The Book of Household Management - Mrs. Isabella Beeton
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ASPARAGUS PEAS.
(Entremets, or to be served as a Side-dish with the Second Course.)
1088. INGREDIENTS.--100 heads of asparagus, 2 oz. of butter, a small
bunch of parsley, 2 or 3 green onions, flour, 1 lump of sugar, the yolks
of 2 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, salt.
_Mode_.--Carefully scrape the asparagus, cut it into pieces of an equal
size, avoiding that which is in the least hard or tough, and throw them
into cold water. Then boil the asparagus in salt and water until
three-parts done; take it out, drain, and place it on a cloth to dry the
moisture away from it. Put it into a stewpan with the butter, parsley,
and onions, and shake over a brisk fire for 10 minutes. Dredge in a
little flour, add the sugar, and moisten with boiling water. When boiled
a short time and reduced, take out the parsley and onions, thicken with
the yolks of 2 eggs beaten with the cream; add a seasoning of salt, and,
when the whole is on the point of simmering, serve. Make the sauce
sufficiently thick to adhere to the vegetable.
_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. a pint.
_Seasonable_ in May, June, and July.
MEDICINAL USES OF ASPARAGUS.--This plant not only acts as a
wholesome and nutritious vegetable, but also as a diuretic,
aperient, and deobstruent. The chemical analysis of its juice
discovers its composition to be a peculiar crystallizable
principle, called asparagin, albumen, mannite, malic acid, and
some salts. Thours says, the cellular tissue contains a
substance similar to sage. The berries are capable of undergoing
vinous fermentation, and affording alcohol by distillation. In
their unripe state they possess the same properties as the
roots, and probably in a much higher degree.
ASPARAGUS PUDDING.
(A delicious Dish, to be served with the Second Course.)
1089. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of asparagus peas, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls
of flour, 1 tablespoonful of _very finely_ minced ham, 1 oz. of butter,
pepper and salt to taste, milk.
_Mode_.--Cut up the nice green tender parts of asparagus, about the size
of peas; put them into a basin with the eggs, which should be well
beaten, and the flour, ham, butter, pepper, and salt. Mix all these
ingredients well together, and moisten with sufficient milk to make the
pudding of the consistency of thick batter; put it into a pint buttered
mould, tie it down tightly with a floured cloth, place it in _boiling
water_, and let it boil for 2 hours; turn it out of the mould on to a
hot dish, and pour plain melted butter _round_, but not over, the
pudding. Green peas pudding may be made in exactly the same manner,
substituting peas for the asparagus.
_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. per pint.
_Seasonable_ in May, June, and July.
BOILED FRENCH BEANS.
1090. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt, a very small piece of soda.
[Illustration: Scarlet Runner.]
_Mode_.--This vegetable should always be eaten young, as, when allowed
to grow too long, it tastes stringy and tough when cooked. Cut off the
heads and tails, and a thin strip on each side of the beans, to remove
the strings. Then divide each bean into 4 or 6 pieces, according to
size, cutting them lengthways in a slanting direction, and, as they are
cut, put them into cold water, with a small quantity of salt dissolved
in it. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, with salt and soda in the
above proportion; put in the beans, keep them boiling quickly, with the
lid uncovered, and be careful that they do not get smoked. When tender,
which may be ascertained by their sinking to the bottom of the saucepan,
take them up, throw them into a colander; and when drained, dish and
serve with plain melted butter. When very young, beans are sometimes
served whole: when they are thus dressed, their colour and flavour are
much better preserved; but the more general way of dressing them is to
cut them into thin strips.
_Time_.--Very young beans, 10 to 12 minutes; moderate size, 15 to 20
minutes, after the water boils.
_Average cost_, in full season, 1s. 4d. a peck; but, when forced, very
expensive.
_Sufficient_.--Allow 1/2 peck for 6 or 7 persons.
_Seasonable_ from the middle of July to the end of September; but may be
had, forced, from February to the beginning of June.
FRENCH MODE OF COOKING FRENCH BEANS.
1091. INGREDIENTS.--A quart of French beans, 3 oz. of fresh butter,
pepper and salt to taste, the juice of 1/2 lemon.
_Mode_.--Cut and boil the beans by the preceding recipe, and when
tender, put them into a stewpan, and shake over the fire, to dry away
the moisture from the beans. When quite dry and hot, add the butter,
pepper, salt, and lemon-juice; keep moving the stewpan, without using a
spoon, as that would break the beans; and when the butter is melted, and
all is thoroughly hot, serve. If the butter should not mix well, add a
tablespoonful of gravy, and serve very quickly.
_Time_.--About 1/4 hour to boil the beans; 10 minutes to shake them over
the fire.
_Average cost_, in full season, about 1s. 4d. a peck.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ from the middle of July to the end of September.
BOILED BROAD OR WINDSOR BEANS.
1092. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water, allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt; beans.
[Illustration: BROAD BEAN.]
_Mode_.--This is a favourite vegetable with many persons, but to be
nice, should be young and freshly gathered. After shelling the beans,
put them into _boiling_ water, salted in the above proportion, and let
them boil rapidly until tender. Drain them well in a colander; dish, and
serve with them separately a tureen of parsley and butter. Boiled bacon
should always accompany this vegetable, but the beans should be cooked
separately. It is usually served with the beans laid round, and the
parsley and butter in a tureen. Beans also make an excellent garnish to
a ham, and when used for this purpose, if very old, should have their
skins removed.
_Time_.--Very young beans, 15 minutes; when of a moderate size, 20 to 25
minutes, or longer.
_Average cost_, unshelled, 6d. per peck.
_Sufficient_.--Allow one peck for 6 or 7 persons.
_Seasonable_ in July and August.
NUTRITIVE PROPERTIES OF THE BEAN.--The produce of beans in meal
is, like that of peas, more in proportion to the grain than in
any of the cereal grasses. A bushel of beans is supposed to
yield fourteen pounds more of flour than a bushel of oats; and a
bushel of peas eighteen pounds more, or, according to some,
twenty pounds. A thousand parts of bean flour were found by Sir
II. Davy to yield 570 parts of nutritive matter, of which 426
were mucilage or starch, 103 gluten, and 41 extract, or matter
rendered insoluble during the process.
BROAD BEANS A LA POULETTE.
1093. INGREDIENTS.--2 pints of broad beans, 1/2 pint of stock or broth,
a small bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley, a small lump of
sugar, the yolk of 1 egg, 1/4 pint of cream, pepper and salt to taste.
_Mode_.--Procure some young and freshly-gathered beans, and shell
sufficient to make 2 pints; boil them, as in the preceding recipe, until
nearly done; then drain them and put them into a stewpan, with the
stock, finely-minced herbs, and sugar. Stew the beans until perfectly
tender, and the liquor has dried away a little; then beat up the yolk of
an egg with the cream, add this to the beans, let the whole get
thoroughly hot, and when on the point of simmering, serve. Should the
beans be very large, the skin should be removed previously to boiling
them.
_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the beans, 15 minutes to stew them in the
stock.
_Average cost_, unshelled, 6d. per peck.
_Seasonable_ in July and August.
ORIGIN AND VARIETIES OF THE BEAN.--This valuable plant is said
to be a native of Egypt, but, like other plants which have been
domesticated, its origin is uncertain. It has been cultivated in
Europe and Asia from time immemorial, and has been long known in
Britain. Its varieties may be included under two general
heads,--the white, or garden beans, and the grey, or field
beans, of the former, sown in the fields, the mazagan and
long-pod are almost the only sorts; of the latter, those known
as the horse-bean, the small or ticks, and the prolific of
Heligoland, are the principal sorts. New varieties are procured
in the same manner as in other plants.
BOILED BEETROOT.
1094. INGREDIENTS,--Beetroot; boiling water.
_Mode_.--When large, young, and juicy, this vegetable makes a very
excellent addition to winter salads, and may easily be converted into an
economical and quickly-made pickle. (_See_ No. 369.) Beetroot is more
frequently served cold than hot: when the latter mode is preferred,
melted butter should be sent to table with it. It may also be stewed
with button onions, or boiled and served with roasted onions. Wash the
beets thoroughly; but do not prick or break the skin before they are
cooked, or they would lose their beautiful colour in boiling. Put them
into boiling water, and let them boil until tender, keeping them well
covered. If to be served hot, remove the peel quickly, cut the beetroot
into thick slices, and send to table melted butter. For salads, pickle,
&c., let the root cool, then peel, and cut it into slices.
_Time_.--Small beetroot, 1-1/2 to 2 hours; large, 2-1/2 to 3 hours.
_Average cost_, in full season, 2d. each.
_Seasonable_.--May be had at any time.
[Illustration: BEETROOT.]
BEETROOT.--The geographical distribution of the order Saltworts
(_Salxolaceae_), to which beetroot belongs, is most common in
extra-tropical and temperate regions, where they are common
weeds, frequenting waste places, among rubbish, and on marshes
by the seashore. In the tropics they are rare. They are
characterized by the large quantities of mucilage, sugar,
starch, and alkaline salts which are found in them. Many of them
are used as potherbs, and some are emetic and vermifuge in their
medicinal properties. The _root_ of _garden_ or red beet is
exceedingly wholesome and nutritious, and Dr. Lyon Playfair has
recommended that a good brown bread may be made by rasping down
this root with an equal quantity of flour. He says that the
average quality of flour contains about 12 per cent. of azotized
principles adapted for the formation of flesh, and the average
quality of beet contains about 2 per cent. of the same
materials.
BOILED BROCOLI.
1095. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt; brocoli.
[Illustration: BOILED BROCOLI.]
_Mode_.--Strip off the dead outside leaves, and the inside ones cut off
level with the flower; cut off the stalk close at the bottom, and put
the brocoli into cold salt and water, with the heads downwards. When
they have remained in this for about 3/4 hour, and they are _perfectly_
free from insects, put them into a saucepan of _boiling_ water, salted
in the above proportion, and keep them boiling quickly over a brisk
fire, with the saucepan uncovered. Take them up with a slice the moment
they are done; drain them well, and serve with a tureen of melted
butter, a _little_ of which should be poured over the brocoli. If left
in the water after it is done, it will break, its colour will be
spoiled, and its crispness gone.
_Time_.--Small brocoli, 10 to 15 minutes; large one, 20 to 25 minutes.
_Average cost_, 2d. each.
_Sufficient_,--2 for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ from October to March; plentiful in February and March.
[Illustration: BROCOLI.]
THE KOHL-RABI, OR TURNIP-CABBAGE.--This variety presents a
singular development, inasmuch as the stem swells out like a
large turnip on the surface of the ground, the leaves shooting
from it all round, and the top being surmounted by a cluster of
leaves issuing from it. Although not generally grown as a garden
vegetable, if used when young and tender, it is wholesome,
nutritious, and very palatable.
BOILED BRUSSELS SPROUTS.
1096. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt; a _very small_ piece of soda.
_Mode_.--Clean the sprouts from insects, nicely wash them, and pick off
any dead or discoloured leaves from the outsides; put them into a
saucepan of _boiling_ water, with salt and soda in the above proportion;
keep the pan uncovered, and let them boil quickly over a brisk fire
until tender; drain, dish, and serve with a tureen of melted butter, or
with a maitre d'hotel sauce poured over them. Another mode of serving
is, when they are dished, to stir in about 1-1/2 oz. of butter and a
seasoning of pepper and salt. They must, however, be sent to table very
quickly, as, being so very small, this vegetable soon cools. Where the
cook is very expeditious, this vegetable, when cooked, may be arranged
on the dish in the form of a pineapple, and, so served, has a very
pretty appearance.
_Time_.--From 9 to 12 minutes after the water boils.
_Average cost_, 1s. 4d. per peck.
_Sufficient_.--Allow between 40 and 50 for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from November to March.
SAVOYS AND BRUSSELS SPROUTS.--When the Green Kale, or Borecole,
has been advanced a step further in the path of improvement, it
assumes the headed or hearting character, with blistered leaves;
it is then known by the name of Savoys and Brussels Sprouts.
Another of its headed forms, but with smooth glaucous leaves, is
the cultivated Cabbage of our gardens (the _Borecole oleracea
capitula_ of science); and all its varieties of green, red,
dwarf, tall, early, late, round, conical, flat, and all the
forms into which it is possible to put it.
TO BOIL YOUNG GREENS OR SPROUTS.
1097. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt; a _very small_ piece of soda.
[Illustration: BRUSSELS SPROUTS.]
_Mode_.--Pick away all the dead leaves, and wash the greens well in cold
water; drain them in a colander, and put them into fast-boiling water,
with salt and soda in the above proportion. Keep them boiling quickly,
with the lid uncovered, until tender; and the moment they are done, take
them up, or their colour will be spoiled; when well drained, serve. The
great art in cooking greens properly, and to have them a good colour, is
to put them into _plenty_ of _fast-boiling_ water, to let them boil very
quickly, and to take them up the moment they become tender.
_Time_.--Brocoli sprouts, 10 to 12 minutes; young greens, 10 to 12
minutes; sprouts, 12 minutes, after the water boils.
_Seasonable_.--Sprouts of various kinds may be had all the year.
GREEN KALE, OR BORECOLE.--When Colewort, or Wild Cabbage, is
brought into a state of cultivation, its character becomes
greatly improved, although it still retains the loose open
leaves, and in this form it is called Green Kale, or Borecole.
The scientific name is _Borecole oleracea acephala_, and of it
there are many varieties, both as regards the form and colour of
the leaves, as well as the height which the plants attain. We
may observe, that among them, are included the Thousand-headed,
and the Cow or Tree Cabbage.
BOILED CABBAGE.
1098. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt; a _very small_ piece of soda. _Mode_.--Pick off
all the dead outside leaves, cut off as much of the stalk as possible,
and cut the cabbages across twice, at the stalk end; if they should be
very large, quarter them. Wash them well in cold water, place them in a
colander, and drain; then put them into _plenty_ of _fast-boiling_
water, to which have been added salt and soda in the above proportions.
Stir them down once or twice in the water, keep the pan uncovered, and
let them boil quickly until tender. The instant they are done, take them
up into a colander, place a plate over them, let them thoroughly drain,
dish, and serve.
_Time_.--Large cabbages, or savoys, 1/3 to 3/4 hour, young summer
cabbage, 10 to 12 minutes, after the water boils.
_Average cost_, 2d. each in full season.
_Sufficient_,--2 large ones for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_.--Cabbages and sprouts of various kinds at any time.
THE CABBAGE TRIBE: THEIR ORIGIN.--Of all the tribes of the
_Cruciferae_ this is by far the most important. Its scientific
name is _Brassiceae_, and it contains a collection of plants
which, both in themselves and their products, occupy a prominent
position in agriculture, commerce, and domestic economy. On the
cliffs of Dover, and in many places on the coasts of
Dorsetshire, Cornwall, and Yorkshire, there grows a wild plant,
with variously-indented, much-waved, and loose spreading leaves,
of a sea-green colour, and large yellow flowers. In spring, the
leaves of this plant are collected by the inhabitants, who,
after boiling them in two waters, to remove the saltness, use
them as a vegetable along with their meat. This is the _Brassica
oleracea_ of science, the Wild Cabbage, or Colewort, from which
have originated all the varieties of Cabbage, Cauliflower,
Greens, and Brocoli.
STEWED RED CABBAGE.
1099. INGREDIENTS.--1 red cabbage, a small slice of ham, 1/2 oz. of
fresh butter, 1 pint of weak stock or broth, 1 gill of vinegar, salt and
pepper to taste, 1 tablespoonful of pounded sugar.
_Mode_.--Cut the cabbage into very thin slices, put it into a stewpan,
with the ham cut in dice, the butter, 1/2 pint of stock, and the
vinegar; cover the pan closely, and let it stew for 1 hour. When it is
very tender, add the remainder of the stock, a seasoning of salt and
pepper, and the pounded sugar; mix all well together, stir over the fire
until nearly all the liquor is dried away, and serve. Fried sausages are
usually sent to table with this dish: they should be laid round and on
the cabbage, as a garnish.
_Time_.--Rather more than 1 hour. _Average cost_, 4d. each.
_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.
_Seasonable_ from September to January.
THE WILD CABBAGE, OR COLEWORT.--This plant, as it is found on
the sea-cliffs of England, presents us with the origin of the
cabbage tribe in its simplest and normal form. In this state it
is the true Collet, or Colewort, although the name is now
applied to any young cabbage which has a loose and open heart.
BOILED CARROTS.
1100. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water, allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt; carrots.
_Mode_.--Cut off the green tops, wash and scrape the carrots, and should
there be any black specks, remove them. If very large, cut them in
halves, divide them lengthwise into four pieces, and put them into
boiling water, salted in the above proportion; let them boil until
tender, which may be ascertained by thrusting a fork into them: dish,
and serve very hot. This vegetable is an indispensable accompaniment to
boiled beef. When thus served, it is usually boiled with the beef; a few
carrots are placed round the dish as a garnish, and the remainder sent
to table in a vegetable-dish. Young carrots do not require nearly so
much boiling, nor should they be divided: these make a nice addition to
stewed veal, &c.
_Time_.--Large carrots, 1-3/4 to 2-1/4 hours; young ones, about 1/2
hour.
_Average cost_, 6d. to 8d, per bunch of 18.
_Sufficient_,--4 large carrots for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_.--Young carrots from April to June, old ones at any time.
[Illustration: CARROTS.]
ORIGIN OF THE CARROT.--In its wild state, this vegetable is
found plentifully in Britain, both in cultivated lands and by
waysides, and is known by the name of birds-nest, from its
umbels of fruit becoming incurved from a hollow cup, like a
birds-nest. In this state its root is whitish, slender, and
hard, with an acrid, disagreeable taste, and a strong aromatic
smell, and was formerly used as an aperient. When cultivated, it
is reddish, thick, fleshy, with a pleasant odour, and a
peculiar, sweet, mucilaginous taste. The carrot is said by
naturalists not to contain much nourishing matter, and,
generally speaking, is somewhat difficult of digestion.
TO DRESS CARROTS IN THE GERMAN WAY.
1101. INGREDIENTS.--8 large carrots, 3 oz. of butter, salt to taste, a
very little grated nutmeg, 1 tablespoonful of finely-minced parsley, 1
dessertspoonful of minced onion, rather more than 1 pint of weak stock
or broth, 1 tablespoonful of flour.
_Mode_.--Wash and scrape the carrots, and cut them into rings of about
1/4 inch in thickness. Put the butter into a stewpan; when it is melted,
lay in the carrots, with salt, nutmeg, parsley, and onion in the above
proportions. Toss the stewpan over the fire for a few minutes, and when
the carrots are well saturated with the butter, pour in the stock, and
simmer gently until they are nearly tender. Then put into another
stewpan a small piece of butter; dredge in about a tablespoonful of
flour; stir this over the fire, and when of a nice brown colour, add the
liquor that the carrots have been boiling in; let this just boil up,
pour it over the carrots in the other stewpan, and let them finish
simmering until quite tender. Serve very hot.
This vegetable, dressed as above, is a favourite accompaniment of roast
pork, sausages, &c. &c.
_Time_.--About 3/4 hour. Average cost, 6d. to 8d. per bunch of 18.
_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.
_Seasonable_.--Young carrots from April to June, old ones at any time.
CONSTITUENTS OF THE CARROT.--These are crystallizable and
uncrystallizable sugar, a little starch, extractive, gluten,
albumen, volatile oil, vegetable jelly, or pectin, saline
matter, malic acid, and a peculiar crystallizable ruby-red
neuter principle, without odour or taste, called carotin. This
vegetable jelly, or pectin, so named from its singular property
of gelatinizing, is considered by some as another form of gum or
mucilage, combined with vegetable acid. It exists more or less
in all vegetables, and is especially abundant in those roots and
fruits from which jellies are prepared.
STEWED CARROTS.
1102. INGREDIENTS.--7 or 8 large carrots, 1 teacupful of broth, pepper
and salt to taste, 1/2 teacupful of cream, thickening of butter and
flour.
_Mode_.--Scrape the carrots nicely; half-boil, and slice them into a
stewpan; add the broth, pepper and salt, and cream; simmer till tender,
and be careful the carrots are not broken. A few minutes before serving,
mix a little flour with about 1 oz. of butter; thicken the gravy with
this; let it just boil up, and serve.
_Time_.--About 3/4 hour to parboil the carrots, about 20 minutes to cook
them after they are sliced.
_Average cost_, 6d. to 8d. per bunch of 18.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_.--Young carrots from April to June, old ones at any time.
NUTRITIVE PROPERTIES OF THE CARROT.--Sir H. Davy ascertained the
nutritive matter of the carrot to amount to ninety-eight parts
in one thousand; of which ninety-five are sugar and three are
starch. It is used in winter and spring in the dairy to give
colour and flavour to butter; and it is excellent in stews,
haricots, soups, and, when boiled whole, with salt beef. In the
distillery, owing to the great proportion of sugar in its
composition, it yields more spirit than the potato. The usual
quantity is twelve gallons per ton.
SLICED CARROTS.
(Entremets, or to be served with the Second Course, as a Side-dish.)
1103. INGREDIENTS.--5 or 6 large carrots, a large lump of sugar, 1 pint
of weak stock, 3 oz. of fresh butter, salt to taste.
_Mode_.--Scrape and wash the carrots, cut them into slices of an equal
size, and boil them in salt and water, until half done; drain them well,
put them into a stewpan with the sugar and stock, and let them boil over
a brisk fire. When reduced to a glaze, add the fresh butter and a
seasoning of salt; shake the stewpan about well, and when the butter is
well mixed with the carrots, serve. There should be no sauce in the dish
when it comes to table, but it should all adhere to the carrots.
_Time_.--Altogether, 3/4 hour.
_Average cost_, 6d. to 8d. per bunch of 18.
_Sufficient_ for 1 dish.
_Seasonable_.--Young carrots from April to June, old ones at any time.
THE SEED OF THE CARROT.--In order to save the seed of carrots,
the plan is, to select annually the most perfect and best-shaped
roots in the taking-up season, and either preserve them in sand
in a cellar till spring, or plant them immediately in an open
airy part of the garden, protecting them with litter during
severe frost, or earthing them over, and uncovering them in
March following. The seed is in no danger from being injured by
any other plant. In August it is fit to gather, and is best
preserved on the stalks till wanted.
BOILED CAULIFLOWERS.
[Illustration: BOILED CAULIFLOWER.]
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