet
long, and is said to live to a great age. From Putney upwards,
in the Thames, some are found of large size; but they are valued
only as affording sport to the brethren of the angle.
BRILL.
230. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water; a little
vinegar.
_Mode_.--Clean the brill, cut off the fins, and rub it over with a
little lemon-juice, to preserve its whiteness. Set the fish in
sufficient cold water to cover it; throw in salt, in the above
proportions, and a little vinegar, and bring it gradually to boil;
simmer very gently till the fish is done, which will be in about 10
minutes; but the time for boiling, of course, depends entirely on the
size of the fish. Serve it on a hot napkin, and garnish with cut lemon,
parsley, horseradish, and a little lobster coral sprinkled over the
fish. Send lobster or shrimp sauce and plain melted butter to table with
it.
_Time_.--After the water boils, a small brill, 10 minutes; a large
brill, 15 to 20 minutes.
_Average cost_, from 4s. to 8s.
_Seasonable_ from August to April.
[Illustration: THE BRILL.]
THE BRILL.--This fish resembles the sole, but is broader, and
when large, is esteemed by many in a scarcely less degree than
the turbot, whilst it is much cheaper. It is a fine fish, and is
abundant in the London market.
TO CHOOSE BRILL.--The flesh of this fish, like that of turbot, should be
of a yellowish tint, and should be chosen on account of its thickness.
If the flesh has a bluish tint, it is not good.
CODFISH.
231. Cod may be boiled whole; but a large head and shoulders are quite
sufficient for a dish, and contain all that is usually helped, because,
when the thick part is done, the tail is insipid and overdone. The
latter, cut in slices, makes a very good dish for frying; or it may be
salted down and served with egg sauce and parsnips. Cod, when boiled
quite fresh, is watery; salting a little, renders it firmer.
[Illustration: THE COD.]
THE COD TRIBE.--The Jugular, characterized by bony gills, and
ventral fins before the pectoral ones, commences the second of
the Linnaean orders of fishes, and is a numerous tribe,
inhabiting only the depths of the ocean, and seldom visiting the
fresh waters. They have a smooth head, and the gill membrane has
seven rays. The body is oblong, and covered with deciduous
scales. The fins are all inclosed in skin, whilst their rays are
unarmed. The ventral fins are slender, and terminate in a point.
Their habits are gregarious, and they feed on smaller fish and
other marine animals.
COD'S HEAD AND SHOULDERS.
232. INGREDIENTS.--Sufficient water to cover the fish; 5 oz. of salt to
each gallon of water.
_Mode_.--Cleanse the fish thoroughly, and rub a little salt over the
thick part and inside of the fish, 1 or 2 hours before dressing it, as
this very much improves the flavour. Lay it in the fish-kettle, with
sufficient cold water to cover it. Be very particular not to pour the
water on the fish, as it is liable to break it, and only keep it just
simmering. If the water should boil away, add a little by pouring it in
at the side of the kettle, and not on the fish. Add salt in the above
proportion, and bring it gradually to a boil. Skim very carefully, draw
it to the side of the fire, and let it gently simmer till done. Take it
out and drain it; serve on a hot napkin, and garnish with cut lemon,
horseradish, the roe and liver. (_See_ Coloured Plate C.)
_Time_.--According to size, 1/2 an hour, more or less. _Average cost_,
from 3s. to 6s.
_Sufficient_ for 6 or 8 persons.
_Seasonable_ from November to March.
_Note_.--Oyster sauce and plain melted butter should be served with
this.
TO CHOOSE COD.--The cod should be chosen for the table when it is plump
and round near the tail, when the hollow behind the head is deep, and
when the sides are undulated as if they were ribbed. The glutinous parts
about the head lose their delicate flavour, after the fish has been
twenty-four hours out of the water. The great point by which the cod
should be judged is the firmness of its flesh; and, although the cod is
not firm when it is alive, its quality may be arrived at by pressing the
finger into the flesh. If this rises immediately, the fish is good; if
not, it is stale. Another sign of its goodness is, if the fish, when it
is cut, exhibits a bronze appearance, like the silver side of a round of
beef. When this is the case, the flesh will be firm when cooked.
Stiffness in a cod, or in any other fish, is a sure sign of freshness,
though not always of quality. Sometimes, codfish, though exhibiting
signs of rough usage, will eat much better than those with red gills, so
strongly recommended by many cookery-books. This appearance is generally
caused by the fish having been knocked about at sea, in the well-boats,
in which they are conveyed from the fishing-grounds to market.
SALT COD, COMMONLY CALLED "SALT-FISH."
233. INGREDIENTS.--Sufficient water to cover the fish.
_Mode_.--Wash the fish, and lay it all night in water, with a 1/4 pint
of vinegar. When thoroughly soaked, take it out, see that it is
perfectly clean, and put it in the fish-kettle with sufficient cold
water to cover it. Heat it gradually, but do not let it boil much, or
the fish will be hard. Skim well, and when done, drain the fish and put
it on a napkin garnished with hard-boiled eggs cut in rings.
_Time_.--About 1 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. per lb.
_Seasonable_ in the spring.
_Sufficient_ for each person, 1/4 lb.
_Note_.--Serve with egg sauce and parsnips. This is an especial dish on
Ash Wednesday.
PRESERVING COD.--Immediately as the cod are caught, their heads
are cut off. They are then opened, cleaned, and salted, when
they are stowed away in the hold of the vessel, in beds of five
or six yards square, head to tail, with a layer of salt to each
layer of fish. When they have lain in this state three or four
days, in order that the water may drain from them, they are
shifted into a different part of the vessel, and again salted.
Here they remain till the vessel is loaded, when they are
sometimes cut into thick pieces and packed in barrels for the
greater convenience of carriage.
COD SOUNDS.
Should be well soaked in salt and water, and thoroughly washed before
dressing them. They are considered a great delicacy, and may either be
broiled, fried, or boiled: if they are boiled, mix a little milk with
the water.
COD SOUNDS, EN POULE.
234. INGREDIENTS.--For forcemeat, 12 chopped oysters, 3 chopped
anchovies, 1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 1 oz. of butter, 2 eggs; seasoning
of salt, pepper, nutmeg, and mace to taste; 4 cod sounds.
_Mode_.--Make the forcemeat by mixing the ingredients well together.
Wash the sounds, and boil them in milk and water for 1/2 an hour; take
them out and let them cool. Cover each with a layer of forcemeat, roll
them up in a nice form, and skewer them. Rub over with lard, dredge with
flour, and cook them gently before the fire in a Dutch oven.
_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. per lb.
_Seasonable_ from November to March. _Sufficient_ for 4 persons.
THE SOUNDS IN CODFISH.--These are the air or swimming bladders,
by means of which the fishes are enabled to ascend or descend in
the water. In the Newfoundland fishery they are taken out
previous to incipient putrefaction, washed from their slime and
salted for exportation. The tongues are also cured and packed up
in barrels; whilst, from the livers, considerable quantities of
oil are extracted, this oil having been found possessed of the
most nourishing properties, and particularly beneficial in cases
of pulmonary affections.
COD PIE.
(_Economical_.)
I.
235. INGREDIENTS.--Any remains of cold cod, 12 oysters, sufficient
melted butter to moisten it; mashed potatoes enough to fill up the dish.
_Mode_.--Flake the fish from the bone, and carefully take away all the
skin. Lay it in a pie-dish, pour over the melted butter and oysters (or
oyster sauce, if there is any left), and cover with mashed potatoes.
Bake for 1/2 an hour, and send to table of a nice brown colour.
_Time_.--1/2 hour.
_Seasonable_ from November to March.
II.
236. INGREDIENTS.--2 slices of cod; pepper and salt to taste; 1/2 a
teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1 large blade of pounded mace, 2 oz. of
butter, 1/2 pint of stock No. 107, a paste crust (_see_ Pastry). For
sauce, 1 tablespoonful of stock, 1/4 pint of cream or milk, thickening
of flour or butter; lemon-peel chopped very fine to taste; 12 oysters.
_Mode_.--Lay the cod in salt for 4 hours, then wash it and place it in a
dish; season, and add the butter and stock; cover with the crust, and
bake for 1 hour, or rather more. Now make the sauce, by mixing the
ingredients named above; give it one boil, and pour it into the pie by a
hole made at the top of the crust, which can easily be covered by a
small piece of pastry cut and baked in any fanciful shape--such as a
leaf, or otherwise.
_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, with fresh fish, 2s. 6d.
_Seasonable_ from November to March.
_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.
_Note_.--The remains of cold fish may be used for this pie.
CURRIED COD.
237. INGREDIENTS.--2 slices of large cod, or the remains of any cold
fish; 3 oz. of butter, 1 onion sliced, a teacupful of white stock,
thickening of butter and flour, 1 small teaspoonful of curry-powder,
1/4 pint of cream, salt and cayenne to taste.
_Mode_.--Flake the fish, and fry it of a nice brown colour with the
butter and onions; put this in a stewpan, add the stock and thickening,
and simmer for 10 minutes. Stir the curry-powder into the cream; put it,
with the seasoning, to the other ingredients; give one boil, and serve.
_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, with fresh fish, 3s.
_Seasonable_ from November to March.
_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.
THE FOOD OF THE COD.--This chiefly consists of the smaller
species of the scaly tribes, shell-fish, crabs, and worms. Their
voracity is very great, and they will bite at any small body
they see moved by the water, even stones and pebbles, which are
frequently found in their stomachs. They sometimes attain a
great size, but their usual weight is from 14 to 40 lbs.
COD A LA CREME.
238. INGREDIENTS.--1 large slice of cod, 1 oz. of butter, 1 chopped
shalot, a little minced parsley, 1/4 teacupful of white stock, 1/4 pint
of milk or cream, flour to thicken, cayenne and lemon-juice to taste,
1/4 teaspoonful of powdered sugar.
_Mode_.--Boil the cod, and while hot, break it into flakes; put the
butter, shalot, parsley, and stock into a stewpan, and let them boil for
5 minutes. Stir in sufficient flour to thicken, and pour to it the milk
or cream. Simmer for 10 minutes, add the cayenne and sugar, and, when
liked, a little lemon-juice. Put the fish in the sauce to warm
gradually, but do not let it boil. Serve in a dish garnished with
croutons.
_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, with cream, 2s.
_Seasonable_ from November to March.
_Sufficient_ for 3 persons.
_Note_.--The remains of fish from the preceding day answer very well for
this dish.
COD A LA BECHAMEL.
239. INGREDIENTS.--Any remains of cold cod, 4 tablespoonfuls of bechamel
(_see_ Sauces), 2 oz. butter; seasoning to taste of pepper and salt;
fried bread, a few bread crumbs.
_Mode_.--Flake the cod carefully, leaving out all skin and bone; put the
bechamel in a stewpan with the butter, and stir it over the fire till
the latter is melted; add seasoning, put in the fish, and mix it well
with the sauce. Make a border of fried bread round the dish, lay in the
fish, sprinkle over with bread crumbs, and baste with butter. Brown
either before the fire or with a salamander, and garnish with toasted
bread cut in fanciful shapes.
_Time_.--1/2 hour.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the fish, 6d.
THE HABITAT OF THE COD.--This fish is found only in the seas of
the northern parts of the world, between the latitudes of 45 deg.
and 66 deg.. Its great rendezvous are the sandbanks of Newfoundland,
Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, and New England. These places are its
favourite resorts; for there it is able to obtain great
quantities of worms, a food peculiarly grateful to it. Another
cause of its attachment to these places has been said to be on
account of the vicinity to the Polar seas, where it returns to
spawn. Few are taken north of Iceland, and the shoals never
reach so far south as the Straits of Gibraltar. Many are taken
on the coasts of Norway, in the Baltic, and off the Orkneys,
which, prior to the discovery of Newfoundland, formed one of the
principal fisheries. The London market is supplied by those
taken between the Dogger Bank, the Well Bank, and Cromer, on the
east coast of England.
COD A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.
240. INGREDIENTS.--2 slices of cod, 1/4 lb. of butter, a little chopped
shalot and parsley; pepper to taste, 1/4 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg,
or rather less, when the flavour is not liked; the juice of 1/4 lemon.
_Mode_.--Boil the cod, and either leave it whole, or, what is still
better, flake it from the bone, and take off the skin. Put it into a
stewpan with the butter, parsley, shalot, pepper, and nutmeg. Melt the
butter gradually, and be very careful that it does not become like oil.
When all is well mixed and thoroughly hot, add the lemon-juice, and
serve.
_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d.; with remains of cold fish,
5d.
_Seasonable_ from November to March.
_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.
_Note_.--Cod that has been left will do for this.
THE SEASON FOR FISHING COD.--The best season for catching cod is
from the beginning of February to the end of April; and although
each fisherman engaged in taking them, catches no more than one
at a time, an expert hand will sometimes take four hundred in a
day. The employment is excessively fatiguing, from the weight of
the fish as well as from the coldness of the climate.
COD A L'ITALIENNE.
241. INGREDIENTS.--2 slices of crimped cod, 1 shalot, 1 slice of ham
minced very fine, 1/2 pint of white stock, No. 107; when liked, 1/2
teacupful of cream; salt to taste; a few drops of garlic vinegar, a
little lemon-juice, 1/2 teaspoonful of powdered sugar.
_Mode_.--Chop the shalots, mince the ham very fine, pour on the stock,
and simmer for 15 minutes. If the colour should not be good, add cream
in the above proportion, and strain it through a fine sieve; season it,
and put in the vinegar, lemon-juice, and sugar. Now boil the cod, take
out the middle bone, and skin it; put it on the dish without breaking,
and pour the sauce over it.
_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 3s. 6d., with fresh fish.
_Seasonable_ from November to March.
_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.
THE FECUNDITY OF THE COD.--In our preceding remarks on the
natural history of fishes, we have spoken of the amazing
fruitfulness of this fish; but in this we see one more instance
of the wise provision which Nature has made for supplying the
wants of man. So extensive has been the consumption of this
fish, that it is surprising that it has not long ago become
extinct; which would certainly have been the case, had it not
been for its wonderful powers of reproduction. "So early as
1368," says Dr. Cloquet, "the inhabitants of Amsterdam had
dispatched fishermen to the coast of Sweden; and in the first
quarter of 1792, from the ports of France only, 210 vessels went
out to the cod-fisheries. Every year, however, upwards of 10,000
vessels, of all nations, are employed in this trade, and bring
into the commercial world more than 40,000,000 of salted and
dried cod. If we add to this immense number, the havoc made
among the legions of cod by the larger scaly tribes of the great
deep, and take into account the destruction to which the young
are exposed by sea-fowls and other inhabitants of the seas,
besides the myriads of their eggs destroyed by accident, it
becomes a miracle to find that such mighty multitudes of them
are still in existence, and ready to continue the exhaustless
supply. Yet it ceases to excite our wonder when we remember that
the female can every year give birth to more than 9,000,000 at a
time."
BAKED CARP.
242. INGREDIENTS--1 carp, forcemeat, bread crumbs, 1 oz. butter, 1/2
pint of stock No. 105, 1/2 pint of port wine, 6 anchovies, 2 onions
sliced, 1 bay-leaf, a faggot of sweet herbs, flour to thicken, the juice
of 1 lemon; cayenne and salt to taste; 1/2 teaspoonful of powdered
sugar.
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