The Book of Household Management - Mrs. Isabella Beeton
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_Time_.--3 or 4 minutes.
_Average cost_. Seldom bought.
_Seasonable_ from March to July.
_Sufficient_, 3 for each person.
[Illustration: THE GUDGEON.]
THE GUDGEON.--This is a fresh-water fish, belonging to the carp
genus, and is found in placid streams and lakes. It was highly
esteemed by the Greeks, and was, at the beginning of supper,
served fried at Rome. It abounds both in France and Germany; and
is both excellent and numerous in some of the rivers of England.
Its flesh is firm, well-flavoured, and easily digested.
GURNET, or GURNARD.
262. INGREDIENTS.--1 gurnet, 6 oz. of salt to each gallon of water.
_Mode_.--Cleanse the fish thoroughly, and cut off the fins; have ready
some boiling water, with salt in the above proportion; put the fish in,
and simmer very gently for 1/2 hour. Parsley and butter, or anchovy
sauce, should be served with it.
_Time_.--1/2 hour.
_Average cost_. Seldom bought.
_Seasonable_ from October to March, but in perfection in October.
_Sufficient_, a middling sized one for 2 persons.
_Note_.--This fish is frequently stuffed with forcemeat and baked.
[Illustration: THE GURNET.]
THE GURNET.-"If I be not ashamed of my soldiers, I am a souced
gurnet," says Falstaff; which shows that this fish has been long
known in England. It is very common on the British coasts, and
is an excellent fish as food.
BAKED HADDOCKS.
263. INGREDIENTS.--A nice forcemeat (_see_ Forcemeats), butter to taste,
egg and bread crumbs.
_Mode_.--Scale and clean the fish, without cutting it open much; put in
a nice delicate forcemeat, and sew up the slit. Brush it over with egg,
sprinkle over bread crumbs, and baste frequently with butter. Garnish
with parsley and cut lemon, and serve with a nice brown gravy, plain
melted butter, or anchovy sauce. The egg and bread crumbs can be
omitted, and pieces of butter placed over the fish.
_Time_.--Large haddock, 3/4 hour; moderate size, 1/4 hour.
_Seasonable_ from August to February.
_Average cost_, from 9d. upwards.
_Note_.--Haddocks may be filleted, rubbed over with egg and bread
crumbs, and fried a nice brown; garnish with crisped parsley.
[Illustration: THE HADDOCK.]
THE HADDOCK.--This fish migrates in immense shoals, and arrives
on the Yorkshire coast about the middle of winter. It is an
inhabitant of the northern seas of Europe, but does not enter
the Baltic, and is not known in the Mediterranean. On each side
of the body, just beyond the gills, it has a dark spot, which
superstition asserts to be the impressions of the finger and
thumb of St. Peter, when taking the tribute money out of a fish
of this species.
BOILED HADDOCK.
264. INGREDIENTS.--Sufficient water to cover the fish; 1/4 lb. of salt
to each gallon of water.
_Mode_.--Scrape the fish, take out the inside, wash it thoroughly, and
lay it in a kettle, with enough water to cover it and salt in the above
proportion. Simmer gently from 15 to 20 minutes, or rather more, should
the fish be very large. For small haddocks, fasten the tails in their
mouths, and put them into boiling water. 10 to 15 minutes will cook
them. Serve with plain melted butter, or anchovy sauce.
_Time_.--Large haddock, 1/2 hour; small, 1/4 hour, or rather less.
_Average cost_, from 9d. upwards.
_Seasonable_ from August to February.
WEIGHT OF THE HADDOCK.--The haddock seldom grows to any great
size. In general, they do not weigh more than two or three
pounds, or exceed ten or twelve inches in size. Such are
esteemed very delicate eating; but they have been caught three
feet long, when their flesh is coarse.
DRIED HADDOCK.
I.
265. Dried haddock should be gradually warmed through, either before or
over a nice clear fire. Hub a little piece of butter over, just before
sending it to table.
II.
266. INGREDIENTS.--1 large thick haddock, 2 bay-leaves, 1 small bunch of
savoury herbs, not forgetting parsley, a little butter and pepper;
boiling water.
_Mode_.--Cut up the haddock into square pieces, make a basin hot by
means of hot water, which pour out. Lay in the fish, with the bay-leaves
and herbs; cover with boiling water; put a plate over to keep in the
steam, and let it remain for 10 minutes. Take out the slices, put them
in a hot dish, rub over with butter and pepper, and serve.
_Time_.--10 minutes. _Seasonable_ at any time, but best in winter.
THE FINNAN HADDOCK.--This is the common haddock cured and dried,
and takes its name from the fishing-village of Findhorn, near
Aberdeen, in Scotland, where the art has long attained to
perfection. The haddocks are there hung up for a day or two in
the smoke of peat, when they are ready for cooking, and are
esteemed, by the Scotch, a great delicacy. In London, an
imitation of them is made by washing the fish over with
pyroligneous acid, and hanging it up in a dry place for a few
days.
RED HERRINGS, or YARMOUTH BLOATERS.
267. The best way to cook these is to make incisions in the skin across
the fish, because they do not then require to be so long on the fire,
and will be far better than when cut open. The hard roe makes a nice
relish by pounding it in a mortar, with a little anchovy, and spreading
it on toast. If very dry, soak in warm water 1 hour before dressing.
THE RED HERRING.--_Red_ herrings lie twenty-four hours in the
brine, when they are taken out and hung up in a smoking-house
formed to receive them. A brushwood fire is then kindled beneath
them, and when they are sufficiently smoked and dried, they are
put into barrels for carriage.
BAKED WHITE HERRINGS.
268. INGREDIENTS.--12 herrings, 4 bay-leaves, 12 cloves, 12 allspice, 2
small blades of mace, cayenne pepper and salt to taste, sufficient
vinegar to fill up the dish.
_Mode_.--Take the herrings, cut off the heads, and gut them. Put them in
a pie-dish, heads and tails alternately, and, between each layer,
sprinkle over the above ingredients. Cover the fish with the vinegar,
and bake for 1/2 hour, but do not use it till quite cold. The herrings
may be cut down the front, the backbone taken out, and closed again.
Sprats done in this way are very delicious.
_Time_.--1/2 an hour.
_Average cost_, 1d. each.
TO CHOOSE THE HERRING.--The more scales this fish has, the surer the
sign of its freshness. It should also have a bright and silvery look;
but if red about the head, it is a sign that it has been dead for some
time.
[Illustration: THE HERRING.]
THE HERRING.--The herring tribe are found in the greatest
abundance in the highest northern latitudes, where they find a
quiet retreat, and security from their numerous enemies. Here
they multiply beyond expression, and, in shoals, come forth from
their icy region to visit other portions of the great deep. In
June they are found about Shetland, whence they proceed down to
the Orkneys, where they divide, and surround the islands of
Great Britain and Ireland. The principal British
herring-fisheries are off the Scotch and Norfolk coasts; and the
fishing is always carried on by means of nets, which are usually
laid at night; for, if stretched by day, they are supposed to
frighten the fish away. The moment the herring is taken out of
the water it dies. Hence the origin of the common saying, "dead
as a herring."
KEGEREE.
269. INGREDIENTS.--Any cold fish, 1 teacupful of boiled rice, 1 oz. of
butter, 1 teaspoonful of mustard, 2 soft-boiled eggs, salt and cayenne
to taste.
_Mode_.--Pick the fish carefully from the bones, mix with the other
ingredients, and serve very hot. The quantities may be varied according
to the amount of fish used.
_Time_.--1/4 hour after the rice is boiled.
_Average cost_, 5d., exclusive of the fish.
TO BOIL LOBSTERS.
270. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water.
_Mode_.--Buy the lobsters alive, and choose those that are heavy and
full of motion, which is an indication of their freshness. When the
shell is incrusted, it is a sign they are old: medium-sized lobsters are
the best. Have ready a stewpan of boiling water, salted in the above
proportion; put in the lobster, and keep it boiling quickly from 20
minutes to 3/4 hour, according to its size, and do not forget to skim
well. If it boils too long, the meat becomes thready, and if not done
enough, the spawn is not red: this must be obviated by great attention.
Hub the shell over with a little butter or sweet oil, which wipe off
again.
_Time_.--Small lobster, 20 minutes to 1/2 hour; large ditto, 1/2 to 1/3
hour.
_Average cost_, medium size, 1s. 6d. to 2s. 6d.
_Seasonable_ all the year, but best from March to October.
TO CHOOSE LOBSTERS.--This shell-fish, if it has been cooked alive, as it
ought to have been, will have a stiffness in the tail, which, if gently
raised, will return with a spring. Care, however, must be taken in thus
proving it; for if the tail is pulled straight out, it will not return;
when the fish might be pronounced inferior, which, in reality, may not
be the case. In order to be good, lobsters should be weighty for their
bulk; if light, they will be watery; and those of the medium size, are
always the best. Small-sized lobsters are cheapest, and answer very well
for sauce. In boiling lobsters, the appearance of the shell will be much
improved by rubbing over it a little butter or salad-oil on being
immediately taken from the pot.
[Illustration: THE LOBSTER.]
THE LOBSTER.--This is one of the crab tribe, and is found on
most of the rocky coasts of Great Britain. Some are caught with
the hand, but the larger number in pots, which serve all the
purposes of a trap, being made of osiers, and baited with
garbage. They are shaped like a wire mousetrap; so that when the
lobsters once enter them, they cannot get out again. They are
fastened to a cord and sunk in the sea, and their place marked
by a buoy. The fish is very prolific, and deposits of its eggs
in the sand, where they are soon hatched. On the coast of
Norway, they are very abundant, and it is from there that the
English metropolis is mostly supplied. They are rather
indigestible, and, as a food, not so nurtritive as they are
generally supposed to be.
HOT LOBSTER.
271. INGREDIENTS.--1 lobster, 2 oz. of butter, grated nutmeg; salt,
pepper, and pounded mace, to taste; bread crumbs, 2 eggs.
_Mode_.--Pound the meat of the lobster to a smooth paste with the butter
and seasoning, and add a few bread crumbs. Beat the eggs, and make the
whole mixture into the form of a lobster; pound the spawn, and sprinkle
over it. Bake 1/4 hour, and just before serving, lay over it the tail
and body shell, with the small claws underneath, to resemble a lobster.
_Time_.--1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
LOBSTER SALAD.
272. INGREDIENTS.--1 hen lobster, lettuces, endive, small salad
(whatever is in season), a little chopped beetroot, 2 hard-boiled eggs,
a few slices of cucumber. For dressing, equal quantities of oil and
vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of made mustard, the yolks of 2 eggs; cayenne and
salt to taste; 3 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce. These ingredients should
be mixed perfectly smooth, and form a creamy-looking sauce.
_Mode_.--Wash the salad, and thoroughly dry it by shaking it in a cloth.
Cut up the lettuces and endive, pour the dressing on them, and lightly
throw in the small salad. Mix all well together with the pickings from
the body of the lobster; pick the meat from the shell, cut it up into
nice square pieces, put half in the salad, the other half reserve for
garnishing. Separate the yolks from the whites of 2 hard-boiled eggs;
chop the whites very fine, and rub the yolks through a sieve, and
afterwards the coral from the inside. Arrange the salad lightly on a
glass dish, and garnish, first with a row of sliced cucumber, then with
the pieces of lobster, the yolks and whites of the eggs, coral, and
beetroot placed alternately, and arranged in small separate bunches, so
that the colours contrast nicely.
_Average cost_, 3s. 6d. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ from April to October; may be had all the year, but salad
is scarce and expensive in winter.
_Note_.--A few crayfish make a pretty garnishing to lobster salad.
THE SHELL OF THE LOBSTER.--Like the others of its tribe, the
lobster annually casts its shell. Previously to its throwing off
the old one, it appears sick, languid, and restless, but in the
course of a few days it is entirely invested in its new coat of
armour. Whilst it is in a defenceless state, however, it seeks
some lonely place, where it may lie undisturbed, and escape the
horrid fate of being devoured by some of its own species who
have the advantage of still being encased in their mail.
LOBSTER (a la Mode Francaise).
273. INGREDIENTS.--1 lobster, 4 tablespoonfuls of white stock, 2
tablespoonfuls of cream, pounded mace, and cayenne to taste; bread
crumbs.
_Mode_.--Pick the meat from the shell, and cut it up into small square
pieces; put the stock, cream, and seasoning into a stewpan, add the
lobster, and let it simmer gently for 6 minutes. Serve it in the shell,
which must be nicely cleaned, and have a border of puff-paste; cover it
with bread crumbs, place small pieces of butter over, and brown before
the fire, or with a salamander.
_Time_.--1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
CELERITY OF THE LOBSTER.--In its element, the lobster is able to
run with great speed upon its legs, or small claws, and, if
alarmed, to spring, tail foremost, to a considerable distance,
"even," it is said, "with the swiftness of a bird flying."
Fishermen have seen some of them pass about thirty feet with a
wonderful degree of swiftness. When frightened, they will take
their spring, and, like a chamois of the Alps, plant themselves
upon the very spot upon which they designed to hold themselves.
LOBSTER CURRY (an Entree).
274. INGREDIENTS.--1 lobster, 2 onions, 1 oz. butter, 1 tablespoonful of
curry-powder, 1/2 pint of medium stock, No. 105, the juice of 1/2 lemon.
_Mode_.--Pick the meat from the shell, and cut it into nice square
pieces; fry the onions of a pale brown in the butter, stir in the
curry-powder and stock, and simmer till it thickens, when put in the
lobster; stew the whole slowly for 1/2 hour, and stir occasionally; and
just before sending to table, put in the lemon-juice. Serve boiled rice
with it, the same as for other curries.
_Time_.--Altogether, 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 3s.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
LOBSTER CUTLETS (an Entree).
275. INGREDIENTS.--1 large hen lobster, 1 oz. fresh butter, 1/2
saltspoonful of salt, pounded mace, grated nutmeg, cayenne and white
pepper to taste, egg, and bread crumbs.
_Mode_.--Pick the meat from the shell, and pound it in a mortar with the
butter, and gradually add the mace and seasoning, well mixing the
ingredients; beat all to a smooth paste, and add a little of the spawn;
divide the mixture into pieces of an equal size, and shape them like
cutlets. They should not be very thick. Brush them over with egg, and
sprinkle with bread crumbs, and stick a short piece of the small claw in
the top of each; fry them of a nice brown in boiling lard, and drain
them before the fire, on a sieve reversed; arrange them nicely on a
dish, and pour bechamel in the middle, but not over the cutlets.
_Time_.--About 8 minutes after the cutlets are made.
_Average cost_ for this dish, 2s. 9d.
_Seasonable_ all the year. _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
ANCIENT MODE OF COOKING THE LOBSTER.--When this fish was to be
served for the table, among the ancients, it was opened
lengthwise, and filled with a gravy composed of coriander and
pepper. It was then put on the gridiron and slowly cooked,
whilst it was being basted with the same kind of gravy with
which the flesh had become impregnated.
TO DRESS LOBSTERS.
276. When the lobster is boiled, rub it over with a little salad-oil,
which wipe off again; separate the body from the tail, break off the
great claws, and crack them at the joints, without injuring the meat;
split the tail in halves, and arrange all neatly in a dish, with the
body upright in the middle, and garnish with parsley. (_See_ Coloured
Plate, H.)
LOBSTER PATTIES (an Entree).
277. INGREDIENTS.--Minced lobster, 4 tablespoonfuls of bechamel, 6 drops
of anchovy sauce, lemon-juice, cayenne to taste.
_Mode_.--Line the patty-pans with puff-paste, and put into each a small
piece of bread: cover with paste, brush over with egg, and bake of a
light colour. Take as much lobster as is required, mince the meat very
fine, and add the above ingredients; stir it over the fire for 6
minutes; remove the lids of the patty-cases, take out the bread, fill
with the mixture, and replace the covers.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
LOCAL ATTACHMENT OF THE LOBSTER.--It is said that the attachment
of this animal is strong to some particular parts of the sea, a
circumstance celebrated in the following lines:--
"Nought like their home the constant lobsters prize,
And foreign shores and seas unknown despise.
Though cruel hands the banish'd wretch expel,
And force the captive from his native cell,
He will, if freed, return with anxious care,
Find the known rock, and to his home repair;
No novel customs learns in different seas,
But wonted food and home-taught manners please."
POTTED LOBSTER.
278. INGREDIENTS.--2 lobsters; seasoning to taste, of nutmeg, pounded
mace, white pepper, and salt; 1/4 lb. of butter, 3 or 4 bay-leaves.
_Mode_.--Take out the meat carefully from the shell, but do not cut it
up. Put some butter at the bottom of a dish, lay in the lobster as
evenly as possible, with the bay-leaves and seasoning between. Cover
with butter, and bake for 3/4 hour in a gentle oven. When done, drain
the whole on a sieve, and lay the pieces in potting-jars, with the
seasoning about them. When cold, pour over it clarified butter, and, if
very highly seasoned, it will keep some time.
_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 4s. 4d.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Note_.--Potted lobster may be used cold, or as _fricassee_ with cream
sauce.
How the Lobster Feeds.--The pincers of the lobster's large claws
are furnished with nobs, and those of the other, are always
serrated. With the former, it keeps firm hold of the stalks of
submarine plants, and with the latter, it cuts and minces its
food with great dexterity. The knobbed, or numb claw, as it is
called by fishermen, is sometimes on the right and sometimes on
the left, indifferently.
BAKED MACKEREL.
279. INGREDIENTS.--4 middling-sized mackerel, a nice delicate forcemeat
(_see_ Forcemeats), 3 oz. of butter; pepper and salt to taste.
_Mode_.--Clean the fish, take out the roes, and fill up with forcemeat,
and sew up the slit. Flour, and put them in a dish, heads and tails
alternately, with the roes; and, between each layer, put some little
pieces of butter, and pepper and salt. Bake for 1/2 an hour, and either
serve with plain melted butter or a _maitre d'hotel_ sauce.
_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s. 10d.
_Seasonable_ from April to July.
_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.
_Note_.--Baked mackerel may be dressed in the same way as baked herrings
(_see_ No. 268), and may also be stewed in wine.
WEIGHT OF THE MACKEREL.--The greatest weight of this fish seldom
exceeds 2 lbs., whilst their ordinary length runs between 14 and
20 inches. They die almost immediately after they are taken from
their element, and, for a short time, exhibit a phosphoric
light.
BOILED MACKEREL.
280. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water.
_Mode_.--Cleanse the inside of the fish thoroughly, and lay it in the
kettle with sufficient water to cover it with salt as above; bring it
gradually to boil, skim well, and simmer gently till done; dish them on
a hot napkin, heads and tails alternately, and garnish with fennel.
Fennel sauce and plain melted butter are the usual accompaniments to
boiled mackerel; but caper or anchovy sauce is sometimes served with it.
(_See_ Coloured Plate, F.)
_Time_.--After the water boils, 10 minutes; for large mackerel, allow
more time.
_Average cost_, from 4d.
_Seasonable_ from April to July.
_Note_.--When variety is desired, fillet the mackerel, boil it, and pour
over parsley and butter; send some of this, besides, in a tureen.
BROILED MACKEREL.
281. INGREDIENTS.--Pepper and salt to taste, a small quantity of oil.
_Mode_.--Mackerel should never be washed when intended to be broiled,
but merely wiped very clean and dry, after taking out the gills and
insides. Open the back, and put in a little pepper, salt, and oil; broil
it over a clear fire, turn it over on both sides, and also on the back.
When sufficiently cooked, the flesh can be detached from the bone, which
will be in about 15 minutes for a small mackerel. Chop a little parsley,
work it up in the butter, with pepper and salt to taste, and a squeeze
of lemon-juice, and put it in the back. Serve before the butter is quite
melted, with a _maitre d'hotel_ sauce in a tureen.
_Time_.--Small mackerel 15 minutes. _Average cost_, from 4d.
_Seasonable_ from April to July.
[Illustration: THE MACKEREL.]
THE MACKEREL.--This is not only one of the most
elegantly-formed, but one of the most beautifully-coloured
fishes, when taken out of the sea, that we have. Death, in some
degree, impairs the vivid splendour of its colours; but it does
not entirely obliterate them. It visits the shores of Great
Britain in countless shoals, appearing about March, off the
Land's End; in the bays of Devonshire, about April; off Brighton
in the beginning of May; and on the coast of Suffolk about the
beginning of June. In the Orkneys they are seen till August; but
the greatest fishery is on the west coasts of England.
TO CHOOSE MACKEREL.--In choosing this fish, purchasers should, to a
great extent, be regulated by the brightness of its appearance. If it
have a transparent, silvery hue, the flesh is good; but if it be red
about the head, it is stale.
FILLETS OF MACKEREL.
282. INGREDIENTS.--2 large mackerel, 1 oz. butter, 1 small bunch of
chopped herbs, 3 tablespoonfuls of medium stock, No. 105, 3
tablespoonfuls of bechamel (_see_ Sauces); salt, cayenne, and
lemon-juice to taste.
_Mode_.--Clean the fish, and fillet it; scald the herbs, chop them fine,
and put them with the butter and stock into a stewpan. Lay in the
mackerel, and simmer very gently for 10 minutes; take them out, and put
them on a hot dish. Dredge in a little flour, add the other ingredients,
give one boil, and pour it over the mackerel.
_Time_.--20 minutes. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s. 6d.
_Seasonable_ from April to July.
_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.
_Note_.--Fillets of mackerel may be covered with egg and bread crumbs,
and fried of a nice brown. Serve with _maitre d'hotel_ sauce and plain
melted butter.
THE VORACITY OF THE MACKEREL.--The voracity of this fish is very
great, and, from their immense numbers, they are bold in
attacking objects of which they might, otherwise, be expected to
have a wholesome dread. Pontoppidan relates an anecdote of a
sailor belonging to a ship lying in one of the harbours on the
coast of Norway, who, having gone into the sea to bathe, was
suddenly missed by his companions; in the course of a few
minutes, however, he was seen on the surface, with great numbers
of mackerel clinging to him by their mouths. His comrades
hastened in a boat to his assistance; but when they had struck
the fishes from him and got him up, they found he was so
severely bitten, that he shortly afterward expired.
PICKLED MACKEREL.
283. INGREDIENTS.--12 peppercorns, 2 bay-leaves, 1/2 pint of vinegar, 4
mackerel.
_Mode_.--Boil the mackerel as in the recipe No. 282, and lay them in a
dish; take half the liquor they were boiled in; add as much vinegar,
peppercorns, and bay-leaves; boil for 10 minutes, and when cold, pour
over the fish.
_Time_.--1/2 hour.
_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.
MACKEREL GARUM.--This brine, so greatly esteemed by the
ancients, was manufactured from various kinds of fishes. When
mackerel was employed, a few of them were placed in a small
vase, with a large quantity of salt, which was well stirred, and
then left to settle for some hours. On the following day, this
was put into an earthen pot, which was uncovered, and placed in
a situation to get the rays of the sun. At the end of two or
three months, it was hermetically sealed, after having had added
to it a quantity of old wine, equal to one third of the mixture.
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