The Principal Navigations, Voyages, Traffiques, - Richard Hakluyt
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The first of August we were warned aboord by the patron, and towards
euening we set sayle, and had sight of a Castle called Torneste, which is
the Turkes, and is ten miles from Zante, it did belong to the Venetians,
but they haue now lost it, it standeth also on a hill on the sea side in
Morea. All that night we bare into the sea, because we had newes at Zante
of twelue of the Turkes gallies, that came from Rhodes, which were about
Modon, Coron, and Candia, for which cause we kept at the sea.
The second of August, we had no sight of land, but kept our course, and
about the thirde watch the winde scanted, so that we bare with the shore,
and had sight of Modon and Coron.
The third we had sight of Cauo Mattapan, and all that day by reason of
contrary windes, which blew somewhat hard, we lay a hull vntill morning.
The fourth we were still vnder the sayd Cape, and so continued that day,
and towardes night there grewe a contention in the ship amongst the
Hollanders, and it had like to haue bene a great inconuenience, for we had
all our weapons, yea euen our kniues, taken from vs that night.
The fift, we sayled by the Bowline, and out of the toppe we had sight of
the Iland of Candia, and towardes noone we might see it plaine, and towards
night the winde waxed calme.
The sixt toward the breake of day we saw two small Ilands called Gozi, and
towards noone we were betweene them: the one of these Ilands is fifteene
miles about, and the other 10. miles. In those Ilands are nourished store
of cattell for butter and cheese. There are to the number of fiftie or
sixtie inhabitants, which are Greekes, and they liue chiefly on milke and
cheese. The Iland of Candia is 700 miles about, it is in length, from Cape
Spada, to Cape Salomon, 300 miles, it is as they say, able to make one
hundred thousand fighting men. We sayled betweene the Gozi, and Candia, and
they are distant from Candia 5 or 6 miles. The Candiots are strong men, and
very good archers, and shoot neere the marke. This Ilande is from Zante 300
miles.
The seuenth we sayled all along the sayd Iland with little winde and
vnstable, and the eight day towards night we drew to the East end of the
Iland.
The 9 and 10 we sayled along with a prosperous winde and saw no land.
The 11 in the morning, we had sight of the Iland of Cyprus, and towards
noone we were thwart the Cape called Ponta Malota, and about foure of the
clocke we were as farre as Baffo, and about sunne set we passed Cauo
Bianco, and towards nine of the clocke at night we doubled Cauo de la
gatte, and ankered afore Limisso, but the wind blew so hard, that we could
not come neere the towne, neither durst any man goe on land. The towne is
from Cauo de le gatte twelue miles distant.
The 12. of August in the morning wee went on land to Limisso: this towne is
ruinated and nothing in it worth writing, saue onely in the midst of the
towne there hath bene a fortresse, which is now decayed, and the wals part
ouerthrowen, which a Turkish Rouer with certaine gallies did destroy about
10. or 12. yeeres past. [Sidenote: Caualette is a certaine vermine in the
Island of Cyprus.] This day walking to see the towne, we chanced to see in
the market place, a great quantitie of certaine vermine called in the
Italian tongue Caualette. It is as I can learne, both in shape and bignesse
like a grassehopper, for I can iudge but little difference. Of these many
yeeres they haue had such quantitie that they destroy all their corne. They
are so plagued with them, that almost euery yeere they doe well nie loose
halfe their corne, whether it be the nature of the countrey, or the plague
of God, that let them iudge that can best define. But that there may no
default be laied to their negligence for the destruction of them, they haue
throughout the whole land a constituted order, that euery Farmor or
husbandmen (which are euen as slaues bought and sold to their lord) shall
euery yeere pay according to his territorie, a measure full of the seede or
egges of these forenamed Caualette, the which they are bound to bring to
the market, and present to the officer appointed for the same, the which
officer taketh of them very straight measure, and writeth the names of the
presenters, and putteth the sayd egges or seed, into a house appointed for
the same, and hauing the house full, they beate them to pouder, and cast
them into the sea, and by this pollicie they doe as much as in them lieth
for the destruction of them. This vermine breedeth or ingendereth at the
time of corne being ripe, and the corne beyng had away, in the clods of the
same ground do the husbandmen find the nestes, or, as I may rather terme
them, cases of the egges, of the same vermine. Their nests are much like to
the keies of a hasel-nut tree, when they be dried, and of the same length,
but somewhat bigger, which case being broken you shall see the egges lie
much like vnto antes egges, but somewhat lesser. This much I haue written
at this time, because I had no more time of knowledge, but I trust at my
returne to note more of this island, with the commodities of the same at
large.
[Sidenote: The pilgrimes going to the Greeke churches.] The 13. day we went
in the morning to the Greeks church, to see the order of their ceremonies,
and of their communion, of the which to declare the whole order with the
number of their ceremonious crossings, it were to long. Wherefore least I
should offend any man, I leaue it vnwritten: but onely that I noted well,
that in all their Communion or seruice, not one did euer kneele, nor yet in
any of their Churches could I euer see any grauen images, but painted or
portrayed. Also they haue store of lampes alight, almost for euery image
one. Their women are alwayes separated from the men, and generally they are
in the lower ende of the Church. This night we went aboord the ship,
although the wind were contrary, we did it because the patrone should not
find any lacke of vs, as sometimes he did: when as tarying vpon his owne
businesse, he would colour it with the delay of the pilgrimes.
The 14. day in the morning we set saile, and lost sight of the Island of
Cyprus, and the 15. day we were likewise at Sea, and sawe no land: and the
16. day towards night, we looked for land, but we sawe none. But because we
supposed our selues to be neere our port, we tooke in all our sailes except
onely the foresaile and the mizzen, and so we remained all that night.
The 17. day in the morning, we kept by report of the Mariners, some sixe
miles from Iaffa, but it prooued contrary. But because we would be sure,
wee made to an anker seuen miles from the shore, and sent the skiffe with
the Pilot and the master gunner, to learne the coast, but they returned,
not hauing seen tree nor house, nor spoken with any man. But when they came
to the sea side againe, they went vp a little hill standing hard by the
brinke, whereon as they thought, they sawe the hill of Ierusalem, by the
which the Pilot knew (after his iudgement) that we were past our port. And
so this place where we rode was, as the mariners sayd, about 50. mile from
Iaffa. This coast all alongst is very lowe, plaine, white, sandie, and
desert, for which cause it hath fewe markes or none, so that we rode here
as it were in a gulfe betweene two Capes.
[Sidenote: A great currant.] The 18. day we abode still at anker, looking
for a gale to returne backe, but it was contrary: and the 19. we set saile,
but the currant hauing more force then the winde, we were driuen backe,
insomuch that the ship being vnder saile, we cast the sounding lead, and
(notwithstanding the wind) it remained before the shippe, there wee had
muddie ground at fifteene fadome. The same day about 4. of the clocke, wee
set saile againe, and sayled West alongst the coast with a fresh
side-winde. [Sidenote: A Cat fallen into the sea and recouered.] It chanced
by fortune that the shippes Cat lept into the Sea, which being downe, kept
her selfe very valiauntly aboue water, notwithstanding the great waues,
still swimming, the which the master knowing, he caused the Skiffe with
halfe a dozen men to goe towards her and fetch her againe, when she was
almost halfe a mile from the shippe, and all this while the ship lay on
staies. I hardly beleeue they would haue made such haste and meanes if one
of the company had bene in the like perill. They made the more haste
because it was the patrons cat. This I haue written onely to note the
estimation that cats are in, among the Italians, for generally they esteeme
their cattes, as in England we esteeme a good Spaniell. The same night
about tenne of the clocke the winde calmed, and because none of the shippe
knewe where we were, we let fall an anker about 6 mile from the place we
were at before, and there wee had muddie ground at twelue fathome.
The 20 it was still calme, and the current so strong still one way, that we
were not able to stemme the streame: moreouer we knew not where we were,
whereupon doubting whither wee were past, or short of our port, the Master,
Pilot, and other Officers of the shippe entered into counsell what was best
to doe, wherevpon they agreed to sende the bote on lande againe, to seeke
some man to speake with all, but they returned as wise as they went. Then
we set sayle againe and sounded euery mile or halfe mile, and found still
one depth, so we not knowing where we were, came againe to an anker, seuen
or eight miles by West from the place we were at. Thus still doubting where
we were, the bote went on land againe, and brought newes that wee were
short 80 miles of the place, whereas we thought wee had beene ouershot by
east fiftie miles. Thus in these doubts we lost foure dayes, and neuer a
man in the shippe able to tell where we were, notwithstanding there were
diuerse in the shippe that had beene there before. [Sidenote: They met with
two Moores on land.] Then sayd the Pylot, that at his comming to the shore,
by chance he saw two wayfaring men, which were Moores, and he cryed to them
in Turkish, insomuch that the Moores, partly for feare, and partly for
lacke of vnderstanding, (seeing them to be Christians) beganne to flie, yet
in the end with much a doe, they stayed to speake with them, which men when
they came together, were not able to vnderstand ech other, but our men made
to them the signe of the Crosse on the sande, to giue them to vnderstand
that they were of the shippe that brought the pilgrims. Then the Moores
knowing (as al the country else doth) that it was the vse of Christians to
go to Ierusalem, shewed them to be yet by west of Iaffa. Thus we remained
ail that night at anker, and the farther west that we sayled, the lesse
water we had.
The 21 we set sayle againe and kept our course Northeast, but because we
would not goe along the shore by night, wee came to an anker in foure and
twentie fathome water. [Sidenote: The two towers of Iaffa. Scolio di Santo
Petro.] Then the next morning being the 22 we set sayle againe, and kept
our course as before, and about three of the clocke in the afternoone, wee
had sight of the two towers of Iaffa, and about fiue of the clocke, wee
were with a rocke, called in the Italian tongue, Scolio di Santo Petro, on
the which rocke they say he fished, when Christ bid him cast his net on the
right side, and caught so many fishes. This rocke is now almost worne away.
It is from Iaffa two or three mile: here before the two towers we came to
an anker. Then the pilgrimes after supper, in salutation of the holy lande,
sang to the prayse of God, Te Deum laudamus, with Magnificat, and
Benedictus, but in the shippe was a Frier of Santo Francisco, who for anger
because he was not called and warned, would not sing with vs, so that he
stood so much vpon his dignitie, that he forgot his simplicitie, and
neglected his deuotion to the holy land for that time, saying that first
they ought to haue called him yer they did beginne, because he was a Fryer,
and had beene there, and knewe the orders.
[Sidenote: A messenger departeth for Ierusalem.] The 23 we sent the bote on
land with a messenger to the Padre Guardian of Ierusalem. [Sidenote:
Mahomet is clothed in green.] This day it was notified vnto mee by one of
the shippe that had beene a slaue in Turkie, that no man might weare greene
in this land, because their prophet Mahomet went in greene. This came to my
knowledge by reason of the Scriuanello, who had a greene cap, which was
forbidden him to weare on the land.
The 24. 25. and 26 we taryed in the shippe still looking for the comming of
the Padre guardian, and the 26 at night we had a storme which lasted all
the next day.
[Sidenote: The Guardian of Ierusalem commeth to Iaffa, with the Cady, and
Subassi.] The 27 in the morning, came the Cadi, the Subassi, and the
Meniwe, with the Padre guardian, but they could not come at vs by reason of
the stormy weather: in the afternoone we assayed to send the bote on land,
but the weather would not suffer us. Then againe towards night the bote
went a shore, but it returned not that night. [Sidenote: A cloud called of
the Italians Cion most dangerous.] The same day in the afternoone we sawe
in the element, a cloud with a long tayle, like vnto the tayle of a
serpent, which cloud is called in Italian Cion, the tayle of this cloud did
hang as it were into the sea: and we did see the water vnder the sayde
cloude ascend, as it were like a smoke or myste, the which this Cion drew
vp to it. The Marriners reported to vs that it had this propertie, that if
it should happen to haue lighted on any part of the shippe, that it would
rent and wreth sayles, mast, shroudes and shippe and all in manner like a
wyth: on the land, trees, houses, in whatsoeuer else it lighteth on, it
would rent and wreth. [Sidenote: A coniuration.] These marriners did vse a
certaine coniuration to breake the said tayle, or cut it in two, which as
they say doth preuaile. They did take a blacke hafted knife, and with the
edge of the same did crosse the said taile as if they would cut it in
twain, saying these words, Hold thou Cion, eat this, and then they stucke
the knife on the ship side with the edge towards the said cloude, and I saw
it therewith vanish in lesse than one quarter of an houre. But whether it
was then consumed, or whether by vertue of the Inchantment it did vanish I
knowe not, but it was gone. Hereof let them iudge that know more then I.
This afternoone we had no winde, but the sea very stormy, insomuch that
neither cheste, pot, nor any thing else could stand in the shippe, and wee
were driuen to keepe our meate in one hand, and the pot in the other, and
so sit downe vpon the hatches to eate, for stand we could not, for that the
Seas in the very port at an anker went so high as if wee had bene in the
bay of Portugall with stormy weather. The reason is, as the Mariners said
to me, because that there meete all the waues from all places of the
Straights of Gibralter, and there breake, and that in most calmes there go
greatest seas, whether the winde blow or not.
The 28. the weather growing somewhat calme, we went on land and rested our
selues for that day, and the next day we set forward toward the city of
Ierusalem.
What I did, and what places of deuotion I visited in Ierusalem, and other
parts of the Holy land, from this my departure from Iaffa, vntill my
returne to the said port, may briefly be seene in my Testimoniall, vnder
the hand and seale of the Vicar generall of Mount Sion, which for the
contentment of the Reader I thought good here to interlace.
Vniuersis et singulis praesentes litteras inspecturis salutem in Domino
nostro Iesu Christo. Attestamur vobis ac alijs quibuscunque qualiter
honorabilis vir Iohannes Lok ciuis Londoniensis, filius honorabilis viri
Guilhelmi Lok equitis aurati, ad sacratissima terrae sanctae loca
personaliter se contulit, sanctissimum Domini nostri Iesu Christi
sepulchrum, equo die tertia gloriosus a mortuis resurrexit, sacratissimum
Caluariae montem, in quo pro nobis omnibus cruci affixus mori dignatus est,
Sion etiam montem vbi coenam illam mirificam cum discipulis suis fecit, et
vbi spiritus sanctus in die sancto Pentecostes in discipulos eosdem in
linguis igneis descendit, Oliuetique montem vbi mirabiliter coelos
ascendit, intemeratae virginis Mariae Mausoleum in Iosaphat vallis medio
situm, Bethaniam quoque Bethlehem ciuitatem Dauid in qua de purissima
virgine Maria natus est, ibique inter animalia reclinatus, pluraque loca
alia tam in Hierusalem ciuitate sancta terre Iudaeae, quam extra, a modernis
peregrinis visitari solita, deuotissime visitauit, pariterque adorauit. In
quorum fidem, ego frater Anthonius de Bergamo ordinis fratrum minorum
regularis obseruantiae prouinciae diui Anthonij Sacri conuentus montis Sion
vicarius (licet indignus) necnon aliorum locorum terrae Sanctae, apostolica
authoritate comissarius et rector, has Sigillo maiori nostri officij
nostraque subscriptione muniri volui. Datum Hierosolymis apud sacratissimum
domini coenaculum in saepe memorato monte Sion, Anno Domini millesimo
quingentesimo, quinquagesimo tertio, die vero sexto mensis Septembris.
Frater Antonius qui supra.
[Sidenote: The pilgrims returne from Ierusalem. Mount Carmel.] The 15. of
September being come from our pilgrimage, we went aborde our shippe, and
set saile, and kept our course West toward the Island of Cyprus, but al
that night it was calme, and the 16. the winde freshed, and we passed by
Mount Carmel.
The 17. the winde was very scant, yet we kept the sea, and towards night
wee had a guste of raine whereby wee were constrained to strike our sailes,
but it was not very stormie, nor lasted very long.
The 18. 19. 20. and 21. we kept still the sea and saw no land because we
had very little winde, and that not very fauourable.
The 22. at noone the Boatswaine sent some of the Mariners into the boat,
(which we toed asterne from Iaffa) for certaine necessaries belonging to
the ship, wherein the Mariners found a certaine fish in proportion like a
Dace, about 6 inches long (yet the Mariners said they had seene the like a
foote long and more) the which fish had on euery side a wing, and toward
the taile two other lesser as it were finnes, on either side one, but in
proportion they were wings and of a good length. These wings grow out
betweene the gils and the carkasse of the same fish. [Sidenote: Pesce
columbini.] They are called in the Italian tongue Pesce columbini, for in
deede, the wings being spred it is like to a flying doue, they say it will
flie farre and very high. So it seemeth that being weary of her flight she
fell into the boate, and not being able to rise againe died there.
The 23. 24. and 25. we sailed our direct course with a small gale of winde,
and this day we had sight of the Island of Cyprus. [Sidenote: Cauo de la
Griega.] The first land that we discouered was a headland called Cauo de la
Criega, and about midnight we ankered by North of the Gape. This cape is a
high hil, long and square, and on the East corner it hath a high cop, that
appeareth vnto those at the sea, like a white cloud, for toward the sea it
is white, and it lieth into the sea Southwest. This coast of Cyprus is high
declining toward the sea, but it hath no cliffes.
The 26. we set saile againe, and toward noone we came into the port of
Salini, where we went on land and lodged that night at a towne one mile
from thence called Arnacho di Salini, this is but a village called in
Italian, Casalia. This is distant from Iaffa 250. Italian miles.
The 27. we rested, and the 28. we hired horses to ride from Arnacho to
Sulina, which is a good mile. The salt pit is very neere two miles in
compasse, very plaine and leuell, into the which they let runne at the time
of raine a quantitie of water comming from the mountaines, which water is
let in vntil the pit be full to a certaine marke, which when it is full,
the rest is conueyed by a trench into the sea. The water is let runne in
about October, or sooner or later, as the time of the yeere doth afforde.
There they let it remaine vntill the ende of Iuly or the middest of August,
out of which pits at that time, in stead of water that they let in they
gather very faire white salt, without any further art or labour, for it is
only done by the great heate of the sunne. This the Venetians haue, and doe
maintaine to the vse of S. Marke, and the Venetian ships that come to this
Island are bound to cast out their ballast, and to lade with salt for
Venice. Also there may none in all the Iland buy salt but of these men, who
maintaine these pits for S. Marke. This place is watched by night with 6.
horsemen to the end it be not stolne by night. Also vnder the Venetians
dominions no towne may spende any salt, but they must buy it of Saint
Marke, neither may any man buy any salt at one towne to carie to another,
but euery one must buy his salt in the towne where he dwelleth. Neither may
any man in Venice buy more salt then he spendeth in the city, for if he be
knowen to carte but one ounce out of the due and be accused, hee looseth an
eare. The most part of all the salt they haue in Venice commeth from these
Salines, and they have it so plentifull, that they are not able, neuer a
yeere to gather the one halfe, for they onely gather in Iuly, August, and
September, and not fully these three moneths. Yet notwithstanding the
abundance that the shippes carie away yeerely, there remaine heapes like
hilles, some heapes able to lade nine or tenne shippes, and there are
heapes of two yeeres gathering, some of three and some of nine or tenne
yeeres making, to the value of a great somme of golde, and when the ships
do lade, they neuer take it by measure, but when they come at Venice they
measure it. This salt as it lyeth in the pit is like so much ice, and it is
sixe inches thicke: they digge it with axes, and cause their slaues to cary
it to the heapes. This night at midnight we rode to Famagusta, which is
eight leagues from Salina, which is 24 English miles.
The 29 about two houres before day we alighted at Famagusta, and after we
were refreshed we went to see the towne. This is a very faire strong holde,
and the strongest and greatest in the Iland. The walks are faire and new,
and strongly rampired with foure principall bulwarkes, and bettweene them
turrions responding one to another, these walks did the Venetians make.
They haue also on the hauen side of it a Castle, and the hauen is chained,
the citie hath onely two gates, to say, one for the lande and another for
the sea, they haue in the towne continually, be it peace or warres, 800
souldiers, and fortie and sixe gunners, besides Captaines, petie Captaines,
Gouernour and Generall The lande gate hath alwayes fiftie souldiers, pikes
and gunners with their harnes, watching thereat night and day. At the sea
gate fiue and twenties upon the walles euery night doe watch fifteene men
in watch houses, for euery watch house fiue men, and in the market place 30
souldiers continually. There may no souldier serue there aboue 5 yeres,
neither will they without friendship suffer them to depart afore 5. yeres
be expired, and there may serue of all nations except Greekes. [Sidenote:
Morenigo.] They haue euery pay which is 45 dayes, 15 Morenigos, which is 15
shillings sterling. [Sidenote: Solde of Venice] Their horsemen haue only
sixe soldes Venetian a day, and prouender for their horses, but truth I
maruell how they liue being so hardly fed, for all the sommer they feede
only vpon chopt strawe and barley, for hay they haue none, and yet they be
faire, fat and seruiceable. [Sidenote: Castellani] The Venetians send euery
two yeres new rulers, which they call Castellani. The towne hath allotted
it also two gallies continually armed and furnished.
[Sidenote: Saint Katherens Chappel in old Famagusta.] The 30. in the
morning we ridde to a chappell, where they say Saint Katherin was borne.
This Chappell is in olde Famagusta, the which was destroyed by Englishmen,
and is cleane ouerthrowne to the ground, to this day desolate and not
inhabited by any person, it was of a great circuit, and there be to this
day mountaines of faire, great, and strong buildings, and not onely there,
but also in many places of the Iland. [Sidenote: Diuvers coines vnder
ground.] Moreouer when they digge, plowe, or trench they finde sometimes
olde antient coines, some of golde, some of siluer, and some of copper, yea
and many tombes and vautes with sepulchers in them. This olde Famagusta is
from the other, foure miles, and standeth on a hill, but the new towne on a
plaine. [Sidenote: Cornari, a family of Venice maried to king Iaques.]
Thence we returned to new Famagusta againe to dinner, and toward euening we
went about the towne, and in the great Church we sawe the tombe of king
Iaques, which was the last king of Cyprus, and was buried in the yere of
Christ one thousand foure hundred seuentie and three, and had to wife one
of the daughters of Venice, of the house of Cornari, the which family at
this day hath great reuenues in this Island, and by means of that mariage
the Venetians, chalenge the kingdome of Cyprus.