The Book of Household Management - Mrs. Isabella Beeton

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FECUNDITY OF THE RABBIT.--The fruitfulness of this animal has
been the subject of wonder to all naturalists. It breeds seven
times in the year, and generally begets seven or eight young
ones at a time. If we suppose this to happen regularly for a
period of four years, the progeny that would spring from a
single pair would amount to more than a million. As the rabbit,
however, has many enemies, it can never be permitted to increase
in numbers to such an extent as to prove injurious to mankind;
for it not only furnishes man with an article of food, but is,
by carnivorous animals of every description, mercilessly
sacrificed. Notwithstanding this, however, in the time of the
Roman power, they once infested the Balearic islands to such an
extent, that the inhabitants were obliged to implore the
assistance of a military force from Augustus to exterminate
them.

RAGOUT OF RABBIT OR HARE.

982. INGREDIENTS.--1 rabbit, 3 teaspoonfuls of flour, 3 sliced onions, 2
oz. of butter, a few thin slices of bacon, pepper and salt to taste, 2
slices of lemon, 1 bay-leaf, 1 glass of port wine.

_Mode_.--Slice the onions, and put them into a stewpan with the flour
and butter; place the pan near the fire, stir well as the butter melts,
till the onions become a rich brown colour, and add, by degrees, a
little water or gravy till the mixture is of the consistency of cream.
Cut some thin slices of bacon; lay in these with the rabbit, cut into
neat joints; add a seasoning of pepper and salt, the lemon and bay-leaf,
and let the whole simmer until tender. Pour in the port wine, give one
boil, and serve.

_Time_.--About 1/2 hour to simmer the rabbit.

_Average cost_, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. each. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5
persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to February.

THE RABBIT-HOUSE.--Rabbit-keeping is generally practised by a
few individuals in almost every town, and by a few in almost
every part of the country. Forty years ago, there were in the
metropolis one or two considerable feeders, who, according to
report, kept from 1,600 to 2,000 breeding does. These large
establishments, however, have ceased to exist, and London
receives the supply of tame as well as wild rabbits chiefly from
the country. Where they are kept, however, the rabbit-house
should be placed upon a dry foundation, and be well ventilated.
Exposure to rain, whether externally or internally, is fatal to
rabbits, which, like sheep, are liable to the rot, springing
from the same causes. Thorough ventilation and good air are
indispensable where many rabbits are kept, or they will neither
prosper nor remain healthy for any length of time. A thorough
draught or passage for the air is, therefore, absolutely
necessary, and should be so contrived as to be checked in cold
or wet weather by the closing or shutting of opposite doors or
windows.

ROAST OR BAKED RABBIT.

983. INGREDIENTS.--1 rabbit, forcemeat No. 417, buttered paper,
sausage-meat.

[Illustration: ROAST RABBIT.]

_Mode_.--Empty, skin, and thoroughly wash the rabbit; wipe it dry, line
the inside with sausage-meat and forcemeat made by recipe No. 417, and
to which has been added the minced liver. Sew the stuffing inside,
skewer back the head between the shoulders, cut off the fore-joints of
the shoulders and legs, bring: them close to the body, and secure them
by means of a skewer. Wrap the rabbit in buttered paper, and put it down
to a bright clear fire; keep it well basted, and a few minutes before it
is done remove the paper, flour and froth it, and let it acquire a nice
brown colour. Take out the skewers, and serve with brown gravy and
red-currant jelly. To bake the rabbit, proceed in the same manner as
above; in a good oven, it will take about the same time as roasting.

_Time_.--A young rabbit, 35 minutes; a large one, about 3/4 hour.

_Average cost_, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. each. _Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to February.

THE HUTCH.--Hutches are generally placed one above another to
the height required by the number of rabbits and the extent of
the room. Where a large stock is kept, to make the most of room,
the hutches may be placed in rows, with a sufficient interval
between for feeding and cleaning, instead of being, in the usual
way, joined to the wall. It is preferable to rest the hutches
upon stands, about a foot above the ground, for the convenience
of cleaning under them. Each of the hutches intended for
breeding should have two rooms,--a feeding and a bed-room. Those
are single for the use of the weaned rabbits, or for the bucks,
which are always kept separate. The floors should be planed
smooth, that wet may run off, and a common hoe, with a short
handle, and a short broom, are most convenient implements for
cleaning these houses.

STEWED RABBIT.

984. INGREDIENTS.--1 rabbit, 2 large onions, 6 cloves, 1 small
teaspoonful of chopped lemon-peel, a few forcemeat balls, thickening of
butter and flour, 1 large tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup.

_Mode_.--Cut the rabbit into small joints; put them into a stewpan, add
the onions sliced, the cloves, and minced lemon-peel. Pour in sufficient
water to cover the meat, and, when the rabbit is nearly done, drop in a
few forcemeat balls, to which has been added the liver, finely chopped.
Thicken the gravy with flour and butter, put in the ketchup, give one
boil, and serve.

_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. to 1s. 6d each.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to February.

[Illustration: LOP-EARED RABBIT.]

FANCY RABBITS.--The graceful fall of the ears is the first thing
that is looked to by the fancier; next, the dewlap, if the
animal is in its prime; then the colours and marked points, and,
lastly, the shape and general appearance. The ears of a fine
rabbit should extend not less than seven inches, measured from
tip to tip in a line across the skull; but even should they
exceed this length, they are admitted with reluctance into a
fancy stock, unless they have a uniform and graceful droop. The
dewlap, which is a fold of skin under the neck and throat, is
only seen in fancy rabbits, after they have attained their full
growth: it commences immediately under the jaw, and adds greatly
to the beauty of their appearance. It goes down the throat and
between the fore legs, and is so broad that it projects beyond
the chin.

The difference between the fancy and common rabbit in the back,
independent of the ears, is sufficient to strike the common
observer. Fancy rabbits fetch a very high price; so much as five
and ten guineas, and even more, is sometimes given for a
first-rate doe. If young ones are first procured from a good
family, the foundation of an excellent stock can be procured for
a much smaller sum. Sometimes the ears, instead of drooping
down, slope backwards: a rabbit with this characteristic is
scarcely admitted into a fancy lot, and is not considered worth
more than the common variety. The next position is when one ear
lops outwards, and the other stands erect: rabbits of this kind
possess but little value, however fine the shape and beautiful
the colour, although they sometimes breed as good specimens as
finer ones.

The forward or horn-lop is one degree nearer perfection than the
half-lop: the ears, in this case, slope forward and down over
the forehead. Rabbits with this peculiarity are often perfect in
other respects, with the exception of the droop of the ears, and
often become the parents of perfect young ones: does of this
kind often have the power of lifting an ear erect. In the
ear-lop, the ears spread out in an horizontal position, like the
wings of a bird in flight, or the arms of a man swimming. A
great many excellent does have this characteristic, and some of
the best-bred bucks in the fancy are entirely so. Sometimes a
rabbit drops one ear completely, but raises the other so neatly
horizontally as to constitute an ear-lop: this is superior to
all others, except the perfect fall, which is so rarely to be
met with, that those which are merely ear-lopped are considered
as valuable rabbits, if well bred and with other good qualities.

"The real lop has ears that hang down by the side of the cheek,
slanting somewhat outward in their descent, with the open part
of the ear inward, and sometimes either backwards or forwards
instead of perpendicular: when the animals stand in an easy
position, the tips of the ears touch the ground. The hollows of
the ears, in a fancy rabbit of a first-rate kind, should be
turned so completely backwards that only the outer part of them
should remain in front: they should match exactly in their
descent, and should slant outwards as little as possible."

The same authority asserts that perfect lops are so rare, that a
breeder possessing twenty of the handsomest and most perfect
does would consider himself lucky if, in the course of a year,
he managed to raise twelve full-lopped rabbits out of them all.
As regards variety and purity of colour an experienced breeder
says:--

"The fur of fancy rabbits may be blue, or rather lead-colour,
and white, or black and white, or tawny and white, that is,
tortoiseshell-coloured. But it is not of so much importance what
colours the coat of a rabbit displays, as it is that those
colours shall be arranged in a particular manner, forming
imaginary figures or fancied resemblances to certain objects.
Hence the peculiarities of their markings have been denoted by
distinctive designations. What is termed 'the blue butterfly
smut' was, for some time, considered the most valuable of fancy
rabbits. It is thus named on account of having bluish or
lead-coloured spots on either side of the nose, having some
resemblance to the spread wings of a butterfly, what may be
termed the groundwork of the rabbit's face being white. A black
and white rabbit may also have the face marked in a similar
manner, constituting a 'black butterfly smut.'

"But A good fancy rabbit must likewise have other marks, without
which it cannot be considered a perfect model of its kind. There
should be a black or blue patch on its back, called the saddle;
the tail must be of the same colour with the back and snout;
while the legs should be all white; and there ought to be dark
stripes on both sides of the body in front, passing backwards to
meet the saddle, and uniting on the top of the shoulders at the
part called the withers in a horse. These stripes form what is
termed the 'chain' having somewhat the appearance of a chain or
collar hanging round the neck."

"Among thorough-bred fancy rabbits, perhaps not one in a hundred
will have all these markings clearly and exactly displayed on
the coat; but the more nearly the figures on the coat of a
rabbit approach to the pattern described, the greater will be
its value, so far, at least, as relates to colour. The beauty
and consequent worth of a fancy rabbit, however, depends a good
deal on its shape, or what is styled its carriage. A rabbit is
said to have a good carriage when its back is finely arched,
rising full two inches above the top of its head, which must be
held so low as for the muzzle and the points of the ears to
reach almost to the ground."

STEWED RABBIT, Larded.

985. INGREDIENTS.--1 rabbit, a few strips of bacon, rather more than 1
pint of good broth or stock, a bunch of savoury herbs, salt and pepper
to taste, thickening of butter and flour, 1 glass of sherry.

_Mode_.--Well wash the rabbit, cut it into quarters, lard them with
Blips of bacon, and fry them; then put them into a stewpan with the
broth, herbs, and a seasoning of pepper and salt; simmer gently until
the rabbit is tender, then strain the gravy, thicken it with butter and
flour, add the sherry, give one boil, pour it over the rabbit, and
serve. Garnish with slices of cut lemon.

_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, 1s. to 1s. 6d. each.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to February.

[Illustration: THE HARE-RABBIT.]

THE HARE-RABBIT.--There has been lately introduced to French
tables an animal called the "Hare-rabbit," partaking of the
nature, characteristics, and qualifications of both the hare and
the rabbit. It is highly spoken of, both as regards flesh and
flavour; and it is said to be the only hybrid which is able to
perpetuate its race. We hope that some enterprising individual
will soon secure for English, tables what would seem to be a
really valuable addition to our other game and poultry dishes;
although it will be rather difficult to exactly assign its
proper position, as within or without the meaning of "game," as
by law established. Only a few specimens have been seen in
England at present, but there is no reason to doubt that our
rabbit-fanciers will prove equal to the occasion, and cope
successfully with our neighbours across the Channel in
introducing a new animal serviceable in the kitchen.

[Illustration: ANGORA RABBIT.]

THE ANGORA RABBIT.--This is one of the handsomest of all
rabbits. It takes its name from being an inhabitant of Angora, a
city and district of Asia Minor. Like the well-known Angora goat
and cat, both of which are valuable on account of the fineness
of their wool and fur, this rabbit is prized for its long,
waved, silky fur, which, as an article of commerce is highly
esteemed. We are not aware whether it is eaten by the
inhabitants, and but few specimens have been introduced into
England, where, doubtless, the beauty of its coat would
materially suffer from the more humid and less genial character
of the climate. To the rabbits of the ancient and mountainous
district of Angora the words of the wise man would seem most to
apply, "The conies are but feeble folk, yet make they their
houses in the rocks."

[Illustration: HIMALAYA RABBITS.]

THE HIMALAYA RABBIT.--Amidst the mighty Himalaya mountains,
whose peaks are the highest on the globe, the pretty rabbit here
portrayed is found; and his colour seems to be like the snow,
which, above the altitude of from 13,000 to 16,000 feet,
perpetually crowns the summits of these monarchs of the world.
It is, at present, a very rare animal in England, but will,
doubtless, be more extensively known in the course of a few
years. From the earth-tunnelling powers of this little animal,
Martial declares that mankind learned the art of fortification,
mining, and covered roads.

BOILED TURKEY.

986. INGREDIENTS.--Turkey; forcemeat No. 417.

_Choosing and Trussing_.--Hen turkeys are preferable for boiling, on
account of their whiteness and tenderness, and one of moderate size
should be selected, as a large one is not suitable for this mode of
cooking. They should not be dressed until they have been killed 3 or 4
days, as they will neither look white, nor will they be tender. Pluck
the bird, carefully draw, and singe it with a piece of white paper, wash
it inside and out, and wipe it thoroughly dry with a cloth. Cut off the
head and neck, draw the strings or sinews of the thighs, and cut off the
legs at the first joint; draw the legs into the body, fill the breast
with forcemeat made by recipe No. 417; run a skewer through the wing and
the middle joint of the leg, quite into the leg and wing on the opposite
side; break the breastbone, and make the bird look as round and as
compact as possible.

[Illustration: BOILED TURKEY.]

_Mode_.--Put the turkey into sufficient _hot_ water to cover it; let it
come to a boil, then carefully remove all the scum: if this is attended
to, there is no occasion to boil the bird in a floured cloth; but it
should be well covered with the water. Let it simmer very gently for
about 1-1/2 hour to 1-3/4 hour, according to the size, and serve with
either white, celery, oyster, or mushroom sauce, or parsley-and-butter,
a little of which should be poured over the turkey. Boiled ham, bacon,
tongue, or pickled pork, should always accompany this dish; and when
oyster sauce is served, the turkey should be stuffed with oyster
forcemeat.

_Time_.--A small turkey, 1-1/2 hour; a large one, 1-3/4 hour.

_Average cost_, 5s. 6d. to 7s. 6d. each, but more expensive at
Christmas, on account of the great demand.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ from December to February.

THE TURKEY.--The turkey, for which fine bird we are indebted to
America, is certainly one of the most glorious presents made by
the New World to the Old. Some, indeed, assert that this bird
was known to the ancients, and that it was served at the
wedding-feast of Charlemagne. This opinion, however, has been
controverted by first-rate authorities, who declare that the
French name of the bird, _dindon_, proves its origin; that the
form of the bird is altogether foreign, and that it is found in
America alone in a wild state. There is but little doubt, from
the information which has been gained at considerable trouble,
that it appeared, generally, in Europe about the end of the 17th
century; that it was first imported into France by Jesuits, who
had been sent out missionaries to the West; and that from France
it spread over Europe. To this day, in many localities in
France, a turkey is called a Jesuit. On the farms of N. America,
where turkeys are very common, they are raised either from eggs
which have been found, or from young ones caught in the woods:
they thus preserve almost entirely their original plumage. The
turkey only became gradually acclimated, both on the continent
and in England: in the middle of the 18th century, scarcely 10
out of 20 young turkeys lived; now, generally speaking, 15 out
of the same number arrive at maturity.

CROQUETTES OF TURKEY (Cold Meat Cookery).

987. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold turkey; to every 1/2 lb. of meat
allow 2 oz. of ham or bacon, 2 shalots, 1 oz. of butter, 1 tablespoonful
of flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, egg and bread crumbs.

_Mode_.--The smaller pieces, that will not do for a fricassee or hash,
answer very well for this dish. Mince the meat finely with ham or bacon
in the above proportion; make a gravy of the bones and trimmings, well
seasoning it; mince the shalots, put them into a stewpan with the
butter, add the flour; mix well, then put in the mince, and about 1/2
pint of the gravy made from the bones. (The proportion of the butter
must be increased or diminished according to the quantity of mince.)
When just boiled, add the yolks of 2 eggs; put the mixture out to cool,
and then shape it in a wineglass. Cover the croquettes with egg and
bread crumbs, and fry them a delicate brown. Put small pieces of
parsley-stems for stalks, and serve with, rolled bacon cut very thin.

_Time_.--8 minutes to fry the croquettes.

_Seasonable_ from December to February.

THE WILD TURKEY.--In its wild state, the turkey is gregarious,
going together in extensive flocks, numbering as many as five
hundred. These frequent the great swamps of America, where they
roost; but, at sunrise, leave these situations to repair to the
dry woods, in search of berries and acorns. They perch on the
boughs of trees, and, by rising from branch to branch, attain
the height they desire. They usually mount to the highest tops,
apparently from an instinctive conception that the loftier they
are the further they are out of danger. They fly awkwardly, but
run with great swiftness, and, about the month of March become
so fat as not to be able to take a flight beyond three or four
hundred yards, and are then, also, easily run down by a
horseman. Now, however, it rarely happens that wild turkeys are
seen in the inhabited parts of America. It is only in the
distant and more unfrequented parts that they are found in great
numbers.

FRICASSEED TURKEY (Cold Meat Cookery).

988. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast or boiled turkey; a strip
of lemon-peel, a bunch of savoury herbs, 1 onion, pepper and salt to
taste, 1 pint of water, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, the yolk of an egg.

_Mode_.--Cut some nice slices from the remains of a cold turkey, and put
the bones and trimmings into a stewpan, with the lemon-peel, herbs,
onion, pepper, salt, add the water; stew for an hour, strain the gravy,
and lay in the pieces of turkey. When warm through, add the cream and
the yolk of an egg; stir it well round, and, when getting thick, take
out the pieces, lay them on a hot dish, and pour the sauce over. Garnish
the fricassee with sippets of toasted bread. Celery or cucumbers, cut
into small pieces, may be put into the sauce; if the former, it must be
boiled first.

_Time_.--1 hour to make the gravy.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold turkey, 4d.

_Seasonable_ from December to February.

THE TURKEY.--This is one of the gallinaceous birds, the
principal genera of which are Pheasants, Turkeys, Peacocks,
Bustards, Pintatoes, and Grouse. They live mostly on the ground,
scraping the earth with their feet, and feeding on seeds and
grains, which, previous to digestion, are macerated in their
crops. They usually associate in families, consisting of one
male and several females. Turkeys are particularly fond of the
seeds of nettles, whilst the seeds of the foxglove will poison
them. The common turkey is a native of North America, and, in
the reign of Henry VIII., was introduced into England. According
to Tusser's "Five Hundred Points of Good Husbandry," it began
about the year 1585 to form a dish at our rural Christmas
feasts:--

"Beefe, mutton, and pork, shred pies of the best,
Pig, veal, goose, and capon, and turkey well drest;
Cheese, apples, and nuts, jolly carols to hear,
As then in the country is counted good cheer."

The turkey is one of the most difficult birds to rear, and its
flesh is much esteemed.

THE DISPOSITION OF THE TURKEY.--Among themselves, turkeys are
extremely furious, whilst amongst other animals they are usually
both weak and cowardly. The domestic cock frequently makes them
keep at a distance, whilst they will rarely attack him but in a
united body, when the cock is rather crushed by their weight
than defeated by their prowess. The disposition of the female is
in general much more gentle than that of the male. When leading
forth her young to collect their food, though so large and
apparently so powerful a bird, she gives them very slight
protection from the attacks of any rapacious animal which may
appear against them. She rather warns them of their danger than
offers to defend them; yet she is extremely affectionate to her
young.

HASHED TURKEY.

989. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast turkey, 1 onion, pepper and
salt to taste, rather more than 1 pint of water, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, 1
blade of mace, a bunch of savoury herbs, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom
ketchup, 1 tablespoonful of port wine, thickening of butter and flour.

_Mode_.--Cut the turkey into neat joints; the best pieces reserve for
the hash, the inferior joints and trimmings put into a stewpan with an
onion cut in slices, pepper and salt, a carrot, turnip, mace, herbs, and
water in the above proportion; simmer these for an hour, then strain the
gravy, thicken it with butter and flour, flavour with ketchup and port
wine, and lay in the pieces of turkey to warm through; if there is any
stuffing left, put that in also, as it so much improves the flavour of
the gravy. When it boils, serve, and garnish the dish with sippets of
toasted bread.

_Time_.--1 hour to make the gravy.

_Seasonable_ from December to February.

HUNTING TURKEYS.--Formerly, in Canada, hunting turkeys was one
of the principal diversions of the natives of that country. When
they discovered the retreat of the birds, which was generally
near a field of nettles, or where grain of any kind was
plentiful, they would send a well-trained dog into the midst of
the flock. The turkeys no sooner perceived their enemy than they
would run off at full speed, and with such swiftness that they
would leave the dog far behind. He, however, would follow in
their wake, and as they could not, for a great length of time,
continue at their speed, they were at last forced to seek
shelter in the trees. There they would sit, spent with fatigue,
till the hunters would approach, and, with long poles, knock
them down one after the other.