The Principal Navigations, Voyages, Traffiques, - Richard Hakluyt
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The first of October in the morning, we went to see the reliefe of the
watches. That done, we went to one of the Greekes Churches to see a pot or
Iarre of stone, which is sayd to bee one of the seuen Iarres of water, the
which the Lord God at the mariage conuerted into wine. It is a pot of earth
very faire, white enamelled, and faireiy wrought vpon with drawen worke,
and hath on either side of it, instead of handles, eares made in fourme as
the painters make angels wings, it was about an elle high, and small at the
bottome, with a long necke and correspondent in circuit to the botome, the
belly very great and round, it holdeth full twelue gallons, and hath a
tap-hole to drawe wine out thereat, the Iarre is very auncient, but whether
it be one of them or no, I know not. The aire of Famagusta is very
vnwholesome, as they say, by reason of certaine marish ground adioyning
vnto it. They haue also a certaine yeerely sicknesse raigning in the same
towne, aboue all the rest of the Island: yet neuerthelesse, they haue it in
other townes, but not so much. It is a certaine rednesse and paine of the
eyes, the which if it bee not quickly holpen, it taketh away their sight,
so that yeerely almost in that towne, they haue about twentie that lose
their sight, either of one eye or both, and it commeth for the most part in
this moneth of October, and the last moneth: for I haue met diuers times
three and foure at once in companies, both men and women. [Sidenote: No
vitailes must be sold out of the city of Famagusta.] Their liuing is better
cheape in Famagusta then in any other place of the Island, because there
may no kinde of prouision within their libertie bee solde out of the Citie.
The second of October we returned to Arnacho, where wee rested vntill the
sixt day. [Sidenote: Greate ruines in Cyprus.] This towne is a pretie
Village, there are thereby toward the Sea side diuers monuments, that there
hath bene great ouerthrow of buildings, for to this day there is no yere
when they finde not, digging vnder ground, either coines, caues, and
sepulcres of antiquities, as we walking, did see many, so that in effect,
all alongst the Sea coast, throughout the whole Island, there is much ruine
and ouerthrow of buildings, [Sidenote: Cyprus 36. yeres disinhabited for
lacke of water.] for as they say, it was disinhabited sixe and thirtie
yeres, before Saint Helens time for lacke of water. [Sidenote: Cypr.
ruinated by Rich. the I.] And since that time it hath bene ruinated and
ouerthrowen by Richard the first of that name king of England, which he did
in reuenge of his sisters rauishment comming to Ierusalem, the which
inforcement was done to her by the king of Famagusta.
The sixt day we rid to Nicosia, which is from Arnacho seuen Cyprus miles,
which are one and twentie Italian miles. This is the ancientest citie of
the Iland, and is walled about, but it is not strong neither of walles nor
situation: It is by report three Cyprus miles about, it is not throughly
inhabited, but hath many great gardens in it, and also very many Date
trees, and plentie of Pomegranates and other fruites. There dwell all the
Gentilitie of the Island, and there hath euery Cauallier or Conte of the
Island an habitation. [Sidenote: A fountaine that watereth al the gardens
in the citie.] There is in this citie one fountaine rented by saint Marke,
which is bound euery eight dayes once, to water all the gardens in the
towne, and the keeper of this fountaine hath for euery tree a Bizantin,
which is twelue soldes Venice, and sixpence sterling. [Sidenote: A Bizantin
is 6. d. sterling.] He that hath that to farme, with a faire and profitable
garden thereto belonging, paieth euery yeere to saint Marke, fifteene
hundred crownes. The streetes of the citie are not paued, which maketh it
with the quantitie of the gardens, to seeme but a rurall habitation. But
there be many faire buildings in the Citie, there be also Monasteries both
of Franks and Greekes. [Sidenote: S. Sophia is a Cathedral church of
Nicosia.] The Cathedrall church is called Santa Sophia, in the which there
is an old tombe of Iaspis stone, all of one piece, made in forme of a
cariage coffer, twelue spannes long, sixe spannes broad, and seuen spannes
high, which they say was found vnder ground. It is as faire a stone as euer
I haue seene.
The seuenth day we rid to a Greeke Frierie halfe a mile without the towne.
It is a very pleasaunt place, and the Friers feasted vs according to their
abilitie. These Friers are such as haue bene Priests, and their wiues dying
they must become Friers of this place, and neuer after eate flesh, for if
they do, they are depriued from saying masse: neither, after they haue
taken vpon them this order, may they marry againe, but they may keepe a
single woman. These Greekish Friers are very continent and chast, and
surely I haue seldome seen (which I haue well noted) any of them fat.
The 8. day we returned to Arnacho, and rested there. [Sidenote: Monte de la
Croce.] The 9. after midnight my company rid to the hill called Monte de la
Croce (but I not disposed would not go) which hill is from Arnacho 15.
Italian miles. Vpon the sayd hill is a certaine crosse, which is, they say,
a holy Crosse. This Crosse in times past did by their report of the Island,
hang in the ayre, but by a certaine earthquake, the crosse and the chappeil
it hung in, were ouerthrowen, so that neuer since it would hang againe in
the aire. But it is now couered with siluer, and hath 3. drops of our
lordes blood on it (as they say) and there is in the midst of the great
crosse, a little crosse made of the crosse of Christ; but it is closed in
the siluer, you must (if you will) beleeue it is so, for see it you cannot.
This crosse hangeth nowe by both endes in the wall, that you may swing it
vp and downe, in token that it did once hang in the aire. This was told me
by my fellow pilgrimes, for I sawe it not.
The 10. at night we went aboard by warning of the patron: and the 11. in
the morning we set saile, and crept along the shore, but at night we
ankered by reason of contrary windes.
[Sidenote: Limisso.] The 12. we set saile toward Limisso, which is from
Salines 50. miles, and there we went on land that night.
The 13. and 14. we remained still on land, and the 15. the patrone sent for
vs; but by reason that one of our company was not well, we went not
presently, but we were forced afterward to hire a boate, and to ouertake
the ship tenne miles into the sea. At this Limisso all the Venetian ships
lade wine for their prouision, and some for to sell, and also vineger.
[Sidenote: Carrobi.] They lade also great store of Carrobi: for all the
countrey thereabout adioning, and all the mountaines are full of Carrobi
trees, they lade also cotton wooll there. [Sidenote: Vulture.] In the sayd
towne we did see a certaine foule of the land (whereof there are many in
this Island) named in the Italian tongue Vulture. It is a foule that is as
big as a Swanne, and it liueth vpon carion. The skinne is full of soft
doune, like to a fine furre, which they vse to occupie when they haue euill
stomocks, and it maketh good digestion. This bird (as they say) will eat as
much at one meale as shall serue him fortie dayes after, and within the
compasse of that time careth for no more meate. The countrey people, when
they have any dead beast, they cary it into the mountaines, or where they
suppose the sayd Vultures to haunt, they seeing the carion doe immediately
greedily seize vpon it, and doe so ingraft their talents, that they cannot
speedily rise agayne, by reason whereof the people come and kill them:
sometimes they kill them with dogs, and sometimes with such weapons as they
haue. This foule is very great and hardy, much like an Eagle in the
feathers of her wings and backe, but vnder her great feathers she is onely
doune, her necke also long and full of doune. She hath on the necke bone,
betweene the necke and the shoulders a heape of fethers like a Tassell, her
thighs vnto her knees are couered with doune, her legs strong and great,
and dareth with her talents assault a man. [Sidenote: Great pleny of very
fat birds.] They haue also in this Island a certaine small bird, much like
vnto a Wagtaile in fethers and making, these are so extreme fat that you
can perceiue nothing els in all their bodies: these birds are now in
season. They take great quantitie of them, and they vse to pickle them with
vineger and salt, and to put them in pots and send them to Venice and other
places of Italy for presents of great estimation. They say they send almost
1200. Iarres or pots to Venice, besides those which are consumed in the
Island, which are a great number. These are so plentifull that when there
is no shipping, you may buy then for 10. Carchies, which coine are 4. to a
Venetian Soldo, which is peny farthing the dozen, and when there is store
of shipping, 2 pence the dozen, after that rate of their money. [Sidenote:
The Famagustans obserue the French statutes.] They of the limites of
Famagusta do keep the statutes of the Frenchmen which sometimes did rule
there. And the people of Nicosia, obserue the order of the Genoueses, who
sometimes also did rule them. All this day we lay in the sea with little
wind.
The 16. we met a Venetian ship, and they willing to speake with vs, and we
with them, made towards each other, but by reason of the euil stirrage of
the other ship, we had almost boorded each other to our great danger.
[Sidenote: Cauo Bianco.] Toward night we ankered vnder Cauo Bianco, but
because the winde grew faire, we set saile againe presently.
[Sidenote: Another Cion.] The 17. 18. 19, and 20 we were at sea with calme
sommer weather, and the 20. we had some raine, and saw another Cion in the
element. [Sidenote: A ship called el Bonna.] This day also we sawe, and
spake with a Venetian ship called el Bonna, bound for ciprus.
The 21. we sailed with a reasonable gale, and saw no land vntil the 4. of
Nouember. [Sidenote: A great tempest.] This day we had raine, thunder,
lightening, and much wind and stormie weather, but God be praised we
escaped all dangers.
[Sidenote: Candia, Gozi.] The 4. of Nouember we had sight of the Island of
Candia, and we fell with the Islands called Gozi, by south of Candia.
[Sidenote: Antonie Gelber departed this life.] This day departed this
present life, one of our company named Anthonie Gelber of Prussia, who
onely tooke his surfet of Cyprus wine. This night we determined to ride a
trie, because the wind was contrary, and the weather troublesome.
The 5. we had very rough stormie weather. This day was the sayd Anthonie
Gelber sowed in a Chauina filled with stones and throwen into the sea. By
reason of the freshnes of the wind we would haue made toward the shore, but
the wind put vs to the sea, where we endured a great storme and a
troublesome night.
The 6. 7. and 8. we were continually at the sea, and this day at noone the
wind came faire, whereby we recouered the way which we had lost, and sayled
out of sight of Candia.
[Sidenote: Cauo Matapan. Modon.] The 9. we sailed all day with a prosperous
wind after 14. mile an houre: and the 10. in the morning, wee had sight of
Cauo Matapan, and by noone of Cauo Gallo, in Morea, with which land we made
by reason of contrary wind, likewise we had sight of Modon, vnder the which
place we ankered. This Modon is a strong towne, and built into the sea,
with a peere for litle ships and galleis to harbour in. [Sidenote:
Sapientia.] It hath on the South side of the chanell, the Iland of
Sapientia, with other litle Ilands all disinhabited. The chanell lieth
Southwest and Northeast betweene the Islands and Morea, which is firme
land. This Modon was built by the Venetians, but as some say it was taken
from them by force of the Turke, and others say by composition: [Sidenote:
Coron. Napolis de Romania.] in like case Coron, and Napolis de Romania,
which is also in Morea. This night the Flemmish pilgrimes being drunke,
would have slaine the patrone because he ankered here.
The 11. day we set saile againe, and as we passed by Modon, we saluted them
with ordinance, for they that passe by this place, must salute with
ordinance, (if they haue) or els by striking their top sailes, for if they
doe not, the towne will shoot at them. [Sidenote: Prodeno. Zante and
Cephalonia.] This day toward 2. of the clocke wee passed by the Island of
Prodeno, which is but litle, and desert, vnder the Turke. About 2. houres
before night, we had sight of the Islands of Zante and Cephalonia, which
are from Modon one hundreth miles.
The 12. day in the morning, with the wind at West, we doubled between
Castle Torneste, and the Island of Zante. [Sidenote: Castle Torneste vnder
the Turke.] This castle is on the firme land vnder the Turke. This night we
ankered afore the towne of Zante, where we that night went on land, and
rested there the 13. 14. and 15. at night we were warned aboord by the
patrone. This night the ship tooke in vitailes and other necessaries.
The 16. in the morning we set saile with a prosperous wind, and the 17. we
had sight of Cauo de santa Maria in Albania on our right hand, and Corfu on
the left hand. This night we ankered before the castles of Corfu, and went
on land and refreshed our selues.
[Sidenote: The description of the force of Corfu.] The 18. by meanes of a
friend we were licenced to enter the castle or fortresse of Corfu, which is
not onely of situation the strongest I haue seene, but also of edification.
It hath for the Inner warde two strong castles situated on the top of two
high cragges of a rocke, a bow shoot distant the one from the other: the
rocke is vnassaultable, for the second warde it hath strong walles with
rampiers and trenches made as well as any arte can deuise. For the third
warde and vttermost, it hath very strong walles with rampires of the rocke
it selfe cut out by force and trenched about with the sea. The bulwarkes of
the vttermost warde are not yet finished, which are in number but two:
there are continually in the castle seuen hundred souldiours. Also it hath
continually foure wardes, to wit, for the land entrie one, for the sea
entrie another, and two other wardes. Artillerie and other munition of
defence alwayes readie planted it hath sufficient, besides the store
remaining in their storehouses. The Venetians hold this for the key of all
their dominions, and for strength it may be no lesse. This Island is very
fruitfull and plentifull of wine and corne very good, and oliues great
store. This Island is parted from Albania with a chanell, in some places
eight and ten, and in other but three miles. Albania is vnder the Turke,
but in it are many Christians. All the horseman of Corfu are Albaneses; the
Island is not aboue 80. or 90. miles in compasse.
The 19. 20. and 21. we remained in the towne of Corfu.
The 22. day wee went aboord and set saile, the wind being very calme wee
toed the ship all that day, and toward Sunne set, the castle sent a
Fragatta vnto us to giue vs warning of three Foistes comming after vs, for
whose comming wee prepared and watched all night, but they came not.
The 23. day in the morning being calme, wee toed out of the Streight,
vntill wee came to the olde towne, whereof there is no thing standing but
the walles. There is also a new Church of the Greekes called Santa Maria di
Cassopo, and the townes name is called Cassopo. It is a good porte. About
noone wee passed the Streight, and drew toward the ende of the Iland,
hauing almost no wind. This night after supper, by reason of a certaine
Hollander that was drunke, there arose in the ship such a troublesome
disturbance, that all the ship was in an vprore with weapons, and had it
not bene rather by Gods helpe, and the wisedome and patience of the
patrone, more then by our procurement, there had bene that night a great
slaughter. But as God would, there was no hurt, but onely the beginner was
put vnder hatches, and with the fall hurt his face very sore. All that
night the wind blew at Southeast, and sent vs forward.
The 24. in the morning wee found ourselues before an Island called Saseno,
which is in the entrie to Valona, and the wind prosperous.
The 25. day we were before the hils of Antiueri, and about sunne set wee
passed Ragusa, and three houres within night we ankered within Meleda,
hauing Sclauonia or Dalmatia on the right hand of vs, and the winde
Southwest.
The 26. in the morning we set sayle, and passed the chanell between
Sclauonia and Meleda, which may be eight mile ouer at the most. This Iland
is vnder the Raguses. At after noone with a hard gale at west and by north
we entered the chanell betweene the Iland Curzola and the hilles of
Dalmatia, in which channell be many rockes, and the channell not past 3
miles ouer, and we ankered before the towne of Curzolo. This is a pretie
towne walled about and built vpon the sea side, hauing on the toppe of a
round hill a faire Church. This Iland is vnder the Venetians, there grow
very good vines, also that part toward Dalmatia is well peopled and
husbanded, especially for wines. In the said Iland we met with the Venetian
armie, to wit, tennie gallies, and three foystes. All that night we
remained there.
The 27 we set sayle and passed along the Iland, and towards afternoone we
passed in before the Iland of Augusta, and about sunne set before the towne
of Lesina, whereas I am informed by the Italians, they take all the
Sardinas that they spend in Italy. This day we had a prosperous winde at
Southeast. The Iland of Lesina is vnder the Venetians, a very fruitfull
Iland adioyning to the maine of Dalmatia, we left it on our right hand, and
passed along.
[Sidenote: The gulfe of Quernero. Rouigno.] The 28 in the morning we were
in the Gulfe of Quernero, and about two houres after noone we were before
the cape of Istria, and at sunne set we were at anker afore Rouignio which
is also in Istria and vnder the Venetians, where all ships Venetian and
others are bound by order from Venice to take in their pilots to goe for
Venice. All the sommer the Pilots lie at Rouignio, and in winter at
Parenzo, which is from Rouignio 18 miles by West.
[Sidenote: Parenzo.] The 29 we set sayle and went as farre as Parenzo, and
ankered there that day, and went no further.
[Sidenote: S. Nicolo an Iland.] The 30 in the morning we rowed to Sant
Nicolo a litle Island hard by vninhabited, but only it hath a Monastery,
and is full of Oliue trees, after masse wee returned and went aboord. This
day we hired a Barke to imbarke the pilgrims for Venice, but they departed
not. In the afternoone we went to see the towne of Parenzo, it is a pretie
handsome towne, vnder the Venetians. After supper wee imbarked our selues
againe, and that night wee sayled towardes Venice.
The first of December we past a towne of the Venetians, standing on the
entery to the Palude or marshes of Venice: which towne is called Caorle,
and by contrary windes we were driuen thither to take port. This is 60
miles from Parenzo, and forty from Venice, there we remayned that night.
The second two houres before day, with the winde at Southeast, we sayled
towards Venice, where we arriued (God be praysed) at two of the clocke
after dinner, and landed about foure, we were kept so long from landing,
because we durst not land vntill we had presented to the Prouidor de la
Sanita, our letter of health.
* * * * *
The first voyage or iourney, made by Master Laurence Aldersey, Marchant of
London, to the Cities of Ierusalem, and Tripolis, &c. in the yeere 1581.
Penned and set downe by himselfe.
I departed from London the first day of April in the yeere of our Lord
1581, passing through the Nether-land and vp the riuer Rhene by Colen, and
other cities of Germanie. And vpon Thursday, the thirde day of May, I came
to Augusta, where I deliuered the letter I had to Master Ienise, and Master
Castler, whom I found very willing to pleasure me, in any thing that I
could or would reasonably demaund. He first furnished me with a horse to
Venice, for my money, and then tooke me with him a walking, to shew me the
Citie, for that I had a day to tary there, for him that was to be my guide.
He shewed me first the Statehouse, which is very faire, and beautiful: then
be brought mee to the finest garden, and orchard, that euer I sawe in my
life: for there was in it a place for Canarie birdes, as large as a faire
Chamber, trimmed with wier both aboue and beneath, with fine little
branches of trees for them to sit in, vhich was full of those Canarie
birdes. There was such an other for Turtle dooues: also there were two
pigeon houses ioyning to them, hauing in them store of Turtle dooues and
pigeons. In the same garden also were sixe or seuen fishponds, all railed
about, and full of very good fish. Also, seuen or eight fine fountaines, or
water springs, of diuers fashions: as for fruite, there wanted none of all
sorts, as Orenges, figges, raisons, wallnuts, grapes, besides apples,
peares, fillbirds, small nuts, and such other fruite, as wee haue in
England.
Then did hee bring mee to the water tower of the same Citie, that by a
sleight and deuise hath the water brought vp as high as any Church in the
towne, and to tel you the strange deuises of all, it passeth my capacitie.
Then he brought me to another faire garden, called the Shooters hoose,
where are buts for the long bowe, the cross bowe, the stone bowe, the long
peece, and for diuers other exercises more.
After this, we walked about the walles of the Citie, where is a great,
broade, and deepe ditch, vpon one side of the towne, so full of fish, as
euer I saw any pond in my life, and it is reserued onely for the States of
the Citie. And vpon the other side of the Citie is also a deepe place all
greene, wherein Deere are kept, and when it pleaseth the States to hunt for
their pleasure, thither they resort, and haue their courses with
grayhounds, which are kept for that purpose.
The fift of May, I departed from Augusta towards Venice, and came thither
vpon Whitsunday the thirteenth of the same moneth. It is needlesse to
speake of the height of the mountaines that I passed ouer, and of the
danger thereof, it is so wel knowen already to the world: the heigth of
them is marueilous, and I was the space of sixe dayes in passing them.
I came to Venice at the time of a Faire, which lasted foureteene dayes,
wherein I sawe very many, and faire shewes of wares. I came thither too
short for the first passage, which went away from Venice about the seuenth
or eight of May, and with them about three score pilgrims, which shippe was
cast away at a towne called Estria, two miles from Venice, and all the men
in her, sauing thirtie, or thereabout, lost.
Within eight dayes after fell Corpus Christi day, which was a day amongst
them of procession, in which was shewed the plate and treasure of Venice,
which is esteemed to be worth two millions of pounds, but I do not accompt
it woorth halfe a quarter of that money, except there be more than I sawe.
To speake of the sumptuousnesse of the Copes and Vestments of the Church, I
leaue, but the trueth is, they be very sumptuous, many of them set all ouer
with pearle, and made of cloth of golde. And for the Iesuits, I thinke
there be as many at Venice, as there be in Colen.
The number of Iewes is there thought to be 1000, who dwell in a certaine
place of the Citie, and haue also a place, to which they resort to pray,
which is called the Iewes Sinagogue. They all, and their offspring vse to
weare red caps, (for so they are commaunded) because they may thereby be
knowen from other men. For my further knowledge of these people, I went
into their Sinagogue vpon a Saturday, which is their Sabbath day: and I
found them in their seruice or prayers, very deuoute: they receiue the fiue
bookes of Moses, and honour them by carying them about their Church, as the
Papists doe their crosse.
Their Synagogue is in forme round, and the people sit round about it, and
in the midst, there is a place for him that readeth to the rest: as for
their apparell, all of them weare a large white lawne ouer their garments,
which reacheth from their head, downe to the ground.
The Psalmes they sing as wee doe, hauing no image, nor vsing any maner of
idolatrie: their error is, that they beleeue not in Christ, nor yet receiue
the New Testament. This Citie of Venice is very faire, and greatly to bee
commended, wherein is good order for all things: and also it is very strong
and populous: it standeth vpon the maine Sea, and hath many Islands about
it, that belong to it.
To tell you of the duke of Venice, and of the Seigniory: there is one
chosen that euer beareth the name of a duke, but in trueth hee is but
seruant of his Seigniorie, for of himselfe hee can doe litle: it is no
otherwise with him, then with a Priest that is at Masse vpon a festiual
day, which putting on his golden garment, seemeth to be a great man, but if
any man come vnto him, and craue some friendship at his handes, hee will
say, you must goe to the Masters of the Parish, for I cannot pleasure you,
otherwise then by preferring to your suite: and so it is with the duke of
Venice, if any man hauing a suite, come to him and make his complaint, and
deliuer his supplication, it is not in him to helpe him, but hee will tell
him, You must come this day, or that day, and then I will preferre your
suite to the Seigniorie, and doe you the best friendship that I may.
Furthermore, if any man bring a letter vnto him, hee may not open it, but
in the presence of the Seigniorie, and they are to see it first, which
being read, perhaps they will deliuer it to him, perhaps not. Of the
Seigniory there be about three hundreth, and about fourtie of the priuie
Counsell of Venice, who vsually are arayed in gownes of crimsen Satten, or
crimsen Damaske, when they sit in Counsell.