The Book of Household Management - Mrs. Isabella Beeton
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[Illustration: TURNIP RADISHES.]
[Illustration: LONG RADISHES.]
WINTER SALAD.
1153. INGREDIENTS.--Endive, mustard-and-cress, boiled beetroot, 3 or 4
hard-boiled eggs, celery.
_Mode_.--The above ingredients form the principal constituents of a
winter salad, and may be converted into a very pretty dish, by nicely
contrasting the various colours, and by tastefully garnishing it. Shred
the celery into thin pieces, after having carefully washed and cut away
all wormeaten pieces; cleanse the endive and mustard-and-cress free from
grit, and arrange these high in the centre of a salad-bowl or dish;
garnish with the hard-boiled eggs and beetroot, both of which should be
cut in slices; and pour into the dish, but not over the salad, either of
the sauces No. 506, 507, or 508. Never dress a salad long before it is
required for table, as, by standing, it loses its freshness and pretty
crisp and light appearance; the sauce, however, may always be prepared a
few hours beforehand, and when required for use, the herbs laid lightly
over it.
_Average cost_, 9d. for a salad for 5 or 6 persons.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from the end of September to March.
SALADS.--Salads are raw vegetables, of which, among us, the
lettuce is the most generally used; several others, however,
such as cresses, celery, onions, beetroot, &c., are occasionally
employed. As vegetables eaten in a raw state are apt to ferment
on the stomach, and as they have very little stimulative power
upon that organ, they are usually dressed with some condiments,
such as pepper, vinegar, salt, mustard, and oil. Respecting the
use of these, medical men disagree, especially in reference to
oil, which is condemned by some and recommended by others.
POTATO SALAD.
1154. INGREDIENTS.--10 or 12 cold boiled potatoes, 4 tablespoonfuls of
tarragon or plain vinegar, 6 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, pepper and
salt to taste, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley.
_Mode_.--Cut the potatoes into slices about 1/2 inch in thickness; put
these into a salad-bowl with oil and vinegar in the above proportion;
season with pepper, salt, and a teaspoonful of minced parsley; stir the
salad well, that all the ingredients may be thoroughly incorporated, and
it is ready to serve. This should be made two or three hours before it
is wanted for table. Anchovies, olives, or pickles may be added to this
salad, as also slices of cold beef, fowl, or turkey.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
CHICKEN SALAD.--(See No. 931.)
GROUSE SALAD.--(See No. 1020.)
LOBSTER SALAD.--(See No. 272.)
TO BOIL SPINACH (English Mode).
1155. INGREDIENTS.--2 pailfuls of spinach, 2 heaped tablespoonfuls of
salt, 1 oz. of butter, pepper to taste.
[Illustration: SPINACH GARNISHED WITH CROUTONS.]
_Mode_.--Pick the spinach carefully, and see that no stalks or weeds are
left amongst it; wash it in several waters, and, to prevent it being
gritty, act in the following manner:--Have ready two large pans or tubs
filled with water; put the spinach into one of these, and thoroughly
wash it; then, _with the hands_, take out the spinach, and put it into
the _other tub_ of water (by this means all the grit will be left at the
bottom of the tub); wash it again, and, should it not be perfectly free
from dirt, repeat the process. Put it into a very large saucepan, with
about 1/2 pint of water, just sufficient to keep the spinach from
burning, and the above proportion of salt. Press it down frequently with
a wooden spoon, that it may be done equally; and when it has boiled for
rather more than 10 minutes, or until it is perfectly tender, drain it
in a colander, squeeze it quite dry, and chop it finely. Put the spinach
into a clean stewpan, with the butter and a seasoning of pepper; stir
the whole over the fire until quite hot; then put it on a hot dish, and
garnish with sippets of toasted bread.
_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes to boil the spinach, 5 minutes to warm with
the butter.
_Average cost_ for the above quantity, 8d.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_.--Spring spinach from March to July; winter spinach from
November to March.
_Note_.--Grated nutmeg, pounded mace, or lemon-juice may also be added
to enrich the flavour; and poached eggs are also frequently served with
spinach: they should be placed on the top of it, and it should be
garnished with sippets of toasted bread.--See coloured plate U.
VARIETIES OF SPINACH.--These comprise the Strawberry spinach,
which, under that name, was wont to be grown in our
flower-gardens; the Good King Harry, the Garden Oracle, the
Prickly, and the Round, are the varieties commonly used. The
Oracle is a hardy sort, much esteemed in France, and is a native
of Tartary, introduced in 1548. The common spinach has its
leaves round, and is softer and more succulent than any of the
Brassica tribe.
SPINACH DRESSED WITH CREAM, a la Francaise.
1156. INGREDIENTS.--2 pailfuls of spinach, 2 tablespoonfuls of salt, 2
oz. of butter, 8 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 small teaspoonful of pounded
sugar, a very little grated nutmeg.
_Mode_.--Boil and drain the spinach as in recipe No. 1155; chop it
finely, and put it into a stewpan with the butter; stir over a gentle
fire, and, when the butter has dried away, add the remaining
ingredients, and simmer for about 5 minutes. Previously to adding the
cream, boil it first, in case it should curdle. Serve on a hot dish, and
garnish either with sippets of toasted bread or leaves of puff-paste.
_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes to boil the spinach; 10 minutes to stew with
the cream.
_Average cost_ for the above quantity, 8d.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_.--Spring spinach from March to July; winter spinach from
November to March.
[Illustration: SPINACH.]
SPINACH.--This is a Persian plant. It has been cultivated in our
gardens about two hundred years, and is the most wholesome of
vegetables. It is not very nutritious, but is very easily
digested. It is very light and laxative. Wonderful properties
have been ascribed to spinach. It is an excellent vegetable, and
very beneficial to health. Plainly dressed, it is a resource for
the poor; prepared luxuriantly, it is a choice dish for the
rich.
SPINACH.--This vegetable belongs to a sub-order of the
_Salsolaceae_, or saltworts, and is classified under the head of
_Spirolobeae_, with leaves shaped like worms, and of a succulent
kind. In its geographical distribution it is commonly found in
extratropical and temperate regions, where they grow as weeds in
waste places, and among rubbish, and in marshes by the seashore.
In the tropics the order is rarely found. Many of them are used
as potherbs, and some of them are emetic and vermifuge in their
medicinal properties.
FRENCH MODE OF DRESSING SPINACH.
1157. INGREDIENTS.--2 pailfuls of spinach, 2 tablespoonfuls of salt, 2
oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 8 tablespoonfuls of good gravy;
when liked, a very little grated nutmeg.
_Mode_.--Pick, wash, and boil the spinach, as in recipe No. 1155, and
when quite tender, drain and squeeze it perfectly dry from the water
that hangs about it. Chop it very fine, put the butter into a stewpan,
and lay the spinach over that; stir it over a gentle fire, and dredge in
the flour. Add the gravy, and let it boil _quickly_ for a few minutes,
that it may not discolour. When the flavour of nutmeg is liked, grate
some to the spinach, and when thoroughly hot, and the gravy has dried
away a little, serve. Garnish the dish with sippets of toasted bread.
_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes to boil the spinach; 10 minutes to simmer in
the gravy.
_Average cost_ for the above quantity, 8d.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_.--Spring spinach from March to July; winter spinach from
October to February.
_Note_.--For an entremets or second-course dish, spinach, dressed by the
above recipe may be pressed into a hot mould; it should then be turned
out quickly, and served very hot.
BAKED TOMATOES.
(_Excellent_.)
1158. INGREDIENTS.--8 or 10 tomatoes, pepper and salt to taste, 2 oz. of
butter, bread crumbs.
_Mode_.--Take off the stalks from the tomatoes; cut them into thick
slices, and put them into a deep baking-dish; add a plentiful seasoning
of pepper and salt, and butter in the above proportion; cover the whole
with bread crumbs; drop over these a little clarified butter; bake in a
moderate oven from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour, and serve very hot. This
vegetable, dressed as above, is an exceedingly nice accompaniment to all
kinds of roast meat. The tomatoes, instead of being cut in slices, may
be baked whole; but they will take rather longer time to cook.
_Time_.--20 minutes to 1/2 hour.
_Average cost_, in full season, 9d. per basket.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ in August, September, and October; but may be had, forced,
much earlier.
[Illustration: THE TOMATO.]
TOMATOES.--The Tomato is a native of tropical countries, but is
now cultivated considerably both in France and England. Its skin
is of a brilliant red, and its flavour, which is somewhat sour,
has become of immense importance in the culinary art. It is used
both fresh and preserved. When eaten fresh, it is served as an
_entremets_; but its principal use is in sauce and gravy; its
flavour stimulates the appetite, and is almost universally
approved. The Tomato is a wholesome fruit, and digests easily.
From July to September, they gather the tomatoes green in
France, not breaking them away from the stalk; they are then
hung, head downwards, in a dry and not too cold place; and there
they ripen.
HOT TOMATO SAUCE, or PUREE OF TOMATOES.
(See No. 529.)
[Illustration: STEWED TOMATOES.]
STEWED TOMATOES.
I.
1159. INGREDIENTS.--8 tomatoes, pepper and salt to taste, 2 oz. of
butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar.
_Mode_.--Slice the tomatoes into a _lined_ saucepan; season them with
pepper and salt, and place small pieces of butter on them. Cover the lid
down closely, and stew from 20 to 25 minutes, or until the tomatoes are
perfectly tender; add the vinegar, stir two or three times, and serve
with any kind of roast meat, with which they will be found a delicious
accompaniment.
_Time_.--20 to 25 minutes.
_Average cost_, in full season, 9d. per basket.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ from August to October; but may be had, forced, much
earlier.
ANALYSIS OF THE TOMATO.--The fruit of the love-apple is the only
part used as an esculent, and it has been found to contain a
particular acid, a volatile oil, a brown, very fragrant
extracto-resinous matter, a vegeto-mineral matter,
muco-saccharine, some salts, and, in all probability, an
alkaloid. The whole plant has a disagreeable odour, and its
juice, subjected to the action of the fire, emits a vapour so
powerful as to cause vertigo and vomiting.
II.
1160. INGREDIENTS.--8 tomatoes, about 1/2 pint of good gravy, thickening
of butter and flour, cayenne and salt to taste.
_Mode_.--Take out the stalks of the tomatoes; put them into a wide
stewpan, pour over them the above proportion of good brown gravy, and
stew gently until they are tender, occasionally _carefully_ turning
them, that they may be equally done. Thicken the gravy with a little
butter and flour worked together on a plate; let it just boil up after
the thickening is added, and serve. If it be at hand, these should be
served on a silver or plated vegetable-dish.
_Time_.--20 to 25 minutes, very gentle stewing.
_Average cost_, in full season, 9d. per basket.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ in August, September, and October; but maybe had, forced,
much earlier.
THE TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE.--This vegetable is a native of Mexico
and South America, but is also found in the East Indies, where
it is supposed to have been introduced by the Spaniards. In this
country it is much more cultivated than it formerly was; and the
more the community becomes acquainted with the many agreeable
forms in which the fruit can be prepared, the more widely will
its cultivation be extended. For ketchup, soups, and sauces, it
is equally applicable, and the unripe fruit makes one of the
best pickles.
TRUFFLES AU NATUREL.
1161. INGREDIENTS.--Truffles, buttered paper.
_Mode_.--Select some fine truffles; cleanse them, by washing them in
several waters with a brush, until not a particle of sand or grit
remains on them; wrap each truffle in buttered paper, and bake in a hot
oven for quite an hour; take off the paper, wipe the truffles, and serve
them in a hot napkin.
_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_.--Not often bought in this country.
_Seasonable_ from November to March.
[Illustration: TRUFFLES.]
THE COMMON TRUFFLE.--This is the _Tuber cibarium_ of science,
and belongs to that numerous class of esculent fungi
distinguished from other vegetables not only by the singularity
of their forms, but by their chemical composition. Upon
analysis, they are found not only to contain the usual
components of the vegetable kingdom, such as carbon, oxygen, and
hydrogen, but likewise a large proportion of nitrogen; from
which they approach more nearly to the nature of animal flesh.
It was long ago observed by Dr. Darwin, that all the mushrooms
cooked at our tables, as well as those used for ketchup,
possessed an animal flavour; and soup enriched by mushrooms only
has sometimes been supposed to contain meat.
TO DRESS TRUFFLES WITH CHAMPAGNE.
1162. INGREDIENTS.--12 fine black truffles, a few slices of fat bacon, 1
carrot, 1 turnip, 2 onions, a bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley,
1 bay-leaf, 2 cloves, 1 blade of pounded mace, 2 glasses of champagne,
1/2 pint of stock.
_Mode_.--Carefully select the truffles, reject those that have a musty
smell, and wash them well with a brush, in cold water only, until
perfectly clean. Put the bacon into a stewpan, with the truffles and the
remaining ingredients; simmer these gently for an hour, and let the
whole cool in the stewpan. When to be served, rewarm them, and drain
them on a clean cloth; then arrange them on a delicately white napkin,
that it may contrast as strongly as possible with the truffles, and
serve. The trimmings of truffles are used to flavour gravies, stock,
sauces, &c.; and are an excellent addition to ragouts, made dishes of
fowl, &c.
_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_.--Not often bought in this country.
_Seasonable_ from November to March.
THE TRUFFLE.--The Truffle belongs to the family of the Mushroom.
It is certain that the truffle must possess, equally with other
plants, organs of reproduction; yet, notwithstanding all the
efforts of art and science, it has been impossible to subject it
to a regular culture. Truffles grow at a considerable depth
under the earth, never appearing on the surface. They are found
in many parts of France: those of Perigord Magny are the most
esteemed for their odour. There are three varieties of the
species,--the black, the red, and the white: the latter are of
little value. The red are very rare, and their use is
restricted. The black has the highest repute, and its
consumption is enormous. When the peasantry go to gather
truffles, they take a pig with them to scent out the spot where
they grow. When that is found, the pig turns up the surface with
his snout, and the men then dig until they find the truffles.
Good truffles are easily distinguished by their agreeable
perfume; they should be light in proportion to their size, and
elastic when pressed by the finger. To have them in perfection,
they should be quite fresh, as their aroma is considerably
diminished by any conserving process. Truffles are stimulating
and beating. Weak stomachs digest them with difficulty. Some of
the culinary uses to which they are subjected render them more
digestible; but they should always be eaten sparingly. Their
chief use is in seasoning and garnitures. In short, a professor
has said, "Meats with truffles are the most distinguished dishes
that opulence can offer to the epicure." The Truffle grows in
clusters, some inches below the surface of the soil, and is of
an irregular globular form. Those which grow wild in England are
about the size of a hen's egg, and have no roots. As there is
nothing to indicate the places where they are, dogs have been
trained to discriminate their scent, by which they are
discovered. Hogs are very fond of them, and frequently lead to
their being found, from their rutting up the ground in search of
them.
ITALIAN MODE OF DRESSING TRUFFLES.
1163. INGREDIENTS.--10 truffles, 1/4 pint of salad-oil, pepper and salt
to taste, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, a very little finely-minced
garlic, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice.
_Mode_.--After cleansing and brushing the truffles, cut them into thin
slices, and put them in a baking-dish, on a seasoning of oil, pepper,
salt, parsley, garlic, and mace in the above proportion. Bake them for
nearly an hour, and, just before serving, add the lemon-juice, and send
them to table very hot.
_Time_.--Nearly 1 hour.
_Average cost_.--Not often bought in this country.
_Seasonable_ from November to March.
WHERE TRUFFLES ARE FOUND.--In this country, the common truffle
is found on the downs of Hampshire, Wiltshire, and Kent; and
they abound in dry light soils, and more especially in oak and
chestnut forests. In France they are plentiful, and many are
imported from the south of that country and Italy, where they
are much larger and in greater perfection: they lose, however,
much of their flavour by drying. Truffles have in England been
tried to be propagated artificially, but without success.
TRUFFLES A L'ITALIENNE.
1164. INGREDIENTS.--10 truffles, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 1
minced shalot, salt and pepper to taste, 2 oz. of butter, 2
tablespoonfuls of good brown gravy, the juice of 1/2 lemon, cayenne to
taste.
_Mode_.--Wash the truffles and cut them into slices about the size of a
penny-piece; put them into a saute pan, with the parsley, shalot, salt,
pepper, and 1 oz. of butter; stir them over the fire, that they may all
be equally done, which will be in about 10 minutes, and drain off some
of the butter; then add a little more fresh butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of
good gravy, the juice of 1/2 lemon, and a little cayenne; stir over the
fire until the whole is on the point of boiling, when serve.
_Time_.--Altogether, 20 minutes.
_Average cost_.--Not often bought in this country.
_Seasonable_ from November to March.
USES OF THE TRUFFLE.--Like the Morel, truffles are seldom eaten
alone, but are much used in gravies, soups, and ragouts. They
are likewise dried for the winter months, and, when reduced to
powder, form a useful culinary ingredient; they, however, have
many virtues attributed to them which they do not possess. Their
wholesomeness is, perhaps, questionable, and they should be
eaten with moderation.
BOILED TURNIPS.
1165. INGREDIENTS.--Turnips; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt.
_Mode_.--Pare the turnips, and, should they be very large, divide them
into quarters; but, unless this is the case, let them be cooked whole.
Put them into a saucepan of boiling water, salted in the above
proportion, and let them boil gently until tender. Try them with a fork,
and, when done, take them up in a colander; let them thoroughly drain,
and serve. Boiled turnips are usually sent to table with boiled mutton,
but are infinitely nicer when mashed than served whole: unless nice and
young, they are scarcely worth the trouble of dressing plainly as above.
_Time_.--Old turnips, 3/4 to 1-1/4 hour; young ones, about 18 to 20
minutes.
_Average cost_, 4d. per bunch.
_Sufficient_.--Allow a bunch of 12 turnips for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_.--May be had all the year; but in spring only useful for
flavouring gravies, &c.
[Illustration: TURNIPS.]
THE TURNIP.--This vegetable is the _Brassica Rapa_ of science,
and grows wild in England, but cannot be brought exactly to
resemble what it becomes in a cultivated state. It is said to
have been originally introduced from Hanover, and forms an
excellent culinary vegetable, much used all over Europe, where
it is either eaten alone or mashed and cooked in soups and
stews. They do not thrive in a hot climate; for in India they,
and many more of our garden vegetables, lose their flavour and
become comparatively tasteless. The Swede is the largest
variety, but it is too coarse for the table.
MASHED TURNIPS.
1166. INGREDIENTS.--10 or 12 large turnips; to each 1/2 gallon of water
allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, 2 oz. of butter, cayenne or white
pepper to taste.
_Mode_.--Pare the turnips, quarter them, and put them into boiling
water, salted in the above proportion; boil them until tender; then
drain them in a colander, and squeeze them as dry as possible by
pressing them with the back of a large plate. When quite free from
water, rub the turnips with a wooden spoon through the colander, and put
them into a very clean saucepan; add the butter, white pepper, or
cayenne, and, if necessary, a little salt. Keep stirring them over the
fire until the butter is well mixed with them, and the turnips are
thoroughly hot; dish, and serve. A little cream or milk added after the
turnips are pressed through the colander, is an improvement to both the
colour and flavour of this vegetable.
_Time_.--From 1/2 to 3/4 hour to boil the turnips; 10 minutes to warm
them through.
_Average cost_, 4d. per bunch.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_.--May be had all the year; but in spring only good for
flavouring gravies.
VEGETABLES REDUCED TO PUREE.--Persons in the flower of youth,
having healthy stomachs, and leading active lives, may eat all
sorts of vegetables, without inconvenience, save, of course, in
excess. The digestive functions possess great energy during the
period of youth: the body, to develop itself, needs nourishment.
Physical exercise gives an appetite, which it is necessary to
satisfy, and vegetables cannot resist the vigorous action of the
gastric organs. As old proverb says, "At twenty one can digest
iron." But for aged persons, the sedentary, or the delicate, it
is quite otherwise. Then the gastric power has considerably
diminished, the digestive organs have lost their energy, the
process of digestion is consequently slower, and the least
excess at table is followed by derangement of the stomach for
several days. Those who generally digest vegetables with
difficulty, should eat them reduced to a pulp or puree, that is
to say, with their skins and tough fibres removed. Subjected to
this process, vegetables which, when entire, would create
flatulence and wind, are then comparatively harmless. Experience
has established the rule, that nourishment is not complete
without the alliance of meat with vegetables. We would also add,
that the regime most favourable to health is found in variety:
variety pleases the senses, monotony is disagreeable. The eye is
fatigued by looking always on one object, the ear by listening
to one sound, and the palate by tasting one flavour. It is the
same with the stomach: consequently, variety of food is one of
the essentials for securing good digestion.
GERMAN MODE OF COOKING TURNIPS.
1167. INGREDIENTS.--8 large turnips, 3 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to
taste, rather more than 1/2 pint of weak stock or broth, 1 tablespoonful
of flour.
_Mode_.--Make the butter hot in a stewpan, lay in the turnips, after
having pared and cut them into dice, and season them with pepper and
salt. Toss them over the fire for a few minutes, then add the broth, and
simmer the whole gently till the turnips are tender. Brown the above
proportion of flour with a little butter; add this to the turnips, let
them simmer another 5 minutes, and serve. Boiled mutton is usually sent
to table with this vegetable, and may be cooked with the turnips by
placing it in the midst of them: the meat would then be very delicious,
as, there being so little liquid with the turnips, it would almost be
steamed, and consequently very tender.
_Time_.--20 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d. per bunch.
_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.
_Seasonable_.--May be had all the year.
TURNIPS.--Good turnips are delicate in texture, firm, and sweet.
The best sorts contain a sweet juicy mucilage, uniting with the
aroma a slightly acid quality, which is completely neutralized
in cooking. The turnip is prepared in a variety of ways. Ducks
stuffed with turnips have been highly appreciated. It is useful
in the regimen of persons afflicted with chronic visceral
irritations. The turnip only creates flatulency when it is soft,
porous, and stringy. It is then, consequently, bad.
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