The Book of Household Management - Mrs. Isabella Beeton
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_Time_.--1 hour to make the gravy.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
THE CALF A SYMBOL OF DIVINE POWER.--A singular symbolical
ceremony existed among the Hebrews, in which the calf performed
a most important part. The calf being a type or symbol of Divine
power, or what was called the _Elohim_,--the Almighty
intelligence that brought them out of Egypt,--was looked upon
much in the same light by the Jews, as the cross subsequently
was by the Christians, a mystical emblem of the Divine passion
and goodness. Consequently, an oath taken on either the calf or
the cross was considered equally solemn and sacred by Jew or
Nazarene, and the breaking of it a soul-staining perjury on
themselves, and an insult and profanation directly offered to
the Almighty. To render the oath more impressive and solemn, it
was customary to slaughter a dedicated calf in the temple, when,
the priests having divided the carcase into a certain number of
parts, and with intervening spaces, arranged the severed limbs
on the marble pavement, the one, or all the party, if there were
many individuals, to be bound by the oath, repeating the words
of the compact, threaded their way in and out through the
different spaces, till they had taken the circuit of each
portion of the divided calf, when the ceremony was concluded. To
avert the anger of the Lord, when Jerusalem was threatened by
Nebuchadnezzar and his Babylonian host, the Jews had made a
solemn to God, ratified by the ceremony of the calf, if He
released them from their dreaded foe, to cancel the servitude of
their Hebrew brethren. After investing the city for some time,
and reducing the inhabitants to dreadful suffering and
privation, the Babylonians, hearing that Pharaoh, whom the Jews
had solicited for aid, was rapidly approaching with a powerful
army, hastily raised the siege, and, removing to a distance,
took up a position where they could intercept the Egyptians, and
still cover the city. No sooner did the Jews behold the retreat
of the enemy, than they believed all danger was past, and, with
their usual turpitude, they repudiated their oath, and refused
to liberate their oppressed countrymen. For this violation of
their covenant with the Lord, they were given over to all the
horrors of the sword, pestilence, and famine--Jeremiah, xxxiv.
15-17.
MINCED VEAL AND MACARONI.
(_A pretty side or corner dish_.)
891. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of minced cold roast veal, 3 oz. of ham, 1
tablespoonful of gravy, pepper and salt to taste, 3 teaspoonful of
grated nutmeg, 1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 1/4 lb. of macaroni, 1 or 2 eggs
to bind, a small piece of butter.
_Mode_.--Cut some nice slices from a cold fillet of veal, trim off the
brown outside, and mince the meat finely with the above proportion of
ham: should the meat be very dry, add a spoonful of good gravy. Season
highly with pepper and salt, add the grated nutmeg and bread crumbs, and
mix these ingredients with 1 or 2 eggs well beaten, which should bind
the mixture and make it like forcemeat. In the mean time, boil the
macaroni in salt and water, and drain it; butter a mould, put some of
the macaroni at the bottom and sides of it, in whatever form is liked;
mix the remainder with the forcemeat, fill the mould up to the top, put
a plate or small dish on it, and steam for 1/2 hour. Turn it out
carefully, and serve with good gravy poured round, but not over, the
meat.
_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 10d.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
_Note_.--To make a variety, boil some carrots and turnips separately in
a little salt and water; when done, cut them into pieces about 1/8 inch
in thickness; butter an oval mould, and place these in it, in white and
red stripes alternately, at the bottom and sides. Proceed as in the
foregoing recipe, and be very careful in turning it out of the mould.
MOULDED MINCED VEAL (Cold Meat Cookery).
892. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of cold roast veal, a small slice of bacon,
1/4 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 1/2 onion chopped fine, salt,
pepper, and pounded mace to taste, a slice of toast soaked in milk, 1
egg.
_Mode_.--Mince the meat very fine, after removing from it all skin and
outside pieces, and chop the bacon; mix these well together, adding the
lemon-peel, onion, seasoning, mace, and toast. When all the ingredients
are thoroughly incorporated, heat up an egg, with which bind the
mixture. Butter a shape, put in the meat, and hake for 3/4 hour; turn it
out of the mould carefully, and pour round it a good brown gravy. A
sheep's head dressed in this manner is an economical and savoury dish.
_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
BRAISED NECK OF VEAL.
893. INGREDIENTS.--The best end of the neck of veal (from 3 to 4 lbs.),
bacon, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, salt, pepper, and grated
nutmeg to taste; 1 onion, 2 carrots, a little celery (when this is not
obtainable, use the seed), 1/2 glass of sherry, thickening of butter and
flour, lemon-juice, 1 blade of pounded mace.
_Mode_.--Prepare the bacon for larding, and roll it in minced parsley,
salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg; lard the veal, put it into a stewpan
with a few slices of lean bacon or ham, an onion, carrots, and celery;
and do not quite cover it with water. Stew it gently for 2 hours, or
until it is quite tender; strain off the liquor; stir together over the
fire, in a stewpan, a little flour and butter until brown; lay the veal
in this, the upper side to the bottom of the pan, and let it remain till
of a nice brown colour. Place it in the dish; pour into the stewpan as
much gravy as is required, boil it up, skim well, add the wine, pounded
mace, and lemon-juice; simmer for 3 minutes, pour it over the meat, and
serve.
_Time_.--Rather more than 2 hours.
_Average cost_, 8d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
BIRTH OF CALVES.--The cow seldom produces more than a single
calf; sometimes, twins, and, very rarely, three. A French
newspaper, however,--the "Nouveau Bulletin des Sciences,"--gave
a trustworthy but extraordinary account of a cow which produced
nine calves in all, at three successive births, in three
successive years. The first year, four cow calves; the second
year, three calves, two of them females; the third year, two
calves, both females. With the exception of two belonging to the
first birth, all were suckled by the mother.
ROAST NECK OF VEAL.
894. INGREDIENTS.--Veal, melted butter, forcemeat balls.
_Mode_.--Have the veal cut from the best end of the neck; dredge it with
flour, and put it down to a bright clear fire; keep it well basted; dish
it, pour over it some melted butter, and garnish the dish with fried
forcemeat balls; send to table with a cut lemon. The scrag may be boiled
or stewed in various ways, with rice, onion-sauce, or parsley and
butter.
_Time_.--About 2 hours. _Average cost_, 8d. per lb.
_Sufficient_.--4 or 5 lbs. for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
VEAL OLIVE PIE (Cold Meat Cookery).
895. INGREDIENTS.--A few thin slices of cold fillet of veal, a few thin
slices of bacon, forcemeat No. 417, a cupful of gravy, 4 tablespoonfuls
of cream, puff-crust.
_Mode_.--Cut thin slices from a fillet of veal, place on them thin
slices of bacon, and over them a layer of forcemeat, made by recipe No.
417, with an additional seasoning of shalot and cayenne; roll them
tightly, and fill up a pie-dish with them; add the gravy and cream,
cover with a puff-crust, and bake for 1 to 1-1/2 hour: should the pie be
very large, allow 2 hours. The pieces of rolled veal should be about 3
inches in length, and about 3 inches round.
_Time_.--Moderate-sized pie, 1 to 1-1/2 hour.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
FRIED PATTIES (Cold Meat Cookery).
896. INGREDIENTS.--Cold roast veal, a few slices of cold ham, 1 egg
boiled hard, pounded mace, pepper and salt to taste, gravy, cream, 1
teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, good puff-paste.
_Mode_.--Mince a little cold veal and ham, allowing one-third ham to
two-thirds veal; add an egg boiled hard and chopped, and a seasoning of
pounded mace, salt, pepper, and lemon-peel; moisten with a little gravy
and cream. Make a good puff-paste; roll rather thin, and cut it into
round or square pieces; put the mince between two of them, pinch the
edges to keep in the gravy, and fry a light brown. They may be also
baked in patty-pans: in that case, they should be brushed over with the
yolk of an egg before they are put in the oven. To make a variety,
oysters may be substituted for the ham.
_Time_.--15 minutes to fry the patties.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
VEAL PIE.
897. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of veal cutlets, 1 or 2 slices of lean bacon
or ham, pepper and salt to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced savoury
herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, crust, 1 teacupful of gravy.
_Mode_.--Cut the cutlets into square pieces, and season them with
pepper, salt, and pounded mace; put them in a pie-dish with the savoury
herbs sprinkled over, and 1 or 2 slices of lean bacon or ham placed at
the top: if possible, this should be previously cooked, as undressed
bacon makes the veal red, and spoils its appearance. Pour in a little
water, cover with crust, ornament it in any way that is approved; brush
it over with the yolk of an egg, and bake in a well-heated oven for
about 1-1/2 hour. Pour in a good gravy after baking, which is done by
removing the top ornament, and replacing it after the gravy is added.
_Time_.--About 1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
A VERY VEAL DINNER.--At a dinner given by Lord Polkemmet, a
Scotch nobleman and judge, his guests saw, when the covers were
removed, that the fare consisted of veal broth, a roasted fillet
of veal, veal cutlets, a veal pie, a calf's head, and
calf's-foot jelly. The judge, observing the surprise of his
guests, volunteered an explanation.--"Oh, ay, it's a' cauf;
when we kill a beast, we just eat up ae side, and doun the
tither."
VEAL AND HAM PIE.
898. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of veal cutlets, 1/2 lb. of boiled ham, 2
tablespoonfuls of minced savoury herbs, 1/4 teaspoonful of grated
nutmeg, 2 blades of pounded mace, pepper and salt to taste, a strip of
lemon-peel finely minced, the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, 1/2 pint of
water, nearly 1/2 pint of good strong gravy, puff-crust.
_Mode_.--Cut the veal into nice square pieces, and put a layer of them
at the bottom of a pie-dish; sprinkle over these a portion of the herbs,
spices, seasoning, lemon-peel, and the yolks of the eggs cut in slices;
cut the ham very thin, and put a layer of this in. Proceed in this
manner until the dish is full, so arranging it that the ham comes at the
top. Lay a puff-paste on the edge of the dish, and pour in about 1/2
pint of water; cover with crust, ornament it with leaves, brush it over
with the yolk of an egg, and bake in a well-heated oven for 1 to 1-1/2
hour, or longer, should the pie be very large. When it is taken out of
the oven, pour in at the top, through a funnel, nearly 1/2 pint of
strong gravy: this should be made sufficiently good that, when cold, it
may cut in a firm jelly. This pie may be very much enriched by adding a
few mushrooms, oysters, or sweetbreads; but it will be found very good
without any of the last-named additions.
_Time_.--1-1/2 hour, or longer, should the pie be very large. _Average
cost_, 3s. _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ from March to
October.
POTTED VEAL (for Breakfast).
899. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of veal allow 1/4 lb. of ham, cayenne
and pounded mace to taste, 6 oz. of fresh butter; clarified butter.
_Mode_.--Mince the veal and ham together as finely as possible, and
pound well in a mortar, with cayenne, pounded mace, and fresh butter in
the above proportion. When reduced to a perfectly smooth paste, press it
into potting-pots, and cover with clarified butter. If kept in a cool
place, it will remain good some days.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
NAMES OF CALVES, &c.--During the time the young male calf is
suckled by his mother, he is called a bull-or ox-calf; when
turned a year old, he is called a stirk, stot, or yearling; on
the completion of his second year, he is called a two-year-old
bull or steer (and in some counties a twinter); then, a
three-year-old steer; and at four, an ox or a bullock, which
latter names are retained till death. It may be here remarked,
that the term ox is used as a general or common appellation for
neat cattle, in a specific sense, and irrespective of sex; as
the British ox, the Indian ox. The female is termed cow, but
while sucking the mother, a cow-calf; at the age of a year, she
is called a yearling quey; in another year, a heifer, or
twinter; then, a three-year-old quey or twinter; and, at four
years old, a cow. Other names, to be regarded as provincialisms,
may exist in different districts.
RAGOUT OF COLD VEAL (Cold Meat Cookery).
900. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold veal, 1 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint
of gravy, thickening of butter and flour, pepper and salt to taste, 1
blade of pounded mace, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, 1
tablespoonful of sherry, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, forcemeat
balls.
_Mode_.--Any part of veal will make this dish. Cut the meat into
nice-looking pieces, put them in a stewpan with 1 oz. of butter, and fry
a light brown; add the gravy (hot water may be substituted for this),
thicken with a little butter and flour, and stew gently about 1/4 hour;
season with pepper, salt, and pounded mace; add the ketchup, sherry, and
lemon-juice; give one boil, and serve. Garnish the dish with forcemeat
balls and fried rashers of bacon.
_Time_.--Altogether 1/2 hour.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
_Note_.--The above recipe may be varied, by adding vegetables, such as
peas, cucumbers, lettuces, green onions cut in slices, a dozen or two of
green gooseberries (not seedy), all of which should be fried a little
with the meat, and then stewed in the gravy.
VEAL RISSOLES (Cold Meat Cookery).
901. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of cold roast veal, a few slices of ham
or bacon, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 1 tablespoonful of minced
savoury herbs, 1 blade of pounded mace, a very little grated nutmeg,
cayenne and salt to taste, 2 eggs well beaten, bread crumbs.
_Mode_.--Mince the veal very finely with a little ham or bacon; add the
parsley, herbs, spices, and seasoning; mix into a paste with an egg;
form into balls or cones; brush these over with egg, sprinkle with bread
crumbs, and fry a rich brown. Serve with brown gravy, and garnish the
dish with fried parsley.
_Time_.--About 10 minutes to fry the rissoles.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
VEAL ROLLS (Cold Meat Cookery).
902. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of a cold fillet of veal, egg and bread
crumbs, a few slices of fat bacon, forcemeat No. 417.
_Mode_.--Cut a few slices from a cold fillet of veal 1/2 inch thick; rub
them over with egg; lay a thin slice of fat bacon over each piece of
veal; brush these with the egg, and over this spread the forcemeat
thinly; roll up each piece tightly, egg and bread crumb them, and fry
them a rich brown. Serve with mushroom sauce or brown gravy.
_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes to fry the rolls.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
SHOULDER OF VEAL, Stuffed and Stewed.
903. INGREDIENTS.--A shoulder of veal, a few slices of ham or bacon,
forcemeat No. 417, 3 carrots, 2 onions, salt and pepper to taste, a
faggot of savoury herbs, 3 blades of pounded mace, water, thickening of
butter and flour.
_Mode_.--Bone the joint by carefully detaching the meat from the
blade-bone on one side, and then on the other, being particular not to
pierce the skin; then cut the bone from the knuckle, and take it out.
Fill the cavity whence the bone was taken with a forcemeat made by
recipe No. 417. Roll and bind the veal up tightly; put it into a
stew-pan with the carrots, onions, seasoning, herbs, and mace; pour in
just sufficient water to cover it, and let it stew _very gently_ for
about 5 hours. Before taking it up, try if it is properly done by
thrusting a larding-needle in it: if it penetrates easily, it is
sufficiently cooked. Strain and skim the gravy, thicken with butter and
flour, give one boil, and pour it round the meat. A few young carrots
may be boiled and placed round the dish as a garnish, and, when in
season, green peas should always be served with this dish.
_Time_.--5 hours. _Average cost_, 7d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 8 or 9 persons. _Seasonable_ from March to October.
THE FATTENING OF CALVES.--The fattening of calves for the market
is an important business in Lanarkshire or Clydesdale, and
numbers of newly-dropped calves are regularly carried there from
the farmers of the adjacent districts, in order to be prepared
for the butcher. The mode of feeding them is very simple; milk
is the chief article of their diet, and of this the calves
require a sufficient supply from first to last. Added to this,
they must be kept in a well-aired place, neither too hot nor too
cold, and freely supplied with dry litter. It is usual to
exclude the light,--at all events to a great degree, and to put
within their reach a lump of chalk, which they are very fond of
licking. Thus fed, calves, at the end of 8 or 9 weeks, often
attain a very large size; viz., 18 to 20 stone, exclusive of the
offal. Far heavier weights have occurred, and without any
deterioration in the delicacy and richness of the flesh. This
mode of feeding upon milk alone at first appears to be very
expensive, but it is not so, when all things are taken into
consideration; for at the age of 9 or 10 weeks a calf,
originally purchased for 8 shillings, will realize nearly the
same number of pounds. For 4, or even 6 weeks, the milk of one
cow is sufficient,--indeed half that quantity is enough for the
first fortnight; but after the 5th or 6th week it will consume
the greater portion of the milk of two moderate cows; but then
it requires neither oil-cake nor linseed, nor any other food.
Usually, however, the calves are not kept beyond the age of 6
weeks, and will then sell for 5 or 6 pounds each: the milk of
the cow is then ready for a successor. In this manner a relay of
calves may be prepared for the markets from early spring to the
end of summer, a plan more advantageous than that of overfeeding
one to a useless degree of corpulency.
VEAL SAUSAGES.
904. INGREDIENTS.--Equal quantities of fat bacon and lean veal; to every
lb. of meat, allow 1 teaspoonful of minced sage, salt and pepper to
taste.
_Mode_.--Chop the meat and bacon finely, and to every lb. allow the
above proportion of very finely-minced sage; add a seasoning of pepper
and salt, mix the whole well together, make it into flat cakes, and fry
a nice brown.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
STEWED VEAL, with Peas, young Carrots, and new Potatoes.
905. INGREDIENTS.--3 or 4 lbs. of the loin or neck of veal, 15 young
carrots, a few green onions, 1 pint of green peas, 12 new potatoes, a
bunch of savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 1 tablespoonful of
lemon-juice, 2 tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls of
mushroom ketchup.
_Mode_.--Dredge the meat with flour, and roast or bake it for about 3/4
hour: it should acquire a nice brown colour. Put the meat into a stewpan
with the carrots, onions, potatoes, herbs, pepper, and salt; pour over
it sufficient boiling water to cover it, and stew gently for 2 hours.
Take out the meat and herbs, put it in a deep dish, skim off all the fat
from the gravy, and flavour it with lemon-juice, tomato sauce, and
mushroom ketchup in the above proportion. Have ready a pint of green
peas boiled; put these with the meat, pour over it the gravy, and
serve. The dish may be garnished with a few forcemeat balls. The meat,
when preferred, may be cut into chops, and floured and fried instead of
being roasted; and any part of veal dressed in this way will be found
extremely savoury and good.
_Time_.--3 hours. _Average cost_, 9d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.
_Seasonable_, with peas, from June to August.
BAKED SWEETBREADS (an Entree).
906. INGREDIENTS.--3 sweetbreads, egg and bread crumbs, oiled butter, 3
slices of toast, brown gravy.
[Illustration: SWEETBREADS.]
_Mode_.--Choose large white sweetbreads; put them into warm water to
draw out the blood, and to improve their colour; let them remain for
rather more than 1 hour; then put them into boiling water, and allow
them to simmer for about 10 minutes, which renders them firm. Take them
up, drain them, brush over with egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs; dip
them in egg again, and then into more bread crumbs. Drop on them a
little oiled butter, and put the sweetbreads into a moderately-heated
oven, and let them bake for nearly 3/4 hour. Make 3 pieces of toast;
place the sweetbreads on the toast, and pour round, but not over them, a
good brown gravy.
_Time_.--To soak 1 hour, to be boiled 10 minutes, baked 40 minutes.
_Average cost_, 1s. to 5s. _Sufficient_ for an entree.
_Seasonable_.--In full season from May to August.
FRIED SWEETBREADS a la Maitre d'Hotel (an Entree).
907. INGREDIENTS.--3 sweetbreads, egg and bread crumbs, 1/4 lb. of
butter, salt and pepper to taste, rather more than 1/2 pint of Maitre
d'hotel sauce No. 466.
_Mode_.--Soak the sweetbreads in warm water for an hour; then boil them
for 10 minutes; cut them in slices, egg and bread crumb them, season
with pepper and salt, and put them into a frying-pan, with the above
proportion of butter. Keep turning them until done, which will be in
about 10 minutes; dish them, and pour over them a Maitre d'hotel sauce,
made by recipe No. 466. The dish may be garnished with slices of cut
lemon.
_Time_.--To soak 1 hour, to be broiled 10 minutes, to be fried about 10
minutes.
_Average cost_, 1s. to 5s., according to the season.
_Sufficient_ for an entree.
_Seasonable_.--In full season from May to August.
_Note_.--The egg and bread crumb may be omitted, and the slices of
sweetbread dredged with a little flour instead, and a good gravy may be
substituted for the _maitre d'hotel_ sauce. This is a very simple method
of dressing them.
STEWED SWEETBREADS (an Entree).
908. INGREDIENTS.--3 sweetbreads, 1 pint of white stock No. 107,
thickening of butter and flour, 6 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1
tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 blade of pounded mace, white pepper and
salt to taste.
_Mode_.--Soak the sweetbreads in warm water for 1 hour, and boil them
for 10 minutes; take them out, put them into cold water for a few
minutes; lay them in a stewpan with the stock, and simmer them gently
for rather more than 1/2 hour. Dish them; thicken the gravy with a
little butter and flour; let it boil up, add the remaining ingredients,
allow the sauce to get quite _hot_, but _not boil_, and pour it over the
sweetbreads.
_Time_.--To soak 1 hour, to be boiled 10 minutes, stewed rather more
than 1/2 hour.
_Average cost_, from 1s. to 5s., according to the season.
_Sufficient_ for an entree.
_Seasonable_.--In full season from May to August.
_Note_.--A few mushrooms added to this dish, and stewed with the
sweetbreads, will be found an improvement.
SEASON AND CHOICE OF VEAL.--Veal, like all other meats, has its
season of plenty. The best veal, and the largest supply, are to
be had from March to the end of July. It comes principally from
the western counties, and is generally of the Alderney breed. In
purchasing veal, its whiteness and fineness of grain should be
considered, the colour being especially of the utmost
consequence. Veal may be bought at all times of the year and of
excellent quality, but is generally very dear, except in the
months of plenty.
STEWED TENDRONS DE VEAU (an Entree).
909. INGREDIENTS.--The gristles from 2 breasts of veal, stock No. 107, 1
faggot of savoury herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, 4 cloves, 2 carrots,
2 onions, a strip of lemon-peel.
_Mode_.--The _tendrons_ or gristles, which are found round the front of
a breast of veal, are now very frequently served as an entree, and when
well dressed, make a nice and favourite dish. Detach the gristles from
the bone, and cut them neatly out, so as not to spoil the joint for
roasting or stewing. Put them into a stewpan, with sufficient stock, No.
107, to cover them; add the herbs, mace, cloves, carrots, onions, and
lemon, and simmer these for nearly, or quite, 4 hours. They should be
stewed until a fork will enter the meat easily. Take them up, drain
them, strain the gravy, boil it down to a glaze, with which glaze the
meat. Dish the _tendrons_ in a circle, with croutons fried of a nice
colour placed between each; and put mushroom sauce, or a puree of green
peas or tomatoes, in the middle.
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