The Book of Household Management - Mrs. Isabella Beeton
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SALMON CUTLETS.
306. Cut the slices 1 inch thick, and season them with pepper and salt;
butter a sheet of white paper, lay each slice on a separate piece, with
their ends twisted; broil gently over a clear fire, and serve with
anchovy or caper sauce. When higher seasoning is required, add a few
chopped herbs and a little spice.
_Time_.--5 to 10 minutes.
SALMON A LA GENEVESE.
307. INGREDIENTS.--2 slices of salmon, 2 chopped shalots, a little
parsley, a small bunch of herbs, 2 bay-leaves, 2 carrots, pounded mace,
pepper and salt to taste, 4 tablespoonfuls of Madeira, 1/2 pint of white
stock (No. 107), thickening of butter and flour, 1 teaspoonful of
essence of anchovies, the juice of 1 lemon, cayenne and salt to taste.
_Mode_.--Rub the bottom of a stewpan over with butter, and put in the
shalots, herbs, bay-leaves, carrots, mace, and seasoning; stir them for
10 minutes over a clear fire, and add the Madeira or sherry; simmer
gently for 1/2 hour, and strain through a sieve over the fish, which
stew in this gravy. As soon as the fish is sufficiently cooked, take
away all the liquor, except a little to keep the salmon moist, and put
it into another stewpan; add the stock, thicken with butter and flour,
and put in the anchovies, lemon-juice, cayenne, and salt; lay the salmon
on a hot dish, pour over it part of the sauce, and serve the remainder
in a tureen.
_Time_.--1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 3s. 6d.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
PICKLED SALMON.
308. INGREDIENTS.--Salmon, 1/2 oz. of whole pepper, 1/2 oz. of whole
allspice, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 2 bay-leaves, equal quantities of
vinegar and the liquor in which the fish was boiled.
_Mode_.--After the fish comes from table, lay it in a nice dish with a
cover to it, as it should be excluded from the air, and take away the
bone; boil the liquor and vinegar with the other ingredients for 10
minutes, and let it stand to get cold; pour it over the salmon, and in
12 hours this will be fit for the table.
_Time_.--10 minutes.
TO CURE SALMON.--This process consists in splitting the fish,
rubbing it with salt, and then putting it into pickle in tubs
provided for the purpose. Here it is kept for about six weeks,
when it is taken out, pressed and packed in casks, with layers
of salt.
POTTED SALMON.
309. INGREDIENTS.--Salmon; pounded mace, cloves, and pepper to taste; 3
bay-leaves, 1/4 lb. butter.
_Mode_.--Skin the salmon, and clean it thoroughly by wiping with a cloth
(water would spoil it); cut it into square pieces, which rub with salt;
let them remain till thoroughly drained, then lay them in a dish with
the other ingredients, and bake. When quite done, drain them from the
gravy, press into pots for use, and, when cold, pour over it clarified
butter.
_Time_.--1/2 hour.
AN AVERSION IN THE SALMON.--The salmon is said to have an
aversion to anything red; hence, fishermen engaged in catching
it do not wear jackets or caps of that colour. Pontoppidan also
says, that it has an abhorrence of carrion, and if any happens
to be thrown into the places it haunts, it immediately forsakes
them. The remedy adopted for this in Norway, is to throw into
the polluted water a lighted torch. As food, salmon, when in
perfection, is one of the most delicious and nutritive of our
fish.
BAKED SEA-BREAM.
310. INGREDIENTS.--1 bream. Seasoning to taste of salt, pepper, and
cayenne; 1/4 lb. of butter.
_Mode_.--Well wash the bream, but do not remove the scales, and wipe
away all moisture with a nice dry cloth. Season it inside and out with
salt, pepper, and cayenne, and lay it in a baking-dish. Place the
butter, in small pieces, upon the fish, and bake for rather more than
1/2 an hour. To stuff this fish before baking, will be found a great
improvement.
_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 an hour.
_Seasonable_ in summer.
[Illustration: THE SEA-BREAM.]
_Note_.--This fish may be broiled over a nice clear fire, and served
with a good brown gravy or white sauce, or it may be stewed in wine.
THE SEA-BREAM.--This is an abundant fish in Cornwall, and it is
frequently found in the fish-market of Hastings during the
summer months, but it is not in much esteem.
MR. YARRELL'S RECIPE.
"When thoroughly cleansed, the fish should be wiped dry, but
none of the scales should be taken off. In this state it should
be broiled, turning it often, and if the skin cracks, flour it a
little to keep the outer case entire. When on table, the whole
skin and scales turn off without difficulty, and the muscle
beneath, saturated in its own natural juices, which the outside
covering has retained, will be of good flavour."
TO DRESS SHAD.
311. INGREDIENTS.--1 shad, oil, pepper, and salt.
_Mode_.--Scale, empty and wash the fish carefully, and make two or three
incisions across the back. Season it with pepper and salt, and let it
remain in oil for 1/2 hour. Broil it on both sides over a clear fire,
and serve with caper sauce. This fish is much esteemed by the French,
and by them is considered excellent.
_Time_.--Nearly 1 hour.
_Average cost_.--Seldom bought.
_Seasonable_ from April to June.
[Illustration: THE SHAD.]
THE SHAD.--This is a salt-water fish, but is held in little
esteem. It enters our rivers to spawn in May, and great numbers
of them are taken opposite the Isle of Dogs, in the Thames.
POTTED SHRIMPS.
312. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of shelled shrimps, 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 1
blade of pounded mace, cayenne to taste; when liked, a little nutmeg.
_Mode_.--Have ready a pint of picked shrimps, and put them, with the
other ingredients, into a stewpan; let them heat gradually in the
butter, but do not let it boil. Pour into small pots, and when cold,
cover with melted butter, and carefully exclude the air.
_Time_.--1/4 hour to soak in the butter.
_Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s. 3d.
BUTTERED PRAWNS OR SHRIMPS.
313. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of picked prawns or shrimps, 3/4 pint of stock
No. 104, thickening of butter and flour; salt, cayenne, and nutmeg to
taste.
_Mode_.--Pick the prawns or shrimps, and put them in a stewpan with the
stock; add a thickening of butter and flour; season, and simmer gently
for 3 minutes. Serve on a dish garnished with fried bread or toasted
sippets. Cream sauce may be substituted for the gravy.
_Time_.--3 minutes.
_Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s. 4d.
[Illustration: THE SHRIMP.]
THE SHRIMP.--This shell-fish is smaller than the prawn, and is
greatly relished in London as a delicacy. It inhabits most of
the sandy shores of Europe, and the Isle of Wight is especially
famous for them.
BOILED SKATE.
314. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water.
_Mode_.--Cleanse and skin the skate, lay it in a fish-kettle, with
sufficient water to cover it, salted in the above proportion. Let it
simmer very gently till done; then dish it on a hot napkin, and serve
with shrimp, lobster, or caper sauce.
_Time_.--According to size, from 1/2 to 1 hour. _Average cost_, 4d. per
lb.
_Seasonable_ from August to April.
CRIMPED SKATE.
315. INGREDIENTS.--1/8 lb. of salt to each gallon of water.
_Mode_.--Clean, skin, and cut the fish into slices, which roll and tie
round with string. Have ready some water highly salted, put in the fish,
and boil till it is done. Drain well, remove the string, dish on a hot
napkin, and serve with the same sauces as above. Skate should never be
eaten out of season, as it is liable to produce diarrhoea and other
diseases. It may be dished without a napkin, and the sauce poured over.
_Time_.--About 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d. per lb.
_Seasonable_ from August to April.
TO CHOOSE SKATE.--This fish should be chosen for its firmness, breadth,
and thickness, and should have a creamy appearance. When crimped, it
should not be kept longer than a day or two, as all kinds of crimped
fish soon become sour.
[Illustration: THORNBACK SKATE.]
THE SKATE.--This is one of the ray tribe, and is extremely
abundant and cheap in the fishing towns of England. The flesh is
white, thick, and nourishing; but, we suppose, from its being so
plentiful, it is esteemed less than it ought to be on account of
its nutritive properties, and the ease with which it is
digested. It is much improved by crimping; in which state it is
usually sold in London. The THORNBACK differs from the true
skate by having large spines in its back, of which the other is
destitute. It is taken in great abundance during the spring and
summer months, but its flesh is not so good as it is in
November. It is, in regard to quality, inferior to that of the
true skate.
SKATE WITH CAPER SAUCE (a la Francaise)
316. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 slices of skate, 1/2 pint of vinegar, 2 oz. of
salt, 1/2 teaspoonful of pepper, 1 sliced onion, a small bunch of
parsley, 2 bay-leaves, 2 or 3 sprigs of thyme, sufficient water to cover
the fish.
_Mode_.--Put in a fish-kettle all the above ingredients, and simmer the
skate in them till tender. When it is done, skin it neatly, and pour
over it some of the liquor in which it has been boiling. Drain it, put
it on a hot dish, pour over it caper sauce, and send some of the latter
to table in a tureen.
_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 4d. per lb.
_Seasonable_ from August to April.
_Note_.--Skate may also be served with onion sauce, or parsley and
butter.
SMALL SKATE FRIED.
317. INGREDIENTS.--Skate, sufficient vinegar to cover them, salt and
pepper to taste, 1 sliced onion, a small bunch of parsley, the juice of
1/2 lemon, hot dripping.
_Mode_.--Cleanse the skate, lay them in a dish, with sufficient vinegar
to cover them; add the salt, pepper, onion, parsley, and lemon-juice,
and let the fish remain in this pickle for 1-1/2 hour. Then drain them
well, flour them, and fry of a nice brown, in hot dripping. They may be
served either with or without sauce. Skate is not good if dressed too
fresh, unless it is crimped; it should, therefore, be kept for a day,
but not long enough to produce a disagreeable smell.
_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d. per lb.
_Seasonable_ from August to April.
OTHER SPECIES OF SKATE.--Besides the true skate, there are
several other species found in our seas. These are known as the
_white_ skate, the long-nosed skate, and the Homelyn ray, which
are of inferior quality, though often crimped, and sold for true
skate.
TO BAKE SMELTS.
318. INGREDIENTS.--12 smelts, bread crumbs, 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 2
blades of pounded mace; salt and cayenne to taste.
_Mode_.--Wash, and dry the fish thoroughly in a cloth, and arrange them
nicely in a flat baking-dish. Cover them with fine bread crumbs, and
place little pieces of butter all over them. Season and bake for 15
minutes. Just before serving, add a squeeze of lemon-juice, and garnish
with fried parsley and cut lemon.
_Time_.--1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. per dozen.
_Seasonable_ from October to May.
_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.
TO CHOOSE SMELTS.--When good, this fish is of a fine silvery appearance,
and when alive, their backs are of a dark brown shade, which, after
death, fades to a light fawn. They ought to have a refreshing fragrance,
resembling that of a cucumber.
THE ODOUR OF THE SMELT.--This peculiarity in the smelt has been
compared, by some, to the fragrance of a cucumber, and by
others, to that of a violet. It is a very elegant fish, and
formerly abounded in the Thames. The _Atharine_, or sand smelt,
is sometimes sold for the true one; but it is an inferior fish,
being drier in the quality of its flesh. On the south coast of
England, where the true smelt is rare, it is plentiful.
TO FRY SMELTS.
319. INGREDIENTS.--Egg and bread crumbs, a little flour; boiling lard.
_Mode_.--Smelts should be very fresh, and not washed more than is
necessary to clean them. Dry them in a cloth, lightly flour, dip them in
egg, and sprinkle over with very fine bread crumbs, and put them into
boiling lard. Fry of a nice pale brown, and be careful not to take off
the light roughness of the crumbs, or their beauty will be spoiled. Dry
them before the fire on a drainer, and servo with plain melted butter.
This fish is often used as a garnishing.
_Time_.--5 minutes.
_Average cost_, 2s. per dozen.
_Seasonable_ from October to May.
[Illustration: THE SMELT.]
THE SMELT.--This is a delicate little fish, and is in high
esteem. Mr. Yarrell asserts that the true smelt is entirety
confined to the western and eastern coasts of Britain. It very
rarely ventures far from the shore, and is plentiful in
November, December, and January.
BAKED SOLES.
320. INGREDIENTS.--2 soles, 1/4 lb. of butter, egg, and bread crumbs,
minced parsley, 1 glass of sherry, lemon-juice; cayenne and salt to
taste.
_Mode_.--Clean, skin, and well wash the fish, and dry them thoroughly in
a cloth. Brush them over with egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs mixed with
a little minced parsley, lay them in a large flat baking-dish, white
side uppermost; or if it will not hold the two soles, they may each be
laid on a dish by itself; but they must not be put one on the top of the
other. Melt the butter, and pour it over the whole, and bake for 20
minutes. Take a portion of the gravy that flows from the fish, add the
wine, lemon-juice, and seasoning, give it one boil, skim, pour it
_under_ the fish, and serve.
_Time_.--20 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. to 2s. per pair.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
TO CHOOSE SOLES.--This fish should be both thick and firm. If the skin
is difficult to be taken off, and the flesh looks grey, it is good.
[Illustration: THE SOLE.]
THE SOLE.--This ranks next to the turbot in point of excellence
among our flat fish. It is abundant on the British coasts, but
those of the western shores are much superior in size to those
taken on the northern. The finest are caught in Torbay, and
frequently weigh 8 or 10 lbs. per pair. Its flesh being firm,
white, and delicate, is greatly esteemed.
BOILED SOLES.
321. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. salt to each gallon of water.
_Mode_.--Cleanse and wash the fish carefully, cut off the fins, but do
not skin it. Lay it in a fish-kettle, with sufficient cold water to
cover it, salted in the above proportion. Let it gradually come to a
boil, and keep it simmering for a few minutes, according to the size of
the fish. Dish it on a hot napkin after well draining it, and garnish
with parsley and cut lemon. Shrimp, or lobster sauce, and plain melted
butter, are usually sent to table with this dish.
_Time_.--After the water boils, 7 minutes for a middling-sized sole.
_Average cost_, 1s. to 2s. per pair.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Sufficient_,--1 middling-sized sole for 2 persons.
SOLE OR COD PIE.
322. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold boiled sole or cod, seasoning to
taste of pepper, salt, and pounded mace, 1 dozen oysters to each lb. of
fish, 3 tablespoonfuls of white stock, 1 teacupful of cream thickened
with flour, puff paste.
_Mode_.--Clear the fish from the bones, lay it in a pie-dish, and
between each layer put a few oysters and a little seasoning; add the
stock, and, when liked, a small quantity of butter; cover with puff
paste, and bake for 1/2 hour. Boil the cream with sufficient flour to
thicken it; pour in the pie, and serve.
_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_ for this quantity, 10d.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.
SOLES WITH CREAM SAUCE.
323. INGREDIENTS.--2 soles; salt, cayenne, and pounded mace to taste;
the juice of 1/2 lemon, salt and water, 1/2 pint of cream.
_Mode_.--Skin, wash, and fillet the soles, and divide each fillet in 2
pieces; lay them in cold salt and water, which bring gradually to a
boil. When the water boils, take out the fish, lay it in a delicately
clean stewpan, and cover with the cream. Add the seasoning, simmer very
gently for ten minutes, and, just before serving, put in the lemon-juice.
The fillets may be rolled, and secured by means of a skewer; but this is
not so economical a way of dressing them, as double the quantity of cream
is required.
_Time_.--10 minutes in the cream.
_Average cost_, from 1s. to 2s. per pair. _Seasonable_ at any time.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
This will be found a most delicate and delicious dish.
THE SOLE A FAVOURITE WITH THE ANCIENT GREEKS.--This fish was
much sought after by the ancient Greeks on account of its light
and nourishing qualities. The brill, the flounder, the diamond
and Dutch plaice, which, with the sole, were known under the
general name of _passeres_, were all equally esteemed, and had
generally the same qualities attributed to them.
FILLETED SOLES A L'ITALIENNE.
324. INGREDIENTS.--2 soles; salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste;
egg and bread crumbs, butter, the juice of 1 lemon.
_Mode_.--Skin, and carefully wash the soles, separate the meat from the
bone, and divide each fillet in two pieces. Brush them over with white
of egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs and seasoning, and put them in a
baking-dish. Place small pieces of butter over the whole, and bake for
1/2 hour. When they are nearly done, squeeze the juice of a lemon over
them, and serve on a dish, with Italian sauce (see Sauces) poured over.
_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, from 1s. to 2s. per pair.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 6 persons.
WHITING may be dressed in the same manner, and will be found very
delicious.
THE FLAVOUR OF THE SOLE.--This, as a matter of course, greatly
depends on the nature of the ground and bait upon which the
animal feeds. Its natural food are small crabs and shell-fish.
Its colour also depends on the colour of the ground where it
feeds; for if this be white, then the sole is called the white,
or lemon sole; but if the bottom be muddy, then it is called the
black sole. Small-sized soles, caught in shallow water on the
coasts, are the best in flavour.
FRICASSEED SOLES.
325. INGREDIENTS.--2 middling-sized soles, 1 small one, 1/2 teaspoonful
of chopped lemon-peel, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a little grated
bread; salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste; 1 egg, 2 oz. butter, 1/2 pint
of good gravy, 2 tablespoonfuls of port wine, cayenne and lemon-juice to
taste.
_Mode_.--Fry the soles of a nice brown, as directed in recipe No. 327,
and drain them well from fat. Take all the meat from the small sole,
chop it fine, and mix with it the lemon-peel, parsley, bread, and
seasoning; work altogether, with the yolk of an egg and the butter; make
this into small balls, and fry them. Thicken the gravy with a
dessert-spoonful of flour, add the port wine, cayenne, and lemon-juice;
lay in the 2 soles and balls; let them simmer gently for 6 minutes;
serve hot, and garnish with cut lemon.
_Time_.--10 minutes to fry the soles.
_Average cost_ for this quantity, 3s.
_Seasonable_ at any time. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
HOW SOLES ARE CAUGHT.--The instrument usually employed is a
trawl net, which is shaped like a pocket, of from sixty to
eighty feet long, and open at the mouth from thirty-two to forty
feet, and three deep. This is dragged along the ground by the
vessel, and on the art of the fisherman in its employment, in a
great measure depends the quality of the fish he catches. If,
for example, he drags the net too quickly, all that are caught
are swept rapidly to the end of the net, where they are
smothered, and sometimes destroyed. A medium has to be observed,
in order that as few as possible escape being caught in the net,
and as many as possible preserved alive in it.
FRIED FILLETED SOLES.
326. Soles for filleting should be large, as the flesh can be more
easily separated from the bones, and there is less waste. Skin and wash
the fish, and raise the meat carefully from the bones, and divide it
into nice handsome pieces. The more usual way is to roll the fillets,
after dividing each one in two pieces, and either bind them round with
twine, or run a small skewer through them. Brush over with egg, and
cover with bread crumbs; fry them as directed in the foregoing recipe,
and garnish with fried parsley and cut lemon. When a pretty dish is
desired, this is by far the most elegant mode of dressing soles, as they
look much better than when fried whole. (_See_ Coloured Plate A.)
Instead of rolling the fillets, they may be cut into square pieces, and
arranged in the shape of a pyramid on the dish.
_Time_.--About 10 minutes. _Average cost_, from 1s. to 2s. per pair.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Sufficient_,--2 large soles for 6 persons.
FRIED SOLES.
327. INGREDIENTS.--2 middling-sized soles, hot lard or clarified
dripping, egg, and bread crumbs.
_Mode_.--Skin and carefully wash the soles, and cut off the fins, wipe
them very dry, and let them remain in the cloth until it is time to
dress them. Have ready some fine bread crumbs and beaten egg; dredge the
soles with a little flour, brush them over with egg, and cover with
bread crumbs. Put them in a deep pan, with plenty of clarified dripping
or lard (when the expense is not objected to, oil is still better)
heated, so that it may neither scorch the fish nor make them sodden.
When they are sufficiently cooked on one side, turn them carefully, and
brown them on the other: they may be considered ready when a thick smoke
rises. Lift them out carefully, and lay them before the fire on a
reversed sieve and soft paper, to absorb the fat. Particular attention
should be paid to this, as nothing is more disagreeable than greasy
fish: this may be always avoided by dressing them in good time, and
allowing a few minutes for them to get thoroughly crisp, and free from
greasy moisture. Dish them on a hot napkin, garnish with cut lemon and
fried parsley, and send them to table with shrimp sauce and plain melted
butter.
_Time_.--10 minutes for large soles; less time for small ones.
_Average cost_, from 1s. to 2s. per pair.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
SOLES WITH MUSHROOMS.
328. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of milk, 1 pint of water, 1 oz. butter, 1 oz.
salt, a little lemon-juice, 2 middling-sized soles.
_Mode_.--Cleanse the soles, but do not skin them, and lay them in a
fish-kettle, with the milk, water, butter, salt, and lemon-juice. Bring
them gradually to boil, and let them simmer very gently till done, which
will be in about 7 minutes. Take them up, drain them well on a cloth,
put them on a hot dish, and pour over them a good mushroom sauce. (_See_
Sauces.)
_Time_.--After the water boils, 7 minutes.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.
SPRATS.
329. Sprats should be cooked very fresh, which can be ascertained by
their bright and sparkling eyes. Wipe them dry; fasten them in rows by a
skewer run through the eyes; dredge with flour, and broil them on a
gridiron over a nice clear fire. The gridiron should be rubbed with
suet. Serve very hot.
_Time_,--3 or 4 minutes. _Average cost_, 1d. per lb.
_Seasonable_ from November to March.
TO CHOOSE SPRATS.--Choose these from their silvery appearance, as the
brighter they are, so are they the fresher.
SPRATS FRIED IN BATTER.
330. INGREDIENTS.--2 eggs, flour, bread crumbs; seasoning of salt and
pepper to taste.
_Mode_.--Wipe the sprats, and dip them in a batter made of the above
ingredients. Fry of a nice brown, serve very hot, and garnish with fried
parsley.
Sprats may be baked like herrings. (_See_ No. 268.)
DRIED SPRATS.
331. Dried sprats should be put into a basin, and boiling water poured
over them; they may then be skinned and served, and this will be found a
much better way than boiling them.
[Illustration: THE SPRAT.]
THE SPRAT.--This migratory fish, is rarely found longer than
four or five inches, and visits the shores of Britain after the
herring and other kinds of fish have taken their departure from
them. On the coasts of Suffolk, Essex, and Kent, they are very
abundant, and from 400 to 500 boats are employed in catching
them during the winter season. Besides plentifully supplying the
London market, they are frequently sold at sixpence a bushel to
farmers for manuring purposes. They enter the Thames about the
beginning of November, and leave it in March. At Yarmouth and
Gravesend they are cured like red herrings.
BAKED STURGEON.
332. INGREDIENTS.--1 small sturgeon, salt and pepper to taste, 1 small
bunch of herbs, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1 pint of
white wine.
_Mode_,--Cleanse the fish thoroughly, skin it, and split it along the
belly without separating it; have ready a large baking-dish, in which
lay the fish, sprinkle over the seasoning and herbs very finely minced,
and moisten it with the lemon-juice and wine. Place the butter in small
pieces over the whole of the fish, put it in the oven, and baste
frequently; brown it nicely, and serve with its own gravy.
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