The Book of Household Management - Mrs. Isabella Beeton
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_Time_.--4 hours. _Sufficient_ for one entree.
_Seasonable_.--With peas, from June to August.
COW-POX, OR VARIOLA.--It is to Dr. Jenner, of Berkeley,
Gloucestershire, who died in 1823, that we owe the practice of
vaccination, as a preservative from the attack of that
destructive scourge of the human race, the small-pox. The
experiments of this philosophic man were begun in 1797, and
published the next year. He had observed that cows were subject
to a certain infectious eruption of the teats, and that those
persons who became affected by it, while milking the cattle,
escaped the small-pox raging around them. This fact, known to
farmers from time immemorial, led him to a course of
experiments, the result of which all are acquainted with.
TENDRONS DE VEAU (an Entree).
910. INGREDIENTS.--The gristles from 2 breasts of veal, stock No. 107, 1
faggot of savoury herbs, 1 blade of pounded mace, 4 cloves, 2 carrots, 2
onions, a strip of lemon-peel, egg and bread crumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls of
chopped mushrooms, salt and pepper to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry,
the yolk of 1 egg, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream.
_Mode_.--After removing the gristles from a breast of veal, stew them
for 4 hours, as in the preceding recipe, with stock, herbs, mace,
cloves, carrots, onions, and lemon-peel. When perfectly tender, lift
them out and remove any bones or hard parts remaining. Put them between
two dishes, with a weight on the top, and when cold, cut them into
slices. Brush these over with egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs, and fry a
pale brown. Take 1/2 pint of the gravy they were boiled in, add 2
tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, a seasoning of salt and pepper, the
sherry, and the yolk of an egg beaten with 3 tablespoonfuls of cream.
Stir the sauce over the fire until it thickens; when it is on the _point
of boiling_, dish the tendrons in a circle, and pour the sauce in the
middle. Tendrons are dressed in a variety of ways,--with sauce a
l'Espagnole, vegetables of all kinds: when they are served with a puree,
they should always be glazed.
_Time_.--4-1/2 hours. _Average cost_.--Usually bought with breast of
veal.
_Sufficient_ for an entree.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
TETE DE VEAU EN TORTUE (an Entree).
911. INGREDIENTS.--Half a calf's head, or the remains of a cold boiled
one; rather more than 1 pint of good white stock, No. 107, 1 glass of
sherry or Madeira, cayenne and salt to taste, about 12 mushroom-buttons
(when obtainable), 6 hard-boiled eggs, 4 gherkins, 8 quenelles or
forcemeat balls, No. 422 or 423, 12 crayfish, 12 croutons.
_Mode_.--Half a calf's head is sufficient to make a good entree, and if
there are any remains of a cold one left from the preceding day, it will
answer very well for this dish. After boiling the head until tender,
remove the bones, and cut the meat into neat pieces; put the stock into
a stewpan, add the wine, and a seasoning of salt and cayenne; fry the
mushrooms in butter for 2 or 3 minutes, and add these to the gravy. Boil
this quickly until somewhat reduced; then put in the yolks of the
hard-boiled eggs _whole_, the whites cut in small pieces, and the
gherkins chopped. Have ready a few veal quenelles, made by recipe No.
422 or 423; add these, with the slices of head, to the other
ingredients, and let the whole get thoroughly hot, _without boiling_.
Arrange the pieces of head as high in the centre of the dish as
possible; pour over them the ragout, and garnish with the crayfish and
croutons placed alternately. A little of the gravy should also be served
in a tureen.
_Time_.--About 1/2 hour to reduce the stock.
_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the calf's head, 2s. 9d.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
A FRENCHMAN'S OPINION OF VEAL.--A great authority in his native
Paris tells us, that veal, as a meat, is but little nourishing,
is relaxing, and sufficiently difficult of digestion. Lending
itself, as it does, he says, in all the flowery imagery of the
French tongue and manner, "to so many metamorphoses, it may be
called, without exaggeration, the chameleon of the kitchen. Who
has not eaten calf's head _au naturel_, simply boiled with the
skin on, its flavour heightened by sauce just a little sharp? It
is a dish as wholesome as it is agreeable, and one that the most
inexperienced cook may serve with success. Calf's feet _a la
poulette_, _au gratin_, fried, &c.; _les cervelles_, served in
the same manner, and under the same names; sweetbreads _en
fricandeau_, _piques en fin_,--all these offer most satisfactory
entrees, which the art of the cook, more or less, varies for the
gratification of his glory and the well-being of our appetites.
We have not spoken, in the above catalogue, either of the liver,
or of the _fraise_, or of the ears, which also share the honour
of appearing at our tables. Where is the man not acquainted with
calf's liver _a la bourgeoise_, the most frequent and convenient
dish at unpretentious tables? The _fraise_, cooked in water, and
eaten with vinegar, is a wholesome and agreeable dish, and
contains a mucilage well adapted for delicate persons. Calf's
ears have, in common with the feet and _cervelles_, the
advantage of being able to be eaten either fried or _a la
poulette_; and besides, can be made into a _farce_, with the
addition of peas, onions, cheese, &c. Neither is it confined to
the calf's tongue, or even the eyes, that these shall dispute
alone the glory of awakening the taste of man; thus, the
_fressure_ (which, as is known, comprises the heart, the _mou_,
and the _rate_), although not a very recherche dish, lends
itself to all the caprices of an expert artist, and may, under
various marvellous disguises, deceive, and please, and even
awaken our appetite."--Verily, we might say, after this rhapsody
of our neighbour, that his country's weal will not suffer in him
as an able and eloquent exponent and admirer.
VEAL CARVING.
BREAST OF VEAL.
[Illustration: BREAST OF VEAL.]
912. The carving of a breast of veal is not dissimilar to that of a
fore-quarter of lamb, when the shoulder has been taken off. The breast
of veal consists of two parts,--the rib-bones and the gristly brisket.
These two parts should first be separated by sharply passing the knife
in the direction of the lines 1, 2; when they are entirely divided, the
rib-bones should be carved in the direction of the lines 5 to 6; and the
brisket can be helped by cutting pieces in the direction 3 to 4. The
carver should ask the guests whether they have a preference for the
brisket or ribs; and if there be a sweetbread served with the dish, as
it often is with roast breast of veal, each person should receive a
piece.
CALF'S HEAD.
[Illustration: CALF'S HEAD.]
913. This is not altogether the most easy-looking dish to cut when it is
put before a carver for the first time; there is not much real
difficulty in the operation, however, when the head has been attentively
examined, and, after the manner of a phrenologist, you get to know its
bumps, good and bad. In the first place, inserting the knife quite down
to the bone, cut slices in the direction of the line 1 to 2; with each
of these should be helped a piece of what is called the throat
sweetbread, cut in the direction of from 3 to 4. The eye, and the flesh
round, are favourite morsels with many, and should be given to those at
the table who are known to be the greatest connoisseurs. The jawbone
being removed, there will then be found some nice lean; and the palate,
which is reckoned by some a tit-bit, lies under the head. On a separate
dish there is always served the tongue and brains, and each guest should
be asked to take some of these.
FILLET OF VEAL.
[Illustration: FILLET OF VEAL.]
914. The carving of this joint is similar to that of a round of beef.
Slices, not too thick, in the direction of the line 1 to 2 are cut; and
the only point to be careful about is, that the veal be _evenly_ carved.
Between the flap and the meat the stuffing is inserted, and a small
portion of this should be served to every guest. The persons whom the
host wishes most to honour should be asked if they like the delicious
brown outside slice, as this, by many, is exceedingly relished.
KNUCKLE OF VEAL.
[Illustration: KNUCKLE OF VEAL.]
915. The engraving, showing the dotted line from 1 to 2, sufficiently
indicates the direction which should be given to the knife in carving
this dish. The best slices are those from the thickest part of the
knuckle, that is, outside the line 1 to 2.
LOIN OF VEAL.
[Illustration: LOIN OF VEAL.]
916. As is the case with a loin of mutton, the careful jointing of a
loin of veal is more than half the battle in carving it. If the butcher
be negligent in this matter, he should be admonished; for there is
nothing more annoying or irritating to an inexperienced carver than to
be obliged to turn his knife in all directions to find the exact place
where it should be inserted in order to divide the bones. When the
jointing is properly performed, there is little difficulty in carrying
the knife down in the direction of the line 1 to 2. To each guest should
be given a piece of the kidney and kidney fat, which lie underneath, and
are considered great delicacies.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
CHAPTER XX.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BIRDS.
"Birds, the free tenants of land, air, and ocean,
Their forms all symmetry, their motions grace;
In plumage delicate and beautiful;
Thick without burthen, close as fishes' scales,
Or loose as full-blown poppies to the breeze."
_The Pelican Island_.
917. THE DIVISIONS OF BIRDS are founded principally on their habits of
life, and the natural resemblance which their external parts, especially
their bills, bear to each other. According to Mr. Vigors, there are five
orders, each of which occupies its peculiar place on the surface of the
globe; so that the air, the forest, the land, the marsh, and the water,
has each its appropriate kind of inhabitants. These are respectively
designated as BIRDS OF PREY, PERCHERS, WALKERS, WADERS, and SWIMMERS;
and, in contemplating their variety, lightness, beauty, and wonderful
adaptation to the regions they severally inhabit, and the functions they
are destined to perform in the grand scheme of creation, our hearts are
lifted with admiration at the exhaustless ingenuity, power, and wisdom
of HIM who has, in producing them, so strikingly "manifested His
handiwork." Not only these, however, but all classes of animals, have
their peculiar ends to fulfil; and, in order that this may be
effectually performed, they are constructed in such a manner as will
enable them to carry out their conditions. Thus the quadrupeds, that are
formed to tread the earth in common with man, are muscular and vigorous;
and, whether they have passed into the servitude of man, or are
permitted to range the forest or the field, they still retain, in a high
degree, the energies with which they were originally endowed. Birds, on
the contrary, are generally feeble, and, therefore, timid. Accordingly,
wings have been given them to enable them to fly through the air, and
thus elude the force which, by nature, they are unable to resist.
Notwithstanding the natural tendency of all bodies towards the centre of
the earth, birds, when raised in the atmosphere, glide through it with
the greatest ease, rapidity, and vigour. There, they are in their
natural element, and can vary their course with the greatest
promptitude--can mount or descend with the utmost facility, and can
light on any spot with the most perfect exactness, and without the
slightest injury to themselves.
918. THE MECHANISM WHICH ENABLES BIRDS to wing their course through the
air, is both singular and instructive. Their bodies are covered with
feathers, which are much lighter than coverings of hair, with which
quadrupeds are usually clothed. The feathers are so placed as to overlap
each other, like the slates or the tiles on the roof of a house. They
are also arranged from the fore-part backwards; by which the animals are
enabled the more conveniently to cut their way through the air. Their
bones are tubular or hollow, and extremely light compared with those of
terrestrial animals. This greatly facilitates their rising from the
earth, whilst their heads, being comparatively small, their bills shaped
like a wedge, their bodies slender, sharp below, and round above,--all
these present a union of conditions, favourable, in the last degree, to
cutting their way through the aerial element to which they are
considered as more peculiarly to belong. With all these conditions,
however, birds could not fly without wings. These, therefore, are the
instruments by which they have the power of rapid locomotion, and are
constructed in such a manner as to be capable of great expansion when
struck in a downward direction. If we except, in this action, the slight
hollow which takes place on the under-side, they become almost two
planes. In order that the downward action may be accomplished to the
necessary extent, the muscles which move the wings have been made
exceedingly large; so large, indeed, that, in some instances, they have
been estimated at not less than a sixth of the weight of the whole body.
Therefore, when a bird is on the ground and intends to fly, it takes a
leap, and immediately stretching its wings, strikes them out with great
force. By this act these are brought into an oblique direction, being
turned partly upwards and partly horizontally forwards. That part of the
force which has the upward tendency is neutralized by the weight of the
bird, whilst the horizontal force serves to carry it forward. The stroke
being completed, it moves upon its wings, which, being contracted and
having their edges turned upwards, obviate, in a great measure, the
resistance of the air. When it is sufficiently elevated, it makes a
second stroke downwards, and the impulse of the air again moves it
forward. These successive strokes may be regarded as so many leaps taken
in the air. When the bird desires to direct its course to the right or
the left, it strikes strongly with the opposite wing, which impels it to
the proper side. In the motions of the animal, too, the tail takes a
prominent part, and acts like the rudder of a ship, except that, instead
of sideways, it moves upwards and downwards. If the bird wishes to rise,
it raises its tail; and if to fall, it depresses it; and, whilst in a
horizontal position, it keeps it steady. There are few who have not
observed a pigeon or a crow preserve, for some time, a horizontal flight
without any apparent motion of the wings. This is accomplished by the
bird having already acquired sufficient velocity, and its wings being
parallel to the horizon, meeting with but small resistance from the
atmosphere. If it begins to fall, it can easily steer itself upward by
means of its tail, till the motion it had acquired is nearly spent, when
it must be renewed by a few more strokes of the wings. On alighting, a
bird expands its wings and tail fully against the air, as a ship, in
tacking round, backs her sails, in order that they may meet with all the
resistance possible.
919. IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE EYES of birds, there is a peculiarity
necessary to their condition. As they pass a great portion of their
lives among thickets and hedges, they are provided for the defence of
their eyes from external injuries, as well as from the effects of the
light, when flying in opposition to the rays of the sun, with a
nictating or winking membrane, which can, at pleasure, be drawn over the
whole eye like a curtain. This covering is neither opaque nor wholly
pellucid, but is somewhat transparent; and it is by its means that the
eagle is said to be able to gaze at the sun. "In birds," says a writer
on this subject, "we find that the sight is much more piercing,
extensive, and exact, than in the other orders of animals. The eye is
much larger in proportion to the bulk of the head, than in any of these.
This is a superiority conferred upon them not without a corresponding
utility: it seems even indispensable to their safety and subsistence.
Were this organ in birds dull, or in the least degree opaque, they would
be in danger, from the rapidity of their motion, of striking against
various objects in their flight. In this case their celerity, instead of
being an advantage, would become an evil, and their flight be restrained
by the danger resulting from it. Indeed we may consider the velocity
with which an animal moves, as a sure indication of the perfection of
its vision. Among the quadrupeds, the sloth has its sight greatly
limited; whilst the hawk, as it hovers in the air, can espy a lark
sitting on a clod, perhaps at twenty times the distance at which a man
or a dog could perceive it."
920. AMONGST THE MANY PECULIARITIES IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF BIRDS, not
the least is the mode by which their respiration is accomplished. This
is effected by means of air-vessels, which extend throughout the body,
and adhere to the under-surface of the bones. These, by their motion,
force the air through the true lungs, which are very small, and placed
in the uppermost part of the chest, and closely braced down to the back
and ribs. The lungs, which are never expanded by air, are destined to
the sole purpose of oxidizing the blood. In the experiments made by Mr.
John Hunter, to discover the use of this general diffusion of air
through the bodies of birds, he found that it prevents their respiration
from being stopped or interrupted by the rapidity of their motion
through a resisting medium. It is well known that, in proportion to
celerity of motion, the air becomes resistive; and were it possible for
a man to move with the swiftness of a swallow, as he is not provided
with an internal construction similar to that of birds, the resistance
of the air would soon suffocate him.
921. BIRDS ARE DISTRIBUTED OVER EVERY PART OF THE GLOBE, being found in
the coldest as well as the hottest regions, although some species are
restricted to particular countries, whilst others are widely dispersed.
At certain seasons of the year, many of them change their abodes, and
migrate to climates better adapted to their temperaments or modes of
life, for a time, than those which they leave. Many of the birds of
Britain, directed by an unerring instinct, take their departure from the
island before the commencement of winter, and proceed to the more
congenial warmth of Africa, to return with the next spring. The causes
assigned by naturalists for this peculiarity are, either a deficiency of
food, or the want of a secure asylum for the incubation and nourishment
of their young. Their migrations are generally performed in large
companies, and, in the day, they follow a leader, which is occasionally
changed. During the night, many of the tribes send forth a continual
cry, to keep themselves together; although one would think that the
noise which must accompany their flight would be sufficient for that
purpose. The flight of birds across the Mediterranean was noticed three
thousand years ago, as we find it said in the book of Numbers, in the
Scriptures, that "There went forth a wind from the Lord, and brought
quails from the sea, and let them fall upon the camp, and a day's
journey round about it, to the height of two cubits above the earth."
922. IF THE BEAUTY OF BIRDS were not a recommendation to their being
universally admired, their general liveliness, gaiety, and song would
endear them to mankind. It appears, however, from accurate observations
founded upon experiment, that the notes peculiar to different kinds of
birds are altogether acquired, and that they are not innate, any more
than language is to man. The attempt of a nestling bird to sing has been
compared to the endeavour of a child to talk. The first attempts do not
seem to possess the slightest rudiments of the future song; but, as the
bird grows older and becomes stronger, it is easily perceived to be
aiming at acquiring the art of giving utterance to song. Whilst the
scholar is thus endeavouring to form his notes, when he is once sure of
a passage, he usually raises his tone, but drops it again when he finds
himself unequal to the voluntary task he has undertaken. "Many
well-authenticated facts," says an ingenious writer, "seem decisively to
prove that birds have no innate notes, but that, like mankind, the
language of those to whose care they have been committed at their birth,
will be their language in after-life." It would appear, however,
somewhat unaccountable why, in a wild state, they adhere so steadily to
the song of their own species only, when the notes of so many others are
to be heard around them. This is said to arise from the attention paid
by the nestling bird to the instructions of its own parent only,
generally disregarding the notes of all the rest. Persons; however, who
have an accurate ear, and who have given their attention to the songs of
birds, can frequently distinguish some which have their notes mixed with
those of another species; but this is in general so trifling, that it
can hardly be considered as more than the mere varieties of provincial
dialects.
923. IN REFERENCE TO THE FOOD OF BIRDS, we find that it varies, as it
does in quadrupeds, according to the species. Some are altogether
carnivorous; others, as so many of the web-footed tribes, subsist on
fish; others, again, on insects and worms; and others on grain and
fruit. The extraordinary powers of the gizzard of the granivorous
tribes, in comminuting their food so as to prepare it for digestion,
would, were they not supported by incontrovertible facts founded on
experiment, appear to exceed all credibility. Tin tubes, full of grain,
have been forced into the stomachs of turkeys, and in twenty-four hours
have been found broken, compressed, and distorted into every shape.
Twelve small lancets, very sharp both at the point and edges, have been
fixed in a ball of lead, covered with a case of paper, and given to a
turkey-cock, and left in its stomach for eight hours. After that time
the stomach was opened, when nothing appeared except the naked ball. The
twelve lancets were broken to pieces, whilst the stomach remained
perfectly sound and entire. From these facts, it is concluded that the
stones, so frequently found in the stomachs of the feathered tribes, are
highly useful in assisting the gastric juices to grind down the grain
and other hard substances which constitute their food. The stones,
themselves, being also ground down and separated by the powerful action
of the gizzard, are mixed with the food, and, no doubt, contribute very
greatly to the health, as well as to the nourishment of the animals.
924. ALL BIRDS BEING OVIPAROUS, the eggs which they produce after the
process of incubation, or sitting for a certain length of time, are, in
the various species, different both in figure and colour, as well as in
point of number. They contain the elements of the future young, for the
perfecting of which in the incubation a bubble of air is always placed
at the large end, between the shell and the inside skin. It is supposed
that from the heat communicated by the sitting bird to this confined
air, its spring is increased beyond its natural tenor, and, at the same
time, its parts are put into motion by the gentle rarefaction. By this
means, pressure and motion are communicated to the parts of the egg,
which, in some inscrutable way, gradually promote the formation and
growth of the young, till the time comes for its escaping from the
shell. To preserve an egg perfectly fresh, and even fit for incubation,
for 5 or 6 months after it has been laid, Reaumur, the French
naturalist, has shown that it is only necessary to stop up its pores
with a slight coating of varnish or mutton-suet.
925. BIRDS HOWEVER, DO NOT LAY EGGS before they have some place to put
them; accordingly, they construct nests for themselves with astonishing
art. As builders, they exhibit a degree of architectural skill,
niceness, and propriety, that would seem even to mock the imitative
talents of man, however greatly these are marked by his own high
intelligence and ingenuity.
"Each circumstance
Most artfully contrived to favour warmth.
Here read the reason of the vaulted roof;
How Providence compensates, ever kind,
The enormous disproportion that subsists
Between the mother and the numerous brood
Which her small bulk must quicken into life."
In building their nests, the male and female generally assist each
other, and they contrive to make the outside of their tenement bear as
great a resemblance as possible to the surrounding foliage or branches;
so that it cannot very easily be discovered even by those who are in
search of it. This art of nidification is one of the most wonderful
contrivances which the wide field of Nature can show, and which, of
itself, ought to be sufficient to compel mankind to the belief, that
they and every other part of the creation, are constantly under the
protecting power of a superintending Being, whose benign dispensations
seem as exhaustless as they are unlimited.
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