The Book of Household Management - Mrs. Isabella Beeton
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[Illustration: CAULIFLOWER.]
1104. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt.
_Mode_.--Choose cauliflowers that are close and white; trim off the
decayed outside leaves, and cut the stalk off flat at the bottom. Open
the flower a little in places to remove the insects, which generally are
found about the stalk, and let the cauliflowers lie in salt and water
for an hour previous to dressing them, with their heads downwards: this
will effectually draw out all the vermin. Then put them into
fast-boiling water, with the addition of salt in the above proportion,
and let them boil briskly over a good fire, keeping the saucepan
uncovered. The water should be well skimmed; and, when the cauliflowers
are tender, take them up with a slice; let them drain, and, if large
enough, place them upright in the dish. Serve with plain melted butter,
a little of which may be poured over the flower.
_Time_.--Small cauliflower, 12 to 15 minutes, large one, 20 to 25
minutes, after the water boils.
_Average cost_, for large cauliflowers, 6d. each.
_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 large cauliflower for 3 persons.
_Seasonable_ from the beginning of June to the end of September.
CAULIFLOWERS A LA SAUCE BLANCHE.
(Entremets, or Side-dish, to be served with the Second Course.)
1105. INGREDIENTS.--3 cauliflowers, 1/2 pint of sauce blanche, or French
melted butter, No. 378; 3 oz. of butter; salt and water.
_Mode_.--Cleanse the cauliflowers as in the preceding recipe, and cut
the stalks off flat at the bottom; boil them until tender in salt and
water, to which the above proportion of butter has been added, and be
careful to take them up the moment they are done, or they will break,
and the appearance of the dish will be spoiled. Drain them well, and
dish them in the shape of a large cauliflower. Have ready 1/2 pint of
sauce, made by recipe No. 378, pour it over the flowers, and serve hot
and quickly.
_Time_.--Small cauliflowers, 12 to 15 minutes, large ones, 20 to 25
minutes, after the water boils.
_Average cost_,--large cauliflowers, in full season, 6d. each.
_Sufficient_,--1 large cauliflower for 3 or 4 persons.
_Seasonable_ from the beginning of June to the end of September.
CAULIFLOWER AND BROCOLI.--These are only forms of the wild
Cabbage in its cultivated state. They are both well known; but
we may observe, that the purple and white Brocoli are only
varieties of the Cauliflower.
CAULIFLOWERS WITH PARMESAN CHEESE.
(Entremets, or Side-dish, to be served with the Second Course.)
1106. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 cauliflowers, rather more than 1/2 pint of
white sauce No. 378, 2 tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese, 2 oz.
of fresh butter, 3 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs.
_Mode_.--Cleanse and boil the cauliflowers by recipe No. 1104, and drain
them and dish them with the flowers standing upright. Have ready the
above proportion of white sauce; pour sufficient of it over the
cauliflowers just to cover the top; sprinkle over this some rasped
Parmesan cheese and bread crumbs, and drop on these the butter, which
should be melted, but not oiled. Brown with a salamander, or before the
fire, and pour round, but not over, the flowers the remainder of the
sauce, with which should be mixed a small quantity of grated Parmesan
cheese.
_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, for large cauliflowers,
6d. each.
_Sufficient_,--3 small cauliflowers for 1 dish.
_Seasonable_ from the beginning of June to the end of September.
CELERY.
[Illustration: CELERY IN GLASS.]
1107. With a good heart, and nicely blanched, this vegetable is
generally eaten raw, and is usually served with the cheese. Let the
roots be washed free from dirt, all the decayed and outside leaves being
cut off, preserving as much of the stalk as possible, and all specks or
blemishes being carefully removed. Should the celery be large, divide it
lengthwise into quarters, and place it, root downwards, in a
celery-glass, which should be rather more than half filled with water.
The top leaves may be curled, by shredding them in narrow strips with
the point of a clean skewer, at a distance of about 4 inches from the
top.
_Average cost_, 2d. per head.
_Sufficient_.--Allow 2 heads for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ from October to April.
_Note_.--This vegetable is exceedingly useful for flavouring soups,
sauces, &c., and makes a very nice addition to winter salad.
STEWED CELERY A LA CREME.
1108. INGREDIENTS.--6 heads of celery; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow
1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1/3 pint of
cream.
_Mode_.--Wash the celery thoroughly; trim, and boil it in salt and water
until tender. Put the cream and pounded mace into a stewpan; shake it
over the fire until the cream thickens, dish the celery, pour over the
sauce, and serve.
_Time_.--Large heads of celery, 25 minutes; small ones, 15 to 20
minutes.
_Average cost_. 2d. per head.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from October to April.
ALEXANDERS.--This plant is the _Smyrnium olustratum_ of science, and is
used in this country in the same way in which celery is. It is a native
of Great Britain, and is found in its wild state near the seacoast. It
received its name from the Italian "herba Alexandrina," and is supposed
to have been originally brought from Alexandria; but, be this as it may,
its cultivation is now almost entirely abandoned.
STEWED CELERY (with White Sauce).
I.
1109. INGREDIENTS.--6 heads of celery, 1 oz. of butter; to each 1/2
gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, 1/2 pint of white
sauce, No. 537 or 538.
_Mode_.--Have ready sufficient boiling water just to cover the celery,
with salt and butter in the above proportion. Wash the celery well; cut
off the decayed outside leaves, trim away the green tops, and shape the
root into a point; put it into the boiling water; let it boil rapidly
until tender; then take it out, drain well, place it upon a dish, and
pour over about 1/2 pint of white sauce, made by either of the recipes
No. 537 or 538. It may also be plainly boiled as above, placed on toast,
and melted butter poured over, the same as asparagus is dished.
_Time_.--Large heads of celery, 25 minutes, small ones, 15 to 20
minutes, after the water boils.
_Average cost_, 2d. per head.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from October to April.
ORIGIN OF CELERY.--In the marshes and ditches of this country
there is to be found a very common plant, known by the name of
Smallage. This is the wild form of celery; but, by being
subjected to cultivation, it loses its acrid nature, and becomes
mild and sweet. In its natural state, it has a peculiar rank,
coarse taste and smell, and its root was reckoned by the
ancients as one of the "five greater aperient roots." There is a
variety of this in which the root becomes turnip-shaped and
large. It is called _Celeriae_, and is extensively used by the
Germans, and preferred by them to celery. In a raw state, this
plant does not suit weak stomachs; cooked, it is less difficult
of digestion, although a large quantity should not he taken.
[Illustration: CELERY.].
II.
1110. INGREDIENTS.--6 heads of celery, 1/2 pint of white stock or weak
broth, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, thickening of butter and flour, 1
blade of pounded mace, a _very little_ grated nutmeg; pepper and salt to
taste.
_Mode_.--Wash the celery, strip off the outer leaves, and cut it into
lengths of about 4 inches. Put these into a saucepan, with the broth,
and stew till tender, which will be in from 20 to 25 minutes; then add
the remaining ingredients, simmer altogether for 4 or 5 minutes, pour
into a dish, and serve. It may be garnished with sippets of toasted
bread.
_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2d. per head.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from October to April.
_Note_.--By cutting the celery into smaller pieces, by stewing it a
little longer, and, when done, by pressing it through a sieve, the above
stew may be converted into a puree of celery.
TO DRESS CUCUMBERS.
1111. INGREDIENTS.--3 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, 4 tablespoonfuls of
vinegar, salt and pepper to taste; cucumber.
_Mode_.--Pare the cucumber, cut it equally into _very thin_ slices, and
_commence_ cutting from the _thick end_; if commenced at the stalk, the
cucumber will most likely have an exceedingly bitter taste, far from
agreeable. Put the slices into a dish, sprinkle over salt and pepper,
and pour over oil and vinegar in the above proportion; turn the cucumber
about, and it is ready to serve. This is a favourite accompaniment to
boiled salmon, is a nice addition to all descriptions of salads, and
makes a pretty garnish to lobster salad.
[Illustration: SLICED CUCUMBERS.]
[Illustration: CUCUMBER.]
_Average cost_, when scarce, 1s. to 2s. 6d.; when cheapest, may be had
for 4d. each.
_Seasonable_.--Forced from the beginning of March to the end of June; in
full season in July, August, and September.
GEOGRAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION OF THE CUCUMBERS.--This family is not
known in the frigid zone, is somewhat rare in the temperate, but
in the tropical and warmer regions throughout the world they are
abundant. They are most plentiful in the continent of Hindostan;
but in America are not near so plentiful. Many of the kinds
supply useful articles of consumption for food, and others are
actively medicinal in their virtues. Generally speaking,
delicate stomachs should avoid this plant, for it is cold and
indigestible.
CUCUMBERS A LA POULETTE.
1112. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 cucumbers, salt and vinegar, 2 oz. of butter,
flour, 1/2 pint of broth, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, a lump of
sugar, the yolks of 2 eggs, salt and pepper to taste.
_Mode_.--Pare and cut the cucumbers into slices of an equal thickness,
and let them remain in a pickle of salt and vinegar for 1/2 hour; then
drain them in a cloth, and put them into a stewpan with the butter. Fry
them over a brisk fire, but do not brown them, and then dredge over them
a little flour; add the broth, skim off all the fat, which will rise to
the surface, and boil gently until the gravy is somewhat reduced; but
the cucumber should not be broken. Stir in the yolks of the eggs, add
the parsley, sugar, and a seasoning of pepper and salt; bring the whole
to the point of boiling, and serve.
_Time_.--Altogether, 1 hour.
_Average cost_, when cheapest, 4d. each.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ in July, August, and September; but may be had, forced,
from the beginning of March.
FRIED CUCUMBERS.
1113. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 cucumbers, pepper and salt to taste, flour,
oil or butter.
_Mode_.--Pare the cucumbers and cut them into slices of an equal
thickness, commencing to slice from the thick, and not the stalk end of
the cucumber. Wipe the slices dry with a cloth, dredge them with flour,
and put them into a pan of boiling oil or butter; Keep turning them
about until brown; lift them out of the pan, let them drain, and serve,
piled lightly in a dish. These will be found a great improvement to
rump-steak: they should be placed on a dish with the steak on the top.
_Time_.--5 minutes. _Average cost_, when cheapest, 4d. each.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_.--Forced from the beginning of March to the end of June; in
full season in July and August.
PROPERTIES AND USES OF THE CUCURBITS.--The common cucumber is
the C. sativus of science, and although the whole of the family
have a similar action in the animal economy, yet there are some
which present us with great anomalies. The roots of those which
are perennial contain, besides fecula, which is their base, a
resinous, acrid, and bitter principle. The fruits of this
family, however, have in general a sugary taste, and are more or
less dissolving and perfumed, as we find in the melons, gourds,
cucumbers, vegetable-marrows, and squashes. But these are
slightly laxative if partaken of largely. In tropical countries,
this order furnishes the inhabitants with a large portion of
their food, which, even in the most arid deserts and most barren
islands, is of the finest quality. In China, Cashmere, and
Persia, they are cultivated on the lakes on the floating
collections of weeds common in these localities. In India they
are everywhere abundant, either in a cultivated or wild state,
and the seeds of all the family are sweet and mucilaginous.
STEWED CUCUMBERS.
1114. INGREDIENTS.--3 large cucumbers, flour, butter, rather more than
1/2 pint of good brown gravy.
_Mode_.--Cut the cucumbers lengthwise the size of the dish they are
intended to be served in; empty them of the seeds, and put them into
boiling water with a little salt, and let them simmer for 5 minutes;
then take them out, place them in another stewpan, with the gravy, and
let them boil over a brisk fire until the cucumbers are tender. Should
these be bitter, add a lump of sugar; carefully dish them, skim the
sauce, pour over the cucumbers, and serve.
_Time_.--Altogether, 20 minutes.
_Average cost_, when cheapest, 1d. each.
_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.
_Seasonable_ in June, July, and August; but may be had, forced, from the
beginning of March.
THE CHATE.--This cucumber is a native of Egypt and Arabia, and
produces a fruit of almost the same substance as that of the
Melon. In Egypt it is esteemed by the upper class natives, as
well as by Europeans, as the most pleasant fruit they have.
STEWED CUCUMBERS WITH ONIONS.
1115. INGREDIENTS.--6 cucumbers, 3 moderate-sized onions, not quite 1
pint of white stock, cayenne and salt to taste, the yolks of 2 eggs, a
very little grated nutmeg.
_Mode_.--Pare and slice the cucumbers, take out the seeds, and cut the
onions into thin slices; put these both into a stewpan, with the stock,
and let them boil for 1/4 hour or longer, should the cucumbers be very
large. Beat up the yolks of 2 eggs; stir these into the sauce; add the
cayenne, salt, and grated nutmeg; bring it to the point of boiling, and
serve. Do not allow the sauce to boil, or it will curdle. This is a
favourite dish with lamb or mutton chops, rump-steaks, &c.
_Time_.--Altogether, 20 minutes.
_Average cost_, when cheapest, 4d. each.
_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.
_Seasonable_ in July, August, and September; but may be had, forced,
from the beginning of March.
THE MELON.--This is another species of the cucumber, and is
highly esteemed for its rich and delicious fruit. It was
introduced to this country from Jamaica, in 1570; since which
period it has continued to be cultivated. It was formerly called
the Musk Melon.
ENDIVE.
[Illustration: ENDIVE.]
1116. This vegetable, so beautiful in appearance, makes an excellent
addition to winter salad, when lettuces and other salad herbs are not
obtainable. It is usually placed in the centre of the dish, and looks
remarkably pretty with slices of beetroot, hard-boiled eggs, and curled
celery placed round it, so that the colours contrast nicely. In
preparing it, carefully wash and cleanse it free from insects, which are
generally found near the heart; remove any decayed or dead leaves, and
dry it thoroughly by shaking in a cloth. This vegetable may also be
served hot, stewed in cream, brown gravy, or butter; but when dressed
thus, the sauce it is stewed in should not be very highly seasoned, as
that would destroy and overpower the flavour of the vegetable.
_Average cost_, 1d. per head.
_Sufficient_,--1 head for a salad for 4 persons.
_Seasonable_ from November to March.
ENDIVE.--This is the _C. endivium_ of science, and is much used
as a salad. It belongs to the family of the _Compositae_, with
Chicory, common Goats-beard, and others of the same genus.
Withering states, that before the stems of the common
Goats-beard shoot up the roots, boiled like asparagus, have the
same flavour, and are nearly as nutritious. We are also informed
by Villars that the children in Dauphine universally eat the
stems and leaves of the young plant before the flowers appear,
with great avidity. The fresh juice of these tender herbs is
said to be the best solvent of bile.
STEWED ENDIVE.
1117. INGREDIENTS.--6 heads of endive, salt and water, 1 pint of broth,
thickening of butter and flour, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, a small
lump of sugar.
_Mode_.--Wash and free the endive thoroughly from insects, remove the
green part of the leaves, and put it into boiling water, slightly
salted. Let it remain for 10 minutes; then take it out, drain it till
there is no water remaining, and chop it very fine. Put it into a
stewpan with the broth; add a little salt and a lump of sugar, and boil
until the endive is perfectly tender. When done, which may be
ascertained by squeezing a piece between the thumb and finger, add a
thickening of butter and flour and the lemon-juice: let the sauce boil
up, and serve.
_Time_.--10 minutes to boil, 5 minutes to simmer in the broth.
_Average cost_, 1d. per head.
_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.
_Seasonable_ from November to March.
ENDIVE A LA FRANCAISE.
1118. INGREDIENTS.--6 heads of endive, 1 pint of broth, 3 oz. of fresh
butter; salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste.
_Mode_.--Wash and boil the endive as in the preceding recipe; chop it
rather fine, and put into a stewpan with the broth; boil over a brisk
fire until the sauce is all reduced; then put in the butter, pepper,
salt, and grated nutmeg (the latter must be very sparingly used); mix
all well together, bring it to the boiling point, and serve very hot.
_Time_,--10 minutes to boil, 5 minutes to simmer in the broth.
_Average cost_, 1d. per head.
_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.
_Seasonable_ from November to March.
TO BOIL HARICOTS BLANCS, or WHITE HARICOT BEANS.
1119. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of white haricot beans, 2 quarts of soft
water, 1 oz. of butter, 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.
_Mode_.--Put the beans into cold water, and let them soak from 2 to 4
hours, according to their age; then put them into cold water, salted in
the above proportion, bring them to boil, and let them simmer very
slowly until tender; pour the water away from them, let them stand by
the side of the fire, with the lid of the saucepan partially off, to
allow the beans to dry; then add 1 oz. of butter and a seasoning of
pepper and salt. Shake the beans about for a minute or two, and serve:
do not stir them with a spoon, for fear of breaking them to pieces.
_Time_.--After the water boils, from 2 to 2-1/2 hours.
_Average cost_, 4d. per quart.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ in winter, when other vegetables are scarce.
_Note_.--Haricots blancs, when new and fresh, should be put into boiling
water, and do not require any soaking previous to dressing.
HARICOTS AND LENTILS.--Although these vegetables are not much
used in this country, yet in France, and other Catholic
countries, from their peculiar constituent properties, they form
an excellent substitute for animal food during Lent and _maigre_
days. At the time of the prevalence of the Roman religion in
this country, they were probably much more generally used than
at present. As reformations are often carried beyond necessity,
possibly lentils may have fallen into disuse, as an article of
diet amongst Protestants, for fear the use of them might be
considered a sign of popery.
HARICOTS BLANCS A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.
1120. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of white haricot beans, 1/4 lb. of fresh
butter, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, pepper and salt to taste, the
juice of 1/2 lemon.
[Illustration: HARICOT BEANS.]
_Mode_.--Should the beans be very dry, soak them for an hour or two in
cold water, and boil them until perfectly tender, as in the preceding
recipe. If the water should boil away, replenish it with a little more
cold, which makes the skin of the beans tender. Let them be very
thoroughly done; drain them well; then add to them the butter, minced
parsley, and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Keep moving the stewpan
over the fire without using a spoon, as this would break the beans; and,
when the various ingredients are well mixed with them, squeeze in the
lemon-juice, and serve very hot.
_Time_.--From 2 to 2-1/2 hours to boil the beans.
_Average cost_, 4d. per quart.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ in winter.
HARICOT BEANS.--This is the _haricot blanc_ of the French, and
is a native of India. It ripens readily, in dry summers, in most
parts of Britain, but its culture has hitherto been confined to
gardens in England; but in Germany and Switzerland it is grown
in fields. It is usually harvested by pulling up the plants,
which, being dried, are stacked and thrashed. The haulm is both
of little bulk and little use, but the seed is used in making
the esteemed French dish called haricot, with which it were well
if the working classes of this country were acquainted. There
is, perhaps, no other vegetable dish so cheap and easily cooked,
and, at the same time, so agreeable and nourishing. The beans
are boiled, and then mixed with a little fat or salt butter, and
a little milk or water and flour. From 3,840 parts of
kidney-bean Einholff obtained 1,805 parts of matter analogous to
starch, 351 of vegeto-animal matter, and 799 parts of mucilage.
HARICOT BEANS AND MINCED ONIONS.
1121. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of white haricot beans, 4 middling-sized
onions, 1/4 pint of good brown gravy, pepper and salt to taste, a little
flour.
_Mode_.--Peel and mince the onions not too finely, and fry them in
butter of a light brown colour; dredge over them a little flour, and add
the gravy and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Have ready a pint of
haricot beans well boiled and drained; put them with the onions and
gravy, mix all well together, and serve very hot.
_Time_.--From 2 to 2-1/2 hours to boil the beans; 5 minutes to fry the
onions.
_Average cost_, 4d. per quart.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ in winter.
HORSERADISH.
1122. This root, scraped, is always served with hot roast beef, and is
used for garnishing many kinds of boiled fish. Let the horseradish
remain in cold water for an hour; wash it well, and with a sharp knife
scrape it into very thin shreds, commencing from the thick end of the
root. Arrange some of it lightly in a small glass dish, and the
remainder use for garnishing the joint: it should be placed in tufts
round the border of the dish, with 1 or 2 bunches on the meat.
_Average cost_, 2d. per stick.
_Seasonable_ from October to June.
[Illustration: HORSERADISH.]
THE HORSERADISH.--This belongs to the tribe _Alyssidae_, and is
highly stimulant and exciting to the stomach. It has been
recommended in chronic rheumatism, palsy, dropsical complaints,
and in cases of enfeebled digestion. Its principal use, however,
is as a condiment to promote appetite and excite the digestive
organs. The horseradish contains sulphur to the extent of thirty
per cent, in the number of its elements; and it is to the
presence of this quality that the metal vessels in which the
radish is sometimes distilled, are turned into a black colour.
It is one of the most powerful excitants and antiscorbutics we
have, and forms the basis of several medical preparations, in
the form of wines, tinctures, and syrups.
LETTUCES.
1123. These form one of the principal ingredients to summer salads;
should be nicely blanched, and be eaten young. They are seldom served in
any other way, but may be stewed and sent to table in a good brown gravy
flavoured with lemon-juice. In preparing them for a salad, carefully
wash them free from dirt, pick off all the decayed and outer leaves, and
dry them thoroughly by shaking them in a cloth. Cut off the stalks, and
either halve or cut the lettuces into small pieces. The manner of
cutting them up entirely depends on the salad for which they are
intended. In France the lettuces are sometimes merely wiped with a cloth
and not washed, the cooks there declaring that the act of washing them
injuriously affects the pleasant crispness of the plant: in this case
scrupulous attention must be paid to each leaf, and the grit thoroughly
wiped away.
_Average cost_, when cheapest, 1d. each.
_Sufficient_.--Allow 2 lettuces for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to the end of August, but may be had all the
year.
[Illustration: LETTUCE.]
THE LETTUCE.--All the varieties of the garden lettuce have
originated from the _Lactuca sativa_ of science, which has never
yet been found in a wild state. Hence it may be concluded that
it is merely another form of some species, changed through the
effects of cultivation. In its young state, the lettuce forms a
well-known and wholesome salad, containing a bland pellucid
juice, with little taste or smell, and having a cooling and
soothing influence on the system. This arises from the large
quantities of water and mucilage it contains, and not from any
narcotic principle which it is supposed to possess. During the
period of flowering, it abounds in a peculiar milky juice, which
flows from the stem when wounded, and which has been found to be
possessed of decided medicinal properties.
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