The Book of Household Management - Mrs. Isabella Beeton
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_Note_.--A small quantity of Harvey's sauce, ketchup, or port wine, may
be added to enrich the gravy: these ingredients must, however, be used
very sparingly, or they will overpower the flavour of the venison.
[Illustration: FALLOW-DEER (BUCK). FALLOW-DEER (DOE).]
THE FALLOW-DEER.--This is the domestic or park deer; and no two
animals can make a nearer approach to each other than the stag
and it, and yet no two animals keep more distinct, or avoid each
other with a more inveterate animosity. They never herd or
intermix together, and consequently never give rise to an
intermediate race; it is even rare, unless they have been
transported thither, to find fellow-deer in a country where
stags are numerous. He is very easily tamed, and feeds upon many
things which the stag refuses: he also browzes closer than the
stag, and preserves his venison better. The doe produces one
fawn, sometimes two, but rarely three. In short, they resemble
the stag in all his natural habits, and the greatest difference
between them is the duration of their lives: the stag, it is
said, lives to the age of thirty-five or forty years, and the
fallow-deer does not live more than twenty. As they are smaller
than the stag, it is probable that their growth is sooner
completed.
STEWED VENISON.
1051. INGREDIENTS.--A shoulder of venison, a few slices of mutton fat, 2
glasses of port wine, pepper and allspice to taste, 1-1/2 pint of weak
stock or gravy, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole pepper, 1/2 teaspoonful of
whole allspice.
_Mode_.--Hang the venison till tender; take out the bone, flatten the
meat with a rolling-pin, and place over it a few slices of mutton fat,
which have been previously soaked for 2 or 3 hours in port wine;
sprinkle these with a little fine allspice and pepper, roll the meat up,
and bind and tie it securely. Put it into a stewpan with the bone and
the above proportion of weak stock or gravy, whole allspice, black
pepper, and port wine; cover the lid down closely, and simmer, very
gently, from 3-1/2 to 4 hours. When quite tender, take off the tape, and
dish the meat; strain the gravy over it, and send it to table with
red-currant jelly. Unless the joint is very fat, the above is the best
mode of cooking it.
_Time_.--3-1/2 to 4 hours.
_Average cost_, 1s. 4d. to 1s. 6d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 10 or 12 persons.
_Seasonable_.--Buck venison, from June to Michaelmas; doe venison, from
November to the end of January.
[Illustration: THE ROEBUCK.]
THE ROEBUCK.--This is the _Certuscapreolus_, or common roe, and
is of a reddish-brown colour. It is an inhabitant of Asia, as
well as of Europe. It has great grace in its movements, and
stands about two feet seven inches high, and has a length of
about three feet nine. The extent of its horns is from six to
eight inches.
[Illustration: THE STAG. THE HIND.]
THE STAG.--The stag, or hart, is the male of the red deer, and
the hind is the female. He is much larger than the fallow-deer,
and his age is indicated by his horns, which are round instead
of being palmated, like those of the fallow-deer. During the
first year he has no horns, but a horny excrescence, which is
short and rough, and covered with a thin hairy skin. The next
year, the horns are single and straight; and in the third they
have two antlers, three the fourth, four the fifth, and five the
sixth year; although this number is not always certain, for
sometimes they are more, and often less. After the sixth year,
the antlers do not always increase; and, although in number they
may amount to six or seven on each side, yet the animal's age is
then estimated rather by the size of the antlers and the
thickness of the branch which sustains them, than by their
variety. Large as these horns seem, however, they are shed every
year, and their place supplied by new ones. This usually takes
place in the spring. When the old horns have fallen off, the new
ones do not make their appearance immediately; but the bones of
the skull ore seen covered with a transparent periosteum, or
skin, which enwraps the bones of all animals. After a short
time, however, the skin begins to swell, and to form a sort of
tumour. From this, by-and-by, rising from the head, shoot forth
the antlers from each side; and, in a short time, in proportion
as the animal is in condition, the entire horns are completed.
The solidity of the extremities, however, is not perfect until
the horns have arrived at their full growth. Old stags usually
shed their horns first, which generally happens towards the
latter end of February or the beginning of March. Such as are
between five and six years old shed them about the middle or
latter end of March; those still younger in the month of April;
and the youngest of all not till the middle or latter end of
May. These rules, though generally true, are subject to
variations; for a severe winter will retard the shedding of the
horns.--The HIND has no horns, and is less fitted for being
hunted than the male. She takes the greatest care of her young,
and secretes them in the most obscure thickets, lest they become
a prey to their numerous enemies. All the rapacious family of
the cat kind, with the wolf, the dog, the eagle, and the falcon,
are continually endeavouring to find her retreat, whilst the
stag himself is the foe of his own offspring. When she has
young, therefore, it would seem that the courage of the male is
transferred to the female, for she defends them with the most
resolute bravery. If pursued by the hunter, she will fly before
the hounds for half the day, and then return to her young, whose
life she has thus preserved at the hazard of her own.
[Illustration: ELAND (BULL). ELAND (COW).]
THE NEW VENISON.--The deer population of our splendid English
parks was, until a few years since, limited to two species, the
fallow and the red. But as the fallow-deer itself was an
acclimated animal, of comparatively recent introduction, it came
to be a question why might not the proprietor of any deer-park
in England have the luxury of at least half a dozen species of
deer and antelopes, to adorn the hills, dales, ferny brakes, and
rich pastures of his domain? The temperate regions of the whole
world might be made to yield specimens of the noble ruminant,
valuable either for their individual beauty, or for their
availability to gastronomic purposes.
During the last four or live years a few spirited English
noblemen have made the experiment of breeding foreign deer in
their parks, and have obtained such a decided success, that it
may be hoped their example will induce others to follow in a
course which will eventually give to England's rural scenery a
new element of beauty, and to English tables a fresh viand of
the choicest character.
A practical solution of this interesting question was made by
Viscount Hill, at Hawkestone Park, Salop, in January, 1809. On
that occasion a magnificent eland, an acclimated scion of the
species whose native home is the South African wilderness, was
killed for the table. The noble beast was thus described:--"He
weighed 1,176 lbs. as he dropped; huge as a short-horn, but with
bone not half the size; active as a deer, stately in all his
paces, perfect in form, bright in colour, with a vast dewlap,
and strong sculptured horn. This eland in his lifetime strode
majestic on the hill-side, where he dwelt with his mates and
their progeny, all English-born, like himself." Three pairs of
the same species of deer were left to roam at large on the
picturesque elopes throughout the day, and to return to their
home at pleasure. "Here, during winter, they are assisted with
roots and hay, but in summer they have nothing but the pasture
of the park; so that, in point of expense, they cost no more
than cattle of the best description." Travellers and sportsmen
say that the male eland is unapproached in the quality of his
flesh by any ruminant in South Africa; that it grows to an
enormous size, and lays on fat with as great facility as a true
short-horn; while in texture and flavour it is infinitely
superior. The lean is remarkably fine, the fat firm and
delicate. It was tried in every fashion,--braised brisket,
roasted ribs, broiled steaks, filet saute, boiled aitchbone,
&c.,--and in all, gave evidence of the fact, that a new meat of
surpassing value had been added to the products of the English
park.
When we hear such a gratifying account of the eland, it is
pleasing to record that Lord Hastings has a herd of the Canadian
wapiti, a herd of Indian nylghaus, and another of the small
Indian hog-deer; that the Earl of Ducie has been successful in
breeding the magnificent Persian deer. The eland was first
acclimated in England by the late Earl of Derby, between the
years 1835-1851, at his menagerie at Knowsley. On his death, in
1851, he bequeathed to the Zoological Society his breed of
elands, consisting of two males and three females. Here the
animals have been treated with the greatest success, and from
the year 1853 to the present time, the females have regularly
reproduced, without the loss of a single calf.
ROAST WIDGEON.
1052. INGREDIENTS.--Widgeons, a little flour, butter.
_Mode_.--These are trussed in the same manner as wild duck, No. 1022,
but must not be kept so long before they are dressed. Put them down to a
brisk fire; flour, and baste them continually with butter, and, when
browned and nicely frothed, send them to table hot and quickly. Serve
with brown gravy, or orange gravy, No. 488, and a cut lemon.
_Time_.--1/4 hour; if liked well done, 20 minutes.
_Average cost_, 1s. each; but seldom bought.
_Sufficient_,--2 for a dish.
_Seasonable_ from October to February.
[Illustration: ROAST WOODCOCK.]
ROAST WOODCOCK.
1053. INGREDIENTS.--Woodcocks; butter, flour, toast.
_Mode_.--Woodcocks should not be drawn, as the trails are, by epicures,
considered a great delicacy. Pluck, and wipe them well outside; truss
them with the legs close to the body, and the feet pressing upon the
thighs; skin the neck and head, and bring the beak round under the wing.
Place some slices of toast in the dripping-pan to catch the trails,
allowing a piece of toast for each bird. Roast before a clear fire from
15 to 25 minutes; keep them well basted, and flour and froth them
nicely. When done, dish the pieces of toast with the birds upon them,
and pour round a very little gravy; send some more to table in a tureen.
These are most delicious birds when well cooked, but they should not be
kept too long: when the feathers drop, or easily come out, they are fit
for table.--See coloured plate, I 1.
_Time_.---When liked underdone, 15 to 20 minutes; if liked well done,
allow an extra 5 minutes.
_Average cost_.--Seldom bought.
_Sufficient_,--2 for a dish.
_Seasonable_ from November to February.
[Illustration: THE WOODCOCK.]
THE WOODCOCK.--This bird being migratory in its habits, has,
consequently, no settled habitation; it cannot be considered as
the property of any one, and is, therefore, not game by law. It
breeds in high northern latitudes, and the time of its
appearance and disappearance in Sweden coincides exactly with
that of its arrival in and return from Great Britain. On the
coast of Suffolk its vernal and autumnal visits have been
accurately observed. In the first week of October it makes its
appearance in small numbers, but in November and December it
appears in larger numbers, and always after sunset, and most
gregariously. In the same manner as woodcocks take their leave
of us, they quit France, Germany, and Italy, making the northern
and colder climates their summer rendezvous. They visit Burgundy
in the latter part of October, but continue there only a few
weeks, the country being hard, and unable to supply them with
such sustenance as they require. In the winter, they are found
as far south as Smyrna and Aleppo, and, during the same season,
in Barbary, where the Africans name them "the ass of the
partridge." It has been asserted that they have been seen as far
south as Egypt, which is the most remote region to which they
can be traced on that side of the eastern world; on the other
side, they are common in Japan. Those which resort to the
countries of the Levant are supposed to come from the mountains
of Armenia, or the deserts of Tartary or Siberia. The flesh of
the woodcock is held in high estimation; hence the bird is
eagerly sought after by the sportsman.
GAME CARVING.
BLACKCOCK.
[Illustration: BLACKCOCK.]
1054. Skilful carving of game undoubtedly adds to the pleasure of the
guests at a dinner-table; for game seems pre-eminently to be composed of
such delicate limbs and tender flesh that an inapt practitioner appears
to more disadvantage when mauling these pretty and favourite dishes,
than larger and more robust _pieces de resistance_. As described at
recipe No. 1019, this bird is variously served with or without the head
on; and although we do not personally object to the appearance of the
head as shown in the woodcut, yet it seems to be more in vogue to serve
it without. The carving is not difficult, but should be elegantly and
deftly done. Slices from the breast, cut in the direction of the dotted
line from 2 to 1, should be taken off, the merrythought displaced and
the leg and wing removed by running the knife along from 3 to 4, and
following the directions given under the head of boiled fowl, No. 1000,
reserving the thigh, which is considered a great delicacy, for the most
honoured guests, some of whom may also esteem the brains of this bird.
WILD DUCK.
[Illustration: WILD DUCK.]
1055. As game is almost universally served as a dainty, and not as a
dish to stand the assaults of an altogether fresh appetite, these dishes
are not usually cut up entirely, but only those parts are served of
each, which are considered the best-flavoured and the primest. Of
wild-fowl, the breast alone is considered by epicures worth eating, and
slices are cut from this, in the direction indicated by the lines, from
1 to 2; if necessary, the leg and wing can be taken off by passing the
knife from 3 to 4, and by generally following the directions described
for carving boiled fowl, No. 1000.
ROAST HARE.
[Illustration: ROAST HARE.]
1056. The "Grand Carver" of olden times, a functionary of no ordinary
dignity, was pleased when he had a hare to manipulate, for his skill and
grace had an opportunity of display. _Diners a la Russe_ may possibly,
erewhile, save modern gentlemen the necessity of learning the art which
was in auld lang syne one of the necessary accomplishments of the
youthful squire; but, until side-tables become universal, or till we see
the office of "grand carver" once more instituted, it will be well for
all to learn how to assist at the carving of this dish, which, if not
the most elegant in appearance, is a very general favourite. The hare,
having its head to the left, as shown in the woodcut, should be first
served by cutting slices from each side of the backbone, in the
direction of the lines from 3 to 4. After these prime parts are disposed
of, the leg should next be disengaged by cutting round the line
indicated by the figures 5 to 6. The shoulders will then be taken off by
passing the knife round from 7 to 8. The back of the hare should now be
divided by cutting quite through its spine, as shown by the line 1 to 2,
taking care to feel with the point of the knife for a joint where the
back may be readily penetrated. It is the usual plan not to serve any
bone in helping hare; and thus the flesh should be sliced from the legs
and placed alone on the plate. In large establishments, and where
men-cooks are kept, it is often the case that the backbone of the hare,
especially in old animals, is taken out, and then the process of carving
is, of course, considerably facilitated. A great point to be remembered
in connection with carving hare is, that plenty of gravy should
accompany each helping; otherwise this dish, which is naturally dry,
will lose half its flavour, and so become a failure. Stuffing is also
served with it; and the ears, which should be nicely crisp, and the
brains of the hare, are esteemed as delicacies by many connoisseurs.
PARTRIDGES.
[Illustration: ROAST PARTRIDGES.]
1057. There are several ways of carving this most familiar game bird.
The more usual and summary mode is to carry the knife sharply along the
top of the breastbone of the bird, and cut it quite through, thus
dividing it into two precisely equal and similar parts, in the same
manner as carving a pigeon, No. 1003. Another plan is to cut it into
three pieces; viz., by severing a small wing and leg on either side from
the body, by following the line 1 to 2 in the upper woodcut; thus making
2 helpings, when the breast will remain for a third plate. The most
elegant manner is that of thrusting back the body from the legs, and
then cutting through the breast in the direction shown by the line 1 to
2: this plan will give 4 or more small helpings. A little bread-sauce
should be served to each guest.
GROUSE.
[Illustration]
1058. GROUSE may be carved in the way first described in carving
partridge. The backbone of the grouse is highly esteemed by many, and
this part of many game birds is considered the finest flavoured.
PHEASANT.
[Illustration: ROAST PHEASANT.]
1059. Fixing the fork in the breast, let the carver cut slices from it
in the direction of the lines from 2 to 1: these are the prime pieces.
If there be more guests to satisfy than these slices will serve, then
let the legs and wings be disengaged in the same manner as described in
carving boiled fowl, No. 1000, the point where the wing joins the
neckbone being carefully found. The merrythought will come off in the
same way as that of a fowl. The most valued parts are the same as those
which are most considered in a fowl.
SNIPE.
[Illustration: SNIPE.]
1060. One of these small but delicious birds may be given, whole, to a
gentleman; but, in helping a lady, it will be better to cut them quite
through the centre, from 1 to 2, completely dividing them into equal and
like portions, and put only one half on the plate.
HAUNCH OF VENISON.
[Illustration: HAUNCH OF VENISON.]
1061. Here is a grand dish for a knight of the carving-knife to exercise
his skill upon, and, what will be pleasant for many to know, there is
but little difficulty in the performance. An incision being made
completely down to the bone, in the direction of the line 1 to 2, the
gravy will then be able easily to flow; when slices, not too thick,
should be cut along the haunch, as indicated by the line 4 to 3; that
end of the joint marked 3 having been turned towards the carver, so that
he may have a more complete command over the joint. Although some
epicures affect to believe that some parts of the haunch are superior to
others, yet we doubt if there is any difference between the slices cut
above and below the line. It should be borne in mind to serve each guest
with a portion of fat; and the most expeditious carver will be the best
carver, as, like mutton, venison soon begins to chill, when it loses
much of its charm.
WOODCOCK.
[Illustration: WOODCOCK.]
1062. This bird, like a partridge, may be carved by cutting it exactly
into two like portions, or made into three helpings, as described in
carving partridge (No. 1057). The backbone is considered the tit-bit of
a woodcock, and by many the thigh is also thought a great delicacy. This
bird is served in the manner advised by Brillat Savarin, in connection
with the pheasant, viz., on toast which has received its drippings
whilst roasting; and a piece of this toast should invariably accompany
each plate.
LANDRAIL.
1063. LANDRAIL, being trussed like Snipe, with the exception of its
being drawn, may be carved in the same manner.--See No. 1060.
PTARMIGAN.
1064. PTARMIGAN, being of much the same size, and trussed in the same
manner, as the red-bird, may be carved in the manner described in
Partridge and Grouse carving, Nos. 1057 and 1058.
QUAILS.
1065. QUAILS, being trussed and served like Woodcock, may be similarly
carved.--See No. 1062.
PLOVERS.
1066. PLOVERS may be carved like Quails or Woodcock, being trussed and
served in the same way as those birds.--See No. 1055.
TEAL.
1067. TEAL, being of the same character as Widgeon and Wild Duck, may be
treated, in carving, in the same style.
WIDGEON.
1068. WIDGEON may be carved in the same way as described in regard to
Wild Duck, at No. 1055.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
CHAPTER XXIV.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON VEGETABLES.
"Strange there should be found
Who, self-imprison'd in their proud saloons,
Renounce the odours of the open field
For the unscented fictions of the loom;
Who, satisfied with only pencilled scenes,
Prefer to the performance of a God,
Th' inferior wonders of an artist's hand!
Lovely, indeed, the mimic works of art,
But Nature's works far lovelier."--COWPER.
1069. "THE ANIMAL AND VEGETABLE KINGDOMS," says Hogg, in his Natural
History of the Vegetable Kingdom, "may be aptly compared to the primary
colours of the prismatic spectrum, which are so gradually and intimately
blended, that we fail to discover where the one terminates and where the
other begins. If we had to deal with yellow and blue only, the eye would
easily distinguish the one from the other; but when the two are blended,
and form green, we cannot tell where the blue ends and the yellow
begins. And so it is in the animal and vegetable kingdoms. If our powers
of observation were limited to the highest orders of animals and plants,
if there were only mammals, birds, reptiles, fishes, and insects in the
one, and trees, shrubs, and herbs in the other, we should then be able
with facility to define the bounds of the two kingdoms; but as we
descend the scale of each, and arrive at the lowest forms of animals and
plants, we there meet with bodies of the simplest structure, sometimes a
mere cell, whose organization, modes of development and reproduction,
are so anomalous, and partake so much of the character of both, that we
cannot distinguish whether they are plants or whether they are animals."
1070. WHILST IT IS DIFFICULT TO DETERMINE where the animal begins and
the vegetable ends, it is as difficult to account for many of the
singularities by which numbers of plants are characterized. This,
however, can hardly be regarded as a matter of surprise, when we
recollect that, so far as it is at present known, the vegetable kingdom
is composed of upwards of 92,000 species of plants. Of this amazing
number the lichens and the mosses are of the simplest and hardiest
kinds. These, indeed, may be considered as the very creators of the
soil: they thrive in the coldest and most sterile regions, many of them
commencing the operations of nature in the growth of vegetables on the
barest rocks, and receiving no other nourishment than such as may be
supplied to them by the simple elements of air and rain. When they have
exhausted their period in such situations as have been assigned them,
they pass into a state of decay, and become changed into a very fine
mould, which, in the active spontaneity of nature, immediately begins to
produce other species, which in their turn become food for various
mosses, and also rot. This process of growth and decay, being, from time
to time, continued, by-and-by forms a soil sufficient for the
maintenance of larger plants, which also die and decay, and so increase
the soil, until it becomes deep enough to sustain an oak, or even the
weight of a tropical forest. To create soil amongst rocks, however, must
not be considered as the only end of the lichen; different kinds of it
minister to the elegant arts, in the form of beautiful dyes; thus the
_lichen rocella_ is used to communicate to silk and wool, various shades
of purple and crimson, which greatly enhance the value of these
materials. This species is chiefly imported from the Canary Islands,
and, when scarce, as an article of commerce has brought as much as L1000
per ton.
1071. IN THE VICINITY OF LICHENS, THE MUSCI, OR MOSSES, are generally to
be found. Indeed, wherever vegetation can be sustained, there they are,
affording protection to the roots and seeds of more delicate vegetables,
and, by their spongy texture, retaining a moisture which preserves other
plants from the withering drought of summer. But even in winter we find
them enlivening, by their verdure, the cold bosom of Nature. We see them
abounding in our pastures and our woods, attaching themselves to the
living, and still more abundantly to the dead, trunks and branches of
trees. In marshy places they also abound, and become the medium of their
conversion into fruitful fields. This is exemplified by the manner in
which peat-mosses are formed: on the surface of these we find them in a
state of great life and vigour; immediately below we discover them, more
or less, in a state of decomposition; and, still deeper, we find their
stems and branches consolidated into a light brown peat. Thus are
extensive tracts formed, ultimately to be brought into a state of
cultivation, and rendered subservient to the wants of man.
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