The Book of Household Management - Mrs. Isabella Beeton
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HUNTER'S BEEF.
631. INGREDIENTS.--For a round of beef weighing 25 lbs. allow 3 oz. of
saltpetre, 3 oz. of coarse sugar, 1 oz. of cloves, 1 grated nutmeg, 1/2
oz. of allspice, 1 lb. of salt, 1/2 lb. bay-salt.
_Mode_.--Let the beef hang for 2 or 3 days, and remove the bone. Pound
spices, salt, &c. in the above proportion, and let them be reduced to
the finest powder. Put the beef into a pan, rub all the ingredients well
into it, and turn and rub it every day for rather more than a fortnight.
When it has been sufficiently long in pickle, wash the meat, bind it up
securely with tape, and put it into a pan with 1/2 pint of water at the
bottom; mince some suet, cover the top of the meat with it, and over the
pan put a common crust of flour and water; bake for 6 hours, and, when
cold, remove the paste. Save the gravy that flows from it, as it adds
greatly to the flavour of hashes, stews, &c. The beef may be glazed and
garnished with meat jelly.
_Time_.--6 hours.
_Seasonable_ all the year.
_Note_.--In salting or pickling beef or pork for family consumption, it
not being generally required to be kept for a great length of time, a
less quantity of salt and a larger quantity of other matters more
adapted to retain mellowness in meat, may be employed, which could not
be adopted by the curer of the immense quantities of meat required to be
preserved for victualling the shipping of this maritime country. Sugar,
which is well known to possess the preserving principle in a very great
degree, without the pungency and astringency of salt, may be, and is,
very generally used in the preserving of meat for family consumption.
Although it acts without corrugating or contracting the fibres of meat,
as is the case in the action of salt, and, therefore, does not impair
its mellowness, yet its use in sufficient quantities for preservative
effect, without the addition of other antiseptics, would impart a
flavour not agreeable to the taste of many persons. It may be used,
however, together with salt, with the greatest advantage in imparting
mildness and mellowness to cured meat, in a proportion of about one part
by weight to four of the mixture; and, perhaps, now that sugar is so
much lower in price than it was in former years, one of the obstructions
to its more frequent use is removed.
TO DRESS BEEF KIDNEY.
I.
632. INGREDIENTS.--1 kidney, clarified butter, pepper and salt to taste,
a small quantity of highly-seasoned gravy, 1 tablespoonful of
lemon-juice, 1/4 teaspoonful of powdered sugar.
_Mode_.--Cut the kidneys into neat slices, put them into warm water to
soak for 2 hours, and change the water 2 or 3 times; then put them on a
clean cloth to dry the water from them, and lay them in a frying-pan
with some clarified butter, and fry them of a nice brown; season each
side with pepper and salt, put them round the dish, and the gravy in the
middle. Before pouring the gravy in the dish, add the lemon-juice and
sugar.
_Time_.--From 5 to 10 minutes. _Average cost_, 9d. each.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
II.
633. INGREDIENTS.--1 kidney, 1 dessertspoonful of minced parsley, 1
teaspoonful of minced shalot, salt and pepper to taste, 1/4 pint of
gravy, No. 438, 3 tablespoonfuls of sherry.
_Mode_.--Take off a little of the kidney fat, mince it very fine, and
put it in a frying-pan; slice the kidney, sprinkle over it parsley and
shalots in the above proportion, add a seasoning of pepper and salt, and
fry it of a nice brown. When it is done enough, dredge over a little
flour, and pour in the gravy and sherry. Let it just simmer, but not
boil any more, or the kidney would harden; serve very hot, and garnish
with croutons. Where the flavour of the shalot is disliked, it may be
omitted, and a small quantity of savoury herbs substituted for it.
_Time_.--From 5 to 10 minutes, according to the thickness of the slices.
_Average cost_, 9d. each. _Sufficient_ for 3 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
III.
_A more Simple Method_.
634. Cut the kidney into thin slices, flour them, and fry of a nice
brown. When done, make a gravy in the pan by pouring away the fat,
putting in a small piece of butter, 1/4 pint of boiling water, pepper
and salt, and a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup. Let the gravy just
boil up, pour over the kidney, and serve.
BOILED MARROW-BONES.
635. INGREDIENTS.--Bones, a small piece of common paste, a floured
cloth.
_Mode_.--Have the bones neatly sawed into convenient sizes, and cover
the ends with a small piece of common crust, made with flour and water.
Over this tie a floured cloth, and place them upright in a saucepan of
boiling water, taking care there is sufficient to cover the bones. Boil
them for 2 hours, remove the cloth and paste, and serve them upright on
a napkin with dry toast. Many persons clear the marrow from the bones
after they are cooked, spread it over a slice of toast and add a
seasoning of pepper; when served in this manner, it must be very
expeditiously sent to table, as it so soon gets cold.
_Time_.--2 hours.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Note_.--Marrow-bones may be baked after preparing them as in the
preceding recipe; they should be laid in a deep dish, and baked for 2
hours.
[Illustration: MARROW-BONES.]
MARROW-BONES.--Bones are formed of a dense cellular tissue of
membranous matter, made stiff and rigid by insoluble earthy
salts; of which, phosphate of lime is the most abundant. In a
large bone, the insoluble matter is generally deposited in such
a manner as to leave a cavity, into which a fatty substance,
distinguished by the name of marrow, is thrown. Hollow
cylindrical bones possess the qualities of strength and
lightness in a remarkable degree. If bones were entirely solid,
they would be unnecessarily heavy; and if their materials were
brought into smaller compass, they would be weaker, because the
strength of a bone is in proportion to the distance at which its
fibres are from the centre. Some animals, it must, however, be
observed, have no cavities in the centre of their bones; such as
the whale tribe, skate, and turtles.
MINCED BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery).
636. INGREDIENTS.--1 oz. of butter, 1 small onion, 2 tablespoonfuls of
gravy left from the meat, 1 tablespoonful of strong ale, 1/2 a
teaspoonful of flour, salt and pepper to taste, a few slices of lean
roast beef.
_Mode_.--Put into a stewpan the butter with an onion chopped fine; add
the gravy, ale, and 1/2 a teaspoonful of flour to thicken; season with
pepper and salt, and stir these ingredients over the fire until the
onion is a rich brown. Cut, but do not chop the meat _very fine_, add it
to the gravy, stir till quite hot, and serve. Garnish with sippets of
toasted bread. Be careful in not allowing the gravy to boil after the
meat is added, as it would render it hard and tough.
_Time_.--About 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 3d.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
MIROTON OF BEEF.
637. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of cold roast beef, 3 oz. of butter,
salt and pepper to taste, 3 onions, 1/2 pint of gravy.
_Mode_.--Slice the onions and put them into a frying-pan with the cold
beef and butter; place it over the fire, and keep turning and stirring
the ingredients to prevent them burning. When of a pale brown, add the
gravy and seasoning; let it simmer for a few minutes, and serve very
hot. This dish is excellent and economical.
_Time_.--5 minutes. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
STEWED OX-CHEEK.
638. INGREDIENTS.--1 cheek, salt and water, 4 or 5 onions, butter and
flour, 6 cloves, 3 turnips, 2 carrots, 1 bay-leaf, 1 head of celery, 1
bunch of savoury herbs, cayenne, black pepper and salt to taste, 1 oz.
of butter, 2 dessertspoonfuls of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of Chili
vinegar, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, 2 tablespoonfuls of port
wine, 2 tablespoonfuls of Harvey's sauce.
_Mode_.--Have the cheek boned, and prepare it the day before it is to be
eaten, by cleaning and putting it to soak all night in salt and water.
The next day, wipe it dry and clean, and put it into a stewpan. Just
cover it with water, skim well when it boils, and let it gently simmer
till the meat is quite tender. Slice and fry 3 onions in a little butter
and flour, and put them into the gravy; add 2 whole onions, each stuck
with 3 cloves, 3 turnips quartered, 2 carrots sliced, a bay-leaf, 1 head
of celery, a bunch of herbs, and seasoning to taste of cayenne, black
pepper, and salt. Let these stew till perfectly tender; then take out
the cheek, divide into pieces fit to help at table, skim and strain the
gravy, and thicken 1-1/2 pint of it with butter and flour in the above
proportions. Add the vinegar, ketchup, and port wine; put in the pieces
of cheek; let the whole boil up, and serve quite hot. Send it to table
in a ragout-dish. If the colour of the gravy should not be very good,
add a tablespoonful of the browning, No. 108.
_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, 3d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
FRIED OX-FEET, or COW-HEEL.
639. INGREDIENTS.--Ox-feet, the yolk of 1 egg, bread crumbs, parsley,
salt and cayenne to taste, boiling butter.
_Mode_.--Wash, scald, and thoroughly clean the feet, and cut them into
pieces about 2 inches long; have ready some fine bread crumbs mixed with
a little minced parsley, cayenne, and salt; dip the pieces of heel into
the yolk of egg, sprinkle them with the bread crumbs, and fry them until
of a nice brown in boiling butter.
_Time_.-1 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. each.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
Note.--Ox-feet may be dressed in various ways, stowed in gravy or
plainly boiled and served with melted butter. When plainly boiled, the
liquor will answer for making sweet or relishing jellies, and also to
give richness to soups or gravies.
STEWED OX-TAILS.
640. INGREDIENTS.--2 ox-tails, 1 onion, 3 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 1
teaspoonful of whole black pepper, 1 teaspoonful of allspice, 1/2 a
teaspoonful of salt, a small bunch of savoury herbs, thickening of
butter and flour, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful of
mushroom ketchup.
_Mode_.--Divide the tails at the joints, wash, and put them into a
stewpan with sufficient water to cover them, and set them on the fire;
when the water boils, remove the scum, and add the onion cut into rings,
the spice, seasoning, and herbs. Cover the stewpan closely, and let the
tails simmer very gently until tender, which will be in about 2-1/2
hours. Take them out, make a thickening of butter and flour, add it to
the gravy, and let it boil for 1/4 hour. Strain it through a sieve into
a saucepan, put back the tails, add the lemon-juice and ketchup; let the
whole just boil up, and serve. Garnish with croutons or sippets of
toasted bread.
_Time_.--2-1/2 hours to stew the tails.
_Average cost_, 9d. to 1s. 6d., according to the season.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
_Seasonable_ all the year.
THE TAILS OF ANIMALS.--In the class Mammalia, the vertebral
column or backbone presents only slight modifications, and
everywhere shows the same characteristics as in man, who stands
at the head of this division of the animal kingdom. The length
of this column, however, varies much, and the number of
vertebrae of which it is composed is far from being uniform.
These numerical differences principally depend on the unequal
development of the caudal portion, or tail-end, of the column.
Thus, the tail-forming vertebrae sometimes do not exist at
all,--amongst certain bats for example; in other instances we
reckon forty, fifty, and even upwards of sixty of these bones.
Among the greater number of mammals, the tail is of little use
for locomotion, except that it acts in many cases as does the
rudder of a ship, steadying the animal in his rapid movements,
and enabling him to turn more easily and quickly. Among some
animals, it becomes a very powerful instrument of progression.
Thus, in the kangaroos and jerboas, the tail forms, with the
hind feet, a kind of tripod from which the animal makes its
spring. With most of the American monkeys it is prehensile, and
serves the animal as a fifth hand to suspend itself from the
branches of trees; and, lastly, among the whales, it grows to an
enormous size, and becomes the principal instrument for
swimming.
A PICKLE FOR TONGUES OR BEEF (Newmarket Recipe).
641. INGREDIENTS.--1 gallon of soft water, 3 lbs. of coarse salt, 6 oz.
of coarse brown sugar, 1/2 oz. of saltpetre.
_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients into a saucepan, and let them boil for
1/2 hour, clear off the scum as it rises, and when done pour the pickle
into a pickling-pan. Let it get cold, then put in the meat, and allow it
to remain in the pickle from 8 to 14 days, according to the size. It
will keep good for 6 months if well boiled once a fortnight. Tongues
will take 1 month or 6 weeks to be properly cured; and, in salting meat,
beef and tongues should always be put in separate vessels.
_Time_.--A moderate-sized tongue should remain in the pickle about a
month, and be turned every day.
[Illustration: POTTING-JAR.]
POTTED BEEF.
I.
642. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of lean beef, 1 tablespoonful of water, 1/4
lb. of butter, a seasoning to taste of salt, cayenne, pounded mace, and
black pepper.
_Mode_.--Procure a nice piece of lean beef, as free as possible from
gristle, skin, &c., and put it into a jar (if at hand, one with a lid)
with 1 tablespoonful of water. Cover it _closely_, and put the jar into
a saucepan of boiling water, letting the water come within 2 inches of
the top of the jar. Boil gently for 3-1/2 hours, then take the beef,
chop it very small with a chopping-knife, and pound it thoroughly in a
mortar. Mix with it by degrees all, or a portion, of the gravy that will
have run from it, and a little clarified butter; add the seasoning, put
it in small pots for use, and cover with a little butter just warmed and
poured over. If much gravy is added to it, it will keep but a short
time; on the contrary, if a large proportion of butter is used, it may
be preserved for some time.
_Time_.--3-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 1s. 8d.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
POTTED BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery).
II.
643. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast or boiled beef, 1/4 lb. of
butter, cayenne to taste, 2 blades of pounded mace.
_Mode_.--As we have stated in recipe No. 608, the outside slices of
boiled beef may, with a little trouble, be converted into a very nice
addition to the breakfast-table. Cut up the meat into small pieces and
pound it well, with a little butter, in a mortar; add a seasoning of
cayenne and mace, and be very particular that the latter ingredient is
reduced to the finest powder. When all the ingredients are thoroughly
mixed, put it into glass or earthen potting-pots, and pour on the top a
coating of clarified butter.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Note_.--If cold roast beef is used, remove all pieces of gristle and
dry outside pieces, as these do not pound well.
PRESERVED MEATS.--When an organic substance, like the flesh of
animals, is heated to the boiling-point, it loses the property
of passing into a state of fermentation and decay. Fresh animal
milk, as is well known, coagulates, after having been kept for
two or three days, into a gelatinous mass; but it may be
preserved for an indefinite period, as a perfectly sweet liquid,
if it be heated daily to the boiling-point. The knowledge of
this effect of an elevated temperature has given rise to a most
important branch of industry,--namely, the preparation of
preserved meats for the use of the navy and merchant service. At
Leith, in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh, at Aberdeen, at
Bordeaux, at Marseilles, and in many parts of Germany,
establishments of enormous magnitude exist, in which soup,
vegetables, and viands of every description are prepared, in
such a manner that they retain their freshness for years. The
prepared aliments are inclosed in canisters of tinned iron
plate, the covers are soldered air-tight, and the canisters
exposed to the temperature of boiling water for three or four
hours. The aliments thus acquire a stability, which one may
almost say is eternal; and when a canister is opened, after the
lapse of several years, its contents are found to be unaltered
in taste, colour, and smell. We are indebted to the French
philosopher Gay-Lussac for this beautiful practical application
of the discovery that boiling checks fermentation. An exclusive
salt-meat diet is extremely injurious to the health; and, in
former times, thousands of mariners lost their lives for the
want of fresh aliments during long voyages. We are sorry to say
that the preserved meats are sometimes carelessly prepared, and,
though the statement seems incredible, sometimes adulterated.
Dr. Lankester, who has done so much to expose the frauds of
trade, that he ought to be regarded as a public benefactor, says
that he has seen things which were utterly unfit for food,
shipped as preserved meats. Surely, as he observes, there ought
to be some superintendent to examine the so-called articles of
food that are taken on board ship, so that the poor men who have
been fighting our battles abroad may run no risk of being
starved or poisoned on their way home.
RIB OF BEEF BONES.
(_A Pretty Dish_.)
644. INGREDIENTS.--Rib of beef bones, 1 onion chopped fine, a few slices
of carrot and turnip, 1/4 pint of gravy.
_Mode_.--The bones for this dish should have left on them a slight
covering of meat; saw them into pieces 3 inches long; season them with
pepper and salt, and put them into a stewpan with the remaining
ingredients. Stew gently, until the vegetables are tender, and serve on
a flat dish within walls of mashed potatoes.
_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the bones, 2d.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
BEEF RISSOLES (Cold Meat Cookery).
645. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast beef; to each pound of meat
allow 3/4 lb. of bread crumbs, salt and pepper to taste, a few chopped
savoury herbs, 1/2 a teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 1 or 2 eggs,
according to the quantity of meat.
_Mode_.--Mince the beef very fine, which should be rather lean, and mix
with this bread crumbs, herbs, seasoning, and lemon-peel, in the above
proportion, to each pound of meat. Make all into a thick paste with 1 or
2 eggs; divide into balls or cones, and fry a rich brown. Garnish the
dish with fried parsley, and send with them to table some good brown
gravy in a tureen. Instead of garnishing with fried parsley, gravy may
be poured in the dish, round the rissoles: in this case, it will not be
necessary to send any in a tureen.
_Time_.--From 5 to 10 minutes, according to size.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 5d.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
ROLLED BEEF, to eat like Hare.
646. INGREDIENTS.--About 5 lbs. of the inside of the sirloin, 2 glasses
of port wine, 2 glasses of vinegar, a small quantity of forcemeat (No.
417), 1 teaspoonful of pounded allspice.
_Mode_.--Take the inside of a large sirloin, soak it in 1 glass of port
wine and 1 glass of vinegar, mixed, and let it remain for 2 days. Make a
forcemeat by recipe No. 417, lay it on the meat, and bind it up
securely. Roast it before a nice clear fire, and baste it with 1 glass
each of port wine and vinegar, with which mix a teaspoonful of pounded
allspice. Serve, with a good gravy in the dish, and send red-currant
jelly to table with it.
_Time_.--A piece of 5 lbs. about 1-1/2 hour before a brisk fire.
_Average cost_, for this quantity, 5s. 4d.
_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
BEEF ROLLS (Cold Meat Cookery).
647. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast or boiled beef, seasoning
to taste of salt, pepper, and minced herbs; puff paste.
_Mode_.--Mince the beef tolerably fine with a small amount of its own
fat; add a seasoning of pepper, salt, and chopped herbs; put the whole
into a roll of puff paste, and bake for 1/2 hour, or rather longer,
should the roll be very large. Beef patties may be made of cold meat, by
mincing and seasoning beef as directed above, and baking in a rich puff
paste in patty-tins.
_Time_,--1/2 hour.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
MINIATURE ROUND OF BEEF. (_An Excellent Dish for a Small Family_.)
648. INGREDIENTS.--From 5 to 10 lbs. of rib of beef, sufficient brine to
cover the meat.
_Mode_.--Choose a fine rib, have the bone removed, rub some salt over
the inside, and skewer the meat up into a nice round form, and bind it
with tape. Put it into sufficient brine to cover it (the brine should be
made by recipe No. 654), and let it remain for 6 days, turning the meat
every day. When required to be dressed, drain from the pickle, and put
the meat into very hot water; let it boil rapidly for a few minutes,
when draw the pot to the side of the fire, and let it simmer very gently
until done. Remove the skewer, and replace it by a plated or silver one.
Carrots and turnips should be served with this dish, and may be boiled
with the meat.
_Time_.--A small round of 8 lbs., about 2 hours after the water boils;
one of 12 lbs., about 3 hours.
_Average cost_, 9d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Note_.--Should the joint be very small, 4 or 5 days will be sufficient
time to salt it.
BRISKET OF BEEF, a la Flamande.
649. INGREDIENTS.--About 6 or 8 lbs. of the brisket of beef, 4 or 5
slices of bacon, 2 carrots, 1 onion, a bunch of savoury herbs, salt and
pepper to taste, 4 cloves, 4 whole allspice, 2 blades of mace.
_Mode_.--Choose that portion of the brisket which contains the gristle,
trim it, and put it into a stewpan with the slices of bacon, which
should be put under and over the meat. Add the vegetables, herbs,
spices, and seasoning, and cover with a little weak stock or water;
close the stewpan as hermetically as possible, and simmer very gently
for 4 hours. Strain the liquor, reserve a portion of it for sauce, and
the remainder boil quickly over a sharp fire until reduced to a glaze,
with which glaze the meat. Garnish the dish with scooped carrots and
turnips, and when liked, a little cabbage; all of which must be cooked
separately. Thicken and flavour the liquor that was saved for sauce,
pour it round the meat, and serve. The beef may also be garnished with
glazed onions, artichoke-bottoms, &c.
_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, 7d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 6 or 8 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
FRENCH BEEF.--It has been all but universally admitted, that the
beef of France is greatly inferior in quality to that of
England, owing to inferiority of pasturage. M. Curmer, however,
one of the latest writers on the culinary art, tells us that
this is a vulgar error, and that French beef is far superior to
that of England. This is mere vaunting on the part of our
neighbours, who seem to want _la gloire_ in everything; and we
should not deign to notice it, if it had occurred in a work of
small pretensions; but M. Curmer's book professes to be a
complete exposition of the scientific principles of cookery, and
holds a high rank in the didactic literature of France. We half
suspect that M. Curmer obtained his knowledge of English beef in
the same way as did the poor Frenchman, whom the late Mr.
Mathews, the comedian, so humorously described. Mr. Lewis, in
his "Physiology of Common Life," has thus revived the story of
the beef-eating son of France:--"A Frenchman was one day blandly
remonstrating against the supercilious scorn expressed by
Englishmen for the beef of France, which he, for his part, did
not find so inferior to that of England. 'I have been two times
in England,' he remarked, but I nevere find the bif so superieur
to ours. I find it vary conveenient that they bring it you on
leetle pieces of stick, for one penny: but I do not find the bif
superieur.' On hearing this, the Englishman, red with
astonishment, exclaimed, 'Good heavens, sir! you have been
eating cat's meat.'" No, M. Curmer, we are ready to acknowledge
the superiority of your cookery, but we have long since made up
our minds as to the inferiority of your raw material.
BEEF OLIVES.
I.
650. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of rump-steak, 1 egg, 1 tablespoonful of
minced savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 1 pint of stock, No.
105, 2 or 3 slices of bacon, 2 tablespoonfuls of any store sauce, a
slight thickening of butter and flour.
_Mode_.--Have the steaks cut rather thin, slightly beat them to make
them level, cut them into 6 or 7 pieces, brush over with egg, and
sprinkle with herbs, which should be very finely minced; season with
pepper and salt, and roll up the pieces tightly, and fasten with a small
skewer. Put the stock in a stewpan that will exactly hold them, for by
being pressed together, they will keep their shape better; lay in the
rolls of meat, cover them with the bacon, cut in thin slices, and over
that put a piece of paper. Stew them very _gently_ for full 2 hours; for
the slower they are done the better. Take them out, remove the skewers,
thicken the gravy with butter and flour, and flavour with any store
sauce that may be preferred. Give one boil, pour over the meat, and
serve.
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