The Book of Household Management - Mrs. Isabella Beeton
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FOWL A LA MAYONNAISE.
962. INGREDIENTS.--A cold roast fowl, Mayonnaise sauce No. 468, 4 or 5
young lettuces, 4 hard-boiled eggs, a few water-cresses, endive.
_Mode_.--Cut the fowl into neat joints, lay them in a deep dish, piling
them high in the centre, sauce the fowl with Mayonnaise made by recipe
No. 468, and garnish the dish with young lettuces cut in halves,
water-cresses, endive, and hard-boiled eggs: these may be sliced in
rings, or laid on the dish whole, cutting off at the bottom a piece of
the white, to make the egg stand. All kinds of cold meat and solid fish
may be dressed a la Mayonnaise, and make excellent luncheon or supper
dishes. The sauce should not be poured over the fowls until the moment
of serving. Should a very large Mayonnaise be required, use 2 fowls
instead of 1, with an equal proportion of the remaining ingredients.
_Average cost_, with one fowl, 3s. 6d.
_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized dish.
_Seasonable_ from April to September.
[Illustration: BLACK SPANISH.]
BLACK SPANISH.--The real Spanish fowl is recognized by its
uniformly black colour burnished with tints of green; its
peculiar white face, and the large development of its comb and
wattle. The hens are excellent layers, and their eggs are of a
very large size. They are, however, bad nurses; consequently,
their eggs should be laid in the nest of other varieties to be
hatched. "In purchasing Spanish," says an authority, "blue legs,
the entire absence of white or coloured feathers in the plumage,
and a large, white face, with a very large high comb, which
should be erect in the cock, though pendent in the hens, should
be insisted on." The flesh of this fowl is esteemed; but, from
the smallness of its body when compared with that of the
Dorking, it is not placed on an equality with it for the table.
Otherwise, however, they are profitable birds, and their
handsome carriage, and striking contrast of colour in the comb,
face, and plumage, are a high recommendation to them as kept
fowls. For a town fowl, they are perhaps better adapted than any
other variety.
FOWL PILLAU, based on M. Soyer's Recipe (an Indian Dish).
963. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of rice, 2 oz. of butter, a fowl, 2 quarts of
stock or good broth, 40 cardamum-seeds, 1/2 oz. of coriander-seed, 1/4
oz. of cloves, 1/4 oz. of allspice, 1/4 oz. of mace, 1/4 oz. of
cinnamon, 1/2 oz. of peppercorns, 4 onions, 6 thin slices of bacon, 2
hard-boiled eggs.
_Mode_.--Well wash 1 lb. of the best Patna rice, put it into a
frying-pan with the butter, which keep moving over a slow fire until the
rice is lightly browned. Truss the fowl as for boiling, put it into a
stewpan with the stock or broth; pound the spices and seeds thoroughly
in a mortar, tie them in a piece of muslin, and put them in with the
fowl. Let it boil slowly until it is nearly done; then add the rice,
which should stew until quite tender and almost dry; cut the onions into
slices, sprinkle them with flour, and fry, without breaking them, of a
nice brown colour. Have ready the slices of bacon curled and grilled,
and the eggs boiled hard. Lay the fowl in the form of a pyramid upon a
dish, smother with the rice, garnish with the bacon, fried onions, and
the hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters, and serve very hot. Before
taking the rice out, remove the spices.
_Time_.--1/2 hour to stew the fowl without the rice; 1/2 hour with it.
_Average cost_, 4s. 3d. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
[Illustration: SULTANS.]
THE SERAI TA-OOK, OR FOWLS OF THE SULTAN.--This fowl is the size
of our English Polands, and is the latest species introduced to
England. They have a white and flowing plumage, a full-sized,
compact Poland tuft on the head, are muffed, have a full flowing
tail, short legs well feathered, and five toes upon each foot.
Their comb consists merely of two little points, and their
wattles are very small: their colour is that of a pure white. In
January, 1854, they arrived in this country from Constantinople;
and they take their name from _sarai_, the Turkish word for
sultan's palace, and _ta-ook_, the Turkish for fowl. They are
thus called the "fowls of the sultan," a name which has the
twofold advantage of being the nearest to be found to that by
which they have been known in their own country, and of
designating the country whence they come. Their habits are
described as being generally brisk and happy-tempered, but not
so easily kept in as Cochin-Chinas. They are excellent layers;
but they are non-sitters and small eaters: their eggs are large
and white. Brahmas or Cochins will clear the crop of a grass-run
long before they will, and, with scattered food, they soon
satisfy themselves and walk away.
POULET AUX CRESSONS.
964. INGREDIENTS.--A fowl, a large bunch of water-cresses, 3
tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1/4 pint of gravy.
_Mode_.--Truss and roast a fowl by recipe No. 952, taking care that it
is nicely frothed and brown. Wash and dry the water-cresses, pick them
nicely, and arrange them in a flat layer on a dish. Sprinkle over a
little salt and the above proportion of vinegar; place over these the
fowl, and pour over it the gravy. A little gravy should be served in a
tureen. When not liked, the vinegar may be omitted.
_Time_.--From 1/2 to 1 hour, according to size.
_Average cost_, in full season, 2s. 6d. each.
_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
ROAST FOWL, Stuffed.
965. INGREDIENTS.--A large fowl, forcemeat No. 417, a little flour.
_Mode_.--Select a large plump fowl, fill the breast with forcemeat, made
by recipe No. 417, truss it firmly, the same as for a plain roast fowl,
dredge it with flour, and put it down to a bright fire. Roast it for
nearly or quite an hour, should it be very large; remove the skewers,
and serve with a good brown gravy and a tureen of bread sauce.
_Time_.--Large fowl, nearly or quite 1 hour.
_Average cost_, in full season, 2s. 6d. each.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ all the year, but scarce in early spring.
_Note_.--Sausage-meat stuffing may be substituted for the above: this is
now a very general mode of serving fowl.
[Illustration: PENCILLED HAMBURG.]
PENCILLED HAMBURG.--This variety of the Hamburg fowl is of two
colours, golden and silver, and is very minutely marked. The
hens of both should have the body clearly pencilled across with
several bars of black, and the hackle in both, sexes should be
perfectly free from dark marks. The cocks do not exhibit the
pencillings, but are white or brown in the golden or silver
birds respectively. Their form is compact, and their attitudes
graceful and sprightly. The hens do not sit, but lay extremely
well; hence one of their common names, that of Dutch every-day
layers. They are also known in different parts of the country,
as Chitteprats, Creoles, or Corals, Bolton bays and grays, and,
in some parts of Yorkshire, by the wrong name of Corsican fowls.
They are imported in large numbers from Holland, but those bred
in this country are greatly superior in size.
GIBLET PIE.
966. INGREDIENTS.--A set of duck or goose giblets, 1 lb. of rump-steak,
1 onion, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole black pepper, a bunch of savoury
herbs, plain crust.
_Mode_.--Clean, and put the giblets into a stewpan with an onion, whole
pepper, and a bunch of savoury herbs; add rather more than a pint of
water, and simmer gently for about 1-1/2 hour. Take them out, let them
cool, and cut them into pieces; line the bottom of a pie-dish with a few
pieces of rump-steak; add a layer of giblets and a few more pieces of
steak; season with pepper and salt, and pour in the gravy (which should
be strained), that the giblets were stewed in; cover with a plain crust,
and bake for rather more than 1-1/2 hour in a brisk oven. Cover a piece
of paper over the pie, to prevent the crust taking too much colour.
_Time_.--1-1/2 hour to stew the giblets, about 1 hour to bake the pie.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the giblets, 1s. 4d.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
THE BRENT GOOSE.--This is the smallest and most numerous species
of the geese which visit the British islands. It makes its
appearance in winter, and ranges over the whole of the coasts
and estuaries frequented by other migrant geese. Mr. Selby
states that a very large body of these birds annually resort to
the extensive sandy and muddy flats which lie between the
mainland and Holy Island, on the Northumbrian coast, and which
are covered by every flow of the tide. This part of the coast
appears to have been a favourite resort of these birds from time
immemorial, where they have always received the name of Ware
geese, no doubt from their continually feeding on marine
vegetables. Their flesh is very agreeable.
HASHED GOOSE.
967. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast goose, 2 onions, 2 oz. of
butter, 1 pint of boiling water, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, pepper and
salt to taste, 1 tablespoonful of port wine, 2 tablespoonfuls of
mushroom ketchup.
_Mode_.--Cut up the goose into pieces of the size required; the inferior
joints, trimmings, &c., put into a stewpan to make the gravy; slice and
fry the onions in the butter of a very pale brown; add these to the
trimmings, and pour over about a pint of boiling water; stew these
gently for 3/4 hour, then skim and strain the liquor. Thicken it with
flour, and flavour with port wine and ketchup, in the above proportion;
add a seasoning of pepper and salt, and put in the pieces of goose; let
these get thoroughly hot through, but do not allow them to boil, and
serve with sippets of toasted bread.
_Time_.--Altogether, rather more than 1 hour.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold goose, 4d.
_Seasonable_ from September to March.
THE WILD GOOSE.--This bird is sometimes called the "Gray-lag"
and is the original of the domestic goose. It is, according to
Pennant, the only species which the Britons could take young,
and familiarize. "The Gray-lag," says Mr. Gould, "is known to
Persia, and we believe it is generally dispersed over Asia
Minor." It is the bird that saved the Capitol by its vigilance,
and by the Romans was cherished accordingly.
ROAST GOOSE.
968. INGREDIENTS.--Goose, 4 large onions, 10 sage-leaves, 1/4 lb. of
bread crumbs, 1-1/2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 1 egg.
_Choosing and Trussing_.--Select a goose with a clean white skin, plump
breast, and yellow feet: if these latter are red, the bird is old.
Should the weather permit, let it hang for a few days: by so doing, the
flavour will be very much improved. Pluck, singe, draw, and carefully
wash and wipe the goose; cut off the neck close to the back, leaving the
skin long enough to turn over; cut off the feet at the first joint, and
separate the pinions at the first joint. Beat the breast-bone flat with
a rolling-pin, put a skewer through the under part of each wing, and
having drawn up the legs closely, put a skewer into the middle of each,
and pass the same quite through the body. Insert another skewer into the
small of the leg, bring it close down to the side bone, run it through,
and do the same to the other side. Now cut off the end of the vent, and
make a hole in the skin sufficiently large for the passage of the rump,
in order to keep in the seasoning.
[Illustration: ROAST GOOSE.]
_Mode_.--Make a sage-and-onion stuffing of the above ingredients, by
recipe No. 504; put it into the body of the goose, and secure it firmly
at both ends, by passing the rump through the hole made in the skin, and
the other end by tying the skin of the neck to the back; by this means
the seasoning will not escape. Put it down to a brisk fire, keep it well
basted, and roast from 1-1/2 to 2 hours, according to the size. Remove
the skewers, and serve with a tureen of good gravy, and one of well-made
apple-sauce. Should a very highly-flavoured seasoning be preferred, the
onions should not be parboiled, but minced raw: of the two methods, the
mild seasoning is far superior. A ragout, or pie, should be made of the
giblets, or they may be stewed down to make gravy. Be careful to serve
the goose before the breast falls, or its appearance will be spoiled by
coming flattened to table. As this is rather a troublesome joint to
carve, a _large_ quantity of gravy should not be poured round the goose,
but sent in a tureen.
_Time_.--A large goose, 1-3/4 hour; a moderate-sized one, 1-1/4 to 1-1/2
hour.
_Seasonable_ from September to March; but in perfection from Michaelmas
to Christmas.
_Average cost_, 5s. 6d. each. _Sufficient_ for 8 or 9 persons.
_Note_.--A teaspoonful of made mustard, a saltspoonful of salt, a few
grains of cayenne, mixed with a glass of port wine, are sometimes poured
into the goose by a slit made in the apron. This sauce is, by many
persons, considered an improvement.
[Illustration: EMDEN GOOSE.]
THE GOOSE.--This bird is pretty generally distributed over the
face of the globe, being met with in North America, Lapland,
Iceland, Arabia, and Persia. Its varieties are numerous; but in
England there is only one species, which is supposed to be a
native breed. The best geese are found on the borders of
Suffolk, and in Norfolk and Berkshire; but the largest flocks
are reared in the fens of Lincolnshire and Cambridge. They
thrive best where they have an easy access to water, and large
herds of them are sent every year to London, to be fattened by
the metropolitan poulterers. "A Michaelmas goose," says Dr.
Kitchener, "is as famous in the mouths of the million as the
minced-pie at Christmas; yet for those who eat with delicacy, it
is, at that time, too full-grown. The true period when the goose
is in the highest perfection is when it has just acquired its
full growth, and not begun to harden; if the March goose is
insipid, the Michaelmas goose is rank. The fine time is between
both; from the second week in June to the first in September."
It is said that the Michaelmas goose is indebted to Queen
Elizabeth for its origin on the table at that season. Her
majesty happened to dine on one at the table of an English
baronet, when she received the news of the discomfiture of the
Spanish Armada. In commemoration of this event, she commanded
the goose to make its appearance at table on every Michaelmas.
We here give an engraving of the Emden goose.
TO DRESS A GREEN GOOSE.
969. INGREDIENTS.--Goose, 3 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste.
_Mode_.--Geese are called green till they are about four months old, and
should not be stuffed. After it has been singed and trussed, the same as
in the preceding recipe, put into the body a seasoning of pepper and
salt, and the butter to moisten it inside. Roast before a clear fire for
about 3/4 hour, froth and brown it nicely, and serve with a brown gravy,
and, when liked, gooseberry-sauce. This dish should be garnished with
water-cresses.
_Time_.--About 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 4s. 6d. each.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ in June, July, and August.
[Illustration: TOULOUSE GOOSE.]
THE EGYPTIAN GOOSE.--Especial attention has been directed to
this bird by Herodotus, who says it was held sacred by the
ancient Egyptians, which has been partially confirmed by modern
travellers. Mr. Salt remarks, "Horus Apollo says the old geese
stay with their young in the most imminent danger, at the risk
of their own lives, which I have myself frequently witnessed.
Vielpanser is the goose of the Nile, and wherever this goose is
represented on the walls of the temples in colours, the
resemblance may be clearly traced." The goose is also said to
have been a bird under the care of Isis. It has been placed by
Mr. Gould amongst the birds of Europe; not from the number of
half-reclaimed individuals which are annually shot in Britain,
but from the circumstance of its occasionally visiting the
southern parts of the continent from its native country, Africa.
The Toulouse goose, of which we give an engraving, is a
well-known bird.
ROAST GUINEA-FOWL, Larded.
970. INGREDIENTS.--A Guinea-fowl, lardoons, flour, and salt.
_Mode_.--When this bird is larded, it should be trussed the same as a
pheasant; if plainly roasted, truss it like a turkey. After larding and
trussing it, put it down to roast at a brisk fire; keep it well basted,
and a short time before serving, dredge it with a little flour, and let
it froth nicely. Serve with a little gravy in the dish, and a tureen of
the same, and one of well-made bread-sauce.
_Time_.--Guinea-fowl, larded, 1-1/4 hour; plainly roasted, about 1 hour.
_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ in winter.
_Note_.--The breast, if larded, should be covered with a piece of paper,
and removed about 10 minutes before serving.
[Illustration: GUINEA-FOWLS.]
THE GUINEA-FOWL.--The bird takes its name from Guinea, in
Africa, where it is found--wild, and in great abundance. It is
gregarious in its habits, associating in flocks of two or three
hundred, delighting in marshy grounds, and at night perching
upon trees, or on high situations. Its size is about the same as
that of a common hen, but it stands higher on its legs. Though
domesticated, it retains much of its wild nature, and is apt to
wander. The hens lay abundantly, and the eggs are excellent. In
their flesh, however, they are not so white as the common fowl,
but more inclined to the colour of the pheasant, for which it
frequently makes a good substitute at table. The flesh is both
savoury and easy of digestion, and is in season when game is out
of season.
LARK PIE (an Entree).
971. INGREDIENTS.--A few thin slices of beef, the same of bacon, 9
larks, flour; for stuffing, 1 teacupful of bread crumbs, 1/2 teaspoonful
of minced lemon-peel, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, 1 egg, salt and
pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of chopped shalot, 1/2 pint of weak stock
or water, puff-paste.
_Mode_.--Make a stuffing of bread crumbs, minced lemon-peel, parsley,
and the yolk of an egg, all of which should be well mixed together; roll
the larks in flour, and stuff them. Line the bottom of a pie-dish with a
few slices of beef and bacon; over these place the larks, and season
with salt, pepper, minced parsley, and chopped shalot, in the above
proportion. Pour in the stock or water, cover with crust, and bake for
an hour in a moderate oven. During the time the pie is baking, shake it
2 or 3 times, to assist in thickening the gravy, and serve very hot.
_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. a dozen.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_.--In full season in November.
ROAST LARKS.
972. INGREDIENTS.--Larks, egg and bread crumbs, fresh butter.
_Mode_.--These birds are by many persons esteemed a great delicacy, and
may be either roasted or broiled. Pick, gut, and clean them; when they
are trussed, brush them over with the yolk of an egg; sprinkle with
bread crumbs, and roast them before a quick fire; baste them continually
with fresh butter, and keep sprinkling with the bread crumbs until the
birds are well covered. Dish them on bread crumbs fried in clarified
butter, and garnish the dish with slices of lemon. Broiled larks are
also very excellent: they should be cooked over a clear fire, and would
take about 10 minutes or 1/4 hour.
_Time_.--1/4 hour to roast; 10 minutes to broil.
_Seasonable_.--In full season in November.
_Note_.--Larks may also be plainly roasted, without covering them with
egg and bread crumbs; they should be dished on fried crumbs.
BROILED PIGEONS.
973. INGREDIENTS.--Pigeons, 3 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste.
_Mode_.--Take care that the pigeons are quite fresh, and carefully
pluck, draw, and wash them; split the backs, rub the birds over with
butter, season them with pepper and salt, and broil them over a moderate
fire for 1/4 hour or 20 minutes. Serve very hot, with either
mushroom-sauce or a good gravy. Pigeons may also be plainly boiled, and
served with parsley and butter; they should be trussed like boiled
fowls, and take from 1/4 hour to 20 minutes to boil.
_Time_.--To broil a pigeon, from 1/4 hour to 20 minutes; to boil one,
the same time.
_Average cost_, from 6d. to 9d. each.
_Seasonable_ from April to September, but in the greatest perfection
from midsummer to Michaelmas.
THE POUTER PIGEON.--This is a very favourite pigeon, and,
without doubt, the most curious of his species. He is a tail
strong bird, as he had need be to carry about his great inflated
crop, frequently as large and as round as a middling-sized
turnip. A perfect pouter, seen on a windy day, is certainly a
ludicrous sight: his feathered legs have the appearance of white
trousers; his tapering tail looks like a swallow-tailed coat;
his head is entirely concealed by his immense windy
protuberance; and, altogether, he reminds you of a little
"swell" of a past century, staggering under a bale of linen. The
most common pouters are the blues, buffs, and whites, or an
intermixture of all these various colours. The pouter is not a
prolific breeder, is a bad nurse, and more likely to degenerate,
if not repeatedly crossed and re-crossed with Irish stock, than
any other pigeon: nevertheless, it is a useful bird to keep if
you are founding a new colony, as it is much attached to its
home, and little apt to stray; consequently it is calculated to
induce more restless birds to fettle down and make themselves
comfortable. If you wish to breed pouters, you cannot do worse
than intrust them with the care of their own eggs.
ROAST PIGEONS.
974. INGREDIENTS.--Pigeons, 3 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste.
_Trussing_.--Pigeons, to be good, should be eaten fresh (if kept a
little, the flavour goes off), and they should be drawn as soon as
killed. Cut off the heads and necks, truss the wings over the backs, and
cut off the toes at the first joint: previous to trussing, they should
be carefully cleaned, as no bird requires so much washing.
[Illustration: ROAST PIGEON.]
_Mode_.--Wipe the birds very dry, season them inside with pepper and
salt, and put about 3/4 oz. of butter into the body of each: this makes
them moist. Put them down to a bright fire, and baste them well the
whole of the time they are cooking (they will be done enough in from 20
to 30 minutes); garnish with fried parsley, and serve with a tureen of
parsley and butter. Bread-sauce and gravy, the same as for roast fowl,
are exceedingly nice accompaniments to roast pigeons, as also egg-sauce.
_Time_.--From 20 minutes to 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. to 9d. each.
_Seasonable_ from April to September; but in the greatest perfection
from Midsummer to Michaelmas.
THE PIGEON--The pigeon tribe forms a connecting ling between the
passerine birds and poultry. They are widely distributed over
the world, some of the species being found even in the arctic
regions. Their chief food is grain, and they drink much; not at
intervals, like other birds, but by a continuous draught, like
quadrupeds. The wild pigeon, or stockdove, is the parent whence
all the varieties of the domestic pigeon are derived. In the
wild state it is still found in many parts of this island,
making its nest in the holes of rocks, in the hollows of trees,
or in old towers, but never, like the ringdove, on branches. The
blue house-pigeon is the variety principally reared for the
table in this country, and is produced from our farmyards in
great numbers. When young, and still fed by their parents, they
are most preferable for the table, and are called _squabs_;
under six months they are denominated _squeakers_, and at six
months they begin to breed. Their flesh is accounted savoury,
delicate, and stimulating, and the dark-coloured birds are
considered to have the highest flavour, whilst the light are
esteemed to have the more delicate flesh.
THE PIGEON-HOUSE, OR DOVECOT.--The first thing to be done
towards keeping pigeons is to provide a commodious place for
their reception; and the next is, to provide the pigeons
themselves. The situation or size of the dovecot will
necessarily depend on convenience; but there is one point which
must invariably be observed, and that is, that every pair of
pigeons has two holes or rooms to nest in. This is
indispensable, as, without it, there will be no security, but
the constant prospect of confusion, breaking of eggs, and the
destruction of young. The proper place for the pigeon-house is
the poultry-yard; but it does very well near dwellings, stables,
brewhouses, bakehouses, or such offices. Some persons keep
pigeons in rooms, and have them making their nests on the floor.
The object is to escape the danger of the young falling out; but
in such cases, there is a great risk of rats or other vermin
getting at the pigeons.
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