The Book of Household Management - Mrs. Isabella Beeton
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TO BOIL POTATOES IN THEIR JACKETS.
1138. INGREDIENTS.--10 or 12 potatoes; to each 1/2 gallon of water,
allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.
_Mode_.--To obtain this wholesome and delicious vegetable cooked in
perfection, it should be boiled and sent to table with the skin on. In
Ireland, where, perhaps, the cooking of potatoes is better understood
than in any country, they are always served so. Wash the potatoes well,
and if necessary, use a clean scrubbing-brush to remove the dirt from
them; and if possible, choose the potatoes so that they may all be as
nearly the same size as possible. When thoroughly cleansed, fill the
saucepan half full with them, and just cover the potatoes with cold
water, salted in the above proportion: they are more quickly boiled with
a small quantity of water, and, besides, are more savoury than when
drowned in it. Bring them to boil, then draw the pan to the side of the
fire, and let them simmer gently until tender. Ascertain when they are
done by probing them with a fork; then pour off the water, uncover the
saucepan, and let the potatoes dry by the side of the fire, taking care
not to let them burn. Peel them quickly, put them in a very hot
vegetable-dish, either with or without a napkin, and serve very quickly.
After potatoes are cooked, they should never be entirely covered up, as
the steam, instead of escaping, falls down on them, and makes them
watery and insipid. In Ireland they are usually served up with the skins
on, and a small plate is placed by the side of each guest.
_Time_.--Moderate-sized potatoes, with their skins on, 20 to 25 minutes
after the water boils; large potatoes, 25 minutes to 3/4 hour, or
longer; 5 minutes to dry them.
_Average cost_, 4s. per bushel. Sufficient for 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ all the year, but not good just before and whilst new
potatoes are in season.
ANALYSIS OF THE POTATO.--Next to the cereals, the potato is the
most valuable plant for the production of human food. Its
tubers, according to analysis conducted by Mr. Fromberg, in the
laboratory of the Agricultural Chemical Association in Scotland,
contain the following ingredients:--75.52 per cent. of water,
15.72 starch, O.55 dextrine, 3.3 of impure saccharine matter,
and 3.25 of fibre with coagulated albumen. In a dried state the
tuber contains 64.2 per cent, of starch, 2.25 of dextrine, 13.47
of impure saccharine matter, 5.77 of caseine, gluten, and
albumen, 1 of fatty matter, and 13.31 of fibre with coagulated
albumen.
TO BOIL NEW POTATOES.
1139. INGREDIENTS.--Potatoes; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt.
_Mode_.--Do not have the potatoes dug long before they are dressed, as
they are never good when they have been out of the ground some time.
Well wash them, rub off the skins with a coarse cloth, and put them into
_boiling_ water salted in the above proportion. Let them boil until
tender; try them with a fork, and when done, pour the water away from
them; let them stand by the side of the fire with the lid of the
saucepan partially uncovered, and when the potatoes are thoroughly dry,
put them into a hot vegetable-dish, with a piece of butter the size of a
walnut; pile the potatoes over this, and serve. If the potatoes are too
old to have the skins rubbed off, boil them in their jackets; drain,
peel, and serve them as above, with a piece of butter placed in the
midst of them.
_Time_.--1/4 to 1/2 hour, according to the size.
_Average cost_, in full season, 1d. per lb.
_Sufficient_.--Allow 3 lbs. for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ in May and June, but may be had, forced, in March.
POTATO STARCH.--This fecula has a beautiful white crystalline
appearance, and is inodorous, soft to the touch, insoluble in
cold, but readily soluble in boiling water. It is on this starch
that the nutritive properties of the tubers depend. As an
aliment, it is well adapted for invalids and persons of delicate
constitution. It may be used in the form of arrow-root, and
eaten with milk or sugar. For pastry of all kinds it is more
light and easier of digestion than that made with flour of
wheat. In confectionery it serves to form creams and jellies,
and in cookery may be used to thicken soups and sauces. It
accommodates itself to the chest and stomach of children, for
whom it is well adapted; and it is an aliment that cannot be too
generally used, as much on account of its wholesomeness as its
cheapness, and the ease with which it is kept, which are equal,
if not superior, to all the much-vaunted exotic feculae; as,
salep, tapioca, sago, and arrow-root.
TO STEAM POTATOES.
1140. INGREDIENTS.--Potatoes; boiling water.
_Mode_.--This mode of cooking potatoes is now much in vogue,
particularly where they are wanted on a large scale, it being so very
convenient. Pare the potatoes, throw them into cold water as they are
peeled, then put them into a steamer. Place the steamer over a saucepan
of boiling water, and steam the potatoes from 20 to 40 minutes,
according to the size and sort. When a fork goes easily through them,
they are done; then take them up, dish, and serve very quickly.
_Time_.--20 to 40 minutes. _Average cost_, 4s. per bushel.
_Sufficient_.--Allow 2 large potatoes to each person.
_Seasonable_ all the year, but not so good whilst new potatoes are in
season.
USES OF THE POTATO.--Potatoes boiled and beaten along with sour
milk form a sort of cheese, which is made in Saxony; and, when
kept in close vessels, may be preserved for several years. It is
generally supposed that the water in which potatoes are boiled
is injurious; and as instances are recorded where cattle having
drunk it were seriously affected, it may be well to err on the
safe side, and avoid its use for any alimentary purpose.
Potatoes which have been exposed to the air and become green,
are very unwholesome. Cadet de Vaux asserts that potatoes will
clean linen as well as soap; and it is well known that the
berries of the _S. saponaceum_ are used in Peru for the same
purpose.
HOW TO USE COLD POTATOES.
1141. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold potatoes; to every lb. allow 2
tablespoonfuls of flour, 2 ditto of minced onions, 1 oz. of butter,
milk.
_Mode_.--Mash the potatoes with a fork until perfectly free from lumps;
stir in the other ingredients, and add sufficient milk to moisten them
well; press the potatoes into a mould, and bake in a moderate oven until
nicely brown, which will be in from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour. Turn them
out of the mould, and serve.
_Time_.--20 minutes to 1/2 hour.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
POTATO BREAD.--The manner in which this is made is very simple.
The adhesive tendency of the flour of the potato acts against
its being baked or kneaded without being mixed with wheaten
flour or meal; it may, however, be made into cakes in the
following manner:--A small wooden frame, nearly square, is laid
on a pan like a frying-pan and is grooved, and so constructed
that, by means of a presser or lid introduced into the groove,
the cake is at once fashioned, according to the dimensions of
the mould. The frame containing the farina may be almost
immediately withdrawn after the mould is formed upon the pan;
because, from the consistency imparted to the incipient cake by
the heat, it will speedily admit of being safely handled: it
must not, however, be fried too hastily. It will then eat very
palatably, and might from time to time be soaked for puddings,
like tapioca, or might be used like the cassada-cake, for, when
well buttered and toasted, it will be found an excellent
accompaniment to breakfast. In Scotland, cold boiled potatoes
are frequently squeezed up and mixed with flour or oatmeal, and
an excellent cake, or _scon_, obtained.
FRIED POTATOES (French Fashion).
1142. INGREDIENTS.--Potatoes, hot butter or clarified dripping, salt.
_Mode_.--Peel and cut the potatoes into thin slices, as nearly the same
size as possible; make some butter or dripping quite hot in a
frying-pan; put in the potatoes, and fry them on both sides of a nice
brown. When they are crisp and done, take them up, place them on a cloth
before the fire to drain the grease from them, and serve very hot, after
sprinkling them with salt. These are delicious with rump-steak, and, in
France, are frequently served thus as a breakfast dish. The remains of
cold potatoes may also be sliced and fried by the above recipe, but the
slices must be cut a little thicker.
_Time_.--Sliced raw potatoes, 5 minutes; cooked potatoes, 5 minutes.
_Average cost_, 4s. per bushel.
_Sufficient_,--6 sliced potatoes for 3 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
A GERMAN METHOD OF COOKING POTATOES.
1143. INGREDIENTS.--8 to 10 middling-sized potatoes, 3 oz. of butter, 2
tablespoonfuls of flour, 1/2 pint of broth, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar.
_Mode_.--Put the butter and flour into a stewpan; stir over the fire
until the butter is of a nice brown colour, and add the broth and
vinegar; peel and cut the potatoes into long thin slices, lay them in
the gravy, and let them simmer gently until tender, which will be in
from 10 to 15 minutes, and serve very hot. A laurel-leaf simmered with
the potatoes is an improvement.
_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
PRESERVING POTATOES.--In general, potatoes are stored or
preserved in pits, cellars, pies, or camps; but, whatever mode
is adopted, it is essential that the tubers be perfectly dry;
otherwise, they will surely rot; and a few rotten potatoes will
contaminate a whole mass. The pie, as it is called, consists of
a trench, lined and covered with straw; the potatoes in it being
piled in the shape of a house roof, to the height of about three
feet. The camps are shallow pits, filled and ridged up in a
similar manner, covered up with the excavated mould of the pit.
In Russia and Canada, the potato is preserved in boxes, in
houses or cellars, heated, when necessary, to a temperature one
or two degrees above the freezing-point, by stoves. To keep
potatoes for a considerable time, the best way is to place them
in thin layers on a platform suspended in an ice-cellar: there,
the temperature being always below that of active vegetation,
they will not sprout; while, not being above one or two degrees
below the freezing-point, the tubers will not be frostbitten.
Another mode is to scoop out the eyes with a very small scoop,
and keep the roots buried in earth; a third mode is to destroy
the vital principle, by kiln-drying, steaming, or scalding; a
fourth is to bury them so deep in dry soil, that no change of
temperature will reach them; and thus, being without air, they
will remain upwards of a year without vegetating.
POTATOES A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.
1144. INGREDIENTS.--Potatoes, salt and water; to every 6 potatoes allow
1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 2 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to
taste, 4 tablespoonfuls of gravy, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice.
_Mode_.--Wash the potatoes clean, and boil them in salt and water by
recipe No. 1138; when they are done, drain them, let them cool; then
peel and cut the potatoes into thick slices: if these are too thin, they
would break in the sauce. Put the butter into a stewpan with the pepper,
salt, gravy, and parsley; mix these ingredients well together, put in
the potatoes, shake them two or three times, that they may be well
covered with the sauce, and, when quite hot through, squeeze in the
lemon-juice, and serve.
_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour to boil the potatoes; 10 minutes for them to
heat in the sauce.
_Average cost_, 4s. per bushel.
_Sufficient_ for 3 persons. _Seasonable_ all the year.
MASHED POTATOES.
1145. INGREDIENTS.--Potatoes; to every lb. of mashed potatoes allow 1
oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of milk, salt to taste.
_Mode_.--Boil the potatoes in their skins; when done, drain them, and
let them get thoroughly dry by the side of the fire; then peel them,
and, as they are peeled, put them into a clean saucepan, and with a
large fork beat them to a light paste; add butter, milk, and salt in the
above proportion, and stir all the ingredients well over the fire. When
thoroughly hot, dish them lightly, and draw the fork backwards over the
potatoes to make the surface rough, and serve. When dressed in this
manner, they may be browned at the top with a salamander, or before the
fire. Some cooks press the potatoes into moulds, then turn them out, and
brown them in the oven: this is a pretty mode of serving, but it makes
them heavy. In whatever way they are sent to table, care must be taken
to have them quite free from lumps.
_Time_.--From 1/2 to 3/4 hour to boil the potatoes.
_Average cost_, 4s. per bushel.
_Sufficient_,--1 lb. of mashed potatoes for 3 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
PUREE DE POMMES DE TERRE, or, Very Thin-mashed Potatoes.
1146. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of mashed potatoes allow 1/4 pint of
good broth or stock, 2 oz. of butter.
_Mode_.--Boil the potatoes, well drain them, and pound them smoothly in
a mortar, or beat them up with a fork; add the stock or broth, and rub
the potatoes through a sieve. Put the puree into a very clean saucepan
with the butter; stir it well over the fire until thoroughly hot, and it
will then be ready to serve. A puree should be rather thinner than
mashed potatoes, and is a delicious accompaniment to delicately broiled
mutton cutlets. Cream or milk may be substituted for the broth when the
latter is not at hand. A casserole of potatoes, which is often used for
ragouts instead of rice, is made by mashing potatoes rather thickly,
placing them on a dish, and making an opening in the centre. After
having browned the potatoes in the oven, the dish should be wiped clean,
and the ragout or fricassee poured in.
_Time_.--About 1/2 hour to boil the potatoes; 6 or 7 minutes to warm the
puree.
_Average cost_, 4s. per bushel.
_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 lb. of cooked potatoes for 3 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
[Illustration: SWEET POTATO.]
VARIETIES OF THE POTATO.--These are very numerous. "They
differ," says an authority, "in their leaves and bulk of haulm;
in the colour of the skin of the tubers; in the colour of the
interior, compared with that of the skin; in the time of
ripening; in being farinaceous, glutinous, or watery; in tasting
agreeably or disagreeably; in cooking readily or tediously; in
the length of the subterraneous _stolones_ to which the tubers
are attached; in blossoming or not blossoming; and finally, in
the soil which they prefer." The earliest varieties grown in
fields are,--the Early Kidney, the Nonsuch, the Early Shaw, and
the Early Champion. This last is the most generally cultivated
round London: it is both mealy and hardy. The sweet potato is
but rarely eaten in Britain; but in America it is often served
at table, and is there very highly esteemed.
POTATO RISSOLES.
1147. INGREDIENTS.--Mashed potatoes, salt and pepper to taste; when
liked, a very little minced parsley, egg, and bread crumbs.
[Illustration: POTATO RISSOLES.]
_Mode_.--Boil and mash the potatoes by recipe No. 1145; add a seasoning
of pepper and salt, and, when liked, a little minced parsley. Roll the
potatoes into small balls, cover them with egg and bread crumbs, and fry
in hot lard for about 10 minutes; let them drain before the fire, dish
them on a napkin, and serve.
_Time_,--10 minutes to fry the rissoles.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Note_.--The flavour of these rissoles may be very much increased by
adding finely-minced tongue or ham, or even chopped onions, when these
are liked.
QUALITIES OF POTATOES.--In making a choice from the many
varieties of potatoes which are everywhere found, the best way
is to get a sample and taste them, and then fix upon the kind
which best pleases your palate. The Shaw is one of the most
esteemed of the early potatoes for field culture; and the Kidney
and Bread-fruit are also good sorts. The Lancashire Pink is also
a good potato, and is much cultivated in the neighbourhood of
Liverpool. As late or long-keeping potatoes, the Tartan or
Red-apple stands very high in favour.
POTATO SNOW.
1148. INGREDIENTS.--Potatoes, salt, and water.
_Mode_.--Choose large white potatoes, as free from spots as possible;
boil them in their skins in salt and water until perfectly tender; drain
and _dry them thoroughly_ by the side of the fire, and peel them. Put a
hot dish before the fire, rub the potatoes through a coarse sieve on to
this dish; do not touch them afterwards, or the flakes will fall, and
serve as hot as possible.
_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour to boil the potatoes.
_Average cost_, 4s. per bushel.
_Sufficient_,--6 potatoes for 3 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
THE POTATO AS AN ARTICLE OF HUMAN FOOD.--This valuable esculent,
next to wheat, is of the greatest importance in the eye of the
political economist. From no other crop that can be cultivated
does the public derive so much benefit; and it has been
demonstrated that an acre of potatoes will feed double the
number of people that can be fed from an acre of wheat.
TO DRESS SALSIFY.
1149. INGREDIENTS.--Salsify; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt, 1 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice.
_Mode_.--Scrape the roots gently, so as to strip them only of their
outside peel; cut them into pieces about 4 inches long, and, as they are
peeled, throw them into water with which has been mixed a little
lemon-juice, to prevent their discolouring. Put them into boiling water,
with salt, butter, and lemon-juice in the above proportion, and let them
boil rapidly until tender; try them with a fork; and, when it penetrates
easily, they are done. Drain the salsify, and serve with a good white
sauce or French melted butter.
_Time_.--30 to 50 minutes. _Seasonable_ in winter.
_Note_.--This vegetable may be also boiled, sliced, and fried in batter
of a nice brown. When crisp and a good colour, they should be served
with fried parsley in the centre of the dish, and a little fine salt
sprinkled over the salsify.
SALSIFY.--This esculent is, for the sake of its roots,
cultivated in gardens. It belongs to the Composite class of
flowers, which is the most extensive family in the vegetable
kingdom. This family is not only one of the most natural and
most uniform in structure, but there is also a great similarity
existing in the properties of the plants of which it is
composed. Generally speaking, all composite flowers are tonic or
stimulant in their medical virtues.
BOILED SEA-KALE.
1150. INGREDIENTS.--To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt.
[Illustration: BOILED SEA-KALE.]
_Mode_.--Well wash the kale, cut away any wormeaten pieces, and tie it
into small bunches; put it into _boiling_ water, salted in the above
proportion, and let it boil quickly until tender. Take it out, drain,
untie the bunches, and serve with plain melted butter or white sauce, a
little of which may be poured over the kale. Sea-kale may also be
parboiled and stewed in good brown gravy: it will then take about 1/2
hour altogether.
_Time_.--15 minutes; when liked very thoroughly done, allow an extra 5
minutes.
_Average cost_, in full season, 9d. per basket.
_Sufficient_.--Allow 12 heads for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ from February to June.
[Illustration: SEA-KALE.]
SEA-KALE.--This plant belongs to the Asparagus tribe, and grows
on seashores, especially in the West of England, and in the
neighbourhood of Dublin. Although it is now in very general use,
it did not come into repute till 1794. It is easily cultivated,
and is esteemed as one of the most valuable esculents indigenous
to Britain. As a vegetable, it is stimulating to the appetite,
easily digestible, and nutritious. It is so light that the most
delicate organizations may readily eat it. The flowers form a
favourite resort for bees, as their petals contain a great
amount of saccharine matter.
BOILED SALAD.
1151. INGREDIENTS.--2 heads of celery, 1 pint of French beans, lettuce,
and endive.
[Illustration: FRENCH BEANS.]
[Illustration: CHERVIL.]
_Mode_.--Boil the celery and beans separately until tender, and cut the
celery into pieces about 2 inches long. Put these into a salad-bowl or
dish; pour over either of the sauces No. 506, 507, or 508, and garnish
the dish with a little lettuce finely chopped, blanched endive, or a few
tufts of boiled cauliflower. This composition, if less agreeable than
vegetables in their raw state, is more wholesome; for salads, however
they may be compounded, when eaten uncooked, prove to some people
indigestible. Tarragon, chervil, burnet, and boiled onion, may be added
to the above salad with advantage, as also slices of cold meat, poultry,
or fish.
_Seasonable_ from July to October.
ACETARIOUS VEGETABLES.--By the term Acetarious vegetables, is
expressed a numerous class of plants, of various culture and
habit, which are principally used as salads, pickles, and
condiments. They are to be considered rather as articles of
comparative luxury than as ordinary food, and are more desirable
for their coolness, or their agreeable flavour, than for their
nutritive powers.
CAULIFLOWER.--The cauliflower is less indigestible than the
cabbage; it possesses a most agreeable flavour, and is
sufficiently delicate to be served at the tables of the wealthy.
It is a wholesome vegetable, but should be eaten moderately, as
it induces flatulence. Persons of weak constitutions and
delicate stomachs should abstain from cauliflower as much as
possible. They may be prepared in a variety of ways; and, in
selecting them, the whitest should be chosen; those tinged with
green or yellow being of indifferent quality.
SUMMER SALAD.
1152. INGREDIENTS.--3 lettuces, 2 handfuls of mustard-and-cress, 10
young radishes, a few slices of cucumber.
[Illustration: SALAD IN BOWL.]
_Mode_.--Let the herbs be as fresh as possible for a salad, and, if at
all stale or dead-looking, let them lie in water for an hour or two,
which will very much refresh them. Wash and carefully pick them over,
remove any decayed or wormeaten leaves, and drain them thoroughly by
swinging them gently in a clean cloth. With a silver knife, cut the
lettuces into small pieces, and the radishes and cucumbers into thin
slices; arrange all these ingredients lightly on a dish, with the
mustard-and-cress, and pour under, but not over the salad, either of the
sauces No. 506, 507, or 508, and do not stir it up until it is to be
eaten. It may be garnished with hard-boiled eggs, cut in slices, sliced
cucumbers, nasturtiums, cut vegetable-flowers, and many other things
that taste will always suggest to make a pretty and elegant dish. In
making a good salad, care must be taken to have the herbs freshly
gathered, and _thoroughly drained_ before the sauce is added to them, or
it will be watery and thin. Young spring onions, cut small, are by many
persons considered an improvement to salads; but, before these are
added, the cook should always consult the taste of her employer. Slices
of cold meat or poultry added to a salad make a convenient and
quickly-made summer luncheon-dish; or cold fish, flaked, will also be
found exceedingly nice, mixed with it.
_Average cost_, 9d. for a salad for 5 or 6 persons; but more expensive
when the herbs are forced.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from May to September.
CUCUMBERS.--The cucumber is refreshing, but neither nutritious
nor digestible, and should be excluded from the regimen of the
delicate. There are various modes of preparing cucumbers. When
gathered young, they are called gherkins: these, pickled, are
much used in seasonings.
[Illustration: CUCUMBER-SLICE.]
RADISHES.--This is the common name given to the root of the
_Raphanus satious_, one of the varieties of the cultivated
horseradish. There are red and white radishes; and the French
have also what they call violet and black ones, of which the
black are the larger. Radishes are composed of nearly the same
constituents as turnips, that is to say, mostly fibre and
nitrogen; and, being generally eaten raw, it is on the last of
these that their flavour depends. They do not agree with people,
except those who are in good health, and have active digestive
powers; for they are difficult of digestion, and cause
flatulency and wind, and are the cause of headaches when eaten
to excess. Besides being eaten raw, they are sometimes, but
rarely, boiled; and they also serve as a pretty garnish for
salads. In China, the radish may be found growing naturally,
without cultivation; and may be occasionally met with in England
as a weed, in similar places to where the wild turnip grows; it,
however, thrives best in the garden, and the ground it likes
best is a deep open loam, or a well-manured sandy soil.
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