Journal of an Expedition into the Interior of Tropical Australia - Thomas Mitchell
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Journal of an Expedition into the Interior of Tropical Australia
In Search of a Route from Sydney to the Gulf of Carpentaria (1848)
by
Lt. Col. Sir Thomas Livingstone Mitchell Kt. D.C.L. (1792-1855)
Surveyor-General of New South Wales
TO
THE HONOURABLE
THE SPEAKER AND MEMBERS
OF THE
LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL OF NEW SOUTH WALES,
THIS JOURNAL
OF
AN EXPEDITION OF DISCOVERY,
PETITIONED FOR BY THE COUNCIL,
AND
UNDERTAKEN AT THE EXPENSE OF THE COLONY,
IS
DEDICATED
BY
THEIR MOST OBEDIENT,
HUMBLE SERVANT,
T. L. MITCHELL
PREFACE.
"Admiring Nature in her wildest grace,"[* Burns.] it has ever been the
most attractive of the author's duties to explore the interior of
Australia. There the philosopher may look for facts; the painter and the
poet for original studies and ideas; the naturalist for additional
knowledge; and the historian might begin at a beginning. The traveller
there seeks in vain for the remains of cities, temples, or towers; but he
is amply compensated by objects that tell not of decay but of healthful
progress and hope;--of a wonderful past, and of a promising future.
Curiosity alone may attract us into the mysterious recesses of regions
still unknown; but a still deeper interest attaches to those regions, now
that the rapid increase of the most industrious and, may we add most
deserving people on earth, suggests that the land there has been reserved
by the Almighty for their use.
In Australia, the great family of civilized man seems still at that early
period between history and fable, upon which, even in "the world as known
to the ancients," the Roman poet had to look very far back:--
"Communemque prius, ceu lumina solis et auras, Cautus humum longo
signavit limite mensor." [* Ovid, Met. lib. i.]
The Journey narrated in this work was undertaken for the extension of
arrangements depending on physical geography. It completes a series of
internal surveys, radiating from Sydney towards the west, the south, and
the north, which have occupied the author's chief attention during the
last twenty years; and, as on former occasions, it has enabled him to
bring under the notice of men of science some of the earth's productions
hitherto unknown. He cannot sufficiently express his sense of obligation
in this respect, to Mr. Bentham, Sir William Hooker, Dr. Lindley, and
Professor De Vriese, for supplying the botanical matter and notes
contained in this volume, and thus contributing to the general stock of
human knowledge. It is also his pleasing duty to state, that during the
long journey of upwards of a year, Captain P. P. King, R. N., kept a
register of the state of the barometer at the sea side; and, in the midst
of his important avocations, determined, by a very elaborate comparison
of minute details, all the heights of localities herein mentioned.
The new geographical matter is presented to the public with confidence in
its accuracy, derived as it is from careful and frequent observations of
latitude; trigonometrical surveying with the theodolite, whereever
heights were available; and, by actual measurement of the line of route.
This route was connected, at its commencement and termination, with the
trigonometrical survey of the colony; and, in closing on Mount Riddell, a
survey extending two degrees within the tropics, the near coincidence of
his intersections with that summit, as fixed by his survey of 1830, could
not but be very satisfactory to the author.
The geological specimens collected during this journey have been
deposited in the British Museum, and their original locality is shown on
the maps by the numbers marked upon the specimens, so that they may be
available to geologists; hence, in the progress of geological science,
the fossils now brought from these remote regions will be accessible at
any future time, and something known of the geology as well as of the
geography of the interior. As Professor Forbes most readily undertook to
describe the freshwater shells after the work had passed through the
press, that portion of the collection also has thus been brought under
the notice of geologists.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
GENERAL MAP
Objects of the expedition.--Unexpected delay--by reference to Lord
Stanley.--List of the Party.--Departure from Buree.--Sheep stations.--
Scattered population.--Passage through Hervey's Range.--Encroachment of
sheep on cattle runs.--A tea-totaller.--Meet an old acquaintance.--
Sulphureous springs.--Currandong--Necessity for damming up the Bogan.
Leave Bultje's country.--Ephemeral existence of Aborigines.--Line between
the squatters and the wild natives.--Velocity of the Bogan.--Supply of
young bullocks.--Richard Cunningham--Young cattle troublesome.--A night
without water.--Distress from heat and thirst.--Excessive heat.--Reunion
of the party.--Melancholy fate of the Bogan tribe.--Interesting plants
discovered.--Encampment at Mudaa.--Carry water forward.--Arrive at
Darobal.--Nyingan.--Water at Canbelego.--Discovery of a lagoon.--Encamp
near Canbelego. Explore the Bogan in search of water.--Long ride.--Quit
the Bogan.--Party attacked with ophthalmia
CHAPTER II.
MAP OF THE RIVERS BOGAN AND MACQUARIE
Move to the ponds of Cannonba.--Set up our bivouac.--Hot wind.--Piper's
intention to quit the party.--Piper sent to Bathurst.--Change of
weather.--A day of rain.--Mr. Kennedy returns.--Salt made from the salt
plant.--Reconnoitre Duck Creek.--Ophthalmia still troublesome.--Approach
of a flood announced.--It arrives in clear moonlight.--(Frontispiece.)--
Marshes of the Macquarie.--Difficulty of watering cattle.--(Plate 2. p.
61.) A new guide.--Cattle astray.--Yulliyally.--Docility of the
Aborigines.--Water insufficient for cattle.--Want of water.--Small ponds
destroyed by cattle.--At last find abundance.--Aboriginal preferable to
modern names.--Cattle again astray--and delay the journey.--Junction of
the Macquarie and Barwan.--The Darling as at present, and formerly.--
Admirable distribution of water. The ford at Wyabry.--The party crosses
the Darling
CHAPTER III.
MAP OF THE RIVERS NARRAN, CULGOA, AND BALONNE TO ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE,--
SHOWING ALSO THE ROUTE HOMEWARD, AS DESCRIBED IN CHAPTER X.
Plains and low hills.--The Carawy ponds.--Delayed by weak cattle.--The
Narran.--Arrived at--encamp by:--Narran swamp.--A bridge required.--
During the delay of drays take a ride forward.--Rich pastures on the
Narran.--New plants.--Arrival of drays.--Bridge laid down for their
passage.--The party fords the Narran.--Advances but slowly.--Low hills
examined.--Good grassy country.--Food of the natives.--Rising ground west
of the river.--Ride up.--Abodes and food of natives.--Rich grass.--Parley
with a native.--Gravelly ridges.--Two natives conduct us to the river.--
Approach the assembled natives.--Interview with the tribes.--Cordial
reception.--Cross the Balonne.--Reach the Culgoa.--Cross that river.--
Route beyond.--The Upper Balonne.--Explore its course.--Numerals cut on
trees.--A native scamp.--Fine country.--Splendid reaches of the river
(Plate 3. page 119.)--Lagoons near it.--Lake Parachute.--Seek a
position--for a depot camp.--Ride to the north-west.--Character of the
country.--Search for water. Uncommon birds.--Return to the camp.--New
Acacia
CHAPTER IV.
MAP OF THE ADVANCE TO THE MARANOA--SHOWING ALSO THE ROUTE BY WHICH THE
PARTY RETURNED TO ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE, AS DESCRIBED IN CHAPTER VII.
Advance with a light party.--Fine river scenery.--Junction of rivers.--
Trace one up, then cross to the other.--Mr. Kennedy instructed to explore
it.--Fine country for grazing.--Turanimga lagoon.--Trace up a small
tributary.--Mountains discovered.--Camp visited by three
natives.--"Cogoon" the name of tributary.--Charms of the Australian
climate.--Mount Minute.--Extreme cold.--Traces of high floods in the
Cnogoa.---Mount Inviting.--Mount Abundance.--Ascend that mountain.--
Fitzroy Downs.--The Bottle Tree, or DELABECHEA.--Frosty Creek.--Travel
due north over open downs.--Advantages of mountains.--Ascend one.--Mount
Bingo.--Thenod Tagando tribe.--The party advances to the Amby--followed
by the tribe.--How we got rid of them.--Enter the country through the
pass.--Find one pond.--A large river discovered.--Position taken up on
its banks.--There await Mr. Kennedy's arrival.--Explore to the north-
west.--Ascend a hill and tree to take angles from.--Interior country
visited.--View of the western interior.--Its character.--Determine to
trace the river upwards.--Ascend Mount Kennedy.--Extensive prospect.--
Native visit during my absence.--Arrival of Mr. Kennedy's party.--The
Tagando tribe again.--Their visit to Mr. Kennedy.--Prepare to advance
again with a light party.--Instructions left with Mr. Kennedy
CHAPTER V.
MAP OF THE COUNTRY AND THE ROUTES BETWEEN THE MARANOA AND MOUNT MUDGE,
AND THOSE ALONG THE RIVER VICTORIA AS DESCRIBED IN CHAPTER VII.
My departure.--A team of bullocks sent back for.--Good grassy country.--
Ride north-west during rain.--Hostile natives menace our camp.--The party
crosses Possession Creek.--A small river found.--Another ride to the
north-west.--Banks of the little river.--Mount Owen seen.--Travel towards
it.--Flank movement to the Maranoa for water.--None found in its bed.--
View from Mount Owen.--Names of localities on the map.--Scarcity of water
impedes our progress.--Water found in rocky gullies.--Excursion
northward.--Mount Aquarius.--View from northern summit of Mount Owen.--
Progress through a broken country.--Night without water.--Another route
explored amongst the gullies.--Plants found near Mount Owen.--Route for
the advance of the carts.--View of mountains--from Mount P. P. King.--
View from western extremity of Table Land of Hope.--Mount Faraday.--
Strange Hakea.--A running stream discovered.--Return towards the camp.--
The party with the carts advances.--(Pyramids, Plate IV., page 222.)--
Course of the new found river.--New plants.--A large lake receives the
river.--(Plate V., John Martin's Range, page 225.)--The outlet dry.--
Enter a scrub.--Return to the Salvator.--Discovery of the Claude.--Rich
soil on the downs.--The party moves to the Claude.--Cross that river.
Fossil wood.--Again shut up in a rocky country.--Slow progress in a
gully.--Balmy Creek.--New plants.--Emerge from the ravines.--Tower
Almond.--(Pl. 6. page 237.)--View from Mount Kilsyth.--View from Mount
Mudge.--Two natives met.--Remarkable tree
CHAPTER VI.
MAP OF THE RIVER BELYANDO,
Head of another river.--Water again scarce.--Abundance found.--Climate
and country--under the Tropic Line.--Plants.--Peculiar character of the
water-course.--One cause of open spaces in the woods.--New plants.--
Causes of the outspread of channel.--Plains of wild indigo.--Large river
channel from the south.--Cross.--Novelties beyond.--The river much
increased.--Long journey through scrub.--New plants.--Journey along the
river bank.--Character of this river.--Distant prospect.--No water.--
Fatiguing journey through scrubs. Reach the river by moonlight.--Large
lagoons.--New tributary--from the S. W.--Excursion to the N. W.--Night
without water.--Interview with natives.--Camp visited by natives during
my absence.--An affair at the camp.--The party crosses the river.--
Conclusions.--The party returns.--Tilled ground of the natives.--The
shepherd astray.--Singular phenomenon.--Extraordinary vegetable
production.--Heavy rain comes on.--Probability of finding a river.--
Singular meteor.--Intertropical temperature.--Effects of the rain.--
Recross the Tropic.--Regain the higher land.--Remarkable
tree.--(Hakea?)--Dip of the strata.--Character of the Belyando.--How to
explore a river in brigalow.--A more direct way homewards.--Successful
passage with carts and drays.--Open downs.--Fossil wood.--Recross the
Claude.--Mantuan downs.--Natives of the Salvator.--Position taken up for
a depot camp.--Interesting plants.--(View on the Salvator, Pl. 8.)
CHAPTER VII.
(Having reference to Map V., Page 189.)
Preparations and departure.--Mount Pluto.--Route amongst the three
volcanic hills.--Interview with a female native.--Cross a range beyond.--
The Nive and the Nivelle.--Burning of grass by the natives.--Water found,
after a night of thirst.--Pastures green, and quiet waters at sunset.--
Morning view from a rock.--A new river followed down-over extensive open
downs.--Brigalow scrubs away from the river.--River much increased.--
Security from natives--Thoughts in these solitudes.--The downs and the
river.--An emu shot there.--A river joins from the east.--Structure of
native's huts.--Two separate channels unite.--The river well filled.--
Packhorse unserviceable.--Rare pigeon--numerous.--A wild tribe--
surprised at a lagoon.--Recross the river--and return homewards.--The
savage compared--with the civilized.--Hills in the S. W.--Short cut along
the left bank of the river.--Name it the Victoria.--Privations in
exploring.--Return to the Nive and Nivelle.--Gallant charge by a snake.--
Sources of the Salvator.--View from Mount Pluto.--Arrival at the camp of
the pyramids.--Rare and new plants collected there.--(View of Lindley's
Range, Pl. 9.)
CHAPTER VIII.
(Having reference to Map V., Page 189., and Map IV., Page 133.)
Fossils and plants.--A new genus.--LINSCHOTENIA DISCOLOR.--Ascend Mount
Faraday.--Valley of the Warrego.--Meet an old native.--Return to the camp
over the gullies.--Encamp by the Maranoa.--The river found to be near our
former track--with water in abundance.--Loss of a horse.--Cattle
tracks.--Arrival at the camp of Mr. Kennedy.--Visits of the natives--
during our absence.--(Pl. 7. ABORIGINAL DANCE, page 358).--Plants
gathered at the depot camp.--New plants.--Fossils at Mount Sowerby.--
Ascent of Mount Kennedy.--The party leaves the depot camp following the
course of the Maranoa.--Discovery of a fine open country.--Numbered trees
at camps.--The country on the Maranoa.--Singular habits of a fish.--Name
of river obtained from good authority.--(Pl. 10. VIEW ON THE MARANOA,
page 372).--The Acacia varians.--Water scarce again.--Some at length
discovered by a dog.--Country between the two routes.--Plants.--Arrive at
the Balonne.--Return to St. George's Bridge
CHAPTER IX.
(Having reference to Map III., Page 81.)
(VIEW OF ST. GEORGE'S BRIDGE, Pl. 11)--Despatches sent forward.--
Acquisitions during the delay.--Mr. Kennedy's return and report.--The
party crosses the Balonne.--Arrives at the Mooni.--A white woman.--Cattle
stations.--Heavy rain.--The country impassable.--Camp removed to a
hill.--Dam thrown up.--The waters subside.--The party proceeds.--Arrival
at the Barwan.--A flood.--(Pl. 12. LAST USE OF THE BOATS, page 395).--
Cross the Maal, also in boats.--Country between the rivers.--Mount
Riddell recognised.--The Gwydir crossed.--Termination of the journey.--A
stockman.--Night on the open plain.--The Nammoy.--First news
CHAPTER X.
Instructions to Mr. Kennedy for the survey of the river Victoria.--Of the
Aborigines.--Simple conditions of human existence.--Grass, fire,
kangaroos, and men.--Case of the aboriginal natives.--My native guides.--
Experiment worth trying.--Of the Convicts.--Character of the men of the
party.--Of convicts generally.--Of the Colony of New South Wales,--
capabilities of soil and climate.--Progress of colonization,--Division
and appropriation of the territory.--Capricornia and Austral-india
MAP OF EASTERN AUSTRALIA Page 430
APPENDIX.
The Colonial Secretary to the Surveyor General of New South Wales.--
Letter, dated 28th October, 1830
Systematical List of Plants
ILLUSTRATIONS.
[Not included in the text-file version of this eBook]
Flood coming down the Macquarie (pl. 1. p. 58) Map I. The Indian
Archipelago Portrait of Bultje Remnant of the Bogan tribe Map II. The
Rivers Bogan and Macquarie First use of the boats (pl. 2) Map III. The
Rivers Narran, Culgoa, and Balonne to St. George's Bridge, shewing also
the route thence homeward to Snodgrass Lagoon Separation of the Balonne
into the Culgoa, Narran, &c. The River Balonne, 7th April (pl. 3) Map IV.
Advance to the Maranoa, and route returning to St. George's Bridge The
Bottle tree, DELABECHEA The black awaiting the white Map V. The country
and the routes between the Maranoa and Mount Mudge, and those along the
River Victoria Tree without branches The Pyramids (pl. 4) Martin's Range
(pl. 5) Tower Almond (pl. 6) Map VI. The River Belyando Missile club of
natives of Central Australia Remarkable tree (HAKEA ?) The River
Salvator, 5th Sept. (pl. 8) Lindley's Range (pl. 9) Old native female
Aboriginal dance (pl. 7) View on the River Maranoa (pl. 10) Acacia
VARIANS St. Georgia's Bridge (pl. 11) Last use of the boats (pl. 12) Map
VII. Eastern Australia, with recent discoveries
* * * * *
JOURNEY INTO TROPICAL AUSTRALIA, ETC.
Chapter I.
OBJECTS OF THE EXPEDITION.--IT IS DELAYED BY A REFERENCE TO LORD
STANLEY.--LIST OF THE PARTY.--DEPARTURE FROM BUREE.--SCATTERED
POPULATION.--IRISH AMONGST THE SQUATTERS.--A TEA-TOTALLER FROM SYDNEY.--A
SHEPHERDESS IN AUSTRALIA. SHEEP WALK WHERE CATTLE RUN.--MEET AN OLD
ABORIGINAL ACQUAINTANCE.--CATTLE STATIONS ABANDONED.--THE BOGAN RIVER.--
YOUNG BULLOCKS TROUBLESOME.--EXCESSIVE HEAT.--GREAT SCARCITY OF WATER.--
THE PARTY MUCH DISTRESSED BY HEAT AND DROUGHT.--MELANCHOLY FATE OF THE
BOGAN TRIBE.--INTERESTING PLANTS DISCOVERED.--CARRY WATER FORWARD.--
DESPERATE RIDE DOWN THE BOGAN.--FIND ITS CHANNEL DRY.--DOGS DIE FROM
THIRST.--THE PARTY ATTACKED WITH OPHTHALMIA.--QUIT THE BOGAN, BY MOVING
TO THE PONDS OF CANNONBA.--ENCAMP THERE TO REST AND REFRESH THE PARTY.
The exploration of Northern Australia, which formed the object of my
first journey in 1831, has, consistently with the views I have always
entertained on the subject [* See London Geographical Journal, vol. vii.
part 2, p. 282.], been found equally essential in 1846 to the full
development of the geographical resources of New South Wales. The same
direction indicated on Mr. Arrowsmith's map, published by the Royal
Geographical Society in 1837, was, in 1846, considered, by a committee of
the Legislative Council of New South Wales, the most desirable to pursue
at a time when every plan likely to relieve the colony from distress
found favour with the public.
At no great distance lay India and China, and still nearer, the rich
islands of the Indian Archipelago; all well-peopled countries, while the
industrious and enterprising colonists of the South were unable to avail
themselves of the exuberance of the soil and its productions,
"Which mock'd their scant manurings, and requir'd MORE HANDS THAN THEIRS
to prune their wanton growth."
The same attraction which drew the greatest of discoverers westward, "al
nacimiento de la especeria [* To the region where spices grew.]," seemed
to invite the Australian explorer northward; impelled by the wayward
fortunes of the Anglo-Saxon race already rooted at the southern extremity
of the land whose name had previously been "Terra Australis incognita."
The character of the interior of that country still remained unknown, the
largest portion of earth as yet unexplored. For the mere exploration, the
colonists of New South Wales might not have been very anxious just at
that time, but when the object of acquiring geographical knowledge could
be combined with that of exploring a route towards the nearest part of
the Indian Ocean, westward of a dangerous strait, it was easy to awaken
the attention of the Australian public to the importance of such an
enterprise. A trade in horses required to remount the Indian cavalry had
commenced, and the disadvantageous navigation of Torres Straits had been
injurious to it: that drawback was to be avoided by any overland route
from Sydney to the head of the Gulf of Carpentaria.
But other considerations, not less important to the colonists of New
South Wales, made it very desirable that a way should be opened to the
shores of the Indian Ocean. That sea was already connected with England
by steam navigation, and to render it accessible to Sydney by land, was
an object in itself worthy of an exploratory expedition. In short, the
commencement of such a journey seemed the first step in the direct road
home to England, for it was not to be doubted that on the discovery of a
good overland route between Sydney and the head of the Gulf of
Carpentaria, a line of steam communication would thereupon be introduced
from that point to meet the English line at Singapore.
In this view of the subject, it seemed more desirable to open a way to
the head of the Gulf of Carpentaria, the nearest part of the sea, than to
the settlement at Port Essington, on a presque-ile forming the furthest
point of the land; and, that the journey would terminate at the Gulf was
therefore most probable. The map of Australia, when compared with that of
the world, suggested reasonable grounds for believing that a considerable
river would be found to lead to the Gulf of Carpentaria.
My department having been reduced to a state of inactivity in 1843, I
submitted a plan of exploration to Sir George Gipps, the Governor, when
His Excellency promised, that if the Legislative Council made such
reductions as they seemed disposed to make in the public expenditure, he
should be able to spare money for such an expedition. The Legislative
Council not only made reductions in the estimates to save much more money
than His Excellency had named, but even voted 1000L. towards the expense
of the journey, and petitioned the Governor to sanction it. His
Excellency, however, then thought it necessary to refer the subject to
the Secretary for the Colonies. Much time was thus lost, and, what was
still worse, the naturalist to whom I had explained my plan, and invited
to join my party, Dr. Leichardt. This gentleman, tempted by the general
interest taken by the colonists at the time in a journey of discovery,
which afforded a cheering prospect amid the general gloom and
despondency, raised and equipped a small party by public subscription,
and proceeded by water to Moreton Bay. Dr. Leichardt, and the six persons
who finally accompanied him thence to the northward, had not been heard
of, and were supposed to have either perished or been destroyed by
natives. [* Dr. Leichhardt returned afterwards to Sydney from Port
Essington by sea; and the journal of his journey, recently published,
shows what difficulties may be surmounted by energy and perseverance.]
The reply of Lord Stanley was, as might have been anticipated, favourable
to the undertaking; but the Governor of the colony still declined to
allow the journey to be undertaken, without assigning any reason for
keeping it back. This was the more regretted by me, when it became known
in New South Wales that Captain Sturt was employed, with the express
sanction of Lord Stanley, to lead an exploring expedition from Adelaide
into the northern interior of Australia, and that he was actually then in
New South Wales. Sir George Gipps had expressed, in one of his early
despatches to the British Government, his readiness to encourage such an
undertaking as that, and stated that "no one came forward to claim the
honour of such an enterprise;" yet now that Lord Stanley had sanctioned
the plan of the Surveyor General, whose duty it was to survey the
country, he refused to allow this officer to proceed. The Legislative
Council, however, renewed the petition for this undertaking, to which the
Governor at length assented, in 1845; and the sum of 2000L. was
unanimously voted for the outfit of the party, but with the clear
understanding on the part of the Council, that the plan of the Surveyor
General should be adopted.
The idea of a river flowing to the northward, was not, however, new. The
journey in 1831 was undertaken chiefly in consequence of a report that a
large river had been followed down to the coast by a bushranger,
accompanied by the natives: and the ultimate course of the Condamine,
still a question, was a subject of controversy in some of the first
papers published in the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society. My
suggestions on the subject are detailed at length in the London
Geographical Journal, Vol. VII., Part 2., page 282., and accompanied by a
map showing the line of exploration then recommended.
In making preparations for this expedition, the means of conveyance by
land and water required the earliest consideration. These were strong
bullock-drays and portable boats. Horses and light carts had been
preferred by me: but the longer column of march, and necessity for a
greater number of men, were considered objections; while many experienced
persons suggested that the bullocks, though slow, were more enduring than
horses. [* The results of this journey proved quite the reverse.] Eight
drays were therefore ordered to be made of the best seasoned wood: four
of these by the best maker in the colony, and four by the prisoners in
Cockatoo Island. Two iron boats were made by Mr. Struth, each in two
parts, on a plan of my own, and on the 17th of November the whole party
moved off from Paramatta on their way to the proposed camp at Buree.