Journal of an Expedition into the Interior of Tropical Australia - Thomas Mitchell
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[* E. POPULIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis rhombeo-triangularibus obtusissimis
longius petiolatis coriaceis minute punctatis (punctis pallidis)
reticulatovenosis. This species is remarkable in the size and shape of
its petiolated leaves. The branches bear turbinated woody excrescences
(galls), each with two or more, generally three, sharp angles, and as
many unequal projecting wings, altogether exactly resembling the fruit of
some BEGONIA.]
19TH JUNE.--Another dewy night had providentially refreshed the grass for
our thirsty animals. We ascended, at a very favourable point, the
sandstone table-land, and travelled for some miles along my horse's track
towards Mount Owen, turning round the heads of gullies which broke
abruptly in steep rocks both to our right and left. Then, turning to the
right, where a branch of the high land projected eastward towards the
river, we encamped on its extreme eastern point, overlooking a grassy
valley, hemmed in by precipitous cliffs, yet easily accessible to our
horses and cattle, from the point on which we had encamped. I had already
found a deep hole in a rock on the right, containing water sufficient for
the men and horses for several days, and, on riding down the valley while
they pitched the tents, I found a large pond only a mile from the camp.
The valley contained many still larger, but all, save this one, were dry.
Grass grew there in great abundance, and of excellent quality. Pigeons
were numerous of that species (GEOPHAPS SCRIPTA) which is so great a
luxury; the most delicate food, perhaps, of all the feathered race. The
highest of the sandy tableland crossed this day appeared (by Captain
King's subsequent calculations) to be 1863 feet. That of the camp over
the cliffs, 1840 feet above the sea, the height of these cliffs above the
bed of the river being thus about 300 feet. Thermometer, at sunrise, 50 deg.;
at 4 P.M., 65 deg.; at 9, 61 deg..
20TH JUNE.--I set out (with two men and Yuranigh) to explore the country
beyond Mount Owen. From its base I observed some open forest land, and a
less broken country, in a direction much further to the westward than the
course I had previously selected, which was N.N.W. I now proceeded W.N.W.
towards that open forest land. We found the country open for some miles,
then, entering a flat or valley, I descended gradually between sandstone
rocks, to a valley in which a chain of deep ponds led to the north-west.
On following this down, I found it turned more and more to the westward,
and at length to the south-west, whereupon I quitted its bed and cliffy
banks, and, following up a ravine from the other side, again endeavoured
to pursue my intended course. We crossed, at the head of the ravine, a
sandstone range, and descended by another valley which led first
northward, but terminated in joining a spacious grassy flat with dry
ponds in it. I endeavoured to trace this downwards for several miles in a
rainy evening, and found at last, to my disappointment, that this also
turned to the S.W. This flat was broad and hemmed in by low rocky points
of ground, of very uniform shape. Many marks of natives appeared on the
trees, and, in good seasons, it must be one of their favourite spots. I
left it, however, when darkness and heavy rain obliged me to look for
shelter in a gloomy forest to the westward. By the time we arrived at
this, we could see no grassy spot for our horses, nor any sort of cover
for ourselves. Douglas found, at length, a fallen tree, and under this,
covered with a few boughs, we lay down on the wet earth for the night,
being ourselves as wet, yet wanting withal, water for ourselves and
horses. Thermometer, at sunrise, 54 deg.; at noon, 69 deg.; at 4 P.M., 67 deg.; at 9,
57 deg..
21ST JUNE.--The rain had abated to my great disappointment, for we should
have been amply compensated for wet jackets, by the sight of well filled
ponds of water, the want of which was the great impediment to this
journey. The sky was still overcast, and the wet bushes were unavoidable.
On I travelled north-west, until we approached some fine open forest
hills, the bare tops of which, just visible from the foot of Mount Owen,
had first drawn me in that direction. One tempting peak induced me to
approach it, and to think of an ascent. In a rugged little water-course
in its bosom, we found water enough for our horses, the product of last
night's rain. The view from the summit, made up for the deviation from my
route. A group of the most picturesque hills imaginable lay to the
northward, and were connected with this, the whole being branches from
the Table Land of Hope. Some appeared of a deep blue colour, where their
clothing was evergreen bush. Others were partly of a golden hue, from the
rich ripe grass upon them. The sun broke through the heavy clouds and
poured rays over them, which perfected the beauty of the landscape. I
recognised, from this apex, my station on Mount Owen, and several hills I
had intersected from it. Amongst others, the three remarkable cones to
the westward of Mount Faraday, apparently a continuation of the line of
summits I have already mentioned. This hill consisted of amygdaloidal
trap in nodules, the crevices being filled with crystals of sulphate of
lime, and there were many round balls of ironstone, like marbles or round
shot, strewed about. A red ferruginous crust projected from the highest
part, and, on this summit, the magnetic needle was greatly affected by
local attraction, and quite useless. Fortunately, I had also my pocket
sextant, and with it took some valuable angles. On descending, I heartily
enjoyed a breakfast, and named the hill which gave us the water, Mount
Aquarius. Returning towards Mount Owen, by a more direct route, I arrived
at the head of a gully which led tolerably direct until we found our
track, in the creek I had run down on the preceding day. But night was
approaching, and we had water enough in a rocky hollow, and also a cavern
before which a large fire gave such warmth, that, in passing the night
there in my cloak, I was quite insensible to a frost without, which, at
the camp, at 4 P. M., had lowered the mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer
to 22 deg., or 10 deg. below the freezing point.
22D JUNE.--Our provisions being out, I hastened back to the camp,
determined to explore in a more northerly direction, according to my
original intention. Water was only to be found in so dry a season, in the
neighbourhood of mountains, or in rocky gullies likely to retain a
passing shower. In our way back, I ascended the north-western shoulder of
Mount Owen, and was much more inclined to take a northerly route, from
the appearance of the mountains on that side. The view from that summit
to the northward, was very grand; I saw more plainly the line of the
Maranfrom its upper sources. Two mighty masses of table-land seemed the
highest of all. One I had already seen and named Buckland's Table Land. I
could here distinguish the apex of Mount Aquarius, and fix it in my map.
I perceived a hollow part of the range immediately to the northward, and
a sort of hiatus amongst the peaks in the broken country beyond, through
which I hoped to find a way. I hastened to the camp to prepare for a
"raid" of a whole week, if necessary, in that direction. Thermometer, at
sunrise, 27 deg.; at noon, 52 deg.; at 4 P. M., 55 deg.; at 9, 59 deg..
23D JUNE.--Returning early by the foot of Mount Owen, I travelled nearly
northward through a fine open forest, in which we saw a large kangaroo
entirely black. Rocky gullies next came in my way, and, in avoiding those
on the left, others falling to the right, or to the Maran, showed me that
this was a dividing feature. I knew it was continuous to Mount Clift from
my former observations, and therefore followed it by keeping between the
heads of gullies breaking to each side, until I found one favourable for
a descent to the left. Below, we found a broad, grassy, valley, extending
about W.N.W., and in it, deep ponds, which sometimes evidently held much
water, although they were then dry. This soon, however, turned to the
south-west, evidently to join the channel I had before explored. Quitting
it, therefore, much disappointed, I ascended sandstone cliffs and pushed
through scrubs, determined to proceed directly north-ward, until I met
with valleys falling north-west. We thus passed just under the most
easterly part of Hope's Table Land, and came, about sunset, to a hollow
containing ponds, in two of which we found water. Here we gladly
bivouacked for the night. ZAMIAS grew here, and were numerous higher up
the valley. Thermometer, at sunrise, 26 deg.; at noon, 54 deg.; at 4 P. M., 50 deg.;
at 9, 40 deg..
24TH JUNE.--The hoar-frost had stiffened the grass, and the water was
frozen so that the horses cared not to drink. I proceeded N. N. W., in
which direction a beautiful cone rose to a great height, and sharp apex.
Stony hills of trap appearing also in that line, I turned northward, and,
after crossing a level tract of high ground, much like a dividing
feature, (especially as seen from Mount Owen,) I entered a valley
descending to the northwest. It fell rapidly, contained large water
holes, and in two of these, at length, an abundant supply of water. The
course, throughout all its windings, was towards the north-west, and this
I, at the time, thought, might be a northern water. I therefore returned,
anxious to bring the party thus far, at all events, and resolved to
follow this little river down. We arrived, on our way back, in the
evening of the same day, in the valley I had quitted in the morning,
having followed down a water-course from the end of Hope's Table Land,
under which I had passed, in search of a good way for the carts. Although
we had seen promising ponds of water in this little channel, we could
find none in the lower part, having in the expectation of finding some,
rode on until darkness prevented me from going further. We were thus
obliged to pass the night (a very cold one) without water, and almost
without fuel. I missed the comfortable cavern where I had slept a few
nights before, especially when I arose here in the night to mend the
fire, and found we had no more wood at hand. I learnt afterwards that at
the camp, the thermometer at 4 P. M. had been as low as 17 deg. of
Fahrenheit.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 21 deg.; at noon, 51 deg.; at 4 P. M.
49 deg.; at 9, 29 deg..
[* This was 15 deg. degrees below the freezing point, and shows how much more
easily cold may be endured in a dry atmosphere than where there is
moisture, as instanced in the following extract from a despatch of
Captain James C. Ross (in command of the Antarctic Expedition), dated 7th
April, 1841, and published in the Tasmanian Journal.
"With a temperature of 20 deg. below the freezing point, we found the ice to
form so rapidly on the surface, that any further examination of the
barrier in so extremely severe a period of the season being
impracticable, we stood away to the westward, for the purpose of making
another attempt to approach the magnetic pole, and reached its latitude
(76 deg. S.) on the 15th February."]
25TH JUNE.--Continuing our ride as soon as day-light permitted, ten
minutes brought us to a pond containing plenty of water under a shelving
rock, and here we alighted to breakfast, which was pleasant enough, but
not so gratifying as the position of this pond, which would enable me to
bring the carts through these valleys, to this convenient intermediate
stage in the way to the Northern river. The next question was, whether
the route to the eastward, descending into these valleys near Mount
Clift, or that by my first route, when I discovered this rocky country,
should be preferred; and I returned towards our camp this morning by the
eastern gullies, in hopes to find an easy descent nearer to Mount Clift
than at the point where I before came down. But I found them much more
acclivitous and rocky. We at length, with difficulty, got our horses up a
rocky point, on which grew a thick scrub of "blackwood," as Yuranigh
called it, an acacia having many tough stems growing thickly together
from one root, and obstructing the passage, and covering the ground with
its half-fallen and fallen timber. Our passage along the range thence
towards Mount Owen, having been too much to the eastward, brought us upon
the bend of a gully falling to the Maran; a wild and impracticable
looking dell as ever was seen. On regaining our track near Mount Owen,
and returning along it to the camp, I found that another pond had been
discovered in the valley, by Felix Maguire, who on two occasions, had
dreamt of water, risen, and walked directly to where he found it! However
that might have been, this man had a happy knack in finding water. In the
neighbourhood of this camp some interesting plants were collected; viz.
NOTHOCHLOENA DISTANS, GRAMMITIS RUTOEFOLIA, CHEILANTHES TENUIFOLIA,
ADIANTUM HISPIDULUM and ASSIMILE, all ferns, together with HOVEA
LANCEOLATA, the weedy SPHOERANTHUS HIRTUS, GREVILLEA FLORIBUNDA, a low
shrub, occupying the ravines. Besides these we observed a small species
of SIDA in the sandy soil of forests, the DOODIA CAUDATA Br., a verdant
fern, and the SOLANUM FURFURACEUM with lilac flowers, and small red
berries. A shrub loaded with succulent drupes, seated in reddish cups,
appeared to be a new species of VITEX, but its genus was uncertain, there
being no flowers. What is here called GREVILLEA FLORIBUNDA may have been
an allied species, for the leaves were more downy, almost tomentose
above. In addition to this a new species of the common genus DODONOEA,
frequently met with afterwards, was now producing its flowers.[*]
Thermometer, at sunrise, 12 deg.; at noon, 50 deg.; at 4 P. M. 51 deg.; at 9, 22 deg..
[* D. MOLLIS (Lindl. MS.); molliter pubescens, ramulis subteretibus,
foliis obovatis acutis truncatis rotundatis retusis tridentatisque,
capsulis tetragonis trigonisque pubescentibus apteris.]
26TH JUNE. The party moved forward, at length, with the certainty of
finding water for at least three days' journey, and of a hopeful water-
course being before us. Passing by the foot of Mount Owen, I observed the
barometer which gave an elevation of 2083 feet: the summit might be 700
feet higher. My plan of route was, to enter the little river that turned
to the south-west (as I had found it did, on the 20th,) and to travel
along its valley upwards, until I reached the pond near which I had
bivouacked on the 25th. This we accomplished most successfully before
sunset, encamping beside the large pond already mentioned, near which
were two others. The earth by the margin was so soft that neither the
horses nor bullocks could approach the water; they could only be watered
out of buckets; but the water was excellent, and water of any quality, in
abundance too, was to us rather uncommon good fortune, and quite
cheering, even when surrounded by soft mud. Thermometer, at sunrise, 14 deg.;
at noon, 48 deg.; at 4 P. M. 47 deg.; at 9, 37 deg..
27TH JUNE. We had next to trace up a grassy valley which seemed to come
directly from the vicinity of that in which I had found water and
bivouacked on the 24th. It formed an excellent line, and we found it
possible to keep this fine firm level surface, until we had approached to
within two miles of that spot. Leaving a little hill of trap to the left,
and some brigalow scrub on the right, we reached the old ground and
encamped. The small ponds had evaporated, but, in the frosty night, the
cattle were not likely to require water, as they had been watered on the
way, about 3 P. M., at a rocky well in the valley. We had now traced with
our wheels, a good way through a country much broken and shut up by
sandstone gullies; but which contained also many rich valleys, and
extensive hilly tracts of trap rock, on which the grass was very
luxuriant, apparently available for either sheep or cattle. Immediately
to the westward of this camp (marked XXXVIII.) an extensive valley was
bounded by the fine trap range of Hope's Table Land; which range was open
along the summit, and contained springs, in various ravines along its
sides. In these ravines, we first saw the arborescent Zamia, and various
remarkable shrubs; the MYOPORUM CUNNINGHAMII of Swan River, forming a
shrub six feet high, with white fragrant flowers. Thermometer, at
sunrise, 20 deg.; at 9 P. M., 29 deg.. Height above the sea, 2064 feet.
28TH JUNE.--Severe frost whenever the sky was clear, seemed the ordinary
weather of that country, at that season; showing, as the barometer also
indicated, that we were at a great height above the sea. I sent the party
forward, guided by Yuranigh, along my former track, to the ponds in the
newly discovered channel, falling north-west; and I proceeded myself,
accompanied by Mr. Stephenson, to the summit of the fine cone already
mentioned. From this, I beheld a splendid and extensive view of the
mountains further northward. Most of the summits I had previously
intersected, and many others, very remarkable, just appeared over an
intermediate woody range, through which I was at a loss to discover where
our supposed northern river would pass. Far in the north-west, I could
just distinguish the tops of curiously broken hills arising from a much
lower country; and therein I hoped to find, whatever might be the final
course of our river, a passage to the north-west, and water. The most
important feature in that scene seemed to me to be a grey misty tint, as
if it marked a valley descending from the highest eastern mountains,
towards the curiously broken summits in the northwest. Bare crests of
similar hills, appeared to arise throughout the whole extent of that
valley. Under those lofty mountains, at such elevation, in such a clime,
with these romantic hills, that valley must be a paradise if watered
well, as I hope it is. So flowed the "spring" of hope at least, as it was
fed by the scene then before me. The cone we had ascended consisted of
trap rock, much resembling that of Mount Aquarius; but, at its base, and
on its sides, I found in large masses, the very compact felspathic rock
which characterises the valley of the Darling. This has been considered a
very fine-grained sandstone; but it is evidently an altered rock. Here,
in contact with trap, it possessed the same tendency to break into
irregular polygons, some of the faces of which were curved; and I
observed one mass which had been so tossed up, that its lower side lay
uppermost, inclined at an angle of about 60 deg.. That this is a hypogene
rock, sometimes in contact with granite as well as with trap, is evident
at Oxley's Table Land, and other places. I was glad to find it here, as
affording a prospect of meeting with better soil than the loose sand we
had seen so much of. We here found the grey, prickly SOLANUM ELLIPTICUM.
I named this cone Mount P. P. King; and, I have since ascertained, by
that officer's register and calculations, the height of this summit above
the sea, to be 2646 feet; and the height of this camp, 2159 feet.
Thermometer, at sunrise, 25 deg.; at 4 P. M., 55 deg.; at 9, 25 deg.. (XXXIX)
29TH JUNE.--Crossing a small tributary which was full of water (coming
from Hope's Table Land), we continued to travel along the left bank of
the newly found river. Rocky precipices overhanging it, obliged me to
make some detours, and to pass through some scrubs; but still we regained
the banks of the river, although our progress was not considerable. Its
general course was still north-west, to the spot selected for my second
camp on its banks. The channel was now broad; the banks high, rounded,
and grassy; in some places, rocky. Water in the channel was rarely to be
seen, but at the junction of tributaries, where recent temporary showers
seemed to have fallen. By careful observation, I ascertained the
variation of the needle to be 8 deg. 4' E. here. Thermometer, at sunrise,
25 deg.; at 4 P. M., 68 deg.; at 9, 53 deg.. Height above the sea, 1914 feet. (XL.)
30TH JUNE.--The course of the river was now found to turn to the
southward of west; and, even in that direction, rugged cliffs covered
with scrub greatly impeded our progress. I endeavoured to conduct the
carts along the bed of the river, soft and sandy as it was; but we did
not proceed far in it, before rocks, fallen trees, and driftwood, obliged
us to abandon that course as speedily as we could. Then, ascending a
projecting eminence, we plunged into the scrubs; but, even in a southwest
direction, we came upon the river. Pursuing its course along the bank,
southward, I arrived near the base of a fine open forest hill; and,
directing the party to encamp, I hastened to its summit. I there obtained
a view of most of the mountains of the eastern range formerly observed,
and enough of the fixed points, to enable me to determine the position of
this. In the south-west, a line of open forest, and a vast column of
smoke seemed too plainly to mark the further course of our river; but,
towards the north-west, I saw much to reconcile me to this
disappointment. Summits of broken and uncommon aspect, beyond an
intervening woody range, there indicated a much lower and different kind
of country, as if that was, indeed, the basin of a system of northern
waters; the woody intervening range appearing to be the division between
them. As our last explored river again turned southward, it seemed
reasonable to expect, beyond that very continuous range, rivers pursuing
a different course. This range was plainly traceable from the high
mountains more to the eastward, and was continuous westward to three
remarkable conical hills, beyond which, the view did not extend. On the
same range, a fine tableshaped mountain appeared nearly north. This I had
already intersected from other stations, and named Mount Faraday. The
hill on which I stood consisted of trap-rock, and seemed to be almost the
western extremity of Hope's Table Land. A copious spring was afterwards
found by Mr. Stephenson, in a valley to the eastward of this summit. That
ravine was extensive; and in it grew various remarkable trees. The
bottle-tree (Delabechea) grew more gregariously than we had ever seen it,
in the stony banks of the channel of the torrent from the hills. One
thorny tree or shrub (first seen at the base of Mount P. P. King) again
appeared here; it was, generally, in a withered state; had a leaf
somewhat like the human hand, and a pod containing two peas of a bright
scarlet colour, about the shape and size of a French bean. This,
sometimes grew to a tree as much as a foot in diameter; and the natives,
who, like Nature herself, may be said to do nothing in vain, had cut one
down, and carried off the whole of the trunk. The wood was of a leaden
colour. This proved to be a new species of ERYTHRINA, or coral tree.[*]
By our last day's journey, we had lost two miles of northing, and had
thus recrossed the 25th parallel of south latitude. I therefore
determined to cross our friendly little river, and look for another
beyond the range to the northward. Thermometer, at sunrise, 44 deg.; at noon,
68 deg.; at 4 P. M., 65 deg.; at 9, 38 deg.. Height above the sea, 1732 feet. (XLI.)
[* E. VESPERTILIO (Benth. MS.); glaberrima, caule fruticoso aculeato,
foliorum petiolo elongato, foliolis trilobis lobo medio recto acutiusculo
lateralibus multo majoribus falcato-divaricatis obtusissimis.--Although
no flowers were seen, the genus of this shrub is well indicated by the
pod and the general habit. The leaflets are often above four inches broad
and not two inches long, not unlike the form of a bat with its wings
extended.]
1ST JULY.--With that view, I rode towards Mount Faraday, anxious to look
into the valley beyond it. After a two hours' ride, I passed under its
western summit, and still pressed forward, in hopes of seeing at length
into the valleys beyond. I thus entered a very thick scrub, so impervious
that I was obliged to turn westward, until I came upon sandstone gullies
into one of which I descended. Following this downwards, I found it fell
to the westward, and in a hollow part of its rocky bed I came to some
clear water. But this was inaccessible, even to my horse, nor could I
take him further down that wildly broken gully; therefore we backed out,
and ascended as we could. Then riding southward in search of one more
accessible, I at length, descended into a grassy valley, which ran
northwest, and gave promise of something still better. I could not follow
it then without provisions, having none with me, and I therefore hastened
back to the camp, resolved to take with me men and provisions sufficient
to enable me to explore this further. In the scrub I passed through on my
way back, I found various very remarkable shrubs new and strange to me.
One grew on a large stalk, from which leaves radiated without other or
any branches. These leaves, hanging gracefully around the stem, gave to
this shrub the resemblance of the plume of a staff-officer. The outer
side of each leaf was dark and shining, the inner white and woolly.
Rarely these tall stems separated into two. Other branches there were
none. Some very beautiful new acacias also grew there. One, in
particular, with leaves exactly similar to those of the silver-leaved
ironbark, was very remarkable, a broad rough-leaved FICUS, with opposite
leaves not unlike those of the New Holland Upas. The white-flowered lead-
wort (PLUMBAGO ZEYLANICA) and the TRIODIA PUNGENS were abundant among the
grasses. A downy Dodonaea, with triangular leaves, was producing its
small flowers[*], and a scrubby bush with hard narrow leaves and globular
fruit the size of a rifle-ball, proved to be a new CAPPARIS.[**]
Thermometer, at daybreak, 35 deg.; at 9 P.M., 38 deg..