The Book of Household Management - Mrs. Isabella Beeton
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BROILED MUTTON CHOPS.
711. INGREDIENTS.--Loin of mutton, pepper and salt, a small piece of
butter.
_Mode_.--Cut the chops from a well-hung tender loin of mutton, remove a
portion of the fat, and trim them into a nice shape; slightly beat and
level them; place the gridiron over a bright clear fire, rub the bars
with a little fat, and lay on the chops. Whilst broiling, frequently
turn them, and in about 8 minutes they will be done. Season with pepper
and salt, dish them on a very hot dish, rub a small piece of butter on
each chop, and serve very hot and expeditiously.
_Time_.--About 8 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d. per lb.
_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 chop to each person.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
CHINA CHILO.
712. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of leg, loin, or neck of mutton, 2 onions,
2 lettuces, 1 pint of green peas, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful
of pepper, 1/4 pint of water, 1/4 lb. of clarified butter; when liked, a
little cayenne.
_Mode_.--Mince the above quantity of undressed leg, loin, or neck of
mutton, adding a little of the fat, also minced; put it into a stewpan
with the remaining ingredients, previously shredding the lettuce and
onion rather fine; closely cover the stewpan, after the ingredients have
been well stirred, and simmer gently for rather more than 2 hours. Serve
in a dish, with a border of rice round, the same as for curry.
_Time_.--Rather more than 2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d.
_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.
_Seasonable_ from June to August.
CURRIED MUTTON (Cold Meat Cookery).
713. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of any joint of cold mutton, 2 onions,
1/4 lb. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of curry powder, 1 dessertspoonful
of flour, salt to taste, 1/4 pint of stock or water.
_Mode_.--Slice the onions in thin rings, and put them into a stewpan
with the butter, and fry of a light brown; stir in the curry powder,
flour, and salt, and mix all well together. Cut the meat into nice thin
slices (if there is not sufficient to do this, it may be minced), and
add it to the other ingredients; when well browned, add the stock or
gravy, and stew gently for about 1/2 hour. Serve in a dish with a border
of boiled rice, the same as for other curries.
_Time_.--1/2 hour.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d.
_Seasonable_ in winter.
CUTLETS OF COLD MUTTON (Cold Meat Cookery).
714. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold loin or neck of mutton, 1 egg,
bread crumbs, brown gravy (No. 436), or tomato sauce (No. 529).
_Mode_.--Cut the remains of cold loin or neck of mutton into cutlets,
trim them, and take away a portion of the fat, should there be too much;
dip them in beaten egg, and sprinkle with bread crumbs, and fry them a
nice brown in hot dripping. Arrange them on a dish, and pour round them
either a good gravy or hot tomato sauce.
_Time_.--About 7 minutes.
_Seasonable_.--Tomatoes to be had most reasonably in September and
October.
DORMERS.
715. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of cold mutton, 2 oz. of beef suet, pepper
and salt to taste, 3 oz. of boiled rice, 1 egg, bread crumbs, made
gravy.
_Mode_.--Chop the meat, suet, and rice finely; mix well together, and
add a high seasoning of pepper and salt, and roll into sausages; cover
them with egg and bread crumbs, and fry in hot dripping of a nice brown.
Serve in a dish with made gravy poured round them, and a little in a
tureen.
_Time_.--1/2 hour to fry the sausages.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
THE GOLDEN FLEECE.--The ancient fable of the Golden Fleece may
be thus briefly told:--Phryxus, a son of Athamus, king of
Thebes, to escape the persecutions of his stepmother Ino, paid a
visit to his friend Aeetes, king of Colchis. A ram, whose fleece
was of pure gold, carried the youth through the air in a most
obliging manner to the court of his friend. When safe At
Colchis, Phryxus offered the ram on the altars of Mars, and
pocketed the fleece. The king received him with great kindness,
and gave him his daughter Chalciope in marriage; but, some time
after, he murdered him in order to obtain possession of the
precious fleece. The murder of Phryxus was amply revenged by the
Greeks. It gave rise to the famous Argonautic expedition,
undertaken by Jason and fifty of the most celebrated heroes of
Greece. The Argonauts recovered the fleece by the help of the
celebrated sorceress Medea, daughter of Aeetes, who fell
desperately in love with the gallant but faithless Jason. In the
story of the voyage of the Argo, a substratum of truth probably
exists, though overlaid by a mass of fiction. The ram which
carried Phryxus to Colchis is by some supposed to have been the
name of the ship in which he embarked. The fleece of gold is
thought to represent the immense treasures he bore away from
Thebes. The alchemists of the fifteenth century were firmly
convinced that the Golden Fleece was a treatise on the
transmutation of metals, written on sheepskin.
HARICOT MUTTON.
I.
716. INGREDIENTS.--4 lbs. of the middle or best end of the neck of
mutton, 3 carrots, 3 turnips, 3 onions, popper and salt to taste, 1
tablespoonful of ketchup or Harvey's sauce.
_Mode_.--Trim off some of the fat, cut the mutton into rather thin
chops, and put them into a frying-pan with the fat trimmings. Fry of a
pale brown, but do not cook them enough for eating. Cut the carrots and
turnips into dice, and the onions into slices, and slightly fry them in
the same fat that the mutton was browned in, but do not allow them to
take any colour. Now lay the mutton at the bottom of a stewpan, then the
vegetables, and pour over them just sufficient boiling water to cover
the whole. Give one boil, skim well, and then set the pan on the side of
the fire to simmer gently until the meat is tender. Skim off every
particle of fat, add a seasoning of pepper and salt, and a little
ketchup, and serve. This dish is very much better if made the day before
it is wanted for table, as the fat can be so much more easily removed
when the gravy is cold. This should be particularly attended to, as it
is apt to be rather rich and greasy if eaten the same day it is made. It
should be served in rather a deep dish.
_Time_.--2-1/2 hours to simmer gently.
_Average cost_, for this quantity, 3s.
_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
II.
717. INGREDIENTS.--Breast or scrag of mutton, flour, pepper and salt to
taste, 1 large onion, 3 cloves, a bunch of savoury herbs, 1 blade of
mace, carrots and turnips, sugar.
_Mode_.--Cut the mutton into square pieces, and fry them a nice colour;
then dredge over them a little flour and a seasoning of pepper and salt.
Put all into a stewpan, and moisten with boiling water, adding the
onion, stuck with 3 cloves, the mace, and herbs. Simmer gently till the
meat is nearly done, skim off all the fat, and then add the carrots and
turnips, which should previously be cut in dice and fried in a little
sugar to colour them. Let the whole simmer again for 10 minutes; take
out the onion and bunch of herbs, and serve.
_Time_.--About 3 hours to simmer.
_Average cost_, 6d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
HARICOT MUTTON (Cold Meat Cookery).
718. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold neck or loin of mutton, 2 oz. of
butter, 3 onions, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1/2 pint of good gravy,
pepper and salt to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of port wine, 1 tablespoonful
of mushroom ketchup, 2 carrots, 2 turnips, 1 head of celery.
_Mode_.--Cut the cold mutton into moderate-sized chops, and take off the
fat; slice the onions, and fry them with the chops, in a little butter,
of a nice brown colour; stir in the flour, add the gravy, and let it
stew gently nearly an hour. In the mean time boil the vegetables until
_nearly_ tender, slice them, and add them to the mutton about 1/4 hour
before it is to be served. Season with pepper and salt, add the ketchup
and port wine, give one boil, and serve.
_Time_.--1 hour.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 9d.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
HASHED MUTTON.
719. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast shoulder or leg of mutton,
6 whole peppers, 6 whole allspice, a faggot of savoury herbs, 1/2 head
of celery, 1 onion, 2 oz. of butter, flour.
_Mode_.--Cut the meat in nice even slices from the bones, trimming off
all superfluous fat and gristle; chop the bones and fragments of the
joint, put them into a stewpan with the pepper, spice, herbs, and
celery; cover with water, and simmer for 1 hour. Slice and fry the onion
of a nice pale-brown colour, dredge in a little flour to make it thick,
and add this to the bones, &c. Stew for 1/4 hour, strain the gravy, and
let it cool; then skim off every particle of fat, and put it, with the
meat, into a stewpan. Flavour with ketchup, Harvey's sauce; tomato
sauce, or any flavouring that may be preferred, and let the meat
gradually warm through, but not boil, or it will harden. To hash meat
properly, it should be laid in cold gravy, and only left on the fire
just long enough to warm through.
_Time_.--1-1/2 hour to simmer the gravy.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
HASHED MUTTON.--Many persons express a decided aversion to
hashed mutton; and, doubtless, this dislike has arisen from the
fact that they have unfortunately never been properly served
with this dish. If properly done, however, the meat tender (it
ought to be as tender as when first roasted), the gravy abundant
and well flavoured, and the sippets nicely toasted, and the
whole served neatly; then, hashed mutton is by no means to be
despised, and is infinitely more wholesome and appetizing than
the cold leg or shoulder, of which fathers and husbands, and
their bachelor friends, stand in such natural awe.
HODGE-PODGE (Cold Meat Cookery).
720. INGREDIENTS.--About 1 lb. of underdone cold mutton, 2 lettuces, 1
pint of green peas, 5 or 6 green onions, 2 oz. of butter, pepper and
salt to taste, 1/2 teacupful of water.
_Mode_.--Mince the mutton, and cut up the lettuces and onions in slices.
Put these in a stewpan, with all the ingredients except the peas, and
let these simmer very gently for 3/4 hour, keeping them well stirred.
Boil the peas separately, mix these with the mutton, and serve very hot.
_Time_.--3/4 hour.
_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.
_Seasonable_ from the end of May to August.
IRISH STEW.
I.
721. INGREDIENTS.--3 lbs. of the loin or neck of mutton, 5 lbs. of
potatoes, 5 large onions, pepper and salt to taste, rather more than 1
pint of water.
_Mode_.--Trim off some of the fat of the above quantity of loin or neck
of mutton, and cut it into chops of a moderate thickness. Pare and halve
the potatoes, and cut the onions into thick slices. Put a layer of
potatoes at the bottom of a stewpan, then a layer of mutton and onions,
and season with pepper and salt; proceed in this manner until the
stewpan is full, taking care to have plenty of vegetables at the top.
Pour in the water, and let it stew very gently for 2-1/2 hours, keeping
the lid of the stewpan closely shut the _whole_ time, and occasionally
shaking it to prevent its burning.
_Time_.--2-1/2 hours.
_Average cost_, for this quantity, 2s. 8d.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_.--More suitable for a winter dish.
II.
722. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 lbs. of the breast of mutton, 1-1/2 pint of
water, salt and pepper to taste, 4 lbs. of potatoes, 4 large onions.
_Mode_.--Put the mutton into a stewpan with the water and a little salt,
and let it stew gently for an hour; cut the meat into small pieces, skim
the fat from the gravy, and pare and slice the potatoes and onions. Put
all the ingredients into the stewpan in layers, first a layer of
vegetables, then one of meat, and sprinkle seasoning of pepper and salt
between each layer; cover closely, and let the whole stew very gently
for 1 hour of rather more, shaking it frequently to prevent its burning.
_Time_.--Rather more than 2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s, 6d.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_.--Suitable for a winter dish.
_Note_.--Irish stew may be prepared in the same manner as above, but
baked in a jar instead of boiled. About 2 hours or rather more in a
moderate oven will be sufficient time to bake it.
ITALIAN MUTTON CUTLETS.
723. INGREDIENTS.--About 3 lbs. of the neck of mutton, clarified butter,
the yolk of 1 egg, 4 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, 1 tablespoonful of
minced savoury herbs, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 1 teaspoonful
of minced shalot, 1 saltspoonful of finely-chopped lemon-peel; pepper,
salt, and pounded mace to taste; flour, 1/2 pint of hot broth or water,
2 teaspoonfuls of Harvey's sauce, 1 teaspoonful of soy, 2 teaspoonfuls
of tarragon vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of port wine.
_Mode_.--Cut the mutton into nicely-shaped cutlets, flatten them, and
trim off some of the fat, dip them in clarified butter, and then, into
the beaten yolk of an egg. Mix well together bread crumbs, herbs,
parsley, shalot, lemon-peel, and seasoning in the above proportion, and
cover the cutlets with these ingredients. Melt some butter in a
frying-pan, lay in the cutlets, and fry them a nice brown; take them,
out, and keep them hot before the fire. Dredge some flour into the pan,
and if there is not sufficient butter, add a little more; stir till it
looks brown, then pour in the hot broth or water, and the remaining
ingredients; give one boil, and pour round the cutlets. If the gravy
should not be thick enough, add a little more flour. Mushrooms, when
obtainable, are a great improvement to this dish, and when not in
season, mushroom-powder may be substituted for them.
_Time_.--10 minutes;--rather longer, should the cutlets be very thick.
_Average cost_, 2s. 9d.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
THE DOWNS.--The well-known substance chalk, which the chemist
regards as a nearly pure carbonate of lime, and the microscopist
as an aggregation of inconceivably minute shells and corals,
forms the sub-soil of the hilly districts of the south-east of
England. The chalk-hills known as the South Downs start from the
bold promontory of Beachy Head, traverse the county of Sussex
from east to west, and pass through Hampshire into Surrey. The
North Downs extend from Godalming, by Godstone, into Kent, and
terminate in the line of cliffs which stretches from Dover to
Ramsgate. The Downs are clothed with short verdant turf; but the
layer of soil which rests upon the chalk is too thin to support
trees and shrubs. The hills have rounded summits, and their
smooth, undulated outlines are unbroken save by the sepulchral
monuments of the early inhabitants of the country. The coombes
and furrows, which ramify and extend into deep valleys, appear
like dried-up channels of streams and rivulets. From time
immemorial, immense flocks of sheep have been reared on these
downs. The herbage of these hills is remarkably nutritious; and
whilst the natural healthiness of the climate, consequent on the
dryness of the air and the moderate elevation of the land, is
eminently favourable to rearing a superior race of sheep, the
arable land in the immediate neighbourhood of the Downs affords
the means of a supply of other food, when the natural produce of
the hills fails. The mutton of the South-Down breed of sheep is
highly valued for its delicate flavour, and the wool for its
fineness; but the best specimens of this breed, when imported
from England into the West Indies, become miserably lean in the
course of a year or two, and their woolly fleece gives place to
a covering of short, crisp, brownish hair.
BROILED KIDNEYS (a Breakfast or Supper Dish).
724. INGREDIENTS.--Sheep kidneys, pepper and salt to taste.
_Mode_.--Ascertain that the kidneys are fresh, and cut them open very
evenly, lengthwise, down to the root, for should one half be thicker
than the other, one would be underdone whilst the other would be dried,
but do not separate them; skin them, and pass a skewer under the white
part of each half to keep them flat, and broil over a nice clear fire,
placing the inside downwards; turn them when done enough on one side,
and cook them on the other. Remove the skewers, place the kidneys on a
very hot dish, season with pepper and salt, and put a tiny piece of
butter in the middle of each; serve very hot and quickly, and send very
hot plates to table.
_Time_.--6 to 8 minutes.
_Average cost_, 1-1/2d. each.
_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 for each person.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Note_.--A prettier dish than the above may be made by serving the
kidneys each on a piece of buttered toast out in any fanciful shape. In
this case a little lemon-juice will be found an improvement.
[Illustration: KIDNEYS.]
FRIED KIDNEYS.
725. INGREDIENTS.--Kidneys, butter, pepper and salt to taste.
_Mode_.--Cut the kidneys open without quite dividing them, remove the
skin, and put a small piece of butter in the frying-pan. When the butter
is melted, lay in the kidneys the flat side downwards, and fry them for
7 or 8 minutes, turning them when they are half-done. Serve on a piece
of dry toast, season with pepper and salt, and put a small piece of
butter in each kidney; pour the gravy from the pan over them, and serve
very hot.
_Time_.--7 or 8 minutes.
_Average cost_, 1-1/2d. each.
_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 kidney to each person.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
ROAST HAUNCH OF MUTTON.
[Illustration: HAUNCH OF MUTTON.]
726. INGREDIENTS.--Haunch of mutton, a little salt, flour.
_Mode_.--Let this joint hang as long as possible without becoming
tainted, and while hanging dust flour over it, which keeps off the
flies, and prevents the air from getting to it. If not well hung, the
joint, when it comes to table, will neither do credit to the butcher or
the cook, as it will not be tender. Wash the outside well, lest it
should have a bad flavour from keeping; then flour it and put it down to
a nice brisk fire, at some distance, so that it may gradually warm
through. Keep continually basting, and about 1/2 hour before it is
served, draw it nearer to the fire to get nicely brown. Sprinkle a
little fine salt over the meat, pour off the dripping, add a little
boiling water slightly salted, and strain this over the joint. Place a
paper ruche on the bone, and send red-currant jelly and gravy in a
tureen to table with it.
_Time_.--About 4 hours.
_Average cost_, 10d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 8 to 10 persons.
_Seasonable_.--In best season from September to March.
HOW TO BUY MEAT ECONOMICALLY.--If the housekeeper is not very
particular as to the precise joints to cook for dinner, there is
oftentimes an opportunity for her to save as much money in her
purchases of meat as will pay for the bread to eat with it. It
often occurs, for instance, that the butcher may have a
superfluity of certain joints, and these he would be glad to get
rid of at a reduction of sometimes as much as 1d. or 1-1/2d. per
lb., and thus, in a joint of 8 or 9 lbs., will be saved enough
to buy 2 quartern loaves. It frequently happens with many
butchers, that, in consequence of a demand for legs and loins of
mutton, they have only shoulders left, and these they will be
glad to sell at a reduction.
ROAST LEG OF MUTTON.
[Illustration: LEG OF MUTTON.]
727. INGREDIENTS.--Leg of mutton, a little salt.
_Mode_.--As mutton, when freshly killed, is never tender, hang it almost
as long as it will keep; flour it, and put it in a cool airy place for a
few days, if the weather will permit. Wash off the flour, wipe it very
dry, and cut off the shank-bone; put it down to a brisk clear fire,
dredge with flour, and keep continually basting the whole time it is
cooking. About 20 minutes before serving, draw it near the fire to get
nicely brown; sprinkle over it a little salt, dish the meat, pour off
the dripping, add some boiling water slightly salted, strain it over the
joint, and serve.
_Time_.--A leg of mutton weighing 10 lbs., about 2-1/4 or 2-1/2 hours;
one of 7 lbs., about 2 hours, or rather less.
_Average cost_, 8-1/2d. per lb.
_Sufficient_.--A moderate-sized leg of mutton sufficient for 6 or 8
persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time, but not so good in June, July, and August.
ROAST LOIN OF MUTTON.
728. INGREDIENTS.--Loin of mutton, a little salt.
_Mode_.--Cut and trim off the superfluous fat, and see that the butcher
joints the meat properly, as thereby much annoyance is saved to the
carver, when it comes to table. Have ready a nice clear fire (it need
not be a very wide large one), put down the meat, dredge with flour, and
baste well until it is done. Make the gravy as for roast leg of mutton,
and serve very hot.
[Illustration: LOIN OF MUTTON.]
_Time_.--A loin of mutton weighing 6 lbs., 1-1/2 hour, or rather longer.
_Average cost_, 8-1/2d. per lb. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
ROLLED LOIN OF MUTTON (Very Excellent).
729. INGREDIENTS.--About 6 lbs. of a loin of mutton, 1/2 teaspoonful of
pepper, 1/4 teaspoonful of pounded allspice, 1/4 teaspoonful of mace,
1/4 teaspoonful of nutmeg, 6 cloves, forcemeat No. 417, 1 glass of port
wine, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup.
_Mode_.--Hang the mutton till tender, bone it, and sprinkle over it
pepper, mace, cloves, allspice, and nutmeg in the above proportion, all
of which must be pounded very fine. Let it remain for a day, then make a
forcemeat by recipe No. 417, cover the meat with it, and roll and bind
it up firmly. Half bake it in a slow oven, let it grow cold, take off
the fat, and put the gravy into a stewpan; flour the meat, put it in the
gravy, and stew it till perfectly tender. Now take out the meat, unbind
it, add to the gravy wine and ketchup as above, give one boil, and pour
over the meat. Serve with red-currant jelly; and, if obtainable, a few
mushrooms stewed for a few minutes in the gravy, will be found a great
improvement.
_Time_.--1-1/2 hour to bake the meat, 1-1/2 hour to stew gently.
_Average cost_, 4s. 9d. _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Note_.--This joint will be found very nice if rolled and stuffed, as
here directed, and plainly roasted. It should be well basted, and served
with a good gravy and currant jelly.
BOILED NECK OF MUTTON.
730. INGREDIENTS.--4 lbs. of the middle, or best end of the neck of
mutton; a little salt.
_Mode_.--Trim off a portion of the fat, should there be too much, and if
it is to look particularly nice, the chine-bone should be sawn down, the
ribs stripped halfway down, and the ends of the bones chopped off; this
is, however, not necessary. Put the meat into sufficient _boiling_ water
to cover it; when it boils, add a little salt and remove all the scum.
Draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let the water get so cool
that the finger may be borne in it; then simmer very _slowly_ and gently
until the meat is done, which will be in about 1-1/2 hour, or rather
more, reckoning from the time that it begins to simmer.
Serve with turnips and caper sauce, No. 382, and pour a little of it
over the meat. The turnips should be boiled with the mutton; and, when
at hand, a few carrots will also be found an improvement. These,
however, if very large and thick, must be cut into long thinnish pieces,
or they will not be sufficiently done by the time the mutton is ready.
Garnish the dish with carrots and turnips placed alternately round the
mutton.
_Time_.--4 lbs. of the neck of mutton, about 1-1/2 hour.
_Average cost_, 8-1/2 d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
THE POETS ON SHEEP.--The keeping of flocks seems to have been
the first employment of mankind; and the most ancient sort of
poetry was probably pastoral. The poem known as the Pastoral
gives a picture of the life of the simple shepherds of the
golden age, who are supposed to have beguiled their time in
singing. In all pastorals, repeated allusions are made to the
"fleecy flocks," the "milk-white lambs," and "the tender ewes;"
indeed, the sheep occupy a position in these poems inferior only
to that of the shepherds who tend them. The "nibbling sheep" has
ever been a favourite of the poets, and has supplied them with
figures and similes without end. Shakspere frequently compares
men to sheep. When Gloster rudely drives the lieutenant from the
side of Henry VI., the poor king thus touchingly speaks of his
helplessness;--
"So flies the reckless shepherd from the wolf:
So first the harmless sheep doth yield his fleece,
And next his throat, unto the butcher's knife."
In the "Two Gentlemen of Verona," we meet with the following
humorous comparison:--
"_Proteus_. The sheep for fodder follow the shepherd, the
shepherd for food follows not the sheep: thou for wages
followest thy master, thy master for wages follows not thee;
therefore, thou art a sheep.
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