The Book of Household Management - Mrs. Isabella Beeton
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_Time_.--An aitch-bone of 10 lbs., 2-1/2 hours after the water boils;
one of 20 lbs., 4 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. per lb.
_Sufficient_.--10 lbs. for 7 or 8 persons.
_Seasonable_ all the year, but best from September to March.
_Note_.--The liquor in which the meat has been boiled may be easily
converted into a very excellent pea-soup. It will require very few
vegetables, as it will be impregnated with the flavour of those boiled
with the meat.
THE ACTION OF SALT ON MEAT.--The manner in which salt acts in
preserving meat is not difficult to understand. By its strong
affinity, it, in the first place, extracts the juices from the
substance of meat in sufficient quantity to form a saturated
solution with the water contained in the juice, and the meat
then absorbs the saturated brine in place of the juice extracted
by the salt. In this way, matter incapable of putrefaction takes
the places of that portion in the meat which is most perishable.
Such, however, is not the only office of salt as a means of
preserving meat; it acts also by its astringency in contracting
the fibres of the muscles, and so excludes the action of air on
the interior of the substance of the meat. The last-mentioned
operation of salt as an antiseptic is evinced by the diminution
of the volume of meat to which it is applied. The astringent
action of _saltpetre_ on meat is much greater than that of salt,
and thereby renders meat to which it is applied very hard; but,
in small quantities, it considerably assists the antiseptic
action of salt, and also prevents the destruction of the florid
colour of meat, which is caused by the application of salt.
Thus, it will be perceived, from the foregoing statement, that
the application of salt and saltpetre diminishes, in a
considerable degree, the nutritive, and, to some extent, the
wholesome qualities of meat; and, therefore, in their use, the
quantity applied should be as small as possible, consistent with
the perfect preservation of the meat.
BOILED ROUND OF BEEF.
608. INGREDIENTS.--Beef, water.
_Mode_.--As a whole round of beef, generally speaking, is too large for
small families, and very seldom required, we here give the recipe for
dressing a portion of the silver side of the round. Take from 12 to 16
lbs., after it has been in salt about 10 days; just wash off the salt,
skewer it up in a nice round-looking form, and bind it with tape to keep
the skewers in their places. Put it in a saucepan of boiling water, as
in the preceding recipe, set it upon a good fire, and when it begins to
boil, carefully remove all scum from the surface, as, if this is not
attended to, it sinks on to the meat, and when brought to table,
presents a very unsightly appearance. When it is well skimmed, draw the
pot to the corner of the fire, and let it simmer very gently until done.
Remove the tape and skewers, which should be replaced by a silver one;
pour over a little of the pot-liquor, and garnish with carrots. (_See_
coloured plate 2.) Carrots, turnips, parsnips, and sometimes suet
dumplings, accompany this dish; and these may all be boiled with the
beef. The pot-liquor should be saved, and converted into pea-soup; and
the outside slices, which are generally hard, and of an uninviting
appearance, may be out off before being sent to table, and potted. These
make an excellent relish for the breakfast or luncheon table.
_Time_.--Part of a round of beef weighing 12 lbs., about 3 hours after
the water boils. _Average cost_, 8d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.
_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable for winter.
609. SOYER'S RECIPE FOR PRESERVING THE GRAVY IN SALT MEAT, WHEN IT IS TO
BE SERVED COLD.--Fill two tubs with cold water, into which throw a few
pounds of rough ice; and when the meat is done, put it into one of the
tubs of ice-water; let it remain 1 minute, when take out, and put it
into the other tub. Fill the first tub again with water, and continue
this process for about 20 minutes; then set it upon a dish, and let it
remain until quite cold. When cut, the fat will be as white as possible,
besides having saved the whole, of the gravy. If there is no ice, spring
water will answer the same purpose, but will require to be more
frequently changed.
_Note_.--The BRISKET and RUMP may be boiled by the above recipe; of
course allowing more or less time, according to the size of the joint.
BEEF CAKE.
610. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast beef; to each pound of cold
meat allow 1/4 lb. of bacon or ham; seasoning to taste of pepper and
salt, 1 small bunch of minced savoury herbs, 1 or 2 eggs.
_Mode_.--Mince the beef very finely (if underdone it will be better),
add to it the bacon, which must also be chopped very small, and mix well
together. Season, stir in the herbs, and bind with an egg, or 2 should 1
not be sufficient. Make it into small square cakes, about 1/2 inch
thick, fry them in hot dripping, and serve in a dish with good gravy
poured round them.
_Time_.--10 minutes.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
BROILED BEEF-STEAKS or RUMP-STEAKS.
611. INGREDIENTS.--Steaks, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, salt
to taste, 1 tablespoonful of good mushroom ketchup or Harvey's sauce.
_Mode_.--As the success of a good broil so much depends on the state of
the fire, see that it is bright and clear, and perfectly free from
smoke, and do not add any fresh fuel just before you require to use the
gridiron. Sprinkle a little salt over the fire, put on the gridiron for
a few minutes, to get thoroughly hot through; rub it with a piece of
fresh, suet, to prevent the meat from sticking, and lay on the steaks,
which should be cut of an equal thickness, about 3/4 of an inch, or
rather thinner, and level them by beating them as _little_ as possible
with a rolling-pin. Turn them frequently with steak-tongs (if these are
not at hand, stick a fork in the edge of the fat, that no gravy
escapes), and in from 8 to 10 minutes they will be done. Have ready a
very hot dish, into which put the ketchup, and, when liked, a little
minced shalot; dish up the steaks, rub them over with butter, and season
with pepper and salt. The exact time for broiling steaks must be
determined by taste, whether they are liked underdone or well done; more
than from 8 to 10 minutes for a steak 3/4 inch in thickness, we think,
would spoil and dry up the juices of the meat. Great expedition is
necessary in sending broiled steaks to table; and, to have them in
perfection, they should not be cooked till everything else prepared for
dinner has been dished up, as their excellence entirely depends on their
being served very hot. Garnish with scraped horseradish, or slices of
cucumber. Oyster, tomato, onion, and many other sauces, are frequent
accompaniments to rump-steak, but true lovers of this English dish
generally reject all additions but pepper and salt.
_Time_.--8 to 10 minutes.
_Average cost_, 1s. per lb.
_Sufficient_.--Allow 1/2 lb. to each person; if the party consist
entirely of gentlemen, 3/4 lb. will not be too much.
_Seasonable_ all the year, but not good in the height of summer, as the
meat cannot hang long enough to be tender.
DIFFERENT SEASONS FOR BEEF.--We have already stated (see No.
593) that the Scots breed of oxen, like the South-down in
mutton, stands first in excellence. It should be borne in mind,
however, that each county has its particular season, and that
the London and other large markets are always supplied by those
counties whose meat, from local circumstances, is in the best
condition at the time. Thus, the season in Norfolk, from which
the Scots come (these being the principal oxen bred by the
Norfolk and Suffolk graziers), commences about Christmas and
terminates about June, when this breed begins to fall off, their
place being taken by grass-fed oxen. A large quantity of most
excellent meat is sent to the "dead markets" from Scotland, and
some of the best London butchers are supplied from this source.
BROILED BEEF AND MUSHROOM SAUCE.
(Cold Meat Cookery).
612. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 dozen small button mushrooms, 1 oz. of butter,
salt and cayenne to taste, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, mashed
potatoes, slices of cold roast beef.
_Mode_.--Wipe the mushrooms free from grit with a piece of flannel, and
salt; put them in a stewpan with the butter, seasoning, and ketchup;
stir over the fire until the mushrooms are quite done, when pour it in
the middle of mashed potatoes, browned. Then place round the potatoes
slices of cold roast beef, nicely broiled, over a clear fire. In making
the mushroom sauce, the ketchup may be dispensed with, if there is
sufficient gravy.
_Time_.--1/4 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 8d.
_Seasonable_ from August to October.
BROILED BEEF AND OYSTER SAUCE (Cold Meat Cookery).
613. INGREDIENTS.--2 dozen oysters, 3 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 2 oz. of
butter, 1/2 teaspoonful of flour, cayenne and salt to taste, mashed
potatoes, a few slices of cold roast beef.
_Mode_.--Put the oysters in a stewpan, with their liquor strained; add
the cloves, mace, butter, flour, and seasoning, and let them simmer
gently for 5 minutes. Have ready in the centre of a dish round walls of
mashed potatoes, browned; into the middle pour the oyster sauce, quite
hot, and round the potatoes place, in layers, slices of the beef, which
should be previously broiled over a nice clear fire.
_Time_.--5 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s, 6d., exclusive of the cold meat.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ from September to April.
BROILED BEEF-BONES.
614. INGREDIENTS.--The bones of ribs or sirloin; salt, pepper, and
cayenne.
_Mode_.--Separate the bones, taking care that the meat on them is not
too thick in any part; sprinkle them well with the above seasoning, and
broil over a very clear fire. When nicely browned they are done; but do
not allow them to blacken.
TO DRESS A BULLOCK'S HEART.
615. INGREDIENTS.--1 heart, stuffing of veal forcemeat, No. 417.
_Mode_.--Put the heart into warm water to soak for 2 hours; then wipe it
well with a cloth, and, after cutting off the lobes, stuff the inside
with a highly-seasoned forcemeat (No. 417). Fasten it in, by means of a
needle and coarse thread; tie the heart up in paper, and set it before a
good fire, being very particular to keep it well basted, or it will eat
dry, there being very little of its own fat. Two or three minutes before
serving, remove the paper, baste well, and serve with good gravy and
red-currant jelly or melted butter. If the heart is very large, it will
require 2 hours, and, covered with a caul, may be baked as well as
roasted.
_Time_.--Large heart, 2 hours. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d.
_Sufficient_ for 6 or 8 persons.
_Seasonable_ all the year.
_Note_.--This is an excellent family dish, is very savoury, and, though
not seen at many good tables, may be recommended for its cheapness and
economy.
BUBBLE-AND-SQUEAK (Cold Meat Cookery).
616. INGREDIENTS.--A few thin slices of cold boiled beef; butter,
cabbage, 1 sliced onion, pepper and salt to taste.
_Mode_.--Fry the slices of beef gently in a little butter, taking care
not to dry them up. Lay them on a flat dish, and cover with fried
greens. The greens may be prepared from cabbage sprouts or green savoys.
They should be boiled till tender, well drained, minced, and placed,
till quite hot, in a frying-pan, with butter, a sliced onion, and
seasoning of pepper and salt. When the onion is done, it is ready to
serve.
_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold beef, 3d.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
[Illustration: COLLARED BEEF.]
COLLARED BEEF.
617. INGREDIENTS.--7 lbs. of the thin end of the flank of beef, 2 oz. of
coarse sugar, 6 oz. of salt, 1 oz, of saltpetre, 1 large handful of
parsley minced, 1 dessertspoonful of minced sage, a bunch of savoury
herbs, 1/2 teaspoonful of pounded allspice; salt and pepper to taste.
_Mode_.--Choose fine tender beef, but not too fat; lay it in a dish; rub
in the sugar, salt, and saltpetre, and let it remain in the pickle for a
week or ten days, turning and rubbing it every day. Then bone it, remove
all the gristle and the coarse skin of the inside part, and sprinkle it
thickly with parsley, herbs, spice, and seasoning in the above
proportion, taking care that the former are finely minced, and the
latter well pounded. Roll the meat up in a cloth as tightly as possible,
in the same shape as shown in the engraving; bind it firmly with broad
tape, and boil it gently for 6 hours. Immediately on taking it out of
the pot, put it under a good weight, without undoing it, and let it
remain until cold. This dish is a very nice addition to the
breakfast-table.
_Time_.--6 hours. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 4s.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Note_.--During the time the beef is in pickle, it should be kept cool,
and regularly rubbed and turned every day.
BEEF-COLLOPS.
618. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of rump-steak, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1 pint of
gravy (water may be substituted for this), salt and pepper to taste, 1
shalot finely minced, 1/2 pickled walnut, 1 teaspoonful of capers.
_Mode_.--Have the steak cut thin, and divide it in pieces about 3 inches
long; beat these with the blade of a knife, and dredge with flour. Put
them in a frying-pan with the butter, and let them fry for about 3
minutes; then lay them in a small stewpan, and pour over them the gravy.
Add a piece of butter, kneaded with a little flour, put in the seasoning
and all the other ingredients, and let the whole simmer, but not boil,
for 10 minutes. Serve in a hot covered dish.
_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
MINCED COLLOPS (an Entree).
619. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of rump-steak, salt and pepper to taste, 2 oz.
of butter, 1 onion minced, 1/4 pint of water, 1 tablespoonful of
Harvey's sauce, or lemon-juice, or mushroom ketchup; 1 small bunch of
savoury herbs.
_Mode_.--Mince the beef and onion very small, and fry the latter in
butter until of a pale brown. Put all the ingredients together in a
stewpan, and boil gently for about 10 minutes; garnish with sippets of
toasted bread, and serve very hot.
_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 2 or 3 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
CURRIED BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery).
620. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of tolerably lean cold roast or boiled
beef, 3 oz. of butter, 2 onions, 1 wineglassful of beer, 1
dessertspoonful of curry powder.
_Mode_.--Cut up the beef into pieces about 1 inch square, put the butter
into a stewpan with the onions sliced, and fry them of a lightly-brown
colour. Add all the other ingredients, and stir gently over a brisk fire
for about 10 minutes. Should this be thought too dry, more beer, or a
spoonful or two of gravy or water, may be added; but a good curry should
not be very thin. Place it in a deep dish, with an edging of dry boiled
rice, in the same manner as for other curries.
_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d.
_Seasonable_ in winter.
TO CLARIFY BEEF DRIPPING.
I.
621. Good and fresh dripping answers very well for basting everything
except game and poultry, and, when well clarified, serves for frying
nearly as well as lard; it should be kept in a cool place, and will
remain good some time. To clarify it, put the dripping into a basin,
pour over it boiling water, and keep stirring the whole to wash away the
impurities. Let it stand to cool, when the water and dirty sediment will
settle at the bottom of the basin. Remove the dripping, and put it away
in jars or basins for use.
ANOTHER WAY.
622. Put the dripping into a clean saucepan, and let it boil for a few
minutes over a slow fire, and be careful to skim it well. Let it stand
to cool a little, then strain it through a piece of muslin into jars for
use. Beef dripping is preferable to any other for cooking purposes, as,
with mutton dripping, there is liable to be a tallowy taste and smell.
ROAST FILLET OF BEEF (Larded).
623. INGREDIENTS.--About 4 lbs. of the inside fillet of the sirloin, 1
onion, a small bunch of parsley, salt and pepper to taste, sufficient
vinegar to cover the meat, glaze, Spanish sauce, No. 411.
_Mode_.--Lard the beef with bacon, and put it into a pan with sufficient
vinegar to cover it, with an onion sliced, parsley, and seasoning, and
let it remain in this pickle for 12 hours. Roast it before a nice clear
fire for about 1-1/4 hour, and, when done, glaze it. Pour some Spanish
sauce round the beef, and the remainder serve in a tureen. It may be
garnished with Spanish onions boiled and glazed.
_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. Average cost, exclusive of the sauce, 4s.
_Sufficient_ for 6 or 8 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
FRICANDEAU OF BEEF.
624. INGREDIENTS.--About 3 lbs. of the inside fillet of the sirloin (a
piece of the rump may be substituted for this), pepper and salt to
taste, 3 cloves, 2 blades of mace, 6 whole allspice, 1 pint of stock No.
105, or water, 1 glass of sherry, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, 2 shalots,
bacon.
_Mode_.--Cut some bacon into thin strips, and sprinkle over them a
seasoning of pepper and salt, mixed with cloves, mace, and allspice,
well pounded. Lard the beef with these, put it into a stewpan with the
stock or water, sherry, herbs, shalots, 2 cloves, and more pepper and
salt. Stew the meat gently until tender, when take it out, cover it
closely, skim off all the fat from the gravy, and strain it. Set it on
the fire, and boil, till it becomes a glaze. Glaze the larded side of
the beef with this, and serve on sorrel sauce, which is made as
follows:--Wash and pick some sorrel, and put it into a stewpan with only
the water that hangs about it. Keep stirring, to prevent its burning,
and when done, lay it in a sieve to drain. Chop it, and stew it with a
small piece of butter and 4 or 6 tablespoonfuls of good gravy, for an
hour, and rub it through a tammy. If too acid, add a little sugar; and a
little cabbage-lettuce boiled with the sorrel will be found an
improvement.
_Time_.--2 hours to gently stew the meat.
_Average cost_, for this quantity, 4s.
_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
FRIED SALT BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery).
625. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of cold salt beef, pepper to taste, 1/4
lb. of butter, mashed potatoes.
_Mode_.--Cut any part of cold salt beef into thin slices, fry them
gently in butter, and season with a little pepper. Have ready some very
hot mashed potatoes, lay the slices of beef on them, and garnish with 3
or 4 pickled gherkins. Cold salt beef, warmed in a little liquor from
mixed pickle, drained, and served as above, will be found good.
_Time_.--About 5 minutes. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
FRIED RUMP-STEAK.
626. INGREDIENTS.--Steaks, butter or clarified dripping.
_Mode_. Although broiling is a far superior method of cooking steaks to
frying them, yet, when the cook is not very expert, the latter mode may
be adopted; and, when properly done, the dish may really look very
inviting, and the flavour be good. The steaks should be cut rather
thinner than for broiling, and with a small quantity of fat to each. Put
some butter or clarified dripping into a frying-pan; let it get quite
hot, then lay in the steaks. Turn them frequently until done, which will
be in about 8 minutes, or rather more, should the steaks be very thick.
Serve on a very hot dish, in which put a small piece of butter and a
tablespoonful of ketchup, and season with pepper and salt. They should
be sent to table quickly, as, when cold, the steaks are entirely
spoiled.
_Time_.--8 minutes for a medium-sized steak, rather longer for a very
thick one.
_Average cost_, 1s. per lb.
_Seasonable all the year, but not good in summer, as the meat cannot
hang to get tender._
_Note_.--Where much gravy is liked, make it in the following manner:--As
soon as the steaks are done, dish them, pour a little boiling water into
the frying-pan, add a seasoning of pepper and salt, a small piece of
butter, and a tablespoonful of Harvey's sauce or mushroom ketchup. Hold
the pan over the fire for a minute or two, just let the gravy simmer,
then pour on the steak, and serve.
A FRENCHMAN'S OPINION OF BEEF. The following is translated from
a celebrated modern French work, the production of one who in
Paris enjoys a great reputation as cook and chemist:--The flesh
of the ox, to be in the best condition, should be taken from an
animal of from four to six years old, and neither too fat nor
too lean. This meat, which possesses in the highest degree the
most nutritive qualities, is generally easily digested; stock is
made from it, and it is eaten boiled, broiled, roasted, stewed,
braised, and in a hundred other different ways. Beef is the
foundation of stock, gravies, braises, &c.; its nutritious and
succulent gravy gives body and flavour to numberless ragouts. It
is an exhaustless mine in the hands of a skilful artist, and is
truly the king of the kitchen. Without it, no soup, no gravy;
and its absence would produce almost a famine in the civilized
world!
BEEF FRITTERS (Cold Meat Cookery).
627. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast beef, pepper and salt to
taste, 3/4 lb. of flour, 1/2 pint of water, 2 oz. of butter, the whites
of 2 eggs.
_Mode_.--Mix very smoothly, and by degrees, the flour with the above
proportion of water; stir in 2 oz. of butter, which must be melted, but
not oiled, and, just before it is to be used, add the whites of two
well-whisked eggs. Should the batter be too thick, more water must be
added. Pare down the cold beef into thin shreds, season with pepper and
salt, and mix it with the batter. Drop a small quantity at a time into a
pan of boiling lard, and fry from 7 to 10 minutes, according to the
size. When done on one side, turn and brown them on the other. Let them
dry for a minute or two before the fire, and serve on a folded napkin. A
small quantity of finely-minced onions, mixed with the batter, is an
improvement.
_Time_.--From 7 to 10 minutes.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d. _Seasonable_ at any time.
HASHED BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery).
I.
628. INGREDIENTS.--Gravy saved from the meat, 1 teaspoonful of tomato
sauce, 1 teaspoonful of Harvey's sauce, 1 teaspoonful of good mushroom
ketchup, 1/2 glass of port wine or strong ale, pepper and salt to taste,
a little flour to thicken, 1 onion finely minced, a few slices of cold
roast beef.
_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients but the beef into a stewpan with
whatever gravy may have been saved from the meat the day it was roasted;
let these simmer gently for 10 minutes, then take the stewpan off the
fire; let the gravy cool, and skim off the fat. Cut the beef into thin
slices, dredge them with flour, and lay them in the gravy; let the whole
simmer gently for 5 minutes, but not boil, or the meat will be tough and
hard. Serve very hot, and garnish with sippets of toasted bread.
_Time_.--20 minutes. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 4d.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
II.
629. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of ribs or sirloin of beef, 2 onions, 1
carrot, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 1/2 blade of
pounded mace, thickening of flour, rather more than 1 pint of water.
_Mode_.--Take off all the meat from the bones of ribs or sirloin of
beef; remove the outside brown and gristle; place the meat on one side,
and well stew the bones and pieces, with the above ingredients, for
about 2 hours, till it becomes a strong gravy, and is reduced to rather
more than 1/2 pint; strain this, thicken with a teaspoonful of flour,
and let the gravy cool; skim off all the fat; lay in the meat, let it
get hot through, but do not allow it to boil, and garnish with sippets
of toasted bread. The gravy may be flavoured as in the preceding recipe.
_Time_.--Rather more than 2 hours.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 2d.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Note_.--Either of the above recipes may be served in walls of mashed
potatoes browned; in which case the sippets should be omitted. Be
careful that hashed meat does not boil, or it will become tough.
TO PREPARE HUNG BEEF.
630. This is preserved by salting and drying, either with or without
smoke. Hang up the beef 3 or 4 days, till it becomes tender, but take
care it does not begin to spoil; then salt it in the usual way, either
by dry-salting or by brine, with bay-salt, brown sugar, saltpetre, and a
little pepper and allspice; afterwards roll it tight in a cloth, and
hang it up in a warm, but not hot place, for a fortnight or more, till
it is sufficiently hard. If required to have a little of the smoky
flavour, it may be hung for some time in a chimney-corner, or smoked in
any other way: it will keep a long time.
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