The Book of Household Management - Mrs. Isabella Beeton
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HASHED GAME (Cold Meat Cookery).
1023. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold game, 1 onion stuck with 3
cloves, a few whole peppers, a strip of lemon-peel, salt to taste,
thickening of butter and flour, 1 glass of port wine, 1 tablespoonful of
lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful of ketchup, 1 pint of water or weak stock.
_Mode_.--Cut the remains of cold game into joints, reserve the best
pieces, and the inferior ones and trimmings put into a stewpan with the
onion, pepper, lemon-peel, salt, and water or weak stock; stew these for
about an hour, and strain the gravy; thicken it with butter and flour;
add the wine, lemon-juice, and ketchup; lay in the pieces of game, and
let them gradually warm through by the side of the fire; do not allow it
to boil, or the game will be hard. When on the point of simmering,
serve, and garnish the dish with sippets of toasted bread.
_Time_.--Altogether 1-1/4 hour.
_Seasonable_ from August to March.
_Note_.--Any kind of game may be hashed by the above recipe, and the
flavour may be varied by adding flavoured vinegars, curvy powder, &c.;
but we cannot recommend these latter ingredients, as a dish of game
should really have a gamy taste; and if too many sauces, essences, &c.,
are added to the gravy, they quite overpower and destroy the flavour the
dish should possess.
GROUSE PIE.
1024. INGREDIENTS.--Grouse; cayenne, salt, and pepper to taste; 1 lb. of
rump-steak, 1/2 pint of well-seasoned broth, puff paste.
_Mode_.--Line the bottom of a pie-dish with the rump-steak cut into neat
pieces, and, should the grouse be large, cut them into joints; but, if
small, they may be laid in the pie whole; season highly with salt,
cayenne, and black pepper; pour in the broth, and cover with a puff
paste; brush the crust over with the yolk of an egg, and bake from 3/4
to 1 hour. If the grouse is cut into joints, the backbones and trimmings
will make the gravy, by stewing them with an onion, a little sherry, a
bunch of herbs, and a blade of mace: this should be poured in after the
pie is baked.
_Time_.--3/4 to 1 hour.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the grouse, which are seldom bought, 1s.
9d.
_Seasonable_ from the 12th of August to the beginning of December.
ROAST GROUSE.
[Illustration: ROAST GROUSE.]
1025. INGREDIENTS.--Grouse, butter, a thick slice of toasted bread.
_Mode_.--Let the birds hang as long as possible; pluck and draw them;
wipe, but do not wash them, inside and out, and truss them without the
head, the same as for a roast fowl. Many persons still continue to truss
them with the head under the wing, but the former is now considered the
most approved method. Put them down to a sharp clear fire; keep them
well basted the whole of the time they are cooking, and serve them on a
buttered toast, soaked in the dripping-pan, with a little melted butter
poured over them, or with bread-sauce and gravy.--See coloured plate,
L1.
_Time_.--1/2 hour; if liked very thoroughly done, 35 minutes.
_Average cost_, 2s. to 2s. 6d. the brace; but seldom bought.
_Sufficient_,--2 for a dish.
_Seasonable_ from the 12th of August to the beginning of December.
[Illustration: RED GROUSE.]
GROUSE.--These birds are divided into wood grouse, black grouse,
red grouse, and white grouse. The wood grouse is further
distinguished as the cock of the wood, or capercalzie, and is as
large as the turkey, being about two feet nine inches in length,
and weighing from twelve to fifteen pounds. The female is
considerably less than the male, and, in the colour of her
feathers, differs widely from the other. This beautiful species
is found principally in lofty, mountainous regions, and is very
rare in Great Britain; but in the pine forests of Russia,
Sweden, and other northern countries, it is very common. In
these it has its habitat, feeding on the cones of the trees, and
the fruits of various kinds of plants, especially the berry of
the jumper. Black grouse is also distinguished as black-game, or
the black-cock. It is not larger than the common hen, and weighs
only about four pounds. The female is about one-third less than
the male, and also differs considerably from him in point of
colour. Like the former, they are found chiefly in high
situations, and are common in Russia, Siberia, and other
northern countries. They are also found in the northern parts of
Great Britain, feeding in winter on the various berries and
fruits belonging to mountainous countries, and, in summer,
frequently descending to the lower lands, to feed upon corn. The
red grouse, gorcock, or moor-cock, weighs about nineteen ounces,
and the female somewhat less. In the wild heathy tracts of the
northern counties of England it is plentiful, also in Wales and
the Highlands of Scotland. Mr. Pennant considered it peculiar to
Britain, those found in the mountainous parts of Spain, France,
and Italy, being only varieties of the same bird. White grouse,
white game, or ptarmigan, is nearly the same size as the red
grouse, and is found in lofty situations, where it supports
itself in the severest weather. It is to be met with in most of
the northern countries of Europe, and appears even in Greenland.
In the Hebrides, Orkneys, and the Highlands of Scotland, it is
also found; and sometimes, though rarely, among the fells of
Northumberland and Cumberland. In winter they fly in flocks, and
are so little familiar with the sight of man, that they are
easily shot, and even snared. They feed on the wild produce of
the hills, which sometimes imparts to their flesh a bitter but
not unpalatable taste. According to Buffon, it is dark-coloured,
and somewhat flavoured like the hare.
GROUSE SALAD.
(_Soyer's Recipe_.)
1026. INGREDIENTS.--8 eggs, butter, fresh salad, 1 or 2 grouse; for the
sauce, 1 teaspoonful of minced shalot, 1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar,
the yolk of 1 egg, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, 1/4 oz. of salt, 4
tablespoonfuls of oil, 2 tablespoonfuls of Chili vinegar, 1 gill of
cream.
_Mode_.--Boil the eggs hard, shell them, throw them into cold water cut
a thin slice off the bottom to facilitate the proper placing of them in
the dish, cut each one into four lengthwise, and make a very thin flat
border of butter, about one inch from the edge of the dish the salad is
to be served on; fix the pieces of egg upright close to each other, the
yolk outside, or the yolk and white alternately; lay in the centre a
fresh salad of whatever is in season, and, having previously roasted the
grouse rather underdone, cut it into eight or ten pieces, and prepare
the sauce as follows:--Put the shalots into a basin, with the sugar, the
yolk of an egg, the parsley, and salt, and mix in by degrees the oil and
vinegar; when these ingredients are well mixed, put the sauce on ice or
in a cool place. When ready to serve, whip the cream rather thick, which
lightly mix with it; then lay the inferior parts of the grouse on the
salad, sauce over so as to cover each piece, then lay over the salad and
the remainder of the grouse, pour the rest of the sauce over, and serve.
The eggs may be ornamented with a little dot of radishes or beetroot on
the point. Anchovy and gherkin, cut into small diamonds, may be placed
between, or cut gherkins in slices, and a border of them laid round.
Tarragon or chervil-leaves are also a pretty addition. The remains of
cold black-game, pheasant, or partridge may be used in the above manner,
and will make a very delicate dish.
_Average cost_, 2s. 6d.
_Seasonable_ from the 12th of August to the beginning of December.
[Illustration: THE CAPERCALZIE.]
THE CAPERCALZIE.--This bird was to be met with formerly both in
Ireland and Scotland, but is now extinct. The male lives
separate from the females, except in the breeding season. Its
manners and habits are very like those of black grouse, except
that it seems to be wholly confined to forests of pine, on the
tender shoots of which it feeds. It is by no means uncommon in
the woods of Norway, whence we received it. It is also found
abundant in Russia, Siberia, Italy, and in some portions of the
Alps. It was, in 1760, last seen in Scotland, in the woods of
Strathglass. Recent attempts have been made to re-introduce it
into that country, but without success; principally owing, as we
should imagine, to the want of sufficient food suitable for its
sustenance.
GROUSE.--Under this general term are included several species of
game birds, called black, red, woodland, and white grouse. The
black is larger than the red (see No. 1025), and is not so
common, and therefore held in higher estimation. The red,
however, is a bird of exquisite flavour, and is a native of the
mountainous districts of Scotland and the north of England. It
feeds on the tops of the heath and the berries that grow amongst
them: its colour is a rich chestnut, striped with black. The
woodland, or cock of the wood, is the largest among the bird
tribes which pass under the denomination of game. It is smaller
than the turkey, and was originally common in our mountains; but
it is now to be found only in the mountains of Scotland, though
it still abounds in the north of Europe, Germany, and in the
Alps. It is esteemed as delicious eating, and its plumage is
extremely beautiful. The white grouse, or ptarmigan, is not a
plentiful bird in Britain; but it is still found in the islands,
and weighs about half a pound. The London market is supplied by
Norway and Scotland; those from the former country being
esteemed the best. When young, it is held in high estimation,
being considered as little different from common grouse.
ROAST HARE.
1027. INGREDIENTS.--Hare, forcemeat No. 417, a little milk, butter.
_Choosing and Trussing_.--Choose a young hare; which may be known by its
smooth and sharp claws, and by the cleft in the lip not being much
spread. To be eaten in perfection, it must hang for some time; and, if
properly taken care of, it may be kept for several days. It is better to
hang without being paunched; but should it be previously emptied, wipe
the inside every day, and sprinkle over it a little pepper and ginger,
to prevent the musty taste which long keeping in the damp occasions, and
which also affects the stuffing. After it is skinned, wash it well, and
soak for an hour in warm water to draw out the blood; if old, let it lie
in vinegar for a short time, but wash it well afterwards in several
waters. Make a forcemeat by recipe No. 417, wipe the hare dry, fill the
belly with it, and sew it up. Bring the hind and fore legs close to the
body towards the head, run a skewer through each, fix the head between
the shoulders by means of another skewer, and be careful to leave the
ears on. Pat a string round the body from skewer to skewer, and tie it
above the back.
[Illustration: ROAST HARE.]
_Mode_.--The hare should be kept at a distance from the fire when it is
first laid down, or the outside will become dry and hard before the
inside is done. Baste it well with milk for a short time, and afterwards
with butter; and particular attention must be paid to the basting, so as
to preserve the meat on the back juicy and nutritive. When it is almost
roasted enough, flour the hare, and baste well with butter. When nicely
frothed, dish it, remove the skewers, and send it to table with a little
gravy in the dish, and a tureen of the same. Red-currant jelly must also
not be forgotten, as this is an indispensable accompaniment to roast
hare. For economy, good beef dripping may be substituted for the milk
and butter to baste with; but the basting, as we have before stated,
must be continued without intermission. If the liver is good, it maybe
parboiled, minced, and mixed with the stuffing; but it should not be
used unless quite fresh.--See coloured plate, E1.
_Time_.--A middling-sized hare, 1-1/4 hour; a large hare, 1-1/2 to 2
hours.
_Average cost_, from 4s. to 6s.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from September to the end of February.
THE HARE.--This little animal is found generally distributed over
Europe, and, indeed, in most parts of the northern world. Its extreme
timidity is the endowment which Providence has bestowed upon it as a
means of defence; it is therefore attentive to every sound, and is
supplied with ears both long and tubular, with which it can hear with
great acuteness. Its eyes, also, are so constructed, and placed so
prominent in its head, that it can see both before and behind it. It
lives entirely upon vegetables, but its flesh is considered dry,
notwithstanding that it is deemed, in many respects, superior to that of
the rabbit, being more savoury, and of a much higher flavour. Its
general time of feeding is the evening; but during the day, if not
disturbed, it adheres closely to its _form_.
[Illustration: THE HARE.]
POTTED HARE (a Luncheon or Breakfast Dish).
1028. INGREDIENTS.--1 hare, a few slices of bacon, a large bunch of
savoury herbs, 4 cloves, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole allspice, 2 carrots, 2
onions, salt and pepper to taste, 1 pint of water, 2 glasses of sherry.
_Mode_.--Skin, empty, and wash the hare; cut it down the middle, and put
it into a stewpan, with a few slices of bacon under and over it; add the
remaining ingredients, and stew very gently until the hare is tender,
and the flesh will separate easily from the bones. When done enough,
take it up, remove the bones, and pound the meat, _with the bacon_, in a
mortar, until reduced to a perfectly smooth paste. Should it not be
sufficiently seasoned, add a little cayenne, salt, and pounded mace, but
be careful that these are well mixed with the other ingredients. Press
the meat into potting-pots, pour over clarified butter, and keep in a
dry place. The liquor that the hare was stewed in, should be saved for
hashes, soups, &c. &c.
_Time_.--About 21/2 hours to stew the hare.
_Seasonable_ from September to the end of February.
BROILED HARE (a Supper or Luncheon Dish).
1029. INGREDIENTS.--The leg and shoulders of a roast hare, cayenne and
salt to taste, a little butter.
_Mode_.--Cut the legs and shoulders of a roast hare, season them highly
with salt and cayenne, and broil them over a very clear fire for 5
minutes. Dish them on a hot dish, rub over them a little cold butter,
and send to table very quickly.
_Time_.--5 minutes.
_Seasonable_ from September to the end of February.
HASHED HARE.
1030. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast hare, 1 blade of pounded
mace, 2 or 3 allspice, pepper and salt to taste, 1 onion, a bunch of
savoury herbs, 3 tablespoonfuls of port wine, thickening of butter and
flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup.
_Mode_.--Cut the cold hare into neat slices, and put the head, bones,
and trimmings into a stewpan, with 3/4 pint of water; add the mace,
allspice, seasoning, onion, and herbs, and stew for nearly an hour, and
strain the gravy; thicken it with butter and flour, add the wine and
ketchup, and lay in the pieces of hare, with any stuffing that may be
left. Let the whole gradually heat by the side of the fire, and, when it
has simmered for about 5 minutes, serve, and garnish the dish with
sippets of toasted bread. Send red-currant jelly to table with it.
_Time_.--Rather more than 1 hour.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold hare, 6d.
_Seasonable_ from September to the end of February.
JUGGED HARE.
(_Very Good_.)
1031. INGREDIENTS.--1 hare, 1-1/2 lb. of gravy beef, 1/2 lb. of butter,
1 onion, 1 lemon, 6 cloves; pepper, cayenne, and salt to taste; 1/2 pint
of port wine.
_Mode_.--Skin, paunch, and wash the hare, cut it into pieces, dredge
them with flour, and fry in boiling butter. Have ready 1-1/2 pint of
gravy, made from the above proportion of beef, and thickened with a
little flour. Put this into a jar; add the pieces of fried hare, an
onion stuck with six cloves, a lemon peeled and cut in half, and a good
seasoning of pepper, cayenne, and salt; cover the jar down tightly, put
it up to the neck into a stewpan of boiling water, and let it stew until
the hare is quite tender, taking care to keep the water boiling. When
nearly done, pour in the wine, and add a few forcemeat balls, made by
recipe No. 417: these must be fried or baked in the oven for a few
minutes before they are put to the gravy. Serve with red-currant jelly.
_Time_,--3-1/2 to 4 hours. If the hare is very old, allow 4-1/2 hours.
_Average cost_, 7s.
_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.
_Seasonable_ from September to the end of February.
II.
(_A Quicker and more Economical Way_.)
1032. INGREDIENTS.--1 hare, a bunch of sweet herbs, 2 onions, each stuck
with 3 cloves, 6 whole allspice, 1/2 teaspoonful of black pepper, a
strip of lemon-peel, thickening of butter and flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of
mushroom ketchup, 1/4 pint of port wine.
_Mode._--Wash the hare nicely, cut it up into joints (not too large),
and flour and brown them as in the preceding recipe; then put them into
a stewpan with the herbs, onions, cloves, allspice, pepper, and
lemon-peel; cover with hot water, and when it boils, carefully remove
all the scum, and let it simmer gently till tender, which will be in
about 1-3/4 hour, or longer, should the hare be very old. Take out the
pieces of hare, thicken the gravy with flour and butter, add the ketchup
and port wine, let it boil for about 10 minutes, strain it through a
sieve over the hare, and serve. A few fried forcemeat balls should be
added at the moment of serving, or instead of frying them, they may be
stewed in the gravy, about 10 minutes before the hare is wanted for
table. Do not omit to serve red-currant jelly with it.
_Time_.--Altogether 2 hours. _Average cost_, 5s. 6d.
_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.
_Seasonable_ from September to the end of February.
_Note_.--Should there be any left, rewarm it the next day by putting the
hare, &c. into a covered jar, and placing this jar in a saucepan of
boiling water: this method prevents a great deal of waste.
ROAST LANDRAIL, OR CORN-CRAKE.
1033. INGREDIENTS.--3 or 4 birds, butter, fried bread crumbs.
[Illustration: LANDRAILS.]
_Mode_.--Pluck and draw the birds, wipe them inside and out with damp
cloths, and truss them in the following manner:--Bring the head round
under the wing, and the thighs close to the sides; pass a skewer through
them and the body, and keep the legs straight. Roast them before a clear
fire, keep them well basted, and serve on fried bread crumbs, with a
tureen of brown gravy. When liked, bread-sauce may also be sent to table
with them.
_Time_.--12 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_,--Seldom bought.
_Sufficient_.--Allow--1 for a dish.
_Seasonable_ from August 12th to the middle of September.
[Illustration: THE LANDRAIL.]
THE LANDRAIL, OR CORN-CRAKE.--This bird is migratory in its
habits, yet from its formation, it seems ill adapted for long
aerial passages, its wings being short, and placed so forward
out of the centre of gravity, that it flies in an extremely
heavy and embarrassed manner, and with its legs hanging down.
When it alights, it can hardly be sprung a second time, as it
runs very fast, and seems to depend for its safety more on the
swiftness of its feet than the celerity of its wings. It makes
its appearance in England about the same time as the quail, that
is, in the months of April and May, and frequents the same
places. Its singular cry is first heard when the grass becomes
long enough to shelter it, and it continues to be heard until
the grass is cut. The bird, however, is seldom seen, for it
constantly skulks among the thickest portions of the herbage,
and runs so nimbly through it, doubling and winding in every
direction, that it is difficult to get near it. It leaves this
island before the winter, and repairs to other countries in
search of its food, which principally consists of slugs, large
numbers of which it destroys. It is very common in Ireland, and,
whilst migrating to this country, is seen in great numbers in
the island of Anglesea. On its first arrival in England, it is
so lean as scarcely to weigh above five or six ounces; before
its departure, however, it has been known to exceed eight
ounces, and is then most delicious eating.
TO DRESS A LEVERET.
1034. INGREDIENTS.--2 leverets, butter, flour.
_Mode_.--Leverets should be trussed in the same manner as a hare, but
they do not require stuffing. Roast them before a clear fire, and keep
them well basted all the time they are cooking. A few minutes before
serving, dredge them lightly with flour, and froth them nicely. Serve
with plain gravy in the dish, and send to table red-currant jelly with
them.
_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, in full season, 4s. each.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from May to August, but cheapest in July and August.
BROILED PARTRIDGE (a Luncheon, Breakfast, or Supper Dish).
1035. INGREDIENTS.--3 partridges, salt and cayenne to taste, a small
piece of butter, brown gravy or mushroom sauce.
_Mode_.--Pluck, draw, and cut the partridges in half, and wipe the
inside thoroughly with a damp cloth. Season them with salt and cayenne,
broil them over a very clear fire, and dish them on a hot dish; rub a
small piece of butter over each half, and send them to table with brown
gravy or mushroom sauce.
_Time_.--About 1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. to 2s. a brace.
_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.
_Seasonable_ from the 1st of September to the beginning of February.
PARTRIDGE PIE.
1036. INGREDIENTS.--3 partridges, pepper and salt to taste, 1
teaspoonful of minced parsley (when obtainable, a few mushrooms), 3/4
lb. of veal cutlet, a slice of ham, 1/2 pint of stock, puff paste.
_Mode_.--Line a pie-dish with a veal cutlet; over that place a slice of
ham and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Pluck, draw, and wipe the
partridges; cut off the legs at the first joint, and season them inside
with pepper, salt, minced parsley, and a small piece of butter; place
them in the dish, and pour over the stock; line the edges of the dish
with puff paste, cover with the same, brush it over with the yolk of an
egg, and bake for 3/4 to 1 hour.
_Time_.--3/4 to 1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. to 2s. a brace.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ from the 1st of September to the beginning of February.
Note.--Should the partridges be very large, split them in half; they
will then lie in the dish more compactly. When at hand, a few mushrooms
should always be added.
POTTED PARTRIDGE.
1037. INGREDIENTS.--Partridges; seasoning to taste of mace, allspice
white pepper, and salt; butter, coarse paste.
_Mode_.--Pluck and draw the birds, and wipe them inside with a damp
cloth. Pound well some mace, allspice, white pepper, and salt; mix
together, and rub every part of the partridges with this. Pack the birds
as closely as possible in a baking-pan, with plenty of butter over them,
and cover with a coarse flour and water crust. Tie a paper over this,
and bake for rather more than 1-1/2 hour; let the birds get cold, then
cut them into pieces for keeping, pack them closely into a large
potting-pot, and cover with clarified butter. This should be kept in a
cool dry place. The butter used for potted things will answer for
basting, or for paste for meat pies.--See coloured plate, D1.
_Time_.--1-1/2 hour.
_Seasonable_ from the 1st of September to the beginning of February.
SALMI DE PERDRIX, or HASHED PARTRIDGES.
1038. INGREDIENTS.--3 young partridges, 3 shalots, a slice of lean ham,
1 carrot, 3 or 4 mushrooms, a bunch of savoury herbs, 2 cloves, 6 whole
peppers, 3/4 pint of stock, 1 glass of sherry or Madeira, a small lump
of sugar.
_Mode_.--After the partridges are plucked and drawn, roast them rather
underdone, and cover them with paper, as they should not be browned; cut
them into joints, take off the skin from the wings, legs, and breasts;
put these into a stewpan, cover them up, and set by until the gravy is
ready. Cut a slice of ham into small pieces, and put them, with the
carrots sliced, the shalots, mushrooms, herbs, cloves, and pepper, into
a stewpan; fry them lightly in a little butter, pour in the stock, add
the bones and trimming from the partridges, and simmer for 1/4 hour.
Strain the gravy, let it cool, and skim off every particle of fat; put
it to the legs, wings, and breasts, add a glass of sherry or Madeira and
a small lump of sugar, let all gradually warm through by the side of the
fire, and when on the point of boiling, serve, and garnish the dish with
croutons. The remains of roast partridge answer very well dressed in
this way, although not so good as when the birds are in the first
instance only half-roasted. This recipe is equally suitable for
pheasants, moor-game, &c.; but care must be taken always to skin the
joints.
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