The Book of Household Management - Mrs. Isabella Beeton
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851. IT IS SOMETIMES A MATTER OF CONSIDERABLE TROUBLE to induce the
blundering calf--whose instinct only teaches him to suck, and that he
will do at anything and with anything--acquire the knowledge of
imbibition, that for the first few days it is often necessary to fill a
bottle with milk, and, opening his mouth, pour the contents down his
throat. The manner, however, by which he is finally educated into the
mystery of suction, is by putting his allowance of milk into a large
wooden bowl; the nurse then puts her hand into the milk, and, by bending
her fingers upwards, makes a rude teat for the calf to grasp in his
lips, when the vacuum caused by his suction of the fingers, causes the
milk to rise along them into his mouth. In this manner one by one the
whole family are to be fed three times a day; care being taken, that
new-born calves are not, at first, fed on milk from a cow who has some
days calved.
852. AS THE CALF PROGRESSES TOWARDS HIS TENTH WEEK, his diet requires to
be increased in quantity and quality; for these objects, his milk can be
thickened with flour or meal, and small pieces of softened oil-cake are
to be slipped into his mouth after sucking, that they may dissolve
there, till he grows familiar with, and to like the taste, when it may
be softened and scraped down into his milk-and-water. After a time,
sliced turnips softened by steam are to be given to him in tolerable
quantities; then succulent grasses; and finally, hay may be added to the
others. Some farmers, desirous of rendering their calves fat for the
butcher in as short a time as possible, forget both the natural weakness
of the digestive powers, and the contracted volume of the stomach, and
allow the animals either to suck _ad libitum_, or give them, if brought
up at the pail or by hand, a larger quantity of milk than they can
digest. The idea of overloading the stomach never suggests itself to
their minds. They suppose that the more food the young creature
consumes, the sooner it will be fat, and they allow it no exercise
whatever, for fear it should denude its very bones of their flesh. Under
such circumstances, the stomach soon becomes deranged; its functions are
no longer capable of acting; the milk, subjected to the acid of the
stomach, coagulates, and forms a hardened mass of curd, when the muscles
become affected with spasms, and death frequently ensues.
853. THERE WAS NO SPECIES OF SLAUGHTERING practised in this country so
inhuman and disgraceful as that, till very lately, employed in killing
this poor animal; when, under the plea of making the flesh _white_, the
calf was bled day by day, till, when the final hour came, the animal was
unable to stand. This inhumanity is, we believe, now everywhere
abolished, and the calf is at once killed, and with the least amount of
pain; a sharp-pointed knife is run through the neck, severing all the
large veins and arteries up to the vertebrae. The skin is then taken off
to the knee, which is disjointed, and to the head, which is removed; it
is then reflected backwards, and the carcase having been opened and
dressed, is kept apart by stretchers, and the thin membrane, the caul,
extended over the organs left in the carcase, as the kidneys and
sweet-bread; some melted fat is then scattered suddenly over the whole
interior, giving that white and frosted appearance to the meat, that is
thought to add to its beauty; the whole is then hung up to cool and
harden.
854. THE MANNER OF CUTTING UP VEAL for the English market is to divide
the carcase into four quarters, with eleven ribs to each fore quarter;
which are again subdivided into joints as exemplified on the cut.
[Illustration: SIDE OF A CALF, SHOWING THE SEVERAL JOINTS.]
_Hind quarter_:--
1. The loin.
2. The chump, consisting of the rump
and hock-bone.
3. The fillet.
4. The hock, or hind knuckle.
_Fore quarter_:--
5. The shoulder.
6. The neck.
7. The breast.
8. The fore knuckle.
855. THE SEVERAL PARTS OF A MODERATELY-SIZED WELL-FED CALF, about eight
weeks old, are nearly of the following weights:--loin and chump 18 lbs.,
fillet 12-1/2 lbs., hind knuckle 5-1/2 lbs., shoulder 11 lbs, neck 11
lbs., breast 9 lbs., and fore knuckle 5 lbs.; making a total of 144 lbs.
weight. The London mode of cutting the carcase is considered better than
that pursued in Edinburgh, as giving three roasting joints, and one
boiling, in each quarter; besides the pieces being more equally divided,
as regards flesh, and from the handsomer appearance they make on the
table.
RECIPES.
CHAPTER XIX.
BAKED VEAL (Cold Meat Cookery).
856. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of cold roast veal, a few slices of bacon, 1
pint of bread crumbs, 1/2 pint of good veal gravy, 1/2 teaspoonful of
minced lemon-peel, 1 blade of pounded mace, cayenne and salt to taste, 4
eggs.
_Mode_.--Mince finely the veal and bacon; add the bread crumbs, gravy,
and seasoning, and stir these ingredients well together. Beat up the
eggs thoroughly; add these, mix the whole well together, put into a
dish, and bake from 3/4 to 1 hour. When liked, a little good gravy may
be served in a tureen as an accompaniment.
_Time_.--From 3/4 to 1 hour.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d.
_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
ROAST BREAST OF VEAL.
[Illustration: BREAST OF VEAL.]
857. INGREDIENTS.--Veal; a little flour.
_Mode_.--Wash the veal, well wipe it, and dredge it with flour; put it
down to a bright fire, not too near, as it should not be scorched. Baste
it plentifully until done; dish it, pour over the meat some good melted
butter, and send to table with it a piece of boiled bacon and a cut
lemon.
_Time_.--From 1-1/2 to 2 hours.
_Average cost_, 8-1/2d. per lb. _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
STEWED BREAST OF VEAL AND PEAS.
858. INGREDIENTS.--Breast of veal, 2 oz. of butter, a bunch of savoury
herbs, including parsley; 2 blades of pounded mace, 2 cloves, 5 or 6
young onions, 1 strip of lemon-peel, 6 allspice, 1/4 teaspoonful of
pepper, 1 teaspoonful of salt, thickening of butter and flour, 2
tablespoonfuls of sherry, 2 tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, 1
tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup,
green peas.
_Mode_.--Cut the breast in half, after removing the bone underneath, and
divide the meat into convenient-sized pieces. Put the butter into a
frying-pan, lay in the pieces of veal, and fry until of a nice brown
colour. Now place these in a stewpan with the herbs, mace, cloves,
onions, lemon-peel, allspice, and seasoning; pour over them just
sufficient boiling water to cover the meat; well close the lid, and let
the whole simmer very gently for about 2 hours. Strain off as much gravy
as is required, thicken it with butter and flour, add the remaining
ingredients, skim well, let it simmer for about 10 minutes, then pour it
over the meat. Have ready some green peas, boiled separately; sprinkle
these over the veal, and serve. It may be garnished with forcemeat
balls, or rashers of bacon curled and fried. Instead of cutting up the
meat, many persons prefer it dressed whole;--in that case it should be
half-roasted before the water, &c. are put to it.
_Time_.--2-1/4 hours. _Average cost_, 8-1/2d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
BREEDING OF CALVES.--The forwarding of calves to maturity,
whether intended to be reared for stock, or brought to an early
market as veal, is always a subject of great importance, and
requires a considerable amount of intelligence in the selection
of the best course, to adopt for either end. When meant to be
reared as stock, the breeding should be so arranged that the cow
shall calve about the middle of May. As our subject, however,
has more immediate reference to the calf as _meat_ than as
_stock_, we shall confine our remarks to the mode of procedure
adopted in the former case; and here, the first process adopted
is that of weaning; which consists in separating the calf
_entirely_ from the cow, but, at the same time, rearing it on
the mother's milk. As the business of the dairy would be
suspended if every cow were allowed to rear its young, and
butter, cheese, and cream become _desiderata_,--things to be
desired, but not possessed, a system of economical husbandry
becomes necessary, so as to retain our dairy produce, and yet,
for some weeks at least, nourish the calf on its mother's milk,
but without allowing the animal to draw that supply for itself:
this, with the proper substituted food on which to rear the
young animal, is called weaning.
VEAL CAKE (a Convenient Dish for a Picnic).
859. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of cold roast veal, a few slices of cold
ham, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, a little
pepper, good gravy.
_Mode_.--Cut off all the brown outside from the veal, and cut the eggs
into slices. Procure a pretty mould; lay veal, ham, eggs, and parsley in
layers, with a little pepper between each, and when the mould is full,
get some _strong_ stock, and fill up the shape. Bake for 1/2 hour, and
when cold, turn it out.
_Time_.--1/2 hour.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
BOILED CALF'S FEET AND PARSLEY AND BUTTER.
860. INGREDIENTS.--2 calf's feet, 2 slices of bacon, 2 oz. of butter, 2
tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, salt and whole pepper to taste, 1 onion,
a bunch of savoury herbs, 4 cloves, 1 blade of mace, water, parsley and
butter No. 493.
_Mode_.--Procure 2 white calf's feet; bone them as far as the first
joint, and put them into warm water to soak for 2 hours. Then put the
bacon, butter, lemon-juice, onion, herbs, spices, and seasoning into a
stewpan; lay in the feet, and pour in just sufficient water to cover the
whole. Stew gently for about 3 hours; take out the feet, dish them, and
cover with parsley and butter, made by recipe No. 493. The liquor they
were boiled in should be strained and put by in a clean basin for use:
it will be found very good as an addition to gravies, &c. &c.
_Time_.--Rather more than 3 hours.
_Average cost_, in full season, 9d. each. _Sufficient_ for 4 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
WHEN A CALF SHOULD BE KILLED.--The age at which a calf ought to
be killed should not be under four weeks: before that time the
flesh is certainly not wholesome, wanting firmness, due
development of muscular fibre, and those animal juices on which
the flavour and nutritive properties of the flesh depend,
whatever the unhealthy palate of epicures may deem to the
contrary. In France, a law exists to prevent the slaughtering of
calves under _six weeks_ of age. The calf is considered in prime
condition at ten weeks, when he will weigh from sixteen to
eighteen stone, and sometimes even twenty.
FRICASSEED CALF'S FEET.
861. INGREDIENTS.--A set of calf's feet; for the batter allow for each
egg 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 tablespoonful of bread crumbs, hot lard
or clarified dripping, pepper and salt to taste.
_Mode_.--If the feet are purchased uncleaned, dip them into warm water
repeatedly, and scrape off the hair, first one foot and then the other,
until the skin looks perfectly clean, a saucepan of water being kept by
the fire until they are finished. After washing and soaking in cold
water, boil them in just sufficient water to cover them, until the bones
come easily away. Then pick them out, and after straining the liquor
into a clean vessel, put the meat into a pie-dish until the next day.
Now cut it down in slices about 1/2 inch thick, lay on them a stiff
batter made of egg, flour, and bread crumbs in the above proportion;
season with pepper and salt, and plunge them into a pan of boiling lard.
Fry the slices a nice brown, dry them before the fire for a minute or
two, dish them on a napkin, and garnish with tufts of parsley. This
should be eaten with melted butter, mustard, and vinegar. Be careful to
have the lard boiling to set the batter, or the pieces of feet will run
about the pan. The liquor they were boiled in should be saved, and will
be found useful for enriching gravies, making jellies, &e. &e.
_Time_.--About 3 hours to stew the feet, 10 or 15 minutes to fry them.
_Average cost_, in full season, 9d. each.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
_Note_.--This dish can be highly recommended to delicate persons.
COLOUR OF VEAL.--As whiteness of flesh is considered a great
advantage in veal, butchers, in the selection of their calves,
are in the habit of examining the inside of its mouth, and
noting the colour of the calf's eyes; alleging that, from the
signs they there see, they can prognosticate whether the veal
will be white or florid.
COLLARED CALF'S HEAD.
862. INGREDIENTS.--A calf's head, 4 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, 4
blades of pounded mace, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, white pepper
to taste, a few thick slices of ham, the yolks of 6 eggs boiled hard.
_Mode_.--Scald the head for a few minutes; take it out of the water, and
with a blunt knife scrape off all the hair. Clean it nicely, divide the
head and remove the brains. Boil it tender enough to take out the bones,
which will be in about 2 hours. When the head is boned, flatten it on
the table, sprinkle over it a thick layer of parsley, then a layer of
ham, and then the yolks of the eggs cut into thin rings and put a
seasoning of pounded mace, nutmeg, and white pepper between each layer;
roll the head up in a cloth, and tie it up as tightly as possible. Boil
it for 4 hours, and when it is taken out of the pot, place a heavy
weight on the top, the same as for other collars. Let it remain till
cold; then remove the cloth and binding, and it will be ready to serve.
_Time_.--Altogether 6 hours. _Average cost_, 5s. to 7s. each.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
FEEDING A CALF.--The amount of milk necessary for a calf for
some time, will be about four quarts a day, though, after the
first fortnight, that quantity should be gradually increased,
according to its development of body, when, if fed exclusively
on milk, as much as three gallons a day will be requisite for
the due health and requirements of the animal. If the weather
is fine and genial, it should be turned into an orchard or small
paddock for a few hours each day, to give it an opportunity to
acquire a relish for the fresh pasture, which, by the tenth or
twelfth week, it will begin to nibble and enjoy. After a certain
time, the quantity of milk may be diminished, and its place
supplied by water thickened with meal. Hay-tea and linseed-jelly
are also highly nutritious substances, and may be used either as
adjuncts or substitutes.
FRICASSEED CALF'S HEAD (an Entree).
863. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of a boiled calf's head, 1-1/2 pint of
the liquor in which the head was boiled, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1
onion minced, a bunch of savoury herbs, salt and white pepper to taste,
thickening of butter and flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of
lemon-juice, forcemeat balls.
_Mode_.--Remove all the bones from the head, and cut the meat into nice
square pieces. Put 1-1/2 pint of the liquor it was boiled in into a
saucepan, with mace, onion, herbs, and seasoning in the above
proportion; let this simmer gently for 3/4 hour, then strain it and put
in the meat. When quite hot through, thicken the gravy with a little
butter rolled in flour, and, just before dishing the fricassee, put in
the beaten yolks of eggs and lemon-juice; but be particular, after these
two latter ingredients are added, that the sauce does not boil, or it
will curdle. Garnish with forcemeat balls and curled slices of broiled
bacon. To insure the sauce being smooth, it is a good plan to dish the
meat first, and then to add the eggs to the gravy: when these are set,
the sauce may be poured over the meat.
_Time_.--Altogether, 1-1/4 hour.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d.
CALF'S HEAD a la Maitre d'Hotel.
864. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of a cold calf's head, rather more than
1/2 pint of Maitre d'hotel sauce No. 466.
_Mode_.--Make the sauce by recipe No. 466, and have it sufficiently
thick that it may nicely cover the meat; remove the bones from the head,
and cut the meat into neat slices. When the sauce is ready, lay in the
meat; let it _gradually_ warm through, and, after it boils up, let it
simmer very gently for 5 minutes, and serve.
_Time_.--Rather more than 1-1/2 hour.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 1s. 2d.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
THE CALF IN AMERICA.--In America, the calf is left with the
mother for three or four days, when it is removed, and at once
fed on barley and oats ground together and made into a gruel, 1
quart of the meal being boiled for half an hour in 12 quarts of
water. One quart of this certainly nutritious gruel, is to be
given, lukewarm, morning and evening. In ten days, a bundle of
soft hay is put beside the calf, which he soon begins to eat,
and, at the same time, some of the dry meal is placed in his
manger for him to lick. This process, gradually increasing the
quantity of gruel twice a day, is continued for two months, till
the calf is fit to go to grass, and, as it is said, with the
best possible success. But, in this country, the mode pointed
out in No. 862 has received the sanction of the best experience.
CURRIED VEAL (Cold Meat Cookery).
865. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast veal, 4 onions, 2 apples
sliced, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1/2
pint of broth or water, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice.
_Mode_.--Slice the onions and apples, and fry them in a little butter;
then take them out, cut the meat into neat cutlets, and fry these of a
pale brown; add the curry-powder and flour, put in the onion, apples,
and a little broth or water, and stew gently till quite tender; add the
lemon-juice, and serve with an edging of boiled rice. The curry may be
ornamented with pickles, capsicums, and gherkins arranged prettily on
the top.
_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
VEAL CUTLETS (an Entree).
866. INGREDIENTS.--About 3 lbs. of the prime part of the leg of veal,
egg and bread crumbs, 3 tablespoonfuls of minced savoury herbs, salt and
popper to taste, a small piece of butter.
[Illustration: VEAL CUTLETS.]
_Mode_.--Have the veal cut into slices about 3/4 of an inch in
thickness, and, if not cut perfectly even, level the meat with a
cutlet-bat or rolling-pin. Shape and trim the cutlets, and brush them
over with egg. Sprinkle with bread crumbs, with which have been mixed
minced herbs and a seasoning of pepper and salt, and press the crumbs
down. Fry them of a delicate brown in fresh lard or butter, and be
careful not to burn them. They should be very thoroughly done, but not
dry. If the cutlets be thick, keep the pan covered for a few minutes at
a good distance from the fire, after they have acquired a good colour:
by this means, the meat will be done through. Lay the cutlets in a dish,
keep them hot, and make a gravy in the pan as follows: Dredge in a
little flour, add a piece of butter the size of a walnut, brown it, then
pour as much boiling water as is required over it, season with pepper
and salt, add a little lemon-juice, give one boil, and pour it over the
cutlets. They should be garnished with slices of broiled bacon, and a
few forcemeat balls will be found a very excellent addition to this
dish.
_Time_.--For cutlets of a moderate thickness, about 12 minutes; if very
thick, allow more time.
_Average cost_, 10d. per lb. _Sufficient_ for 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
_Note_.--Veal cutlets may be merely floured and fried of a nice brown;
the gravy and garnishing should be the same as in the preceding recipe.
They may also be cut from the loin or neck, as shown in the engraving.
BROILED VEAL CUTLETS a l'Italienne (an Entree).
867. INGREDIENTS.--Neck of veal, salt and pepper to taste, the yolk of 1
egg, bread crumbs, 1/2 pint of Italian sauce No. 453.
_Mode_.--Cut the veal into cutlets, flatten and trim them nicely; powder
over them a little salt and pepper; brush them over with the yolk of an
egg, dip them into bread crumbs, then into clarified butter, and,
afterwards, in the bread crumbs again; broil or fry them over a clear
fire, that they may acquire a good brown colour. Arrange them in the
dish alternately with rashers of broiled ham, and pour the sauce, made
by recipe No. 453, in the middle.
_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes, according to the thickness of the cutlets.
_Average cost_, 10d. per lb.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
THE CALF'S-HEAD CLUB.--When the restoration of Charles II. took
the strait waistcoat off the minds and morose religion of the
Commonwealth period, and gave a loose rein to the
long-compressed spirits of the people, there still remained a
large section of society wedded to the former state of things.
The elders of this party retired from public sight, where,
unoffended by the reigning saturnalia, they might dream in
seclusion over their departed Utopia. The young bloods of this
school, however, who were compelled to mingle in the world, yet
detesting the politics which had become the fashion, adopted a
novel expedient to keep alive their republican sentiments, and
mark their contempt of the reigning family. They accordingly
met, in considerable numbers, at some convenient inn, on the
30th of January in each year,--the anniversary of Charles's
death, and dined together off a feast prepared from _calves'
heads_, dressed in every possible variety of way, and with an
abundance of wine drank toasts of defiance and hatred to the
house of Stuart, and glory to the memory of old Holl Cromwell;
and having lighted a large bonfire in the yard, the club of fast
young Puritans, with their white handkerchiefs stained _red_ in
wine, and one of the party in a mask, bearing an axe, followed
by the chairman, carrying a _calf's head_ pinned up in a napkin,
marched in mock procession to the bonfire, into which, with
great shouts and uproar, they flung the enveloped head. This odd
custom was continued for some time, and even down to the early
part of this century it was customary for men of republican
politics always to dine off calf's head on the 30th of January.
VEAL CUTLETS a la Maintenon (an Entree).
868. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 lbs. of veal cutlets, egg and bread crumbs, 2
tablespoonfuls of minced savoury herbs, salt and pepper to taste, a
little grated nutmeg.
_Mode_.--Cut the cutlets about 3/4 inch in thickness, flatten them, and
brush them over with the yolk of an egg; dip them into bread crumbs and
minced herbs, season with pepper and salt and grated nutmeg, and fold
each cutlet in a piece of buttered paper. Broil them, and send them to
table with melted butter or a good gravy.
_Time_.--From 15 to 18 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
VEAL A LA BOURGEOISE.
(_Excellent_.)
869. INGREDIENTS.--2 to 3 lbs. of the loin or neck of veal, 10 or 12
young carrots, a bunch of green onions, 2 slices of lean bacon, 2 blades
of pounded mace, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, a
few new potatoes, 1 pint of green peas.
_Mode_.--Cut the veal into cutlets, trim them, and put the trimmings
into a stewpan with a little butter; lay in the cutlets and fry them a
nice brown colour on both sides. Add the bacon, carrots, onions, spice,
herbs, and seasoning; pour in about a pint of boiling water, and stew
gently for 2 hours on a very slow fire. When done, skim off the fat,
take out the herbs, and flavour the gravy with a little tomato sauce and
ketchup. Have ready the peas and potatoes, boiled _separately_; put them
with the veal, and serve.
_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 2s. 9d.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from June to August with peas;--rather earlier when these
are omitted.
SCOTCH COLLOPS (Cold Meat Cookery).
870. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast veal, a little butter,
flour, 1/2 pint of water, 1 onion, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1
tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1/2 teaspoonful of finely-minced
lemon-peel, 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom
ketchup.
_Mode_.--Cut the veal the same thickness as for cutlets, rather larger
than a crown-piece; flour the meat well, and fry a light brown in
butter; dredge again with flour, and add 1/2 pint of water, pouring it
in by degrees; set it on the fire, and when it boils, add the onion and
mace, and let it simmer very gently about 3/4 hour; flavour the gravy
with lemon-juice, peel, wine, and ketchup, in the above proportion; give
one boil, and serve.
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