A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Vol. II - Robert Kerr
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We remained undisturbed at this place till the 14th of April, when the
wind and weather becoming favourable, we got our bark from the creek, and
again resumed our voyage, and advanced near thirty miles the same day.
Towards evening the wind became again contrary, but we avoided the
dangers of an impending storm, by taking refuge amidst some reeds, among
which our mariners hauled the boat, so as to be out of danger from the
waves, and we made our way to the land through the reeds, in doing which
we were much fatigued and thoroughly drenched in water. We rested here
all that night and the day following, which was Easter day, having
nothing on which to commemorate that festival, except some butter, and a
few eggs which we fortunately gathered on the sandy beach. The mariners
and passengers were often inquisitive to know who I was; and, pursuant to
the advice of Marcus Ruffus, I passed myself among them as the physician
and servant of _Despima_, the consort of the grand duke of Moscovy, to
whom I was going. A short time after this, one of our mariners happened
to be afflicted by a large boil, and came to consult me in my assumed
character; and as I had the good fortune to discover some oil in our bark,
I made a poultice for him with bread and flour, by which he was soon
cured. From this circumstance they actually believed me to be a physician,
and were very anxious that I should remain among them; but Marcus drew me
out of this difficulty, by saying that I had no medicinal preparations
with me, but would soon return from Russia with a proper assortment.
[1] This name is probably corrupted for Bagration, or Bagrathion, which
was once the family name of the sovereigns of Georgia, and, if I
mistake not, there is, or was lately, a prince of that family and name
in the service of Russia.--E.
[2] The kingdom of Media in the text, is obviously meant to indicate the
province of Shirvan, on the west of the Caspian.--E.
[3] Perhaps Saray, on the eastern branch of the Wolga.--E.
[4] Probably Astracan is here meant.--E.
SECTION VII.
_Arrival of Contarini at Citracan, and journey from thence, through
several dangers among the Tartars, to Muscovy along with some merchants_.
On the 15th of April we put again to sea with a favourable wind, and
coasting along a series of reedy islands, we arrived on the 26th of that
month at the mouth of the Wolga, a large river which flows from Russia
into the Caspian. From the mouth of this river it is computed to be
seventy-six miles to the city of Citracan[1], which we reached on the
30th. Near this city there are excellent _salines_[2], from which all the
neighbouring provinces are supplied with salt. The Tartars who commanded
in the city would not permit us to enter that evening, so that we had to
pass the night in a hut without the walls. In the morning three broad-
faced Tartars came and ordered us to go along with them to their prince.
They treated Marcus with respect, saying that he was a friend of their
sovereign; but alleged that I was his slave, as they consider all the
Franks or Christians as their enemies. These news were most cruelly
mortifying for me, and afflicted me severely; but I was obliged to submit
in spite of me, and Marcus advised me to allow him to speak for me.
Forced in this manner to return disconsolate to my hut, I was long
exposed to every indignity and danger, to my great mortification and
distress. The Tartars insisted that I was possessed of pearls, and even
plundered me of some merchandize I had purchased in Derbent, intending to
have bartered it in this place for a good horse to carry me during the
rest of my journey. They informed me afterwards, by means of Marcus, that
they intended to sell us all to certain people whom they waited for, and
who were to go into Muscovy with other merchants. After many
mortifications and distresses, it was resolved to hold a grand
consultation concerning us at a large village named _Alermi_, about two
miles from the city, where their lord resided. At this time I was not
possessed of a single farthing, and was obliged to borrow money from the
Russian and Tartar merchants, at a high interest, to supply our urgent
necessities, for which Marcus became my bondsman.
One day, while Marcus was absent, the khan or prince of the Tartars[3],
broke open the door of our hut, and endeavoured to compel me by threats
to deliver up the pearls which he believed I was possessed of, and I had
infinite difficulty to escape out of his hands, and to persuade him not
to put me to death. The Tartars used often to come to our hut in the
night, when drunk with mead, demanding with loud outcries to deliver up
the Franks to them, and the bravest among us were terrified at the
dangerous situation in which we were among these savages. In this
horrible situation we remained from the 1st of May to the 10th of August.
The city of Citracan belongs to three brothers, who are sons to the
brother of the Tartar emperor, and the inhabitants often make plundering
inroads into the plains of _Cinassia_[4], and along the borders of the
Don. During the height of summer they travel with their flocks in search
of pasturage, to the northern parts of Russia, and hardly spend above a
month every year in Citracan. That city, which stands on the banks of the
Wolga, is by no means large, its houses being built of earth: It is
surrounded by a slight wall, and does not appear to have had any better
buildings for a long time past. It is said to have had a very
considerable fair formerly, and that the perfumes and spiceries which
used to be brought to Venice, came first to this place from the east,
whence they were carried to the Tanais or Don, which is only eight days
journey from the Wolga. The prince of Citracan, whose name is _Casinach_,
sends every year an ambassador to the grand duke of Muscovy, on purpose
to extort a present; and on this occasion, several Tartar merchants
accompany the ambassador, carrying silk, silken vestments, and other
articles of trade, which they barter for saddles, furs, and other things
which are in request among their countrymen.
The only way of travelling into Russia from this place, is through
extensive deserts, on which account travellers have to go in large bands
or caravans for mutual security, and to carry provisions for the journey.
The Tartars care little for the latter precaution, as they have always
plenty of spare horses, and kill one when needed, as they live entirely
on flesh and milk, without caring for any other food. They use no bread,
and only a few of their merchants who have been in Russia know any thing
of this article. Previous to the commencement of our journey[5], we
provided provisions for the journey as well as we could. In this view we
procured some rice with much difficulty, which, boiled in milk, and then
dried in the sun, makes, when afterwards boiled in water, an excellent
and nourishing food. We had likewise some onions, a small quantity of
biscuit, and some other trifles, and I bought, during the journey, the
salted tail of a sheep[6]. The usual road from Citracan to Russia lay
between two branches of the Wolga, but the roads were then exceedingly
dangerous, as the Tartar emperor was then at war with his nephew, who
pretended a right to the throne, as his father had once been emperor. On
this account it was proposed to pass over to the other side of the river,
and to travel towards the straits between the Don and the Wolga, which
are about five days journey from Citracan, after which it was presumed we
should be out of danger. Our baggage was accordingly carried across the
river on rafts, and Marcus desired me to keep always along with him and
the Tartar ambassador, named _Auchioli_. I and my interpreter accordingly
set out about mid-day along with the ambassador, to go to the place where
the boats waited for us, which was about twelve miles from the city, our
other companions having already gone there. On our arrival about sunset,
while I prepared to go into one of the boats on purpose to cross the
river, Marcus seemed suddenly struck with an extraordinary panic, and
commanded the interpreter and me to take to flight instantly to avoid
inevitable danger. We mounted therefore immediately, having likewise a
Russian woman along with us and a Tartar guide of a most horrible aspect,
and set out at full speed. In this manner we followed our guide the whole
of that night and part of the next day, without being ever allowed to
stop. I frequently asked our guide, by means of my interpreter, what was
the reason of all this, and where he proposed to carry me? At length he
explained the cause of Marcus having made us set off, with such
precipitation; as the khan had sent an order to examine all the boats,
and he was apprehensive they would have detained me as a slave if I had
been found.
About mid-day of the 13th of August 1475, we arrived at the banks of the
river, and our Tartar guide endeavoured to find a boat in which to carry
us into an island in which the flocks of Auchioli were kept; but not
finding one, he cut down some branches, which he tied together so as to
form a raft. On this he placed the saddles of our horses, and tying this
raft to his horses tail, he mounted the horse, on which he swam across
the river to the island, which lay a bow-shot from the shore. He then
came back with the raft, on which he carried over the Russian woman;
after which he came back for me, and I stripped myself naked before
trusting myself to the crazy raft, that I might be in readiness to save
myself by swimming, in case of any misfortune. He afterwards returned for
our horses; and my interpreter swam across. The passage of the river
being thus happily effected, the Tartar carried us to a wretched hovel,
covered by a miserable woollen cloth, where he gave us some sour milk,
which we found very refreshing, as we had been long without food, and
were much fatigued. Immediately on our arrival in the island being known,
several Tartars left their flocks to come and see us, seeming infinitely
surprized and much gratified by the sight, as we were probably the first
Christians who had ever been on the island. Being exceedingly fatigued
and distressed in mind, I did not care to speak with them, yet our Tartar
guide treated me with much kindness, and made me as good cheer as he was
able. Next day, being the eve of the festival of the Virgin, he killed a
fat lamb to entertain me, part of which he roasted, and part was boiled;
and though contrary to the rules of our religion to eat meat on that day,
I made a hearty meal, notwithstanding that every thing was disgustingly
dirty. We had likewise sour milk to drink, and the Tartars drank mares
milk, of which they are very fond; but I would not drink this, though I
could easily perceive my dislike did not please the Tartars.
I remained here two days; and at last, on the 26th of August, Marcus and
the rest made their appearance on the other side of the river, and sent a
boat for me in which were two of his servants, a Russian and a Tartar.
Stephen Testa and John Ungaret, my two attendants, were very much
rejoiced at seeing me again, as they believed me entirely lost, and we
rested two days at this place before entering upon the desert. Marcus had
been so attentive as to provide a horse for me, of which I stood in great
need. In this caravan, which was under the command of the Tartar
ambassador, there were about three hundred persons, Russians and Tartars,
who carried with them above two hundred[7] horses, partly intended to
serve as food by the way, and partly for sale in Russia. We arrived in
good order at night on the banks of the river, and we rested every day at
noon during the fifteen days of our journey, as we were now considered to
be out of danger from any attack by the Tartars. I do not recollect the
name of the emperor of the Tartars who inhabit this part of the country
between the Wolga and the Tanais. This nation has no fixed place of abode,
but shift their encampments from place to place, wherever they can find
pasture and water for their cattle, on which they have their whole
dependence, as they subsist entirely on flesh and milk. They have cows,
heifers, and sheep of admirable beauty, the flesh of which is excellent,
as they feed on fine pastures; but these people prefer mares milk to
every other delicacy. Though I have not been in the country of these
Tartars, I have been informed that it is flat and agreeable, having
neither hill nor mountain; but the inhabitants addict themselves
excessively to robbery and plunder, as their sole occupation, and
continually infest the borders of Russia and Circassia by predatory
incursions. Their horses are very wild and unmanageable, and are never
shod. We were told that there is another tribe of Tartars beyond the
Wolga, named wild Tartars, who allow their hair to grow extremely long.
In the middle of winter they often make inroads to the very skirts of the
city of Citracan, whence they carry off cattle, but do no other damage.
These people, like all the Tartars, shift their encampments in search of
pasturage and water.
After travelling for fifteen days along the eastern bank of the Wolga, we
came to a small forest, where the Tartars and Russians of the caravan cut
down trees to construct rafts for crossing the river. While they were at
this work, we discovered a small bark which was by no means in good
repair, by means of which our company proposed to convey our baggage
across. Marcus crossed over with a part of our baggage, leaving me in
charge of the rest, and sent back the boat when he was landed. In my trip
with the remainder of our baggage, the boat began to leak when we were
about half way over, the breadth of the river at this place being about
two miles. Stephen and two Russians accompanied me in the boat, leaving
Demetrius, my interpreter, and John Ungar in charge of the horses. We had
much ado to bale out the water, but by the blessing of God, we got over
in safety. After our baggage was landed, the Russians put off, to go back
for the rest of our people and the horses; but the boat fell to pieces.
This necessarily delayed our other servants and the horses from getting
over till next day, during which interval they were badly off, as all our
provisions were on our side. It was fortunate that I now examined the
state of our provisions, which I found diminished much beyond expectation,
so that we were under the necessity of abridging our allowance for the
remainder of the journey, that we might not run short altogether. Our
principal food consisted of millet, with garlic and onions, and some sour
milk; and we found some wild apples at this place, which we roasted. In
the course of two days, the whole baggage of the caravan was transported
to the western side of the river by means of seven rafts, drawn by horses,
and directed by the Tartars, the horses swimming and having the rafts
tied to their tails. The sight of this was very amusing, but seemed very
dangerous to those who were employed. After resting some time, we quitted
the banks of the river, and resumed our journey. This river Wolga is
certainly the largest and deepest river in the world, being, as well as I
could judge, two miles broad, and has very high banks.
[1] Called Citrarchan in the former section, but certainly what we now
call Astracan, then the capital of a Tartar principality, which now
forms one of the provinces of the vast Russian empire.--E.
[2] These are large shallow ponds, in which sea water is exposed to
evaporation, to procure salt.--E.
[3] In the original this person is called the cham of the _Camercheriens_.
The Tartar government of Astracan belonged to one of the Mongal tribes
of Kipschak; but the word used in the original may have been a local
term, not now explicable.--E.
[4] Perhaps the kingdom or province of Cazan, higher up the Wolga.--E.
[5] Contarini has forgot to give us any account in what manner he procured
leave to quit Astracan. Perhaps, by means of Marcus, he was permitted
to pass for one of his attendants.--E.
[6] It may be necessary to remark, that the tails of a peculiar species of
sheep, O. Platyurus, or the broad-tailed sheep, common among the
Tartars, and other parts of the world, are said sometimes to weigh
twenty-five pounds.--E.
[7] Probably an error for 2000.--E.
SECTION VIII.
_Contarini, after crossing European Sarmatia, arrives at Moscow, the
capital of White Russia, and is presented to the Grand Duke._
After recommending ourselves to the protection of God, we continued our
journey, through immense and terrible deserts, sometimes towards the
north, and sometimes westerly[1], always resting at noon, and taking up
our quarters for the night on the bare ground, without any protection
against the weather. To prevent us from being surprized in the night by
the wandering Tartars, outguards were placed every night in three
directions around our resting-place. During the greater part of this long
and dreary journey, we were very ill off for water both for ourselves and
our cattle, and we never saw any wild animals. One day we saw about forty
horses, which we were told had escaped from a caravan of merchants the
year before. We fell in one day with a small horde of Tartars, having
twenty waggons, but I was not able to learn where they were going. As our
provisions decreased rapidly, we were forced to use the remainder very
sparingly, and were consequently reduced to a very short allowance.
On the 22d of September 1475, we entered Russia, and discovered a few
huts in the middle of a wood. On the inhabitants learning that Marcus,
their countryman, was in our caravan, they came to see him that he might
protect them from the Tartars, and brought him a present of honey and wax,
a part of which he gave to us. This was a most providential supply, as we
were so much reduced by fatigue and spare diet, that we were hardly able
to sit on horseback. The first city we came to in this country was
_Rezan_[2], the prince of which place had married a sister of the Grand
Duke of Russia. The castle and all the houses of this city are built of
wood. We here procured bread and meat, and mead in abundance, to our
great comfort and satisfaction. The next city we came to was _Kolomna_,
passing a very large bridge over the _Monstrus_[3] which flows into the
Wolga. At this place, Marcus quitted the caravan, which travelled too
slowly in his opinion, and pushed on for Moscow, where we arrived on the
26th of September, after a journey of forty-seven days through the desert,
from the 10th of August, on which day we left Citracan. In a great part
of this journey we found no wood, and were forced to cook our victuals
with fires made of dried cow dung. We returned thanks to God on our
arrival, for our preservation through so many and great dangers. On our
arrival, Marcus procured a dwelling for us, consisting of a small stove-
room and some chambers, with stabling for our horses. Though small and
mean, I felt as if lodged in a palace, when I compared my present state
of tranquil security with the dangers and inconveniences I had been so
long subjected to.
Marcus made me a visit two days afterwards, and supplied me with some
necessaries, exhorting me, as on the part of his sovereign, to keep a
good heart. I returned his visit next day; and being very desirous to
return home to Venice, I requested him to introduce me to the grand duke,
which he promised to do as soon as possible, and I soon afterwards was
desired to go to court. Immediately on my getting there, I was conducted
to an audience; on which I made my obeisance in due form to the grand
duke, to whom I returned thanks for all the attentions I had received
from his ambassador, Marcus, in the course of my journey, by whose
assistance and advice I had escaped a thousand dangers; assuring his
highness that I attributed these marks of kindness as done to the
republic of Venice, whose ambassador I was, and that the republic would
unquestionably evince a due sense of the obligations, to which I owed my
life and safety. The grand duke interrupted my harangue, by complaining
with much emotion of the conduct of _John Baptista_ of Treviso, and said
a great deal on this subject, which is not proper for me to report. After
a conversation of some length, in which I spoke to his highness about my
departure, he closed my audience, postponing his answers to my requests
to a future opportunity. The grand duke was very shortly to quit Moscow,
on purpose to visit several parts of his dominions, and particularly the
Tartar frontier, where one of his officers was stationed, with the
command of 500 horse[4], to repress the incursions of robbers on that
side: I therefore endeavoured to procure an answer about my departure,
and solicited a second audience for that purpose. On this occasion I was
very politely received by the grand duke, accompanied by three of his
principal barons. At first they expatiated at some length on the subject
of John Baptista, formerly mentioned; but at length I received liberty to
remain or to depart as I thought proper. They dismissed me with this
vague answer, and the grand duke set out from Moscow soon afterwards. I
owed a great deal of money to Marcus, which he had expended for me and my
people, as he had defrayed the whole expences of our journey, and had
supplied me with many things of which I stood in need. I requested
permission from him to go away, giving him the most solemn assurance that
I would transmit full payment to him immediately after my arrival at
Venice. But he declared this was not in his power, as he was under the
necessity of repaying the Tartarian and Russian merchants, who had
advanced all these things for us, and to whom he had become security for
payment. Finding every application to the duke and Marcus on this subject
ineffectual, as I could not procure the necessary funds for my journey
from either, I was under the necessity of sending Stephen Testa to Venice,
to solicit a remittance from our illustrious senate, by which I might be
enabled to pay my debts. Stephen left Moscow on the 7th of October,
accompanied by one _Nicolas Leopolitain_[5], who knew the country.
I became acquainted at Moscow with one Triphon, a goldsmith, a native of
Ascravia or Cathara, who was employed in making several articles of
silver plate for the grand duke. I likewise formed acquaintance with a
very ingenious architect of Bologna, named Aristotle, who was building a
new church in the market-place. As the house in which I lodged was small
and disagreeable, I went to live with this person by the advice of Marcus:
But I was soon after obliged to change my quarters by order from court,
to a house near the castle, in which I remained for the rest of my stay
at Moscow. This city, which is the capital of the Russian dominions, and
the residence of the grand duke, or sovereign, is built on a small
elevation, on the banks of the Mosqua, over which there are several
bridges; the castle and all the houses of the city being built of wood,
which is procured from several thick forests near the place. The soil of
this country is fertile, and produces abundance of corn of all kinds,
which sell here much cheaper than with us; The country abounds in cattle
and swine, and with incredible numbers of poultry, ducks, geese, and
hares; but they have no venison, either because there are no deer, or
because the natives are ignorant of the art of taking them. But they have
no vines, and their only fruits are cucumbers, wild apples, and nuts. The
country is extremely cold, and the inhabitants are under the necessity of
living for nine months of the year in stoves. They provide during winter
for their living in summer[6]. When the whole country is enveloped in
frost and snow, they use sledges drawn by horses, which are very
convenient and useful for travelling; and are even used in summer on
account of the miry bad roads, which are exceedingly difficult and
unpleasant. The river ordinarily freezes over about the end of October,
when the merchants erect booths on the ice, in which they expose their
wares of all kinds for sale, as in a fair or market; and they here sell
great numbers of cattle and swine, and great quantities of corn, timber,
and all other necessaries of life; every thing being procurable in great
abundance all the winter. About the end of November, they kill all the
cattle, sheep, and other animals that are required for winter provision,
and expose them for sale on the river in a frozen state; and the rigour
of the season preserves these provisions for two or three months, without
any risk of spoiling. Fish, poultry, and all other articles of food, are
kept in the same manner. The horses run with great ease and swiftness on
the ice yet they sometimes fell and break their necks. Both men and women
of this country have very good faces, but their manners are exceedingly
bad.