The Book of Household Management - Mrs. Isabella Beeton

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[Illustration: NASTURTIUMS.]

NASTURTIUMS.--The elegant nasturtium-plant, called by
naturalists _Tropoeolum_, and which sometimes goes by the name
of Indian cress, came originally from Peru, but was easily made
to grow in these islands. Its young leaves and flowers are of a
slightly hot nature, and many consider them a good adjunct to
salads, to which they certainly add a pretty appearance. When
the beautiful blossoms, which may be employed with great effect
in garnishing dishes, are off, then the fruit is used as
described in the above recipe.

FRENCH ONION SAUCE, or SOUBISE.

483. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of Bechamel, No. 367, 1 bay-leaf, seasoning
to taste of pounded mace and cayenne, 6 onions, a small piece of ham.

_Mode_.--Peel the onions and cut them in halves; put them in a stewpan,
with just sufficient water to cover them, and add the bay-leaf, ham,
cayenne, and mace; be careful to keep the lid closely shut, and simmer
them until tender. Take them out and drain thoroughly; rub them through
a tammy or sieve (an old one does for the purpose) with a wooden spoon,
and put them to 1/2 pint of Bechamel; keep stirring over the fire until
it boils, when serve. If it should require any more seasoning, add it to
taste.

_Time_.--3/4 hour to boil the onions.

_Average cost_, 10d. for this quantity.

_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized dish.

WHITE ONION SAUCE, for Boiled Rabbits, Roast Shoulder of Mutton, &c.

484. INGREDIENTS.--9 large onions, or 12 middling-sized ones, 1 pint of
melted butter made with milk (No. 380), 1/2 teaspoonful of salt, or
rather more.

_Mode_.--Peel the onions and put them into water to which a little salt
has been added, to preserve their whiteness, and let them remain for 1/4
hour. Then put them in a stewpan, cover them with water, and let them
boil until tender, and, if the onions should be very strong, change the
water after they have been boiling for 1/4 hour. Drain them thoroughly,
chop them, and rub them through a tammy or sieve. Make 1 pint of melted
butter, by recipe No. 380, and when that boils, put in the onions, with
a seasoning of salt; stir it till it simmers, when it will be ready to
serve. If these directions are carefully attended to, this onion sauce
will be delicious.

_Time_.--From 3/4 to 1 hour, to boil the onions.

_Average cost_, 9d. per pint.

_Sufficient_ to serve with a roast shoulder of mutton, or boiled rabbit.

_Seasonable_ from August to March.

_Note_.--To make this sauce very mild and delicate, use Spanish onions,
which can be procured from the beginning of September to Christmas. 2 or
3 tablespoonfuls of cream added just before serving, will be found to
improve its appearance very much. Small onions, when very young, may be
cooked whole, and served in melted butter. A sieve or tammy should be
kept expressly for onions: an old one answers the purpose, as it is
liable to retain the flavour and smell, which of course would be
excessively disagreeable in delicate preparations.

BROWN ONION SAUCE.

485. INGREDIENTS.--6 large onions, rather more than 1/2 pint of good
gravy, 2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste.

_Mode_.--Slice and fry the onions of a pale brown in a stewpan, with the
above quantity of butter, keeping them well stirred, that they do not
get black. When a nice colour, pour over the gravy, and let them simmer
gently until tender. Now skim off every particle of fat, add the
seasoning, and rub the whole through a tammy or sieve; put it back in
the saucepan to warm, and when it boils, serve.

_Time_.--Altogether 1 hour.

_Seasonable_ from August to March.

_Note_.--Where a very high flavouring is liked, add 1 tablespoonful of
mushroom ketchup, or a small quantity of port wine.

HISTORY OF THE ONION.--It is not supposed that any variety of
the onion is indigenous to Britain, as when the large and mild
roots imported from warmer climates, have been cultivated in
these islands a few years, they deteriorate both in size and
sweetness. It is therefore most likely that this plant was first
introduced into England from continental Europe, and that it
originally was produced in a southern climate, and has gradually
become acclimatized to a colder atmosphere. (_See_ No. 139.)

PICKLED ONIONS (a very Simple Method, and exceedingly Good).

486. INGREDIENTS.--Pickling onions; to each quart of vinegar, 2
teaspoonfuls of allspice, 2 teaspoonfuls of whole black pepper.

_Mode_.--Have the onions gathered when quite dry and ripe, and, with the
fingers, take off the thin outside skin; then, with a silver knife
(steel should not be used, as it spoils the colour of the onions),
remove one more skin, when the onion will look quite clear. Have ready
some very dry bottles or jars, and as fast as they are peeled, put them
in. Pour over sufficient cold vinegar to cover them, with pepper and
allspice in the above proportions, taking care that each jar has its
share of the latter ingredients. Tie down with bladder, and put them in
a dry place, and in a fortnight they will be fit for use. This is a most
simple recipe and very delicious, the onions being nice and crisp. They
should be eaten within 6 or 8 months after being done, as the onions are
liable to become soft.

_Seasonable_ from the middle of July to the end of August.

PICKLED ONIONS.

487. INGREDIENTS.--1 gallon of pickling onions, salt and water, milk; to
each 1/2 gallon of vinegar, 1 oz. of bruised ginger, 1/4 teaspoonful of
cayenne, 1 oz. of allspice, 1 oz. of whole black pepper, 1/4 oz. of
whole nutmeg bruised, 8 cloves, 1/4 oz. of mace.

_Mode_.--Gather the onions, which should not be too small, when they are
quite dry and ripe; wipe off the dirt, but do not pare them; make a
strong solution of salt and water, into which put the onions, and change
this, morning and night, for 3 days, and save the _last_ brine they were
put in. Then take the outside skin off, and put them into a tin saucepan
capable of holding them all, as they are always better done together.
Now take equal quantities of milk and the last salt and water the onions
were in, and pour this to them; to this add 2 large spoonfuls of salt,
put them over the fire, and watch them very attentively. Keep constantly
turning the onions about with a wooden skimmer, those at the bottom to
the top, and _vice versa_; and let the milk and water run through the
holes of the skimmer. Remember, the onions must never boil, or, if they
do, they will be good for nothing; and they should be quite transparent.
Keep the onions stirred for a few minutes, and, in stirring them, be
particular not to break them. Then have ready a pan with a colander,
into which turn the onions to drain, covering them with a cloth to keep
in the steam. Place on a table an old cloth, 2 or 3 times double; put
the onions on it when quite hot, and over them an old piece of blanket;
cover this closely over them, to keep in the steam. Let them remain till
the next day, when they will be quite cold, and look yellow and
shrivelled; take off the shrivelled skins, when they should be as white
as snow. Put them in a pan, make a pickle of vinegar and the remaining
ingredients, boil all these up, and pour hot over the onions in the pan.
Cover very closely to keep in all the steam, and let them stand till the
following day, when they will be quite cold. Put them into jars or
bottles well bunged, and a tablespoonful of the best olive-oil on the
top of each jar or bottle. Tie them down with bladder, and let them
stand in a cool place for a month or six weeks, when they will be fit
for use. They should be beautifully white, and eat crisp, without the
least softness, and will keep good many months.

_Seasonable_ from the middle of July to the end of August.

ORANGE GRAVY, for Wildfowl, Widgeon, Teal, &c.

488. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of white stock, No. 107, 1 small onion, 3 or
4 strips of lemon or orange peel, a few leaves of basil, if at hand, the
juice of a Seville orange or lemon, salt and pepper to taste, 1 glass of
port wine.

_Mode_.--Put the onion, cut in slices, into a stewpan with the stock,
orange-peel, and basil, and let them simmer very gently for 1/4 hour or
rather longer, should the gravy not taste sufficiently of the peel.
Strain it off, and add to the gravy the remaining ingredients; let the
whole heat through, and, when on the point of boiling, serve very hot in
a tureen which should have a cover to it.

_Time_.--Altogether 1/2 hour.

_Sufficient_ for a small tureen.

OYSTER FORCEMEAT, for Roast or Boiled Turkey.

489. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of bread crumbs, 1-1/2 oz. of chopped suet
or butter, 1 faggot of savoury herbs, 1/4 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg,
salt and pepper to taste, 2 eggs, 18 oysters.

_Mode_.--Grate the bread very fine, and be careful that no large lumps
remain; put it into a basin with the suet, which must be very finely
minced, or, when butter is used, that must be cut up into small pieces.
Add the herbs, also chopped as small as possible, and seasoning; mix all
these well together, until the ingredients are thoroughly mingled. Open
and beard the oysters, chop them, but not too small, and add them to the
other ingredients. Beat up the eggs, and, with the hand, work
altogether, until it is smoothly mixed. The turkey should not be stuffed
too full: if there should be too much forcemeat, roll it into balls, fry
them, and use them as a garnish.

_Sufficient_ for 1 turkey.

OYSTER KETCHUP.

490. INGREDIENTS.--Sufficient oysters to fill a pint measure, 1 pint of
sherry, 3 oz. of salt, 1 drachm of cayenne, 2 drachms of pounded mace.

_Mode_.--Procure the oysters very fresh, and open sufficient to fill a
pint measure; save the liquor, and scald the oysters in it with the
sherry; strain the oysters, and put them in a mortar with the salt,
cayenne, and mace; pound the whole until reduced to a pulp, then add it
to the liquor in which they were scalded; boil it again five minutes,
and skim well; rub the whole through a sieve, and, when cold, bottle and
cork closely. The corks should be sealed.

_Seasonable_ from September to April.

_Note_.--Cider may be substituted for the sherry.

PICKLED OYSTERS.

491. INGREDIENTS.--100 oysters; to each 1/2 pint of vinegar, 1 blade of
pounded mace, 1 strip of lemon-peel, 12 black peppercorns.

_Mode_.--Get the oysters in good condition, open them, place them in a
saucepan, and let them simmer in their own liquor for about 10 minutes,
very gently; then take them out, one by one, and place them in a jar,
and cover them, when cold, with a pickle made as follows:--Measure the
oyster-liquor; add to it the same quantity of vinegar, with mace,
lemon-peel, and pepper in the above proportion, and boil it for 5
minutes; when cold, pour over the oysters, and tie them down very
closely, as contact with the air spoils them.

_Seasonable_ from September to April.

_Note_.--Put this pickle away in small jars; because directly one is
opened, its contents should immediately be eaten, as they soon spoil.
The pickle should not be kept more than 2 or 3 months.

OYSTER SAUCE, to serve with Fish, Boiled Poultry, &c.

492. INGREDIENTS.--3 dozen oysters, 1/2 pint of melted butter, made with
milk, No. 380.

_Mode_.--Open the oysters carefully, and save their liquor; strain it
into a clean saucepan (a lined one is best), put in the oysters, and let
them just come to the boiling-point, when they should look plump. Take
them off the fire immediately, and put the whole into a basin. Strain
the liquor from them, mix with it sufficient milk to make 1/2 pint
altogether, and follow the directions of No. 380. When the melted butter
is ready and very smooth, put in the oysters, which should be previously
bearded, if you wish the sauce to be really nice. Set it by the side of
the fire to get thoroughly hot, _but do not allow it to boil_, or the
oysters will immediately harden. Using cream instead of milk makes this
sauce extremely delicious. When liked, add a seasoning of cayenne, or
anchovy sauce; but, as we have before stated, a plain sauce _should_ be
plain, and not be overpowered by highly-flavoured essences; therefore we
recommend that the above directions be implicitly followed, and no
seasoning added.

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 2s.

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. Never allow fewer than 6 oysters to 1
person, unless the party is very large.

_Seasonable_ from September to April.

A more economical sauce may be made by using a smaller quantity of
oysters, and not bearding them before they are added to the sauce: this
may answer the purpose, but we cannot undertake to recommend it as a
mode of making this delicious adjunct to fish, &c.

PARSLEY AND BUTTER, to serve with Calf's Head. Boiled Fowls, &c.

493. INGREDIENTS.--2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, 1/2 pint of
melted butter, No. 376.

_Mode_.--Put into a saucepan a small quantity of water, slightly salted,
and when it boils, throw in a good bunch of parsley which has been
previously washed and tied together in a bunch; let it boil for 5
minutes, drain it, mince the leaves very fine, and put the above
quantity in a tureen; pour over it 1/2 pint of smoothly-made melted
butter; stir once, that the ingredients may be thoroughly mixed, and
serve.

_Time_.--5 minutes to boil the parsley. _Average cost_, 4d.

_Sufficient_ for 1 large fowl; allow rather more for a pair.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--Sometimes, in the middle of winter, parsley-leaves are not to
be had, when the following will be found an excellent substitute:--Tie
up a little parsley-seed in a small piece of muslin, and boil it for 10
minutes in a small quantity of water; use this water to make the melted
butter with, and throw into it a little boiled spinach, minced rather
fine, which will have an appearance similar to that of parsley.

[Illustration: PARSLEY.]

PARSLEY.--If there be nothing new under the sun, there are, at
any rate, different uses found for the same thing; for this
pretty aromatic herb was used in ancient times, as we learn from
mythological narrative, to adorn the head of a hero, no less
than Hercules; and now--was ever fall so great?--we moderns use
it in connection with the head of--a calf. According to Homer's
"Iliad," warriors fed their chariot-steeds on parsley; and Pliny
acquaints us with the fact that, as a symbol of mourning, it was
admitted to furnish the funeral tables of the Romans. Egypt,
some say, first produced this herb; thence it was introduced, by
some unknown voyager, into Sardinia, where the Carthaginians
found it, and made it known to the inhabitants of Marseilles.
(See No. 123.)

FRIED PARSLEY, for Garnishing.

494. INGREDIENTS.--Parsley, hot lard or clarified dripping.

_Mode_.--Gather some young parsley; wash, pick, and dry it thoroughly in
a cloth; put it into the wire basket of which we have given an
engraving, and hold it in boiling lard or dripping for a minute or two.
Directly it is done, lift out the basket, and let it stand before the
fire, that the parsley may become thoroughly crisp; and the quicker it
is fried the better. Should the kitchen not be furnished with the above
article, throw the parsley into the frying-pan, and when crisp, lift it
out with a slice, dry it before the fire, and when thoroughly crisp, it
will be ready for use.

[Illustration: WIRE BASKET.]

WIRE BASKET.--For this recipe, a wire basket, as shown in the
annexed engraving, will be found very useful. It is very light
and handy, and may be used for other similar purposes besides
that described above.

PARSLEY JUICE, for Colouring various Dishes.

495. Procure some nice young parsley; wash it and dry it thoroughly in a
cloth; pound the leaves in a mortar till all the juice is extracted, and
put the juice in a teacup or small jar; place this in a saucepan of
boiling water, and warm it on the _bain marie_ principle just long
enough to take off its rawness; let it drain, and it will be ready for
colouring.

TO PRESERVE PARSLEY THROUGH THE WINTER.

496. Use freshly-gathered parsley for keeping, and wash it perfectly
free from grit and dirt; put it into boiling water which has been
slightly salted and well skimmed, and then let it boil for 2 or 3
minutes; take it out, let it drain, and lay it on a sieve in front of
the fire, when it should be dried as expeditiously as possible. Store it
away in a very dry place in bottles, and when wanted for use, pour over
it a little warm water, and let it stand for about 5 minutes.

_Seasonable_.--This may be done at any time between June and October.

AN EXCELLENT PICKLE.

497. INGREDIENTS.--Equal quantities of medium-sized onions, cucumbers,
and sauce-apples; 1-1/2 teaspoonful of salt, 3/4 teaspoonful of cayenne,
1 wineglassful of soy, 1 wineglassful of sherry; vinegar.

_Mode_.--Slice sufficient cucumbers, onions, and apples to fill a pint
stone jar, taking care to cut the slices very thin; arrange them in
alternate layers, shaking in as you proceed salt and cayenne in the
above proportion; pour in the soy and wine, and fill up with vinegar. It
will be fit for use the day it is made.

_Seasonable_ in August and September.

[This recipe was forwarded to the editress of this work by a subscriber
to the "Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine." Mrs. Beeton, not having
tested it, cannot vouch for its excellence; but the contributor spoke
very highly in its favour.]

SOY.--This is a sauce frequently made use of for fish, and comes
from Japan, where it is prepared from the seeds of a plant
called _Dolichos Soja_. The Chinese also manufacture it; but
that made by the Japanese is said to be the best. All sorts of
statements have been made respecting the very general
adulteration of this article in England, and we fear that many
of them are too true. When genuine, it is of an agreeable
flavour, thick, and of a clear brown colour.

PICKLED RED CABBAGE.

498. INGREDIENTS.--Red cabbages, salt and water; to each quart of
vinegar, 1/2 oz. of ginger well bruised, 1 oz. of whole black pepper,
and, when liked, a little cayenne.

_Mode_.--Take off the outside decayed leaves of a nice red cabbage, cut
it in quarters, remove the stalks, and cut it across in very thin
slices. Lay these on a dish, and strew them plentifully with salt,
covering them with another dish. Let them remain for 24 hours, turn into
a colander to drain, and, if necessary, wipe lightly with a clean soft
cloth. Put them in a jar; boil up the vinegar with spices in the above
proportion, and, when cold, pour it over the cabbage. It will be fit for
use in a week or two, and, if kept for a very long time, the cabbage is
liable get soft and to discolour. To be really nice and crisp, and of a
good red colour, it should be eaten almost immediately after it is made.
A little bruised cochineal boiled with the vinegar adds much to the
appearance of this pickle. Tie down with bladder, and keep in a dry
place.

_Seasonable_ in July and August, but the pickle will be much more crisp
if the frost has just touched the leaves.

RED CABBAGE.--This plant, in its growth, is similar in form to
that of the white, but is of a bluish-purple colour, which,
however, turns red on the application of acid, as is the case
with all vegetable blues. It is principally from the white
vegetable that the Germans make their _sauer kraut_; a dish held
in such high estimation with the inhabitants of Vaderland, but
which requires, generally speaking, with strangers, a long
acquaintance in order to become sufficiently impressed with its
numerous merits. The large red Dutch is the kind generally
recommended for pickling.

PLUM-PUDDING SAUCE.

499. INGREDIENTS.--1 wineglassful of brandy, 2 oz. of very fresh butter,
1 glass of Madeira, pounded sugar to taste.

_Mode_.--Put the pounded sugar in a basin, with part of the brandy and
the butter; let it stand by the side of the fire until it is warm and
the sugar and butter are dissolved; then add the rest of the brandy,
with the Madeira. Either pour it over the pudding, or serve in a tureen.
This is a very rich and excellent sauce.

_Average cost_, 1s. 3d. for this quantity.

_Sufficient_ for a pudding made for 6 persons.

QUIN'S SAUCE, an excellent Fish Sauce.

500. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of walnut pickle, 1/2 pint of port wine, 1
pint of mushroom ketchup, 1 dozen anchovies, 1 dozen shalots, 1/4 pint
of soy, 1/2 teaspoonful of cayenne.

_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients into a saucepan, having previously
chopped the shalots and anchovies very small; simmer for 15 minutes,
strain, and, when cold, bottle off for use: the corks should be well
sealed to exclude the air.

_Time_.--1/4 hour.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

RAVIGOTTE, a French Salad Sauce.

_Mons. Ude's Recipe_.

501. INGREDIENTS.--1 teaspoonful of mushroom ketchup, 1 teaspoonful of
cavice, 1 teaspoonful of Chili vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of Reading sauce,
a piece of butter the size of an egg, 3 tablespoonfuls of thick
Bechamel, No. 367, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 3 tablespoonfuls
of cream; salt and pepper to taste.

_Mode_.--Scald the parsley, mince the leaves very fine, and add it to
all the other ingredients; after mixing the whole together thoroughly,
the sauce will be ready for use.

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 10d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

READING SAUCE.

502. INGREDIENTS.--2-1/2 pints of walnut pickle, 1-1/2 oz. of shalots, 1
quart of spring water, 3/4 pint of Indian soy, 1/2 oz. of bruised
ginger, 1/2 oz. of long pepper, 1 oz. of mustard-seed, 1 anchovy, 1/2
oz. of cayenne, 1/4 oz. of dried sweet bay-leaves.

_Mode_.--Bruise the shalots in a mortar, and put them in a stone jar
with the walnut-liquor; place it before the fire, and let it boil until
reduced to 2 pints. Then, into another jar, put all the ingredients
except the bay-leaves, taking care that they are well bruised, so that
the flavour may be thoroughly extracted; put this also before the fire,
and let it boil for 1 hour, or rather more. When the contents of both
jars are sufficiently cooked, mix them together, stirring them well as
you mix them, and submit them to a slow boiling for 1/2 hour; cover
closely, and let them stand 24 hours in a cool place; then open the jar
and add the bay-leaves; let it stand a week longer closed down, when
strain through a flannel bag, and it will be ready for use. The above
quantities will make 1/2 gallon.

_Time_.--Altogether, 3 hours.

_Seasonable_.--This sauce may be made at any time.

REMOULADE, or FRENCH SALAD-DRESSING.

503. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs, 1/2 tablespoonful of made mustard, salt and
cayenne to taste, 3 tablespoonfuls of olive-oil, 1 tablespoonful of
tarragon or plain vinegar.

_Mode_.--Boil 3 eggs quite hard for about 1/4 hour, put them into cold
water, and let them remain in it for a few minutes; strip off the
shells, put the yolks in a mortar, and pound them very smoothly; add to
them, very gradually, the mustard, seasoning, and vinegar, keeping all
well stirred and rubbed down with the back of a wooden spoon. Put in the
oil drop by drop, and when this is thoroughly mixed with the other
ingredients, add the yolk of a raw egg, and stir well, when it will be
ready for use. This sauce should not be curdled; and to prevent this,
the only way is to mix a little of everything at a time, and not to
cease stirring. The quantities of oil and vinegar may be increased or
diminished according to taste, as many persons would prefer a smaller
proportion of the former ingredient.

GREEN REMOULADE is made by using tarragon vinegar instead of plain, and
colouring with a little parsley-juice, No. 495. Harvey's sauce, or Chili
vinegar, may be added at pleasure.

_Time_.--1/4 hour to boil the eggs.

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for a salad made for 4 or 6 persons.

[Illustration: TARRAGON.]

TARRAGON.--The leaves of this plant, known to naturalists as
_Artemisia dracunculus_, are much used in France as a flavouring
ingredient for salads. From it also is made the vinegar known as
tarragon vinegar, which is employed by the French in mixing
their mustard. It originally comes from Tartary, and does not
seed in France.

SAGE-AND-ONION STUFFING, for Geese, Ducks, and Pork.

504. INGREDIENTS.--4 large onions, 10 sage-leaves, 1/4 lb. of bread
crumbs, 1-1/2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 1 egg.

_Mode_.--Peel the onions, put them into boiling water, let them simmer
for 5 minutes or rather longer, and, just before they are taken out, put
in the sage-leaves for a minute or two to take off their rawness. Chop
both these very fine, add the bread, seasoning, and butter, and work the
whole together with the yolk of an egg, when the stuffing will be ready
for use. It should be rather highly seasoned, and the sage-leaves should
be very finely chopped. Many cooks do not parboil the onions in the
manner just stated, but merely use them raw. The stuffing then, however,
is not nearly so mild, and, to many tastes, its strong flavour would be
very objectionable. When made for goose, a portion of the liver of the
bird, simmered for a few minutes and very finely minced, is frequently
added to this stuffing; and where economy is studied, the egg may be
dispensed with.