The Book of Household Management - Mrs. Isabella Beeton
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BAKED MUSHROOMS.
(A Breakfast, Luncheon, or Supper Dish.)
1124. INGREDIENTS.--16 to 20 mushroom-flaps, butter, pepper to taste.
_Mode_.--For this mode of cooking, the mushroom flaps are better than
the buttons, and should not be too large. Cut off a portion of the
stalk, peel the top, and wipe the mushrooms carefully with a piece of
flannel and a little fine salt. Put them into a tin baking-dish, with a
very small piece of butter placed on each mushroom; sprinkle over a
little pepper, and let them bake for about 20 minutes, or longer should
the mushrooms be very large. Have ready a _very hot_ dish, pile the
mushrooms high in the centre, pour the gravy round, and send them to
table quickly, with very _hot_ plates.
_Time_.--20 minutes; large mushrooms, 1/2 hour.
_Average cost_, 1d. each for large mushroom-flaps.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_.--Meadow mushrooms in September and October; cultivated
mushrooms may be had at any time.
FUNGI.--These are common parasitical plants, originating in the
production of copious filamentous threads, called the mycelium,
or spawn. Rounded tubers appear on the mycelium; some of these
enlarge rapidly, burst an outer covering, which is left at the
base, and protrude a thick stalk, bearing at its summit a
rounded body, which in a short time expands into the pileus or
cap. The gills, which occupy its lower surface, consist of
parallel plates, bearing naked sporules over their whole
surface. Some of the cells, which are visible by the microscope,
produce four small cells at their free summit, apparently by
germination and constriction. These are the sporules, and this
is the development of the Agarics.
BROILED MUSHROOMS.
(A Breakfast, Luncheon, or Supper Dish.)
1125. INGREDIENTS.--Mushroom-flaps, pepper and salt to taste, butter,
lemon-juice.
[Illustration: BROILED MUSHROOMS.]
_Mode_.--Cleanse the mushrooms by wiping them with a piece of flannel
and a little salt; cut off a portion of the stalk, and peel the tops:
broil them over a clear fire, turning them once, and arrange them on a
very hot dish. Put a small piece of butter on each mushroom, season with
pepper and salt, and squeeze over them a few drops of lemon-juice. Place
the dish before the fire, and when the butter is melted, serve very hot
and quickly. Moderate-sized flaps are better suited to this mode of
cooking than the buttons: the latter are better in stews.
_Time_.--10 minutes for medium-sized mushrooms.
_Average cost_, 1d. each for large mushrooms.
_Sufficient_.--Allow 3 or 4 mushrooms to each person.
_Seasonable_.--Meadow mushrooms in September and October; cultivated
mushrooms may be had at any time.
[Illustration: MUSHROOMS.]
VARIETIES OF THE MUSHROOM.--The common mushroom found in our
pastures is the _Agaricus campestris_ of science, and another
edible British species is _A. Georgii;_ but _A. primulus_ is
affirmed to be the most delicious mushroom. The morel is
_Morchella esculenta_, and _Tuber cibarium_ is the common
truffle. There is in New Zealand a long fungus, which grows from
the head of a caterpillar, and which forms a horn, as it were,
and is called _Sphaeria Robertsii_.
TO PRESERVE MUSHROOMS.
1126. INGREDIENTS.--To each quart of mushrooms, allow 3 oz. of butter,
pepper and salt to taste, the juice of 1 lemon, clarified butter.
_Mode_.--Peel the mushrooms, put them into cold water, with a little
lemon-juice; take them out and _dry_ them very carefully in a cloth. Put
the butter into a stewpan capable of holding the mushrooms; when it is
melted, add the mushrooms, lemon-juice, and a seasoning of pepper and
salt; draw them down over a slow fire, and let them remain until their
liquor is boiled away, and they have become quite dry, but be careful in
not allowing them to stick to the bottom of the stewpan. When done, put
them into pots, and pour over the top clarified butter. If wanted for
immediate use, they will keep good a few days without being covered
over. To re-warm them, put the mushrooms into a stewpan, strain the
butter from them, and they will be ready for use.
_Average cost_, 1d. each.
_Seasonable_.--Meadow mushrooms in September and October; cultivated
mushrooms may be had at any time.
LOCALITIES OF THE MUSHROOM.--Mushrooms are to be met with in
pastures, woods, and marshes, but are very capricious and
uncertain in their places of growth, multitudes being obtained
in one season where few or none were to be found in the
preceding. They sometimes grow solitary, but more frequently
they are gregarious, and rise in a regular circular form. Many
species are employed by man as food; but, generally speaking,
they are difficult of digestion, and by no means very
nourishing. Many of them are also of suspicious qualities.
Little reliance can be placed either on their taste, smell, or
colour, as much depends on the situation in which they vegetate;
and even the same plant, it is affirmed, may be innocent when
young, but become noxious when advanced in age.
STEWED MUSHROOMS.
1127. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint mushroom-buttons, 3 oz. of fresh butter,
white pepper and salt to taste, lemon-juice, 1 teaspoonful of flour,
cream or milk, 1 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg.
_Mode_.--Cut off the ends of the stalks, and pare neatly a pint of
mushroom-buttons; put them into a basin of water, with a little
lemon-juice, as they are done. When all are prepared, take them from the
water with the hands, to avoid the sediment, and put them into a stewpan
with the fresh butter, white pepper, salt, and the juice of 1/2 lemon;
cover the pan closely, and let the mushrooms stew gently from 20 to 25
minutes; then thicken the butter with the above proportion of flour, add
gradually sufficient cream, or cream and milk, to make the sauce of a
proper consistency, and put in the grated nutmeg. If the mushrooms are
not perfectly tender, stew them for 5 minutes longer, remove every
particle of butter which may be floating on the top, and serve.
_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, from 9d. to 2s. per pint.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_.--Meadow mushrooms in September and October.
TO PROCURE MUSHROOMS.--In order to obtain mushrooms at all
seasons, several methods of propagation have been had recourse
to. It is said that, in some parts of Italy, a species of stone
is used for this purpose, which is described as being of two
different kinds; the one is found in the chalk hills near
Naples, and has a white, porous, stalactical appearance; the
other is a hardened turf from some volcanic mountains near
Florence. These stones are kept in cellars, and occasionally
moistened with water which has been used in the washing of
mushrooms, and are thus supplied with their minute seeds. In
this country, gardeners provide themselves with what is called
_spawn_, either from the old manure of cucumber-beds, or
purchase it from those whose business it is to propagate it.
When thus procured, it is usually made up for sale in quadrils,
consisting of numerous white fibrous roots, having a strong
smell of mushrooms. This is planted in rows, in a dry situation,
and carefully attended to for five or six weeks, when the bed
begins to produce, and continues to do so for several months.
STEWED MUSHROOMS IN GRAVY.
1128. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of mushroom-buttons, 1 pint of brown gravy
No. 436, 1/4 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, cayenne and salt to taste.
_Mode_.--Make a pint of brown gravy by recipe 436; cut nearly all the
stalks away from the mushrooms and peel the tops; put them into a
stewpan, with the gravy, and simmer them gently from 20 minutes to 1/2
hour. Add the nutmeg and a seasoning of cayenne and salt, and serve very
hot.
_Time_.--20 minutes to 1/2 hour.
_Average cost_, 9d. to 2s. per pint.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_.--Meadow mushrooms in September and October.
ANALYSIS OF FUNGI.--The fungi have been examined chemically with
much care, both by MM. Bracannot and Vauquelin, who designate
the insoluble spongy matter by the name of fungin, and the
soluble portion is found to contain the bolotic and the fungic
acids.
BAKED SPANISH ONIONS.
1129. INGREDIENTS.--4 or 5 Spanish onions, salt, and water.
_Mode_.--Put the onions, with their skins on, into a saucepan of boiling
water slightly salted, and let them boil quickly for an hour. Then take
them out, wipe them thoroughly, wrap each one in a piece of paper
separately, and bake them in a moderate oven for 2 hours, or longer,
should the onions be very large. They may be served in their skins, and
eaten with a piece of cold butter and a seasoning of pepper and salt; or
they may be peeled, and a good brown gravy poured over them.
_Time_.--1 hour to boil, 2 hours to bake.
_Average cost_, medium-sized, 2d. each.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from September to January.
[Illustration: ONION.]
THE GENUS ALLIUM.--The Onion, like the Leek, Garlic, and Shalot,
belongs to the genus _Allium_, which is a numerous species of
vegetable; and every one of them possesses, more or less, a
volatile and acrid penetrating principle, pricking the thin
transparent membrane of the eyelids; and all are very similar in
their properties. In the whole of them the bulb is the most
active part, and any one of them may supply the place of the
other; for they are all irritant, excitant, and vesicant. With
many, the onion is a very great favourite, and is considered an
extremely nutritive vegetable. The Spanish kind is frequently
taken for supper, it being simply boiled, and then seasoned with
salt, pepper, and butter. Some dredge on a little flour, but
many prefer it without this.
BURNT ONIONS FOR GRAVIES.
1130. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of onions, 1/3 pint of water, 1/2 lb. of
moist sugar, 1/3 pint of vinegar.
_Mode_.--Peel and chop the onions fine, and put them into a stewpan (not
tinned), with the water; let them boil for 5 minutes, then add the
sugar, and simmer gently until the mixture becomes nearly black and
throws out bubbles of smoke. Have ready the above proportion of boiling
vinegar, strain the liquor gradually to it, and keep stirring with a
wooden spoon until it is well incorporated. When cold, bottle for use.
_Time_.--Altogether, 1 hour.
PROPERTIES OF THE ONION.--The onion is possessed of a white,
acrid, volatile oil, holding sulphur in solution, albumen, a
good deal of uncrystallizable sugar and mucilage; phosphoric
acid, both free and combined with lime; acetic acid, citrate of
lime, and lignine. Of all the species of allium, the onion has
the volatile principle in the greatest degree; and hence it is
impossible to separate the scales of the root without the eyes
being affected. The juice is sensibly acid, and is capable of
being, by fermentation, converted into vinegar, and, mixed with
water or the dregs of beer, yields, by distillation, an
alcoholic liquor. Although used as a common esculent, onions are
not suited to all stomachs; there are some who cannot eat them
either fried or roasted, whilst others prefer them boiled, which
is the best way of using them, as, by the process they then
undergo, they are deprived of their essential oil. The pulp of
roasted onions, with oil, forms an excellent anodyne and
emollient poultice to suppurating tumours.
STEWED SPANISH ONIONS.
1131--INGREDIENTS.--5 or 6 Spanish onions, 1 pint of good broth or
gravy.
_Mode_.--Peel the onions, taking care not to cut away too much of the
tops or tails, or they would then fall to pieces; put them into a
stewpan capable of holding them at the bottom without piling them one on
the top of another; add the broth or gravy, and simmer _very gently_
until the onions are perfectly tender. Dish them, pour the gravy round,
and serve. Instead of using broth, Spanish onions may be stewed with a
large piece of butter: they must be done very gradually over a slow fire
or hot-plate, and will produce plenty of gravy.
_Time_.--To stew in gravy, 2 hours, or longer if very large.
_Average cost_.--medium-sized, 2d. each.
_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.
_Seasonable_ from September to January.
_Note_.--Stewed Spanish onions are a favourite accompaniment to roast
shoulder of mutton.
ORIGIN OF THE ONION.--This vegetable is thought to have
originally come from India, through Egypt, where it became an
object of worship. Thence it was transmitted to Greece, thence
to Italy, and ultimately it was distributed throughout Europe,
in almost every part of which it has, from time immemorial, been
cultivated. In warm climates it is found to be less acrid and
much sweeter than in colder latitudes; and in Spain it is not at
all unusual to see a peasant munching an onion, as an Englishman
would an apple. Spanish onions, which are imported to this
country during the winter months, are, when properly roasted,
perfectly sweet, and equal to many preserves.
BOILED PARSNIPS.
1132. INGREDIENTS.--Parsnips; to each gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt.
_Mode_.--Wash the parsnips, scrape them thoroughly, and, with the point
of the knife, remove any black specks about them, and, should they be
very large, cut the thick part into quarters. Put them into a saucepan
of boiling water salted in the above proportion, boil them rapidly until
tender, which may be ascertained by thrusting a fork in them; take them
up, drain them, and serve in a vegetable-dish. This vegetable is usually
served with salt fish, boiled pork, or boiled beef: when sent to table
with the latter, a few should be placed alternately with carrots round
the dish, as a garnish.
_Time_.--Large parsnips, 1 to 1-1/2 hour; small ones, 1/2 to 1 hour.
_Average cost_, 1d. each.
_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 for each person.
_Seasonable_ from October to May.
[Illustration: THE PARSNIP.]
THE PARSNIP.--This vegetable is found wild in meadows all over
Europe, and, in England, is met with very frequently on dry
banks in a chalky soil. In its wild state, the root is white,
mucilaginous, aromatic, and sweet, with some degree of acrimony:
when old, it has been known to cause vertigo. Willis relates
that a whole family fell into delirium from having eaten of its
roots, and cattle never touch it in its wild state. In domestic
economy the parsnip is much used, and is found to be a highly
nutritious vegetable. In times of scarcity, an excellent bread
has been made from the roots, and they also furnish an excellent
wine, resembling the malmsey of Madeira and the Canaries: a
spirit is also obtained from them in as great quantities as from
carrots. The composition of the parsnip-root has been found to
be 79.4 of water, 0.9 starch and fibre, 6.1 gum, 5.5 sugar, and
2.1 of albumen.
BOILED GREEN PEAS.
1133. INGREDIENTS.--Green peas; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1
_small_ teaspoonful of moist sugar, 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.
_Mode_.--This delicious vegetable, to be eaten in perfection, should be
young, and not _gathered_ or _shelled_ long before it is dressed. Shell
the peas, wash them well in cold water, and drain them; then put them
into a saucepan with plenty of _fast-boiling_ water, to which salt and
_moist sugar_ have been added in the above proportion; let them boil
quickly over a brisk fire, with the lid of the saucepan uncovered, and
be careful that the smoke does not draw in. When tender, pour them into
a colander; put them into a hot vegetable-dish, and quite in the centre
of the peas place a piece of butter, the size of a walnut. Many cooks
boil a small bunch of mint _with_ the _peas_, or garnish them with it,
by boiling a few sprigs in a saucepan by themselves. Should the peas be
very old, and difficult to boil a good colour, a very tiny piece of soda
may be thrown in the water previous to putting them in; but this must be
very sparingly used, as it causes the peas, when boiled, to have a
smashed and broken appearance. With young peas, there is not the
slightest occasion to use it.
_Time_.--Young peas, 10 to 15 minutes; the large sorts, such as
marrowfats, &c., 18 to 24 minutes; old peas, 1/2 hour.
_Average cost_, when cheapest, 6d. per peck; when first in season, 1s.
to 1s. 6d. per peck.
_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 peck of unshelled peas for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ from June to the end of August.
ORIGIN OF THE PEA.--All the varieties of garden peas which are
cultivated have originated from the _Pisum sativum_, a native of
the south of Europe; and field peas are varieties of _Pisum
arvense_. The Everlasting Pea is _Lathyrus latifolius_, an old
favourite in flower-gardens. It is said to yield an abundance of
honey to bees, which are remarkably fond of it. In this country
the pea has been grown from time immemorial; but its culture
seems to have diminished since the more general introduction of
herbage, plants, and roots.
GREEN PEAS A LA FRANCAISE.
1134. INGREDIENTS.--2 quarts of green peas, 3 oz. of fresh butter, a
bunch of parsley, 6 green onions, flour, a small lump of sugar, 1/2
teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of flour.
_Mode_.--Shell sufficient fresh-gathered peas to fill 2 quarts; put them
into cold water, with the above proportion of butter, and stir them
about until they are well covered with the butter; drain them in a
colander, and put them in a stewpan, with the parsley and onions; dredge
over them a little flour, stir the peas well, and moisten them with
boiling water; boil them quickly over a large fire for 20 minutes, or
until there is no liquor remaining. Dip a small lump of sugar into some
water, that it may soon melt; put it with the peas, to which add 1/2
teaspoonful of salt. Take a piece of butter the size of a walnut, work
it together with a teaspoonful of flour; and add this to the peas, which
should be boiling when it is put in. Keep shaking the stewpan, and, when
the peas are nicely thickened, dress them high in the dish, and serve.
_Time_.--Altogether, 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. per peck.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ from June to the end of August.
VARIETIES OF THE PEA.--The varieties of the Pea are numerous;
but they may be divided into two classes--those grown for the
ripened seed, and those grown for gathering in a green state.
The culture of the latter is chiefly confined to the
neighbourhoods of large towns, and may be considered as in part
rather to belong to the operations of the gardener than to those
of the agriculturist. The grey varieties are the early grey, the
late grey, and the purple grey; to which some add the
Marlborough grey and the horn grey. The white varieties grown in
fields are the pearl, early Charlton, golden hotspur, the common
white, or Suffolk, and other Suffolk varieties.
STEWED GREEN PEAS.
1135. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of peas, 1 Lettuce, 1 onion, 2 oz. of
butter, pepper and salt to taste, 1 egg, 1/2 teaspoonful of powdered
sugar.
_Mode_.--Shell the peas, and cut the onion and lettuce into slices; put
these into a stewpan, with the butter, pepper, and salt, but with no
more water than that which hangs round the lettuce from washing. Stew
the whole very gently for rather more than 1 hour; then stir to it a
well-beaten egg, and about 1/2 teaspoonful of powdered sugar. When the
peas, &c., are nicely thickened, serve but, after the egg is added, do
not allow them to boil.
_Time_.--1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. per peck.
_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.
_Seasonable_ from June to the end of August.
[Illustration: GREEN PEA.]
THE SWEET-PEA AND THE HEATH OR WOOD-PEA.--The well-known
sweet-pea forms a fine covering to a trellis, or lattice-work in
a flower-garden. Its gay and fragrant flowers, with its rambling
habit, render it peculiarly adapted for such a purpose. The
wood-pea, or heath-pea, is found in the heaths of Scotland, and
the Highlanders of that country are extremely partial to them,
and dry and chew them to give a greater relish to their whiskey.
They also regard them as good against chest complaints, and say
that by the use of them they are enabled to withstand hunger and
thirst for a long time. The peas have a sweet taste, somewhat
like the root of liquorice, and, when boiled, have an agreeable
flavour, and are nutritive. In times of scarcity they have
served as an article of food. When well boiled, a fork will pass
through them; and, slightly dried, they are roasted, and in
Holland and Flanders served up like chestnuts.
BAKED POTATOES.
1136. INGREDIENTS.--Potatoes.
[Illustration: BAKED POTATOES SERVED IN NAPKIN.]
_Mode_.--Choose large potatoes, as much of a size as possible; wash them
in lukewarm water, and scrub them well, for the browned skin of a baked
potato is by many persons considered the better part of it. Put them
into a moderate oven, and bake them for about 2 hours, turning them
three or four times whilst they are cooking. Serve them in a napkin
immediately they are done, as, if kept a long time in the oven, they
have a shrivelled appearance. Potatoes may also be roasted before the
fire, in an American oven; but when thus cooked, they must be done very
slowly. Do not forget to send to table with them a piece of cold butter.
_Time_.--Large potatoes, in a hot oven 1-1/2 hour to 2 hours; in a cool
oven, 2 to 2-1/2 hours.
_Average cost_, 4s. per bushel.
_Sufficient_.--Allow 2 to each person.
_Seasonable_ all the year, but not good just before and whilst new
potatoes are in season.
POTATO-SUGAR.--This sugary substance, found in the tubers of
potatoes, is obtained in the form of syrup or treacle, and has
not yet been crystallized. It resembles the sugar of grapes,
has a very sweet taste, and may be used for making sweetmeats,
and as a substitute for honey. Sixty pounds of potatoes,
yielding eight pounds of dry starch, will produce seven and a
half pounds of sugar. In Russia it is extensively made, as
good, though of less consistency than the treacle obtained from
cane-sugar. A spirit is also distilled from the tubers, which
resembles brandy, but is milder, and has a flavour as if it were
charged with the odour of violets or raspberries. In France
this manufacture is carried on pretty extensively, and five
hundred pounds of the tubers will produce twelve quarts of
spirit, the pulp being given to cattle.
TO BOIL POTATOES.
1137. INGREDIENTS.--10 or 12 potatoes; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow
1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.
_Mode_.--Choose potatoes of an equal size, pare them, take out all the
eyes and specks, and as they are peeled, throw them into cold water. Put
them into a saucepan, with sufficient cold water to cover them, with
salt in the above proportion, and let them boil gently until tender.
Ascertain when they are done by thrusting a fork in them, and take them
up the moment they feel soft through; for if they are left in the water
afterwards, they become waxy or watery. Drain away the water, put the
saucepan by the side of the fire, with the lid partially uncovered, to
allow the steam to escape, and let the potatoes get thoroughly dry, and
do not allow them to get burnt. Their superfluous moisture will
evaporate, and the potatoes, if a good sort, should be perfectly mealy
and dry. Potatoes vary so much in quality and size, that it is difficult
to give the exact time for boiling; they should be attentively watched,
and probed with a fork, to ascertain when they are cooked. Send them to
table quickly, and very hot, and with an opening in the cover of the
dish, that a portion of the steam may evaporate, and not fall back on
the potatoes.
_Time_.--Moderate-sized old potatoes, 15 to 20 minutes after the water
boils; large ones, 1/2 hour to 35 minutes.
_Average cost_, 4s. per bushel.
_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ all the year, but not good just before and whilst new
potatoes are in season.
_Note_.--To keep potatoes hot, after draining the water from them, put a
folded cloth or flannel (kept for the purpose) on the top of them,
keeping the saucepan-lid partially uncovered. This will absorb the
moisture, and keep them hot some time without spoiling.
THE POTATO.--The potato belongs to the family of the
_Solanaceae_, the greater number of which inhabit the tropics,
and the remainder are distributed over the temperate regions of
both hemispheres, but do not extend to the arctic and antarctic
zones. The whole of the family are suspicious; a great number
are narcotic, and many are deleterious. The roots partake of the
properties of the plants, and are sometimes even more active.
The tubercles of such as produce them, are amylaceous and
nutritive, as in those of the potato. The leaves are generally
narcotic; but they lose this principle in boiling, as is the
case with the _Solanum nigrum_, which are used as a vegetable
when cooked.
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