The Book of Household Management - Mrs. Isabella Beeton
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TO GLAZE HAM.--(See Recipe No. 430.)
HASHED PORK.
801. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast pork, 2 onions, 1
teaspoonful of flour, 2 blades of pounded mace, 2 cloves, 1
tablespoonful of vinegar, 1/2 pint of gravy, pepper and salt to taste.
_Mode_.--Chop the onions and fry them of a nice brown, cut the pork into
thin slices, season them with pepper and salt, and add these to the
remaining ingredients. Stew gently for about 1/2 hour, and serve
garnished with sippets of toasted bread.
_Time_.--1/2 hour.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 3d.
_Seasonable_ from October to March.
FRIED RASHERS OF BACON AND POACHED EGGS.
802. INGREDIENTS.--Bacon; eggs.
_Mode_.--Cut the bacon into thin slices, trim away the rusty parts, and
cut off the rind. Put it into a cold frying-pan, that is to say, do not
place the pan on the fire before the bacon is in it. Turn it 2 or 3
times, and dish it on a very hot dish. Poach the eggs and slip them on
to the bacon, without breaking the yolks, and serve quickly.
_Time_.--3 or 4 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d. to 1s. per lb. for the
primest parts.
_Sufficient_.--Allow 6 eggs for 3 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Note_.--Fried rashers of bacon, curled, serve as a pretty garnish to
many dishes; and, for small families, answer very well as a substitute
for boiled bacon, to serve with a small dish of poultry, &c.
BROILED RASHERS OF BACON (a Breakfast Dish).
803. Before purchasing bacon, ascertain that it is perfectly free from
rust, which may easily be detected by its yellow colour; and for
broiling, the streaked part of the thick flank, is generally the most
esteemed. Cut it into _thin_ slices, take off the rind, and broil over a
nice clear fire; turn it 2 or 3 times, and serve very hot. Should there
be any cold bacon left from the previous day, it answers very well for
breakfast, cut into slices, and broiled or fried.
_Time_.--3 or 4 minutes.
_Average cost_, 10d. to 1s. per lb. for the primest parts.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Note_.--When the bacon is cut very thin, the slices may be curled round
and fastened by means of small skewers, and fried or toasted before the
fire.
BOILED BACON.
804. INGREDIENTS.--Bacon; water.
[Illustration: BOILED BACON.]
_Mode_.--As bacon is frequently excessively salt, let it be soaked in
warm water for an hour or two previous to dressing it; then pare off the
rusty parts, and scrape the under-side and rind as clean as possible.
Put it into a saucepan of _cold_ water, let it come gradually to a boil,
and as fast as the scum rises to the surface of the water, remove it.
Let it simmer very gently until it is _thoroughly_ done; then take it
up, strip off the skin, and sprinkle over the bacon a few bread
raspings, and garnish with tufts of cauliflower or Brussels sprouts.
When served alone, young and tender broad beans or green peas are the
usual accompaniments.
_Time_.--1 lb. of bacon, 1/4 hour; 2 lbs., 1-1/2 hour.
_Average cost_, 10d. to 1s. per lb. for the primest parts.
_Sufficient_.--2 lbs., when served with poultry or veal, sufficient for
10 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
TO CURE BACON IN THE WILTSHIRE WAY.
805. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of coarse sugar, 1-1/2 lb. of bay-salt, 6
oz. of saltpetre, 1 lb. of common salt.
_Mode_.--Sprinkle each flitch with salt, and let the blood drain off for
24 hours; then pound and mix the above ingredients well together and rub
it well into the meat, which should be turned every day for a month;
then hang it to dry, and afterwards smoke it for 10 days.
_Time_.--To remain in the pickle 1 month, to be smoked 10 days.
_Sufficient_.--The above quantity of salt for 1 pig.
HOW PIGS WERE FORMERLY PASTURED AND FED.--Though unquestionably
far greater numbers of swine are now kept in England than
formerly, every peasant having one or more of that useful
animal, in feudal times immense droves of pigs were kept by the
franklings and barons; in those days the swine-herds being a
regular part of the domestic service of every feudal household,
their duty consisted in daily driving the herd of swine from the
castle-yard, or outlying farm, to the nearest woods, chase, or
forest, where the frankling or vavasour had, either by right or
grant, what was called _free warren_, or the liberty to feed his
hogs off the acorns, beech, and chestnuts that lay in such
abundance on the earth, and far exceeded the power of the royal
or privileged game to consume. Indeed, it was the license
granted the nobles of free warren, especially for their swine,
that kept up the iniquitous forest laws to so late a date, and
covered so large a portion of the land with such immense tracts
of wood and brake, to the injury of agriculture and the misery
of the people. Some idea of the extent to which swine were
grazed in the feudal times, may be formed by observing the
number of pigs still fed in Epping Forest, the Forest of Dean,
and the New Forest, in Hampshire, where, for several months of
the year, the beech-nuts and acorns yield them so plentiful a
diet. In Germany, where the chestnut is so largely cultivated,
the amount of food shed every autumn is enormous; and
consequently the pig, both wild and domestic, has, for a
considerable portion of the year, an unfailing supply of
admirable nourishment. Impressed with the value of this fruit
for the food of pigs, the Prince Consort has, with great
judgment, of late encouraged the collection of chestnuts in
Windsor Park, and by giving a small reward to old people and
children for every bushel collected, has not only found an
occupation for many of the unemployed poor, but, by providing a
gratuitous food for their pig, encouraged a feeling of
providence and economy.
FOR CURING BACON, AND KEEPING IT FREE FROM RUST (Cobbett's Recipe).
806. THE TWO SIDES THAT REMAIN, and which are called flitches, are to be
cured for bacon. They are first rubbed with salt on their insides, or
flesh sides, then placed one on the other, the flesh sides uppermost, in
a salting-trough which has a gutter round its edges to drain away the
brine; for, to have sweet and fine bacon, the flitches must not be
sopping in brine, which gives it the sort of vile taste that barrel and
sea pork have. Every one knows how different is the taste of fresh dry
salt from that of salt in a dissolved state; therefore change the salt
often,--once in 4 or 5 days; let it melt and sink in, but not lie too
long; twice change the flitches, put that at bottom which was first on
the top: this mode will cost you a great deal more in salt than the
sopping mode, but without it your bacon will not be so sweet and fine,
nor keep so well. As for the time required in making your flitches
sufficiently salt, it depends on circumstances. It takes a longer time
for a thick than a thin flitch, and longer in dry than in damp weather,
or in a dry than in a damp place; but for the flitches of a hog of five
score, in weather not very dry or damp, about 6 weeks may do; and as
yours is to be fat, which receives little injury from over-salting, give
time enough, for you are to have bacon until Christmas comes again.
807. THE PLACE FOR SALTING SHOULD, like a dairy, always be cool, but
well ventilated; confined air, though cool, will taint meat sooner than
the midday day sun accompanied by a breeze. With regard to smoking the
bacon, two precautions are necessary: first, to hang the flitches where
no rain comes down upon them; and next, that the smoke must proceed from
wood, not peat, turf, or coal. As to the time required to smoke a
flitch, it depends a good deal upon whether there be a constant fire
beneath; and whether the fire be large or small: a month will do, if the
fire be pretty constant and rich, as a farmhouse fire usually is; but
over-smoking, or rather too long hanging in the air, makes the bacon
rust; great attention should therefore be paid to this matter. The
flitch ought not to be dried up to the hardness of a board, and yet it
ought to be perfectly dry. Before you hang it up, lay it on the floor,
scatter the flesh side pretty thickly over with bran, or with some fine
sawdust, not of deal or fir; rub it on the flesh, or pat it well down
upon it: this keeps the smoke from getting into the little openings, and
makes a sort of crust to be dried on.
808. To KEEP THE BACON SWEET AND GOOD, and free from hoppers, sift fine
some clean and dry wood ashes. Put some at the bottom of a box or chest
long enough to hold a flitch of bacon; lay in one flitch, and then put
in more ashes, then another flitch, and cover this with six or eight
inches of the ashes. The place where the box or chest is kept ought to
be dry, and should the ashes become damp, they should be put in the
fireplace to dry, and when cold, put back again. With these precautions,
the bacon will be as good at the end of the year as on the first day.
809. FOR SIMPLE GENERAL RULES; these may be safely taken as a guide; and
those who implicitly follow the directions given, will possess at the
expiration of from 6 weeks to 2 months well-flavoured and well-cured
bacon.
HOG NOT BACON. ANECDOTE OF LORD BACON.--As Lord Bacon, on one
occasion, was about to pass sentence of death upon a man of the
name of Hogg, who had just been tried for a long career of
crime, the prisoner suddenly claimed to be heard in arrest of
judgment, saying, with an expression of arch confidence as he
addressed the bench, "I claim indulgence, my lord, on the plea
of relationship; for I am convinced your lordship will never be
unnatural enough to hang one of your own family."
"Indeed, replied the judge, with some amazement," I was not
aware that I had the honour of your alliance; perhaps you will
be good enough to name the degree of our mutual affinity."
"I am sorry, my lord," returned the impudent thief, "I cannot
trace the links of consanguinity; but the moral evidence is
sufficiently pertinent. My name, my lord, is Hogg, your
lordship's is Bacon; and all the world will allow that bacon and
hog are very closely allied."
"I am sorry," replied his lordship, "I cannot admit the truth of
your instance: hog cannot be bacon till it is hanged; and so,
before I can admit your plea, or acknowledge the family compact,
Hogg must be hanged to-morrow morning."
TO BAKE A HAM.
810. INGREDIENTS.--Ham; a common crust.
Mode.--As a ham for baking should be well soaked, let it remain in water
for at least 12 hours. Wipe it dry, trim away any rusty places
underneath, and cover it with a common crust, taking care that this is
of sufficient thickness all over to keep the gravy in. Place it in a
moderately-heated oven, and bake for nearly 4 hours. Take off the crust,
and skin, and cover with raspings, the same as for boiled ham, and
garnish the knuckle with a paper frill. This method of cooking a ham is,
by many persons, considered far superior to boiling it, as it cuts
fuller of gravy and has a finer flavour, besides keeping a much longer
time good.
_Time_.--A medium-sized ham, 4 hours.
_Average cost_, from 8d. to 10d. per lb. by the whole ham.
_Seasonable_ all the year.
TO BOIL A HAM.
[Illustration: BOILED HAM.]
811. INGREDIENTS.--Ham, water, glaze or raspings.
_Mode_.--In choosing a ham, ascertain that it is perfectly sweet, by
running a sharp knife into it, close to the bone; and if, when the knife
is withdrawn, it has an agreeable smell, the ham is good; if, on the
contrary, the blade has a greasy appearance and offensive smell, the ham
is bad. If it has been long hung, and is very dry and salt, let it
remain in soak for 24 hours, changing the water frequently. This length
of time is only necessary in the case of its being very hard; from 8 to
12 hours would be sufficient for a Yorkshire or Westmoreland ham. Wash
it thoroughly clean, and trim away from the under-side, all the rusty
and smoked parts, which would spoil the appearance. Put it into a
boiling-pot, with sufficient cold water to cover it; bring it gradually
to boil, and as the scum rises, carefully remove it. Keep it simmering
very gently until tender, and be careful that it does not stop boiling,
nor boil too quickly. When done, take it out of the pot, strip off the
skin, and sprinkle over it a few fine bread-raspings, put a frill of cut
paper round the knuckle, and serve. If to be eaten cold, let the ham
remain in the water until nearly cold: by this method the juices are
kept in, and it will be found infinitely superior to one taken out of
the water hot; it should, however, be borne in mind that the ham must
_not_ remain in the saucepan _all_ night. When the skin is removed,
sprinkle over bread-raspings, or, if wanted particularly nice, glaze it.
Place a paper frill round the knuckle, and garnish with parsley or cut
vegetable flowers. (_See_ Coloured Plate P.)
_Time_.--A ham weighing 10 lbs., 4 hours to _simmer gently_; 15 lbs., 5
hours; a very large one, about 5 hours.
_Average cost_, from 8d. to 10d. per lb. by the whole ham.
_Seasonable_ all the year.
HOW TO BOIL A HAM TO GIVE IT AN EXCELLENT FLAVOUR.
812. INGREDIENTS.--Vinegar and water, 2 heads of celery, 2 turnips, 3
onions, a large bunch of savoury herbs.
_Mode_.--Prepare the ham as in the preceding recipe, and let it soak for
a few hours in vinegar and water. Put it on in cold water, and when it
boils, add the vegetables and herbs. Simmer very gently until tender,
take it out, strip off the skin, cover with bread-raspings, and put a
paper ruche or frill round the knuckle.
_Time_.--A ham weighing 10 lbs., 4 hours.
_Average cost_, 8d. to 10d. per lb. by the whole ham.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
HOW TO SILENCE A PIG. ANECDOTE OF CHARLES V.--When the emperor
Charles V. was one day walking in the neighbourhood of Vienna,
full of pious considerations, engendered by the thoughts of the
Dominican cloister he was about to visit, he was much annoyed by
the noise of a pig, which a country youth was carrying a little
way before him. At length, irritated by the unmitigated noise,
"Have you not learned how to quiet a pig" demanded the imperial
traveller, tartly. "Noa," replied the ingenuous peasant,
ignorant of the quality of his interrogator;--"noa; and I should
very much like to know how to do it," changing the position of
his burthen, and giving his load a surreptitious pinch of the
ear, which immediately altered the tone and volume of his
complaining.
"Why, take the pig by the tail," said the emperor, "and you will
see how quiet he will become."
Struck by the novelty of the suggestion, the countryman at once
dangled his noisy companion by the tail, and soon discovered
that, under the partial congestion caused by its inverted
position, the pig had indeed become silent; when, looking with
admiration on his august adviser, he exclaimed,--
"Ah, you must have learned the trade much longer than I, for you
understand it a great deal better."
FRIED HAM AND EGGS (a Breakfast Dish).
813. INGREDIENTS.--Ham; eggs.
_Mode_.--Cut the ham into slices, and take care that they are of the
same thickness in every part. Cut off the rind, and if the ham should be
particularly hard and salt, it will be found an improvement to soak it
for about 10 minutes in hot water, and then dry it in a cloth. Put it
into a cold frying-pan, set it over the fire, and turn the slices 3 or 4
times whilst they are cooking. When done, place them on a dish, which
should be kept hot in front of the fire during the time the eggs are
being poached. Poach the eggs, slip them on to the slices of ham, and
serve quickly.
_Time_.--7 or 8 minutes to broil the ham.
_Average cost_, from 8d. to 10d. per lb. by the whole ham.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Note_.--Ham may also be toasted or broiled; but, with the latter
method, to insure its being well cooked, the fire must be beautifully
clear, or it will have a smoky flavour far from agreeable.
POTTED HAM, that will keep Good for some time.
I.
814. INGREDIENTS.--To 4 lbs. of lean ham allow 1 lb. of fat, 2
teaspoonfuls of pounded mace, 1/2 nutmeg grated, rather more than 1/2
teaspoonful of cayenne, clarified lard.
_Mode_.--Mince the ham, fat and lean together in the above proportion,
and pound it well in a mortar, seasoning it with cayenne pepper, pounded
mace, and nutmeg; put the mixture into a deep baking-dish, and bake for
1/2 hour; then press it well into a stone jar, fill up the jar with
clarified lard, cover it closely, and paste over it a piece of thick
paper. If well seasoned, it will keep a long time in winter, and will be
found very convenient for sandwiches, &c.
_Time_.--1/2 hour.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
II.
(_A nice addition to the Breakfast or Luncheon table_.)
815. INGREDIENTS.--To 2 lbs. of lean ham allow 1/2 lb. of fat, 1
teaspoonful of pounded mace, 1/2 teaspoonful of pounded allspice, 1/2
nutmeg, pepper to taste, clarified butter.
_Mode_.--Cut some slices from the remains of a cold ham, mince them
small, and to every 2 lbs. of lean, allow the above proportion of fat.
Pound the ham in a mortar to a fine paste, with the fat, gradually add
the seasoning and spices, and be very particular that all the
ingredients are well mixed and the spices well pounded. Press the
mixture into potting-pots, pour over clarified butter, and keep it in a
cool place.
_Average cost_ for this quantity, 2s. 6d.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
IMPORTANCE OF THE BOAR'S HEAD, SCOTTISH FEUDS, &c.--The boar's
head, in ancient times, formed the most important dish on the
table, and was invariably the first placed on the board upon
Christmas-day, being preceded by a body of servitors, a flourish
of trumpets, and other marks of distinction and reverence, and
carried into the hall by the individual of next rank to the lord
of the feast. At some of our colleges and inns of court, the
serving of the boar's head on a silver platter on Christmas-day
is a custom still followed; and till very lately, a bore's head
was competed for at Christmas time by the young men of a rural
parish in Essex. Indeed, so highly was the grizzly boar's head
regarded in former times, that it passed into a cognizance of
some of the noblest families in the realm: thus it was not only
the crest of the Nevills and Warwicks, with their collateral
houses, but it was the cognizance of Richard III., that--
"Wretched, bloody, and usurping boar,
That spoil'd your summer fields and fruitful vines,
Swills your warm blood like wash, and makes his trough
In your embowell'd bosoms,"--
and whose nature it was supposed to typify; and was universally
used as a _sign_ to taverns. The Boar's Head in Eastcheap,
which, till within the last twenty-five years still stood in all
its primitive quaintness, though removed to make way for the
London-bridge approaches, will live vividly in the mind of every
reader of Shakspeare, as the resort of the prince of Wales,
Poins, and his companions, and the residence of Falstaff and his
coney-catching knaves, Bardolph, Pistol, and Nym; and whose sign
was a boar's head, carved in stone over the door, and a smaller
one in wood on each side of the doorway.
The traditions and deeds of savage vengeance recorded in
connection with this grim trophy of the chase are numerous in
all parts of Europe. But the most remarkable connected with the
subject in this country, were two events that occurred in
Scotland, about the 11th and 15th centuries.
A border family having been dispossessed of their castle and
lands by a more powerful chief, were reduced for many years to
great indigence, the expelled owner only living in the hope of
wreaking a terrible vengeance, which, agreeably to the motto of
his house, he was content to "bide his time" for. The usurper
having invited a large number of his kindred to a grand hunt in
his new domains, and a feast after in the great hall, returned
from the chase, and discovering the feast not spread, vented his
wrath in no measured terms on the heads of the tardy servitors.
At length a menial approached, followed by a line of servants,
and placing the boar's head on the table, the guests rushed
forward to begin the meal; when, to their horror, they
discovered, not a boar's but a bull's head,--a sign of death.
The doors were immediately closed, and the false servants, who
were the adherents of the dispossessed chief, threw off their
disguise, and falling on the usurper and his friends, butchered
them and every soul in the castle belonging to the rival
faction.
A tribe of caterans, or mountain robbers, in the Western
Highlands, having been greatly persecuted by a powerful chief of
the district, waylaid him and his retinue, put them all to the
sword, and cutting off the chief's head, repaired to his castle,
where they ordered the terrified wife to supply them with food
and drink. To appease their savage humour, the lady gave order
for their entertainment, and on returning to the hall to see her
orders were complied with, discovered, in place of the boar's
head that should have graced the board, her husband's bleeding
head; the savage caterans, in rude derision, as a substitute for
the apple or lemon usually placed between the jaws, having
thrust a slice of bread in the dead man's mouth.
FOR CURING HAMS (Mons. Ude's Recipe).
816. INGREDIENTS.--For 2 hams weighing about 16 or 18 lbs. each, allow 1
lb. of moist sugar, 1 lb. of common salt, 2 oz. of saltpetre, 1 quart of
good vinegar.
_Mode_.--As soon as the pig is cold enough to be cut up, take the 2 hams
and rub them well with common salt, and leave them in a large pan for 3
days. When the salt has drawn out all the blood, drain the hams, and
throw the brine away. Mix sugar, salt, and saltpetre together in the
above proportion, rub the hams well with these, and put them into a
vessel large enough to hold them, always keeping the salt over them. Let
them remain for 3 days, then pour over them a quart of good vinegar.
Turn them in the brine every day for a month, then drain them well, and
rub them with bran. Have them smoked over a wood fire, and be particular
that the hams are hung as high up as possible from the fire; otherwise
the fat will melt, and they will become dry and hard.
_Time_.--To be pickled 1 month; to be smoked 1 month.
_Sufficient_ for 2 hams of 18 lbs. each.
_Seasonable_ from October to March.
THE PRICE OF A SOW IN AFRICA.--In one of the native states of
Africa, a pig one day stole a piece of food from a child as it
was in the act of conveying the morsel to its mouth; upon which
the robbed child cried so loud that the mother rushed out of her
hovel to ascertain the cause; and seeing the purloining pig make
off munching his booty, the woman in her heat struck the grunter
so smart a blow, that the surly rascal took it into his head to
go home very much indisposed, and after a certain time resolved
to die,--a resolution that he accordingly put into practice;
upon which the owner instituted judicial proceedings before the
Star Chamber court of his tribe, against the husband and family
of the woman whose rash act had led to such results; and as the
pig happened to be a _sow_, in the very flower of her age, the
prospective loss to the owner in unnumbered teems of pigs, with
the expenses attending so high a tribunal, swelled the damages
and costs to such a sum, that it was found impossible to pay
them. And as, in the barbarous justice existing among these rude
people, every member of a family is equally liable as the
individual who committed the wrong, the father, mother,
children, relatives,--an entire community, to the number of
_thirty-two souls_, were sold as slaves, and a fearful sum of
human misery perpetrated, to pay the value of a thieving old
sow.
TO SALT TWO HAMS, about 12 or 15 lbs. each.
817. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of treacle, 1/2 lb. of saltpetre, 1 lb. of
bay-salt, 2 pounds of common salt.
_Mode_.--Two days before they are put into pickle, rub the hams well
with salt, to draw away all slime and blood. Throw what comes from them
away, and then rub them with treacle, saltpetre, and salt. Lay them in a
deep pan, and let them remain one day; boil the above proportion of
treacle, saltpetre, bay-salt, and common salt for 1/4 hour, and pour
this pickle boiling hot over the hams: there should be sufficient of it
to cover them. For a day or two rub them well with it; afterwards they
will only require turning. They ought to remain in this pickle for 3
weeks or a month, and then be sent to be smoked, which will take nearly
or quite a month to do. An ox-tongue pickled in this way is most
excellent, to be eaten either green or smoked.
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