The Book of Household Management - Mrs. Isabella Beeton
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[Illustration: LEICESTER RAM.]
[Illustration: LEICESTER EWE.]
688. THE LEICESTER.--It was not till the year 1755 that Mr. Robert
Bakewell directed his attention to the improvement of his stock of
sheep, and ultimately effected that change in the character of his flock
which has brought the breed to hold so prominent a place. The Leicester
is regarded as the largest example of the improved breeds, very
productive, and yielding a good fleece. He has a small head, covered
with short white hairs, a clean muzzle, an open countenance, full eye,
long thin ear, tapering neck, well-arched ribs, and straight back. The
meat is indifferent, its flavour not being so good as that of the
South-Down, and there is a very large proportion of fat. Average weight
of carcase from 90 to 100 lbs.
[Illustration: HEATH RAM.]
[Illustration: HEATH EWE.]
689. BLACK-FACED, on HEATH-BRED SHEEP.--This is the most hardy of all
our native breeds, and originally came from Ettrick Forest. The face and
legs are black, or sometimes mottled, the horns spiral, and on the top
of the forehead it has a small round tuft of lighter-coloured wool than
on the face; has the muzzle and lips of the same light hue, and what
shepherds call a mealy mouth; the eye is full of vivacity and fire, and
well open; the body long, round, and firm, and the limbs robust. The
wool is thin, coarse, and light. Weight of the quarter, from 10 to 16
lbs.
690. THE CHEVIOT.--From the earliest traditions, these hills in the
North, like the chalk-ridges in the South, have possessed a race of
large-carcased sheep, producing a valuable fleece. To these physical
advantages, they added a sound constitution, remarkable vigour, and
capability to endure great privation. Both sexes are destitute of horns,
face white, legs long and clean, carries the head erect, has the throat
and neck well covered, the cars long and open, and the face animated.
The Cheviot is a small-boned sheep, and well covered with wool to the
hough; the only defect in this breed, is in a want of depth in the
chest. Weight of the quarter, from 12 to 18 lbs.
[Illustration: ROMNEY-MARSH RAM.]
[Illustration: ROMNEY-MARSH EWE.]
691. THOUGH THE ROMNEY MARSHES, that wide tract of morass and lowland
moor extending from the Weald (or ancient forest) of Kent into Sussex,
has rather been regarded as a general feeding-ground for any kind of
sheep to be pastured on, it has yet, from the earliest date, been famous
for a breed of animals almost peculiar to the locality, and especially
for size, length, thickness, and quantity of wool, and what is called
thickness of stocking; and on this account for ages held pre-eminence
over every other breed in the kingdom. So satisfied were the Kentish men
with the superiority of their sheep, that they long resisted any
crossing in the breed. At length, however, this was effected, and from
the Old Romney and New Leicester a stock was produced that proved, in an
eminent degree, the advantage of the cross; and though the breed was
actually smaller than the original, it was found that the new stock did
not consume so much food, the stocking was increased, they were ready
for the market a _year_ sooner; that the fat formed more on the exterior
of the carcase, where it was of most advantage to the grazier, rather
than as formerly in the interior, where it went to the butcher as offal;
and though the wool was shorter and lighter, it was of a better colour,
finer, and possessed of superior felting properties.
692. THE ROMNEY MARSH BREED is a large animal, deep, close, and compact,
with white face and legs, and yields a heavy fleece of a good staple
quality. The general structure is, however, considered defective, the
chest being narrow and the extremities coarse; nevertheless its tendency
to fatten, and its early maturity, are universally admitted. The Romney
Marsh, therefore, though not ranking as a first class in respect of
perfection and symmetry of breed, is a highly useful, profitable, and
generally advantageous variety of the English domestic sheep.
693. DIFFERENT NAMES HAVE BEEN GIVEN to sheep by their breeders,
according to their age and sex. The male is called a ram, or tup; after
weaning, he is said to be a hog, or hogget, or a lamb-hog, tup-hog, or
teg; later he is a wether, or wether-hog; after the first shearing, a
shearing, or dinmont; and after each succeeding shearing, a two, three,
or four-shear ram, tup, or wether, according to circumstances. The
female is called a ewe, or gimmer-lamb, till weaned, when she becomes,
according to the shepherd's nomenclature, a gimmer-ewe, hog, or teg;
after shearing, a gimmer or shearing-ewe, or theave; and in future a
two, three, or four-shear ewe, or theave.
694. THE MODE OF SLAUGHTERING SHEEP is perhaps as humane and expeditious
a process as could be adopted to attain the objects sought: the animal
being laid on its side in a sort of concave stool, the butcher, while
pressing the body with his knee, transfixes the throat near the angle of
the jaw, passing his knife between the windpipe and bones of the neck;
thus dividing the jugulars, carotids, and large vessels, the death being
very rapid from such a hemorrhage.
[Illustration: SIDE OF MUTTON, SHOWING THE SEVERAL JOINTS.]
695. ALMOST EVERY LARGE CITY has a particular manner of cutting up, or,
as it is called, dressing the carcase. In London this process is very
simple, and as our butchers have found that much skewering back,
doubling one part over another, or scoring the inner cuticle or fell,
tends to spoil the meat and shorten the time it would otherwise keep,
they avoid all such treatment entirely. The carcase when flayed (which
operation is performed while yet warm), the sheep when hung up and the
head removed, presents the profile shown in our cut; the small numerals
indicating the parts or joints into which one half of the animal is cut.
After separating the hind from the fore quarters, with eleven ribs to
the latter, the quarters are usually subdivided in the manner shown in
the sketch, in which the several joins are defined by the intervening
lines and figures. _Hind quarter_: No. 1, the leg; 2, the loin--the two,
when cut in one piece, being called the saddle. _Fore quarter_: No. 3,
the shoulder; 4 and 5 the neck; No. 5 being called, for distinction, the
scrag, which is generally afterwards separated from 4, the lower and
better joint; No. 6, the breast. The haunch of mutton, so often served
at public dinners and special entertainments, comprises all the leg and
so much of the loin, short of the ribs or lap, as is indicated on the
upper part of the carcase by a dotted line.
696. THE GENTLE AND TIMID DISPOSITION of the sheep, and its defenceless
condition, must very early have attached it to man for motives less
selfish than either its fleece or its flesh; for it has been proved
beyond a doubt that, obtuse as we generally regard it, it is susceptible
of a high degree of domesticity, obedience, and affection. In many parts
of Europe, where the flocks are guided by the shepherd's voice alone, it
is no unusual thing for a sheep to quit the herd when called by its
name, and follow the keeper like a dog. In the mountains of Scotland,
when a flock is invaded by a savage dog, the rams have been known to
form the herd into a circle, and placing themselves on the outside line,
keep the enemy at bay, or charging on him in a troop, have despatched
him with their horns.
697. THE VALUE OF THE SHEEP seems to have been early understood by Adam
in his fallen state; his skin not only affording him protection for his
body, but a covering for his tent; and accordingly, we find Abel
intrusted with this portion of his father's stock; for the Bible tells
us that "Abel was a keeper of sheep." What other animals were
domesticated at that time we can only conjecture, or at what exact
period the flesh of the sheep was first eaten for food by man, is
equally, if not uncertain, open to controversy. For though some
authorities maintain the contrary, it is but natural to suppose that
when Abel brought firstlings of his flock, "and the fat thereof," as a
sacrifice, the less dainty portions, not being oblations, were hardly
likely to have been flung away as refuse. Indeed, without supposing Adam
and his descendants to have eaten animal food, we cannot reconcile the
fact of Jubal Cain, Cain's son, and his family, living in tents, as they
are reported to have done, knowing that both their own garments and the
coverings of the tents, were made from the hides and skins of the
animals they bred; for the number of sheep and oxen slain for oblations
only, would not have supplied sufficient material for two such necessary
purposes. The opposite opinion is, that animal food was not eaten till
after the Flood, when the Lord renewed his covenant with Noah. From
Scriptural authority we learn many interesting facts as regards the
sheep: the first, that mutton fat was considered the most delicious
portion of any meat, and the tail and adjacent part the most exquisite
morsel in the whole body; consequently, such were regarded as especially
fit for the offer of sacrifice. From this fact we may reasonably infer
that the animal still so often met with in Palestine and Syria, and
known as the Fat-tailed sheep, was in use in the days of the patriarchs,
though probably not then of the size and weight it now attains to; a
supposition that gains greater strength, when it is remembered that the
ram Abraham found in the bush, when he went to offer up Isaac, was a
horned animal, being entangled in the brake by his curved horns; so far
proving that it belonged to the tribe of the Capridae, the fat-tailed
sheep appertaining to the same family.
LAMBS.
698. THOUGH THE LAMBING SEASON IN THIS COUNTRY usually commences in
March, under the artificial system, so much pursued now to please the
appetite of luxury, lambs can be procured at all seasons. When, however,
the sheep lambs in mid-winter, or the inclemency of the weather would
endanger the lives of mother and young, if exposed to its influence, it
is customary to rear the lambs within-doors, and under the shelter of
stables or barns, where, foddered on soft hay, and part fed on cow's
milk, the little creatures thrive rapidly: to such it is customary to
give the name of House Lamb, to distinguish it from that reared in the
open air, or grass-fed. The ewe goes five months with her young, about
152 days, or close on 22 weeks. The weaning season commences on poor
lands, about the end of the third month, but on rich pasture not till
the close of the fourth--sometimes longer.
699. FROM THE LARGE PROPORTION OF MOISTURE OR FLUIDS contained in the
tissues of all young animals, the flesh of lamb and veal is much more
prone, in close, damp weather, to become tainted and spoil than the
flesh of the more mature, drier, and closer-textured beef and mutton.
Among epicures, the most delicious sorts of lamb are those of the
South-Down breed, known by their black feet; and of these, those which
have been exclusively suckled on the milk of the parent ewe, are
considered the finest. Next to these in estimation are those fed on the
milk of several dams, and last of all, though the fattest, the grass-fed
lamb; this, however, implies an age much greater than either of the
others.
[Illustration: SIDE OF LAMB.]
700. LAMB, in the early part of the season, however reared, is in
London, and indeed generally, sold in quarters, divided with eleven ribs
to the forequarter; but, as the season advances, these are subdivided
into two, and the hind-quarter in the same manner; the first consisting
of the shoulder, and the neck and breast; the latter, of the leg and the
loin,--as shown in the cut illustrative of mutton. As lamb, from the
juicy nature of its flesh, is especially liable to spoil in unfavourable
weather, it should be frequently wiped, so as to remove any moisture
that may form on it.
701. IN THE PURCHASING OF LAMB FOR THE TABLE, there are certain signs by
which the experienced judgment is able to form an accurate opinion
whether the animal has been lately slaughtered, and whether the joints
possess that condition of fibre indicative of good and wholesome meat.
The first of these doubts may be solved satisfactorily by the bright and
dilated appearance of the eye; the quality of the fore-quarter can
always be guaranteed by the blue or healthy ruddiness of the jugular, or
vein of the neck; while the rigidity of the knuckle, and the firm,
compact feel of the kidney, will answer in an equally positive manner
for the integrity of the hind-quarter.
702. MODE OF CUTTING UP A SIDE OF LAMB IN LONDON.--1, 1. Ribs; 2.
Breast; 3. Shoulder; 4. Loin; 5. Leg; 1,2,3. Fore Quarter.
RECIPES.
CHAPTER XV.
BAKED MINCED MUTTON (Cold Meat Cookery).
703. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of any joint of cold roast mutton, 1 or 2
onions, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 2 blades of
pounded mace or nutmeg, 2 tablespoonfuls of gravy, mashed potatoes.
_Mode_.--Mince an onion rather fine, and fry it a light-brown colour;
add the herbs and mutton, both of which should be also finely minced and
well mixed; season with pepper and salt, and a little pounded mace or
nutmeg, and moisten with the above proportion of gravy. Put a layer of
mashed potatoes at the bottom of a dish, then the mutton, and then
another layer of potatoes, and bake for about 1/2 hour.
_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Note_.--If there should be a large quantity of meat, use 2 onions
instead of 1.
BOILED BREAST OF MUTTON AND CAPER SAUCE.
704. INGREDIENTS.--Breast of mutton, bread crumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls of
minced savoury herbs (put a large proportion of parsley), pepper and
salt to taste.
_Mode_.--Cut off the superfluous fat; bone it; sprinkle over a layer of
bread crumbs, minced herbs, and seasoning; roll, and bind it up firmly.
Boil _gently_ for 2 hours, remove the tape, and serve with caper sauce,
No. 382, a little of which should be poured over the meat.
_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ all the year.
BOILED LEG OF MUTTON.
705. INGREDIENTS.--Mutton, water, salt.
_Mode_.--A. leg of mutton for boiling should not hang too long, as it
will not look a good colour when dressed. Cut off the shank-bone, trim
the knuckle, and wash and wipe it very clean; plunge it into sufficient
boiling water to cover it; let it boil up, then draw the saucepan to the
side of the fire, where it should remain till the finger can be borne in
the water. Then place it sufficiently near the fire, that the water may
gently simmer, and be very careful that it does not boil fast, or the
meat will be hard. Skim well, add a little salt, and in about 2-1/4
hours after the water begins to simmer, a moderate-sized leg of mutton
will be done. Serve with carrots and mashed turnips, which may be boiled
with the meat, and send caper sauce (No. 382) to table with it in a
tureen.
_Time_.--A moderate-sized leg of mutton of 9 lbs., 2-1/4 hours after the
water boils; one of 12 lbs., 3 hours.
_Average cost_, 8-1/2d. per lb.
_Sufficient_.--A moderate-sized leg of mutton for 6 or 8 persons.
_Seasonable_ nearly all the year, but not so good in June, July, and
August.
_Note_.--When meat is liked very _thoroughly_ cooked, allow more time
than stated above. The liquor this joint was boiled in should be
converted into soup.
THE GOOD SHEPHERD.--The sheep's complete dependence upon the
shepherd for protection from its numerous enemies is frequently
referred to in the Bible; thus the Psalmist likens himself to a
lost sheep, and prays the Almighty to seek his servant; and our
Saviour, when despatching his twelve chosen disciples to preach
the Gospel amongst their unbelieving brethren, compares them to
lambs going amongst wolves. The shepherd of the East, by kind
treatment, calls forth from his sheep unmistakable signs of
affection. The sheep obey his voice and recognize the names by
which he calls them, and they follow him in and out of the fold.
The beautiful figure of the "good shepherd," which so often
occurs in the New Testament, expresses the tenderness of the
Saviour for mankind. "The good shepherd giveth his life for the
sheep."--_John_, x. 11. "I am the good shepherd, and know my
sheep, and am known by mine."--_John_, x. 14. "And other sheep I
have which are not of this fold: them also I must bring, and
they shall hear my voice: and there shall be one fold and one
shepherd."--_John_, x. 16.
BONED LEG OF MUTTON STUFFED.
706. INGREDIENTS.--A small leg of mutton, weighing 6 or 7 lbs.,
forcemeat, No. 417, 2 shalots finely minced.
_Mode_.--Make a forcemeat by recipe No. 417, to which add 2
finely-minced shalots. Bone the leg of mutton, without spoiling the
skin, and cut off a great deal of the fat. Fill the hole up whence the
bone was taken, with the forcemeat, and sew it up underneath, to prevent
its falling out. Bind and tie it up compactly, and roast it before a
nice clear fire for about 2-1/2 hours or rather longer; remove the tape
and send it to table with a good gravy. It may be glazed or not, as
preferred.
_Time_.--2-1/2 hours, or rather longer. _Average cost_, 4s. 8d.
_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
BRAISED FILLET OF MUTTON, with French Beans.
707. INGREDIENTS.--The chump end of a loin of mutton, buttered paper,
French beans, a little glaze, 1 pint of gravy.
_Mode_.--Roll up the mutton in a piece of buttered paper, roast it for 2
hours, and do not allow it to acquire the least colour. Have ready some
French beans, boiled, and drained on a sieve; remove the paper from the
mutton, glaze it; just heat up the beans in the gravy, and lay them on
the dish with the meat over them. The remainder of the gravy may be
strained, and sent to table in a tureen.
_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 8-1/2d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
VARIOUS QUALITIES OF MUTTON--Mutton is, undoubtedly, the meat
most generally used in families; and, both by connoisseurs and
medical men, it stands first in favour, whether its the favour,
digestible qualifications, or general wholesomeness, be
considered. Of all mutton, that furnished by South-Down sheep is
the most highly esteemed; it is also the dearest, on account of
its scarcity, and the great demand of it. Therefore, if the
housekeeper is told by the butcher that he has not any in his
shop, it should not occasion disappointment to the purchaser.
The London and other markets are chiefly supplied with sheep
called half-breeds, which are a cross between the Down and
Lincoln or Leicester. These half-breeds make a greater weight of
mutton than the true South-Downs, and, for this very desirable
qualification, they are preferred by the great sheep-masters.
The legs of this mutton range from 7 to 11 lbs. in weight; the
shoulders, necks, or loins, about 6 to 9 lbs.; and if care is
taken not to purchase it; the shoulders, necks, or loins, about
8 to 9 lbs.; and it cure is taken not to purchase it too fat, it
will be found the most satisfactory and economical mutton that
can be bought.
BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON.
708. INGREDIENTS.--1 small leg of mutton, 4 carrots, 3 onions, 1 faggot
of savoury herbs, a bunch of parsley, seasoning to taste of pepper and
salt, a few slices of bacon, a few veal trimmings, 1/2 pint of gravy or
water.
_Mode_.--Line the bottom of a braising-pan with a few slices of bacon,
put in the carrots, onions, herbs, parsley, and seasoning, and over
these place the mutton. Cover the whole with a few more slices of bacon
and the veal trimmings, pour in the gravy or water, and stew very gently
for 4 hours. Strain the gravy, reduce it to a glaze over a sharp fire,
glaze the mutton with it, and send it to table, placed on a dish of
white haricot beans boiled tender, or garnished with glazed onions.
_Time_.--4 hours. Average cost, 5s.
_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
THE ORDER OF THE GOLDEN FLEECE.--This order of knighthood was
founded by Philip the Good, duke of Burgundy, in 1429, on the
day of his marriage with the Princess Isabella of Portugal. The
number of the members was originally fixed at thirty-one,
including the sovereign, as the head and chief of the
institution. In 1516, Pope Leo X. consented to increase the
number to fifty-two, including the head. In 1700 the German
emperor Charles VI. and King Philip of Spain both laid claim to
the order. The former, however, on leaving Spain, which he could
not maintain by force of arms, took with him, to Vienna, the
archives of the order, the inauguration of which he solemnized
there in 1713, with great magnificence; but Philip V. of Spain
declared himself Grand Master, and formally protested, at the
congress of Cambrai (1721), against the pretensions of the
emperor. The dispute, though subsequently settled by the
intercession of France, England, and Holland, was frequently
renewed, until the order was tacitly introduced into both
countries, and it now passes by the respective names of the
Spanish or Austrian "Order of the Golden Fleece," according to
the country where it is issued.
AN EXCELLENT WAY TO COOK A BREAST OF MUTTON.
709. INGREDIENTS.--Breast of mutton, 2 onions, salt and pepper to taste,
flour, a bunch of savoury herbs, green peas.
_Mode_.--Cut the mutton into pieces about 2 inches square, and let it be
tolerably lean; put it into a stewpan, with a little fat or butter, and
fry it of a nice brown; then dredge in a little flour, slice the onions,
and put it with the herbs in the stewpan; pour in sufficient water
_just_ to cover the meat, and simmer the whole gently until the mutton
is tender. Take out the meat, strain, and skim off all the fat from the
gravy, and put both the meat and gravy back into the stewpan; add about
a quart of young green peas, and let them boil gently until done. 2 or 3
slices of bacon added and stewed with the mutton give additional
flavour; and, to insure the peas being a beautiful green colour, they
may be boiled in water separately, and added to the stew at the moment
of serving.
_Time_.--2-1/2 hours.
_Average cost_, 6d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ from June to August.
NAMES OF ANIMALS SAXON, AND OF THEIR FLESH NORMAN.--The names of
all our domestic animals are of Saxon origin; but it is curious
to observe that Norman names have been given to the different
sorts of flesh which these animals yield. How beautifully this
illustrates the relative position of Saxon and Norman after the
Conquest. The Saxon hind had the charge of tending and feeding
the domestic animals, but only that they might appear on the
table of his Norman lord. Thus 'ox,' 'steer,' 'cow,' are Saxon,
but 'beef' is Norman; 'calf' is Saxon, but 'veal' Norman;
'sheep' is Saxon, but 'mutton' Norman; so it is severally with
'deer' and 'venison,' 'swine' and 'pork,' 'fowl' and 'pullet.'
'Bacon,' the only flesh which, perhaps, ever came within his
reach, is the single exception.
BROILED MUTTON AND TOMATO SAUCE (Cold Meat Cookery).
710. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of cold mutton, tomato sauce, No. 529.
_Mode_.--Cut some nice slices from a cold leg or shoulder of mutton;
season them with pepper and salt, and broil over a clear fire. Make some
tomato sauce by recipe No. 529, pour it over the mutton, and serve. This
makes an excellent dish, and must be served very hot.
_Time_.--About 5 minutes to broil the mutton.
_Seasonable_ in September and October, when tomatoes are plentiful and
seasonable.
SHEPHERDS AND THEIR FLOCKS.--The shepherd's crook is older than
either the husbandman's plough or the warrior's sword. We are
told that Abel was a keeper of sheep. Many passages in holy writ
enable us to appreciate the pastoral riches of the first eastern
nations; and we can form an idea of the number of their flocks,
when we read that Jacob gave the children of Hamor a hundred
sheep for the price of a field, and that the king of Israel
received a hundred thousand every year from the king of Moab,
his tributary, and a like number of rams covered with their
fleece. The tendency which most sheep have to ramble, renders it
necessary for them to be attended by a shepherd. To keep a flock
within bounds, is no easy task; but the watchful shepherd
manages to accomplish it without harassing the sheep. In the
Highlands of Scotland, where the herbage is scanty, the
sheep-farm requires to be very large, and to be watched over by
many shepherds. The farms of some of the great Scottish
landowners are of enormous extent. "How many sheep have you on
your estate?" asked Prince Esterhazy of the duke of Argyll. "I
have not the most remote idea," replied the duke; "but I know
the shepherds number several thousands."
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