The Book of Household Management - Mrs. Isabella Beeton
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_Time_.--Nearly 1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. to 1s. 6d. per lb.
_Seasonable_ from August to March.
[Illustration: THE STURGEON.]
THE STURGEON.--This fish commences the sixth of Linnaean order,
and all the species are large, seldom measuring, when
full-grown, less than three or four feet in length. Its flesh is
reckoned extremely delicious, and, in the time of the emperor
Severus, was so highly valued by the ancients, that it was
brought to table by servants crowned with coronets, and preceded
by a band of music. It is an inhabitant of the Baltic, the
Mediterranean, the Caspian, and the Black Sea, and of the
Danube, the Volga, the Don, and other large rivers. It is
abundant in the rivers of North America, and is occasionally
taken in the Thames, as well as in the Eske and the Eden. It is
one of those fishes considered as royal property. It is from its
_roe_ that _caviare_, a favourite food of the Russians, is
prepared. Its flesh is delicate, firm, and white, but is rare in
the London market, where it sells for 1s. or 1s. 6d. per lb.
THE STERLET is a smaller species of sturgeon, found in the
Caspian Sea and some Russian rivers. It also is greatly prized
on account of the delicacy of its flesh.
ROAST STURGEON.
333. INGREDIENTS.--Veal stuffing, buttered paper, the tail-end of a
sturgeon.
_Mode_.--Cleanse the fish, bone and skin it; make a nice veal stuffing
(see Forcemeats), and fill it with the part where the bones came from;
roll it in buttered paper, bind it up firmly with tape, like a fillet of
veal, and roast it in a Dutch oven before a clear fire. Serve with good
brown gravy, or plain melted butter.
_Time_.--About 1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. to 1s. 6d. per lb.
_Seasonable_ from August to March.
_Note_.--Sturgeon may be plain-boiled, and served with Dutch sauce. The
fish is very firm, and requires long boiling.
ESTIMATE OF THE STURGEON BY THE ANCIENTS.--By the ancients, the
flesh of this fish was compared to the ambrosia of the
immortals. The poet Martial passes a high eulogium upon it, and
assigns it a place on the luxurious tables of the Palatine
Mount. If we may credit a modern traveller in China, the people
of that country generally entirely abstain from it, and the
sovereign of the Celestial Empire confines it to his own
kitchen, or dispenses it to only a few of his greatest
favourites.
MATELOT OF TENCH.
334. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of stock No. 105, 1/2 pint of port wine, 1
dozen button onions, a few mushrooms, a faggot of herbs, 2 blades of
mace, 1 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, thyme, 1 shalot,
2 anchovies, 1 teacupful of stock No. 105, flour, 1 dozen oysters, the
juice of 1/2 lemon; the number of tench, according to size.
_Mode_.--Scale and clean the tench, cut them into pieces, and lay them
in a stewpan; add the stock, wine, onions, mushrooms, herbs, and mace,
and simmer gently for 1/2 hour. Put into another stewpan all the
remaining ingredients but the oysters and lemon-juice, and boil slowly
for 10 minutes, when add the strained liquor from the tench, and keep
stirring it over the fire until somewhat reduced. Rub it through a
sieve, pour it over the tench with the oysters, which must be previously
scalded in their own liquor, squeeze in the lemon-juice, and serve.
Garnish with croutons.
_Time_. 3/4 hour.
_Seasonable_ from October to June.
[Illustration: THE TENCH.]
THE TENCH.--This fish is generally found in foul and weedy
waters, and in such places as are well supplied with rushes.
They thrive best in standing waters, and are more numerous in
pools and ponds than in rivers. Those taken in the latter,
however, are preferable for the table. It does not often exceed
four or five pounds in weight, and is in England esteemed as a
delicious and wholesome food. As, however, they are sometimes
found in waters where the mud is excessively fetid, their
flavour, if cooked immediately on being caught, is often very
unpleasant; but if they are transferred into clear water, they
soon recover from the obnoxious taint.
TENCH STEWED WITH WINE.
335. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of stock No. 105, 1/2 pint of Madeira or
sherry, salt and pepper to taste, 1 bay-leaf, thickening of butter and
flour.
_Mode_.--Clean and crimp the tench; carefully lay it in a stewpan with
the stock, wine, salt and pepper, and bay-leaf; let it stew gently for
1/2 hour; then take it out, put it on a dish, and keep hot. Strain the
liquor, and thicken it with butter and flour kneaded together, and stew
for 5 minutes. If not perfectly smooth, squeeze it through a tammy, add
a very little cayenne, and pour over the fish. Garnish with balls of
veal forcemeat.
_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 hour.
_Seasonable_ from October to June.
A SINGULAR QUALITY IN THE TENCH.--It is said that the tench is
possessed of such healing properties among the finny tribes,
that even the voracious pike spares it on this account.
The pike, fell tyrant of the liquid plain,
With ravenous waste devours his fellow train;
Yet howsoe'er with raging famine pined,
The tench he spares, a medicinal kind;
For when by wounds distress'd, or sore disease,
He courts the salutary fish for ease;
Close to his scales the kind physician glides,
And sweats a healing balsam from his sides.
In our estimation, however, this self-denial in the pike may be
attributed to a less poetical cause; namely, from the mud-loving
disposition of the tench, it is enabled to keep itself so
completely concealed at the bottom of its aqueous haunts, that
it remains secure from the attacks of its predatory neighbour.
STEWED TROUT.
336. INGREDIENTS.--2 middling-sized trout, 1/2 onion cut in thin slices,
a little parsley, 2 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 2 bay-leaves, a little
thyme, salt and pepper to taste, 1 pint of medium stock No. 105, 1 glass
of port wine, thickening of butter and flour.
_Mode_.--Wash the fish very clean, and wipe it quite dry. Lay it in a
stewpan, with all the ingredients but the butter and flour, and simmer
gently for 1/2 hour, or rather more, should not the fish be quite done.
Take it out, strain the gravy, add the thickening, and stir it over a
sharp fire for 5 minutes; pour it over the trout, and serve.
_Time_.--According to size, 1/2 hour or more.
_Average cost_.--Seldom bought.
_Seasonable_ from May to September, and fatter from the middle to the
end of August than at any other time.
_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.
Trout may be served with anchovy or caper sauce, baked in buttered
paper, or fried whole like smelts. Trout dressed a la Genevese is
extremely delicate; for this proceed the same as with salmon, No. 307.
[Illustration: THE TROUT.]
THE TROUT.--This fish, though esteemed by the moderns for its
delicacy, was little regarded by the ancients. Although it
abounded in the lakes of the Roman empire, it is generally
mentioned by writers only on account of the beauty of its
colours. About the end of September, they quit the deep water to
which they had retired during the hot weather, for the purpose
of spawning. This they always do on a gravelly bottom, or where
gravel and sand are mixed among stones, towards the end or by
the sides of streams. At this period they become black about the
head and body, and become soft and unwholesome. They are never
good when they are large with roe; but there are in all trout
rivers some barren female fish, which continue good throughout
the winter. In the common trout, the stomach is uncommonly
strong and muscular, shell-fish forming a portion of the food of
the animal; and it takes into its stomach gravel or small stones
in order to assist in comminuting it.
BOILED TURBOT.
337. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of salt to each gallon of water.
_Mode_--Choose a middling-sized turbot; for they are invariably the most
valuable: if very large, the meat will be tough and thready. Three or
four hours before dressing, soak the fish in salt and water to take off
the slime; then thoroughly cleanse it, and with a knife make an incision
down the middle of the back, to prevent the skin of the belly from
cracking. Rub it over with lemon, and be particular not to cut off the
fins. Lay the fish in a very clean turbot-kettle, with sufficient cold
water to cover it, and salt in the above proportion. Let it gradually
come to a boil, and skim very carefully; keep it gently simmering, and
on no account let it boil fast, as the fish would have a very unsightly
appearance. When the meat separates easily from the bone, it is done;
then take it out, let it drain well, and dish it on a hot napkin. Rub a
little lobster spawn through a sieve, sprinkle it over the fish, and
garnish with tufts of parsley and cut lemon. Lobster or shrimp sauce,
and plain melted butter, should be sent to table with it. (See Coloured
Plate E.)
_Time_.--After the water boils, about 1/2 hour for a large turbot;
middling size, about 20 minutes.
_Average cost_,--large turbot, from 10s. to 12s.; middling size, from
12s. to 15s.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Sufficient_, 1 middling-sized turbot for 8 persons.
_Note_.--An amusing anecdote is related, by Miss Edgeworth, of a bishop,
who, descending to his kitchen to superintend the dressing of a turbot,
and discovering that his cook had stupidly cut off the fins, immediately
commenced sewing them on again with his own episcopal fingers. This
dignitary knew the value of a turbot's gelatinous appendages.
GARNISH FOR TURBOT OR OTHER LARGE FISH.
338. Take the crumb of a stale loaf, cut it into small pyramids with
flat tops, and on the top of each pyramid, put rather more than a
tablespoonful of white of egg beaten to a stiff froth. Over this,
sprinkle finely-chopped parsley and fine raspings of a dark colour.
Arrange these on the napkin round the fish, one green and one brown
alternately.
TO CHOOSE TURBOT.--See that it is thick, and of a yellowish white; for
if of a bluish tint, it is not good.
[Illustration: THE TURBOT.]
THE TURBOT.--This is the most esteemed of all our flat fish. The
northern parts of the English coast, and some places off the
coast of Holland, produce turbot in great abundance, and in
greater excellence than any other parts of the world. The London
market is chiefly supplied by Dutch fishermen, who bring to it
nearly 90,000 a year. The flesh is firm, white, rich, and
gelatinous, and is the better for being kept a day or two
previous to cooking it. In many parts of the country, turbot and
halibut are indiscriminately sold for each other. They are,
however, perfectly distinct; the upper parts of the former being
marked with large, unequal, and obtuse tubercles, while those of
the other are quite smooth, and covered with oblong soft scales,
which firmly adhere to the body.
[Illustration: TURBOT-KETTLE.]
FISH-KETTLES are made in an oblong form, and have two handles,
with a movable bottom, pierced full of holes, on which the fish
is laid, and on which it may be lifted from the water, by means
of two long handles attached to each side of the movable bottom.
This is to prevent the liability of breaking the fish, as it
would necessarily be if it were cooked in a common saucepan. In
the list of Messrs. Richard and John Slack (see 71), the price
of two of these is set down at 10s. The turbot-kettle, as will
be seen by our cut, is made differently from ordinary
fish-kettles, it being less deep, whilst it is wider, and more
pointed at the sides; thus exactly answering to the shape of the
fish which it is intended should be boiled in it. It may be
obtained from the same manufacturers, and its price is L1.
BAKED FILLETS OF TURBOT.
339. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold turbot, lobster sauce left from
the preceding day, egg, and bread crumbs; cayenne and salt to taste;
minced parsley, nutmeg, lemon-juice.
_Mode_.--After having cleared the fish from all skin and bone, divide it
into square pieces of an equal size; brush them over with egg, sprinkle
with bread crumbs mixed with a little minced parsley and seasoning. Lay
the fillets in a baking-dish, with sufficient butter to baste with. Bake
for 1/4 hour, and do not forget to keep them well moistened with the
butter. Put a little lemon-juice and grated nutmeg to the cold lobster
sauce; make it hot, and pour over the fish, which must be well drained
from the butter. Garnish with parsley and cut lemon.
_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Note_.--Cold turbot thus warmed in the remains of lobster sauce will be
found much nicer than putting the fish again in water.
FILLETS OF TURBOT A L'ITALIENNE.
340. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold turbot, Italian sauce. (See
Sauces.)
_Mode_.--Clear the fish carefully from the bone, and take away all skin,
which gives an unpleasant flavour to the sauce. Make the sauce hot, lay
in the fish to warm through, but do not let it boil. Garnish with
croutons.
_Time_.--5 minutes.
_Seasonable_ all the year.
THE ANCIENT ROMANS' ESTIMATE OF TURBOT.--As this luxurious
people compared soles to partridges, and sturgeons to peacocks,
so they found a resemblance to the turbot in the pheasant. In
the time of Domitian, it is said one was taken of such
dimensions as to require, in the imperial kitchen, a new stove
to be erected, and a new dish to be made for it, in order that
it might be cooked and served whole: not even imperial Rome
could furnish a stove or a dish large enough for the monstrous
animal. Where it was caught, we are not aware; but the turbot of
the Adriatic Sea held a high rank in the "Eternal City."
TURBOT A LA CREME.
341. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold turbot. For sauce, 2 oz. of
butter, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream; salt, cayenne, and pounded mace to
taste.
_Mode_.--Clear away all skin and bone from the flesh of the turbot,
which should be done when it comes from table, as it causes less waste
when trimmed hot. Cut the flesh into nice square pieces, as equally as
possible; put into a stewpan the butter, let it melt, and add the cream
and seasoning; let it just simmer for one minute, but not boil. Lay in
the fish to warm, and serve it garnished with croutons or a paste
border.
_Time_.--10 minutes.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Note_.--The remains of cold salmon may be dressed in this way, and the
above mixture may be served in a _vol-au-vent_.
TURBOT AU GRATIN.
342. INGREDIENTS.--Remains of cold turbot, bechamel (_see_ Sauces),
bread crumbs, butter.
_Mode_.--Cut the flesh of the turbot into small dice, carefully freeing
it from all skin and bone. Put them into a stewpan, and moisten with 4
or 5 tablespoonfuls of bechamel. Let it get thoroughly hot, but do not
allow it to boil. Spread the mixture on a dish, cover with finely-grated
bread crumbs, and place small pieces of butter over the top. Brown it in
the oven, or with a salamander.
_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour. _Seasonable_ at any time.
BOILED WHITING.
343. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water.
_Mode_.--Cleanse the fish, but do not skin them; lay them in a
fish-kettle, with sufficient cold water to cover them, and salt in the
above proportion. Bring them gradually to a boil, and simmer gently for
about 5 minutes, or rather more should the fish be very large. Dish them
on a hot napkin, and garnish with tufts of parsley. Serve with anchovy
or caper sauce, and plain melted butter.
_Time_.--After the water boils, 5 minutes.
_Average cost_ for small whitings, 4d. each.
_Seasonable_ all the year, but best from October to March.
_Sufficient_, 1 small whiting for each person.
To CHOOSE WHITING.--Choose for the firmness of its flesh and the silvery
hue of its appearance.
[Illustration: THE WHITING.]
The Whiting.--This fish forms a light, tender, and delicate
food, easy of digestion. It appears in our seas in the spring,
within three miles of the shores, where it arrives in large
shoals to deposit its spawn. It is caught by line, and is
usually between ten and twelve inches long, and seldom exceeding
a pound and a half in weight. On the edge of the Dogger Bank,
however, it has been caught so heavy as to weigh from three to
seven or eight pounds. When less than six inches long, it is not
allowed to be caught.
BROILED WHITING.
344. INGREDIENTS.--Salt and water, flour.
_Mode_.--Wash the whiting in salt and water, wipe them thoroughly, and
let them remain in the cloth to absorb all moisture. Flour them well,
and broil over a very clear fire. Serve with _maitre d'hotel_ sauce, or
plain melted butter (_see_ Sauces). Be careful to preserve the liver, as
by some it is considered very delicate.
_Time_.--5 minutes for a small whiting. _Average cost_, 4d. each.
_Seasonable_ all the year, but best from October to March.
_Sufficient_, 1 small whiting for each person.
Buckhorn.--Whitings caught in Cornwall are salted and dried, and in
winter taken to the markets, and sold under the singular name of
"Buckhorn."
FRIED WHITING.
345. INGREDIENTS.--Egg and bread crumbs, a little flour, hot lard or
clarified dripping.
_Mode_.--Take off the skin, clean, and thoroughly wipe the fish free
from all moisture, as this is most essential, in order that the egg and
bread crumbs may properly adhere. Fasten the tail in the mouth by means
of a small skewer, brush the fish over with egg, dredge with a little
flour, and cover with bread crumbs. Fry them in hot lard or clarified
dripping of a nice colour, and serve them on a napkin, garnished with
fried parsley. (See Coloured Plate D.) Send them to table with shrimp
sauce and plain melted butter.
_Time_.--About 6 minutes. Average cost, 4d. each.
_Seasonable_ all the year, but best from October to March.
_Sufficient_, 1 small whiting for each person.
_Note_.--Large whitings may be filleted, rolled, and served as fried
filleted soles (_see_ Coloured Plato A). Small fried whitings are
frequently used for garnishing large boiled fish, such as turbot, cod,
etc.
WHITING AU GRATIN, or BAKED WHITING.
346. INGREDIENTS.--4 whiting, butter, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley,
a few chopped mushrooms when obtainable; pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg
to taste; butter, 2 glasses of sherry or Madeira, bread crumbs.
_Mode_.--Grease the bottom of a baking-dish with butter, and over it,
strew some minced parsley and mushrooms. Scale, empty, and wash the
whitings, and wipe them thoroughly dry, carefully preserving the livers.
Lay them in the dish, sprinkle them with bread crumbs and seasoning,
adding a little grated nutmeg, and also a little more minced parsley and
mushrooms. Place small pieces of butter over the whiting, moisten with
the wine, and bake for 20 minutes in a hot oven. If there should be too
much sauce, reduce it by boiling over a sharp fire for a few minutes,
and pour under the fish. Serve with a cut lemon, and no other sauce.
_Time_.---20 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d. each.
_Seasonable_ all the year, but best from October to March.
_Sufficient_.--This quantity for 4 or 5 persons.
WHITING AUX FINE HERBES.
347. INGREDIENTS.-1 bunch of sweet herbs chopped very fine; butter.
_Mode_.--Clean and skin the fish, fasten the tails in the mouths; and lay
them in a baking-dish. Mince the herbs very fine, strew them over the
fish, and place small pieces of butter over; cover with another dish,
and let them simmer in a Dutch oven for 1/4 hour or 20 minutes. Turn the
fish once or twice, and serve with the sauce poured over.
_Time_.--1/4 hour or 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d. each.
_Seasonable_ all the year, but best from October to March.
_Sufficient_, 1 small whiting for each person.
THE WHITING POUT, AND POLLACK.--About the mouth of the Thames,
and generally all round the English coasts, as well as in the
northern seas, the pout is plentiful. It bears a striking
resemblance to the whiting, and is esteemed as an excellent
fish.--The _pollack_ is also taken all round our coasts, and
likewise bears a striking resemblance to the whiting; indeed, it
is sometimes mistaken by the inexperienced for that fish; its
flesh being considered by many equally delicate.
TO DRESS WHITEBAIT.
348. INGREDIENTS.--A little flour, hot lard, seasoning of salt.
_Mode_.--This fish should be put into iced water as soon as bought,
unless they are cooked immediately. Drain them from the water in a
colander, and have ready a nice clean dry cloth, over which put 2 good
handfuls of flour. Toss in the whitebait, shake them lightly in the
cloth, and put them in a wicker sieve to take away the superfluous
flour. Throw them into a pan of boiling lard, very few at a time, and
let them fry till of a whitey-brown colour. Directly they are done, they
must he taken out, and laid before the fire for a minute or two on a
sieve reversed, covered with blotting-paper to absorb the fat. Dish them
on a hot napkin, arrange the fish very high in the centre, and sprinkle
a little salt over the whole.
_Time_.--3 minutes.
_Seasonable _from April to August.
[Illustration: WHITEBAIT.]
WHITEBAIT.--This highly-esteemed little fish appears in
innumerable multitudes in the river Thames, near Greenwich and
Blackwall, during the month of July, when it forms, served with
lemon and brown bread and butter, a tempting dish to vast
numbers of Londoners, who flock to the various taverns of these
places, in order to gratify their appetites. The fish has been
supposed be the fry of the shad, the sprat, the smelt, or the
bleak. Mr. Yarrell, however, maintains that it is a species in
itself, distinct from every other fish. When fried with flour,
it is esteemed a great delicacy. The ministers of the Crown have
had a custom, for many years, of having a "whitebait dinner"
just before the close of the session. It is invariably the
precursor of the prorogation of Parliament, and the repast is
provided by the proprietor of the "Trafalgar," Greenwich.
FISH PIE, WITH TENCH AND EELS.
349. INGREDIENTS.--2 tench, 2 eels, 2 onions, a faggot of herbs, 4
blades of mace, 3 anchovies, 1 pint of water, pepper and salt to taste,
1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, the yolks of 6 hard-boiled eggs, puff
paste.
_Mode_.--Clean and bone the tench, skin and bone the eels, and cut them
into pieces 2 inches long, and leave the sides of the tench whole. Put
the bones into a stewpan with the onions, herbs, mace, anchovies, water,
and seasoning, and let them simmer gently for 1 hour. Strain it off, put
it to cool, and skim off all the fat. Lay the tench and eels in a
pie-dish, and between each layer put seasoning, chopped parsley, and
hard-boiled eggs; pour in part of the strained liquor, cover in with
puff paste, and bake for 1/2 hour or rather more. The oven should be
rather quick, and when done, heat the remainder of the liquor, which
pour into the pie.
_Time_.--1/2 hour to bake, or rather more if the oven is slow.
FISH SCALLOP.
I.
350. INGREDIENTS.--Remains of cold fish of any sort, 1/2 pint of cream,
1/2 tablespoonful of anchovy sauce, 1/2 teaspoonful of made mustard,
ditto of walnut ketchup, pepper and salt to taste (the above quantities
are for 1/2 lb. of fish when picked); bread crumbs.
_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients into a stewpan, carefully picking the
fish from the bones; set it on the fire, let it remain till nearly hot,
occasionally stir the contents, but do not allow it to boil. When done,
put the fish into a deep dish or scallop shell, with a good quantity of
bread crumbs; place small pieces of butter on the top, set in a Dutch
oven before the fire to brown, or use a salamander.
_Time_.--1/4 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold fish, 10d.
II.
351. INGREDIENTS.--Any cold fish, 1 egg, milk, 1 large blade of pounded
mace, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, pepper
and salt to taste, bread crumbs, butter.
_Mode_.--Pick the fish carefully from the bones, and moisten with milk
and the egg; add the other ingredients, and place in a deep dish or
scallop shells; cover with bread crumbs, butter the top, and brown
before the fire; when quite hot, serve.
_Time_.--20 minutes. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold fish, 4d.
WATER SOUCHY.
352. Perch, tench, soles, eels, and flounders are considered the best
fish for this dish. For the souchy, put some water into a stewpan with a
bunch of chopped parsley, some roots, and sufficient salt to make it
brackish. Let these simmer for 1 hour, and then stew the fish in this
water. When they are done, take them out to drain, have ready some
finely-chopped parsley, and a few roots cut into slices of about one
inch thick and an inch in length. Put the fish in a tureen or deep dish,
strain the liquor over them, and add the minced parsley and roots. Serve
with brown bread and butter.
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