The Book of Household Management - Mrs. Isabella Beeton
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_Time_.--To remain in the pickle 3 weeks or a month; to be smoked about
a month.
_Seasonable_ from October to March.
TO CURE SWEET HAMS IN THE WESTMORELAND WAY.
818. INGREDIENTS.--3 lbs. of common salt, 3 lbs. of coarse sugar, 1 lb.
of bay-salt, 3 quarts of strong beer.
_Mode_.--Before the hams are put into pickle, rub them the preceding day
well with salt, and drain the brine well from them. Put the above
ingredients into a saucepan, and boil for 1/4 hour; pour over the hams,
and let them remain a month in the pickle. Rub and turn them every day,
but do not take them out of the pickling-pan; and have them smoked for a
month.
_Time_.--To be pickled 1 month; to be smoked 1 month.
_Seasonable_ from October to March.
TO PICKLE HAMS (Suffolk Recipe).
819. INGREDIENTS.--To a ham from 10 to 12 lbs., allow 1 lb. of coarse
sugar, 3/4 lb. of salt, 1 oz. of saltpetre, 1/2 a teacupful of vinegar.
_Mode_.--Rub the hams well with common salt, and leave them for a day or
two to drain; then rub well in, the above proportion of sugar, salt,
saltpetre, and vinegar, and turn them every other day. Keep them in the
pickle 1 month, drain them, and send them to be smoked over a wood fire
for 3 weeks or a month.
_Time_.--To remain in the pickle 1 month. To be smoked 3 weeks or 1
month.
_Sufficient_.--The above proportion of pickle sufficient for 1 ham.
_Seasonable_.--Hams should be pickled from October to March.
NOVEL WAY OF RECOVERING A STOLEN PIG.--It is a well-known fact,
that in Ireland the pig is, in every respect, a domesticated
animal, sharing often both the bed and board of the family, and
making an outer ring to the domestic circle, as, seated round
the pot of potatoes, they partake of the midday meal called
dinner. An Irishman upon one occasion having lost an interesting
member of his household, in the form of a promising young
porker, consulted his priest on the occasion, and having hinted
at the person he suspected of purloining the "illegant slip of a
pig" he was advised to take no further notice of the matter, but
leave the issue to his spiritual adviser. Next Sunday his
reverence, after mass, came to the front of the altar-rails, and
looking very hard at the supposed culprit, exclaimed, "Who stole
Pat Doolan's pig?" To this inquiry there was of course no
answer;--the priest did not expect there would be any. The
following Sunday the same query was propounded a little
stronger--"Who of you was it, I say, who stole poor Pat Doolan's
pig?" It now became evident that the culprit was a hardened
sinner; so on the third Sunday, instead of repeating the
unsatisfactory inquiry, the priest, after, as usual, eyeing the
obdurate offender, said, in a tone of pious sorrow, "Mike Regan,
Mike Regan, you treat me with contempt!" That night, when the
family was all asleep, the latch of the door was noiselessly
lifted, and the "illegant slip of a pig" cautiously slipped into
the cabin.
TO SMOKE HAMS AND FISH AT HOME.
820. Take an old hogshead, stop up all the crevices, and fix a place to
put a cross-stick near the bottom, to hang the articles to be smoked on.
Next, in the side, cut a hole near the top, to introduce an iron pan
filled with sawdust and small pieces of green wood. Having turned the
tub upside down, hang the articles upon the cross-stick, introduce the
iron pan in the opening, and place a piece of red-hot iron in the pan,
cover it with sawdust, and all will be complete. Let a large ham remain
40 hours, and keep up a good smoke.
TO CURE BACON OR HAMS IN THE DEVONSHIRE WAY.
821. INGREDIENTS.--To every 14 lbs. of meat, allow 2 oz. of saltpetre, 2
oz. of salt prunella, 1 lb. of common salt. For the pickle, 3 gallons of
water, 5 lbs. of common salt, 7 lbs. of coarse sugar, 3 lbs. of
bay-salt.
_Mode_.--Weigh the sides, hams, and cheeks, and to every 14 lbs. allow
the above proportion of saltpetre, salt prunella, and common salt. Pound
and mix these together, and rub well into the meat; lay it in a stone
trough or tub, rubbing it thoroughly, and turning it daily for 2
successive days. At the end of the second day, pour on it a pickle made
as follows:--Put the above ingredients into a saucepan, set it on the
fire, and stir frequently; remove all the scum, allow it to boil for 1/4
hour, and pour it hot over the meat. Let the hams, &c., be well rubbed
and turned daily; if the meat is small, a fortnight will be sufficient
for the sides and shoulders to remain in the pickle, and the hams 3
weeks; if from 30 lbs. and upwards, 3 weeks will be required for the
sides, &c., and from 4 to 5 weeks for the hams. On taking the pieces
out, let them drain for an hour, cover with dry sawdust, and smoke from
a fortnight to 3 weeks. Boil and carefully skim the pickle after using,
and it will keep good, closely corked, for 2 years. When boiling it for
use, add about 2 lbs. of common salt, and the same of treacle, to allow
for waste. Tongues are excellent put into this pickle cold, having been
first rubbed well with saltpetre and salt, and allowed to remain 24
hours, not forgetting to make a deep incision under the thick part of
the tongue, so as to allow the pickle to penetrate more readily. A
fortnight or 3 weeks, according to the size of the tongue, will be
sufficient.
_Time_--Small meat to remain in the pickle a fortnight, hams 3 weeks; to
be smoked from a fortnight to 3 weeks.
The following is from Morton's "Cyclopaedia of Agriculture," and will be
found fully worthy of the high character of that publication.
CURING OF HAMS AND BACON.
822. The carcass of the hog, after hanging over-night to cool, is laid
on a strong bench or stool, and the head is separated from the body at
the neck, close behind the ears; the feet and also the internal fat are
removed. The carcass is next divided into two sides in the following
manner:--The ribs are divided about an inch from the spine on each side,
and the spine, with the ends of the ribs attached, together with the
internal flesh between it and the kidneys, and also the flesh above it,
throughout the whole length of the sides, are removed. The portion of
the carcass thus cut out is in the form of a wedge--the breadth of the
interior consisting of the breadth of the spine, and about an inch of
the ribs on each side, being diminished to about half an inch at the
exterior or skin along the back. The breast-bone, and also the first
anterior rib, are also dissected from the side. Sometimes the whole of
the ribs are removed; but this, for reasons afterwards to be noticed, is
a very bad practice. When the hams are cured separately from the sides,
which is generally the case, they are cut out so as to include the
hock-bone, in a similar manner to the London mode of cutting a haunch of
mutton. The carcass of the hog thus cut up is ready for being salted,
which process, in large caring establishments, is generally as follows.
The skin side of the pork is rubbed over with a mixture of fifty parts
by weight of salt, and one part of saltpetre in powder, and the incised
parts of the ham or flitch, and the inside of the flitch covered with
the same. The salted bacon, in pairs of flitches with the insides to
each other, is piled one pair of flitches above another on benches
slightly inclined, and furnished with spouts or troughs to convey the
brine to receivers in the floor of the salting-house, to be afterwards
used for pickling pork for navy purposes. In this state the bacon
remains a fortnight, which is sufficient for flitches cut from nogs of a
carcass weight less than 15 stone (14 lbs. to the stone). Flitches of a
larger size, at the expiration of that time, are wiped dry and reversed
in their place in the pile, having, at the same time, about half the
first quantity of fresh, dry, common salt sprinkled over the inside and
incised parts; after which they remain on the benches for another week.
Hams being thicker than flitches, will require, when less than 20 lbs.
weight, 3 weeks; and when above that weight, 4 weeks to remain under the
above-described process. The next and last process in the preparation of
bacon and hams, previous to being sent to market, is drying. This is
effected by hanging the flitches and hams for 2 or 3 weeks in a room
heated by stoves, or in a smoke-house, in which they are exposed for the
same length of time to the smoke arising from the slow combustion of the
sawdust of oak or other hard wood. The latter mode of completing the
curing process has some advantages over the other, as by it the meat is
subject to the action of _creosote_, a volatile oil produced by the
combustion of the sawdust, which is powerfully antiseptic. The process
also furnishing a thin covering of a resinous varnish, excludes the air
not only from the muscle but also from the fat; thus effectually
preventing the meat from becoming rusted; and the principal reasons for
condemning the practice of removing the ribs from the flitches of pork
are, that by so doing the meat becomes unpleasantly hard and pungent in
the process of salting, and by being more opposed to the action of the
air, becomes sooner and more extensively rusted. Notwithstanding its
superior efficacy in completing the process of curing, the flavour which
smoke-drying imparts to meat is disliked by many persons, and it is
therefore by no means the most general mode of drying adopted by
mercantile curers. A very impure variety of _pyroligneous_ acid, or
vinegar made from the destructive distillation of wood, is sometimes
used, on account of the highly preservative power of the creosote which
it contains, and also to impart the smoke-flavour; in which latter
object, however, the coarse flavour of tar is given, rather than that
derived from the smoke from combustion of wood. A considerable portion
of the bacon and hams salted in Ireland is exported from that country
packed amongst salt, in bales, immediately from the salting process,
without having been in any degree dried. In the process of salting above
described, pork loses from eight to ten per cent. of its weight,
according to the size and quality of the meat; and a further diminution
of weight, to the extent of five to six per cent., takes place in drying
during the first fortnight after being taken out of salt; so that the
total loss in weight occasioned by the preparation of bacon and hams in
a proper state for market, is not less on an average than fifteen per
cent. on the weight of the fresh pork.
COLLARED PIG'S FACE (a Breakfast or Luncheon Dish).
823. INGREDIENTS.--1 pig's face; salt. For brine, 1 gallon of spring
water, 1 lb. of common salt, 1/2 handful of chopped juniper-berries, 6
bruised cloves, 2 bay-leaves, a few sprigs of thyme, basil, sage, 1/4
oz. of saltpetre. For forcemeat, 1/2 lb. of ham, 1/2 lb. bacon, 1
teaspoonful of mixed spices, pepper to taste, 1/4 lb. of lard, 1
tablespoonful of minced parsley, 6 young onions.
[Illustration: PIG'S FACE.]
_Mode_.--Singe the head carefully, bone it without breaking the skin,
and rub it well with salt. Make the brine by boiling the above
ingredients for 1/4 hour, and letting it stand to cool. When cold, pour
it over the head, and let it steep in this for 10 days, turning and
rubbing it often. Then wipe, drain, and dry it. For the forcemeat, pound
the ham and bacon very finely, and mix with these the remaining
ingredients, taking care that the whole is thoroughly incorporated.
Spread this equally over the head, roll it tightly in a cloth, and bind
it securely with broad tape. Put it into a saucepan with a few meat
trimmings, and cover it with stock; let it simmer gently for 4 hours,
and be particular that it does not stop boiling the whole time. When
quite tender, take it up, put it between 2 dishes with a heavy weight on
the top, and when cold, remove the cloth and tape. It should be sent to
table on a napkin, or garnished with a piece of deep white paper with a
ruche at the top.
_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, from 2s. to 2s. 6d.
_Seasonable_ from October to March.
THE WILD AND DOMESTIC HOG.--The domestic hog is the descendant
of a race long since banished from this island; and it is
remarkable, that while the tamed animal has been and is kept
under surveillance, the wild type whence this race sprung, has
maintained itself in its ancient freedom, the fierce denizen of
the forest, and one of the renowned beasts of the chase.
Whatever doubt may exist as to the true origin of the dog, the
horse, the ox, and others, or as to whether their original race
is yet extant or not, these doubts do not apply to the domestic
hog. Its wild source still exists, and is universally
recognized: like the wolf, however, it has been expelled from
our island; but, like that animal, it still roams through the
vast wooded tracts of Europe and Asia.
TO DRESS PIG'S FRY (a Savoury Dish).
824. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of pig's fry, 2 onions, a few sage-leaves,
3 lbs. of potatoes, pepper and salt to taste.
_Mode_.--Put the lean fry at the bottom of a pie-dish, sprinkle over it
some minced sage and onion, and a seasoning of pepper and salt; slice
the potatoes; put a layer of these on the seasoning, then the fat fry,
then more seasoning, and a layer of potatoes at the top. Fill the dish
with boiling water, and bake for 2 hours, or rather longer.
_Time_.--Rather more than 2 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.
_Seasonable_ from October to March.
TO MELT LARD.
825. Melt the inner fat of the pig, by putting it in a stone jar, and
placing this in a saucepan of boiling water, previously stripping off
the skin. Let it simmer gently over a bright fire, and as it melts, pour
it carefully from the sediment. Put it into small jars or bladders for
use, and keep it in a cool place. The flead or inside fat of the pig,
before it is melted, makes exceedingly light crust, and is particularly
wholesome. It may be preserved a length of time by salting it well, and
occasionally changing the brine. When wanted for use, wash and wipe it,
and it will answer for making into paste as well as fresh lard.
_Average cost_, 10d. per lb.
BOILED LEG OF PORK.
826. INGREDIENTS.--Leg of pork; salt.
_Mode_.--For boiling, choose a small, compact, well-filled leg, and rub
it well with salt; let it remain in pickle for a week or ten days,
turning and rubbing it every day. An hour before dressing it, put it
into cold water for an hour, which improves the colour. If the pork is
purchased ready salted, ascertain how long the meat has been in pickle,
and soak it accordingly. Put it into a boiling-pot, with sufficient cold
water to cover it; let it gradually come to a boil, and remove the scum
as it rises. Simmer it very gently until tender, and do not allow it to
boil fast, or the knuckle will fall to pieces before the middle of the
leg is done. Carrots, turnips, or parsnips may be boiled with the pork,
some of which should be laid round the dish as a garnish, and a
well-made pease-pudding is an indispensable accompaniment.
_Time_.--A leg of pork weighing 8 lbs., 3 hours after the water boils,
and to be simmered very gently.
_Average cost_, 9d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.
_Seasonable_ from September to March.
_Note_.--The liquor in which a leg of pork has been boiled, makes
excellent pea-soup.
ANTIQUITY OF THE HOG.--The hog has survived changes which have
swept multitudes of pachydermatous animals from the surface of
our earth. It still presents the same characteristics, both
physical and moral, which the earliest writers, whether sacred
or profane, have faithfully delineated. Although the domestic
has been more or less modified by long culture, yet the wild
species remains unaltered, insomuch that the fossil relics may
be identified with the bones of their existing descendants.
ROAST GRISKIN OF PORK.
827. INGREDIENTS.--Pork; a little powdered sage.
[Illustration: SPARE-RIB OF PORK.]
[Illustration: GRISKIN OF PORK.]
_Mode_.--As this joint frequently comes to table hard and dry,
particular care should be taken that it is well basted. Put it down to a
bright fire, and flour it. About 10 minutes before taking it up,
sprinkle over some powdered sage; make a little gravy in the
dripping-pan, strain it over the meat, and serve with a tureen of apple
sauce. This joint will be done in far less time than when the skin is
left on, consequently, should have the greatest attention that it be not
dried up.
_Time_.--Griskin of pork weighing 6 lbs., 1-1/2 hour.
_Average cost_, 7d. per lb. _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from September to March.
_Note_.--A spare-rib of pork is roasted in the same manner as above, and
would take 1-1/2 hour for one weighing about 6 lbs.
[Illustration: BACON FOR LARDING, AND LARDING-NEEDLE.]
LARDING.
828. INGREDIENTS.--Bacon and larding-needle.
_Mode_.--Bacon for larding should be firm and fat, and ought to be cured
without any saltpetre, as this reddens white meats. Lay it on a table,
the rinds downwards; trim off any rusty part, and cut it into slices of
an equal thickness. Place the slices one on the top of another, and cut
them evenly into narrow strips, so arranging it that every piece of
bacon is of the same size. Bacon for fricandeau, poultry, and game,
should be about 2 inches in length, and rather more than one-eighth of
an inch in width. If for larding fillets of beef or loin of veal, the
pieces of bacon must be thicker. The following recipe of Soyer is, we
think, very explicit; and any cook, by following the directions here
given, may be able to lard, if not well, sufficiently for general use.
"Have the fricandeau trimmed, lay it, lengthwise, upon a clean napkin
across your hand, forming a kind of bridge with your thumb at the part
you are about to commence at; then with the point of the larding-needle
make three distinct lines across, 1/2 inch apart; run the needle into
the third line, at the further side of the fricandeau, and bring it out
at the first, placing one of the lardoons in it; draw the needle
through, leaving out 1/4 inch of the bacon at each line; proceed thus to
the end of the row; then make another line, 1/2 inch distant, stick in
another row of lardoons, bringing them out at the second line, leaving
the ends of the bacon out all the same length; make the next row again
at the same distance, bringing the ends out between the lardoons of the
first row, proceeding in this manner until the whole surface is larded
in chequered rows. Everything else is larded in a similar way; and, in
the case of poultry, hold the breast over a charcoal fire for one
minute, or dip it into boiling water, in order to make the flesh firm."
ROAST LOIN OF PORK.
829. INGREDIENTS.--Pork; a little salt.
[Illustration: FORE LOIN OF PORK.]
[Illustration: HIND LOIN OF PORK.]
_Mode_.--Score the skin in strips rather more than 1/4 inch apart, and
place the joint at a good distance from the fire, on account of the
crackling, which would harden before the meat would be heated through,
were it placed too near. If very lean, it should be rubbed over with a
little salad oil, and kept well basted all the time it is at the fire.
Pork should be very thoroughly cooked, but not dry; and be careful never
to send it to table the least underdone, as nothing is more unwholesome
and disagreeable than underdressed white meats. Serve with apple sauce,
No. 363, and a little gravy made in the dripping-pan. A stuffing of sage
and onion may be made separately, and baked in a flat dish: this method
is better than putting it in the meat, as many persons have so great an
objection to the flavour.
_Time_.--A loin of pork weighing 5 lbs., about 2 hours: allow more time
should it be very fat.
_Average cost_, 9d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from September to March.
FOSSIL REMAINS OF THE HOG.--In British strata, the oldest fossil
remains of the hog which Professor Owen states that he has
examined, were from fissures in the red crag (probably miocene)
of Newbourne, near Woodbridge, Suffolk. "They were associated
with teeth of an extinct _felis_ about the size of a leopard,
with those of a bear, and with remains of a large cervus. These
mammalian remains were found with the ordinary fossils of the
red crag: they had undergone the same process of trituration,
and were impregnated with the same colouring matter as the
associated bones and teeth of fishes acknowledged to be derived
from the regular strata of the red crag. These mammaliferous
beds have been proved by Mr. Lyell to be older than the
fluvio-marine, or Norwich crag, in which remains of the
mastodon, rhinoceros, and horse have been discovered; and still
older than the fresh-water pleistocene deposits, from which the
remains of the mammoth, rhinoceros, &c. are obtained in such
abundance. I have met," says the professor, in addition, "with
some satisfactory instances of the association of fossil remains
of a species of hog with those of the mammoth, in the newer
pliocene freshwater formations of England."
TO DRY PIGS' CHEEKS.
830. INGREDIENTS.--Salt, 4 oz. of saltpetre, 2 oz. of bay-salt, 4 oz. of
coarse sugar.
_Mode_.--Cut out the snout, remove the brains, and split the head,
taking off the upper bone to make the jowl a good shape; rub it well
with salt; next day take away the brine, and salt it again the following
day; cover the head with saltpetre, bay-salt, and coarse sugar, in the
above proportion, adding a little common salt. Let the head be often
turned, and when it has been in the pickle for 10 days, smoke it for a
week or rather longer.
_Time_.--To remain in the pickle 10 days; to be smoked 1 week.
_Seasonable_.--Should be made from September to March.
_Note_.--A pig's check, or Bath chap, will take about 2 hours after the
water boils.
PIG'S LIVER (a Savoury and Economical Dish).
831. INGREDIENTS.--The liver and lights of a pig, 6 or 7 slices of
bacon, potatoes, 1 large bunch of parsley, 2 onions, 2 sage-leaves,
pepper and salt to taste, a little broth or water.
_Mode_.--Slice the liver and lights, and wash these perfectly clean, and
parboil the potatoes; mince the parsley and sage, and chop the onion
rather small. Put the meat, potatoes, and bacon into a deep tin dish, in
alternate layers, with a sprinkling of the herbs, and a seasoning of
pepper and salt between each; pour on a little water or broth, and bake
in a moderately-heated oven for 2 hours.
_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d.
_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.
_Seasonable_ from September to March.
PIG'S PETTITOES.
832. INGREDIENTS.--A thin slice of bacon, 1 onion, 1 blade of mace, 6
peppercorns, 3 or 4 sprigs of thyme, 1 pint of gravy, pepper and salt to
taste, thickening of butter and flour.
_Mode_.--Put the liver, heart, and pettitoes into a stewpan with the
bacon, mace, peppercorns, thyme, onion, and gravy, and simmer these
gently for 1/4 hour; then take out the heart and liver, and mince them
very fine. Keep stewing the feet until quite tender, which will be in
from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour, reckoning from the time that they boiled up
first; then put back the minced liver, thicken the gravy with a little
butter and flour, season with pepper and salt, and simmer over a gentle
fire for 5 minutes, occasionally stirring the contents. Dish the mince,
split the feet, and arrange them round alternately with sippets of
toasted bread, and pour the gravy in the middle.
_Time_.--Altogether 40 minutes.
_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.
_Seasonable_ from September to March.
TO PICKLE PORK.
833. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of saltpetre; salt.
_Mode_.--As pork does not keep long without being salted, cut it into
pieces of a suitable size as soon as the pig is cold. Rub the pieces of
pork well with salt, and put them into a pan with a sprinkling of it
between each piece: as it melts on the top, strew on more. Lay a coarse
cloth over the pan, a board over that, and a weight on the board, to
keep the pork down in the brine. If excluded from the air, it will
continue good for nearly 2 years.
_Average cost_, 10d. per lb. for the prime parts.
_Seasonable_.--The best time for pickling meat is late in the autumn.
THE UNIVERSALITY OF THE HOG.--A singular circumstance in the
domestic history of the hog, is the extent of its distribution
over the surface of the earth; being found even in insulated
places, where the inhabitants are semi-barbarous, and where the
wild species is entirely unknown. The South-Sea islands, for
example, were found on their discovery to be well stocked with a
small black hog; and the traditionary belief of the people was
that these animals were coeval with the origin of themselves.
Yet they possessed no knowledge of the wild boar, or any other
animal of the hog kind, from which the domestic breed might be
supposed to be derived. In these islands the hog is the
principal quadruped, and the fruit of the bread-tree is its
principal food, although it is also fed with yams, eddoes, and
other vegetables. This nutritious diet, which it has in great
abundance, is, according to Foster, the reason of its flesh
being so delicious, so full of juice, and so rich in fat, which
is not less delicate to the taste than the finest butter.
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