The Book of Household Management - Mrs. Isabella Beeton
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[Illustration: SHORT-HORN COW.]
[Illustration: SHORT-HORN BULL.]
590. AMONG THE VARIOUS BREEDS OF THE OX, upon which man has bestowed his
highest powers of culture, there is now none takes a higher place than
that known by the name of Short-Horns. From the earliest ages, Great
Britain has been distinguished for the excellence of her native breeds
of cattle, and there are none in England that have obtained greater
celebrity than those which have this name, and which originated, about
seventy years ago, on the banks of the Tees. Thence they have spread
into the valleys of the Tweed; thence to the Lothians, in Scotland; and
southward, into the fine pastures of England. They are now esteemed the
most profitable breed of cattle, as there is no animal which attains
sooner to maturity, and none that supplies meat of a superior quality.
The value of some of the improved breeds is something enormous. At the
sale of Mr. Charles Colling, a breeder in Yorkshire, in 1810, his bull
"Comet" sold for 1,000 guineas. At the sale of Earl Spencer's herd in
1846, 104 cows, heifers, and calves, with nineteen bulls, fetched
L8,468. 5s.; being an average of L68. 17s. apiece. The value of such
animals is scarcely to be estimated by those who are unacquainted with
the care with which they are tended, and with the anxious attention
which is paid to the purity of their breed. A modern writer, well
acquainted with this subject, says, "There are now, at least, five
hundred herds, large and small, in this kingdom, and from six to seven
thousand head registered every alternate year in the herd-book." The
necessity for thus recording the breeds is greater than might, at first
sight, be imagined, as it tends directly to preserve the character of
the cattle, while it sometimes adds to the value and reputation of the
animal thus entered. Besides, many of the Americans, and large
purchasers for the foreign market, will not look at an animal without
the breeder has taken care to qualify him for such reference. Of
short-horned stock, there is annually sold from L40,000 to L50,000 worth
by public auction, independent of the vast numbers disposed of by
private contract. The brood is highly prized in Belgium, Prussia,
France, Italy, and Russia; it is imported into most of the British
colonies, and is greatly esteemed both for its meat and its dairy
produce, wherever it is known. The quickness with which it takes on
flesh, and the weight which it frequently makes, are well known; but we
may mention that it is not uncommon to tee steers of from four to five
years old realize a weight of from 800 to 1,000 lbs. Such animals
command from the butcher from L30 to L40 per head, according to the
quality; whilst others, of two or three years old, and, of course, of
less Weight, bring as much as L20 apiece.
[Illustration: LONG-HORN BULL.]
[Illustration: LONG-HORN COW.]
591. LONG-HORNS.--This is the prevailing breed in our midland counties
and in Ireland; but they are greatly inferior to the short-horns, and
are fast being supplanted by them. Even where they have been cultivated
with the nicest care and brought to the greatest perfection, they are
inferior to the others, and must ultimately be driven from the farm.
[Illustration: ALDERNEY COW.]
[Illustration: ALDERNEY BULL.]
592. THE ALDERNEY.--Among the dairy breeds of England, the Alderney
takes a prominent place, not on account of the quantity of milk which it
yields, but on account of the excellent quality of the cream and butter
which are produced from it. Its docility is marvellous, and in
appearance it greatly resembles the Ayrshire breed of Scotland, the
excellence of which is supposed to be, in some degree, derived from a
mixture of the Alderney blood with that breed. The distinction between
them, however, lies both in the quantity and quality of the milk which
they severally produce; that of the Alderney being rich in quality, and
that of the Ayrshire abundant in quantity. The merit of the former,
however, ends with its milk, for as a grazer it is worthless.
[Illustration: GALLOWAY BULL.]
[Illustration: GALLOWAY COW.]
593. SCOTTISH BREEDS.--Of these the Kyloe, which belongs to the
Highlands of Scotland; the Galloway, which has been called the Kyloe
without horns; and the Ayrshire, are the breeds most celebrated. The
first has kept his place, and on account of the compactness of his form,
and the excellent quality of his flesh, he is a great favourite with
butchers who have a select family trade. It is alike unsuitable for the
dairy and the arable farm; but in its native Highlands it attains to
great perfection, thriving upon the scanty and coarse herbage which it
gathers on the sides of the mountains. The Galloway has a larger frame,
and when fattened makes excellent beef. But it has given place to the
short-horns in its native district, where turnip-husbandry is pursued
with advantage. The Ayrshire is peculiarly adapted for the dairy, and
for the abundance of its milk cannot be surpassed in its native
district. In this it stands unrivalled, and there is no other breed
capable of converting the produce of a poor soil into such fine butter
and cheese. It is difficult to fatten, however, and its beef is of a
coarse quality. We have chosen these as among the principal
representative breeds of the ox species; but there are other breeds
which, at all events, have a local if not a general celebrity.
[Illustration: SIDE OF BEEF, SHOWING THE SEVERAL JOINTS.]
594. The general Mode of Slaughtering Oxen in this country is by
striking them a smart blow with a hammer or poleaxe on the head, a
little above the eyes. By this means, when the blow is skilfully given,
the beast is brought down at one blow, and, to prevent recovery, a cane
is generally inserted, by which the spinal cord is perforated, which
instantly deprives the ox of all sensation of pain. In Spain, and some
other countries on the continent, it is also usual to deprive oxen of
life by the operation of pithing or dividing the spinal cord in the
neck, close to the back part of the head. This is, in effect, the same
mode as is practised in the celebrated Spanish bull-fights by the
matador, and it is instantaneous in depriving the animal of sensation,
if the operator be skilful. We hope and believe that those men whose
disagreeable duty it is to slaughter the "beasts of the field" to
provide meat for mankind, inflict as little punishment and cause as
little suffering as possible.
595. THE MANNER IN WHICH A SIDE OF BEEF is cut up in London, is shown in
the engraving on this page. In the metropolis, on account of the large
number of its population possessing the means to indulge in the "best of
everything," the demand for the most delicate joints of meat is great,
the price, at the same time, being much higher for these than for the
other parts. The consequence is, that in London the carcass is there
divided so as to obtain the greatest quantity of meat on the most
esteemed joints. In many places, however, where, from a greater equality
in the social condition and habits of the inhabitants, the demand and
prices for the different parts of the carcasses are more equalized,
there is not the same reason for the butcher to cut the best joints so
large.
596. THE MEAT ON THOSE PARTS OF THE ANIMAL in which the muscles are
least called into action, is most tender and succulent; as, for
instance, along the back, from the rump to the hinder part of the
shoulder; whilst the limbs, shoulder, and neck, are the toughest,
driest, and least-esteemed.
597. THE NAMES OF THE SEVERAL JOINTS in the hind and fore quarters of a
side of beef, and the purposes for which they are used, are as
follows:--
HIND QUARTER.
1. Sirloin.--The two sirloins, cut together in one joint, form a baron;
this, when roasted, is the famous national dish of Englishmen, at
entertainments, on occasion of rejoicing.
2. Rump,--the finest part for steaks.
3. Aitch-bone,--boiling piece.
4. Buttock,--prime boiling piece.
5. Mouse-round,--boiling or stewing.
6. Hock,--stewing.
7. Thick flank, cut with the udder-fat,--primest boiling piece.
8. Thin flank,--boiling.
FORE QUARTER.
9. Five ribs, called the fore-rib.--This is considered the primest
roasting piece.
10. Four ribs, called the middle-rib,--greatly esteemed by housekeepers
as the most economical joint for roasting.
11. Two ribs, called the chuck-rib,--used for second quality of steaks.
12. Leg-of-mutton piece,--the muscles of the shoulder dissected from the
breast.
13. Brisket, or breast,--used for boiling, after being salted.
14. Neck, clod, and sticking-piece,--used for soups, gravies, stocks,
pies, and mincing for sausages.
15. Shin,--stewing.
The following is a classification of the qualities of meat, according to
the several joints of beef, when cut up in the London manner.
_First class_.--includes the sirloin, with the kidney suet (1), the
rump-steak piece (2), the fore-rib (9).
_Second class_.--The buttock (4), the thick flank (7), the middle-rib
(10).
_Third class_.--The aitch-bone (3), the mouse-round (5), the thin flank
(8), the chuck (11), the leg-of-mutton piece (12), the brisket (13).
_Fourth class_.--The neck, clod, and sticking-piece (14).
_Fifth class_.--The hock (6), the shin (15).
RECIPES.
CHAPTER XIII.
BAKED BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery).
I.
598. INGREDIENTS.--About 2 lbs. of cold roast beef, 2 small onions, 1
large carrot or two small ones, 1 turnip, a small bunch of savoury
herbs, salt and pepper to taste, 4 tablespoonfuls of gravy, 3
tablespoonfuls of ale, crust or mashed potatoes.
_Mode_.--Cut the beef in slices, allowing a small amount of fat to each
slice; place a layer of this in the bottom of a pie-dish, with a portion
of the onions, carrots, and turnips, which must be sliced; mince the
herbs, strew them over the meat, and season with pepper and salt. Then
put another layer of meat, vegetables, and seasoning; and proceed in
this manner until all the ingredients are used. Pour in the gravy and
ale (water may be substituted for the former, but it is not so nice),
cover with a crust or mashed potatoes, and bake for 1/2 hour, or rather
longer.
_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 hour.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Note_.--It is as well to parboil the carrots and turnips before adding
them to the meat, and to use some of the liquor in which they were
boiled as a substitute for gravy; that is to say, when there is no gravy
at hand. Be particular to cut the onions in very _thin_ slices.
II.
599. INGREDIENTS.--Slices of cold roast beef, salt and pepper to taste,
1 sliced onion, 1 teaspoonful of minced savoury herbs, 5 or 6
tablespoonfuls of gravy or sauce of any kind, mashed potatoes.
_Mode_.--Butter the sides of a deep dish, and spread mashed potatoes
over the bottom of it; on this place layers of beef in thin slices (this
may be minced if there is not sufficient beef to cut into slices), well
seasoned with pepper and salt, and a very little onion end herbs, which
should be previously fried of a nice brown; then put another layer of
mashed potatoes, and beef, and other ingredients, as before; pour in the
gravy or sauce, cover the whole with another layer of potatoes, and bake
for 1/2 hour. This may be served in the dish, or turned out.
_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold beef, 6d.
_Sufficient_.--A large pie-dish full for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
BEEF.--The quality of beef depends on various circumstances;
such as the age, the sex, the breed of the animal, and also on
the food upon which it has been raised. Bull beef is, in
general, dry and tough, and by no means possessed of an
agreeable flavour; whilst the flesh of the ox is not only highly
nourishing and digestible, but, if not too old, extremely
agreeable. The flesh of the cow is, also, nourishing, but it is
not so agreeable as that of the ox, although that of a heifer is
held in high estimation. The flesh of the smaller breeds is much
sweeter than that of the larger, which is best when the animal
is about seven years old. That of the smaller breeds is best at
about five years, and that of the cow can hardly be eaten too
young.
BAKED BEEF-STEAK PUDDING.
600. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of flour, 2 eggs, not quite 1 pint of milk,
salt to taste, 1-1/2 lb. of rump-steaks, 1 kidney, pepper and salt.
_Mode_.--Cut the steaks into nice square pieces, with a small quantity
of fat, and the kidney divide into small pieces. Make a batter of flour,
eggs, and milk in the above proportion; lay a little of it at the bottom
of a pie-dish; then put in the steaks and kidney, which should be well
seasoned with pepper and salt, and pour over the remainder of the
batter, and bake for 1-1/2 hour in a brisk but not fierce oven.
_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2s.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
BEEF A LA MODE.
(_Economical_.)
601. INGREDIENTS.--About 3 lbs. of clod or sticking of beef, 2 oz. of
clarified dripping, 1 large onion, flour, 2 quarts of water, 12 berries
of allspice, 2 bay-leaves, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole black pepper, salt
to taste.
_Mode_.--Cut the beef into small pieces, and roll them in flour; put the
dripping into a stewpan with the onion, which should be sliced thin. Let
it get quite hot; lay in the pieces of beef, and stir them well about.
When nicely browned all over, add _by degrees_ boiling water in the
above proportion, and, as the water is added, keep the whole well
stirred. Put in the spice, bay-leaves, and seasoning, cover the stewpan
closely, and set it by the side of the fire to stew very _gently_, till
the meat becomes quite tender, which will be in about 3 hours, when it
will be ready to serve. Remove the bay-leaves before it is sent to
table.
_Time_.--3 hours.
_Average cost_, 1s. 3d.
_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
BEEF A LA MODE.
602. INGREDIENTS.--6 or 7 lbs. of the thick flank of beef, a few slices
of fat bacon, 1 teacupful of vinegar, black pepper, allspice, 2 cloves
well mixed and finely pounded, making altogether 1 heaped teaspoonful;
salt to taste, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley, all finely
minced and well mixed; 3 onions, 2 large carrots, 1 turnip, 1 head of
celery, 1-1/2 pint of water, 1 glass of port wine.
_Mode_.--Slice and fry the onions of a pale brown, and cut up the other
vegetables in small pieces, and prepare the beef for stewing in the
following manner:--Choose a fine piece of beef, cut the bacon into long
slices, about an inch in thickness, dip them into vinegar, and then into
a little of the above seasoning of spice, &c., mixed with the same
quantity of minced herbs. With a sharp knife make holes deep enough to
let in the bacon; then rub the beef over with the remainder of the
seasoning and herbs, and bind it up in a nice shape with tape. Have
ready a well-tinned stewpan (it should not be much larger than the piece
of meat you are cooking), into which put the beef, with the vegetables,
vinegar, and water. Let it simmer _very gently_ for 5 hours, or rather
longer, should the meat not be extremely tender, and turn it once or
twice. When ready to serve, take out the beef, remove the tape, and put
it on a hot dish. Skim off every particle of fat from the gravy, add the
port wine, just let it boil, pour it over the beef, and it is ready to
serve. Great care must be taken that this does not boil fast, or the
meat will be tough and tasteless; it should only just bubble. When
convenient, all kinds of stews, &c., should be cooked on a hot-plate, as
the process is so much more gradual than on an open fire.
_Time_.--5 hours, or rather more.
_Average cost_, 7d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.
_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable for a winter dish.
GOOD MEAT.--The lyer of meat when freshly killed, and the
animal, when slaughtered, being in a state of perfect health,
adheres firmly to the bones. Beef of the best quality is of a
deep-red colour; and when the animal has approached maturity,
and been well fed, the lean is intermixed with fat, giving it
the mottled appearance which is so much esteemed. It is also
full of juice, which resembles in colour claret wine. The fat of
the best beef is of a firm and waxy consistency, of a colour
resembling that of the finest grass butter; bright in
appearance, neither greasy nor friable to the touch, but
moderately unctuous, in a medium degree between the
last-mentioned properties.
BEEF-STEAKS AND OYSTER SAUCE.
603. INGREDIENTS.--3 dozen oysters, ingredients for oyster sauce (see
No. 492), 2 lbs. of rump-steak, seasoning to taste of pepper and salt.
_Mode_.--Make the oyster sauce by recipe No. 492, and when that is
ready, put it by the side of the fire, but do not let it keep boiling.
Have the steaks cut of an equal thickness, broil them over a very clear
fire, turning them often, that the gravy may not escape. In about 8
minutes they will be done, then put them on a very hot dish; smother
with the oyster sauce, and the remainder send to table in a tureen.
Serve quickly.
_Time_.--About 8 to 10 minutes, according to the thickness of the steak.
_Average cost_, 1s. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.
_Seasonable_ from September to April.
BEEF-STEAK PIE.
604. INGREDIENTS.--3 lbs. of rump-steak, seasoning to taste of salt,
cayenne, and black pepper, crust, water, the yolk of an egg.
_Mode_.--Have the steaks cut from a rump that has hung a few days, that
they may be tender, and be particular that every portion is perfectly
sweet. Cut the steaks into pieces about 3 inches long and 2 wide,
allowing a _small_ piece of fat to each piece of lean, and arrange the
meat in layers in a pie-dish. Between each layer sprinkle a seasoning of
salt, pepper, and, when liked, a few grains of cayenne. Fill the dish
sufficiently with meat to support the crust, and to give it a nice
raised appearance when baked, and not to look flat and hollow. Pour in
sufficient water to half fill the dish, and border it with paste (see
Pastry); brush it over with a little water, and put on the cover;
slightly press down the edges with the thumb, and trim off close to the
dish. Ornament the pie with leaves, or pieces of paste cut in any shape
that fancy may direct, brush it over with the beaten yolk of an egg;
make a hole in the top of the crust, and bake in a hot oven for about
1-1/2 hour.
_Time_.--In a hot oven, 1-1/2 hour.
_Average cost_, for this size, 3s 6d.
_Sufficient_ for 6 or 8 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
Note.--Beef-steak pies may be flavoured in various ways, with oysters
and their liquor, mushrooms, minced onions, &c. For family pies, suet
may be used instead of butter or lard for the crust, and clarified
beef-dripping answers very well where economy is an object. Pieces of
underdone roast or boiled meat may in pies be used very advantageously;
but always remove the bone from pie-meat, unless it be chicken or game.
We have directed that the meat shall be cut smaller than is usually the
case; for on trial we have found it much more tender, more easily
helped, and with more gravy, than when put into the dish in one or two
large steaks.
[Illustration: SHERRY PUDDING DISH.]
BEEF-STEAK AND KIDNEY PUDDING.
605. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of rump-steak, 2 kidneys, seasoning to taste
of salt and black pepper, suet crust made with milk (see Pastry), in the
proportion of 6 oz. of suet to each 1 lb. of flour.
_Mode_.--Procure some tender rump steak (that which has been hung a
little time), and divide it into pieces about an inch square, and cut
each kidney into 8 pieces. Line the dish (of which we have given an
engraving) with crust made with suet and flour in the above proportion,
leaving a small piece of crust to overlap the edge. Then cover the
bottom with a portion of the steak and a few pieces of kidney; season
with salt and pepper (some add a little flour to thicken the gravy, but
it is not necessary), and then add another layer of steak, kidney, and
seasoning. Proceed in this manner till the dish is full, when pour in
sufficient water to come within 2 inches of the top of the basin.
Moisten the edges of the crust, cover the pudding over, press the two
crusts together, that the gravy may not escape, and turn up the
overhanging paste. Wring out a cloth in hot water, flour it, and tie up
the pudding; put it into boiling water, and let it boil for at least 4
hours. If the water diminishes, always replenish with some, hot in a
jug, as the pudding should be kept covered all the time, and not allowed
to stop boiling. When the cloth is removed, cut out a round piece in the
top of the crust, to prevent the pudding bursting, and send it to table
in the basin, either in an ornamental dish, or with a napkin pinned
round it. Serve quickly.
_Time_.--For a pudding with 2 lbs. of steak and 2 kidneys allow 4 hours.
_Average cost_, 2s. 8d.
_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable in winter.
Note.--Beef-steak pudding may be very much enriched by adding a few
oysters or mushrooms. The above recipe was contributed to this work by a
Sussex lady, in which county the inhabitants are noted for their savoury
puddings. It differs from the general way of making them, as the meat is
cut up into very small pieces and the basin is differently shaped: on
trial, this pudding will be found far nicer, and more full of gravy,
than when laid in large pieces in the dish.
BAD MEAT. In the flesh of animals slaughtered whilst suffering
acute inflammation or fever, the hollow fibres, or capillaries,
as they are called, which form the substance of the lyer, are
filled with congested and unassimilated animal fluid, which,
from its impurity, gives the lyer a dark colour, and produces a
tendency to rapid putrefaction. In a more advanced stage of such
disease, serous, and sometimes purulent matter, is formed in the
cellular tissues between the muscles of the flesh; and when such
is the case, nothing can be more poisonous than such abominable
carrion. In the flesh of animals killed whilst under the
influence of any disease of an emaciating effect, the lyer
adheres but slightly to the bones, with its fibres contracted
and dry; and the little fat that there may be is friable, and
shrunk within its integuments. The flesh of animals slaughtered
whilst under considerable depression of vital energy (as from
previous bleeding) has a diminished tendency to stiffen after
death, the feebleness of this tendency being in proportion to
the degree of depression. It presents, also, an unnatural blue
or pallid appearance, has a faint and slightly sour smell, and
soon becomes putrid. When an animal has died otherwise than by
slaughtering, its flesh is flaccid and clammy, emits a peculiar
faint and disagreeable smell, and, it need scarcely be added,
spontaneous decomposition proceeds very rapidly.
BEEF-STEAKS WITH FRIED POTATOES, or BIFTEK AUX POMMES-DE-TERRE (a la
mode Francaise).
606. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of steak, 8 potatoes, 1/4 lb. of butter, salt
and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of minced herbs.
_Mode_.--Put the butter into a frying or _saute_ pan, set it over the
fire, and let it get very hot; peel, and cut the potatoes into long thin
slices; put them into the hot butter, and fry them till of a nice brown
colour. Now broil the steaks over a bright clear fire, turning them
frequently, that every part may be equally done: as they should not be
thick, 5 minutes will broil them. Put the herbs and seasoning in the
butter the potatoes were fried in, pour it under the steak, and place
the fried potatoes round, as a garnish. To have this dish in perfection,
a portion of the fillet of the sirloin should be used, as the meat is
generally so much more tender than that of the rump, and the steaks
should be cut about 1/3 of an inch in thickness.
_Time_.--5 minutes to broil the steaks, and about the same time to fry
the potatoes. _Average cost_, 1s. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.
_Seasonable_ all the year; but not so good in warm weather, as the meat
cannot hang to get tender.
[Illustration: AITCH-BONE OF BEEF.]
BOILED AITCH-BONE OF BEEF.
607. INGREDIENTS.--Beef, water.
_Mode_.--After this joint has been in salt 5 or 6 days, it will be ready
for use, and will not take so long boiling: as a round, for it is not so
solid. Wash the meat, and, if too salt, soak it for a few hours,
changing the water once or twice, till the required freshness is
obtained. Put into a saucepan, or boiling-pot, sufficient water to cover
the meat; set it over the fire, and when it boils, plunge in the joint
(see No. 557), and let it boil up quickly. Now draw the pot to the side
of the fire, and let the process be very gradual, as the water must only
simmer, or the meat will be hard and tough. Carefully remove the scum
from the surface of the water, and continue doing this for a few minutes
after it first boils. Carrots and turnips are served with this dish, and
sometimes suet dumplings, which may be boiled with the beef. Garnish
with a few of the carrots and turnips, and serve the remainder in a
vegetable-dish.
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